Great info!  So, time to ask a noob question.....

If you get the G2 incandescent light you need the shock isolation bezel, but what about the G2 LED? Is the LED bulb in the G2 LED designed to take the shock of a rifle's recoil or would you still need the shock bezel?  If the answer is "no", then it looks like it kind of makes sence to spend the extra $20 or so on the G2 LED (since the isolation bezels are about $20-$30).

Thanks for the help and thanks again for all the info.

I have the same question and I've been watching this thread for a response .

If anyone happens to know about this please post it here so I don't have to start a new thread
to ask the same question .
On the first page of this thread it states that Luxeon LEDs are shockproof ,but I've seen  other places
where they talk about using an isolation bezel even with the LEDs .

Contradicting information combined with possible type-os make this a little
confusing .

Thanks .

Strobing ––––––- The method of blinking a light on and off so you disorient an unseen or hidden enemy without giving away your exact position. There are MANY wrong ways to do this and only a few right, so do your research before becoming a homing beacon to the bump in the night.

( I need a good link describing tactical use of a light and how to properly strobe)

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=20&t=446092

I think the Fenix TK11 makes a tremendous weapon light. The UI is simple, it runs on 18650 rechargeables if that's your thing, and the tailcap switch is perfect. The price is great, too. The Fenix remote pressure switch isn't great, however - the coiled cable is cumbersome to me. There's no way that I'd use an incandescent flashlight anymore. I personally believe that they're antiquated and not worth their drawbacks.

Hey, Calvin, please answer my email! It's been sitting for a week!





well it's late July and no response.  



Big -1 for Calvin.  



This thread should be untacked and removed.  I already found and bought what I wanted, so far.  

Olight M30 $140 700 lumens using MC-E LED technology.
High Mode 700lumens/1.5hours,
Medium Mode 120lumens/7.5hours,
Low Mode 8lumens/90hours
Strobe 700lumens/1.5hours

or smaller pocket package M20 Warrior Premuim $100 250 lumens using Cree 7090 XR-E R2 LED
low 7lm (150hrs)
medium 90 lm ( 12hrs)
high 250 lm ( 4hrs)
strobe

you can go hand held HID if this isn't enough lol 3500 lumens? but don't strobe, bad for HID bulbs.

Wow, must have not been the same Calvin.  I called him Friday NIGHT (around 8pm) and talked to him for about a half-hour about souping-up my Shurefire 6P.  I already had the upgraded lamp (**61-something) which was bright, but just not blinding.  I wound up ordering a Surefire Dual Switch Tailcap with the plug-in tapeswitch, a Surefire Tip Off Filter and a Malkoff M60 drop-in LED.  I don't know how he did it, but he got it shipped and I got it today (Monday)  ONE DAY, not counting the weekend!  I got the e-mail comfirmation Saturday morning.  Best, fastest service I've ever gotten.

Brightflashlights and Calvin have my business for life.

Oh ya, and it turned my 6P into a MONSTER.  Damn, that thing is bright, and the Surefire parts are worth the money.  Shit's built like a tank.

u can upgrade your surefire on ebay for about $35.    cree R5/Q5/P4 drop in ($13 shipped), crenelated clicky tail cap ($12 shipped), crenelated strike bezel ($10 shipped)

the cree R5 has different modes/brightnesses (low-mid-high-strobe-SOS)

i bought the solarforce clicky tail cap and strike bezel and am VERY impressed.  waterproof, clear glass, durable, no cons i can see.  yea it's chinese, but $12 versus $50 seals the deal for the US made surefire accessories.  i couldn't justify paying more for a tail cap than i did for the flashlight, personally.  YMMV


edit:

the chinese stuff is made from a very sturdy aluminum, but aluminum is a soft metal.  i would say if your life depends on the light, then the surefire stuff is probably worth the extra dough.  for me, i built the flashlight for all around use not war or patrol so it works great for me.  hope this helps qualify my post above.

I have the M20 Warrior and that is going to be my weaponlight!

Food for thought.  I am a police officer and  I put a Olight M30 on my AR15.  This is the same AR15 I use for work and I need to depend on it to save my life or someone else.  Anyway every time the bolt went forward the light would flicker and that is unacceptable.  I went back to the Surefire Scout light I got from Calvin.  It might be more money but when I need it I know it will work and hold up to the pounding I am going to give it.  Thanks.

Great write-up.  Thanks.  Would you consider adding the Surefire M952V to the list please?  Thanks again.

I got my answer bout how many lumens you need for home defense. No more then 225 or you will blind yourself when the beam hits a white wall. Thanks faq

Almost a year and a half later , and I now know that beam profile like flood and hot spot have more to do with that "blinding" effect then lumens.