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Excellent, Very, Very nice.
Thanks for posting! Maybe a sticky? Mods? |
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If you have a friend with a wood lathe you can have him make a burnishing wheel. Make different size groves in a block of wood so it is perfectly round and can be fixed to the arbor on the end of a motor. Kind of like a buffing wheel. Wax on the wood and press the leather into the grooves to burnish the edges. They can really be formed so they are really rounded and comfortable.
My last holster I just used antique dye and made it look rough so it looks like an old Threepersons style holster of antique age. Artificial sinew can be split to make it the right size and can be used to stitch the holster together. Makes for incredibly strong stitching. |
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Awesome post...and I've now figured out why my holsters are so tight. I wet mold BEFORE stitching.
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To notwen: I need to have the gun in-hand in order to make the holster, or a dummy. I mainly just do this as a hobby, but also make one here and there for friends that have guns with no holster options or may need a left hand version or something like that. Since I do it all by hand it takes a while and I would get pretty burnt out trying to make any real money at it.
To dispatch55126: There are definitely more ways than one to skin a cat. The hardest part for me to learn was to get the stitch lines correct. The first few I made were either too loose or too tight. Doing it the way I posted allows me to get a nice tight fit but still be able to draw. I have heard of people that mold first, but either way if it works... I have spent hours on a holster just to make it to the point of molding and find that the holster way way too tight and have to throw it out. I can get it almost perfect the first time now, sometimes making very slight changes to the stitch lines on my pattern for the next one. |
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I'm quite jealous! Your work looks excellent. I've wanted a leather IWB for a loooong time but just don't have the time to put into it.
Been trying to find a MS VM2 but that's proved to be a hassle. Oh well maybe some day. |
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Great work!
I have been thinking of trying my hand at this too, so your tutorial in an excellent resource for me. I have purchased a few of the tools needed and will piece the rest together in the next little while. I have a few questions for you, or any of the other guys that might read this for that matter, if you wouldn't mind answering. What thickness / weight hide did you use? How many stitches per inch did you do? Can you elaborate on the T nut? where did you get them? How did you sew them on? Do you actually run the drill with the needle, or just chuck it up to push it through? Please and thank you of course ![]() |
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Great work! I have been thinking of trying my hand at this too, so your tutorial in an excellent resource for me. I have purchased a few of the tools needed and will piece the rest together in the next little while. I have a few questions for you, or any of the other guys that might read this for that matter, if you wouldn't mind answering. What thickness / weight hide did you use? 5/6 oz for IWB holsters since they need to be as thin as possible, 5/6oz still gives enough thickness that the holster is rigid. i measured a few IWB holster that i purchased and this was the thickness. I also use it for owb holster, but will have more areas of the holster that is 2 layers thick to give a little more heft. I have used 3-4oz leather for iwb holster before for small pocket pistol holsters which will keep the holster really thin, but it will collapse on itself when the gun is removed. it takes 2 hands to reholster those. How many stitches per inch did you do? I use the medium size wheel that comes with the stitch layout tool. it is ~6 stitched per inch. The contact cement is doing 99% of the work holding the holster together. I just like the look of the one i cho Can you elaborate on the T nut? where did you get them? How did you sew them on? I uses 6-32x1/4 t-nut and 6-32x3/8 machine screws. The screw has to be small enough to fit in the male part of the snap. I sandwich the t-nut between the two pieces of leather that make the tabs of the holster. I punch a hole in the front piece of leather so the shaft of the t-nut can stick through. T\i use the t-nuts that have 3 holes in them and drill tree more holes in them for stitching them in. before the tabs are glued together i stitch the t-nut in so it will not rotate when screwing on the belt loops. I have used the t-nut with the barbs before, but have found that the barbs are a little long and the t-nut could free spin between the leather pieces when trying to csrew on the belt loops. Do you actually run the drill with the needle, or just chuck it up to push it through? yes, i put the holster on a piece of wood and "drill" through the leather to make the stitch holes. you can see the piece of mdf with all the holes in it from from drilling through the leather. i use a large leather needle as a "drill bit". An actual drill bit will tear the leather. the needle just opens up the hole, it doesnt remove any material. the hole will shrink back when the leather is wet during the mold process. Please and thank you of course ![]() Just let me know if you have any other questions. |
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Thanks, for the thread. I think I'm jumping in with both feet to try this this weekend.
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Thanks, for the thread. I think I'm jumping in with both feet to try this this weekend. Good luck with it! Let me know if I can help. |
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I'm officially started, there is definatley a bit of a learning curve but for my first time working with leather mine looks alright so far. I have the pieces cut out and the groove done on the right wing and the stitch holes all have been hit with the awl. I have to go back to the store and get the damned t-nuts though, they were the only thing I didn't get.
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Hey where did you get your t-nuts from? I checked home deopot and a crafts store today and they didn't have them.
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That is some nice work there partner ! I also have wonder about making holsters, I will definitely save or sticky this thread. Thanks for taking the time to post this.
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Hey where did you get your t-nuts from? I checked home deopot and a crafts store today and they didn't have them. T-nuts and screws came from lowes. I have also found them at ace hardware. They aren't hanging on peghooks, they are usually in the slide outs. |
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That's awesome! Thanks for the thread. Have you done any OWB holsters?
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That's awesome! Thanks for the thread. Have you done any OWB holsters? yeah, I have done quite a few OWBs. I have recenently started doing the "flat back" style OWB holsters that conform more to the wearer than the normal pancake and are more concealable. I make OWB almost the same way, buy I incorporate the mouth reinforcement into the front tab. Here is one I made for a g19/23. I think the g19 is a little thick for IWB so I made this OWB for fall/winter. http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u661/nismo0542/Holster/DSCN2837.jpg http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u661/nismo0542/Holster/DSCN2838.jpg http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u661/nismo0542/Holster/DSCN2839.jpg Excellent!!! I have been thinking along the lines of this exact style for my G26. I have used Galco FLETCH holsters in the past, but am not a big fan of the thumbbreak / strap. Any chance you could scribble out a pattern for this style and share it? Am I seeing the main body of the holster is one pice folded, then the front tab is sewn on to reinforce it? |
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Looks pretty cool! Leather working is a dying art. ![]() I don't think it's dying... Unless you're speaking of literally dying the leather. ![]() Lots of DIY leatherworkers out there, and lots of relatively new holster makers. There's quite a few DIYers on this very board. When I started making holsters on my own, there wasn't much else about it on the net... And that wasn't all that long ago. At the time, the Holsters & Belts section at Pistolsmith.com was probably the best place to get detailed tips and tricks from many of the top makers - Lou Alessi, Matt Del Fatti, Tony Kannaly, Gary Brommeland, Josh Bulman, Mark Garrity... Around that time, I also ran across this step-by-step. Aside from that, Leatherworker.net was around then, but there's wasn't a whole lot out there specific to the types of holsters we're really wanting here. I eventually put up a tutorial of my own that seemed to be well-received at the time, and although I probably went a little deeper into leatherworking theory, tool options, and other useless jibber-jabber, I like the OP's step-by-step better, especially with the more-involved design and his more methodical way of measuring things out. OP: I noticed you're starting out with some nice looking leather. What exactly are you using? Hermann Oak? Wickett & Craig? Tandy? |
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OP: I noticed you're starting out with some nice looking leather. What exactly are you using? Hermann Oak? Wickett & Craig? Tandy? I get mine from zackwhite leather. double shoulders. veg tanned. |
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Wow that's awesome work. I wish I was your buddy as there's no way I could find that kind of dedication to make one.
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Not bad. Great to see more folk picking up a needle & having a go
...putting it in the oven cracked me up though. Never seen that done before. Good to see you went with the Fiebings Oil Dye, good stuff. A good edge sealer can be made with either PVA glue or Gloy Gum thinned with water. Goes on easy & gets a good shine to it - cheap too N.B. NEVER USE POWER TOOLS FOR LEATHERWORK UNLESS YOU ARE WEARING A FACE MASK - THE DUST IS HIGHLY CARCINOGENIC = A ONE-HIT DEAL; ONE EXPOSURE MAY BE ALL YOU NEED.... Want to make stitch holes? Buy a sewing awl...4 sided-diamond shaped blade. Use it in conjunction with a pricking iron...the rotary markers are not that accurate, unless you have one that costs $200-$300 or so Get the Al Stohlman book on hand-sewing. It's a good book & will get you started. Then you can ignore some of the ideas in it & read up on how to sew with a sewing awl & two needles - English saddlestitch technique. ....holes are made JUST small enough for the needles & thread to pass through. Think of the holes as temporary, the leather will regain its original profile & then close up around the waxed thread. Barbour brand linen thread is good - 3 cord 18 or similar. Wax it first. You may also find that 0.7 or 1mm tiger thread does a better job. It's like small paracord tubing that has been flattened. Happy to send you a few scans from some of the older books I have if you want some tips & more ideas? |
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N.B. NEVER USE POWER TOOLS FOR LEATHERWORK UNLESS YOU ARE WEARING A FACE MASK - THE DUST IS HIGHLY CARCINOGENIC = A ONE-HIT DEAL; ONE EXPOSURE MAY BE ALL YOU NEED.... Want to make stitch holes? Buy a sewing awl...4 sided-diamond shaped blade. Use it in conjunction with a pricking iron...the rotary markers are not that accurate, unless you have one that costs $200-$300 or so I wish I had known that the other day cause I was sandin the shit out of my edges with a dremel. I used a dremel with the tiny dremel drill bits for my holes, worked pretty good. |
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N.B. NEVER USE POWER TOOLS FOR LEATHERWORK UNLESS YOU ARE WEARING A FACE MASK - THE DUST IS HIGHLY CARCINOGENIC = A ONE-HIT DEAL; ONE EXPOSURE MAY BE ALL YOU NEED.... Want to make stitch holes? Buy a sewing awl...4 sided-diamond shaped blade. Use it in conjunction with a pricking iron...the rotary markers are not that accurate, unless you have one that costs $200-$300 or so I wish I had known that the other day cause I was sandin the shit out of my edges with a dremel. I used a dremel with the tiny dremel drill bits for my holes, worked pretty good. i have tried the sewing awl, but didnt reallt like it and it was really slow. i actually use the sewing awl needle in my drill to make the holes. there isn't any dust created doing that, it is just easier to "poke the hole" that way rather that just ramming it though. i sand the edges by hand so no real airborn dust there. i will take heed of the caution though. i normally do use a respirator when making dust, easy enough to put on when drilling holes and sanding just to be safe. |
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Here is the holster I made for my dads PK-380 as it is right now. I probably won't get to finish it till next weekend. It was a damned fun project minus the stitching, that tandy thread sucks a dick. Also I think the leather we used was a little to thin/soft. The girl at the tandy store acted like I was speaking japanese when I said 5 to 6 oz leather. She also said not to polish it with neutral polish but if I remember right it says right on the side of the die bottle she sold me to polish it with neutral polish. http://i47.tinypic.com/vex08j.jpg turning out pretty good! i have use some really thin leather before for small pocket pistols to make iwb holsters. i was going for "as thin as possible" and use 3-4oz leather that you can get from hobby lobby in a small sheet. it would definitely collapse on itself after drawing but is was meant for carrying, no something like idpa were i would need to draw and reholster. i am sure there are as many opinions out there as leather workers on how to finish or how not to finish a holster. the way i posted is kind of a conglomeration of about three different tutorials and many threads i read before diving in myself. It has worked well for me so far and haven't had any complaints from people i made them for. the guy i learned the neutral polish thing from used it because after wetting, molding, drying, dyeing, drying agin, the leather can get "dried out" and could be more brittle. the polish would help condition the leather to take out some of the brittleness. It sounded good so i do it. YMMV. welcome to the addiction. now all your guns will have leather. |
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re - SANDING
Me again!! ![]() OK. I think that in some ways its easy to approach some of the tasks in leatherwork almost as if you were looking at a woodwork project. Most folks ARE used to doing woodwork on some level, so have items to hand to get the job done on that basis - i.e. sandpaper, small power tools, etc. The better way to get the edges to a nice smooth polished finish is by burnishing them. Use a good edge dye; these are normally water based. Fiebings are a good make to opt for. You can choose a colour that is a close match to the leather you are using, or pick one that will give a little detailing contrast (darker than the hide is the best rule here) Apply the edge dye with a wool dauber or small piece of sponge or cotton cloth. Once it has ALMOST dried, you get to the fun part....burnishing. (You CAN apply a second coating if you want the colour to be darker than with just the one application) The moisture from the edge dye soaks into the leather fibres, swelling them. Burnishing them allows them to be compressed under pressure, giving a very slick polished surface. you may ebd up applying so much pressure that the edges take on a flared look...thats easy to remove using side pressure to reshape the leather I use a couple of different sized oak sticks. You can also use a few layers of cotton canvas, folded to make a small pad. If you want pics of the tools or how to do it get back to me. Keep on doing the good work! |
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re - SANDING Me again!! ![]() OK. I think that in some ways its easy to approach some of the tasks in leatherwork almost as if you were looking at a woodwork project. Most folks ARE used to doing woodwork on some level, so have items to hand to get the job done on that basis - i.e. sandpaper, small power tools, etc. The better way to get the edges to a nice smooth polished finish is by burnishing them. Use a good edge dye; these are normally water based. Fiebings are a good make to opt for. You can choose a colour that is a close match to the leather you are using, or pick one that will give a little detailing contrast (darker than the hide is the best rule here) Apply the edge dye with a wool dauber or small piece of sponge or cotton cloth. Once it has ALMOST dried, you get to the fun part....burnishing. (You CAN apply a second coating if you want the colour to be darker than with just the one application) The moisture from the edge dye soaks into the leather fibres, swelling them. Burnishing them allows them to be compressed under pressure, giving a very slick polished surface. you may ebd up applying so much pressure that the edges take on a flared look...thats easy to remove using side pressure to reshape the leather I use a couple of different sized oak sticks. You can also use a few layers of cotton canvas, folded to make a small pad. If you want pics of the tools or how to do it get back to me. Keep on doing the good work! thanks for your input, but i think you are misunderstanding the actual "sanding" that i was doing. i am only running sandpaper along the edge to remove any slight inconsistency left after trimming the edges even with a blade. i don't sand the edges to make them smooth, only to even out any imperfection that is keeping the edge from being a "smooth" line after burnishing. the point is not to create a cloud of dust from removing any large amount of leather. i only run a piece of sandpaper along the edge, 3 or 4 times in one direction to remove any slight high spots. you can see in the pics that i also use a hardwood burnishing tool to "smooth the edge." this thread is just to show how i do it, and what i do to get the result i am after, ymmv. |
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re - SANDING Me again!! ![]() OK. I think that in some ways its easy to approach some of the tasks in leatherwork almost as if you were looking at a woodwork project. Most folks ARE used to doing woodwork on some level, so have items to hand to get the job done on that basis - i.e. sandpaper, small power tools, etc. The better way to get the edges to a nice smooth polished finish is by burnishing them. Use a good edge dye; these are normally water based. Fiebings are a good make to opt for. You can choose a colour that is a close match to the leather you are using, or pick one that will give a little detailing contrast (darker than the hide is the best rule here) Apply the edge dye with a wool dauber or small piece of sponge or cotton cloth. Once it has ALMOST dried, you get to the fun part....burnishing. (You CAN apply a second coating if you want the colour to be darker than with just the one application) The moisture from the edge dye soaks into the leather fibres, swelling them. Burnishing them allows them to be compressed under pressure, giving a very slick polished surface. you may ebd up applying so much pressure that the edges take on a flared look...thats easy to remove using side pressure to reshape the leather I use a couple of different sized oak sticks. You can also use a few layers of cotton canvas, folded to make a small pad. If you want pics of the tools or how to do it get back to me. Keep on doing the good work! thanks for your input, but i think you are misunderstanding the actual "sanding" that i was doing. i am only running sandpaper along the edge to remove any slight inconsistency left after trimming the edges even with a blade. i don't sand the edges to make them smooth, only to even out any imperfection that is keeping the edge from being a "smooth" line after burnishing. the point is not to create a cloud of dust from removing any large amount of leather. i only run a piece of sandpaper along the edge, 3 or 4 times in one direction to remove any slight high spots. you can see in the pics that i also use a hardwood burnishing tool to "smooth the edge." this thread is just to show how i do it, and what i do to get the result i am after, ymmv. That's exactly why I sanded my edges. Once I sanded them so they were even I then burnished them. |
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Awesome work!!!
One question: Have you ever tried kydex between the leather at the belt loop for the OWB holster? That seems to be a weak spot for most holsters and wondered it kydex would stiffen it more and force it to ride closer to the hip. |
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Awesome work!!! One question: Have you ever tried kydex between the leather at the belt loop for the OWB holster? That seems to be a weak spot for most holsters and wondered it kydex would stiffen it more and force it to ride closer to the hip. It's common for some saddlery makers to have a layer of nylon webbing between outer layers of leather for some straps (to prevent stretching & increase breaking strain) , so doing the same thing with Kydex would work at strengthening too |
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No pics yet but I'm working on a tuckable iwb for my XDs using your pattern as a basic outline. The vacuum sealer works much better than a press. I still need to work on stitching and cutting the edges straight but getting better.
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I'm having a problem with the dying. I used a Tandy water-based dye and it left swirl marks. I then tried a Tandy matte professional finish and it seemed to strip some of the dye off. What did I do wrong?
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I'm having a problem with the dying. I used a Tandy water-based dye and it left swirl marks. I then tried a Tandy matte professional finish and it seemed to strip some of the dye off. What did I do wrong? I actually had the same problem kinda. We used the die the OP used but when we pollished the leather it started to come off in some places. Did you get your leather damp before you died it? |
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