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Posted: 7/6/2023 10:30:20 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sandboxmedic: You can buy the jig or I think 4Drentals.com rents them. I've also seen folks use a set of round butt grips as a template. First thing you have to do is make sure it doesn't damage the serial number if it's on the butt. Removing material on the back is easy, then you have to remove some on the front and modify the strain screw slightly. There used to be some videos on youtube showing it being done but I guess their retarded policies got them yanked. You can see the differences in this video from our benevolent overlords though:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee9K960aBC0ETA: Pacific tool sells the jig too (I couldn't find it on Brownell's site anymore). https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/smith-wesson-tools/9906-ptg-round-butt-fitting-guide-sw-k-l-frame.html I just used old round butt grips. You need to take some off the front as well |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 11:11:42 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 03RN: The JM grips are kinda long for aiwb carry. I am planning on getting a pair for my 4" m65 round butt as I'm still searching for the right grips for that gun and the JM grips are awesome to shoot with Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By Gunnie357: Originally Posted By MRW: Originally Posted By 03RN: None of that 5 shot nonsense 2" M10s are very easy to shoot well. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20221115_171145_2_jpg-2874930.JPG 2" m15s are too. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20211003_125752_2_jpg-2874933.JPG One option is a square to round grip like the Mikulek might make the difference without the cost of a conversion. The JM grips are kinda long for aiwb carry. I am planning on getting a pair for my 4" m65 round butt as I'm still searching for the right grips for that gun and the JM grips are awesome to shoot with I didn’t even think of that good point |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 12:26:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 03RN]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunnie357: I didn’t even think of that good point Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunnie357: Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By Gunnie357: Originally Posted By MRW: Originally Posted By 03RN: None of that 5 shot nonsense 2" M10s are very easy to shoot well. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20221115_171145_2_jpg-2874930.JPG 2" m15s are too. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20211003_125752_2_jpg-2874933.JPG One option is a square to round grip like the Mikulek might make the difference without the cost of a conversion. The JM grips are kinda long for aiwb carry. I am planning on getting a pair for my 4" m65 round butt as I'm still searching for the right grips for that gun and the JM grips are awesome to shoot with I didn’t even think of that good point This is an N frame but I think the length is the same It's definitely doable but it prints a little  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 1:24:13 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sandboxmedic: You can buy the jig or I think 4Drentals.com rents them. I've also seen folks use a set of round butt grips as a template. First thing you have to do is make sure it doesn't damage the serial number if it's on the butt. Removing material on the back is easy, then you have to remove some on the front and modify the strain screw slightly. There used to be some videos on youtube showing it being done but I guess their retarded policies got them yanked. You can see the differences in this video from our benevolent overlords though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee9K960aBC0ETA: Pacific tool sells the jig too (I couldn't find it on Brownell's site anymore). https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/smith-wesson-tools/9906-ptg-round-butt-fitting-guide-sw-k-l-frame.html Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sandboxmedic: Originally Posted By gunnut284: Originally Posted By MRW: I'm considering a 2" K-frame as a carry piece. Is a round butt all that much superior than square for appendix carry? Square butt K-snubs appear to be more common and less expensive. Perhaps I can knock down the sharp edge on the back corner of the grips. I recall seeing a jig years ago, from Brownells I think, for converting/cutting down a square frame grip to a round frame grip profile. No idea if it’s still available, what all was involved or if there is any issues with converting one. I’ve been tempted to but a 4” 64/65 to cut to 3” and RB, or at least bobtail a bit. If I could snag a cheap one I’d be inclined to bubba it. You can buy the jig or I think 4Drentals.com rents them. I've also seen folks use a set of round butt grips as a template. First thing you have to do is make sure it doesn't damage the serial number if it's on the butt. Removing material on the back is easy, then you have to remove some on the front and modify the strain screw slightly. There used to be some videos on youtube showing it being done but I guess their retarded policies got them yanked. You can see the differences in this video from our benevolent overlords though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee9K960aBC0ETA: Pacific tool sells the jig too (I couldn't find it on Brownell's site anymore). https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/smith-wesson-tools/9906-ptg-round-butt-fitting-guide-sw-k-l-frame.html I believe these is an ATF rule that permits a licensed gunsmith to relocate a serial number. |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 1:27:18 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: I believe these is an ATF rule that permits a licensed gunsmith to relocate a serial number. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Originally Posted By gunnut284: Originally Posted By MRW: I'm considering a 2" K-frame as a carry piece. Is a round butt all that much superior than square for appendix carry? Square butt K-snubs appear to be more common and less expensive. Perhaps I can knock down the sharp edge on the back corner of the grips. I recall seeing a jig years ago, from Brownells I think, for converting/cutting down a square frame grip to a round frame grip profile. No idea if it’s still available, what all was involved or if there is any issues with converting one. I’ve been tempted to but a 4” 64/65 to cut to 3” and RB, or at least bobtail a bit. If I could snag a cheap one I’d be inclined to bubba it. You can buy the jig or I think 4Drentals.com rents them. I've also seen folks use a set of round butt grips as a template. First thing you have to do is make sure it doesn't damage the serial number if it's on the butt. Removing material on the back is easy, then you have to remove some on the front and modify the strain screw slightly. There used to be some videos on youtube showing it being done but I guess their retarded policies got them yanked. You can see the differences in this video from our benevolent overlords though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee9K960aBC0ETA: Pacific tool sells the jig too (I couldn't find it on Brownell's site anymore). https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/smith-wesson-tools/9906-ptg-round-butt-fitting-guide-sw-k-l-frame.html I believe these is an ATF rule that permits a licensed gunsmith to relocate a serial number. I think they used to be able to, or at least the factory could, but I'd heard that was changed so that it couldn't be moved at all. I really don't know at this point and with the atf's screwed up policies/rules/whatever they've made up today, I'd double check before doing it. Any FFL/gunsmiths in this thread that might know?  
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Posted: 7/6/2023 2:34:57 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: I'm considering a 2" K-frame as a carry piece. Is a round butt all that much superior than square for appendix carry? Square butt K-snubs appear to be more common and less expensive. Perhaps I can knock down the sharp edge on the back corner of the grips. I'll quote myself. I was theorizing about simply sanding down the square back corner of the magna grip panels, not reprofiling the frame to a round butt. Or is that not enough to keep it from printing and digging into my hopefully shrinking belly? |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 2:48:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: I'll quote myself. I was theorizing about simply sanding down the square back corner of the magna grip panels, not reprofiling the frame to a round butt. Or is that not enough to keep it from printing and digging into my hopefully shrinking belly? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: Originally Posted By MRW: I'm considering a 2" K-frame as a carry piece. Is a round butt all that much superior than square for appendix carry? Square butt K-snubs appear to be more common and less expensive. Perhaps I can knock down the sharp edge on the back corner of the grips. I'll quote myself. I was theorizing about simply sanding down the square back corner of the magna grip panels, not reprofiling the frame to a round butt. Or is that not enough to keep it from printing and digging into my hopefully shrinking belly? Its really not a huge deal. It's more that if anything is going to print it's that bottom heal. The shape of vz square butt grips is helpful too. If I were you I'd just grab a 2" m10 with a square butt. Get vz square butt grips and see if that works. If not, grab an angle grinder until it does. |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 3:06:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Centerfire Systems always has a metric shit-ton of used J and K-frame S&W's. I suspect they're mostly imports because so many of them look like hammered crap. But they run them on sale fairly often and a fella could buy a rusty one, bead blast it, Parkerize it, and have a good utility carry revolver.
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Posted: 7/6/2023 6:49:09 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ggibbs: Centerfire Systems always has a metric shit-ton of used J and K-frame S&W's. I suspect they're mostly imports because so many of them look like hammered crap. But they run them on sale fairly often and a fella could buy a rusty one, bead blast it, Parkerize it, and have a good utility carry revolver.  all those guns have leprosy |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 10:12:18 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: all those guns have leprosyQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: Originally Posted By ggibbs: Centerfire Systems always has a metric shit-ton of used J and K-frame S&W's. I suspect they're mostly imports because so many of them look like hammered crap. But they run them on sale fairly often and a fella could buy a rusty one, bead blast it, Parkerize it, and have a good utility carry revolver. all those guns have leprosyI'm always hearing about those used $300 S&W .38 revolvers, now I finally know what they look like! |
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Posted: 7/6/2023 10:52:40 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: I'm always hearing about those used $300 S&W .38 revolvers, now I finally know what they look like! Oh they're out there, some even under $300, but you have to turn off ESPN and look for them. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/983057566 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/992260445 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/984078195 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/994274521 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990886214 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/988723473 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/991937396 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990171764 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/986692463 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990883914 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/986524768 |
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Posted: 7/7/2023 12:54:35 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Uh huh. Your 1st link, $300 was the starting bid, no one bid on it & it never met the reserve price. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By ggibbs: Originally Posted By backbencher: I'm always hearing about those used $300 S&W .38 revolvers, now I finally know what they look like! Oh they're out there, some even under $300, but you have to turn off ESPN and look for them. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/983057566 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/992260445 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/984078195 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/994274521 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990886214 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/988723473 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/991937396 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990171764 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/986692463 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990883914 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/986524768 Uh huh. Your 1st link, $300 was the starting bid, no one bid on it & it never met the reserve price. It said no reserve. |
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Posted: 7/7/2023 1:05:12 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 03RN: It said no reserve. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By ggibbs: Originally Posted By backbencher: I'm always hearing about those used $300 S&W .38 revolvers, now I finally know what they look like! Oh they're out there, some even under $300, but you have to turn off ESPN and look for them. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/983057566 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/992260445 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/984078195 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/994274521 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990886214 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/988723473 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/991937396 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990171764 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/986692463 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/990883914 https://www.gunbroker.com/item/986524768 Uh huh. Your 1st link, $300 was the starting bid, no one bid on it & it never met the reserve price. It said no reserve. I stand corrected. $300 was the starting bid & no one ever bid on it. $320 shipped before transfer. |
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Posted: 8/27/2023 6:32:09 PM EDT
[#15]
So I bought a Taurus. Not photographed on concrete
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Posted: 8/27/2023 6:50:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: backbencher]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: So I bought a Taurus. Not photographed on concrete https://i.imgur.com/J4LnoF6.jpg?1 Yay! |
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Posted: 8/27/2023 6:57:54 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Yay! 
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Posted: 8/27/2023 7:23:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: He's happy I bought a Taurus, isn't that wonderful! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: Originally Posted By backbencher: Yay! Smartass. I clarified. |
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Posted: 8/27/2023 7:54:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MRW]
[#19]
I picked it up used, unfired, for cheap. I've been looking at them for a while since they are 3" and 6 shot. I'll do a side by side with my 3" SP101
It's quite svelte, I like it. |
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Posted: 8/28/2023 9:43:00 PM EDT
[#20]
These 38 spl are very positive and happy rounds - 147gr RMR "smiley" bullets, over 4 gr of Titegroup
 Attached File |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2023 12:38:18 PM EDT
[#21]
Thats Great! Where did You get those bullets?
Would they ship to NY? 
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Posted: 9/6/2023 12:39:44 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HBARCharlie: Thats Great! Where did You get those bullets? Would they ship to NY? https://www.rmrbullets.com/shop/bullets/pistol/357-38/357-147-gr-rmr-fmj-smiley/ |
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Posted: 9/6/2023 1:44:11 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Samal: https://www.rmrbullets.com/shop/bullets/pistol/357-38/357-147-gr-rmr-fmj-smiley/ https://www.rmrbullets.com/shop/bullets/pistol/357-38/357-147-gr-rmr-fmj-smiley/ |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2023 3:31:14 PM EDT
[#24]
thats great, Thanks guys for the link
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Posted: 11/11/2023 10:37:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MRW]
[#25]
new grips. maybe I'm settled on these.
 edited photo I shot this tonight side by side with Hogue bantams. Recoil was about the same, but I could not hit very will with no pinky hold. the Taurus 856 shot like a dream. it's now my desk drawer gun. |
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Posted: 12/15/2023 10:26:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MRW]
[#26]
This is where I am now. I think I'll "bobtail" it like a 1911
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Posted: 12/15/2023 11:15:58 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: This is where I am now. I think I'll "bobtail" it like a 1911 https://i.imgur.com/mZQQFnY.jpg?1 So like a round butt conversion? I’ve always thought the square butt with some short grips like these looked great rather than a round butt. https://www.eaglegrips.com/secret-service-series/286-sw-kl-frame-square-butt-genuine-rosewood-checkered-secret-service-grips.html |
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Posted: 12/15/2023 11:50:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Just have to be careful of the serial number if it's on the butt, some of them are long enough/placed far enough back that you can't do a full rounding.
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Posted: 12/16/2023 12:47:54 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sandboxmedic: Just have to be careful of the serial number if it's on the butt, some of them are long enough/placed far enough back that you can't do a full rounding. Thought a gunsmith can move the SN for you? |
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Posted: 12/16/2023 10:24:39 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Thought a gunsmith can move the SN for you? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Just have to be careful of the serial number if it's on the butt, some of them are long enough/placed far enough back that you can't do a full rounding. Thought a gunsmith can move the SN for you? I'm not an FFL holder of any sort and I only worked in a gun store for a short spell in the late 80s so I may be way off- I think they could, then it was change to only the manufacturer could then it was changed to the manufacturer could reuse a serial number as long as they documented the destruction of the original frame. I'd wanted to round one of mine and add an original lanyard loop but it would obviously have destroyed the serial number and I was told it couldn't be done anymore. Again, you'd have to ask someone who actually holds a license- maybe someone in the gunsmithing forum could provide an actual legal answer. My own personal opinion is that it's a retarded rule/law; other than my vehicle which must be registered (that's another story), nothing else I own is required to be serial numbered. I should be able to remove the number if I want just as I can pull the sticker off my refrigerator, move it, modify it, etc. Few of the things I own have any real value anyways. Sure, it's nice if your item get returned if stolen, but I have a very hard time believing my Italian Beretta has never shown up in over twenty years unless some thief tossed it in a river or something. 
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Posted: 12/27/2023 4:44:23 PM EDT
[#31]
642 currently
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Posted: 12/28/2023 1:11:46 AM EDT
[#32]
I want wood on my 340 but I like my laser too much. Plus the palm padding is nice. I’m thinking about sending my cylinder out to have it honed and chamfered. Empty cases get stuck a lot and I find myself having to really push down on the ejector rod. I’m concerned about bending the ejector rod.
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Posted: 12/28/2023 1:43:07 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MK318: I want wood on my 340 but I like my laser too much. Plus the palm padding is nice. I’m thinking about sending my cylinder out to have it honed and chamfered. Empty cases get stuck a lot and I find myself having to really push down on the ejector rod. I’m concerned about bending the ejector rod. I have that concern every time I run steel case in my 101. |
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Posted: 12/28/2023 4:28:22 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: I have that concern every time I run steel case in my 101. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By MK318: I want wood on my 340 but I like my laser too much. Plus the palm padding is nice. I’m thinking about sending my cylinder out to have it honed and chamfered. Empty cases get stuck a lot and I find myself having to really push down on the ejector rod. I’m concerned about bending the ejector rod. I have that concern every time I run steel case in my 101. This wasn’t steel. This was nickel plated brass cased Barnes TAC-XPD 125gr .357 but it has always had issues with Norma 158gr JHP which is brass cased. I think the cylinders are a little rough. Honing and chamfering should help. What I’m considering doing is sending the cylinder off to TK customs and have it cut for moonclips which includes the chamfering and having the honing done while it’s there. Turn around time is about 2 weeks. $285 doesn’t seem to bad of a price either. |
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Posted: 12/28/2023 10:00:00 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MK318: This wasn’t steel. This was nickel plated brass cased Barnes TAC-XPD 125gr .357 but it has always had issues with Norma 158gr JHP which is brass cased. I think the cylinders are a little rough. Honing and chamfering should help. What I’m considering doing is sending the cylinder off to TK customs and have it cut for moonclips which includes the chamfering and having the honing done while it’s there. Turn around time is about 2 weeks. $285 doesn’t seem to bad of a price either. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MK318: Originally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By MK318: I want wood on my 340 but I like my laser too much. Plus the palm padding is nice. I’m thinking about sending my cylinder out to have it honed and chamfered. Empty cases get stuck a lot and I find myself having to really push down on the ejector rod. I’m concerned about bending the ejector rod. I have that concern every time I run steel case in my 101. This wasn’t steel. This was nickel plated brass cased Barnes TAC-XPD 125gr .357 but it has always had issues with Norma 158gr JHP which is brass cased. I think the cylinders are a little rough. Honing and chamfering should help. What I’m considering doing is sending the cylinder off to TK customs and have it cut for moonclips which includes the chamfering and having the honing done while it’s there. Turn around time is about 2 weeks. $285 doesn’t seem to bad of a price either. The honing and chamfering probably won't change that. The honing will be for the throats and the chamfering will just be for the charge holes. Neither one will effect the chamber where the brass expands. Do you shoot .38 special? You might just need to really clean the carbon rings out. |
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Posted: 1/6/2024 12:29:27 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MK318: This wasn’t steel. This was nickel plated brass cased Barnes TAC-XPD 125gr .357 but it has always had issues with Norma 158gr JHP which is brass cased. I think the cylinders are a little rough. Honing and chamfering should help. What I’m considering doing is sending the cylinder off to TK customs and have it cut for moonclips which includes the chamfering and having the honing done while it’s there. Turn around time is about 2 weeks. $285 doesn’t seem to bad of a price either. A 340 has a titanium cylinder, they tend to expand/flex more than steel. Honing/chamfering may not help. Getting a stainless cylinder may, but it adds weight. There are super hot 38 +p rounds that are sold by underwood and buffalo bore, which are basically 357 magnum. The fired brass stick very tight in titanium cylinders, but not as much in stainless. If you shoot all 5 rounds, it may require a hammer tapping on ejector rod to get the brass out in the titanium cylinder, vs a push/smack with a hand in stainless. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2024 12:58:57 AM EDT
[#37]
158 grain slugs
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Posted: 2/13/2024 11:06:40 PM EDT
[#38]
aaaand a lightweight 3" added
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Posted: 2/14/2024 12:24:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: MK318]
[#39]
Quote HistoryI like that Taurus is using a pinned front sight now. Having a tritium front sight seems like a minor upgrade but I’ve found it much easier to pick up the front sight rather than just using the standard blade. S&W really needs to adopt this across their line. While useable, it’s 2024 there is no excuse for gutter sights on a revolver when better sight options exist. I’d really like to see three dot sights like those that come on the 640 Pro be the standard sights. I use an XS standard dot tritium sight with a neon green outline on my 340PD and it is easy to pick up.  Attached FileAnyways, nice shooter. |
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Posted: 2/14/2024 12:33:05 AM EDT
[#40]
Originally Posted By 03RN: The honing and chamfering probably won't change that. The honing will be for the throats and the chamfering will just be for the charge holes. Neither one will effect the chamber where the brass expands. Do you shoot .38 special? You might just need to really clean the carbon rings out. Originally Posted By tgmr05: A 340 has a titanium cylinder, they tend to expand/flex more than steel. Honing/chamfering may not help. Getting a stainless cylinder may, but it adds weight. There are super hot 38 +p rounds that are sold by underwood and buffalo bore, which are basically 357 magnum. The fired brass stick very tight in titanium cylinders, but not as much in stainless. If you shoot all 5 rounds, it may require a hammer tapping on ejector rod to get the brass out in the titanium cylinder, vs a push/smack with a hand in stainless. After researching it I’ve decided to skip both on my 340PD. From what I’ve read that once you remove that finish on the Ti cylinder it can start to erode pretty quickly from firing. There are some pictures out there that shows some significant erosion in just a hundred rounds. I may end up buying a steel cylinder and swapping it out. It will add some weight but if I go that route I can I do the honing and chamfering along with having it cut for moon clips without having to worry about erosion. It would basically be a standard M&P 340. Then again I hardly carry my 340PD anymore and when I do it is almost always as a back up. So the shells sticking issue isn’t really that big of a deal. Just annoying. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/15/2024 9:59:14 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryHow do you like it so far? That revolver is on my short list for a new toy |
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Posted: 2/15/2024 10:28:16 PM EDT
[#42]
the trigger was gritty and chonk-y. I took the plate off and oiled all the wear points and then dryfired it 500 times, then oiled it again. It's much better.
I'll try to shoot it for the first time this weekend. No other lightweight 3" 38 besides the LCRx at double the cost and one less round. |
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Posted: 2/15/2024 11:18:10 PM EDT
[#43]
Opposite of yer 3":
 T.U.S.H. - Taurus Ultra Snubby Handgun #guns #shorts #taurus #revolver |
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Posted: 2/17/2024 2:13:10 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: the trigger was gritty and chonk-y. I took the plate off and oiled all the wear points and then dryfired it 500 times, then oiled it again. It's much better. I'll try to shoot it for the first time this weekend. No other lightweight 3" 38 besides the LCRx at double the cost and one less round. I don’t have any first hand experience with the Taurus revolvers but I’ve always heard the first thing you need to do is remove the side plate and oil the hell out of it and leave it on its side overnight to get all the metal shavings from production out of it. |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 2/17/2024 7:32:19 AM EDT
[#45]
I had a 3" Defender, out of the box the trigger was off my digital gauge with a 12lb max, I tried a Galloway kit which brought the pull weight to a nice 10-10.5lb but started having light strikes after a couple hundred rd's then I tried Wolf springs and had the same outcome, I ended up with the Galloway rebound spring installed, 500-600 rds, through it, a lot of dry fires, a little polishing / lube resulted in a reliable smooth 11lb trigger.
Decent gun but, sent it down the road. |
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Posted: 2/17/2024 11:21:02 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MK318: I don't have any first hand experience with the Taurus revolvers but I've always heard the first thing you need to do is remove the side plate and oil the hell out of it and leave it on its side overnight to get all the metal shavings from production out of it. |
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Posted: 2/17/2024 11:23:17 AM EDT
[#47]
what if I take the side plate off and hose the internals down with WD-40 and let it drip-dry, then lightly re-oil. kinda like hitting parts with brake cleaner?
some say not to use WD-40 with guns but I can never remember why |
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Posted: 2/17/2024 1:24:20 PM EDT
[#48]
WD 40 turns very sticky as it dries. It is not a lubricant, it's a water displacer hence it's name. It was originally designed for the Air Force to protect against corrosion in the outer skin of ballistic missiles in under ground silos.
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Posted: 2/17/2024 2:20:40 PM EDT
[#49]
maybe I should just use brake cleaner
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Posted: 2/19/2024 11:57:09 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRW: maybe I should just use brake cleaner Take the grips off 1st. |
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