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@HenryKnoxFineBooks
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The lower is a modern Cerro forging that has been re-profiled (which was almost the only thing done well), but forgot to remove the Cerro code as that was not on M16A1 forgings on the lowers. The text and logos are wrong for an M16A1. Some text is OK for a late 1970s / 1980s commercial sale M16A1, but is poorly done, as is the case with etching, the removed metal broadens as it deepens, creating a "fuzzy" look to the text.
The anodizing at home is Type II, which won't give the hardness of Type III. Thanks to some experiments done my a site member, the best gray yield may not involve dye at all, but the effect of the nickle acetate at the thickness of 2 mil yields a gray surface which gets darker as the layer increases. This is why when my anodizer went for my first batch of gray, he said he thought it was too light in color, and then went too dark / purple as the sealant step was done.
When doing clones, at least make people have to take a serious look to determine it is not the real thing:
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