Springfield ROC slide will not lock back on empty mag and cannot lock it back manually. Everything else functions properly, shoots and cycles fine. What's going on?

Sounds like a problem with the slide lock.
The mag follower lifts it up to lock the slide.

Put an empty mag in and fully retract the slide.

Look down in the ejection ports and watch what is happening.

If you can't lock it back manually, doubt the mag follower will lift the lock. Can you move the lock to break the gun down?

Yes.

You may have a sheared-off lug on the top of the slide stop or a damaged slide notch.  Alternatively, the slide stop may not be installed properly (i.e., not fully inserted flush the the frame).

First field strip and clean.  As you take it apart look closely at the parts.  If you don't know what they should look like get a photo of a field stripped firearm of the same type.  Often something as small as a burr will cause things to go wrong.

You'd be amazed how many times cleaning a firearm, even a supposedly clean one, will fix things.

Do you have a recoil spring buffer in it?

Yes.

The shock buffer will shorten the slide travel, which can become an issue as the 1911 slides get shorter.  Does it lock back when the buffer is removed?

Probably the buffer.

Damn! I got it, pilot error. slide stop was not completely flush, thanks ken_mays. I can't believe it still shot in this condition. Is there a trick to getting the ss in all the way? I must have tried a dozen times before it "magically" went all the way in. ( I know that's what she said.)

Springfields tend to have a long plunger and it can be a struggle to nudge it in enough to get the SS going.  Some folks file a groove into the SS that cams the plunger out of the way and guides it so it doesn't get wedged in the slot on the SS.

Attached File


Another trick is to use a small jeweler screwdriver or similar tool inserted through the frame window from the inside to hold the plunger back while you insert the SS.

ETA  Wow! ken_mays you beat me to it!

OP, I believe you had this same issue a month ago or so. You need to push in the plunger that bears against the slide stop with a small/flat tool, while pressing the slide stop into the frame. Stock Springfields usually require this.

I have done this mod on all of my 1911s that needed it. Simple needle file work right where the plunger meets the slide stop. Be careful NOT to affect the area below the new notch(where the magazine follower engages to actuate it up to slide lock). Any good 1911 gunsmith can do this. The slide stop snaps right in after the mod.

Do you guys think an aftermarket slide stop might solve this? Something like 10-8 0r Wilson.

I would just get yours notched.

Another thing I've done sometimes is to remove the plunger assembly and shorten the front plunger (the stepped one that bears against the slide stop.)

Generally if you file the round end flat and then chuck it in a drill and use a file to round it again, it should be very close to the proper length.

This eliminates the need to file the slide stop (and on stainless SAs this is good because the slide stop is not stainless but chrome plated) and if you mess up the plunger, it's a $1.00 part.

It is definitely quick and easy to chuck the plunger up in your drill and spin it until it's a little shorter. You'll need to get it out by removing the thumb safety so look up that procedure if you don't know how. It'll be good for you to see how these parts work together, too. The whole gun comes apart with little effort once you start detail stripping it. It really makes you appreciate the mechanical mind of John Browning. All of the little "systems" that work cohesively as one machine designed well over a hundred years ago. Mind blowing.


This is a fairly new stainless SA 1911A1 Mil-Spec I have and it came with a stainless slide stop. It is a cast part though. I have run this gun pretty hard and the slide stop doesn't look worn or stressed in the least. The notch does not affect any other operation in the gun other than making it easy to snap in the frame during reassembly. It needs to be in exactly the right spot to be effective. You have to be sure not to remove any material the magazine follower contacts as well.
My notched slide stop. I would practice cutting small grooves with a needle file in something like a hard bolt head before going for it yourself. A good gunsmith should be able to do this with no trouble.

Slide locks back on manual retartaction but fails to lock back on ammo.  Its a specific mag and the leg of the follower goes up over the slide stop for some reason.

The OP realized he did not have the slide stop all of the way in so that problem is solved. He is now addressing how to efficiently get his slide stop inserted in the frame for reassembly.