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Posted: 11/13/2004 8:19:54 PM EDT
[#1]
I don't have any of the handguard wrenches but I've got a bunch of strap wrenches along with my DPMS everythingimagianable tool...
Should work right? |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 5:31:08 AM EDT
[#2]
You will need the wrench from Yhm. For the barrell nut.In fact I didnt buy all the tools to do it and had a hard time due to the gun trying to spin. The armoures wrench would have been nice..The action block is a must if youre doing this by youreself...Strap wrenches may work well on the tube part and locking ring.But im not sure what tool kit you have.
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Posted: 11/14/2004 6:12:28 AM EDT
[#3]
Use your DPMS armourers tool to femove flash hider and barrel nut. If you plan on working on ar's at all buy an action block. Its to easy to squish a receiver outta spec. break or mar stuff etc without one. Tman-if your gunsmith works on AR's with a towel and 2x4's you need a different gunsmith, and the YHM tool isn't built to remove barrel nuts. It may work for one or two, but an armourer's wrench (which the guy already has) is better.
Snaps- do yourself a favor, for how to do this properly read the thread on how to do this from the first page on, not just these last few posts. As falarak says "pick any two of the three-you can do it correctly, inexpensively or quickly" |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 9:48:31 AM EDT
[#4]
I actually was planning on pulling it up, hitting the Print button adn taking it with me....
My memory isn't what you'd call great. I've got the action block and the barrel vise... Just when I was looking at teh YHM tool on the web it looked like my DPMS tool could do the same job. |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 11:19:29 AM EDT
[#5]
There are two things the YHM tool does better than an Armorers tool: 1. The YHM tool has three pins for positive lockup into the YHM aluminum barrel nut... most Armorers wrenches only have two pins for this. Having seen a YHM barrel nut break once from overtorquing with a standard wrench.... its worth it. 2. They YHM tool has a special end for the locking ring. It is very specific and the only other way to get it tight enough would be a punch, which would mar the surface even more than the YHM tool does. This is another reason I feel blue locktite is necessary on the locking ring for the YHM FFtubes. |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 11:32:09 AM EDT
[#6]
/sigh/ i just checked, I've only got the two pins..
Of course, after looking at the picture thread I want one of those ACE stocks so I might as well find a supplier that sells both and get 'em ordered. |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 11:39:44 AM EDT
[#7]
EDIT: eh, it's stupidto worry about it. Time to get with paul at bravo company again and get the YHM tool ordered. EDIT 2: and it's ordered. |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 12:33:10 PM EDT
[#8]
See the updates on page 1 - I included new instructions on the Troy MRF-C tubes.
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Posted: 11/14/2004 6:07:04 PM EDT
[#9]
Hey FALARAK....I would like to ask ya a question.My question is this.When tightening up the barrel nut that came with the Yhm kit .I snugged it up..Like they said in the instructions that came with it. Just using the wrench I was a hair off the next alignment hole. Then had to tap it with a hammer im not sure I beat it as hard as I did when removing the original delta ring.How tight does it have to be???
I know I made it tight .But prob not as tight as the delta ring was..And also the gas tube will stop the nut from spining.Just wondering........Thanks |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 6:19:27 PM EDT
[#10]
When in doubt, always follow the TM. ar15.com/content/manuals/TM9-1005-319-23.pdf Torque three times to 30ft. lbs. Then torque to 30 ft. lbs, and continue applying toqure until next gas tube hole lines up. If you dont have an idea what 30 ft. lbs feels like, then you should use a torque wrench. |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 6:27:59 PM EDT
[#11]
30 foot pounds isn't alot of torgue .In fact people can pretty much do it by hand.Thank you.. I quess I will have to range test it.And see if there is any movement.Im just skeptical.I think I should have used blue lock tight on the barrel nut also..
As a auto repair tech 30 foot pounds ain't alot...In fact you can acheive this with a 3/8 rachet easily.. The tool is bigger then any 3/8 ratchet.Just skeptical and want to do it right.Ialways double check my work at work same here...Im perticuliar and it has to be percise. lol...Thank you |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 7:13:39 PM EDT
[#12]
Think again. You do NOT use loctite on the barrel nut. You use moly grease on the threads of the upper receiver, per the TM. You can use locktite on the OUTER threads of the YHM barrel nut, with the locking ring. |
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Posted: 11/14/2004 7:19:39 PM EDT
[#13]
If 30 foot pounds is all it takes im sure I got it right thanks.
 I wailed on the nut being im a big guy and over torgue everything.Then hit it with a hammer..But yhm should have put a square in the tool to adapt a 3/8 torgue wrench or a 1/2 one.I put blue lock tight on the tube end also. Just a preference.
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Posted: 11/16/2004 5:56:58 PM EDT
[#14]
I know somebody that ran into the very same problem. BTW I just want to say thanks to FALARAK for helping me assemble my AR and giving me an excellent block of instructions for future builds. Dave |
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Posted: 11/18/2004 6:25:53 PM EDT
[#15]
n/m
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Posted: 11/19/2004 9:24:52 PM EDT
[#16]
got it done today... Alot easier than I thought. But the torque wrench I had didn't have enough torque, had to borrow another one.. Ah well.
thanks ofr the thread 
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Posted: 11/23/2004 3:19:16 PM EDT
[#17]
Tagged. And I have a question about the Troy FF. The piece that you normally attach removable handguards to (behind the front sight tower) is no longer needed, correct? In theory you could simply put a low profile gas block on there and mount the front iron sights on the handguards, right? I originally was considering the Daniel Defense FF'ers but now I'm reconsidering the Troy because I like how it runs pretty much flush with the upper receiver rail. Thanks |
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Posted: 11/23/2004 5:52:52 PM EDT
[#18]
Correct. Thats the front handguard cap. It is not needed, and can be left in place, or removed, if you remove the FSB.
Yes you absolutely could.
That is a benefit of the Troy, if you think you would need that as a mounting option, for sure. |
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Posted: 11/23/2004 7:39:49 PM EDT
[#19]
UPDATE - Added LARUE free float install to page 1. DAMN nice float tube. It's my favorite right now.
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Posted: 11/23/2004 7:51:50 PM EDT
[#20]
tag
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Posted: 11/24/2004 5:34:57 AM EDT
[#21]
Awesome... thanks for the info. This thread is a great one by the way. I'd love to see more step-by-steps with pictures on different projects. |
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Posted: 11/24/2004 6:14:21 AM EDT
[#22]
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Posted: 11/24/2004 7:58:12 AM EDT
[#23]
I never get all the hype about bayo lugson AR15's. Unless you have a registered SBR, you need a 16" barrel, and if you haven't tried (or have some bayo with a way longer handle) an M7 bayo won't fit right anyway! I kind of like my bayo to be supported by the FH, not just rattling loose on the barrel behind it! My AR180 wears the M7, my G3TME has a butcher knife, and when I really wanna "reach out and poke someone" I grab the L1A1, with its original barrel and the 5 slot FH its a freaking spear (53+ inches!!!) Just my opinion, I could be wrong. |
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Posted: 11/24/2004 6:10:42 PM EDT
[#24]
IT WORKS JUST AS ACCURATE AS BEFORE NO LOOSENESS.This is just a follow up..Job done well..Thanks so much for this forum............... |
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Posted: 11/27/2004 3:16:00 AM EDT
[#25]
When you tighten the lock ring, that is angainst the free float tube and not the upper. Correct? I'm new at this, and after reading your instructions, I'm planning on putting a free float on my Bushmaster M4. Your instructions and examples are excellent.
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Posted: 11/27/2004 4:22:09 AM EDT
[#26]
Yes, that is correct. The locking ring tightens against the float tube. |
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Posted: 11/30/2004 11:16:33 AM EDT
[#27]
If replacing a standard FSB with a PRI block or flip-up front, what prevents the PRI from twisting on the barrel if whacked? In the pics it doesn't look the PRI uses the existing pin holes in the barrel.
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Posted: 11/30/2004 11:23:16 AM EDT
[#28]
You tightent it down VERY hard! If it took a good enough whack you could move it.... C4 |
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Posted: 11/30/2004 11:48:04 AM EDT
[#29]
Might be worth mentioning... the GG&G flip up front uses pins, and requires you send the upper off for them to install it. It is rock freaking solid.
That being said, the flip ups should be a *backup sight* to a primary optic.... if they are your primary or sole sight system, you should consider fixed sights. |
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Posted: 11/30/2004 11:49:00 AM EDT
[#30]
Great instructions and pics, THANKS FALARAK!
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Posted: 11/30/2004 12:26:05 PM EDT
[#31]
+1 Can we get this tacked??? C4 |
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Posted: 12/1/2004 12:24:05 PM EDT
[#32]
Hi,
I am new to building ARs and I am trying to build one from scratch. I have bought a YHM free float tube and was wondering do I need to buy the Delta ring, barrel nut and all the springs or do I just need the barrel, gas tube, front sight post and my YHM float tube? I'd appreciate any info. |
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Posted: 12/1/2004 1:59:52 PM EDT
[#33]
Thats all you need. The YHM tube comes with it's own aluminum barrel nut, so you dont need the factory delta ring, spring, or steel barrel nut. |
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Posted: 12/20/2004 8:00:05 AM EDT
[#34]
First, as a new guy around here, let me say thanks to FALARAK for all of the excellent DIY posts and to all of you who have contributed! This is a great board. Now on to my problem. When installing a FFT on my '89 Olympic Arms CAR, everything was going fine until I started to remove the barrel nut and FSB. The flash supressor appears to have a blind pin of some type holding it on. Any tips on removing and reinstalling? This 4.5" supressor is required to meet 16" and must be "premanately" installed.http://www.sportsprofile.com/images/BlindPin.JPG |
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Posted: 12/20/2004 12:20:55 PM EDT
[#35]
Thanks for the write-up!!
I would like to put the LaRue 12 on my 20" Bushy. I do not have a bench vice or any of the specialty tools you mention. I've got punches and all the regular tools, I've got a large amount of verious tools, I just don't have any gunsmithing type things. I'm reluctant to buy the FF handguard because the cost of the bench vice and all the specialty tools will be quite high. Is there anyway I can do this without the tools mentioned? Can a second person hold the upper during tightening to save the cost of a bench vice, bench, and $40 action block? I would invest in the tools if I knew I'd be doing this a lot, but I don't plan on ever doing this again. Any advice? |
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Posted: 12/22/2004 4:59:37 AM EDT
[#36]
In addition to my question above, I would also like to know how to get the front sight base off without a problem. It is (for lack of better words) painted to the barrel, do I have to score the paint before trying to remove it, or just twist the FSB to crack that paint?
Will I run into problems later on? Will it continue to chip away in that area? |
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Posted: 12/22/2004 6:42:57 AM EDT
[#37]
Not really. You can get by without the action block, but you would seriously need a vise. The pressure involved in removing a torqued on barrel can be quite high. The chance of damaging something without the proper tools is almost inevitable.
Nope. The torque involved is too great for that.... you could rig up some type of fixture, but if the upper is not properly supported, risk of damage is high.
Sure. Borrow them from someone in your local area. Post in your hometown forums and see who has them. If not, then make the purchases... do the work, then sell the items. Your loss will only be minimal.... but look at it this way. The cost of the tools will likely be about the same price as taking ONE upper to a gunsmith to have the work done. Even if you only ever did one.... it is still a wash. Bench vises can be had cheaply and are need for all kinds of work, not just gunsmithing.
It is not "painted" but it is assembled, then the barrel is parkerized as a unit. Parkerizing is not paint, and does not have the same "sealing" properties as paint does, like in a window where you will have to break the seal if you want to open the window after painting it. With parkerization, there is some park residue left over in the seam of the FSB to the barrel, but it is minimal and does not interfere with removal. I recommend spraying the area with a little WD-40 or the like... just to ease in slipping it off with this residue present, the first time. It is really no big deal. If all this looks like a littl much, or you dont want to invest in the tools, then I recommend you look into the Troy rails, which dont require near as much work. |
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Posted: 12/22/2004 1:22:03 PM EDT
[#38]
Well, I installed my first FF tube last night: a Larue 7.0 on an LMT 16" M4. I must say, I'm surprised at how easy it was, and it took me about an hour because I went slowly to make sure I didn't damage anything. This is one solid rail with a beautiful finish and I'm looking forward to doing a good bit of shooting with it this weekend.
Once I pushed out the gas tube roll pin, after a whole bunch of pulling and pushing I realized that the tube wasn't going to come out of the FSB without pliers or some other method that was going to cause damage. So I decided to see if I could do the installation without removing the gas tube from the FSB - and I could. I guess if you can't get the gas tube out of the FSB it's not a problem. I took the advice in this thread and others and knocked the #$%^ out of the pins in the FSB the first few hits using a 3lb sledge and a steel punch. What do you know, the pins came right out without a problem. No mushrooming, no sticking, no nothing. The rest of the install went pretty much as described above with the one wrinkle that my torque screwdriver couldn't reach into the locking plate screws, so I just tightened them by hand. Without even trying the rail lined up perfectly with the flattop. Thanks to all who posted instructions and their experience above - I wouldn't have done it without the material in this thread. I'll be able to post some pics soon, I hope. One thing I would say is that, unlike others who have posted, my DPMS multitool fit the Larue barrel nut perfectly and I didn't need the YHM tool - even thought I ordered one yesterday just in case. I sense that there are more FF rail installations in my future! |
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Posted: 12/22/2004 7:48:46 PM EDT
[#39]
tagged cause i really want the larue12
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Posted: 12/29/2004 2:29:34 PM EDT
[#40]
Quick question on the LaRue FF tube. Has anyone verified if the locking ring can be installed after you torque the barrel nut? I'm just checking to find out if I really need to dremel the action block so that the locking ring can be in place at the same time the barrel nut is being torqued.
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Posted: 12/29/2004 4:37:47 PM EDT
[#41]
Don't think you can. There's not enough room to get the key wiggled in between the upper & the nut after you tighten the nut. I use a DPMS block (the Panther Claw) and didn't have to Dremel anything - the upper is held from below and there's nothing to get in the way. |
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Posted: 12/29/2004 5:51:16 PM EDT
[#42]
Thanks 6530, I'll have to checkout one of thos DPMS blocks!
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Posted: 12/30/2004 3:16:53 AM EDT
[#43]
Tagged!
Well done! Great thread. Hep 
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Posted: 1/11/2005 5:36:37 PM EDT
[#44]
Can someone tell me if the piece that holds the hand guards on and butts right up to the fsb is actually part of the fsb. Will that piece come off if I remove the fsb. I am trying to put on a ff tube and get a clean front look and did not see this piece on any of the yhm flip up front sights and the new yhm flip up front sight base with the 4 clamp on screws is what I plan on going back with. Also, once the filp up front sight base is put on, can you remove/replace most free float tubes without removing that particular fsb? I hope this is not to confusing. Thanks, RG
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Posted: 1/11/2005 5:42:26 PM EDT
[#45]
No, that is the handguard cap is is not part of the FSB.
Yep. Falls off.
No. Removing most FF tubes requires removal of the FSB. Most will not slip over a folded front sight. The Troy is the exception. The new larues have a larger opening (mine doesnt) but I havent seen one and still can almost guarantee they would require removal of the YHM folding FSB. |
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Posted: 1/12/2005 12:23:47 PM EDT
[#46]
Serious advice for anyone who may attempt to do this modification:
This is a great guideline, but DO NOT even tray to do this without the tools mentioned by the Falarak, otherwise you’ll find your self in the world of wallet pain.he |
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Posted: 1/14/2005 10:06:13 AM EDT
[#47]
tag
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Posted: 1/15/2005 8:03:22 AM EDT
[#48]
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Posted: 1/17/2005 10:18:52 AM EDT
[#49]
In these DIY an A3 carry handle is used to properly align the FF tube. What's the recommended method if you have an A2 upper?
Does the Troy lower bracket (2 external screw heads) line up tightly enough with the receiver to insure alignment? What about the anti-spin device on the Larue? Does the gas tube hole insure an accurate alignment? |
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Posted: 1/18/2005 5:44:23 PM EDT
[#50]
.
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