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Posted: 9/15/2004 4:47:16 PM EDT
[#1]
It absolutely amazed me how easy this actually is. To date, I've done between 20 and 30 FF tubes of all types. The FSB seems to be the hardest part, but I really don't have a problem with them.
Thanks for a very good, informative post. It should get tacked and highlighted. |
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Posted: 9/15/2004 4:53:22 PM EDT
[#2]
I have absolutely no experience with these FF tubes. After seeing this thread I can see how they could spin loose.
Excellent post though, I understand better how these things work now. |
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Posted: 9/15/2004 6:36:39 PM EDT
[#3]
how much did your barrel get scratched when taking it off?
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Posted: 9/15/2004 7:08:34 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 9/15/2004 7:39:14 PM EDT
[#5]
I've been waiting to get an upper but don't have the money to get the rail system I want yet. Thanks to your informative post I think I'm going to get it and do the upgrade later myself. It seems so much less intimidating when there are good instructions with illustrations. This needs a tack.
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Posted: 9/16/2004 8:44:17 AM EDT
[#6]
Thank you. RED
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Posted: 9/16/2004 9:22:25 AM EDT
[#7]
How long does it take for the locktite to set and did you put it right on the inner threads of the locking nut?
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Posted: 9/16/2004 9:24:14 AM EDT
[#8]
K,
Why yo ass got a wedding band on?  You should re-post the link to the barrel install for idiots. BTW: Thats QUALITY! Thanks! |
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Posted: 9/16/2004 9:49:30 AM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 9/16/2004 9:57:05 AM EDT
[#10]
It doesnt take long... right after application, its already tighter, and in a few minutes, it starts getting a lot tighter. That why I recommend blue loctite... it's not permanent. I placed it on the threads of the barrel nut, at the back, close to the receiver, then threaded on the locking ring, then threaded on the float tube. So, the way I did it, there is not loctite on the float tube threads, only on the locking ring. I dont think it would hurt on the tube threads, but I didnt want to make it a pain to remove should I want to.hand... he assisted and advised on the install. |
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Posted: 9/16/2004 12:02:00 PM EDT
[#11]
tag
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Posted: 9/17/2004 5:29:19 AM EDT
[#12]
bump
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Posted: 9/17/2004 5:46:09 AM EDT
[#13]
Tagaroo
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Posted: 9/18/2004 10:23:23 AM EDT
[#14]
I am looking to possibly use a DD or Larue FF tube on my next build - is there anything significantly different when installing one of these? I just did a little work on one of my rifles and removed the FSB - it was on solid and I had to beat on it pretty heavily to get it to come off - it sounds like mine must have been park'd after assembly or something to make it so stubborn...
Spooky ETA: Sweet write up on the Larue installation! Looks like it should be easy enough!!! |
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Posted: 9/18/2004 11:24:42 AM EDT
[#15]
Have you used other barrel lube than the one moly you listed? |
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Posted: 9/18/2004 7:10:30 PM EDT
[#16]
I have a BM upper block, and it is a sort of soft/sturdy plastic.
I had my upper in and out of the block many times, waiting for last Monday. It is a very nicely made piece of equipment. |
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Posted: 9/19/2004 11:29:51 AM EDT
[#17]
If you will buy me one... I will tell you.  Seriously, I havent seen them yet.... so will have to defer to those more knowledgeable. I am sure most will be similar in design.... havent heard of any that require more tools than whats mentioned here.
I believe they all are parked after assembly.
None whatsoever.
Assume you mean the receiver thread/barrel nut lube - I used a little nickel antisieze once, on my first install, but since have gone to generic moly grease... I picked up a big tub of "Coastal" brand at my autozone for $2. I personally dont think it matters a lot, as the majority of the purpose is to keep galling from occurring during the assembly process, so the barrel could be removed several times without doing permanent damage to the upper receiver.... but since moly grease is the spec, and its easily available for cheap.... I figured why not go with what is called for? Generic grease in your grease gun will do just fine... just probably wont have as high of a dropping point (temperature rating) as moly grease... big deal. |
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Posted: 9/19/2004 1:46:25 PM EDT
[#18]
Pretty good catch. As for the DD and other free-floats, the basics are the same, just the connections may differ a little. ex. DD uses two pins to align the freefloat tube. |
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Posted: 9/19/2004 2:53:24 PM EDT
[#19]
If you install a LaRue Tactical FF tube, you do NOT need to use loc tite. It is the only one piece FF tube on the market that doesn't require it... C4 www.gandrtactical.com |
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Posted: 9/20/2004 8:46:59 AM EDT
[#20]
tag, and thanks I needed this
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Posted: 9/21/2004 3:35:41 PM EDT
[#21]
If you are removing and resintalling the same FSB on the same barrel, you cannot screw it up. The taper holes are drilled in the barrel, and in the FSB.... and when taking it off/resintalling it on the same barrel, it will line up perfectly where it was before. There is no room for "play". The taper pins as you drive them in will line it back up exactly where it was drilled. |
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Posted: 9/23/2004 11:32:16 AM EDT
[#22]
How about replacing with a new FSB - preferrably one with a bayo lug |
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Posted: 9/23/2004 12:37:58 PM EDT
[#23]
The pins on the new FSB should fit back into the same holes. But I'm no expert. Just the way I understand it. My question is should you not use a new gas tube if your going to remove the barrel? |
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Posted: 10/5/2004 8:02:52 PM EDT
[#24]
.
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Posted: 10/5/2004 8:51:06 PM EDT
[#25]
why don't any of these DIY topics get pinned?
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Posted: 10/5/2004 8:57:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Uhhh, they do. This one IS pinned... at the top of this very "build it yourself" forum.... along with all my other DIY projects: ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=202467 |
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Posted: 10/5/2004 9:51:05 PM EDT
[#27]
Then we'll consider my linking it in the FAQ to be a back up.
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Posted: 10/6/2004 5:48:00 AM EDT
[#28]
FALARAK,
Thanks for this. I feel a lot more confident about tackling it myself now. |
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Posted: 10/11/2004 7:38:40 PM EDT
[#29]
Excellent post, and timely, too, since I was just about to buy a YHM FF tube.
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Posted: 10/12/2004 9:52:33 AM EDT
[#30]
FALARAK,
Thanks for the article. Just installed my mid-length YHM fore-end without a hitch! (edited because i'm blind) |
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Posted: 10/12/2004 2:00:29 PM EDT
[#31]
Good Idea, FALARAK Thanks! I was needing a motivation to try it out. From the way you discribe it, its a breeze. |
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Posted: 10/13/2004 7:18:14 AM EDT
[#32]
Please tack this.
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Posted: 10/13/2004 7:23:22 AM EDT
[#33]
Great post, these how-to threads rock! Thanks.
r/s Dan |
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Posted: 10/13/2004 7:58:05 AM EDT
[#34]
It is. We dont want to tack every single how-to thread.... so there is one post, tacked at the top, that contains this link. ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=202467 Should I change the title of that tacked post to make it more obvious? I know "build your own rifle from parts" porbably doesnt assume "free float your own barrel" but I am not sure how to make an all encompassing title.... abviously there has been some confusion on this, because a few people have thought this wasnt tacked, when in fact, it is. 
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Posted: 10/18/2004 5:16:27 PM EDT
[#35]
My Model One postban muzzle brake is welded on!!!!!! Damnit, no free float for me I guess.
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Posted: 10/18/2004 5:30:43 PM EDT
[#36]
Thanks Falarak! This post is going to come in handy in a couple of weeks
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Posted: 10/18/2004 7:38:30 PM EDT
[#37]
You can dremel through the welds, and remove any blind pins, and remove the brake to accomplish this. If you post which type of brake you have, I am sure someone here has experience removing one. Or.... ADCO can remove it for you if you send it to them, and I hear their work is top notch and priced right. |
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Posted: 10/20/2004 3:37:14 PM EDT
[#38]
 Got it! Free float tube on the way as we speak, and oh btw, model one uses straight pins, not tapered! FSB was a 10 minute removal, now I'm just waiting on parts. Thanks to all who give me the knowledge and guts to WECSOG myself into bliss !So much funner to do it yourself. Although I found AR15.com and got the courage to build a kit to save money and now three or four configurations later I could've bought an M4 and a Varminter !
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Posted: 10/30/2004 11:13:49 AM EDT
[#39]
Rusty69:
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Posted: 10/30/2004 11:47:25 AM EDT
[#40]
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Posted: 10/30/2004 12:38:27 PM EDT
[#41]
No... you can just tap out the pin, and pull the gas tube out from the inside of the upper receiver. It will be slightly challenging getting the new one back into the FSB, but it can be done. However, there is *no* reason to change this out, or replace it. If you dont have a problem with your current one.... no reason to replace it unless you really, really, really want to have a used, spare sitting around. If you just want a new one, for it's shiny good looks, when doing a barrel swap, by all means go ahead. But since yours is assembled... no way. Looks sharp by the way. |
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Posted: 11/2/2004 5:05:55 AM EDT
[#42]
I would like to know if the YMH 1-Piece is as good as TROY MRF-C is Troy worth the extra money??
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Posted: 11/2/2004 8:49:53 AM EDT
[#43]
The Troy is a very cool unique FF tube, in that you do not have to remove/replace the barrel to install it. It uses a clamp to attach to the factory barrel nut. This can be very advantageous for people who have a permanently attached muzzle device and dont want to deal with having it removed, and removing the FSB, to install a float tube. With the troy, you can use a dremel to cut off your delta ring and snap it on. I dont want to say one is better than the other... they are just different. The YHM is unique, in that there is no other decent float tube, with the quad rail, and lightweight, in the sub $100 range. If I was considering a better tube, in the $250-$350 range, I would go with the Larue. It just kicks ass. For those on a budget, the YHM is money well spent. |
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Posted: 11/3/2004 3:31:08 AM EDT
[#44]
I am going with Troy MRF-C ordered from troy yesterday because I can put on my self with out taking the barrel off and got a call last night from Denny said he got a shippment from LMT so I be getting my LE LMT/Crane SOPMOD lower end of this week and 16'' upper ships today from Paul at Bravo Co. so all my toys will be in real soon.
 
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Posted: 11/9/2004 2:24:11 PM EDT
[#45]
I did mine last weekend!! I did not pull the barrel, and also left the gas tube in the FSB. Slugged the crap out of the FSB with a big rubber mallet, but it came off eventually, thank god for FORGINGS not CASTINGS. The YHM 3 pin wrench BROKE a pin when I was trying to UNdo the original BM barrel nut, Good thing I have an arbor press to fix the pin.
It took a 2 pound hammer on the end of the wrench to break the orignal nut loose. oh and the taper pins. What the hell does BM use to put those things in with??? I DESTROYED a brass punch and had to resort to taking a round file, flattening the end, then countersinking a dimple into the flat end to reduce slipping and once again use the 2 pound hammer. But it is done, the gun is fine, functions like new and has a nice 4 rail on the front. I shall post pics as soon as it is in her poo..... Oh wait. I will post pics as soon as I take some. |
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Posted: 11/9/2004 2:38:23 PM EDT
[#46]
 Dude! Use the armorers wrench for that!!! That YHM wrench is for INSTALLING the float tube, NOT removing the stock barrel nut!!!!
Sometimes they can be tight. Bushy has been known to overtorque em.....
Yeah, thats why i use a LARGE brass punch (over 1/4" thick) on these to knock em loose... and it dimples the end pretty good. They are tapered, and they just get wedged in there pretty good. Just gotta pound em!
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Posted: 11/10/2004 2:01:51 PM EDT
[#47]
Over torque , weld, Bushy came close on that... I have built a couple FALs and they take more torque on the barrels, and my Bushy was at least up in the 130 lb range, well over what it should have been.
On the wrench, sucks to be on a strict budget, The fear struck through me when that pin snapped.... Might need to do the sneaky cash buy at the next fun show. |
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Posted: 11/13/2004 4:00:07 PM EDT
[#48]
I just installed a YHM free float.Didnt have a armores blockor wrench nor did I clamp the action...But had a friend help me and a vise. Some 2x4's and some shop wrags over the 2x4's..I was told buy a gunsmith it wouldn't hurt the gun to clamp the barrel in provided you don't go crazy..He does it this way all the time.Damn the delta ring was tight..Had to use a hammer..
My question is this...When I thightened the new barrel nut.I snugged it up with the YHM tool as tight as I could make it.I was real close to the next aligning hole.I then took a hammer and lined it up..Hitting the tool of course.. Will this work or should I have my friend fire it lol???????????..  And what about torgue.I really wish Yhm would give ya a slot in the tool to add a torgue wrench.Being I done this in my auto repair shop.And have about 3 torgue wrenches...As far as the locking ring its easy to scratch.Next time I do this I will tape it.But in my case its going to be pakerized again and camoed out..Just a few scratches on the locking ring oh well its tight for sure.
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Posted: 11/13/2004 7:27:43 PM EDT
[#49]
My tube should be here Wednesday most likely.. I'll have to try this.. Need some of those snap ring pliers to get the barrel off though.....
Looks pretty simple, hope it actually is |
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Posted: 11/13/2004 8:15:06 PM EDT
[#50]
It is simple.But tape everything up.I didnt have any problems with the fsb and you dont have to remove the gas tube just the 2 lower pins on the front sight.My only gripe was the YHM SPANNER WRENCH IT SLIPS OF EASILY..When tightening the lock ring. ALSO THE RAILS MUST ALIGN RIGHT OR YOURE WASTING YOURE TIME... THIS IS THE HARDEST PART OF IT AND THE LOCK RING.Its hard to line it up be very picky and double check it.. Also with blue lock tight on the threads it has to be done quickly...The 3 prong part works well.I have heard of it breaking takin off the delta ring but I didn't have any issue.Except I needed to beat it with a hammer..THE ONLY SCRATCHES i HAVE ARE ON THE LOCKING NUT AND SUPER MINOR.So minor you guys would critize me for it. really..............IM HAVING THE GUN RE PAKERIZED AND CAMOED OUT THIS IS NOT A ISSUE..I was going to due it any way..................
IF YOU WANT NOT ONE SCRATCH TAPE THAT LOCKING RING AND THE FLOAT TUBE and every thing else scotch tape it. And you dont need snap ring pliers if your going with the set i have SOLID or the light weight yhm set up.Infact you dont remove the barrell at all... |
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