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Originally Posted By DocBach:
if you want to spend money, find an SU-230/PVS and put it on your build. You don't need a recce or whatever rifle, your Block II would work it just fine with a better optic than an aimpoint micro. I already have the 3x magnifier for my t1. T me, the t1 is the superior optic. Nothing comes close as far as eotech vs Aimpoint is concerned. Now for the su230, I would like to have one but I just can't afford it. If someone will take a t1 and a 3x mag in trade for one IDE do it |
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I've deicded to leave the block II alone. Take off the t1, save up for a tan eotech.....and turn my spare LMT into an sbr mk18 mod 0
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Seriously though, the Elcan would pretty much turn your gun into a do everything kind of rifle. Sell the Aimpoint and Magnifier then save up and find one.
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"Soldier, you need to turn your ACOG off before the batteries die." - PMI Instructor, subject matter expert
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Originally Posted By DocBach:
Seriously though, the Elcan would pretty much turn your gun into a do everything kind of rifle. Sell the Aimpoint and Magnifier then save up and find one. I'd vote this. I bought an eotech for the hell of it, just to have the correct sight for a package deal. I normally run all aimpoints, but the elcan is very nice. I've enjoyed the time I've had behind it, and I'd buy another if they weren't so godawful expensive. |
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No elcan for me for at least 15 months. School loans come first for a purchase that big.
I may move the t1 to the mk18 and get one eventually for the block ii |
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You're thinking too much, Matty.
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PAKI-MADE GET YOU LAID, INSHALLAH.
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Nothing worth while comes easy...
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Looks good. What barrel are you going to get, if any?
I sold off my Colt SOCOM/URX II upper and am looking at replicating my block II build but going with a 14.5" mid length barrel. Can't decide between the DD or the Centurion Arms. Will probably pin a SureFire 556-215A. |
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Jon, looks great! The DD comes with a pinned low profile gas block. I think that's a great feature. That's one of the reasons I went with the DD on mine. I greatly prefer the more durable pinned gas block over using one held with set screws. I had not noticed if the Centurion comes with one or not.
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www.gungalleryjax.com
FDCC - www.fldcc.com/ Duffy - "Dang URX Mafia" |
I might have to look into it. I kinda wanted a CA barrel to have something a little different, but they are like $345 for barrel and gas block and that's without the work to have it pinned. I will give DD a closer look.
Thanks for the tip. |
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Originally Posted By cmcflex:
I might have to look into it. I kinda wanted a CA barrel to have something a little different, but they are like $345 for barrel and gas block and that's without the work to have it pinned. I will give DD a closer look. Thanks for the tip. Full retail on the DD is, I think, $335. That's with the pinned gas block, no gas tube however. Both are excellent barrels, I'm sure. After building an upper for a guy using a Centurion, I really want to look closer into carrying their line. Centurion donated one of those barrels to a rifle match we run here in FL. I know the guy who won it. He's a shooter and that was a year ago, I'll ask him his impressions. |
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www.gungalleryjax.com
FDCC - www.fldcc.com/ Duffy - "Dang URX Mafia" |
For you folks that built your own , did you shave down the fsb's , use the DD mk18 blocks or did you find other gas blocks that were similar to the DD block? Thank you.
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Nothing worth while comes easy...
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I used a set-screwed DD Mk12 low-pro block.
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PAKI-MADE GET YOU LAID, INSHALLAH.
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ADCO shaved my FSB. I will use a Centurion Arms low-pro gas block on my next one, though, since the barrel will be stripped.
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Does Centurion Arms offer a standard/govt profile CHF 14.5" barrel? Everything I could find was lightweight profile when I was looking.
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Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
Does Centurion Arms offer a standard/govt profile CHF 14.5" barrel? Everything I could find was lightweight profile when I was looking. I'm not sure. Centurion's Web site is a little slow to update and the barrel pics differ from what I have seen from dealers. I got mine from Weapon Outfitters (they're having a 10% off Halloween sale, btw). It appears to be not quite a lightweight but not quite full govt profile, either. There is a little bit of lightening going on in front of the gas block. |
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Originally Posted By cmcflex:
Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
Does Centurion Arms offer a standard/govt profile CHF 14.5" barrel? Everything I could find was lightweight profile when I was looking. I'm not sure. Centurion's Web site is a little slow to update and the barrel pics differ from what I have seen from dealers. I got mine from Weapon Outfitters (they're having a 10% off Halloween sale, btw). It appears to be not quite a lightweight but not quite full govt profile, either. There is a little bit of lightening going on in front of the gas block. ive built a rifle from one if the cent barrels and the contour is basically the same as the noveske N4 barrels, with the gas block area being just a bit different(the section that is thicker in diameter for the gas block is actually a bit longer) they alos offer it in 14.5 middy too. the guy i built the rifle for has said the barrel is amazing too, shoots great with everything he has tried. i wouldnd hesitate to build a rifle with one, and i would get it from Roy at weapon outifitters-great guy and can tell you all you need to know about the barrels-he knows monty pretty well i think |
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"Mortality is seldom considered something to be lost until it almost is." -DM1975
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Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
Does Centurion Arms offer a standard/govt profile CHF 14.5" barrel? Everything I could find was lightweight profile when I was looking. Just so you know: the "correct" barrel to use for THIS rifle (M4A1 SOPMOD block II) is a SOCOM profile "heavy" barrel. The "light-weight" and "government" profiles are wrong, for what it's worth. |
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Originally Posted By FAB-10_Guy:
Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
Does Centurion Arms offer a standard/govt profile CHF 14.5" barrel? Everything I could find was lightweight profile when I was looking. Just so you know: the "correct" barrel to use for THIS rifle (M4A1 SOPMOD block II) is a SOCOM profile "heavy" barrel. The "light-weight" and "government" profiles are wrong, for what it's worth. Well aware of that... I used the LMT in my mk18 and Neil built my m4a1 block 2 type upper with a BCM 14.5". I'm not too worried about "correct", I use this as a work rifle and really didn't want the extra 5 onces, or whatever it is for the SOCOM profile. I have other rifles I guess some could call clones as well, it none are really correct... I shot a buddy's CHF 16" Centurion and it was very accurate. I know his mk12 uses the correct 18" barrel. For a while I believe he was one of the only ones. I think it was Neil telling me about 1 or 2 others using them as well. He uses a cut mk12 barrel for the recce as well. From what I understand, his CHF barrels are some of the most accurate available. If I could find a standard profile 14.5", I'd probably order one. From the website, they only offer mid lengths in 14.5". I'm going to send him an email today to find out about the profiles. For a while there I really wanted a registered lower. I just sold my MP5 and though. Liked the option of full auto, it wasn't something I used often. So, in that respect, I don't see a real need for the SOCOM profile for my needs. I get my guns hot, but so far the BCM has proved to be very accurate when hot. I posted a pic last week of 2" ten shot group at 85~ yards with xm193 using only the magazine and elbows. I'm content. I guess we could say few of the clones we see are correct due to not using a registered lower... I have an S&B 5-25x56 on my m107. I'd get my ass kicked in an m107 clone thread! ;) |
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Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
I guess we could say few of the clones we see are correct due to not using a registered lower... Exactly. We can build close clones, but few of us will actually ever have the real thing. This thread deviated from actual clones long ago, and really has turned into less of a picture thread than probably intended. Still, though, these configurations are among my favorites. |
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
POS rifle http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/dillsmod/P9030006.jpg Similar to mine with the T1 and magnifier... I posted this before but that PB account when over the limit, though I thought I upgraded to Pro before. The flash hider on mine is an A2x but since it's an SBR'd lower, I'm not permanently attaching it for now. I'm going to put a Surefire flash hider on it and will likely pin and weld it so i don't have to worry about which lower and when I travel, though "permission slips" aren't really a hassle. I have a SOPMOD on my mk18, but will probably switch both to the Vltor iMod. I've made a lot of changes with my rifles in the past 6 months or so and originally I just wanted to switch to the RIS II from the URX II's I was using, but ended up with a new upper....after a lot of undue hassle on my end. I never intended this or the mk18 as clones, but just rifles with the RIS II. Then when I saw these types of threads,I started getting interested in the history behind them. But, at least for me, I can't use parts that don't work well for me just because they fit a description better. I'm willing to give the exps-3 EoTech a try eventually. I'd also like the Elcan but the added weight over a T1 and the fact that if I'm forced to use my rifle, it'll likely be with 50 yards or much less, I'd probably stick with the T1 anyway then just use the Elcan at the ranch when we to hog hunting. Right now, keeping the magnifier handy works better for me. When we're hunting even though we drive the property in a Jeep or club car, we still get out and walk for hours. Believe me, I'm trying to find an excuse, even just one good one, but I can't find a need for it just yet.....but I will with time I'm sure. |
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Originally Posted By cmcflex:
Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
I guess we could say few of the clones we see are correct due to not using a registered lower... Exactly. We can build close clones, but few of us will actually ever have the real thing. This thread deviated from actual clones long ago, and really has turned into less of a picture thread than probably intended. Still, though, these configurations are among my favorites. Technically, a US Mil lower is not registered either. |
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Originally Posted By Stottman:
Originally Posted By cmcflex:
Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
I guess we could say few of the clones we see are correct due to not using a registered lower... Exactly. We can build close clones, but few of us will actually ever have the real thing. This thread deviated from actual clones long ago, and really has turned into less of a picture thread than probably intended. Still, though, these configurations are among my favorites. Technically, a US Mil lower is not registered either. Ok... A select fire lower with full auto cpabilities. Personally, I don't have much desire for one. I really enjoyed my MP5 but it wasn't worth the $16,000 to me once the newness wore off.. The profit made it a good buy, but the full auto fire alone was not worth the price of admission. |
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So, Roger from BattleArms Development sent me one of his improved brackets for the MaTech. It's quite a bit more robust than the standard mounting bracket and gives a good bit more purchase to the rail. Just thought I'd mention it since I've broken a few sights before and anything that makes the mount more solid, I'm all for it..
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Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
So, Roger from BattleArms Development sent me one of his improved brackets for the MaTech. It's quite a bit more robust than the standard mounting bracket and gives a good bit more purchase to the rail. Just thought I'd mention it since I've broken a few sights before and anything that makes the mount more solid, I'm all for it.. I have one of those on my MK18 Mod1 clone, it is a good upgrade if you already have the sight. |
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www.gungalleryjax.com
FDCC - www.fldcc.com/ Duffy - "Dang URX Mafia" |
www.gungalleryjax.com
FDCC - www.fldcc.com/ Duffy - "Dang URX Mafia" |
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
POS rifle http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/dillsmod/P9030006.jpg Hey your in the Flordia Defensive Carbine Club? I live in Tampa and have been looking into that club. By the way your rifle looks sweet but it would look REALLY nice with a tan EOTECH.... |
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Hey John, a friend and I started FDCC 11 years ago when I moved to FL. If you have any questions, feel free to email or IM me. We'd love to have you cone shoot with us.
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www.gungalleryjax.com
FDCC - www.fldcc.com/ Duffy - "Dang URX Mafia" |
Debating whether i even want to finish my rifle.
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I'll gladly pay you tuesday for larue goodies today.
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Originally Posted By lowonair: Debating whether i even want to finish my rifle. Uhh, wut? |
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PAKI-MADE GET YOU LAID, INSHALLAH.
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Originally Posted By lowonair:
Debating whether i even want to finish my rifle. You should finish it!!! In my opinion they are one of the nicest setups out there. As well as very functional! |
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Originally Posted By lowonair:
Debating whether i even want to finish my rifle. Why not finish it??? |
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Originally Posted By damcv62:
Originally Posted By lowonair:
Debating whether i even want to finish my rifle. Why not finish it??? The main reason is that i was wanting a noveske rifle when i found that neil had this upper for sale so i jumped on it. While it's nice gun all put together, it's not the one i wanted. I wanted to build this after the noveske but the noveske was out of stock everywhere so i got impatient and jumped on this. You never know i may finish it. |
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I'll gladly pay you tuesday for larue goodies today.
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pfft - did USSOCOM choose Noveske as their combat rifle?
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"Soldier, you need to turn your ACOG off before the batteries die." - PMI Instructor, subject matter expert
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Originally Posted By DocBach:
pfft - did USSOCOM choose Noveske as their combat rifle? If they wanted what i want, they would. |
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I'll gladly pay you tuesday for larue goodies today.
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PAKI-MADE GET YOU LAID, INSHALLAH.
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Originally Posted By lowonair:
Originally Posted By damcv62:
Originally Posted By lowonair:
Debating whether i even want to finish my rifle. Why not finish it??? The main reason is that i was wanting a noveske rifle when i found that neil had this upper for sale so i jumped on it. While it's nice gun all put together, it's not the one i wanted. I wanted to build this after the noveske but the noveske was out of stock everywhere so i got impatient and jumped on this. You never know i may finish it. Fair enough. If its not what you want, then sell it and get what you do want. I want a set of clones, so I'd say finish it. I wanted to put mine together today, got the last couple of parts, I went to my buddies to do it, and when I got there, noticed that I had left the barrel at home. Kind of an important piece. So we drank and watched football instead. |
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I'm making some changes to my rifle this week. Removed the tango down grip and rail covers. Replaced with taupe KAC rail covers and no grip at all. Removed my TLR1 light. Pretty sure im selling the eotech magnifier and maybe the 553 because I bought at nightforce 2.5-10x24. Might keep both optic setups and sell my irons.
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Originally Posted By lowonair:
Originally Posted By DocBach:
pfft - did USSOCOM choose Noveske as their combat rifle? If they wanted what i want, they would. Well, I don't own a Noveske, although I probably should: I've heard they are nice. I built an M4A1 clone for a couple of reasons: commonality with what I'm issued and though they aren't fancy, they get the job done..."My daddy always said, 'When you want to hammer a nail into a piece of wood, don't do anything fancy. Just get a hammer and pound the son of a bitch'." Church from Soldier. |
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I'm being naughty. |
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
I'm being naughty. What does that entail? |
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So, I broke the cable on my SR07 Surefire switch yesterday. I got hung up in some brush I guess and the the outer part split and exposed some wire. It's still functional, but I'm concerned about it getting wet now. I've broken, or worn out from time is more like it, a couple of the older style Surefire cables, but this is the first newer style or SR07 I've damaged.
So, out of curiosity, what do you guys prefer on your block 2's that actually use your lights on a regular basis? I was going to throw the other one on there or just one of the newer switches I have, but for the hell of it I threw the mini Scout on a Gear Sector offset mount, put the regular click-on/off tail cap on and moved it to the left side of my rifle. Are most of you dealing with a particular light due to being more appropriate for the clone, or are most using what works best? For the past two years or so, I went back to cable switches and swore that they were much improved and good to go. I'm now rethinking that after yesterday. On my mk18 I prefer a switch due to the shorter, more compact rail. With the 12" RIS II, I have a lot more room to work and think I will give this setup a few weeks to see how it plays out. Just curious what others have experienced. |
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Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
So, I broke the cable on my SR07 Surefire switch yesterday. I got hung up in some brush I guess and the the outer part split and exposed some wire. It's still functional, but I'm concerned about it getting wet now. I've broken, or worn out from time is more like it, a couple of the older style Surefire cables, but this is the first newer style or SR07 I've damaged. So, out of curiosity, what do you guys prefer that actually use your lights on a regular basis? I was going to throw the other one on there or just one of the newer switches I have, but for the hell of it I threw the mini Scout on a Gear Sector offset mount, put the regular click-on/off tail cap on and moved it to the left side of my rifle. On my mk18 I prefer a switch due to the shorter, more compact rail. With the 12" RIS II, I have a lot more room to work and think I will give this setup a few weeks to see how it plays out. Just curious what others have experienced. Not sure how you define regular basis... But I do 3-4 classes a year and try to get to the range 3-4 times a month. I dont use tape switches, ever. You always get burned. I've seen it happen in training on my guns. I've seen it happen to .mil/LEO guns during their training. Tape switches always go down. Its one thing if you're in the military and its all youve got. But I always giggle a bit seeing all the guys on here do it because they saw a cool poster do it or saw it on a DVD. I use clicky caps on my scouts and the regular paddle on X300s or TLR1s. |
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The legend.
miseratio proeliator |
Originally Posted By cowboy:
Originally Posted By jonconsiglio:
So, I broke the cable on my SR07 Surefire switch yesterday. I got hung up in some brush I guess and the the outer part split and exposed some wire. It's still functional, but I'm concerned about it getting wet now. I've broken, or worn out from time is more like it, a couple of the older style Surefire cables, but this is the first newer style or SR07 I've damaged. So, out of curiosity, what do you guys prefer that actually use your lights on a regular basis? I was going to throw the other one on there or just one of the newer switches I have, but for the hell of it I threw the mini Scout on a Gear Sector offset mount, put the regular click-on/off tail cap on and moved it to the left side of my rifle. On my mk18 I prefer a switch due to the shorter, more compact rail. With the 12" RIS II, I have a lot more room to work and think I will give this setup a few weeks to see how it plays out. Just curious what others have experienced. Not sure how you define regular basis... But I do 3-4 classes a year and try to get to the range 3-4 times a month. I dont use tape switches, ever. You always get burned. I've seen it happen in training on my guns. I've seen it happen to .mil/LEO guns during their training. Tape switches always go down. Its one thing if you're in the military and its all youve got. But I always giggle a bit seeing all the guys on here do it because they saw a cool poster do it or saw it on a DVD. I use clicky caps on my scouts and the regular paddle on X300s or TLR1s. I guess I just meant guys that actually use these rifles for more than just to have a clone in the safe... Mine will be my work gun once I get a few more rounds through it. I've been using the SR07 for over a year now on two rifles and one in particular saw a lot of heavy use, a week or so out at the ranch, hunting trips and training classes. They both worked all the time and never got hung up on anything. So, after more than a year I was pretty certain the new styles from Surefire were considerably more reliable and robust. BUT, the one that broke was a newer one without as much use and the only reason I'm even thinking it could have been from getting caught up is its the only thing that happened that could explain it. I know they all eventually go and I'm ok with that part of it. I always at least have a spare standard switch or click-on tail cap in my bag, but I expect it to wear out more than I expect them to break. I don't know. I'll still need to run a switch for the PEQ 15 when I use one, but that's not an everyday thing there's a nice big button on top should the switch fail. The switch and button tail cap is the only thing I like about the Millenium series of lights better than scouts. On the scout, If the switch breaks, you have no white light on the rifle. I've never broken a clicky tailcap. I've always used the paddle as well on my x300, but on the scouts I used cables. I think I'm done with them for now though. Thanks. |
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I agree, the more I've used lights (though not hardcore use by any means), the more I prefer using the switch on the light itself. For instance, I used to use an Insight M3 at the front 6 o'clock position, using my index finger to curl around and tap the rocker switch. It was a really good set up. Now that I have the M300A though, I'm not sure how I'll run it... probably right side, and just go over the handguard to activate it. I will try it out in different ways once my M4 comes together.
On another note: How many of you guys are using carbine gas? How about mid gas? I'm thinking about just getting a Colt 6920, cutting down the FSB, selling the stock, carry handle, and A2, and throwing on the Block 2 components... If not that, I'm going to have new-arguy build it for me with a midlength 16" barrel. |
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