On this rifle I'm using a 300a as well. I've found when using a cable I like a standard side mount on the right but when I'm using the tailcap I prefer it on the left side of the rifle in an offset mount. That way with my normal grip my thumb lands right next to it and there's no change in my grip necessary to activate it other than just moving my thumb.

I used to go over the handguard like you're talking about and it worked ok. I was using a cable activated scout light on an SR15 and then an E1b Surefire on the other SR15. Both were on the right side and I went over the rail to activate the E1b. Since it was more of a backup rifle, I rarely used it compared to the other. Well, I was reading on Lightfighter how a good number of times guys running their light that way through a shoot house were failing to activate it consistently. I thought that was BS since I've done it just fine, so the next time out at our local carbine shoot (which I do not attend enough) I tried using it even though it was daylight... and sure enough I was having to focus on it a bit more than I would a cable switch or an offset light on the left side. It was interesting as I thought I was comfortable with that setup.

So, depending on your grip, I'd suggest giving it a try for a few weeks offset on the left side. You can always go back. I run a stuby TD vert grip about 10 spaces back from the front on the RIS II. My scout in a gear sector mount has one rail section in front of it. I would run it all the way forward, but the KAC's screw won't allow it. In this position, whether I'm using the very grip as a hand stop and my thumb wrapped over the top or occasionally (depends on the situation) I have my thumb along the top of the 9 o'clock rail with my finger wrapped around the front of the very grip. Either way, all I have to do is move my thumb over and activate the light. When I'm not using the light, my hand glass around it perfectly and there's no interference.

I'm running a BCM 14.5" mid length. I was back and forth on this after some (though just a few) reports of some cycling issues with weaker ammo. Then I thought about it... at home and work I'm using 75gr TAP, 62gr TSX or some type of 5.56 fmj for training a majority of the time. I will throw some weak stuff through it at the local range, but for anything that's even somewhat important, I run 5.56. So, I decided the mid length was fine for my uses.

I'm using a Vltor A5 that has one of the two tungsten weights replaced with steel to lighten it a bit. I've put a total of 300 rounds of steel cased Brown Bear through it without even a single failure to lock back. I'm sold on the 14.5" mid lengths. It shoots just as soft as my SR15's did, is slightly more accurate and feels solid and not sluggish or weak in any way.

Having said that, I'd be more than happy to run a Colt and almost did something along the lines of what you're talking about.

Mine is a 6920 with the block 2 changes. I love it.

The only kind of ammo I have right now is PMC 55grn. I'm not a match shooter or anything, so I don't plan on buying fancy ammo unless the cheap stuff causes problems. Thoughts on how that would work on either set-up? Both the carbine and mid would be 16" for a while at least, as I don't want to commit to a single muzzle device until I get a can.

Big +1 for the 14.5" midlength system.

If you're sticking with a 16", there's absolutely no reason to choose a carbine over mid length. This isn't to say I wouldn't be happy with a Colt 6920, but if given the choice I'd opt for the mid length.

What I'm referring to with ammo is for the 14.5". The 16" does not have any of the ammo related issues that exhibit themselves, though rare, with the 14.5".

With an H buffer, and most likely an H2 as well, using a BCM 16" mid length you'd be good to go...and BCM uses pretty small gas ports on their mid length in comparison to Noveske, for example, and especially compared to Bushmaster or other similar commercial grade AR.

Starting recently, I like to run IMI 855. At about $350 per 1,200 it's a great deal.

I guess my reasoning would be that I can have an interim quality rifle before I have the funds to get a M4 RIS II. I have seen some really good prices for the 6920, sub $1,000. I do plan to get it cut down and perm-attached, for now I just don't want to commit to a single muzzle device/adaptor –– while the SF cans are nice, I'm also interested to see how the new KAC offerings are. The barrel would end up being a DD if I go the mid length route, as they have the pinned GBs and, based on reports from another member here, have less POI shifts when using suppressors compared to BCM. Don't quote me on that, as I don't want to start a fight over this...

This is kinda what I did. Got my 6920 shot it a bunch and started making changes as I saw fit. Ended up with a block 2 type rifle but have to keep the 16" barrel due to the long AAC spr/m4 supressor mount. I had a mid length Noveske before the colt and I've been enjoying the Colt much more. I guess I haven't discovered why mid length is so popular, but for me, as long as carbine works, I'll use it.

Plus, Colt is cool

If both the BCM and Daniel Defense are standard profile, they should have very similar shift. If the BCM is a lightweight, then it'll have a little more most likely. A friend of mine has a 16" mid length with an AAC SPR can and there is almost zero shift.

I've looked into KAC's new cans and mounts and they look like a big step for them in the right direction over the NT4. My issue with it was I had two Triple Taps on my rifles and an NT4 on order. When the pics came out from the KAC tour of the new cans (which are still quite some time away, if I remember correctly) and I asked about backwards compatibility either for the new cans and the Triple Tap or flash hider mount or the new MAMS mount and the NT4, Kevin stated they would not be interchangeable. So, Even though the new cans should be on par with the M4-2000 or Surefire 212, there's still sme things I just don't like about them. What made it worse was that they were going to produce the new cans with the gate lock that would be backwards compatible, but they will be a military only offering. I just don't get that.

I think the 16" barrel is usually the best choice of there's any chance you might make a change. Once it's pinned, there's no changing the rail, has block or muzzle device without cutting, as you're well aware. Mine is on an SBR'd lower though I do have the A2x installed, it's just not pinned. Once my Surefire can comes in, I'll be switching to a 212 flash hider and will likely permanently attach it so I can use other lowers, but I'm not sure of that yet.

Thanks for the input, guys. For now, I'll just let the money keep piling in, and see how the market looks when I've got the proper scratch. Since I've got all the accessories now, I have no reason to waste my money on other stuff.

Here's a quote about the barrel POI shift:



This was posted in another thread on here, some of you may have seen the discussion. I don't think this has anything to do with barrel profiles, but rather the threading. Once again, I don't want to start an argument about brand X versus brand Y –– the guy who posted it even qualified that he was not bashing brands.

Where's everyone getting their Eotechs from? Looking to spend 400-450

That's correct. I wasn't even thinking about it and it's something I just recently learned about. My buddy's BCM had almost zero shift with the AAC and my BCM 14.5" had about a 2 MOA shift with a Halo, which isn't that bad. One of my KAC's had about a 4 MOA shift while my SCAR L had little shift with a Gemtech G5 and it has a pencil barrel.

That's the reason I decided on the Surefire for this one. It has very little shift and also I prefer their flash hider over the AAC blackout.

Oh, don't quote me on this one, but if I remember this correctly there's something about the Surefire's muzzle device that is more tolerant to the threads as well as the barrel's concentricity (sp? If it's even a word?).

I'm not arguing about it in any way, just find it interesting. Sorry for the drift...

For a 553 or EXPS?

Got my EXPS3-0 from sportoptics.com. Think it was $521 shipped. Good people.

I bought both my 553 and 3x from sportoptics.com

They are local, I like to support local

I'm going to have a go at building one of these with what I have kicking around my house but I'm wondering if there is anything else I need aside from the list below

Equipment I have:

Colt LE6920
DD omega rail 7.0
Elcan Spectre DR 5.56 1-4X
Surefire X300 with SR07 pressure pad
LMT sopmod stock


That's where I am right now, any recommendations and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I'll probably start putting it together later this week.

553

Here's the newest setup... I kind of like it.

Any reason you don't want the EXPS. If I give EoTechs another try, it'll be the EXPS and the magnifier.

Ebay and the EE.

Exps isn't the one used on block ii

Apparently some are fielded and word from EoTech at Shot was that the EXPS is replacing the 553 as standard issue for SOCOM. Sending you a PM.

So, just to be clear, the EXPS is apparently replacing the 553.

Anyone have a picture of one with a 215A on it yet?

anyone in need of a surefire 556 212A? Mine is about to come off my rifle as soon as my AAC mount arrives

Is SOCOM still using the 7 MoA Docter RDS on top of the Elcan Specter DR? I have noticed they are getting harder to come by.

Insight won a contract for their MRD to replace the Docter.

Here's how mine ended up.  I know it's not a good clone but I like this better.

- Colt LE6920HB cut to 14.7", A2 pinned & welded

- DD fixed front sight

- X300

- Troy flip up rear (round aperture)

- Blue Force front sling mount, Vickers sling, QD rear

I think it's close enough in and that you haven't made any mods that aren't "user level," otherwise, that thing's sexy as hell!  

Glad to see someone else using the right barrel profile, too.  

~Augee

That looks slick... I'd like to run it next to my BCM 14.5" mid length. PM me and maybe we'll Ty to get together this week or next. I really like the Comp M4 and wish I wouldn't have sold mine. I have a DD front and may run that light set up on one of my other rifles or maybe even my mk18 since I'm limited in rail space compared to the 12" RIS II.

Do you always remit without rail covers?

Looks great!

I'm gonna be gone this weekend (Redback 1 class ).

Gut I'll be around next weekend.

I've never tried using rail covers.

Any pictures of these in the field?

You suck! Enjoy the class and let's try to get together soon.

I'd suggest taking some covers with you to the class, even if it's just the ladder style covers that came with the rail. You'll be putting a handful of rounds through your rifles at that class and may be subject to the rail heating up a little more than normal. Not that it's going to scorch your skin by any means, but after a couple days of it, it can get annoying. Of course gloves help to, but that's not always the best choice depending on the weather. I go for a few months without wearing gloves with he extreme heat of South Texas!

I haven't been to one of his classes yet and that's one of the next on my list. Post an AAR when you're back if you have time.

i'll be seeing you this weekend then, i'll be sure to keep an eye out for your rifle lol.

Did any black xps 2 in black  get issued overseas ? I can get those for great prices....but the fucking xps 3 are hard to find in tan...

I found a new EXPS3 in tan for $500, including shipping, on ebay.  I was watching for quite a while before I found this one though.  I also purchased everything needed for the upper build from BCM.  Now they have 14.5 mid-length with RIS in stock....

It'll be there but I'm still kinda embarrassed to pull out a brand new lookin' gun!

I'll prolly start out with my 'ol spray painted M4gery.  It wears a RAS and Krylon

It's ok both my rifles look like that too, even though one of them has been through 2 classes

This thread NEEDS MORE PICS.... I would also like to see some early Block II'S!!!

I'm too cowardly to paint my own guns, and OCD. I try to make everything evened out which defeats the point of camouflage to begin with.

I'm having a had time too with painting mine. I'm thinking the SCAR H is up first since mine is black. We go hog hunting on a couple thousand acres here and we usually hunt at night as well. I'm sure you know this very well, but even on guns with a ton of FDE, the receivers stand out like a sore thumb.

I am curious how the animals see this. Black is obviously the worst color, whether day or night especially under NODs and with an animal's enhanced low light vision does back stand out to them as well?

Safari land recently had a govt order for some multicam holsters and a few became available to the public, though I forget the model since I don't use them myself. This was on alightfighter, by the way. A few comments came up about black as a target indicator and I believe it was one of the guys from Safariland, though don't quote me on that, said that the team that requested the holsters were seeing a high number of hits in the area of their holsters and other small areas of black kit. Most of these shots were coming from a few hundred meters or more where the black holsters were the best POA. As crazy as it sounds, it makes sense from how much I've seen black stand out, especially under NODs as I'm sure you have as well.  So, from that perspective, it makes sense to cover up every bit of black that is on your person.

But, since these are personal rifles and unless we're taking our own uppers or rifles on contract, we won't suffer nearly as bad for not covering up the black. Just thought I'd point this out. I'm sure you're very aware of all of this, but a large number of people are not, so I figured I'd bring it up. I know most won't be going into battle with their private rifles, but I'm sure we have a lot of hunters here that want to blend in as much as possible or even some law enforcement that could benefit should their higher ups approve it.

In a way, I almost wish I would have stuck with that black RIS II so I'd be forced to paint it! I really like these FDE RIS II's and surprisingly the newness hasn't worn off yet. Though I've only had the 14.5" for a couple weeks, I've had my mk18 for much longer. I'm content right now with the way they're set up. My SCAR H on the other hand really needs some paint. My buddy Iraq Ninja is good friends with Paul Gardner, the Marine that's in a wheelchair, and we've been trying to get him out to the ranch for a while now. He's painted all of his rifles and does an awesome job, so I'm hoping to hit him up if he makes the next trip.

It's strange to have the light on the left side again. I have to reconfigure all of my rifles now after breaking the cable on my SR07. I finally gave in a little over a year ago to the cable switches and started running them full time after I felt they were good enough this time. I should have just stuck with what I knew worked, but lesson learned for now.

I apologize in advance for the crummy iPhone pics

I painted the receivers on my Block II, which blends perfectly with the FDE RIS II and SOPMOD but I think I'm gonna throw caution to the wind and paint my Mk12 this weekend.  I had it out at the range last weekend and something was just off.



 

I saw a pic in another thread of you and your rifle and the first thing I thought was this guy didnt want to paint his rail! As much as I hate to admit it, I'm the same way. This is the only forum where I'll admit that, by the way.

The mk12's look awesome painted and of all the rifles out there, that's the one that paint is most appropriate for...

I may just re-barrel one of my older, already Kryloned, "well loved" M4 uppers when I get my RIS II for a more "reset upgrade" clone look - with matching upper and lower and brand new FDE RIS II.  

That being said, one should never be afraid of rattle-canning!    It's so much fun, try it, just try it.  You know you want to.....

That's also why I go at the idea of people getting hit because of black Safariland holsters... you mean there are people that don't spray paint their Kydex?    I mean, that's even more low risk than painting rifles!  

jon -

About your remote switch woes - I'm with ya for a lot of reasons on that, though I think I've ended up in a different place than you.  

For starters, I prefer mounting my lights on the 3 o'clock rail (righty) because I don't like them rubbing up against me when the weapon is slung.  Also, though I don't own one personally, I always like to train as if I had a PEQ (the mentalitiy being that the most likely scenario in which a rifle will save my life, it will be an issued rifle with a PEQ) and the problem I've run into is that as much as I'd like to avoid tapeswitches and remote switches, they offer the best option for co-locating the PEQ control and illumination control when using a dual switch.  

I do, however prefer "dual controls" on my lights, whether the XM tailcap on Surefires or the push button backplate on the M3X.  The lack of a similar option on the Surefire Scout series was one of the things about them that made me leery - I also don't use the "three gun" rigid extended support arm stance, though.  

Incidentally, after losing my last M600 in a post-deployment shuffle and not feeling that bad because I wasn't using it, I've just traded out a barrel for two M600s that haven't been mounted yet, and I'm trying to decide how they're going to be used.  I've been looking at the Surefire dual switch option, but your experience reminded me of the fact that I'd lose push-button activation if I did that.  Might be back to the drawing board (and the EE ).  

We'll see - I think I'm still the only guy here with three "1.5 clones" and no M4 RIS II.    

My Block 2 CQBR is done, though!  

~Augee

Augee, I know the frustrations of the lights and lasers! With my scout lights offset on the left side rail and using a push button tail cap, I can run the PEQ 15 in my preferred location, out front, and use only the tape switch for the PEQ then run it above my vert grip in the space between the 9 o'clock and 12 o clock rails.

This way I'm not fooling with two switches whether it's a dual switch or two single switches. Either way, when running a laser, I loose constant on unless I'm using the standard tail cap.

I've been back and forth so many times on this. Like you mentioned, I used to hate my light on the 9 o'clock rail as it would rub against me. Moving my sling location at the rear to the right side of my stock and the front to the left side near the barrel nut, it pulls the stock tight to my chest whether I'm running slick or a carrier and pushes the muzzle out away from my body. If I were to just let it hang slightly snug but with enough slack that I could shoulder the rifle, I could easily walk full stride without any contact from the front of the rifle.  

I really want to try the new m720v on my right side with that models new switch between the 9 and 12 o'clock rails and when running the PEQ 15, run that without a switch or with the switch between the 3 and 6 o'clock rails like Jason Falla wrote about in his blog. I've done it this way with the PEQ 15 and scout and it was a great set up and the cables were niall neatly tucked away.

If you switch over to the RIS II, I think you'll find a number of new solutions. The extra 5" of rail makes quite a difference. Like mine is set upon the most recent pic, I can throw a PEQ 15 or DBAL on there in the front, behind the sight, and it all fits nice and snug. This didn't work as well with my URX II's or the Omega my buddy runs due to the thinner profile of the rails. The RIS II has a wider profile by a small amount and the right offset mount will tuck the scout light right up into the laser. Next time I have one on my rifle I'll try to remember to take some pics.

This set up has its down sides like all the others, of course! After all these years, I thought I had it figured out, then all of a sudden I'm back at square one. Oh well...

Hey now, some of us are required by our job to use all black gear; nothing wrong with a black 6004...

Honestly, I couldn't bring myself to paint the DD rail; it just looks so sexy in FDE with the coyote ladder covers giving it the two-tone effect.  But the Mk12 on the other hand... that bitch is BEGGING to get rattle-canned; shit, I might even start a "Paint your rifles" thread this Saturday...



 

I decided to sell my upper. Maybe after i get the stuff i originally wanted i'll build one of these as my first upper build.

How much did you get for yours?  I'm thinking about selling my DD M4 RIS II upper.

Any reason you guys are dumping yours?