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Link Posted: 12/18/2017 3:08:52 PM EDT
[#1]
Awesome! Thanks CD! Do you have any recommendations on sub contractors? Everything I'm seeing is still $60+ for the mk12 gas block.

Also, how common is the shaved down fsb on the modern Socom barreled guns? Is it like 20% still have them, or is it pretty rare to see newly converted guns get a shaved fsb?

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Originally Posted By Combat_Diver:

I get mine from subcontractors, not always DD.  Since its inside the RIS II no one will see it.  Just get a gas block that fits or shave your FSB down.
Real Block IIs being assembled.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_0595_M4A1_RIS_II.jpg
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_0608_attaching_DD_rail.jpg

Don't rebuild many right now as have a job box full of assembled and serial numbered 10.3" and 14.5" uppers from Crane.
CD
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Link Posted: 12/18/2017 4:30:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: henryfrank] [#2]
Is there a post going through the reasons why the RIS II has been changed and why it's gotten darker? Would really love to know even if the answer is "just cause".
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 4:32:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: henryfrank] [#3]
Are they starting to issue warcomps yet?
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 5:23:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MILSPEC556] [#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Awesome! Thanks CD! Do you have any recommendations on sub contractors? Everything I'm seeing is still $60+ for the mk12 gas block.

Also, how common is the shaved down fsb on the modern Socom barreled guns? Is it like 20% still have them, or is it pretty rare to see newly converted guns get a shaved fsb?

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Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Awesome! Thanks CD! Do you have any recommendations on sub contractors? Everything I'm seeing is still $60+ for the mk12 gas block.

Also, how common is the shaved down fsb on the modern Socom barreled guns? Is it like 20% still have them, or is it pretty rare to see newly converted guns get a shaved fsb?

Originally Posted By Combat_Diver:

I get mine from subcontractors, not always DD.  Since its inside the RIS II no one will see it.  Just get a gas block that fits or shave your FSB down.
Real Block IIs being assembled.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_0595_M4A1_RIS_II.jpg
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_0608_attaching_DD_rail.jpg

Don't rebuild many right now as have a job box full of assembled and serial numbered 10.3" and 14.5" uppers from Crane.
CD
You could go with the uberest mostest cortectest Badger Ordnance Mk12 gb. My personal fav.

Also, none are shaved down on SOCOM guns as far as I'm aware. Its always been either the Mk12 gas block under a continuous RIS II, or the standard unshaved FSB with the RIS II FSP.

Pretty sure he was speaking on doing it from a convenience for you standpoint. Not to mention a shaved down/taper pinned FSB would be the most robust option by far
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 6:09:44 PM EDT
[#5]
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Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Is there a post going through the reasons why the RIS II has been changed and why it's gotten darker? Would really love to know even if the answer is "just cause".
View Quote
The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 6:27:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MILSPEC556] [#6]
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Originally Posted By pezboytate:
The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
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Originally Posted By pezboytate:
Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Is there a post going through the reasons why the RIS II has been changed and why it's gotten darker? Would really love to know even if the answer is "just cause".
The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
I think it was done because of their slow mo free float barrel whip research/videos. As you know, no RIS II indexes concentrically to the barrel. (I always assumed from the bolt-up plate) even when star pattern torqued every which way.  I've had some get close enough to rightfully  worry about barrel whip contacting the rail, which would kill me inside lol.

Anyways I figured this was the reason. And I think its an upgrade because of this either way.

Cool on the leaf sight thing, I'm glad they listened.
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 6:57:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#7]
Originally Posted By JJREA:

Just to piggyback on what you're saying about not cleaning.  If you don't clean a spot where there is oil, the paint takes a lot longer to set or might not....   I didn't clean my stocks the last time I painted them and where my face goes on it, it was tacky for a long time.  It never really set.  The oils from my face did that.  And then eventually I put a piece of tape on that spot for a few days and pulled it off and the tacky paint came with it.  So it never really adhered because of the oils.

I have been just cleaning with a disinfectant wipe because they were handy in the kitchen.  That seems to work the other times I painted my stocks.  I had just forgot to last time and above were my results of forgetting.
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Gotcha. I knew the paint wouldn't stick to any oil left on the gun, but I forgot about the stock. Good point.

Originally Posted By Combat_Diver:

3/4 way down on pg 936 see my post, new barrels

Mk18

CD
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Awesome. Thanks, man.
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 7:02:10 PM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Awesome! Thanks CD! Do you have any recommendations on sub contractors? Everything I'm seeing is still $60+ for the mk12 gas block.

Also, how common is the shaved down fsb on the modern Socom barreled guns? Is it like 20% still have them, or is it pretty rare to see newly converted guns get a shaved fsb?
View Quote
Just use any low profile gas block that fits. Otherwise, try the KAC or Badger Ordnance blocks like I mentioned on the last page.

Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

You could go with the uberest mostest cortectest Badger Ordnance Mk12 gb. My personal fav.

Also, none are shaved down on SOCOM guns as far as I'm aware. Its always been either the Mk12 gas block under a continuous RIS II, or the standard unshaved FSB with the RIS II FSP.

Pretty sure he was speaking on doing it from a convenience for you standpoint. Not to mention a shaved down/taper pinned FSB would be the most robust option by far
View Quote
This. If you already have a FSB, shave it. This will be absolutely bomb-proof.

Originally Posted By pezboytate:

The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
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Love the additional info on the variations of rails. Thank you, sir.
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 7:06:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#9]
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I think it was done because of their slow mo free float barrel whip research/videos. As you know, no RIS II indexes concentrically to the barrel. (I always assumed from the bolt-up plate) even when star pattern torqued every which way.  I've had some get close enough to rightfully  worry about barrel whip contacting the rail, which would kill me inside lol.

Anyways I figured this was the reason. And I think its an upgrade because of this either way.

Cool on the leaf sight thing, I'm glad they listened.
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By pezboytate:
Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Is there a post going through the reasons why the RIS II has been changed and why it's gotten darker? Would really love to know even if the answer is "just cause".
The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
I think it was done because of their slow mo free float barrel whip research/videos. As you know, no RIS II indexes concentrically to the barrel. (I always assumed from the bolt-up plate) even when star pattern torqued every which way.  I've had some get close enough to rightfully  worry about barrel whip contacting the rail, which would kill me inside lol.

Anyways I figured this was the reason. And I think its an upgrade because of this either way.

Cool on the leaf sight thing, I'm glad they listened.
You really think the face of the rail was opened up because of barrel whip? Possible, I guess. I've seen slow-mo videos of free-floated AR's exhibiting some whip, but I'm not sure it's enough to contact the rail, even on the older ones with the smaller inside diameter.

I'm guessing they opened it up to save some weight at the end of the rail after having to do away with the lightening holes at the end of the bottom rail. Same with the lengthened cut on the inside of the top rail, additional weight savings. After removing the lightening holes they added these two measures to bring the weight back into line with where it was with the holes. Just my guess...
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 7:15:53 PM EDT
[#10]
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
You really think the face of the rail was opened up because of barrel whip? Possible, I guess. I've seen slow-mo videos of free-floated AR's exhibiting some whip, but I'm not sure it's enough to contact the rail, even on the older ones with the smaller inside diameter.

I'm guessing they opened it up to save some weight at the end of the rail after having to do away with the lightening holes at the end of the bottom rail. Same with the lengthened cut on the inside of the top rail, additional weight savings. After removing the lightening holes they added these two measures to bring the weight back into line with where it was with the holes. Just my guess...
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By pezboytate:
Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Is there a post going through the reasons why the RIS II has been changed and why it's gotten darker? Would really love to know even if the answer is "just cause".
The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
I think it was done because of their slow mo free float barrel whip research/videos. As you know, no RIS II indexes concentrically to the barrel. (I always assumed from the bolt-up plate) even when star pattern torqued every which way.  I've had some get close enough to rightfully  worry about barrel whip contacting the rail, which would kill me inside lol.

Anyways I figured this was the reason. And I think its an upgrade because of this either way.

Cool on the leaf sight thing, I'm glad they listened.
You really think the face of the rail was opened up because of barrel whip? Possible, I guess. I've seen slow-mo videos of free-floated AR's exhibiting some whip, but I'm not sure it's enough to contact the rail, even on the older ones with the smaller inside diameter.

I'm guessing they opened it up to save some weight at the end of the rail after having to do away with the lightening holes at the end of the bottom rail. Same with the lengthened cut on the inside of the top rail, additional weight savings. After removing the lightening holes they added these two measures to bring the weight back into line with where it was with the holes. Just my guess...
That is a possibility of course, as it was excess material. But I do know DD made a big deal of their slow mo barrel whip research videos, so between that, my repeating possible issue, and the opening up of the front end that's how it linked up in my head.

Even if it was for weight savings, I still see it as a pro for barrel whip regardless. Its pretty amazing to watch how far these things flex on the slow mo cam
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 7:29:34 PM EDT
[#11]
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
That is a possibility of course, as it was excess material. But I do know DD made a big deal of their slow mo barrel whip research videos, so between that, my repeating possible issue, and the opening up of the front end that's how it linked up in my head.

Even if it was for weight savings, I still see it as a pro for barrel whip regardless. Its pretty amazing to watch how far these things flex on the slow mo cam
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By pezboytate:
Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Is there a post going through the reasons why the RIS II has been changed and why it's gotten darker? Would really love to know even if the answer is "just cause".
The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
I think it was done because of their slow mo free float barrel whip research/videos. As you know, no RIS II indexes concentrically to the barrel. (I always assumed from the bolt-up plate) even when star pattern torqued every which way.  I've had some get close enough to rightfully  worry about barrel whip contacting the rail, which would kill me inside lol.

Anyways I figured this was the reason. And I think its an upgrade because of this either way.

Cool on the leaf sight thing, I'm glad they listened.
You really think the face of the rail was opened up because of barrel whip? Possible, I guess. I've seen slow-mo videos of free-floated AR's exhibiting some whip, but I'm not sure it's enough to contact the rail, even on the older ones with the smaller inside diameter.

I'm guessing they opened it up to save some weight at the end of the rail after having to do away with the lightening holes at the end of the bottom rail. Same with the lengthened cut on the inside of the top rail, additional weight savings. After removing the lightening holes they added these two measures to bring the weight back into line with where it was with the holes. Just my guess...
That is a possibility of course, as it was excess material. But I do know DD made a big deal of their slow mo barrel whip research videos, so between that, my repeating possible issue, and the opening up of the front end that's how it linked up in my head.

Even if it was for weight savings, I still see it as a pro for barrel whip regardless. Its pretty amazing to watch how far these things flex on the slow mo cam
One thing to note is that the lightening holes were removed in 2012 or 2013 yet the hole in the front wasn't enlarged until 2015 or 2016.

I wouldn't guess it was for weight since it is such a small difference. Maybe it was more clearance for barrel whip, but it was changed years after the DD slow motion video was released. Maybe it was for clearance with muzzle devices, suppressors, etc.. Maybe it was changed for production reasons.
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 7:56:14 PM EDT
[#12]
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Originally Posted By pezboytate:
One thing to note is that the lightening holes were removed in 2012 or 2013 yet the hole in the front wasn't enlarged until 2015 or 2016.

I wouldn't guess it was for weight since it is such a small difference. Maybe it was more clearance for barrel whip, but it was changed years after the DD slow motion video was released. Maybe it was for clearance with muzzle devices, suppressors, etc.. Maybe it was changed for production reasons.
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Originally Posted By pezboytate:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By pezboytate:
Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Is there a post going through the reasons why the RIS II has been changed and why it's gotten darker? Would really love to know even if the answer is "just cause".
The removal of the lightening holes were done to strengthen the rail after there were instances of bending it with bipod use. The screws probably changed color because of a different vendor. The M203 leaf sight mounting screw hole was changed after I brought it to Daniel Defense's attention that it was the wrong thread pitch. The cutout on the inside probably removed more material to reduce weight. I don't know why the color is darker now than it used to be, maybe because a different place or person is anodizing them. I don't know why the hole in the end was enlarged.
I think it was done because of their slow mo free float barrel whip research/videos. As you know, no RIS II indexes concentrically to the barrel. (I always assumed from the bolt-up plate) even when star pattern torqued every which way.  I've had some get close enough to rightfully  worry about barrel whip contacting the rail, which would kill me inside lol.

Anyways I figured this was the reason. And I think its an upgrade because of this either way.

Cool on the leaf sight thing, I'm glad they listened.
You really think the face of the rail was opened up because of barrel whip? Possible, I guess. I've seen slow-mo videos of free-floated AR's exhibiting some whip, but I'm not sure it's enough to contact the rail, even on the older ones with the smaller inside diameter.

I'm guessing they opened it up to save some weight at the end of the rail after having to do away with the lightening holes at the end of the bottom rail. Same with the lengthened cut on the inside of the top rail, additional weight savings. After removing the lightening holes they added these two measures to bring the weight back into line with where it was with the holes. Just my guess...
That is a possibility of course, as it was excess material. But I do know DD made a big deal of their slow mo barrel whip research videos, so between that, my repeating possible issue, and the opening up of the front end that's how it linked up in my head.

Even if it was for weight savings, I still see it as a pro for barrel whip regardless. Its pretty amazing to watch how far these things flex on the slow mo cam
One thing to note is that the lightening holes were removed in 2012 or 2013 yet the hole in the front wasn't enlarged until 2015 or 2016.

I wouldn't guess it was for weight since it is such a small difference. Maybe it was more clearance for barrel whip, but it was changed years after the DD slow motion video was released. Maybe it was for clearance with muzzle devices, suppressors, etc.. Maybe it was changed for production reasons.
These make even more sense than the barrel whip thing. Never even crossed my mind. Lol

Possibly for cans who's latch protrudes further aft, the flaming pig comes to mind, but I think I've seen maybe 1 or 2 on a gov rifle, so I wouldn't think they'd do it just for that one.

Production reasons is also a huge possibility. New jig change possibly. I should hit up Caroline B and see if she can find out for us
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 10:42:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#13]
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

That is a possibility of course, as it was excess material. But I do know DD made a big deal of their slow mo barrel whip research videos, so between that, my repeating possible issue, and the opening up of the front end that's how it linked up in my head.

Even if it was for weight savings, I still see it as a pro for barrel whip regardless. Its pretty amazing to watch how far these things flex on the slow mo cam
View Quote
Gotcha. I'd bet if your barrel was contacting your rail during firing you'd feel it as it impacts each time, or you'd see marks on the barrel and/or rail where it makes contact with each shot. If it was hitting it hard enough, you'd probably feel some reverberation down through the rail or maybe even as a dull "thud".

Originally Posted By pezboytate:

One thing to note is that the lightening holes were removed in 2012 or 2013 yet the hole in the front wasn't enlarged until 2015 or 2016.

I wouldn't guess it was for weight since it is such a small difference. Maybe it was more clearance for barrel whip, but it was changed years after the DD slow motion video was released. Maybe it was for clearance with muzzle devices, suppressors, etc.. Maybe it was changed for production reasons.
View Quote
It is a small difference, but look at the elongated cut on the inside of the top rail. If that was added for weight savings like we've speculated, it sure wouldn't amount to much. I think clearance or production reason(s) seems most logical, at least in my non expert opinion.
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 10:48:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#14]
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

These make even more sense than the barrel whip thing. Never even crossed my mind. Lol

Possibly for cans who's latch protrudes further aft, the flaming pig comes to mind, but I think I've seen maybe 1 or 2 on a gov rifle, so I wouldn't think they'd do it just for that one.

Production reasons is also a huge possibility. New jig change possibly. I should hit up Caroline B and see if she can find out for us
View Quote
Does she work there anymore? I swear it was her I emailed a couple weeks ago and some guy named Chris answered and said she wasn't there any longer. Maybe it wasn't her I emailed, though. I got her contact info either from this thread or DD's industry forum. Can't remember which.

I needed some replacement RIS II screws and plastic washers, which he was cool enough to send out free of charge the next day. I was hoping for the old grey colored screws, but I wasn't so lucky. Maybe if I would have specifically asked for them, but beggars can't be choosers. They're probably long gone by now, anyway.
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 11:16:15 PM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 11:51:36 PM EDT
[#16]
How did that SF warden sneak in there
Link Posted: 12/18/2017 11:52:32 PM EDT
[#17]
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Originally Posted By AmericanCheese:
How did that SF warden sneak in there
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Form 4 :(
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 12:08:58 AM EDT
[#18]
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Originally Posted By ankratz:

Form 4 :(
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It’s all good...I have one too on my aids infested AR pistol, and they actually work pretty well.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 12:25:24 AM EDT
[#19]
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Originally Posted By henryfrank:
Awesome! Thanks CD! Do you have any recommendations on sub contractors? Everything I'm seeing is still $60+ for the mk12 gas block.

Also, how common is the shaved down fsb on the modern Socom barreled guns? Is it like 20% still have them, or is it pretty rare to see newly converted guns get a shaved fsb?
View Quote
Milspec, answered it.  There are 0% shaved down FSB in the system that I know of.  Just not authorized.  I was speaking toward your convienice.   Any low profile gas block that looks like the DD/KAC will do the job.  Think Primary Arms just had them on sale, also check PSA.

CD
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 11:25:27 AM EDT
[#20]
is the vtac 2 point padded sling clone correct for a sopmod block ii fsp?
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 11:47:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#21]
@ankratz

Nice tan SF collection. I love them.

Here's a question that you may or may not know the answer to off the top of your head. What's the best Cerakote color to match KAC's taupe? I've got some black KAC panels I wanna spray instead of spending $25+ each for new ones, plus they don't offer taupe in the size I'm looking for, so I'd have to buy long ones and cut them down/reprofile the ends. Just thought I might get lucky and find an easy answer since I don't currently have any taupe Knight's parts laying around to test against aside from a couple front sights that aren't the exact shade I'm after.

Originally Posted By cranky1:
is the vtac 2 point padded sling clone correct for a sopmod block ii fsp?
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Aren't slings one of those things that are user preference? I feel like I've seen a bunch of different slings in use.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 12:18:00 PM EDT
[#22]
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
@ankratz

Nice tan SF collection. I love them.

Here's a question that you may or may not know the answer to off the top of your head. What's the best Cerakote color to match KAC's taupe? I've got some black KAC panels I wanna spray instead of spending $25+ each for new ones, plus they don't offer taupe in the size I'm looking for, so I'd have to buy long ones and cut them down/reprofile the ends. Just thought I might get lucky and find an easy answer since I don't currently have any taupe Knight's parts laying around to test against aside from a couple front sights that aren't the exact shade I'm after.

Aren't slings one of those things that are user preference? I feel like I've seen a bunch of different slings in use.
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
@ankratz

Nice tan SF collection. I love them.

Here's a question that you may or may not know the answer to off the top of your head. What's the best Cerakote color to match KAC's taupe? I've got some black KAC panels I wanna spray instead of spending $25+ each for new ones, plus they don't offer taupe in the size I'm looking for, so I'd have to buy long ones and cut them down/reprofile the ends. Just thought I might get lucky and find an easy answer since I don't currently have any taupe Knight's parts laying around to test against aside from a couple front sights that aren't the exact shade I'm after.

Originally Posted By cranky1:
is the vtac 2 point padded sling clone correct for a sopmod block ii fsp?
Aren't slings one of those things that are user preference? I feel like I've seen a bunch of different slings in use.
Use Aervoe Field Drab. It's a dead nuts match for taupe. It's not Cerakote but the shit is very tough, a lot more than Krylon. It works best if you spray it on warm parts and let it dry under some heat. I've just pointed a space heater at it and the results were great.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 1:09:14 PM EDT
[#23]
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Use Aervoe Field Drab. It's a dead nuts match for taupe. It's not Cerakote but the shit is very tough, a lot more than Krylon. It works best if you spray it on warm parts and let it dry under some heat. I've just pointed a space heater at it and the results were great.
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
@ankratz

Nice tan SF collection. I love them.

Here's a question that you may or may not know the answer to off the top of your head. What's the best Cerakote color to match KAC's taupe? I've got some black KAC panels I wanna spray instead of spending $25+ each for new ones, plus they don't offer taupe in the size I'm looking for, so I'd have to buy long ones and cut them down/reprofile the ends. Just thought I might get lucky and find an easy answer since I don't currently have any taupe Knight's parts laying around to test against aside from a couple front sights that aren't the exact shade I'm after.

Originally Posted By cranky1:
is the vtac 2 point padded sling clone correct for a sopmod block ii fsp?
Aren't slings one of those things that are user preference? I feel like I've seen a bunch of different slings in use.
Use Aervoe Field Drab. It's a dead nuts match for taupe. It's not Cerakote but the shit is very tough, a lot more than Krylon. It works best if you spray it on warm parts and let it dry under some heat. I've just pointed a space heater at it and the results were great.
This ^^

Aervoe FD is a damn near perfect match. I've been working on an air cure recipe with intent to coat a whole bunch and sell them for more economical prices, and I just can't nail down the orange tone.

That said, my Aervoe FD coated ones have been holding up great. Just make sure you give them a quick soak in acetone to clean the surface. Upon spraying several light coats and letting it dry fully, you can put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 170 degrees for 15 minutes and it will help cure it even better.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 2:00:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#24]
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:

Use Aervoe Field Drab. It's a dead nuts match for taupe. It's not Cerakote but the shit is very tough, a lot more than Krylon. It works best if you spray it on warm parts and let it dry under some heat. I've just pointed a space heater at it and the results were great.
View Quote
Originally Posted By ankratz:

This ^^

Aervoe FD is a damn near perfect match. I've been working on an air cure recipe with intent to coat a whole bunch and sell them for more economical prices, and I just can't nail down the orange tone.

That said, my Aervoe FD coated ones have been holding up great. Just make sure you give them a quick soak in acetone to clean the surface. Upon spraying several light coats and letting it dry fully, you can put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 170 degrees for 15 minutes and it will help cure it even better.
View Quote
Sweet. Thanks, guys.

I'm aware of the Aervoe Field Drab, but I've never used any Aervoe paints so I just figured I'd coat them since I'm spraying three days a week already. And the orange tint is exactly what had me thinking it'd be a pain to color match. I'll order some now. Any tips on where to order from?

ankratz, are the panels that are in your above pic factory taupe or painted? The ones in the flashlight pic.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 2:24:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:

Sweet. Thanks, guys.

I'm aware of the Aervoe Field Drab, but I've never used any Aervoe paints so I just figured I'd coat them since I'm spraying three days a week already. And the orange tint is exactly what had me thinking it'd be a pain to color match. I'll order some now. Any tips on where to order from?

@ankratz, are the panels that are in your above pic factory taupe or painted? The ones in the flashlight pic.
View Quote
DSG was OOS the last time I checked for Field Drab, but they're usually a good resource. I ordered some last from Brownells.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 2:26:43 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DontBuryMe:
DSG was OOS the last time I checked for Field Drab, but they're usually a good resource. I ordered some last from Brownells.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DontBuryMe:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:

Sweet. Thanks, guys.

I'm aware of the Aervoe Field Drab, but I've never used any Aervoe paints so I just figured I'd coat them since I'm spraying three days a week already. And the orange tint is exactly what had me thinking it'd be a pain to color match. I'll order some now. Any tips on where to order from?

@ankratz, are the panels that are in your above pic factory taupe or painted? The ones in the flashlight pic.
DSG was OOS the last time I checked for Field Drab, but they're usually a good resource. I ordered some last from Brownells.
Cool, thanks. Grabbing a can from Brownell's now if DSG is out.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 2:34:26 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:

Cool, thanks. Grabbing a can from Brownell's now if DSG is out.
View Quote
Looks like DSG restocked since I ordered last.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 2:54:41 PM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DontBuryMe:
Looks like DSG restocked since I ordered last.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DontBuryMe:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:

Cool, thanks. Grabbing a can from Brownell's now if DSG is out.
Looks like DSG restocked since I ordered last.
Yup. Got it coming.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 3:44:31 PM EDT
[#29]
@Combat_Diver

In your experience have you ever had to modify the inner diameter of a Mk12 gas block for proper fitment? I'm currently dealing with two separate Daniel Defense gas blocks that absolutely refuse to fit over two separate Colt 14.5 government barrels. In fact they're both currently stuck half-way and don't want to budge on or off. Never had this problem with the Badger gas block used previously. I'd really appreciate any installation tips or general advice you can share, thanks.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 3:49:21 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kalmar:
@Combat_Diver

In your experience have you ever had to modify the inner diameter of a Mk12 gas block for proper fitment? I'm currently dealing with two separate Daniel Defense gas blocks that absolutely refuse to fit over two separate Colt 14.5 government barrels. In fact they're both currently stuck half-way and don't want to budge on or off. Never had this problem with the Badger gas block used previously. I'd really appreciate any installation tips or general advice you can share, thanks.
View Quote
Those blocks are too tight. I had the same issue with a Mk12 barrel and ended up dremeling it off. The suggestions to me were heat the block but not the barrel, or get a wooden dowel with sand paper and open the block up.

So with all of that being said, get them off and get the Badger Ordnance block. I don't think CD gets DD blocks BTW, some other govt contractor.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 3:55:15 PM EDT
[#31]
The Badger block I just used to build my CQBR was stupid tight. I had to heat it with a torch for about a minute before it would slide on.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 4:06:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Combat_Diver] [#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kalmar:
@Combat_Diver

In your experience have you ever had to modify the inner diameter of a Mk12 gas block for proper fitment? I'm currently dealing with two separate Daniel Defense gas blocks that absolutely refuse to fit over two separate Colt 14.5 government barrels. In fact they're both currently stuck half-way and don't want to budge on or off. Never had this problem with the Badger gas block used previously. I'd really appreciate any installation tips or general advice you can share, thanks.
View Quote
No, never had any issue with our gas blocks going on.  As mentioned I haven't received any DD even thou they are a contractor.  I get some other manufactuer that isn't available on the commerical market that I know of (some small shop in NJ/NY).  Only issue I've ever had with a GB was gas port/gas pin hole were in wrong spot once.  I use a large brass rod and hammer when they are stuck (getting used ones off)  Good luck getting them off.

CD
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 4:12:24 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:

Yup. Got it coming.
View Quote
Good choice. Here's a comparison of a BCM grip I painted with Field Drab vs a KAC Taupe A2.

Link Posted: 12/19/2017 7:27:11 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Sweet. Thanks, guys.

I'm aware of the Aervoe Field Drab, but I've never used any Aervoe paints so I just figured I'd coat them since I'm spraying three days a week already. And the orange tint is exactly what had me thinking it'd be a pain to color match. I'll order some now. Any tips on where to order from?

ankratz, are the panels that are in your above pic factory taupe or painted? The ones in the flashlight pic.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:

Use Aervoe Field Drab. It's a dead nuts match for taupe. It's not Cerakote but the shit is very tough, a lot more than Krylon. It works best if you spray it on warm parts and let it dry under some heat. I've just pointed a space heater at it and the results were great.
Originally Posted By ankratz:

This ^^

Aervoe FD is a damn near perfect match. I've been working on an air cure recipe with intent to coat a whole bunch and sell them for more economical prices, and I just can't nail down the orange tone.

That said, my Aervoe FD coated ones have been holding up great. Just make sure you give them a quick soak in acetone to clean the surface. Upon spraying several light coats and letting it dry fully, you can put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 170 degrees for 15 minutes and it will help cure it even better.
Sweet. Thanks, guys.

I'm aware of the Aervoe Field Drab, but I've never used any Aervoe paints so I just figured I'd coat them since I'm spraying three days a week already. And the orange tint is exactly what had me thinking it'd be a pain to color match. I'll order some now. Any tips on where to order from?

ankratz, are the panels that are in your above pic factory taupe or painted? The ones in the flashlight pic.

These panels are factory taupe. In the pic, they look lighter, but I think that's just from the surface texture. In person, you can't tell a difference. It's been painted for close to 4 years now and I don't think I have a single spot where it's worn off. It's not a super high-use rifle though.
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 7:43:51 PM EDT
[#35]
@871JZ those are factory taupe. I'll see if I can dig up an Aervoe one next to them for comparison. Go for it though, you won't be disappointed with the results.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 10:08:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#36]
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
The Badger block I just used to build my CQBR was stupid tight. I had to heat it with a torch for about a minute before it would slide on.
View Quote
This seems crazy, but this is actually about the best fit you can achieve with a low profile gas block. Where the inside diameter fits so tight on the barrel that it needs to be heated to slide down and into position. It will cut down on gas leakage between the block and barrel and also make it damn near as bomb-proof as a pinned block since it's an interference fit at that point. Along with the two set screws, you'll never have to worry about the block moving.

Originally Posted By DontBuryMe:

Good choice. Here's a comparison of a BCM grip I painted with Field Drab vs a KAC Taupe A2.

https://imgur.com/QCwCLHG.jpg
View Quote
Awesome. Thanks for the comparison pic. Looks great, but it also looks much lighter than I'm used to seeing with field drab. Missing the orange tone, but it might just be the pic. Looks great either way, though.

Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:

These panels are factory taupe. In the pic, they look lighter, but I think that's just from the surface texture. In person, you can't tell a difference. It's been painted for close to 4 years now and I don't think I have a single spot where it's worn off. It's not a super high-use rifle though.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/204916/7DDAEB34-958C-4F97-89AF-D75B66DA068A-31603-00002975F888E960-395449.JPG
View Quote
Beautiful dissipator and I appreciate the pic. Helps give me an idea of what to expect once the paint gets here. Also makes me miss my old BCM dissipator uppers.

ETA: After looking at your pic again, I just noticed something. You're not afraid of installing trigger guard roll pins, are you?

Since we're on the topic of KAC panels, I decided I wanted to ditch the DD rail covers I've been using on the Block II. They were the fugly tan ones that come with the RIS II's. I wanted to swap them out for some KAC panels I had, but I only have 11 rib panels. The one 11 rib was the perfect length for use with my VFG and grip position on the 9:00 rail, but the second 11 rib was way too long to install on the 6:00 rail in front of the VFG, so I trimmed it down into a 6 rib panel. Now it fits perfectly from the face of the VFG to the end of the rail. Both panels lock in nicely, just as they should and are much better than the DD covers, IMO.

Pic of the shortened, now 6 rib panel, next to the factory 11 rib:



Pic of them installed:

Link Posted: 12/19/2017 10:10:59 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ankratz:
@871JZ those are factory taupe. I'll see if I can dig up an Aervoe one next to them for comparison. Go for it though, you won't be disappointed with the results.
View Quote
Gotcha. They look great against the FDE RIS II. Might spray these two in the above pic with the field drab once it comes in. That, or just mod another one and spray two new ones since these two are so chewed up.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 10:23:26 PM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:

Beautiful dissipator and I appreciate the pic. Helps give me an idea of what to expect once the paint gets here. Also makes me miss my old BCM dissipator uppers.

ETA: After looking at your pic again, I just noticed something. You're not afraid of installing trigger guard roll pins, are you?
View Quote
Dissy's are my most favorite non-clone setup. I've currently got 3.

I only did the trigger guards that way because it was the "thing" to do back then. I've never broken one, but I do like the ability to remove, it should I need it, without having to resort to hammer and punch.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 10:26:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Dissy's are my most favorite non-clone setup. I've currently got 3.

I only did the trigger guards that way because it was the "thing" to do back then. I've never broken one, but I do like the ability to remove, it should I need it, without having to resort to hammer and punch.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:

Beautiful dissipator and I appreciate the pic. Helps give me an idea of what to expect once the paint gets here. Also makes me miss my old BCM dissipator uppers.

ETA: After looking at your pic again, I just noticed something. You're not afraid of installing trigger guard roll pins, are you?
Dissy's are my most favorite non-clone setup. I've currently got 3.

I only did the trigger guards that way because it was the "thing" to do back then. I've never broken one, but I do like the ability to remove, it should I need it, without having to resort to hammer and punch.
I'm just messing with you. I can't stand those bolt on trigger guards for some reason, though. Lol

And I love dissipator's, too, particularly rifle gas versus the midlength versions. I've had a couple that I built from 20" BCM barrels, but I've since sold them both. Everytime I see one, I regret it. Probably why I purposely avoid the dissy thread we've got around here somewhere.
Link Posted: 12/19/2017 11:13:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#40]
I never knew DD offered an FDE Lite Rail? Was this actually an offering at some point, or was it a prototype sent out years ago for testing, maybe? These pics were taken from a post back in 2010.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/industry/BAR_compared_to_Lite_Rail/282-191385/





It's tough to make out, but it does say AR15 Lite Rail 12.0, just like my old 12" Lite Rail II did.



I guess they did. Here's a better pic I found on Google. Looks like these were available for a short period of time. I never knew this.

Link Posted: 12/20/2017 1:27:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ankratz] [#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
I never knew DD offered an FDE Lite Rail? Was this actually an offering at some point, or was it a prototype sent out years ago for testing, maybe? These pics were taken from a post back in 2010.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/industry/BAR_compared_to_Lite_Rail/282-191385/

https://s10.postimg.org/50r1iyy3d/three-rails-compaired01.jpg

https://s10.postimg.org/jl84d8nqx/Literail-_XTM-measure01.jpg

It's tough to make out, but it does say AR15 Lite Rail 12.0, just like my old 12" Lite Rail II did.

https://s10.postimg.org/lpsheex49/20171219_221238.png

I guess they did. Here's a better pic I found on Google. Looks like these were available for a short period of time. I never knew this.

https://s10.postimg.org/emklyzubd/2850349_03_daniel_defense_lite_rail_12_0_640.jpg
View Quote
They were a production rail. That Armslist pic is actually my listing from back in the day :)
I should have never sold it.

It was definitely lighter, and more bronze then the RIS II rails which were a bronze/brown.
(The new RIS II rails are "bleh" IMO. Dull, flat brown with no character to them)

Attachment Attached File

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Link Posted: 12/20/2017 1:37:00 AM EDT
[#42]
You have RIS II's ankles, LITE rails are the devil.

I do also miss the old RIS II FDE tho, used to be much more chocolatey, now its pretty dull. Still better than black tho I suppose
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 1:47:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ankratz:
They were a production rail. That Armslist pic is actually my listing from back in the day :)
I should have never sold it.

It was definitely lighter, and more bronze then the RIS II rails which were a bronze/brown.
(The new RIS II rails are "bleh" IMO. Dull, flat brown with no character to them)

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/BCM001_zps6a48fcad-395701.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/001-395707.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/002-395708.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/004-395709.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/003-395710.JPG
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ankratz:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
I never knew DD offered an FDE Lite Rail? Was this actually an offering at some point, or was it a prototype sent out years ago for testing, maybe? These pics were taken from a post back in 2010.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/industry/BAR_compared_to_Lite_Rail/282-191385/

https://s10.postimg.org/50r1iyy3d/three-rails-compaired01.jpg

https://s10.postimg.org/jl84d8nqx/Literail-_XTM-measure01.jpg

It's tough to make out, but it does say AR15 Lite Rail 12.0, just like my old 12" Lite Rail II did.

https://s10.postimg.org/lpsheex49/20171219_221238.png

I guess they did. Here's a better pic I found on Google. Looks like these were available for a short period of time. I never knew this.

https://s10.postimg.org/emklyzubd/2850349_03_daniel_defense_lite_rail_12_0_640.jpg
They were a production rail. That Armslist pic is actually my listing from back in the day :)
I should have never sold it.

It was definitely lighter, and more bronze then the RIS II rails which were a bronze/brown.
(The new RIS II rails are "bleh" IMO. Dull, flat brown with no character to them)

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/BCM001_zps6a48fcad-395701.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/001-395707.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/002-395708.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/004-395709.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/003-395710.JPG
I appreciate the info and the additional pics, man. Gorgeous upper. Very cool to see, as I wasn't aware DD ever offered FDE rails in anything other than the RIS rails. And sorry for stealing your old ad pic.

I liked everything about my old Lite Rail II, aside from its oval profile. It was taller than it was wide. For that, I definitely prefer the RIS II for it's more rounded profile.
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 2:13:36 AM EDT
[#44]
Those FDE LITE rails became popular around the time Magpul launched the AFG and BCM started making their 14.5 middy.  It was the new "Hotness".  Haley used a BCM Middy with the FDE LITE rail and dude's were cloning it.

If anyone has a black 9 Lite rail for sale let me know.
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 3:46:34 AM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Postal0311:

Yes. There are photos of it in that config if you look around.

What ever would have been adopted would have been set in stone(more or less) and the alternatives would keep evolving. That is why we have a URX 3, URX 3.1, and an URX 4.0 while the DD RIS II is mostly the same(except for the change to keep it from breaking).
View Quote
I love prototype pics.  So cool!
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 8:48:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: cranky1] [#46]
sopmod block ll clone. 4 prong surefire flash hider,dd ris ii fde rail, colt 14.5 socom barrel, colt m4a1 marked lower, colt upper, colt bcg (with the white dot?), lmt sopmod stock, kac non usmc buis and eotech exps 3-0 red dot. pretty sure the ergo grip is not correct.



can someone help me with the damn photo
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 9:12:05 AM EDT
[#47]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By cranky1:
sopmod block ll clone. 4 prong surefire flash hider,dd ris ii fde rail, colt 14.5 socom barrel, colt m4a1 marked lower, colt upper, colt bcg (with the white dot?), lmt sopmod stock, kac non usmc buis and eotech exps 3-0 red dot. pretty sure the ergo grip is not correct.

https://image.ibb.co/bFT7VR/colt_sopmod.jpg

can someone help me with the damn photo
View Quote
looks good.  you need members to approve the pic before it shows up for you because of your post count...
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 9:12:46 AM EDT
[#48]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ankratz:

They were a production rail. That Armslist pic is actually my listing from back in the day :)
I should have never sold it.

It was definitely lighter, and more bronze then the RIS II rails which were a bronze/brown.
(The new RIS II rails are "bleh" IMO. Dull, flat brown with no character to them)

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/BCM001_zps6a48fcad-395701.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/001-395707.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/002-395708.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/004-395709.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/232334/003-395710.JPG
View Quote
That just doesn’t look right...the notch of exposed gas tube behind the FSB is messing with my anal retention.
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 11:27:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 871JZ] [#49]
Originally Posted By MALICIOUS2551:
Those FDE LITE rails became popular around the time Magpul launched the AFG and BCM started making their 14.5 middy.  It was the new "Hotness".  Haley used a BCM Middy with the FDE LITE rail and dude's were cloning it.

If anyone has a black 9 Lite rail for sale let me know.
View Quote
I had one if those 14.5" BCM midlength uppers with the 12" Lite Rail. In fact, it was the first upper I ever purchased and I was in love with it for about a year before I started building my own guns. I still have the upper, less the rail.

Originally Posted By cranky1:
sopmod block ll clone. 4 prong surefire flash hider,dd ris ii fde rail, colt 14.5 socom barrel, colt m4a1 marked lower, colt upper, colt bcg (with the white dot?), lmt sopmod stock, kac non usmc buis and eotech exps 3-0 red dot. pretty sure the ergo grip is not correct.

https://image.ibb.co/bFT7VR/colt_sopmod.jpg

can someone help me with the damn photo
View Quote
Nice build, man. I need to pick up another tan EXPS and use it to replace the T1 on my Block II upper.
Link Posted: 12/20/2017 2:08:43 PM EDT
[#50]
Pulled from a tampon thread in GD:

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