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Originally Posted By BlackRifleBandit:
Have they always been .070? I've got a coworker that bought one from them last July (2016) and wants to sell it. Still in the wrapper. I don't want to tear it down to find out. DD pins the MK12 Gas Block at the factory. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By BlackRifleBandit:
Have they always been .070? I've got a coworker that bought one from them last July (2016) and wants to sell it. Still in the wrapper. I don't want to tear it down to find out. DD pins the MK12 Gas Block at the factory. As to what the one from 7/16 would have, I'd guess probably .082, but no way of knowing without measuring. Originally Posted By smitty_007:
I just signed up for active junky...is it too late to get the $10 off for being a new member invited by an existing? |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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Originally Posted By smitty_007:
Was going to just pick up a Toolcraft BCG unless that will get me flamed...already have a CH. Are there clone correct BCGs and CHs for Block II's? View Quote The correct BCG would be a Colt, but I wouldn't sweat it personally. I run a TC in mine. Besides, you're already running a DD barrel and upper receiver, which should be Colt. I don't think it's a big deal at all, but I'm sure somewhere there is a clone Nazi that would say you failed, lol. |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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Originally Posted By smitty_007:
Was going to just pick up a Toolcraft BCG unless that will get me flamed...already have a CH. Are there clone correct BCGs and CHs for Block II's? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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In the absence of a plan, move toward the sound of gunfire and kill everything.
One who lifts heavy weight, sets back down, then repeats. One who Colt's/FN's all the things. |
Thanks guys, much appreciated!
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Colt from the factory/CRANE, FN BCG as replacement for rebuilds. Toolcraft is also a mil contractor tho so I wouldn't sweat it. Pretty much the same deal as running a DD upper instead of a Colt View Quote I already have the cage code for the US Army Depot in Anniston, AL that does small arms repair on my UID. I'll just tell people I put the TC BCG in not because it's the best BCG for the money, but as part of some elaborate backstory wherein my clone was repaired at the Anniston Depot. Boom, clone points and I wasn't even trying ;p. |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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My mind is slipping - can someone remind me the details on a Colt government profile M4 barrel cut down... Does the gas port have to be opened to the .070, or are they ported that way from the start?
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Originally Posted By CloneDiseased:
My mind is slipping - can someone remind me the details on a Colt government profile M4 barrel cut down... Does the gas port have to be opened to the .070, or are they ported that way from the start? View Quote |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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PRI gasbuster is correct, which i can't recommend because i have broken 2 latches already.
CD posted a pic with the raptors, i think the CQBRS belonged to a national guard unit. Im running a raptor in mine and love it. |
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Originally Posted By BlackRifleBandit:
Have they always been .070? I've got a coworker that bought one from them last July (2016) and wants to sell it. Still in the wrapper. I don't want to tear it down to find out. DD pins the MK12 Gas Block at the factory. View Quote If a commercial gun from July 2016, I would suspect it likely is an .082 port. |
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
Originally Posted By krdt:
The correct CH would be a PRI Gas Buster with military latch. Although, I'd highly recommend the combat latch instead. It's much more comfortable for one handed manipulation (on par with a BCM Mod4). I started out with the Military/Big Latch and found it really uncomfortable for using your left palm for charging. I have the FDE finished GB in mine, but the black one is more correct I'd assume. The newer GBs also run a solid pin instead of a roll pin, which is a nice upgrade for longevity. The correct BCG would be a Colt, but I wouldn't sweat it personally. I run a TC in mine. Besides, you're already running a DD barrel and upper receiver, which should be Colt. I don't think it's a big deal at all, but I'm sure somewhere there is a clone Nazi that would say you failed, lol. View Quote I like the Raptors too, it's what I run on non-clones... Such a good design. I even have a Raptor inspired latch on my AR-22 ;). |
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
If it were a standard commercial DD Mk18 complete upper, I'd say 90% chance it's a .082 port, but I'm not sure about the DD Mk18 URGs from Brownells. I haven't seen anyone else selling the stripped uppers outside of Brownells, and they say "Custom URG" on the box rather than "Mk18 URG". So, it's possible they ordered them spec'ed to .070 from the beginning. Who knows. Since they are already fairly heavily test fired from the factory and disassembling it to measure isn't on the table, I'd say go test fire it with an H buffer and you'll know pretty quickly if it's .070 or .082.
I never quite understood the whole "you need a massive gas port to run anything less than 5.56" thing manufacturers push. My .070 runs Wolf to M193 and everything in between just fine unsuppressed with an H buffer. Never tried Tula, but I'm guessing it would probably be the only thing it wouldn't run reliably. But, I could throw a carbine buffer in it if I really wanted to and likely run that as well. I contend it's less an issue with bulk steel case ammo and more an issue with people who don't tune their guns to the ammo they shoot. The Noveske 10.5" I have in my Mod 0 has something like a .078 port and I would really prefer if it were .070. It runs Wolf to M193 with an H3 unsuppressed. One of these days I'll swap it for a proper 10.3" .070 so it doesn't have to hide its .2" deformity in shame :\. Hopefully someone finally gets some factory Colt 10.3s in before it needs a new barrel, or maybe I'll try one of the Andro Corp 10.3s. Originally Posted By 78Staff:
I'm converting to the combat latch as well, just ordered two from PRI with the Labor Day sale. I think it was probably one of krdt's earlier posts that got me thinking about it, as the Mil Last is kinda small and slippery :). I like the Raptors too, it's what I run on non-clones... Such a good design. I even have a Raptor inspired latch on my AR-22 ;). View Quote |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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Might as well slap an SU253 on there.
That's a heavy bitch. |
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Originally Posted By ECPrevatte:
Your avatar threw me off. CQBR thread has already strayed far enough off topic these last few pages, might as well post a GL/SSC https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4373/36244646520_ccb0658533_b.jpg View Quote |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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Originally Posted By Roadblock:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/36161965633_4ce53336ab_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4423/36005512460_de7bef787e_b.jpg View Quote |
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i personally like the looks of the DD rail over the geissele but can see why they would be moving to the geissele.
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I know we have seen scout m600 in the wild but have we seen anyone running m300s?
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Can someone send me an active junky invite?
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Edit, got my invite and ordered with active junky. Got a Geisselle SSA, too and got $110 off!
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Do the 10.3 barrels that DD sells with a LPGB come pinned or are they just set screw. Thanks.
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Anyone know if they are moving to the Mk8 or Mk4 on those 416's?
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What are you guys using for a lower on the clone build? I was thinking of a Colt M4 lower but not sure if that's right. Thanks for the help
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Originally Posted By AR_Marv:
What are you guys using for a lower on the clone build? I was thinking of a Colt M4 lower but not sure if that's right. Thanks for the help View Quote |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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Originally Posted By krdt:
A Colt 6920 SOCOM M4A1 Carbine marked lower would be optimum, but ridiculously expensive to buy alone. The only remotely reasonable option is to buy a 6920 SOCOM and part it out. I suppose second best would be a Colt M4 Carbine marked 6920 lower. After that, once you're talking about markings that aren't even vaguely correct, it really doesn't matter as long as it's a milspec lower. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By AR_Marv:
What are you guys using for a lower on the clone build? I was thinking of a Colt M4 lower but not sure if that's right. Thanks for the help Attached File Attached File |
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Squire
Without blood, it doesn't count! I survived ARFbortion2016 and all I got was this stupid sigline |
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Or do a 80% https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/204916/A0BB8D91-332C-4850-81F2-8FB140728F5D_zpsytf9u2kb-297655.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/204916/DSC_0327_zpszprtxeef-297654.JPG View Quote |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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Originally Posted By krdt:
True. I thought about mentioning that, but figured I'd keep it off the shelf. Curious, how much did that lower run you after engraving and anodization? I'd have to factor in the cost of a jig and router as well, but just wondering how it compares to other options for a really accurate lower. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Or do a 80% https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/204916/A0BB8D91-332C-4850-81F2-8FB140728F5D_zpsytf9u2kb-297655.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/204916/DSC_0327_zpszprtxeef-297654.JPG |
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Squire
Without blood, it doesn't count! I survived ARFbortion2016 and all I got was this stupid sigline |
I put a full M3X kit up in the EE, for info if anyone's looking... Would appreciate thoughts on the price, since there's not much to go on. Includes light, tape switch and dual switch, IR Filter , extra bulb, and TD QD.
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NRA Life Member USN Retired |
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Spit balling here: $35 for the lower, $65 for engraving, $75 for ano........so $175 ish. View Quote |
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I'm so high speed I don't even take bathroom breaks. That's what dump pouches are for :\.
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Originally Posted By krdt:
Hmm, other than the initial investment for the jig and router, that is a pretty tempting price point for getting about as accurate a semi-auto lower as possible. Probably would need to buy 2 or 3 lowers to practice until I got one perfect enough that I'd want to Form 1 it (never milled an 80% before). I guess I could just look at the up front costs as an investment in being covered for lowers... basically from now on, lol. Thanks for the info. Assuming it was a good experience, you mind posting or PM'ing me the engraver you used? Did you just provide images for the roll mark and other details? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Spit balling here: $35 for the lower, $65 for engraving, $75 for ano........so $175 ish. If you do decide to buy a jig and plan to either do more than a handful or loan it to friends, get one with steel drill bushings. After a half dozen, my jig plates need to be replaced so that'll be another $80 I'll have to drop. |
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Squire
Without blood, it doesn't count! I survived ARFbortion2016 and all I got was this stupid sigline |
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Definitely do this. While my first attempt was 100% functional and from the outside you could never tell, it was less than optimal (especially if you've got OCD ). Subsequent attempts got better and better. I used braceman. He's got all the files for pretty much any clone you could think of. If you do decide to buy a jig and plan to either do more than a handful or loan it to friends, get one with steel drill bushings. After a half dozen, my jig plates need to be replaced so that'll be another $80 I'll have to drop. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By BlackRifleBandit:
Where did you get your anodizing done? I'm hearing some places have stopped taking 80% lowers...? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By BlackRifleBandit:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Definitely do this. While my first attempt was 100% functional and from the outside you could never tell, it was less than optimal (especially if you've got OCD ). Subsequent attempts got better and better. I used braceman. He's got all the files for pretty much any clone you could think of. If you do decide to buy a jig and plan to either do more than a handful or loan it to friends, get one with steel drill bushings. After a half dozen, my jig plates need to be replaced so that'll be another $80 I'll have to drop. |
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Squire
Without blood, it doesn't count! I survived ARFbortion2016 and all I got was this stupid sigline |
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Some place in FL. Name was something like "Fusion Metal Finishing" or "Synergy Metal Finishing". This was before the whole faux 3rd pin debacle, but I think finishers are only refusing those. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By BlackRifleBandit:
Gotcha...I'm familiar with who your mentioning. Braceman is currently working on a few things for me. He's a talented guy. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By BlackRifleBandit:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Some place in FL. Name was something like "Fusion Metal Finishing" or "Synergy Metal Finishing". This was before the whole faux 3rd pin debacle, but I think finishers are only refusing those. |
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Squire
Without blood, it doesn't count! I survived ARFbortion2016 and all I got was this stupid sigline |
Will the DD mk12 gas block fit under a Geissele mk14 or mk8 handguard? I'm leaning heavily towards the mk14. I just ordered a 10.3 barrel with the mk12 from DD and was curious. I have read some conflicting statements.
Worried I should have just got the blank barrel. I would like to be able to put any rail on without worries including something like the BCM as I like to change things up. I realize this is not exactly MK18 related but you guys are the experts. |
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The Geissele SSA-E trigger is what most are running correct?
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Looking like I'm going to start the journey into the MK18 after I get my big bonus from work. Geissele rails acceptable now?? I haven't had time to search the entire thread for them, going to start with a block 1 and go from there. Any particular brace acceptable until form 1 is approved? Planning on throwing out the cash for a corn cob and an RC in the near future.
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Some place in FL. Name was something like "Fusion Metal Finishing" or "Synergy Metal Finishing". This was before the whole faux 3rd pin debacle, but I think finishers are only refusing those. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Some place in FL. Name was something like "Fusion Metal Finishing" or "Synergy Metal Finishing". This was before the whole faux 3rd pin debacle, but I think finishers are only refusing those. Originally Posted By footsoldier9th:
The Geissele SSA-E trigger is what most are running correct? Originally Posted By rlee560:
Will the DD mk12 gas block fit under a Geissele mk14 or mk8 handguard? I'm leaning heavily towards the mk14. I just ordered a 10.3 barrel with the mk12 from DD and was curious. I have read some conflicting statements. Worried I should have just got the blank barrel. I would like to be able to put any rail on without worries including something like the BCM as I like to change things up. I realize this is not exactly MK18 related but you guys are the experts. Originally Posted By aaron580:
Looking like I'm going to start the journey into the MK18 after I get my big bonus from work. Geissele rails acceptable now?? I haven't had time to search the entire thread for them, going to start with a block 1 and go from there. Any particular brace acceptable until form 1 is approved? Planning on throwing out the cash for a corn cob and an RC in the near future. |
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