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UT, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 10:44:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Movistar]
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By secretwheelman:
Man, I wish Liberty had a white 30 gun when I bought mine. 
Yeah I like it. I was going to get this awesome orange two tone they make (well Superior, their sister company does) but I ended up going with White cause I think it will last longer (orange was awesome but would I love it 5 years from now?) Orange two tone: 
And cause Mk12 thread: 
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USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 10:47:19 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Movistar: Clone diseased I can tell you from personal experience you're going to have less than 2 turns on your can. Mine measured exactly the same (different brand and different set up but similar problem) It needs to be replaced.... I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think  |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 10:57:02 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased: So another thought that would look cleaner than all the shimming is a custom barrel spacer, like adco makes, that can get things out to the right distance. As long as I still have enough threads for the breaks installation, that might be the best option. I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased: Originally Posted By Movistar: Clone diseased I can tell you from personal experience you're going to have less than 2 turns on your can. Mine measured exactly the same (different brand and different set up but similar problem) It needs to be replaced.... I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think Send it to me and I'll test it with my 12th Model  |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 11:18:18 AM EDT
[#4]
The only sensible thing to do is to buy an AEM5 and use it as a gauge to check for proper collar - shoulder length
 
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UT, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 11:18:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Movistar]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased:
So another thought that would look cleaner than all the shimming is a custom barrel spacer, like adco makes, that can get things out to the right distance. As long as I still have enough threads for the breaks installation, that might be the best option. I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased:
Originally Posted By Movistar:
Clone diseased I can tell you from personal experience you're going to have less than 2 turns on your can. Mine measured exactly the same (different brand and different set up but similar problem) It needs to be replaced.... I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think
Seriously tho? If HCS/CLE/BA/WOA or anyone profiled the barrel wrong, they need to fix it and replace it. At their expense I would think. Friend, I've been in your shoes. Your can is NOT going to work on there. You may be lucky to get one full turn. Edit to add: moving the step back 1/4 inch is easy for Them to do. It will only cost HCS or whoever shipping. That's it. If t was too long they'd have to get a whole new barrel but all they have to do is put it on the lathe And move the step back a bit |
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USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 11:49:06 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Movistar: Seriously tho? If HCS/CLE/BA/WOA or anyone profiled the barrel wrong, they need to fix it and replace it. At their expense I would think. Friend, I've been in your shoes. Your can is NOT going to work on there. You may be lucky to get one full turn. Edit to add: moving the step back 1/4 inch is easy for Them to do. It will only cost HCS or whoever shipping. That's it. If t was too long they'd have to get a whole new barrel but all they have to do is put it on the lathe And move the step back a bit Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Movistar: Originally Posted By CloneDiseased: Originally Posted By Movistar: Clone diseased I can tell you from personal experience you're going to have less than 2 turns on your can. Mine measured exactly the same (different brand and different set up but similar problem) It needs to be replaced.... I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think Seriously tho? If HCS/CLE/BA/WOA or anyone profiled the barrel wrong, they need to fix it and replace it. At their expense I would think. Friend, I've been in your shoes. Your can is NOT going to work on there. You may be lucky to get one full turn. Edit to add: moving the step back 1/4 inch is easy for Them to do. It will only cost HCS or whoever shipping. That's it. If t was too long they'd have to get a whole new barrel but all they have to do is put it on the lathe And move the step back a bit I know right! You'd think they'd make it right. But, I already sent it back to HCS once for this issue I figure they would have put it on a lathe and moved the step back if they thought it was REQUIRED. They shimmed the break out and shipped it back  I think it's just one of those 17.9" bbls and I'm stuck with it  ....I figure a 3/16" spacer + crush washer will work.HB: AEM5 already in the works Waiting on Form 3 now. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 11:58:41 AM EDT
[#7]
Many moons ago, I remember reading something about the Mk12s and something about the armorers at crane using a shim of some sort along with the crush washer.
Not sure if it's true or I'm getting several different things mixed together. It was a long time ago. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 12:29:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: the-answer-is-42]
[#8]
Honestly dudes - the OPS/AE cans are not an exact science. Shit isn't going to break or blow up if your can is 4 turns too far in to two turns too far out.
I've setup my cans on rifles with shims, spacers, crush washer PLUS spacers, shimns PLUS crush washers, wrong collars, spike's collars, wrong steps, wrong barrel profiles- as long as it locks up and doesn't wobble you're fine. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 12:47:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mattyvac:
Honestly dudes - the OPS/AE cans are not an exact science. Shit isn't going to break or blow up if your can is 4 turns too far in to two turns too far out. I've setup my cans on rifles with shims, spacers, crush washer PLUS spacers, shimns PLUS crush washers, wrong collars, spike's collars, wrong steps, wrong barrel profiles- as long as it locks up and doesn't wobble you're fine. But "clone"-spec says it has to be exactly 8 turns .. LOL 
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UT, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 12:58:13 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
But "clone"-spec says it has to be exactly 8 turns .. LOL Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Honestly dudes - the OPS/AE cans are not an exact science. Shit isn't going to break or blow up if your can is 4 turns too far in to two turns too far out. I've setup my cans on rifles with shims, spacers, crush washer PLUS spacers, shimns PLUS crush washers, wrong collars, spike's collars, wrong steps, wrong barrel profiles- as long as it locks up and doesn't wobble you're fine. But "clone"-spec says it has to be exactly 8 turns .. LOL For me it doesn't have anything to do with "clone spec" or "shit blowing up". It was that when I installed my can the first time I BARELY got a full turn. If you shoot the can with that it's going to come off. So I added some shims courtesy of Hunterex (who is a gentleman and a scholar) and got an additional 3/4 turn. Now that's less than 2 turns. I'm still not comfortable with that. Maybe you are but not me. The correct measurement (from what I have researched) is 2 inches from the middle of the taper on the collar to the shoulder of barrel (prior to any crush or shims). If you measure and you're .25 short, measure the threads. How many threads are in .25? Like 6-7? *the preceding post was based on my limited experience and should be taken as such. |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 1:11:09 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased:
I know right! You'd think they'd make it right. But, I already sent it back to HCS once for this issue I figure they would have put it on a lathe and moved the step back if they thought it was REQUIRED. They shimmed the break out and shipped it back
I think it's just one of those 17.9" bbls and I'm stuck with it ....I figure a 3/16" spacer + crush washer will work.
HB: AEM5 already in the works Waiting on Form 3 now.
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased:
Originally Posted By Movistar:
Originally Posted By CloneDiseased:
Originally Posted By Movistar:
Clone diseased I can tell you from personal experience you're going to have less than 2 turns on your can. Mine measured exactly the same (different brand and different set up but similar problem) It needs to be replaced.... I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think
Seriously tho? If HCS/CLE/BA/WOA or anyone profiled the barrel wrong, they need to fix it and replace it. At their expense I would think. Friend, I've been in your shoes. Your can is NOT going to work on there. You may be lucky to get one full turn. Edit to add: moving the step back 1/4 inch is easy for Them to do. It will only cost HCS or whoever shipping. That's it. If t was too long they'd have to get a whole new barrel but all they have to do is put it on the lathe And move the step back a bit I figure they would have put it on a lathe and moved the step back if they thought it was REQUIRED. They shimmed the break out and shipped it back
I think it's just one of those 17.9" bbls and I'm stuck with it ....I figure a 3/16" spacer + crush washer will work.
HB: AEM5 already in the works Waiting on Form 3 now.
Congrats on the can. I guess the best thing to do is wait and try it on when it gets there!
Just for reference, CLEs short barrels have been short AFTER the step. The length between the shoulder and the step was correct. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 1:15:39 PM EDT
[#12]
One of my rifles allows like three or four turns; one about double that, and I don't even know what the third upper requires to lock the can up. Know why I don't know? Because as long as it's tight and centered up, it's fine. Go shoot already.
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Posted: 9/30/2015 3:04:39 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Movistar:
For me it doesn't have anything to do with "clone spec" or "shit blowing up". It was that when I installed my can the first time I BARELY got a full turn. If you shoot the can with that it's going to come off. So I added some shims courtesy of Hunterex (who is a gentleman and a scholar) and got an additional 3/4 turn. Now that's less than 2 turns. I'm still not comfortable with that. Maybe you are but not me. The correct measurement (from what I have researched) is 2 inches from the middle of the taper on the collar to the shoulder of barrel (prior to any crush or shims). If you measure and you're .25 short, measure the threads. How many threads are in .25? Like 6-7? *the preceding post was based on my limited experience and should be taken as such. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Movistar:
Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Honestly dudes - the OPS/AE cans are not an exact science. Shit isn't going to break or blow up if your can is 4 turns too far in to two turns too far out. I've setup my cans on rifles with shims, spacers, crush washer PLUS spacers, shimns PLUS crush washers, wrong collars, spike's collars, wrong steps, wrong barrel profiles- as long as it locks up and doesn't wobble you're fine. But "clone"-spec says it has to be exactly 8 turns .. LOL For me it doesn't have anything to do with "clone spec" or "shit blowing up". It was that when I installed my can the first time I BARELY got a full turn. If you shoot the can with that it's going to come off. So I added some shims courtesy of Hunterex (who is a gentleman and a scholar) and got an additional 3/4 turn. Now that's less than 2 turns. I'm still not comfortable with that. Maybe you are but not me. The correct measurement (from what I have researched) is 2 inches from the middle of the taper on the collar to the shoulder of barrel (prior to any crush or shims). If you measure and you're .25 short, measure the threads. How many threads are in .25? Like 6-7? *the preceding post was based on my limited experience and should be taken as such. Ok, I will add this: *** All of my ghetto setups had at least 5-8 turns. So YMMV
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Posted: 9/30/2015 3:09:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
My woa barrel with allen short collar is spot on in the center of the shoulder where the required pics show. Long collar should be in the same spot. No FSB so "Collargate" scandal wont affect me :) Long as that can get me about 8 turns will be happy! <a href="http://postimage.org/" target="_blank">http://s10.postimg.org/vgcvidb21/20150929_233829.jpg</a> EDIT: Diseased, that one and these are some of my favs, Nickiel09 and others in 5th posted these here and other places, I have a nice 0/1/H file going :). I ALMOST went ACE, but the more I looked at the ACS the more I liked. I am fully happy with my choice. just need a can and then I can work on ARMS rings and MK4 3.5-10. <a href="http://postimage.org/" target="_blank">http://s4.postimg.org/kyxo9mxgt/ACS_stock.jpg</a> <a href="http://postimage.org/" target="_blank">http://s4.postimg.org/7jank6oz1/mk12.png</a> <a href="http://postimage.org/" target="_blank">http://s4.postimg.org/jmfz7r019/MOD_H_2_5_8_with_aimpoint_and_3_5_10.png</a> <a href="http://postimage.org/" target="_blank">http://s4.postimg.org/8o4ppkbfx/Mod_Holland.jpg</a> Yep, those are freaking awesome. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:05:54 PM EDT
[#15]
Just got the upper back from ADCO and it's looking good. Still need some bits and pieces, but it's basically done.
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:16:51 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased: I know right! You'd think they'd make it right. But, I already sent it back to HCS once for this issue I figure they would have put it on a lathe and moved the step back if they thought it was REQUIRED. They shimmed the break out and shipped it back I think it's just one of those 17.9" bbls and I'm stuck with it ....I figure a 3/16" spacer + crush washer will work.HB: AEM5 already in the works Waiting on Form 3 now.Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CloneDiseased: Originally Posted By Movistar: Originally Posted By CloneDiseased: Originally Posted By Movistar: Clone diseased I can tell you from personal experience you're going to have less than 2 turns on your can. Mine measured exactly the same (different brand and different set up but similar problem) It needs to be replaced.... I won't replace it. I'll either find a way to make this work, or I'll get rid of the upper I think Seriously tho? If HCS/CLE/BA/WOA or anyone profiled the barrel wrong, they need to fix it and replace it. At their expense I would think. Friend, I've been in your shoes. Your can is NOT going to work on there. You may be lucky to get one full turn. Edit to add: moving the step back 1/4 inch is easy for Them to do. It will only cost HCS or whoever shipping. That's it. If t was too long they'd have to get a whole new barrel but all they have to do is put it on the lathe And move the step back a bit I figure they would have put it on a lathe and moved the step back if they thought it was REQUIRED. They shimmed the break out and shipped it back I think it's just one of those 17.9" bbls and I'm stuck with it ....I figure a 3/16" spacer + crush washer will work.HB: AEM5 already in the works Waiting on Form 3 now.Like I said, send it to me and I'll test it on my 12th Model |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:28:34 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309:
Just got the upper back from ADCO and it's looking good. Still need some bits and pieces, but it's basically done. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/21657018440_22789561de_b.jpg 
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:35:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HaveBlue83]
[#18]
havinga HELLLLLLL of a time installing the collar. itss too tight and now halfway down the barrel and stuck. FML.
gotta hammer it off and ruin it to remove it and then sand it down from the inside short collar going back on if this one gets dickered up and I will just make my own in mill class later.  grrrrrrrrrrrrr (sorry venting my ass off........) |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:37:19 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83: havinga HELLLLLLL of a time installing the collar. itss too tight and now halfway down the barrel and stuck. FML. gotta hammer it off and ruin it to remove it and then sand it down from the inside short collar going back on. grrrrrrrrrrrrr (sorry venting my ass off........) Someone said they had to heat theirs up to get it to slide on. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:40:53 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan: Someone said they had to heat theirs up to get it to slide on. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan: Originally Posted By HaveBlue83: havinga HELLLLLLL of a time installing the collar. itss too tight and now halfway down the barrel and stuck. FML. gotta hammer it off and ruin it to remove it and then sand it down from the inside short collar going back on. grrrrrrrrrrrrr (sorry venting my ass off........) Someone said they had to heat theirs up to get it to slide on. that doesnt sound like something you would have to do normally to install a collar...the Allen one is drop on loose. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:44:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83: that doesnt sound like something you would have to do normally to install a collar...the Allen one is drop on loose. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83: Originally Posted By dangerdan: Originally Posted By HaveBlue83: havinga HELLLLLLL of a time installing the collar. itss too tight and now halfway down the barrel and stuck. FML. gotta hammer it off and ruin it to remove it and then sand it down from the inside short collar going back on. grrrrrrrrrrrrr (sorry venting my ass off........) Someone said they had to heat theirs up to get it to slide on. that doesnt sound like something you would have to do normally to install a collar...the Allen one is drop on loose. People have had to heat up Badger gas blocks as well. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:45:09 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
Just got the upper back from ADCO and it's looking good. Still need some bits and pieces, but it's basically done. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/21657018440_22789561de_b.jpg Happen to know what size Butler Creek covers you have on the NF? Need to pick up a set and ditch the ones that come with it. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:51:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dangerdan]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309: Happen to know what size Butler Creek covers you have on the NF? Need to pick up a set and ditch the ones that come with it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309: Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda: Originally Posted By StevieJ309: Just got the upper back from ADCO and it's looking good. Still need some bits and pieces, but it's basically done. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/21657018440_22789561de_b.jpg Happen to know what size Butler Creek covers you have on the NF? Need to pick up a set and ditch the ones that come with it. #13 for eye, #15 for obj ADDMOUNT and Tenabraex are better |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:56:59 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
havinga HELLLLLLL of a time installing the collar. itss too tight and now halfway down the barrel and stuck. FML. gotta hammer it off and ruin it to remove it and then sand it down from the inside short collar going back on if this one gets dickered up and I will just make my own in mill class later.
grrrrrrrrrrrrr (sorry venting my ass off........) Too tight to get it off with a non-marring punch/hammer? |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 4:57:13 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
havinga HELLLLLLL of a time installing the collar. itss too tight and now halfway down the barrel and stuck. FML. gotta hammer it off and ruin it to remove it and then sand it down from the inside short collar going back on if this one gets dickered up and I will just make my own in mill class later.
grrrrrrrrrrrrr (sorry venting my ass off........) Okay, if you hammer it, you use a scrap piece of wood and tap it off from the rear. No damage that way. Also, I installed mine by using a strap wrench and spiraling it around the barrel on the way down. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 5:11:48 PM EDT
[#26]
strap wrench did nothing but remove the finish. i gotta pull the ENTIRE forearm and rail and optic and knock it off from behind with a brass punch and hammer and then sand it down.
were these tested on ops cut barrels? trying to NOT be a dick here but nothing should require heat to install....thats gonna constrict the barrel when it cools....... |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 5:27:39 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
strap wrench did nothing but remove the finish. i gotta pull the ENTIRE forearm and rail and optic and knock it off from behind with a brass punch and hammer and then sand it down. were these tested on ops cut barrels? trying to NOT be a dick here but nothing should require heat to install....thats gonna constrict the barrel when it cools....... There are tons of people that have the same issue with gas blocks, especially badger ones. It's impossible to manufacture something that will perfectly fit every single barrel out there. There's slight tolerance differences between different barrel manufacturers, and with as many different barrels that we all use for clones, it'd be impossible to make something that perfectly fits every one of them. Too tight is good and easy, just remove a small amount of material from the inside until it fits your barrel. If it was too loose that'd be far worse. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 5:36:12 PM EDT
[#28]
Yep. And i shoulda took sandpaper and opened up the inside. Noe its totally jammed on, im 3 hrs from my tools, and i cannot get the forearm off. Shouldnt have rushed it. Now the barrel is marked up and shit went downhill guess the junk will have to wait until sat to be fixed now.
Badger could have ran another .001 on it. Nobody seems to have a loose one so overall they are all super tight. Thats my observation. |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 5:49:03 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
Yep. And i shoulda took sandpaper and opened up the inside. Noe its totally jammed on, im 3 hrs from my tools, and i cannot get the forearm off. Shouldnt have rushed it. Now the barrel is marked up and shit went downhill guess the junk will have to wait until sat to be fixed now. Badger could have ran another .001 on it. Nobody seems to have a loose one so overall they are all super tight. Thats my observation. I only ask cause I'm bad with tools and did this once: you backed out the screw right.? Solution: block of wood. Place block against edge of collar. Tap tap tappy until collar moves down till it sits firmly on the shelf. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 5:55:55 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan:
Many moons ago, I remember reading something about the Mk12s and something about the armorers at crane using a shim of some sort along with the crush washer. Not sure if it's true or I'm getting several different things mixed together. It was a long time ago. Thats how my ops collar came installed from PRI on my mod 0. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 5:58:47 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83: Yep. And i shoulda took sandpaper and opened up the inside. Noe its totally jammed on, im 3 hrs from my tools, and i cannot get the forearm off. Shouldnt have rushed it. Now the barrel is marked up and shit went downhill guess the junk will have to wait until sat to be fixed now. Badger could have ran another .001 on it. Nobody seems to have a loose one so overall they are all super tight. Thats my observation. Sand paper, be careful and evenly sand off a little of the inside. Rushing usually Amounts to things like this happening. It'll be okay!! |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 6:18:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HaveBlue83]
[#32]
Ok....look....i have a holland....the collar is now level with the forearm. There is no leverage for wood or a brass drift pin or anything to get in there. I dont have a 0 with a fsb. I have to remove the forearm, unless ya'll want me to use the CF forearm as a lever for the wood block i dont have on me lol. Yes setscrew was actually out for assembly. I just took the old collar off, threw on the badger, used the old collar and tapped on that and then i realized the collar turned a bit and ohhhhh shit its stuck. Basically that process.
I gotta wait. I gotta tear it allllllllll down and start from scratch. I just cant do it where i am without the right tools at the point i am at. K? Lol |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 6:22:48 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83: strap wrench did nothing but remove the finish. i gotta pull the ENTIRE forearm and rail and optic and knock it off from behind with a brass punch and hammer and then sand it down. were these tested on ops cut barrels? trying to NOT be a dick here but nothing should require heat to install....thats gonna constrict the barrel when it cools....... Don't worry. My first rifle I built was my Mk12 Mod 1 in 2005/6. I had some Brownells bake on paint to paint the barrel. I put waaaaay too much paint and ended up buggering my paint job up when I slid on the gas block and OPS collar. Nothing got set where it should have been. SO I ended up having to pay $20-40 to get it sand blasted off Funny how back then, nobody wanted to spend $200 for a mount when they didn't have a 12th Model suppressor. You could easily find fake OPS INC brakes with a fake thread protector for $15-20. I bought my FF RAS from MSTN and without any notice, they sent me a machined stainless collar for free along with my rail I had one of those fake brakes. They're hard to find now. The machining was spot on and you couldn't tell any difference. In other news, I received my Geissele 13" SMR MK8 today to Recce out my dads FDE SIG M400 Enhanced. The swag and the free gas block and free 2 day shipping....fucking flawless. Still waiting for my order form ADCO to come in with some AEM5/12th Model mounts. I should have just enough room to mount a 12th Model on the SIG. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 6:24:13 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83: Ok....look....i have a holland....the collar is now level with the forearm. There is no leverage for wood or a brass drift pin or anything to get in there. I dont have a 0 with a fsb. I have to remove the forearm, unless ya'll want me to use the CF forearm as a lever for the wood block i dont have on me lol. Yes setscrew was actually out for assembly. I just took the old collar off, threw on the badger, used the old collar and tapped on that and then i realized the collar turned a bit and ohhhhh shit its stuck. Basically that process. I gotta wait. I gotta tear it allllllllll down and start from scratch. I just cant do it where i am without the right tools at the point i am at. K? Lol Drive around and find a house that's being built. Walk in the back where the big scrap pile of wood and dirt/trash is. Score yourself some wood Thats what I do anyways |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 6:33:56 PM EDT
[#35]
My FF RAS from bolt carrier came in today and it's about to go right back in the mail to HCS, but I couldn't help but mock up a fore end and take a pic
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WV, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 6:38:23 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan:
In other news, I received my Geissele 13" SMR MK8 today to Recce out my dads FDE SIG M400 Enhanced. The swag and the free gas block and free 2 day shipping....fucking flawless. Still waiting for my order form ADCO to come in with some AEM5/12th Model mounts. I should have just enough room to mount a 12th Model on the SIG. what patches did you get from Geissele???? Might see a duplicate or two in the mail here in acouple days
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 6:39:06 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan: Drive around and find a house that's being built. Walk in the back where the big scrap pile of wood and dirt/trash is. Score yourself some wood Thats what I do anyways Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan: Originally Posted By HaveBlue83: Ok....look....i have a holland....the collar is now level with the forearm. There is no leverage for wood or a brass drift pin or anything to get in there. I dont have a 0 with a fsb. I have to remove the forearm, unless ya'll want me to use the CF forearm as a lever for the wood block i dont have on me lol. Yes setscrew was actually out for assembly. I just took the old collar off, threw on the badger, used the old collar and tapped on that and then i realized the collar turned a bit and ohhhhh shit its stuck. Basically that process. I gotta wait. I gotta tear it allllllllll down and start from scratch. I just cant do it where i am without the right tools at the point i am at. K? Lol Drive around and find a house that's being built. Walk in the back where the big scrap pile of wood and dirt/trash is. Score yourself some wood Thats what I do anyways dont worry imma get it all fixed up. i blame the thread...the short collar was bugging me something fierce and it had to go LOLLL. forend looks goood man! why no self-assembly? cant be any worse than my job i did today . and I was a 45 Bravo too...this is shameful |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 7:10:18 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I would do nasty, unspeakable things to that mod 1. I needs it. I'm pretty damn good at painting, but when I get my 12 built up, I might have to send it to you for a paid spray job. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By Hunterex:
Originally Posted By CloneDiseased:
Installed the Badger Ordnance long collar just a few mins ago. <a href="http://s358.photobucket.com/user/emailryandavis/media/1f02e185-b121-40ec-9a8f-e904c68862ab_zpsb4giph70.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo30/emailryandavis/1f02e185-b121-40ec-9a8f-e904c68862ab_zpsb4giph70.jpg</a> ....I might be crazy, but the spacing of collar/break still looks a little off to me. What say those in the know? Dan, Utah, Wheelman? Looks spot on to me. Here's mine with an Ops long collar. http://img.pixady.com/2015/07/823065_mods01.jpg I would do nasty, unspeakable things to that mod 1. I needs it. I'm pretty damn good at painting, but when I get my 12 built up, I might have to send it to you for a paid spray job. Buy it off me and you can do whatever you want to it.
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Posted: 9/30/2015 9:12:41 PM EDT
[#39]
Just enough
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USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 9:43:08 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan: Just enough http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v37/ermey/20150930_200805_zpseiyb7fjh.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v37/ermey/20150930_200839_zpsxkxkas8w.jpg |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 9:43:55 PM EDT
[#41]
Yea bro, you shouldn't have to heat it to get it on the barrel. The Ops long collar I have (from before this new run) slides right down my 308 barrel like a stripper on a pole. I did have an issue with a gas block as stated above. I could not get the shit off, nothing would work. Fucked the Block up, before removing the paint on my barrel. Came right off. Was shocked the paint the made that much of a difference
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Posted: 9/30/2015 9:47:34 PM EDT
[#42]
It's not just Badger's stuff. My DD gas block would only make it about halfway before it got stuck. Tolerances can be a bitch sometimes.
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Posted: 9/30/2015 9:49:50 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309:
It's not just Badger's stuff. My DD gas block would only make it about halfway before it got stuck. Tolerances can be a bitch sometimes. Same. But no fears of it ever working loose. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 9:52:50 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UsubM:
My FF RAS from bolt carrier came in today and it's about to go right back in the mail to HCS, but I couldn't help but mock up a fore end and take a pic
http://i.imgur.com/a9aFIFX.jpg Lol....We all know the feeling!!! Even after all the FF RAS's I have, I still do it. Like a little kid on Christmas morning |
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USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 10:12:27 PM EDT
[#45]
Haha
This! |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 10:16:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: secretwheelman]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83: strap wrench did nothing but remove the finish. i gotta pull the ENTIRE forearm and rail and optic and knock it off from behind with a brass punch and hammer and then sand it down. were these tested on ops cut barrels? trying to NOT be a dick here but nothing should require heat to install....thats gonna constrict the barrel when it cools....... I doubt the collar was much over 130-150 degrees. |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 10:19:00 PM EDT
[#47]
Had no trouble getting the collar on a PRI douglas barrel. It was tight enough to take the paint away with it, but nothing comparable to the trouble you guys are having.
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Posted: 9/30/2015 10:23:41 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ECPrevatte: Had no trouble getting the collar on a PRI douglas barrel. It was tight enough to take the paint away with it, but nothing comparable to the trouble you guys are having. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/607/21610873728_99382e7434_c.jpg |
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Posted: 9/30/2015 11:00:19 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309: Just got the upper back from ADCO and it's looking good. Still need some bits and pieces, but it's basically done. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/21657018440_22789561de_b.jpg Fuck'n hell that thing looks good. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2015 11:29:20 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ECPrevatte: Had no trouble getting the collar on a PRI douglas barrel. It was tight enough to take the paint away with it, but nothing comparable to the trouble you guys are having. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/607/21610873728_99382e7434_c.jpg Thx for the pic....this is what i was expecting....maybe i will just scuff up the barrel and not the collar if it fits the douglas properly. Mime is bare and tight as hell. |
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