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Posted: 5/8/2013 6:22:14 AM EST
[#1]
LokiLoki, They are some great pictures... So awesome in fact, that I'm inspired to extend this project with some 3D printed parts. Next week, I'll be rerunning this project only this time in parallel in both Australia and the US. And this time, I will create 3D models for the front lens and rear lens so that anyone can make it. Cheaply too. And all the designs will be made open source and public domain, so that anyone can find a local 3D printing service and get all the parts. However, since the US doesn't commonly stock 80mm PVC pipe, I need someone to help me identify a common PVC pipe size, so I can make the parts for either US or Australian pipe. It will be the ultimate Metric vs Imperial showdown... er... project. Also, I'll design some custom battery goodness that wraps around the tube to keep things easy to replace and low profile. So please, suggestions on a better-than-70mm pipe size that everyone in the US can easily get - Thanks :) Regards
David |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2013 8:24:08 AM EST
[#2]
This friday I am off work, I will get some dimensions for US pvc pipe & Plastic Grey EMT conduit dimensions ID & OD at my local Home Depot and Post. The russian NV with the Large lenses make Great front optics.
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Posted: 5/8/2013 9:21:15 AM EST
[#3]
The standard us PVC pipe dimensions are here. The 3 inch schedule 40 is what I originally used-it is available at any big box or hardware store in the US.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-dimensions-d_795.html |
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Posted: 5/8/2013 9:41:45 AM EST
[#4]
Originally Posted By Hard_ware: The russian NV with the Large lenses make Great front optics. Link? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2013 11:00:47 AM EST
[#5]
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Posted: 5/9/2013 10:39:01 PM EST
[Last Edit: AGreyMan]
[#6]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk:
The smaller the focal length of the lens ( in mm ) the wider the field of view. Zoom is a ratio between the objective lens focal length and the ocular lens focal length. Eg, If you have a 25mm ocular then a 25 mm objective lens will produce 1:1 zoom. A 50mm will produce 2:1 zoom and so on. If you use a 50mm ocular, then a 50mm objective will only provide 1:1 zoom. Field of view is based on the size of the screen and the focal length of the lens. The tangent of half of the field of view is equal to the screen radius divided by the focal length of the lens. Regards David OK, I have read this thread a few times, and I am still trying to get some of this stuff settled in my noggin. If I understand David's above post correctly, if I use this occular that is 32mm with this 50mm objective, I will get a ~1.5X zoom? Thanks! |
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Posted: 5/10/2013 3:40:37 AM EST
[#7]
Originally Posted By AGreyMan: Originally Posted By cj7hawk: The smaller the focal length of the lens ( in mm ) the wider the field of view. Zoom is a ratio between the objective lens focal length and the ocular lens focal length. Eg, If you have a 25mm ocular then a 25 mm objective lens will produce 1:1 zoom. A 50mm will produce 2:1 zoom and so on. If you use a 50mm ocular, then a 50mm objective will only provide 1:1 zoom. Field of view is based on the size of the screen and the focal length of the lens. The tangent of half of the field of view is equal to the screen radius divided by the focal length of the lens. Regards David OK, I have read this thread a few times, and I am still trying to get some of this stuff settled in my noggin. If I understand David's above post correctly, if I use this occular that is 32mm with this 50mm objective, I will get a ~1.5X zoom? Thanks! 1.56x Magnification. Note: I haven't tried 32mm PLOSSL's with these tubes, and don't know how close they need to be to the tube to get focus. Regards David |
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Posted: 5/10/2013 7:53:10 AM EST
[#8]
Thanks for the prompt and understandable reply, David!
The oculars are the ones that Dr_Dickie (page 17) and LOKILOKI (page 18) used. Unfortunately the supply of the PVS-2 oculars has been bought up by people who got to this thread before me! Is 20* a decent FOV? The PVS-14 has a 40* FOV. Is comparing the two apples to oranges? Is there anything I can do to increase the FOV, if I am willing to sacrifice zoom? Thanks for your tireless efforts in helping us newbies. |
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Posted: 5/11/2013 1:04:56 AM EST
[#9]
No problem - :) The spec for the next project is a 50mm objective, with a 25mm ocular. That's 2:1 zoom. If you find a 25mm objective lens, then you'll get 1:1 zoom, Regards David
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2013 10:38:05 AM EST
[#10]
Just recently stumbled across the page, and Im contemplating an attempt. Can anyone help me out by giving me a parts list critique? Not really sure what Im looking for, but after reading the entire thread this is what I think I need to do it right.
Lens: http://www.ebay.com/itm/C-MOUNT-FUJINON-1-2-12-5-75mm-TV-ZOOM-Bolex-m4-3-G3-GH3-Pentax-Q-/390591866397?pt=UK_Lenses_Filters_Lenses&hash=item5af116e61d#ht_4949wt_1013 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computar-TV-Lens-75mm-F1-4-With-C-mount-to-NEX-Adapter-bundle-/221224822925?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item338206e88d#ht_480wt_917 Eyepiece: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meade-Series-5000-1-25-HD-60-Eyepiece-25mm-07735-/121018011479?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2d3c4f57 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Celestron-X-Cel-LX-25mm-1-25-Eyepiece-93426-/300804285259?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460955234b Then one of the tubes from the provided sources and whatever housing I decide to use. Will this glass work, or am I headed in the wrong direction? |
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Posted: 5/13/2013 1:58:49 PM EST
[#11]
Sorry Grunt, I can't help you. I'm still gathering parts myself.
I can tell you that every 3" pvc plumbing pipe cap in the Western WI area is now domed instead of flat. I think that's gonna mess with my build. Good luck! |
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Posted: 5/13/2013 3:14:27 PM EST
[#12]
Going on deployment soon, but I can't wait to start getting some parts and tackle this project when I get back!
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Posted: 5/13/2013 7:11:41 PM EST
[#13]
Some pics of the parts under development - I guess this is the NV equivalent of the "printed gun" except that this project is being conducted within ITAR regulations, so isn't likely to be shut down.
  So that takes the difficulty out of measuring exact distances for the photocathode lens flange. Also, the ocular uses a standard, cheap, lens cell that's easily adjusted with the printed mechanism. All that's missing is the pipe to surround it ( that's for Australian PVC 80mm pipe - I will redesign for US pipe ) and the batteries and switch. Regards David
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Posted: 5/14/2013 8:35:19 PM EST
[#14]
Will post some pics of my illumination solution in a few days. Been busy.
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Posted: 5/14/2013 8:51:29 PM EST
[#15]
cj7hawk,
I love the kit. I think it will really get a bunch of people into building their own kit. I really appreciate seeing your projects and all the info you contribute to the board. So thank you very much. |
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Posted: 5/19/2013 3:14:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: LOKILOKI]
[#16]
I was a bit stumped on what I should use for illumination, so I just kinda winged it. I decided on using a picatinny rail section and a flashlight mount on the side of the housing. To keep with the spirit of the project, I tried to use cheap parts that were easily sourced. I started by screwing this cheap aluminum rail onto the side of the pvc pipe. It turned out that the rail has a slight curve to the bottom, so it self aligns and mates to the pipe perfectly. Next was the flashlight mount, so I bought this one inch diameter flashlight mount. Then for the illuminator, I bought this cheap Chinese ultrafire flashlight. They sell a variety of the same flashlight with different powered bulbs, with 15w being the most powerful. Once I got it all hooked up, it became brutally apparent that this flashlight is almost to bright to use inside. In my cave with no windows, I fired it up and it was so bright the tube was glowing bright green with the gain still closed and the lens cap still on. The flashlight works miracles outside, making things bright out to 50 or 60 yards and visible out to at least 120 yards. It also illuminates the entire field of view, which could be a pro or a con I guess. Also, to make it work, it must be mounted very close to the front of the objective lens. Otherwise, the light spreads out and enters the lens, washing out the image. I also ended up ordering another mount and the 3w version of the flashlight for indoor use just because I enjoy taking things over the top
Here is the rail screwed into the tube 
The cheap Chinese ultrafire flashlight with the mount on it 
Apparently cameras are slightly more or sensitive to infrared than the human eye. The brighter flashlight appears as a dim red light when looking right at it at night, while the dimmer one is an almost indistinguishable red glow. 
Bright 15w flashlight mounted as far up as it can go on the rail 
The heavy beast with the 3w in back and 15w in front. 
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Posted: 5/19/2013 7:30:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: ACDer]
[#17]
Originally Posted By AGreyMan:
Sorry Grunt, I can't help you. I'm still gathering parts myself. I can tell you that every 3" pvc plumbing pipe cap in the Western WI area is now domed instead of flat. I think that's gonna mess with my build. Good luck! They sell flat caps called "test caps" for 3 inch PVC at Lowes or home depot. Similiar to mailing tube caps. I used them in my first builds. |
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Posted: 5/19/2013 8:01:10 PM EST
[#18]
Originally Posted By LOKILOKI:
I also ended up ordering another mount and the 3w version of the flashlight for indoor use just because I enjoy taking things over the top
I have the same 3w light and it doesn't light up much at all. I have a 12 led IR light I bought on ebay for $10 and that one lights up a whole room. |
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Posted: 5/19/2013 8:17:36 PM EST
[#19]
Originally Posted By Sturmgewehr-58:
Originally Posted By LOKILOKI:
I also ended up ordering another mount and the 3w version of the flashlight for indoor use just because I enjoy taking things over the top
I have the same 3w light and it doesn't light up much at all. I have a 12 led IR light I bought on ebay for $10 and that one lights up a whole room. Link? The 3w does not do a whole lot outdoors but it did indoors. |
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Posted: 5/19/2013 8:26:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: LOKILOKI]
[#20]
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Originally Posted By AGreyMan:
Sorry Grunt, I can't help you. I'm still gathering parts myself. I can tell you that every 3" pvc plumbing pipe cap in the Western WI area is now domed instead of flat. I think that's gonna mess with my build. Good luck! They sell flat caps called "test caps" for 3 inch PVC at Lowes or home depot. Similiar to mailing tube caps. I used them in my first builds. I had to buy my flat caps online from Here (just search "flat caps" in their search bar) If you don't want to do that, I can send you the extra one I have laying around if you pm me 
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Posted: 5/19/2013 9:04:14 PM EST
[#21]
Originally Posted By LOKILOKI:
Originally Posted By Sturmgewehr-58:
I have the same 3w light and it doesn't light up much at all. I have a 12 led IR light I bought on ebay for $10 and that one lights up a whole room. Link? The 3w does not do a whole lot outdoors but it did indoors. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-LED-IR-InfraRed-Flashlight-Silver-3-AAA-/130809639422 It costs a bit more than it did when I bought one last year. It's actually surprisingly powerful, you can see it illuminate out to 50 yards, but the beam's too wide at that distance to make a big difference. The white light Ultrafire I bought was pretty awesome, so I had high hopes for the IR one. I might get that 15w one. Here's a pic of the light on my scope, I rigged a toggle switch for it. 
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Posted: 5/19/2013 9:07:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: LOKILOKI]
[#22]
Originally Posted By Sturmgewehr-58:
Originally Posted By LOKILOKI:
Originally Posted By Sturmgewehr-58:
I have the same 3w light and it doesn't light up much at all. I have a 12 led IR light I bought on ebay for $10 and that one lights up a whole room. Link? The 3w does not do a whole lot outdoors but it did indoors. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-LED-IR-InfraRed-Flashlight-Silver-3-AAA-/130809639422 It costs a bit more than it did when I bought one last year. It's actually surprisingly powerful, you can see it illuminate out to 50 yards, but the beam's too wide at that distance to make a big difference. The white light Ultrafire I bought was pretty awesome, so I had high hopes for the IR one. I might get that 15w one. Here's a pic of the light on my scope, I rigged a toggle switch for it. http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss75/ALOrihuela/0525121443-1_zps8e7d3e75.jpg I might just have to try that instead of the 3w. I would definitely give the 15w a try though if I was you |
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Posted: 5/20/2013 7:31:18 PM EST
[#23]
Originally Posted By LOKILOKI:
If you don't want to do that, I can send you the extra one I have laying around if you pm me Thanks a lot for the offer, I really appreciate it! I have decided to go another route, though. David: I noticed on your site that you do testing for Australian NV owners. Have you ever run one of these cascade tubes through the testing? I would be curious to know the specs such as LP, halo, S/N, etc., etc. Thanks again for this awesome thread! |
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Posted: 5/21/2013 12:15:00 AM EST
[#24]
Originally Posted By AGreyMan: Originally Posted By LOKILOKI: If you don't want to do that, I can send you the extra one I have laying around if you pm me Thanks a lot for the offer, I really appreciate it! I have decided to go another route, though. David: I noticed on your site that you do testing for Australian NV owners. Have you ever run one of these cascade tubes through the testing? I would be curious to know the specs such as LP, halo, S/N, etc., etc. Thanks again for this awesome thread! LP/MM = >45 Halo = Nil. These devices do not experience Halo S/N = Unknown. Gen III, Low-light test, easily Group 2, Element 3 ( Could almost make out Group 3, Element 1 ) Pass requirement - Group 2, Element 2, so an easy pass. That was with a $20 lens too - So yeah, definitely Gen III quality - somewhere around Omni I/II level. Regards David
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Posted: 5/26/2013 10:59:59 PM EST
[Last Edit: AGreyMan]
[#25]
Ok, I am about ready to pull my hair out!
I got mine together, and I'll be damned if I can get it to focus. My measurement from the flange face to the "input lens" of the tube is 12.2mm. That's what it's supposed to be. My ocular lens is the one I mentioned earlier, the same one Dickie and LOKILOKI used. I did shorten the tube so it was shorter, by about 1/4". If anything mine looks shorter than LOKILOKI's, but if I pull it back, the focus gets worse. How do I go about troubleshooting this build? I suppose I could buy the $85 PVS-2 ocular lens, and that would help me rule out one or the other lens, but I'd rather not spend that money. Any ideas? Thanks for any advice you can throw my way. Edit: (I hope!) Rather than delete this post and try to pretend I am not an idiot, I will leave it here in hopes that it may help someone. As mentioned, LOKILOKI, Dickie and I all bought the same type of lens. Looks like this: 
David astutely noted that the extension needs to be shortened, as the point where this lens focuses is actually inside that extension tube. You want it to focus on the tiny screen at the end of the intensifier tube. To that end, I unscrewed the extension tube to chuck it up in my lathe not knowing that the extension tube holds two lenses and a spacer in proper position. I managed to catch the lenses that fell out when I unscrewed the tube and stuffed them back in the housing. Folks, turns out there is a "right-side-up" for both of those little lenses! I had mistakenly thought I had got them correctly placed back in the housing. It wasn't until I used the spare lens and it was almost perfect that I figured out my mistake! It was a simple matter to rearrange the "bad" lenses to be the same as the "good" lenses and now it's hunky-dory! So. Learn from my mistake. Treat your lenses with care. |
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Posted: 5/27/2013 5:19:11 AM EST
[Last Edit: RaptorFuel]
[#26]
My scope is almost done. Ordered a battery pack which is the last thing I need.
What are my options for cheap illumination? Something that will light up at a good distance. Eta. I have several sure fire flashlights, maybe I can swap the led out? |
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Posted: 5/27/2013 5:22:32 AM EST
[#27]
Ideally something then with a really narrow beam so youre image isn't swamped by near-field reflections. Regards David
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Posted: 5/27/2013 6:34:13 PM EST
[#28]
Originally Posted By AGreyMan:
Ok, I am about ready to pull my hair out! I got mine together, and I'll be damned if I can get it to focus. My measurement from the flange face to the "input lens" of the tube is 12.2mm. That's what it's supposed to be. My ocular lens is the one I mentioned earlier, the same one Dickie and LOKILOKI used. I did shorten the tube so it was shorter, by about 1/4". If anything mine looks shorter than LOKILOKI's, but if I pull it back, the focus gets worse. How do I go about troubleshooting this build? I suppose I could buy the $85 PVS-2 ocular lens, and that would help me rule out one or the other lens, but I'd rather not spend that money. Any ideas? Thanks for any advice you can throw my way. Edit: (I hope!) Rather than delete this post and try to pretend I am not an idiot, I will leave it here in hopes that it may help someone. As mentioned, LOKILOKI, Dickie and I all bought the same type of lens. Looks like this: http://images1.opticsplanet.com/755-405-ffffff/opplanet-galileo-a2-32-giant-eyepiece.jpg David astutely noted that the extension needs to be shortened, as the point where this lens focuses is actually inside that extension tube. You want it to focus on the tiny screen at the end of the intensifier tube. To that end, I unscrewed the extension tube to chuck it up in my lathe not knowing that the extension tube holds two lenses and a spacer in proper position. I managed to catch the lenses that fell out when I unscrewed the tube and stuffed them back in the housing. Folks, turns out there is a "right-side-up" for both of those little lenses! I had mistakenly thought I had got them correctly placed back in the housing. It wasn't until I used the spare lens and it was almost perfect that I figured out my mistake! It was a simple matter to rearrange the "bad" lenses to be the same as the "good" lenses and now it's hunky-dory! So. Learn from my mistake. Treat your lenses with care. Funny thing is, I did the exact same thing taking the small black piece off. I threw them back in and it just worked. However, I took it apart to clean it yesterday and played with them, and as far as I could tell, the quarter sitting flush at the end of the tube was focused whichever direction the lenses were put, assuming the larger lens was at the top and the smaller lens was at the bottom. Was your issue maybe caused by putting the small lens on top? |
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Posted: 5/27/2013 6:48:00 PM EST
[#29]
Regarding ir illumination, I'm curious about something. There are a few focusable lasers on eBay, one being 808 nm and the other being 980 nm. Would the 808 nm laser be slightly visible being that it is fairly close to the visible light spectrum? Also, would the cascade tube be very sensitive to the higher 980 nm wavelength as opposed to the 808 nm wavelength?
Thanks |
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Posted: 5/28/2013 4:20:39 PM EST
[#30]
Maybe our lenses are a little different after all!
Mine has two lenses that are kind of "D" shaped in cross section, and a ring-type spacer in between. I can't remember this right this second which way they are supposed to face. |
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Posted: 6/6/2013 12:39:09 AM EST
[#31]
Anyone use theirs with a telescope?
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Posted: 6/6/2013 4:58:30 AM EST
[#32]
Originally Posted By RaptorFuel: Anyone use theirs with a telescope? They are a bit heavy to use with telescope. :( David
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Posted: 6/6/2013 7:49:56 AM EST
[#33]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By RaptorFuel:
Anyone use theirs with a telescope? They are a bit heavy to use with telescope. :( David Just needs more duct tape. |
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Posted: 6/6/2013 8:21:03 AM EST
[#34]
Actually, some slides, with counterweights at the other end - It's not impossible, just not all that practical ;) Besides, you can use it to *build* a telescope  Regards David
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Posted: 6/7/2013 10:09:24 AM EST
[#35]
OK, some files for anyone who wants to try building a 3D printed model of the cascade scope - The files are on Shapeways, with zero markup, but you can download them from there and print them up anyway. Shapeways, with Download - Ocular Assembly - Focus: http://shpws.me/o8LZ Lockring: http://shpws.me/o8LR Lens Cell Carrier: http://shpws.me/o8LS Ocular Cap: http://shpws.me/o8LQ Objective: http://shpws.me/o8LV Battery Assembly - Battery Box: http://shpws.me/o8LU Cap: http://shpws.me/o8LT Parts go together like this:  Hopefully, it should all fit within a ND 3" piece of PVC-tube... Fingers crossed. As I update the parts, they will be here: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/dropbeartech Well, the 3D files are up with the shapeways models, and they are at zero markup anyway, but if anyone has access to a 3D printer, you can download the STL files for each and print them yourself for very little. Hope this helps :) If anyone prints one up and checks it, please let me know how it goes with 3" ND PVC. Thanks
David |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/9/2013 3:54:40 PM EST
[#36]
hello everyone. im new to this forum, but i heard about the cascade tube project a while back and found it extremely interesting so i started my own project. the p8079hp came from StarlightNv and the housing was a completely stripped pvs-1 scope body i bought off a guy for 15 bucks that had a large dent on the front of the scope body. it was pretty much useless so i cut the dented section off and rewired the housing and added a homemade c-mount and m42 lens adapter. the eyepiece is a meade 25mm superplossl kept in place by a pvc eyepice holder i made for it. also added some picatinny rail sections on the bottom for the dual grips(which are great for keeping this beast steady when not using a tripod), and a little section of rail on the side to hold the ir light(flashlight with diy light filter in my case) or other accessories. i already had 3 m42 lenses and a c-mount 50mm f1.4 and i was able to scrounge most everything else from my garage. i only had to buy the tube, housing and plossl eyepiece. so all in all i only paid about 175$ to make it. not at all bad for the image quality. this is my first cascade tube build and was a great learning experience. im an avid diy'er and find projects like this to be fun and rewarding. anyways, i just wanted to see the creative differences between everyones scopes and throw mine into the mix. sorry for the long post... im pretty stoked on this though.
heres some pics of the scope. http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/2013-06-07_213753_zpsafcb5c64.jpg http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/2013-06-07_213737_zps296cedf1.jpg http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/2013-06-09_132837_zps0646a001.jpg http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/2013-06-09_132742_zps5547d369.jpg http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/2013-06-09_132805_zpsa83e482c.jpg ill try to get some of the image quality when i can. my phone cam sucks though and will not even come close to doing the image it actually puts out. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 6/11/2013 2:04:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: wachtelhund]
[#37]
I finally got around to finishing my casade unit. Well almost. Still gluing up a PVC base for a telescope mount and will need to paint it again. Pretty impressed with its performance so far. I built it with 3" PVC pipe, wrapped the tube in some thin packaging foam and then duck tape to hold it firmly in the pipe. Both end caps where drill out for 1" (1 1/4") PVC threaded pipe connectors. I cut these down and threaded them together to agjust for the focal lenght. Installed a Minolta MD bayonet mount in the front, currently with a Minolta MC 50mm F 2 lens, purchased with camera off Ebay for $11.00 plus shipping. Hacked the camera for the bayonet mount and lens. I have another Minolta 58mm F 1:1.4 on the way bought off Ebay for $34.00. In the rear, I used a hack rear objective with focusing unit from a really cheap Spirit NV unit. Added a water proof box from Wally world, $6.00; for the battery box and two radio schack toggle switiches. Plus an 11.4 V Lith Ion battery pack. I have a pictinnay rail tapped to it right now with an ATN 450 MW IR illuminator that came with my PVS-22, and or an extra long range IR illuminator (Da Torch), normally mounted on my PVS-22.. The 2 Gen PS -22 is mounted on several rifles in front of their rifle scopes. This casade NV unit is way brighter and clearer than my PVS-22. I live in a rural area with no street or house lights. I've tested this on a full moon night, the casade unit was way brighter than my PVS-22; and I could easily see 400 yards. Tested it last night, no moon, slightly overcast and a little fog in low lying area; focusing on trees 125 yards away. I watched a deer walk through the field 100 yards below me, in fog. I tried mounting my extra long range IR illuminator (Da Torch) on the casade unit. The casade unit has a large field of view and the Da Torch looks like a light saber reaching out and touching objects. At objects like trees and extra 100 yards and under brightness, and clearity is fantastic. I plan on using this on a tripod as a spoting scope for coyotes. Will post pictures in a day or two after the tripod base and pictinny rail are attached and unit is painted.
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Posted: 6/11/2013 10:58:20 PM EST
[#38]
11.4v is a little hgh - but a 7v pack would probably work OK.
Looking forward to more pics :) Loved the build of the last one - two handles!
Regards David |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 6/14/2013 11:02:47 AM EST
[#39]
Originally Posted By wachtelhund:
I finally got around to finishing my casade unit. Well almost. Still gluing up a PVC base for a telescope mount and will need to paint it again. Pretty impressed with its performance so far. I built it with 3" PVC pipe, wrapped the tube in some thin packaging foam and then duck tape to hold it firmly in the pipe. Both end caps where drill out for 1" (1 1/4") PVC threaded pipe connectors. I cut these down and threaded them together to agjust for the focal lenght. Installed a Minolta MD bayonet mount in the front, currently with a Minolta MC 50mm F 2 lens, purchased with camera off Ebay for $11.00 plus shipping. Hacked the camera for the bayonet mount and lens. I have another Minolta 58mm F 1:1.4 on the way bought off Ebay for $34.00. In the rear, I used a hack rear objective with focusing unit from a really cheap Spirit NV unit. Added a water proof box from Wally world, $6.00; for the battery box and two radio schack toggle switiches. Plus an 11.4 V Lith Ion battery pack. I have a pictinnay rail tapped to it right now with an ATN 450 MW IR illuminator that came with my PVS-22, and or an extra long range IR illuminator (Da Torch), normally mounted on my PVS-22.. The 2 Gen PS -22 is mounted on several rifles in front of their rifle scopes. This casade NV unit is way brighter and clearer than my PVS-22. I live in a rural area with no street or house lights. I've tested this on a full moon night, the casade unit was way brighter than my PVS-22; and I could easily see 400 yards. Tested it last night, no moon, slightly overcast and a little fog in low lying area; focusing on trees 125 yards away. I watched a deer walk through the field 100 yards below me, in fog. I tried mounting my extra long range IR illuminator (Da Torch) on the casade unit. The casade unit has a large field of view and the Da Torch looks like a light saber reaching out and touching objects. At objects like trees and extra 100 yards and under brightness, and clearity is fantastic. I plan on using this on a tripod as a spoting scope for coyotes. Will post pictures in a day or two after the tripod base and pictinny rail are attached and unit is painted. Still playing with this project. Mounted the Minolta 58mm F 1;1.4 lens and saw a nice improvement. Have to correct my statement about the comparison with my PVS 22. Battery needed replacement in the PVS 22, but this casade tube is pretty close to my Pvs-22 2Gen+. I had the 11.4 volt pack on hand and will replace it with a 7.4 Lith Ion battery pack. One thing I have a problem with is the paint, inside and out. I made mine with (1 1/4") PVC threaded pipe connectors in both end caps to be able to ajust the focal length. Each time I take off an end cap and put it back on some paint flakes off and get on the lens. Think, I'm going to cut a new tube and not paint the inside, but only paint the oustide after it is done. As for the IR illuminator, I removed the ATN 450 IR illuminator, and replaced it with a two C cell maglight. I have a 940 IR 50 mm camera lens in the maglight in place of a clear lens. I put a 3 cell bulb in the flashlite plus a PVC tube insert. The two C123 3 volt batteries over drive the bulb for more lumens. This out performs the ATN 450 IR illuminator. Will try to post pictures this weekend. |
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Posted: 6/14/2013 8:19:48 PM EST
[#40]
Originally Posted By wachtelhund:Each time I take off an end cap and put it back on some paint flakes off and get on the lens. Think, I'm going to cut a new tube and not paint the inside, but only paint the oustide after it is done. The reason for painting the inside, is the outside gets scratched and PVC lets IR light straight through, which will cause issues with the image being washed out if you're standing near a light while looking into the darkness. You can also use an insert around the objective end of the tube ( just the middle part ) to mask the tube - then it doesn't matter if light gets to the rest of the tube. Regards David |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 6/15/2013 12:13:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: wachtelhund]
[#41]
David, I'm aware of the need to darken the inside of the tube. I temporarily cleaned off the paint from the inside of the end caps and outside of the tube covered by the end caps. I then covered these surfaces several time with permament black marker. I also installed a strip of tack cloth around the casade tube lens to catch paint chips. When I cut the next tube, I will line it with black gasket materail which can be purchased in a roll.
How do I clean the output casade lens. When I received it from the UK, it had a finger print on the lens. I've tried eye glass cleaner to remove it, but it is still there. Things to do: Order screw on lens cap for Minolta 58 mm lens. Deside on actual battery housing for six volts, Thinking about UltraFire WF-501B body from Kiadomain.com; compact with switch in end cap. I have a number of these laying around. IR Illuminator: No sense spending a lot of money on an illuminator. A two C cell maglite with Maglite Mag-Num Star Xenon 6 cell bulb, 6 volt. Driven by 9 volts, 3 C123 batteries and a 52mm IR 850mw filter. This should be good for 130 to 160 yards in total darkness. I haven't cut a new tube yet as I'm still reconsidering the battery pack and illuminator. |
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Posted: 6/15/2013 8:02:24 PM EST
[#42]
Originally Posted By wachtelhund: David, I'm aware of the need to darken the inside of the tube. I temporarily cleaned off the paint from the inside of the end caps and outside of the tube covered by the end caps. I then covered these surfaces several time with permament black marker. I also installed a strip of tack cloth around the casade tube lens to catch paint chips. When I cut the next tube, I will line it with black gasket materail which can be purchased in a roll. How do I clean the output casade lens. When I received it from the UK, it had a finger print on the lens. I've tried eye glass cleaner to remove it, but it is still there. Things to do: Order screw on lens cap for Minolta 58 mm lens. Deside on actual battery housing for six volts, Thinking about UltraFire WF-501B body from Kiadomain.com; compact with switch in end cap. I have a number of these laying around. IR Illuminator: No sense spending a lot of money on an illuminator. A two C cell maglite with Maglite Mag-Num Star Xenon 6 cell bulb, 6 volt. Driven by 9 volts, 3 C123 batteries and a 52mm IR 850mw filter. This should be good for 130 to 160 yards in total darkness. I haven't cut a new tube yet as I'm still reconsidering the battery pack and illuminator. Sounds like a good choice of battery. Regards David.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2013 2:24:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: wachtelhund]
[#43]
Okay, here is my casade unit. Amost done, just need to add tripod mount and paint. I cut a new tube, changed the battery holder. Right now it is covered with just black perm maker. I'm going to try coating the PVC with PVC cement prep/cleaner and then spray it while the prep/cleaner is still wet. I think the paint might adhere better.
Here it is with a UltraFire WF-501B body with two end caps as a battery holder, 2 C123 batteries to power the casade tube; push botton on end cap to turn it on and off. While not being used cap can be partily unscrewed to avoid accidental powering of the tube. IR illuminator is a two C cell maglite with 6 volt bulb and 3 C123, 3 volt batteries with an 840 IR filter. This is great for viewing 150 + yards, but to bright for close viewing. I'll install a voltage regulator switch in the end cap to vary the intensity. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNV002_zps0b19f440.jpg http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNV001_zps1c455c76.jpg For the front lens I used a Minolta 58mm F 1:1.4 lens. I cut out the bayonet mount from an old minolta camera and mounted it to the end cap. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNVMinolta58mmF114_zpsadfaaa8d.jpg http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNVfrontlensbayonetmount_zps0a5c08f5.jpg It is hard to see but I used a 1 1/4" threaded PVC pipe concentor, male and female as a focal lenght adjustment. It allowed me the turn it in or out until the front lens was in focus. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNVfrontlensadjustment_zps92a82bb9.jpg Rear eye piece was canablized from an old junk Yukon Sprit unit. this was the front objective and retains its focus adjustment. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNV012RearEyepiece_zpsd02a0c8a.jpg Here again I used a 1 1/4" threaded PVC pipe concentor, male and female as a focal lenght adjustment. It allowed me the turn it in or out until the front lens was in focus. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNV010EyeobjectiveAdjustment_zps1aac228e.jpg I'll try and take some pictures tonight. Here are some night pictures taken at mid night. Partly cloudy with some star light. No other street or house lights with in a 2 miles. Taken across open fields at woods and trees. This first shot is a trees 140 yards with out any IR illumination. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNVNightshotnoInfrared_zps53364433.jpg Same shot using the Maglite for IR illumination. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNVNightshot140yardsampInfrared_zps3cf8935a.jpg Another shot at trees 150 yards> http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNVtrees150yardsampInfrared_zpsed30f33f.jpg And a wood line 120 yards. Picture is a little shaky as I was on one knee taking the shot. http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/CasadeNVwoods120yardsampInfrared_zpsf8197eae.jpg |
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ROM
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Posted: 7/17/2013 9:33:00 AM EST
[#44]
Hi guys, this is the most info I found on one forum regarding DIY NVG projects, now maybe someone can help me with a few advice, below you will find the parts already ordered:
Minolta 58mm F 1:1.4 lens + C mount 8079HP Tube Starlight UK For battery case I will use an old laser (2x CR123A = 6V) it has the button and everything, I will take out the laser diode :) Now on to the questions: 1. The case I want to use is a 2 mm thick PVC pipe (75 mm) in diameter, I sow in some discussions that some light might go throw the PVC so I will paint it black and was thinking of putting an aluminium foil over it as a light protection. Don't pay attention to how it will look as I will be putting another PVC pipe over the aluminium cote, just wondered if you think the aluminium foil will help in keeping unwanted light out. 2. As I plan to use this as a scope for airsoft which of the following oculars do you recommend http://www.ebay.com/itm/TS-Optics-TS-7-21mm-Zoom-Okular-1-25-Multivergutung-fur-Teleskope-/151043218170?pt=DE_Foto_Camcorder_Teleskope&hash=item232ae09afa http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSO-1-25-32mm-Super-Plossl-Eyepiece-for-Telescope-GSP32-/111111802222?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19dec78d6e 3. Will a 2" eyepiece give me a better eye relief then a 1.25" one 4. What is the main advantage of using a adjustable eyepiece (as the first one in the link above) I want to know if the extra money is worth it or not 5. Can I use this as an eyepiece ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-Hunting-3X-Magnifier-Scope-Sight-with-Flip-To-Side-Mount-for-20mm-Rail-/271240957113?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item3f27388cb9 6. IR 720 nm filter put in front of the photo lens will this filter out all light coming from an CREE LED flashlight and will this affect the brightness of the image in a dark night (forest area like) 7.What is the roll of FOV when talking about eyepiece, how will a bigger or smaller FOV can affect the device build ? I know its a lot of questions but for 3 weeks now I am not doing anything but reading and searching for parts :) budget is going down :) |
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Posted: 7/17/2013 9:53:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: cj7hawk]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ilion: Hi guys, this is the most info I found on one forum regarding DIY NVG projects, now maybe someone can help me with a few advice, below you will find the parts already ordered: Minolta 58mm F 1:1.4 lens + C mount 8079HP Tube Starlight UK For battery case I will use an old laser (2x CR123A = 6V) it has the button and everything, I will take out the laser diode :) Now on to the questions: 1. The case I want to use is a 2 mm thick PVC pipe (75 mm) in diameter, I sow in some discussions that some light might go throw the PVC so I will paint it black and was thinking of putting an aluminium foil over it as a light protection. Don't pay attention to how it will look as I will be putting another PVC pipe over the aluminium cote, just wondered if you think the aluminium foil will help in keeping unwanted light out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ilion: Hi guys, this is the most info I found on one forum regarding DIY NVG projects, now maybe someone can help me with a few advice, below you will find the parts already ordered: Minolta 58mm F 1:1.4 lens + C mount 8079HP Tube Starlight UK For battery case I will use an old laser (2x CR123A = 6V) it has the button and everything, I will take out the laser diode :) Now on to the questions: 1. The case I want to use is a 2 mm thick PVC pipe (75 mm) in diameter, I sow in some discussions that some light might go throw the PVC so I will paint it black and was thinking of putting an aluminium foil over it as a light protection. Don't pay attention to how it will look as I will be putting another PVC pipe over the aluminium cote, just wondered if you think the aluminium foil will help in keeping unwanted light out. 2. As I plan to use this as a scope for airsoft which of the following oculars do you recommend http://www.ebay.com/itm/TS-Optics-TS-7-21mm-Zoom-Okular-1-25-Multivergutung-fur-Teleskope-/151043218170?pt=DE_Foto_Camcorder_Teleskope&hash=item232ae09afa http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSO-1-25-32mm-Super-Plossl-Eyepiece-for-Telescope-GSP32-/111111802222?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19dec78d6e 3. Will a 2" eyepiece give me a better eye relief then a 1.25" one 4. What is the main advantage of using a adjustable eyepiece (as the first one in the link above) I want to know if the extra money is worth it or not 5. Can I use this as an eyepiece ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-Hunting-3X-Magnifier-Scope-Sight-with-Flip-To-Side-Mount-for-20mm-Rail-/271240957113?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item3f27388cb9 6. IR 720 nm filter put in front of the photo lens will this filter out all light coming from an CREE LED flashlight and will this affect the brightness of the image in a dark night (forest area like) Yes. LED flashlights do not put out Infrared. An IR filter is like putting a red filter over a green torch. No light gets through ( except a little leakage ) 7.What is the roll of FOV when talking about eyepiece, how will a bigger or smaller FOV can affect the device build ? I know its a lot of questions but for 3 weeks now I am not doing anything but reading and searching for parts :) budget is going down :) That's OK - That's a good way to be - experiment. Cheap lenses are good. I use a 50mm Cmount lens - very cheap, excellent function and known focus. The eyepiece can be a magnifying glass. Read up on what the focal length of a lens means and it will make more sense :) Regards David |
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Posted: 8/8/2013 12:51:03 PM EST
[#46]
Scope is done except I need to make a new spacer for the front lens. It is a little too close to the tube. I used an aluminum courier tube, radioshack battery holder, the ocular made for these tubes, and an e-bay 50mm 1.4f c-mount lens. It works great. When it gets dark I will try to take some pics through it.
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MN, USA
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Posted: 8/9/2013 9:59:31 PM EST
[#47]
Hi all, new member here - very useful thread/site, I appreciate all the information and insight provided. However, I do have a couple questions.
First of all some background to what I'm wanting to accomplish: I chase storms for a local TV station (and of course make reports to both the TV station and the National Weather Service so they can issues warnings accordingly). While I am out chasing, I provide live video of what I'm seeing via video streaming. I have been doing some research into finding a cost effective solution to being able to not only see what's going on better at night (obviously if you can't see what's coming things can be very dangerous) but to also stream live video at night. I believe these "P8079HP" tubes may be what I'm looking for to build my project and make it work. My questions: - Any recommendations for a lens to use for this purpose? I realize usually faster is better but in my case with lightning I'm not sure this is true and if the constant 'flashing' would screw things up. - How much do these tubes weigh (roughly)? I have a remotely controlled pan/tilt camera device mounted to the roof of my vehicle which I use for the live video streaming during daylight hours...but not sure if the tubes, etc would be to heavy for this device to work. - I'm thinking of using this camera with the tubes (assume I need something low lux) http://www.ezspycam.com/ECC-800HQ.htm - would something like this work? If not, any recommendations? Anyhow, I think that is it for now. I appreciate any help. I realize this is not really the normal use for this device so some questions may not be known until I test things. Just looking for some general info and suggestions though... |
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Posted: 8/10/2013 7:34:49 PM EST
[#48]
I don't believe that these tube are what you are looking for, as they are large... about the size of a 24oz beer can, and weigh a little more... and the image will "streak" when moved. If there is a bright point of light, it will have a "tail" if you move.
If you are trying to sell your video, you need better than this technology. We are having fun, because it is cheap and a way for some of us to get a toe in the water. It is not what I would suggest a beginner who intends to tie his livelihood to this tech.
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Posted: 8/11/2013 3:41:34 AM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stormchaser: Hi all, new member here - very useful thread/site, I appreciate all the information and insight provided. However, I do have a couple questions. First of all some background to what I'm wanting to accomplish: I chase storms for a local TV station (and of course make reports to both the TV station and the National Weather Service so they can issues warnings accordingly). While I am out chasing, I provide live video of what I'm seeing via video streaming. I have been doing some research into finding a cost effective solution to being able to not only see what's going on better at night (obviously if you can't see what's coming things can be very dangerous) but to also stream live video at night. I believe these "P8079HP" tubes may be what I'm looking for to build my project and make it work. My questions: - Any recommendations for a lens to use for this purpose? I realize usually faster is better but in my case with lightning I'm not sure this is true and if the constant 'flashing' would screw things up. - How much do these tubes weigh (roughly)? I have a remotely controlled pan/tilt camera device mounted to the roof of my vehicle which I use for the live video streaming during daylight hours...but not sure if the tubes, etc would be to heavy for this device to work. - I'm thinking of using this camera with the tubes (assume I need something low lux) http://www.ezspycam.com/ECC-800HQ.htm - would something like this work? If not, any recommendations? Anyhow, I think that is it for now. I appreciate any help. I realize this is not really the normal use for this device so some questions may not be known until I test things. Just looking for some general info and suggestions though... I wouldn't worry too much about lightning - These tubes won't handle it as well as modern tubes, but should be fine. Front lens? Depends on how much magnification you want. If you get a 25mm or longer lens, you'll be fine. 25mm lens will provide > 40 degrees FOV. 50mm will be about 25 degrees, of which 20 will be useful. There's a lot of distortion near the edge. 50mm F1.4 lenses are probably best. Tubes weigh a few pounds. About 4 or so, from memory. They are not light. If you want something light, get a Gen3 NV device. You can make a Gen3 camera weight under a pound, complete. A low-light camera should be fine. You'll need to experiment with lenses. Probably around 8mm or so would be fine, and you'll need a very long extension to give a very close macro. Hope this helps :) Regards David |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 9/22/2013 9:54:36 PM EST
[#50]
hi guys just found out about this a couple of days ago and am compiling a list of necessary parts, got pretty much everything pat down except for the camera lens. Im looking to get something with variable zoom. Would any of the lenses below this achieve the desired results and me a good lens for the project in general?
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/660371307/5_100mm_Vari_focal_Manual_Iris.html http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/253053837/5_100mm_Manual_vari_iris_Manual.html http://focusafe.en.alibaba.com/product/454606492-210694060/7_5_75mm_CCTV_Camera_Lens.html http://focusafe.en.alibaba.com/product/528707423-210694060/10_120mm_Megapixel_Varifocal_Auto_iris_Lens.html |
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