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Posted: 9/23/2013 6:26:57 PM EST
[#1]
I'd recommend steering clear of all zoom lenses. Most
have low and unspecified F-numbers at full magnification which will limit your ability to use the NV on moonless nights. Fixed-magnification lenses of F1.4 are cheap and good to get, but lack magnification. If the lenses are cheap, by all means try them and let me know how they work, but I can't see them working to well. If you need to go with a zoom, have a look at larger format lenses, and look for two F-numbers to tell you the range of F-stops - eg, F1.6-4.3 would means F1.6 at low magnification and F4.3 at higher magnification. Try to keep the "higher" number under F2.2. If it only gives one F-stop value ( as those lenses do ) then assume it's for the lowest zoom level - Unless it's a very expensive lens that specifies the same F-stop for all zooms. Regards David
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Posted: 11/9/2013 11:52:13 AM EST
[#2]
Bump to keep this out of the archives.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 11/11/2013 10:20:35 AM EST
[#3]
David,
Great of you to offer your advice. Thank you in advance. I've wanted to build a night vision scope for sometime but had not done any in depth research on the topic until after purchasing an image intensifier. Cart before the horse, I know. I really hope I haven't wasted my money. I purchased the unit on EBay. It is an AN/VVS-2. My understanding is that it came from a tank periscope. It was advertised as Gen 2. I have not received the unit yet but I am already starting to worry about construction. Upon my last review of pics of the unit I noticed it has multiple pins were the power supply plugged in. Any chance I can get some pointers from you or the forum on how the unit is wired? Which pin is the ground? Etc. Thanks, Steve 
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Posted: 11/12/2013 5:55:54 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Austin1776: David, Great of you to offer your advice. Thank you in advance. I've wanted to build a night vision scope for sometime but had not done any in depth research on the topic until after purchasing an image intensifier. Cart before the horse, I know. I really hope I haven't wasted my money. I purchased the unit on EBay. It is an AN/VVS-2. My understanding is that it came from a tank periscope. It was advertised as Gen 2. I have not received the unit yet but I am already starting to worry about construction. Upon my last review of pics of the unit I noticed it has multiple pins were the power supply plugged in. Any chance I can get some pointers from you or the forum on how the unit is wired? Which pin is the ground? Etc. Thanks, Steve I don't know how to wire a VVS2, but they use a fairly common tube - like a MX9644 with a HUGE ocular screen... And a bit heavy, but it's doable. There are four pins on the tube. Power on the outside pins, and gain control on the inside ones. They take 3v. Not too hard to wire up. Regards David |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 11/24/2013 11:18:35 AM EST
[#5]
First post (my dad is giving me his ar15
 ). Anyway, I love this diy thread. Just have a quick question
How hard would it be to use 2 of these setups to make binoculars? (not sure if its as easy as putting them side-by-side or some canter needed). |
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USA
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Posted: 11/24/2013 12:55:14 PM EST
[#6]
Since you will get a minimum ~8cm interpupilary distance i doubt that you can simply put them side by side.
Even touching the tubes the distance between centers will be too much (unless you have a really big head or eye-yo-eye distance) You might get a better chance to use one tube and a binocular viewer like those used in microscopes/telescopes. i think David is your master here. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 11/24/2013 6:08:01 PM EST
[#7]
Looked on ebay, see a few microscope binocular heads...any thoughts?
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UKR
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Posted: 11/24/2013 8:20:56 PM EST
[#8]
ive seen a lot of these on youtube used by UFO hunters, there is a guy in australia that built one, all you need is this cheap tube from england, and 6V of DC. super easy, I will definitely make few of those and give them to tech geek friends as gifts :)
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Posted: 11/25/2013 5:07:08 PM EST
[#9]
Binocular eyepiece? I don't know - can you post a link to one? It's probably something that can be made to work, but you'd probably have to buy and try it and figure it out to do so. With mirrors, it's possible to make a cascade binocular, something simple like a periscope section, but don't use prisms, as they will probably reverse the image which would be a problem. I'm not sure that bino cascades would be such a good idea :) But it would be a fun project. Regards
David |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 11/25/2013 5:51:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: medmike]
[#10]
Thanks David... take a look at these http://www.ebay.com/itm/131020995034?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649....maybe figure out a mount/cut it down if need be.
eBay item number:131020995034 if that link is not working |
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Posted: 11/27/2013 5:37:35 AM EST
[#11]
I don't really know. If it's cheap, then it might be worth trying, though I wouldn't spend more money on it than you're willing to throw away - David
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MO, USA
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Posted: 11/28/2013 12:09:55 AM EST
[Last Edit: Austin1776]
[#12]
David,
Thanks for the info. You are exactly correct, two power leads on each end middle are for gain. Thanks! I have started the build. Can you point me to anyone or video resources that has used this intensifier, possibly get some additional pointers? BTW: Again you are correct about the ocular screen. It is huge. I almost don't need an eyepiece. ;)) Regards, Steve I forgot to mention this is the MX9644 I'm working with. |
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Posted: 11/28/2013 1:46:19 AM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj7hawk:
I don't know how to wire a VVS2, but they use a fairly common tube - like a MX9644 with a HUGE ocular screen... And a bit heavy, but it's doable. There are four pins on the tube. Power on the outside pins, and gain control on the inside ones. They take 3v. Not too hard to wire up. Regards David Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By Austin1776:
David, Great of you to offer your advice. Thank you in advance. I've wanted to build a night vision scope for sometime but had not done any in depth research on the topic until after purchasing an image intensifier. Cart before the horse, I know. I really hope I haven't wasted my money. I purchased the unit on EBay. It is an AN/VVS-2. My understanding is that it came from a tank periscope. It was advertised as Gen 2. I have not received the unit yet but I am already starting to worry about construction. Upon my last review of pics of the unit I noticed it has multiple pins were the power supply plugged in. Any chance I can get some pointers from you or the forum on how the unit is wired? Which pin is the ground? Etc. Thanks, Steve
I don't know how to wire a VVS2, but they use a fairly common tube - like a MX9644 with a HUGE ocular screen... And a bit heavy, but it's doable. There are four pins on the tube. Power on the outside pins, and gain control on the inside ones. They take 3v. Not too hard to wire up. Regards David Same as any other 25mm.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 11/30/2013 7:08:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: SamsonIMI]
[#14]
The PVS-2 eyepieces are back on ebay. I ordered from this guy about 6 months ago and it took about 2 weeks to get to Texas.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141120813954 |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2013 1:38:04 AM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SamsonIMI: The PVS-2 eyepieces are back on ebay. I ordered from this guy about 6 months ago and it took about 2 weeks to get to Texas. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141120813954 Ya I bought one as soon as I saw that the guy had them up for sale. I've been searching for one for what seems like forever.
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USA
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Posted: 12/16/2013 11:36:52 AM EST
[Last Edit: Dxvid55]
[#16]
Hi all, this is my first post although I have been reading for a while. I have just published a blog about using this intensifier for astronomy and will post a link as a number of people have been asking if anyone has used it for astronomy.
Backyard Astronomy Thanks to cj7hawk and others for the useful information and ideas in this thread.
David. |
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GBR
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Posted: 12/18/2013 9:52:24 AM EST
[#17]
There is a technical question in the blog which someone here may be able to shed some light on, about reducing ths SNR. Keeping it cold seems to help, not a huge amount but maybe the difference between seeing a faint object and not seeing it. The manual says it will operate between4.5-7v, so would reducing the voltage to 4.5 (3 batteries instead of 4, or a voltage switch?) have any effect on the SNR? And would operating at 4.5v for extended periods be harmful?
Any help would be appreciated, (presuming this forum is still active?). |
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Posted: 12/19/2013 12:59:15 AM EST
[#18]
Yes, it's still an active thread, though is a little quiet of late - Gen2 and most metal photocathodes aren't all that affected enough by thermionic emission that cooling would create a significant different in S/N - Regards David
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GBR
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Posted: 12/20/2013 10:22:32 AM EST
[#19]
Erasmus! Damn that's oooold lol!
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WI, USA
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Posted: 1/8/2014 7:55:18 AM EST
[#20]
Hello David,
I built a unit last summer and it worked great. Recently, last October ordered two more tubes fron Julian for friends. One is a gunsmith. We re-built mine and one other in alumimiun housings. Went to work on the third casade tube and can get it to light up. When I apply power I can hear it oscialating inside but it does not light up. Is there anything I can do. Dave |
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Posted: 1/13/2014 5:41:45 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wachtelhund: Hello David, I built a unit last summer and it worked great. Recently, last October ordered two more tubes fron Julian for friends. One is a gunsmith. We re-built mine and one other in alumimiun housings. Went to work on the third casade tube and can get it to light up. When I apply power I can hear it oscialating inside but it does not light up. Is there anything I can do. Dave Whine but no light? Sounds faulty. Send an email to Julian... He's pretty good about that. Julian does check them, but it's possible for internal electrical faults to occur. I can't think of any solution if it whines, but there's no image. David
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/15/2014 9:02:13 PM EST
[#22]
Maybe I missed it browsing the thread, but do you have a complete write up on assembly and parts, etc?
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Posted: 1/17/2014 7:50:41 AM EST
[#23]
There are basic plans here: http://aunv.blackice.com.au/cgi-bin/nightvision/forum?index=projects&story=cascade If you dig through enough, you'll even find metal part plans there. Also, there are plastic parts that you can 3D print - They can be ordered or you can download them here for free and print at home. http://www.shapeways.com/shops/dropbeartech Regards David |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/17/2014 6:46:40 PM EST
[#24]
Thanks a lot!
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Posted: 1/20/2014 10:21:10 AM EST
[Last Edit: ACDer]
[#25]
Just want to triple check that the HP8079 tubes have ABC. I just picked up a TVS-2 with a dead tube and am going to swap in a spare HP8079 and I want to make sure I should use the ABC continuity assembly part instead of the original oscillator before I fire her up. Thanks.
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Posted: 2/12/2014 4:58:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: Outrider]
[#26]
I've been following this thread for a while and have decided to take the plunge.
I've ordered my tube from Starlight and the PVS-2 eyepiece from eBay. Now on the hunt for an objective lens. Any recommendations are appreciated. How does this lens look? http://www.ebay.com/itm/50mm-f1-4-CCTV-Lens-Adapter-Ring-bundle-Nikon-1-V1-V2-J1-J2-J3-S1-camera-/321204374195?pt=US_Lens_Adapters_Mounts_Tubes&hash=item4ac945cab3 Lastly the housing. I'd like to make a pretty robust housing. I wonder if it would be worthwhile to go with an old PVS-2 housing? Anyway, I'm excited to begin the adventure and open to any advice. I'm going to read through this thread again and take notes before I spend too much and need to go backwards. |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 11:52:35 AM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RussellAthletic:
I've been following this thread for a while and have decided to take the plunge. I've ordered my tube from Starlight and the PVS-2 eyepiece from eBay. Now on the hunt for an objective lens. Any recommendations are appreciated. How does this lens look? http://www.ebay.com/itm/50mm-f1-4-CCTV-Lens-Adapter-Ring-bundle-Nikon-1-V1-V2-J1-J2-J3-S1-camera-/321204374195?pt=US_Lens_Adapters_Mounts_Tubes&hash=item4ac945cab3 Lastly the housing. I'd like to make a pretty robust housing. I wonder if it would be worthwhile to go with an old PVS-2 housing? Anyway, I'm excited to begin the adventure and open to any advice. I'm going to read through this thread again and take notes before I spend too much and need to go backwards. F1.4 is good and 50mm will work fine- F 1.4 75mm is even better if you can find a good one. You could use a PVS-2 housing-but half the fun is making your own, I started out with PVC tubing from the big box store and you can make a good housing out of that for just a few bucks. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/16/2014 2:58:29 PM EST
[#28]
I'm just starting one of these also, thanks everyone for the help. I was also wondering about just buying a pvs2 housing. As much as I would like to build one myself, I was wondering how good the lens was on the original housing? If I'm going to spend $50 to $100 for a lens, and it might not be a very good one, it may be worth spending $125-$150 for the housing and get the proper lens. That is if it's any good? If not I will build it myself and get a good lens. I can't seem to find any specs for it on line anywhere, other than its a 4x (if I remember right). Anybody know if these are any good? Thanks.
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Posted: 2/16/2014 5:22:56 PM EST
[#29]
I have tried the original pvs-2 lens and find that a 75mm 1.4 tv lens works just as well if not better. TV lenses can be adjusted for light conditions, the pvs2 lens cannot.
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Posted: 2/16/2014 9:17:03 PM EST
[#30]
I picked up a Fujinon 50mm 1.4F CCTV micro 4/3 lens. I can't say I know exactly what I got but based on my readings it seemed like a good lens for the project.
I also purchased some PVC piping housing for the and caps today. Most parts are en route. I'll update once I get everything and try to document my process. If I can do this anybody can! |
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USA
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Posted: 2/17/2014 7:07:01 AM EST
[#31]
You can't adjust the light on the pvs-2 lens because it doesn't have a shutter, and a camera lens does? That makes sense. I'm assuming the pvs-2 has a reticle on the lens?
According to David these cascade tubes are comparable to an early gen 3 tube (with less clarity etc.), does anyone know how they compare to a gen 2, like a pvs-4? |
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Posted: 2/17/2014 8:01:57 AM EST
[#32]
no reticle on the pvs2 lens. tube is as good or better then the 4, but you get the fish eye effect that the 4 does not.
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USA
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Posted: 2/17/2014 12:24:00 PM EST
[#33]
I've seen the fisheye effect in some of the pictures and videos, I thought it might be an incompatible lens, or lens mounted the wrong distance from the input of the tube. Great info, thanks.
I thought the pvs2 was supposed to be a stand alone weapon mounted sight (I've seen pictures of this), apparently not if there is no reticle. Was it supposed to be mounted in front of, or behind another sight? I believe it is collimated, no? |
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Posted: 2/17/2014 1:06:34 PM EST
[#34]
the reticle on the original 2 was bonded onto the tube input. some people have improvised a reticle on the HP tubes.
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USA
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Posted: 2/18/2014 4:20:41 PM EST
[#35]
Can anyone explain what the ABC (auto brightness control?) on these does? I know these aren't auto gated like the gen 3's, and it needs a shutter to reduce light coming in if there is lots of ambient light. So, what exactly does the ABC do?
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OR, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2014 7:49:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: jeff1304]
[#36]
So I was kinda just skimming this thread and im curious can you use other tubes for a project like this and if you can how much smaller would they be ? If you cant were is a master list of parts or anything of that sort for a best outcome build ?
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USA
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Posted: 2/26/2014 6:18:22 AM EST
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jeff1304:
So I was kinda just skimming this thread and im curious can you use other tubes for a project like this and if you can how much smaller would they be ? If you cant were is a master list of parts or anything of that sort for a best outcome build ? hi! 
of course you can use other tubes.
look for inverter tubes with integrated power supply,if you are building monocular or rifle scope. and device will be around 3 - 5 times smaller than on p8079hp based one. advantages of p8079hp tubes are: they are cheap,but comparable with high end gen2 and they are available outside US. cons: size,weight and image distortion. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 2/26/2014 2:12:01 PM EST
[Last Edit: jeff1304]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti:
hi!
of course you can use other tubes.
look for inverter tubes with integrated power supply,if you are building monocular or rifle scope. and device will be around 3 - 5 times smaller than on p8079hp based one. advantages of p8079hp tubes are: they are cheap,but comparable with high end gen2 and they are available outside US. cons: size,weight and image distortion. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti:
Originally Posted By jeff1304:
So I was kinda just skimming this thread and im curious can you use other tubes for a project like this and if you can how much smaller would they be ? If you cant were is a master list of parts or anything of that sort for a best outcome build ? hi!
of course you can use other tubes.
look for inverter tubes with integrated power supply,if you are building monocular or rifle scope. and device will be around 3 - 5 times smaller than on p8079hp based one. advantages of p8079hp tubes are: they are cheap,but comparable with high end gen2 and they are available outside US. cons: size,weight and image distortion. What are some of the other tubes you could use ? im not real familiar with night vision and was looking to get the best bang for my buck with hopefully it not being giant sized :P |
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LVA
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Posted: 2/27/2014 11:51:41 AM EST
[#39]
something like MX-9644/UV,i guess.
gen 2. 500$ on ebay. 25mm photocathode,micro 4/3 format camera lens is suitable. |
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GBR
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Posted: 3/2/2014 4:39:13 PM EST
[#40]
During a brief interlude in the monsoon I managed to add some interesting objects to the blog last Friday. The M82 supernova, some other galaxies and a couple of globular clusters.
Have a look at the "Performance" link if you want to see the details. http://imageintensifier.blogspot.co.uk/ |
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HKG
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Posted: 3/9/2014 2:28:36 AM EST
[#41]
Hey guys, just took the plunge and ordered a tube from Julian and a VARO eyepiece from Israel off ebay.
I'm probably going for a 75mm f1.4 objective - simply because I don't like the look of a narrow objective on a thick tube, being the disgusting hipster I am. Would that combination result in magnification? As I intend to use this scope as an Airsofting scope it's not too much of an issue as long as the total magnification is under 3x. Additionally, I've been looking at fitting a reticule to it, but buying a cheap Chinese rifle scope and cutting it up seems like it would be troublesome to zero. I had the idea of instead fitting a small RDS (possibly an Aimpoint T1 clone) behind the ocular lens inside a rubber eyepiece. It'd be easily reversible, be easy to zero and would avoid issues with being too bright for the tube. The only issue could be that the eye relief might be shorter than the length of the RDS, in which case I'd need to rethink it. What do you guys think? |
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Posted: 3/9/2014 3:07:58 AM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkLite: Hey guys, just took the plunge and ordered a tube from Julian and a VARO eyepiece from Israel off ebay. I'm probably going for a 75mm f1.4 objective - simply because I don't like the look of a narrow objective on a thick tube, being the disgusting hipster I am. Would that combination result in magnification? As I intend to use this scope as an Airsofting scope it's not too much of an issue as long as the total magnification is under 3x. Additionally, I've been looking at fitting a reticule to it, but buying a cheap Chinese rifle scope and cutting it up seems like it would be troublesome to zero. I had the idea of instead fitting a small RDS (possibly an Aimpoint T1 clone) behind the ocular lens inside a rubber eyepiece. It'd be easily reversible, be easy to zero and would avoid issues with being too bright for the tube. The only issue could be that the eye relief might be shorter than the length of the RDS, in which case I'd need to rethink it. What do you guys think? If you want to add a small reflex sight, you can get something like a low-cost prism sight like the aim pro - that will work just fine with it. If you want to modify a reflex sight, you can put it in front, or behind. That works too, but you need a fair bit of space - or you can use a couple of mirrors like a periscope - except the bottom mirror is like a see-through piece of glass, and put something like an aimpoint T1 clone on top of it. That would work very effectively, and be relatively small and easy to adjust. Also, you can use a longer focal-length lens for the ocular ( eg 50mm) which will give a LOT of eye relief, though at the cost of magnification ( will be half ) though the detail is exceptional. But a low-cost IR laser would be the easiest. Anyway, a quick announcement - I just found out UPS have a printing service, so I will package up a list of the files for the 3D printed version of the housing for this project, in case anyone wants to make a fitted housing that takes the manual work out of making one ( it's just an assembly task then ) since all the dimensions are pre-determined accurately. Regards David.
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HKG
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Posted: 3/9/2014 4:19:18 AM EST
[#43]
I know the IR laser would be the easiest way to do things, but the biggest issue then is that anyone else using NV during an airsoft game would be able to spot me very, very easily.
One of the biggest draws of this project has been that it's a passive system. The ocular lens I'm using is this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lens-for-VARO-Night-Vision-Monocular-Eyepiece-Device-/141120813954 Does anyone know how the eye-relief is on it? |
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Posted: 3/10/2014 5:24:22 PM EST
[#44]
My tube came in.
I'm just missing my battery box and a way to secure my objective lens to the housing. I'm excited to start it up for the first time. |
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LVA
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Posted: 3/11/2014 7:16:41 AM EST
[Last Edit: hatti]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkLite:
I know the IR laser would be the easiest way to do things, but the biggest issue then is that anyone else using NV during an airsoft game would be able to spot me very, very easily. One of the biggest draws of this project has been that it's a passive system. The ocular lens I'm using is this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lens-for-VARO-Night-Vision-Monocular-Eyepiece-Device-/141120813954 Does anyone know how the eye-relief is on it? it is 45mm from end of original rubber eye cup when it's squeezed to surface of rear element of eyepiece. hope it helps.
you can place reticle or crosshair on either end of tube. personally i prefer to put tungsten wire crosshair between objective lens and photocathode. it looks like this: 
as you see,i use objective lens and adjustable mount from AN/PVS/2. you can buy them from same Israeli seller,they have all major pieces of PVS-2,except for housing. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/11/2014 10:29:47 AM EST
[Last Edit: JAD762]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj7hawk:
If you want to add a small reflex sight, you can get something like a low-cost prism sight like the aim pro - that will work just fine with it. If you want to modify a reflex sight, you can put it in front, or behind. That works too, but you need a fair bit of space - or you can use a couple of mirrors like a periscope - except the bottom mirror is like a see-through piece of glass, and put something like an aimpoint T1 clone on top of it. That would work very effectively, and be relatively small and easy to adjust. Also, you can use a longer focal-length lens for the ocular ( eg 50mm) which will give a LOT of eye relief, though at the cost of magnification ( will be half ) though the detail is exceptional. But a low-cost IR laser would be the easiest. Anyway, a quick announcement - I just found out UPS have a printing service, so I will package up a list of the files for the 3D printed version of the housing for this project, in case anyone wants to make a fitted housing that takes the manual work out of making one ( it's just an assembly task then ) since all the dimensions are pre-determined accurately. Regards David. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By DarkLite:
Hey guys, just took the plunge and ordered a tube from Julian and a VARO eyepiece from Israel off ebay. I'm probably going for a 75mm f1.4 objective - simply because I don't like the look of a narrow objective on a thick tube, being the disgusting hipster I am. Would that combination result in magnification? As I intend to use this scope as an Airsofting scope it's not too much of an issue as long as the total magnification is under 3x. Additionally, I've been looking at fitting a reticule to it, but buying a cheap Chinese rifle scope and cutting it up seems like it would be troublesome to zero. I had the idea of instead fitting a small RDS (possibly an Aimpoint T1 clone) behind the ocular lens inside a rubber eyepiece. It'd be easily reversible, be easy to zero and would avoid issues with being too bright for the tube. The only issue could be that the eye relief might be shorter than the length of the RDS, in which case I'd need to rethink it. What do you guys think? If you want to add a small reflex sight, you can get something like a low-cost prism sight like the aim pro - that will work just fine with it. If you want to modify a reflex sight, you can put it in front, or behind. That works too, but you need a fair bit of space - or you can use a couple of mirrors like a periscope - except the bottom mirror is like a see-through piece of glass, and put something like an aimpoint T1 clone on top of it. That would work very effectively, and be relatively small and easy to adjust. Also, you can use a longer focal-length lens for the ocular ( eg 50mm) which will give a LOT of eye relief, though at the cost of magnification ( will be half ) though the detail is exceptional. But a low-cost IR laser would be the easiest. Anyway, a quick announcement - I just found out UPS have a printing service, so I will package up a list of the files for the 3D printed version of the housing for this project, in case anyone wants to make a fitted housing that takes the manual work out of making one ( it's just an assembly task then ) since all the dimensions are pre-determined accurately. Regards David. That would be cool. I just ordered a tube a few weeks ago. According to the tracking number it landed in O'Hare today. Hopefully I'll get it in a few days. ETA: My tube showed up at the house today. I gotta admit, I'm just a little excited about this.
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USA
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Posted: 3/12/2014 9:17:34 PM EST
[#47]
Possible dumb question.
There is a fingerprint on the "input screen" of my tube. Is there any special way of cleaning it without damaging the screen? |
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GBR
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Posted: 3/14/2014 8:39:22 AM EST
[Last Edit: Dxvid55]
[#48]
Last Wednesday night I did a comparative test of several different types of filters (broadband,narrowband,colours, Moon) on M42 under poor seeing conditions. The results more or less confirm what several people have been saying about filters used with intensifiers. You can see the test under the new "filters" link in the blog.
http://imageintensifier.blogspot.co.uk/ |
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HKG
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Posted: 3/15/2014 2:59:36 AM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti:
it is 45mm from end of original rubber eye cup when it's squeezed to surface of rear element of eyepiece. hope it helps.
you can place reticle or crosshair on either end of tube. personally i prefer to put tungsten wire crosshair between objective lens and photocathode. it looks like this: http://imageshack.com/a/img138/6153/ylet.jpg as you see,i use objective lens and adjustable mount from AN/PVS/2. you can buy them from same Israeli seller,they have all major pieces of PVS-2,except for housing. Thanks for the info! I intend to mount this center-bore on a RIS rail. The biggest issue with this is that I'd either need a mount that can adjust the entire tube (a la the ELCAN) or a mount which is solid and secured, but I'd need some way of adjusting the reticule/red dot relative to the scope. |
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LVA
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Posted: 3/15/2014 6:15:14 AM EST
[Last Edit: hatti]
[#50]
either way is fine.
for each their own. it depends on tools and materials available. adjustable mount seemed easiest way to me. besides,reticle always remains in center of field of view,when this kind of adjustment is used. there's self made weaver mount used on my other scope: http://imageshack.com/a/img36/1994/8xye.jpg construction is very simple - just four plates and some spacers. front part has horizontal adjustment(loosen one,fasten opposite screw), rear part - vertical(screw+strong spring). http://imageshack.com/a/img839/9927/jf46.jpg at thread pitch of adjustment screws 1mm and distance between pivotal points 125mm,i can catch 5cm at 100m. if you want to have more refined adjustment,there are two ways: smaller pitch of adjustment screws or larger distance between pivotal points. |
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