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Posted: 3/16/2014 7:33:28 AM EST
[#1]
I finally rigged mine up last night to confirm tube operates. Very fun seeing the green glow. All that is left is to order a C mount adapter to get a solid objective mount up.
I'm looking forward to getting a nice permanent design. |
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HKG
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Posted: 3/19/2014 3:46:02 AM EST
[#2]
Got my shipping confirmation from Julian and I'm so fucking excited!
I really want to build myself a monocular now, but unfortunately getting the tubes in HK is a total bastard. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/26/2014 10:37:45 AM EST
[#3]
Finally got in my PVS 2 eyepiece. Now that the parts are collected, we're ready to start.
My 7 year old and my 4 year old have both gotten interested in the project. I'm looking forward to making it a learning experience for them. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/29/2014 7:50:48 PM EST
[#4]
So, ummm... Is there any kind of a secret to soldering the negative wire onto the tube?
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LVA
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Posted: 3/30/2014 12:20:01 AM EST
[#5]
hi,
a few basic tips: clean desired area of contact ring with sandpaper in order to get rid of oxide and other crap, make sure that both surfaces (ring and wire) already are tin covered,before soldering them together. good luck :) |
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USA
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Posted: 3/30/2014 6:03:08 PM EST
[#6]
Thanks!
I hate to ask a bunch of annoying questions, but..... I'm using an old 50mm Minolta lens off of a 35 mm camera. That means that the rear glass on the lens should be 35 mm away from the tube face, right? |
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LVA
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Posted: 3/31/2014 1:38:52 AM EST
[#7]
it's ok to ask!
35mm refers to image size. meaning that the lens forms circular image that covers 35mm film frame. circle is even bigger than 35mm. in result,about a half of light gathered by the lens,misses photocathode,which is 25mm in diameter. SLR lenses are not optimal for p8079hp. as for focal distance, there is an easy way to determine it - simply tape PVS-2 eyepiece to image intensifier, attach objective lens to a piece of tube you intend to use as housing. then power up the intensifier and simply slide intensifier back and forth in housing until image is sharp. measure actual distance. do it at night, iris diaphragm must be open and lens focus at infinity. this is how it looks like: http://i62.tinypic.com/xol7y1.jpg |
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USA
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Posted: 3/31/2014 10:03:23 AM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti:
it's ok to ask!
35mm refers to image size. meaning that the lens forms circular image that covers 35mm film frame. circle is even bigger than 35mm. in result,about a half of light gathered by the lens,misses photocathode,which is 25mm in diameter. SLR lenses are not optimal for p8079hp. as for focal distance, there is an easy way to determine it - simply tape PVS-2 eyepiece to image intensifier, attach objective lens to a piece of tube you intend to use as housing. then power up the intensifier and simply slide intensifier back and forth in housing until image is sharp. measure actual distance. do it at night, iris diaphragm must be open and lens focus at infinity. this is how it looks like: http://i62.tinypic.com/xol7y1.jpg Thanks again. Your set up looks very similar to what I am aiming at. |
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Posted: 4/1/2014 8:28:43 PM EST
[Last Edit: Outrider]
[#9]
I have my rig finally done and am very pleased with the performance.
I wanted to point out my objective lens mounting for anyone that may be looking for an easy way to do it. My housing is 3" PVC and the end cap is a 3" "test cap" I believe for the proper terminology. I drilled a 1" hole centered on the cap. I could then sandwich the test cap between the cmount adapter and the CCTV lens itself. This gave me a nice sturdy, flat mounting surface that is also repeatable for installation. No epoxy or permanent mount needed. i want to paint the end cap black and maybe add a neck lanyard or handle. This thing has been a lot of fun. I want to take it out to the local golf course to see what it can really do. 
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Posted: 4/2/2014 6:46:13 AM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RussellAthletic:
I have my rig finally done and am very pleased with the performance. I wanted to point out my objective lens mounting for anyone that may be looking for an easy way to do it. My housing is 3" PVC and the end cap is a 3" "test cap" I believe for the proper terminology. I drilled a 1" hole centered on the cap. I could then sandwich the test cap between the cmount adapter and the CCTV lens itself. This gave me a nice sturdy, flat mounting surface that is also repeatable for installation. No epoxy or permanent mount needed. i want to paint the end cap black and maybe add a neck lanyard or handle. This thing has been a lot of fun. I want to take it out to the local golf course to see what it can really do. <a href="http://s619.photobucket.com/user/RussellAthletic/media/nv2_zpse54333fb.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt275/RussellAthletic/nv2_zpse54333fb.jpg</a> <a href="http://s619.photobucket.com/user/RussellAthletic/media/nv1_zpsa1ab3722.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt275/RussellAthletic/nv1_zpsa1ab3722.jpg</a> Excellent idea using the test caps. What length did you cut the PVC tube? |
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Posted: 4/2/2014 10:33:07 AM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By coctailer:
Excellent idea using the test caps. What length did you cut the PVC tube? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By coctailer:
Originally Posted By RussellAthletic:
I have my rig finally done and am very pleased with the performance. I wanted to point out my objective lens mounting for anyone that may be looking for an easy way to do it. My housing is 3" PVC and the end cap is a 3" "test cap" I believe for the proper terminology. I drilled a 1" hole centered on the cap. I could then sandwich the test cap between the cmount adapter and the CCTV lens itself. This gave me a nice sturdy, flat mounting surface that is also repeatable for installation. No epoxy or permanent mount needed. i want to paint the end cap black and maybe add a neck lanyard or handle. This thing has been a lot of fun. I want to take it out to the local golf course to see what it can really do. <a href="http://s619.photobucket.com/user/RussellAthletic/media/nv2_zpse54333fb.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt275/RussellAthletic/nv2_zpse54333fb.jpg</a> <a href="http://s619.photobucket.com/user/RussellAthletic/media/nv1_zpsa1ab3722.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt275/RussellAthletic/nv1_zpsa1ab3722.jpg</a> Excellent idea using the test caps. What length did you cut the PVC tube? I cut to 8.5". A little bit of the ocular side is poking out but it doesn't bother me. It's a sturdy setup but certainly not waterproof or anything like that. I recommend it if you just want to get something up and running but without duck tape and cardboard. |
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NZL
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Posted: 4/3/2014 4:06:35 AM EST
[#12]
Just got a PVS 2 eye piece for mine. Took a few pics tonight
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/Brad_McAloon/IMG_0042_zps5f41bcae.jpg http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/Brad_McAloon/IMG_0042_zps5f41bcae.jpg http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/Brad_McAloon/IMG_0024_zps049570f1.jpg Has anybody used a Varo tube to build one of these? I am planning on mounting mine on a suppressed .44 magnum |
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NZL
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Posted: 4/3/2014 4:09:18 AM EST
[#13]
Damn double posted a pic
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/Brad_McAloon/IMG_0037_zps62d699e1.jpg http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m632/Brad_McAloon/IMG_0030_zpsb331f501.jpg Yea that is my lady, I'm not a stalker, and my camera sucks balls too just so you know |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 4/5/2014 3:55:27 PM EST
[Last Edit: chosos]
[#14]
Varo 7854 tube.
Mailing tube as a housing. Here is an early photo 
I used that blue shipping tube, and cut an extra piece the same length, and split it down the middle and double lined the wall with it to reinforce the housing. It is incredibly solid and I think it will work out great. It looks better than a cardboard shipping tube. For my battery box, I got one of these in AAA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-X-AAA-3A-Battery-Holder-Box-6V-Case-W-lead-ON-OFF-Switch-Enclosed-Box-Snap-On-/290957474652?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43be6abb5c. I finally got my lens and finished this project up. The gain is pretty good, but the whole fisheye viewing isn't really all that great since I'm spoiled with Pinnacle Gen 3 PVS-7's. This Varo intensifier is out of a PVS-2. I used an eBay front objective CCTV lens, which also allows me to adjust the light input, so it really gives this thing mechanical manual gain control - neat! For the eyepiece lens, I really just used a piece of plexi. The eyepiece from my PVS-7 didn't work out, and after toying around with this, turns out - I didn't even need an eyepiece. I'll post some pictures through the tube later tonight when it gets dark. I think I have $100 total into this build, and for $100, it is definitely worth it. Completely blows away my cheapo Night Owl NOCX Gen 1 Monocular. 
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USA
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Posted: 4/8/2014 10:58:15 AM EST
[Last Edit: JAD762]
[#15]
Finished!
This has been a long time coming & I'm glad to have gotten through the project successfully. I used a 3" aluminum tube for the body & only had maybe 1/8th of an inch between the inside of the tube and the intensifier tube to shim. I used a PVS 2 eyepiece and an old Minolta 35mm camera lens that I've had sitting in my closet for decades. The only major departure in my design from everyone else's is that I used two 3 volt coin batteries for power as opposed to 4 AA batteries. It gives the scope slimmer lines and it cuts down a bit on weight. The pictures below look like they were taken with a potato. They really don't do the scope justice. Its view is amazing! The hardware. 
The finished project. 
In our basement. Pitch black, with an IR baby camera providing illumination. 
Took some pictures outside last night. It was overcast with a crescent moon. 40 yards to the sign, probably 75 to 100 yards to the dip in the road. 
My truck at about 45 yards. 
Again, the images don't do it justice. |
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Posted: 4/12/2014 12:12:15 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1Andy2]
[#16]
Pardon if this has been answered, but which is preferable:
a 75mm f 1.6 with a 1/2" form factor OR a 50 mm f 1.4 with a 2/3" form factor? Or should I just get both and see what works best? This will theoretically be used with a 26mm 2" plossl telescope eyepiece. I'm thinking I'd just part most of the body off and then face on the lathe to expose the focal plane of the eyepiece. Aside from the difference between 2x and 3x magnification between those two objective lenses, is one running the risk of greater "fish eye" than the other due to the form factor? eta: Tubes ordered! Eypiece ordered http://www.ebay.com/itm/281305972957 Went with a no-name brand 26mm plossl telescope eyepiece. 2" form factor, so hopefully it has a decent apparent field of view. Wanted something cheap so I don't feel bad hacking on it with the lathe. Some ideas for this project are taking shape. I'd like to make it as modular as possible. I'm going to see what I can come up with for making it so eyepieces are replaceable as well as objective lenses. For the telescope eyepiece, I'm thinking a bushing made to fit the eyepiece. Bushing threads into the rear mount of the device. Eyepiece is loctited into the body. So it's glued, but not permanently so eta: Objective lens ordered. Apollo 75mm f1.4 TV lens. I think it's 1" format, but I'm not sure. Not a whole lot of info on the net about them. Paid 120 so hopefully I didn't get ripped off too badly. Between that, the tube, and the plossl eyepiece, about $290 into the project so far. I was shooting for a budget of $350, so I may hit that target. |
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Posted: 4/13/2014 5:58:37 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chosos:
Varo 7854 tube. Mailing tube as a housing. Here is an early photo http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs-2.jpg I used that blue shipping tube, and cut an extra piece the same length, and split it down the middle and double lined the wall with it to reinforce the housing. It is incredibly solid and I think it will work out great. It looks better than a cardboard shipping tube. For my battery box, I got one of these in AAA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-X-AAA-3A-Battery-Holder-Box-6V-Case-W-lead-ON-OFF-Switch-Enclosed-Box-Snap-On-/290957474652?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43be6abb5c. I finally got my lens and finished this project up. The gain is pretty good, but the whole fisheye viewing isn't really all that great since I'm spoiled with Pinnacle Gen 3 PVS-7's. This Varo intensifier is out of a PVS-2. I used an eBay front objective CCTV lens, which also allows me to adjust the light input, so it really gives this thing mechanical manual gain control - neat! For the eyepiece lens, I really just used a piece of plexi. The eyepiece from my PVS-7 didn't work out, and after toying around with this, turns out - I didn't even need an eyepiece. I'll post some pictures through the tube later tonight when it gets dark. I think I have $100 total into this build, and for $100, it is definitely worth it. Completely blows away my cheapo Night Owl NOCX Gen 1 Monocular. http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs2-1.jpg http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs2-2.jpg http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs2-3.jpg http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs2-4.jpg http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs2-5.jpg http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs2-6.jpg http://www.ifshtf.com/pic/nvg/pvs2-7.jpg Chosos, did you list it up on ebay? If not, someone is using your images to sell something they don't have. |
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Posted: 4/13/2014 6:09:55 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JAD762:
Finished! This has been a long time coming & I'm glad to have gotten through the project successfully. I used a 3" aluminum tube for the body & only had maybe 1/8th of an inch between the inside of the tube and the intensifier tube to shim. I used a PVS 2 eyepiece and an old Minolta 35mm camera lens that I've had sitting in my closet for decades. The only major departure in my design from everyone else's is that I used two 3 volt coin batteries for power as opposed to 4 AA batteries. It gives the scope slimmer lines and it cuts down a bit on weight. The pictures below look like they were taken with a potato. They really don't do the scope justice. Its view is amazing! The hardware. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2124_zps7657c1c7.jpg The finished project. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2139_zpse801a8ab.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2140_zps7186e91b.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2142_zpse214b9a5.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2145_zps7f6c788d.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2147_zps34074774.jpg In our basement. Pitch black, with an IR baby camera providing illumination. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2130_zpscd41a8a6.jpg Took some pictures outside last night. It was overcast with a crescent moon. 40 yards to the sign, probably 75 to 100 yards to the dip in the road. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2131_zps20ebbdc3.jpg My truck at about 45 yards. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2137_zps16d0f7f4.jpg Again, the images don't do it justice. Got a link to your power supply housing? I like it better than my AA housing. What's the battery life going to be like compared to AA? |
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USA
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Posted: 4/13/2014 8:53:22 PM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By coctailer:
Got a link to your power supply housing? I like it better than my AA housing. What's the battery life going to be like compared to AA? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By coctailer:
Originally Posted By JAD762:
Finished! This has been a long time coming & I'm glad to have gotten through the project successfully. I used a 3" aluminum tube for the body & only had maybe 1/8th of an inch between the inside of the tube and the intensifier tube to shim. I used a PVS 2 eyepiece and an old Minolta 35mm camera lens that I've had sitting in my closet for decades. The only major departure in my design from everyone else's is that I used two 3 volt coin batteries for power as opposed to 4 AA batteries. It gives the scope slimmer lines and it cuts down a bit on weight. The pictures below look like they were taken with a potato. They really don't do the scope justice. Its view is amazing! The hardware. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2124_zps7657c1c7.jpg The finished project. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2139_zpse801a8ab.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2140_zps7186e91b.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2142_zpse214b9a5.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2145_zps7f6c788d.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2147_zps34074774.jpg In our basement. Pitch black, with an IR baby camera providing illumination. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2130_zpscd41a8a6.jpg Took some pictures outside last night. It was overcast with a crescent moon. 40 yards to the sign, probably 75 to 100 yards to the dip in the road. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2131_zps20ebbdc3.jpg My truck at about 45 yards. http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/JAD762/DSCN2137_zps16d0f7f4.jpg Again, the images don't do it justice. Got a link to your power supply housing? I like it better than my AA housing. What's the battery life going to be like compared to AA? Sure http://www.adafruit.com/products/783?gclid=CLu4l8Lt3r0CFYY7MgodDFQA3w I have no idea what battery life is going to be like. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/16/2014 11:34:55 PM EST
[#20]
After reading this thread several times and some correspondence with CJ7hawk, I completed my build a few months ago. I used a clear Alvin mailing tube as the body ( which I think is awesome because I can show friends the guts and how it works without disassembling it), a piece of pvc painted black as a spacer for my lens, a old Zenit night vision lens, and the pvs-2 eyepiece. Also added a sling because carrying the brick while out walking SUCKED.
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jashirley45/IMG_12301_zps1c40edda.jpg I just came up with this cheapo Iphone adapter by jamming the threaded ring that came with the eyepiece into a piece of pvc, and then gluing an old magpul case on top. Works great! http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jashirley45/IMG_12311_zpsfdb62417.jpg http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jashirley45/IMG_12321_zpsd223c022.jpg http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jashirley45/IMG_12331_zpsf4c4502b.jpg Made a case from a plano four pistol box. http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jashirley45/IMG_12291_zpsbf41555c.jpg Thanks CJ7hawk! |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 4/18/2014 11:06:24 AM EST
[#21]
Yeah, I listed it. I want to free up the cash for another project. Since I own gen 3 there's no reason for me to hang on to it.
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Posted: 4/18/2014 4:45:02 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1Andy2]
[#22]
Got my objective lens in the mail today. Looks good. The front of the housing is a bit dinged up, so I would probably have trouble putting a filter on it... but I don't plan on doing that so no big deal.
The glass look clear and scratch free. Also got my C mount adapter piece, and it threads onto the rear of the lens perfectly. 75mm Apollo MC TV lens. F1.4. Manual iris. Manual focus. I can't tell if the manual focus is working or not. I'm holding up away from my eye in front of my computer monitor until the text goes into focus, then turning the focus to try to make it go out of focus but nothing is happening. eta: never mind, I think I've got it figured out. It's a pretty minor adjustment (maybe half an inch of linear adjustment) so it's hard to see a difference just holding it in front of my face, but it is moving the lens forward and backward in relation to the mount end, so it should work. Anyone know anything about these? |
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Posted: 4/19/2014 5:57:37 PM EST
[#23]
Found a decent 19mm 70 degree afov eyepiece I'm going to try using as well. Going to make the device such that I can switch eyepieces back and forth.
That should give me 4x magnification with the 19mm and 3x with the 26mm, using my 75mm Apollo lens. I'm thinking the 19mm is superior anyways, but we'll see how it goes. I'm guessing there's a point of diminishing returns as far as light passed through the ocular vs magnification goes, right? 4x mag is about as high a magnification I think I'd want for a NV spotting scope, anyways. |
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FIN
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Posted: 5/24/2014 12:26:12 PM EST
[Last Edit: murtis]
[#24]
I'm new to cascade NV systems but been a bit interested in building one.
Just one question about the distortion, as it seems like it's pincushion distortion, would it be possible to put a lense between the last tube and eyepiece that applies suitable barrel distortion to bring it back to somewhat an even image? Edit: here's one of Beavis6940's pictures from above with barrel distortion applied. Aren't aspheric lenses capable of doing exactly this? I suppose the eyepiece should be of custom design instead of adding extra optics to the middle. 
Just tell me if it's stupid, just sounds to me as something that could be fixed with only one simple lens. |
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LVA
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Posted: 5/24/2014 1:24:52 PM EST
[#25]
FO correcting plate may help somewhat.
i have one,but it is from 18mm tube,not suitable for p8079... |
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USA
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Posted: 5/28/2014 7:12:29 AM EST
[Last Edit: bdan47]
[#26]
Hey guys I ordered an intensifier tube from Starlight almost a week ago, but never heard anything from them (but PayPal confirmed my payment so...). I was wondering how long does it usually take them to answer emails.
Has anyone had bad experiences with them? Should I have ordered from Anchor? Thanks |
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LVA
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Posted: 5/29/2014 11:01:00 AM EST
[#27]
hi!
i bought four tubes from Starlight,had no problems so far. tubes were well packaged,in good working condition.
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AUS
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Posted: 6/5/2014 2:55:41 PM EST
[#28]
Here's some pics through David's 3D printed model of the cascade project. These pics were taken some months back, from memory these were taken on a half moon and a crystal clear summers night with scattered cloud. Pics taken at around midnight with the moon on top of me.
I took a few foxes this night looking for quail's in the stubble, I was using the cascade as a Sotting scope. 
Pic of a couple of read coats fallen ill from a 55grn panadol rapid. 
I've also just about finished mine, so far up one firing it up ( slapped together with tape ) the tube I got is pretty good. I want to extend my thanks to my friend David, for giving me green feaver, the minister of war and finance ..... Knows were the money's going now hahaha :) |
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AR, USA
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Posted: 6/5/2014 6:03:05 PM EST
[#29]
Anybody have a source for a PVS 2 eyepiece?
Been searching for a few weeks now with no luck. |
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Posted: 6/5/2014 6:12:22 PM EST
[Last Edit: ACDer]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By YaMaMa:
Anybody have a source for a PVS 2 eyepiece? Been searching for a few weeks now with no luck. Search ?varo night vision" on ebay. http://m.ebay.com/itm/131115752827?nav=SEARCH |
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USA
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Posted: 6/7/2014 2:45:28 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti:
hi! i bought four tubes from Starlight,had no problems so far. tubes were well packaged,in good working condition.
Perfect thanks for your reply! On a side note what is the advantage of using the pvs eyepiece, other than the fact that it fights right into the tube? Do you get less fish eye or anything like that? |
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LVA
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Posted: 6/8/2014 1:21:30 AM EST
[#32]
it's just convenient to work with and has diopter adjustment.
i see no fisheye correction effect. |
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Posted: 6/12/2014 7:58:13 AM EST
[Last Edit: cj7hawk]
[#33]
OK, with respect to the original PVS-2 style eyepieces - which are VERY convenient and make this a simple project... Here you will find two STL files ( just like the 3D printed AR15 ! ) - The first is the objective end - just clean up, soften it around the flange with some solvent, and you can fit a 5mm C-mount spacer in there as a metal threaded flange... The spacers cost about $3 each. The second is the ocular end - and it's designed to take the VARO style lens - just slot it in, then fit the tube between them, open up the holes a little more with a file or drill ( I kept them close and tight ) and assemble with some 3mm threaded rod. Then just add power - :) Easy - I don't know what it will cost to print the parts. If you know someone with a printer, then a few dollars. Otherwise it should be possible to print out at most UPS stores - and they will quote on it - Just ask for ABS plastic. Should cost well under $100. These two parts make it much easier to assemble - everything snaps together and the focal lengths are all planned out - but if you can't get infinity focus ( ie, the flange is too far from the photocathode )then a flat bastard file ( what do you call those in the US? ) gently and slowly ( keep it flat !!! ) will take off tenths of a millimeter at a pass... And you can get it perfectly 17.5mm for all C-mount lenses. Hope this helps :) These two files are PUBLIC DOMAIN so can be copied and sent anywhere. Feel free to use in manufacturing... Whatever. Regards David |
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Posted: 6/12/2014 2:41:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: Dino1130]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj7hawk:
OK, with respect to the original PVS-2 style eyepieces - which are VERY convenient and make this a simple project... http://aunv.blackice.com.au/cgi-bin/nightvision/forum?index=projects&story=cascade&chapter=3DplasticVARO&function=read Here you will find two STL files ( just like the 3D printed AR15 ! ) - The first is the objective end - just clean up, soften it around the flange with some solvent, and you can fit a 5mm C-mount spacer in there as a metal threaded flange... The spacers cost about $3 each. The second is the ocular end - and it's designed to take the VARO style lens - just slot it in, then fit the tube between them, open up the holes a little more with a file or drill ( I kept them close and tight ) and assemble with some 3mm threaded rod. Then just add power - :) Easy - I don't know what it will cost to print the parts. If you know someone with a printer, then a few dollars. Otherwise it should be possible to print out at most UPS stores - and they will quote on it - Just ask for ABS plastic. Should cost well under $100. These two parts make it much easier to assemble - everything snaps together and the focal lengths are all planned out - but if you can't get infinity focus ( ie, the flange is too far from the photocathode )then a flat bastard file ( what do you call those in the US? ) gently and slowly ( keep it flat !!! ) will take off tenths of a millimeter at a pass... And you can get it perfectly 17.5mm for all C-mount lenses. Hope this helps :) These two files are PUBLIC DOMAIN so can be copied and sent anywhere. Feel free to use in manufacturing... Whatever. Regards David We call them a flat file or just a file with a flat side.  We don't have any fat bastard files that I know of. We have fat bastards but that is another story .  Don't worry though, you are still the only Aussie that knows what a bloomin onion is. The bartender at mine is still an English chap with a fake Aussie accent (fat bastard too). Next time I see him I will ask if he knows anything about files.
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AR, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2014 3:02:27 PM EST
[#35]
All parts ordered, aluminum tubing and Al rounds should be here in a week!
Will be posting some pictures of the tube build process on a metal lathe. Including tripod mount and picatinny rails. I have a few extra 3-48 screws for the positive wire if anybody is in need. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/16/2014 7:11:12 AM EST
[#36]
Hey Guys,
I'm new here in some sense. I have been following this thread for a while and finally rigged up my Night Vision Scop. I've noticed a lot of people have been asking about the varo eyepiece, I originally bought the pvs2 eyepiece but found myself using a plossl eyepiece instead. Now I have a varo eyepiece but no use for it so I am happy to discus a price for it just pm me. The only catch is that I live in australia and am not sure what international shipping fares are so if anyone is interested I can find out a quote for shipping that will be on top of the price that is worked out. I'm new to this thread so I'm not sure if saying that will get me banned I am very sorry and didnt realise I wasn't allowed to say that if I do get banned. I'm not sure how to upload photos of my scope, can anyone tell me how please? |
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Posted: 6/16/2014 9:02:53 PM EST
[#37]
Sorry if this has been answered, but I must have missed it.
Is there a reason to order from Starlight instead of Anchor? Anchor is quite a bit cheaper it seems. |
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LVA
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Posted: 6/17/2014 4:20:34 AM EST
[#38]
Anchor supply charge more for shipping.
55 pounds for tube itself,plus 35 pounds for shipping to LV, if i remember correctly. shipping to US probably will cost even more. 
i bought from them a p8079 (non HP) model of tube. |
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AR, USA
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Posted: 6/19/2014 11:28:21 AM EST
[Last Edit: YaMaMa]
[#39]
Had time to turn some metal...
All 6061 Aluminum, 3" tube with 2.75" inside diameter, 3"x2" rounds. And some flat bar 1/4"x1" 
Cascade tube and PVS2 ocular. 
First was to cut the tube to about 10", this took hours because my strong arm was made for a 3" pipe and was just a hair tight on one side. So a file and a bit of test fitting later it was cut to 10". 
Cutting down and threading the PVS2 ocular lens. 28tpi x 2.893" if I remember correctly. The inside of the Al tube was cut to utilize the oring on the pvs2. 
Great fit! 
Threading a front cap. Internal. Went with a 28 tpi and a end cap match. First cap was smaller as I am still waiting for my c mount extender. So another was made to the 17.52mm From lens to PC. 
End cap. With 1" hole for c mount lens. 
Drilled holes for power and neg, also drilled and tapped some for a few picatinny rails. Rails have the perfect curve, UTG MB500T. 
Clean, and assemble. 
Solder neg wire to ring next to PC, attach + wire with screw, mount battery holder. Final product. Attached a TNVC Torch Pro for IR illumination. 
As I am out of Velcro at the moment I attached the battery holder with tape for the time being. A new dual watch battery hold will be installed shortly. Now just need to drill and tap a tripod mount. 50mm f1.4 cctv c mount lens was used. All metal was bought for $50 shipped, with enough extra for another tube. A few night pics, still trying to focus the camera, iphone Night pic no ir, no moon, under street lamp. 40yds away 
Dog, about 6 feet away, inside, ir on 
Inside , down hallway, ir on. Far wall 15yds, mirror reflecting ir. 
ETA: Tripod mount, 1/4"x1" Al bar, sanded a curve to match the radius of the tube. Also mounted battery holder. Had the watch battery holder which was smaller but kept shorting out so went back to the 4 AA. 
Completed, without paint, not sure what color or type of paint to use. Sling, grip, ir torch pro 
Thanks for all the complements and for the inspiration. With the right tools you can do some great work, you just have to know how to use the tool. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/19/2014 1:30:20 PM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By YaMaMa:
Had time to turn some metal... All 6061 Aluminum, 3" tube with 2.75" inside diameter, 3"x2" rounds. And some flat bar 1/4"x1" http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/3A442456-A473-4BB4-B685-872E3E05BD54_zpspazlscpn.jpg Cascade tube and PVS2 ocular. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/BAEB80C6-20F6-4590-B711-C4CCEED8E78C_zps0zpidl39.jpg First was to cut the tube to about 10", this took hours because my strong arm was made for a 3" pipe and was just a hair tight on one side. So a file and a bit of test fitting later it was cut to 10". http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/365F03F0-39D1-49A0-840A-CB18B8D687F3_zpsbgksfjiy.jpg Cutting down and threading the PVS2 ocular lens. 28tpi x 2.893" if I remember correctly. The inside of the Al tube was cut to utilize the oring on the pvs2. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/89486768-D6F6-4BC0-B36F-29914E4DF04B_zpshqsxsnjx.jpg Great fit! http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/3EDF2EA1-442E-465A-9470-71E2679591BB_zps72foozm3.jpg Threading a front cap. Internal. Went with a 28 tpi and a end cap match. First cap was smaller as I am still waiting for my c mount extender. So another was made to the 17.52mm From lens to PC. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/3722DB59-84FE-4D9B-A4FA-C075C58E585F_zps1mmy15kw.jpg End cap. With 1" hole for c mount lens. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/C2F59918-72D7-4194-B5EA-7D6B239A38E5_zpstuqstkz0.jpg Drilled holes for power and neg, also drilled and tapped some for a few picatinny rails. Rails have the perfect curve, UTG MB500T. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/EAF97DC9-3ED1-4CD6-92EF-5E00E92B0CD6_zps6rlvrjeb.jpg http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/BF66898E-53D4-4416-ADC6-219F6055F3EC_zpsmvfof07e.jpg Clean, and assemble. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/6CD08EA7-67DC-46D4-A80A-4F0291EAADEB_zpskqwyccuh.jpg Solder neg wire to ring next to PC, attach + wire with screw, mount battery holder. Final product. Attached a TNVC Torch Pro for IR illumination. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/6624D89F-007B-4454-88D7-C8FC0639FDAB_zpsjar3odel.jpg As I am out of Velcro at the moment I attached the battery holder with tape for the time being. A new dual watch battery hold will be installed shortly. Now just need to drill and tap a tripod mount. 50mm f1.4 cctv c mount lens was used. All metal was bought for $50 shipped, with enough extra for another tube. A few night pics, still trying to focus the camera, iphone Night pic no ir, no moon, under street lamp. 40yds away http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/3FA968EC-9801-4DF5-BD4D-BBBF09F91AA7_zpsr2phajc4.jpg Dog, about 6 feet away, inside, ir on http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/7469B537-516F-44DA-9715-F906CAE70982_zpsei3exlev.jpg Inside , down hallway, ir on. Far wall 15yds, mirror reflecting ir. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/YaMaMa315/Mobile%20Uploads/B5A0ADF5-FFEF-4B66-8BCA-1F123E1CC5F3_zpsdxgdennk.jpg Nice job! Very professional. |
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Posted: 6/20/2014 9:24:17 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By YaMaMa: Nice Job !! |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 8/3/2014 8:57:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: rochte]
[#42]
For those printing cj7hawk's objective lens holder on a PLA-based 3D printer (like a Makerbot Replicator 2), note that you cannot use solvent to affix the C-mount spacer. Instead, you'll need to use heat.
I bought one of the C-mount spacers for a dollar or so online, then heated it with a propane torch (being sure to move the flame around) until the black anodizing started to turn colour. I then quickly set it into the pocket on the printed objective lens holder and used a piece of 2x4 to press it flat. Immediately after pressing it flush, I dropped the entire assembly into a bucket of water to cool the spacer. The result was perfect and there's no chance of the spacer coming out of the printed lens holder. (Sorry, I didn't take any pics during this whole process!) |
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Posted: 8/3/2014 9:08:05 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti: Anchor supply charge more for shipping. 55 pounds for tube itself,plus 35 pounds for shipping to LV, if i remember correctly. shipping to US probably will cost even more. i bought from them a p8079 (non HP) model of tube. Sadly Starlight doesn't seem to answer email.  |
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USA
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Posted: 8/6/2014 5:44:56 AM EST
[#44]
Hello,
i want to ask you, what is your experience with Starlight NV? I bough a cascade tube from them 3 months ago. it came after 1 month, but the photocathode was physically broken and the unit didnt work. I contacted Starlight, and they said that post damaged it and they have no problem to send another. (tube was packed in bubble wrap and a very tight cardboard box with extra bubble wrap layer on photocathode) So far good (except 1 month shipping time between 2 Countries, that are in EU) After another month of waiting, i wrote them an email that i still didnt receive it and asked about delivery time. No reply. After 2 weeks, i wrote another email, again - no reply. Today, i wrote another email and im still waiting to get my working tube. Do you know, what had happened to them? They had quite a good reputation here in this thread. |
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USA
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Posted: 8/6/2014 11:20:23 AM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dudosk:
Hello, i want to ask you, what is your experience with Starlight NV? I bough a cascade tube from them 3 months ago. it came after 1 month, but the photocathode was physically broken and the unit didnt work. I contacted Starlight, and they said that post damaged it and they have no problem to send another. (tube was packed in bubble wrap and a very tight cardboard box with extra bubble wrap layer on photocathode) So far good (except 1 month shipping time between 2 Countries, that are in EU) After another month of waiting, i wrote them an email that i still didnt receive it and asked about delivery time. No reply. After 2 weeks, i wrote another email, again - no reply. Today, i wrote another email and im still waiting to get my working tube. Do you know, what had happened to them? They had quite a good reputation here in this thread. I was originally worried about my shipping (to EU) as well, but after a month and a half the package arrived perfectly intact. They do seem to answer emails only once in a while however. On another note I was looking at their website and saw the Mullard xx1306 gen 2 tube. Does anyone have experience with it? Would it be feasible to use it for a head mounted setup? Thanks |
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Posted: 8/11/2014 1:45:44 AM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bdan47: I was originally worried about my shipping (to EU) as well, but after a month and a half the package arrived perfectly intact. They do seem to answer emails only once in a while however. On another note I was looking at their website and saw the Mullard xx1306 gen 2 tube. Does anyone have experience with it? Would it be feasible to use it for a head mounted setup? Thanks Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bdan47: Originally Posted By Dudosk: Hello, i want to ask you, what is your experience with Starlight NV? I bough a cascade tube from them 3 months ago. it came after 1 month, but the photocathode was physically broken and the unit didnt work. I contacted Starlight, and they said that post damaged it and they have no problem to send another. (tube was packed in bubble wrap and a very tight cardboard box with extra bubble wrap layer on photocathode) So far good (except 1 month shipping time between 2 Countries, that are in EU) After another month of waiting, i wrote them an email that i still didnt receive it and asked about delivery time. No reply. After 2 weeks, i wrote another email, again - no reply. Today, i wrote another email and im still waiting to get my working tube. Do you know, what had happened to them? They had quite a good reputation here in this thread. I was originally worried about my shipping (to EU) as well, but after a month and a half the package arrived perfectly intact. They do seem to answer emails only once in a while however. On another note I was looking at their website and saw the Mullard xx1306 gen 2 tube. Does anyone have experience with it? Would it be feasible to use it for a head mounted setup? Thanks Yes, Yes and Yes... I did design a monocular that takes the xx1306 and the plans are available in Australia at least. It' big and heavy, but it is possible to head-mount. It also has an integrated rail-grabber, so can be used behind a reflex sight and had a number of additional rails, and one version incorporated a 850nm IR laser for aiming, like a Mantis. I wouldn't describe it as great, but it was functional.... Anyway, it was still lighter than a dual-monocular from memory... And I even managed to get the size comparable to a PVS-14.... No easy task. Next to a fake swiss army knife for comparison. Model number DBT-53 (53mm tube)  Inside the US, I'd advise going for a 36mm Gen3 tube, or a MX9916 instead if you want to head mount it. David
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USA
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Posted: 8/12/2014 7:11:56 AM EST
[#47]
Thank you David! unfortunately here in the old continent gen 3 tubes are mil/le only
 . Moreover the xx1306 is a gen 2 that doesn't break the bank.
Where can I find the plans for the build? Are they available online? Thank you again Daniel |
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Posted: 8/12/2014 8:17:40 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bdan47: Thank you David! unfortunately here in the old continent gen 3 tubes are mil/le only . Moreover the xx1306 is a gen 2 that doesn't break the bank.Where can I find the plans for the build? Are they available online? Thank you again Daniel Ahh, that makes sense... Well, under those circumstances, it's doable - Best to treat what I posted as an example, though I can find out if it's controlled or not and will post the plans if it's not. It usually takes about a month to find out. David
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USA
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Posted: 8/14/2014 8:10:01 AM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj7hawk:
Ahh, that makes sense... Well, under those circumstances, it's doable - Best to treat what I posted as an example, though I can find out if it's controlled or not and will post the plans if it's not. It usually takes about a month to find out. David Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By bdan47:
Thank you David! unfortunately here in the old continent gen 3 tubes are mil/le only . Moreover the xx1306 is a gen 2 that doesn't break the bank.
Where can I find the plans for the build? Are they available online? Thank you again Daniel Ahh, that makes sense... Well, under those circumstances, it's doable - Best to treat what I posted as an example, though I can find out if it's controlled or not and will post the plans if it's not. It usually takes about a month to find out. David Awesome thank you again! 
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GBR
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Posted: 8/18/2014 6:40:07 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dudosk:
Hello, i want to ask you, what is your experience with Starlight NV? I bough a cascade tube from them 3 months ago. it came after 1 month, but the photocathode was physically broken and the unit didnt work. I contacted Starlight, and they said that post damaged it and they have no problem to send another. (tube was packed in bubble wrap and a very tight cardboard box with extra bubble wrap layer on photocathode) So far good (except 1 month shipping time between 2 Countries, that are in EU) After another month of waiting, i wrote them an email that i still didnt receive it and asked about delivery time. No reply. After 2 weeks, i wrote another email, again - no reply. Today, i wrote another email and im still waiting to get my working tube. Do you know, what had happened to them? They had quite a good reputation here in this thread. Hi, just seen this, I trust you have a new tube, if not e-mail & it will be answered. WE get absolutely hammered with e-mails each day. You can make a rifle scope from a cascade tube or an XX1306 type, what you need is a hefty zero box like an ELCAN mount to move the tube. Get a printing shop to screen print a cross hair very fine on a clear slightly tacky plastic film of the type that is used to cover photocathodes. This is placed inverted in the case of a V chevron on the front of the tube. The zero box zsero's it and it must be done at night or the lens pin hole focus will be yonks off in the night if you day zero. Regards, Julian. PS I only come on here occasionally, CJHawk is clever enough to take the questions from here (Hi David hope UR well). |
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