Yeah it probably would.  I know this sounds gaye but have you considered rolling the canteens to the two middle spots, and moving IFAK, E&E kit, etc to the outboard positions?  I usually run a 3-pouch set up cuz that's all my skinny ass will take, if I want to keep the mag pouches on the hips. So if you can lose one pouch that is "A" solution.  Or get one of those Brit "Bum rolls", that sits atop the center pouches.  If you pack a poncho or jacket in there, it MIGHT be stiff enough to provide an interface for support.  Or, pack something harder in center pouches to catch frame.  Thinking maybe canteen cups, packed ON TOP of contents (cook stove, heat tabs, instant shit, etc.).  Or maybe even some kind of small Pelican hard case to contain items in, to give pouch rigidity (oh my).

You know, maybe it would be "a good idea" if someone made a hard plastic "bear vault" insert for these pouches, that the ruck could sit on.  C'mon you 3d printer guys.  Hell even lining the damn things with a thin plastic laminate might do the trick.

IIRC, Tactical Tailor used to offer various types of plastic "vaults" but I don't see them currently offered.  Seems that they've "trimmed-down" on many items not i their "core" list.  Quick search found these: Plastic Storage Boxes   Trick is to match the external dimensions of any such box to internal dimensions of pouch(es) used, and whether the reduced internal capacity of the plastic box is suitable.  Strongly suggest that these plastic boxes, if carried inside a typical nylon pouch, have rounded corners, and user should make certain that any and all sharp edges/corners be "rounded-off" lest the plastic box eventually abrade the pouch's fabric--or poke the user.
 
Ordered about $275 worth of "Boundless Voyage" titanium water/cooking gear from amazon, after doing considerable research.  "Found" many multicam pouches suitable for "back shelf' use.  Don't foresee any problems on that score.  Yoke for side pockets of "longback" Brit Bergen arrived and is washed and drying.    Ordered 2 x 12" tall water bottle carriers from Maxpedition on a BOGO sale.  Ordered "Tan" in case dyeing is necessary.  "Found" my 2 GI Arctic canteens (both with cup and OD nylon ALICE carrier).  Also "found" my two Stainless steel water bottles (with Aluminum nesting cup, Nalgene adaptor, and multicam 10" tall Condor carrier).

Next step is to obtain proper size "Hippo belt" and the yoke for it.  With any luck, will be next month.

Well thanks to All of the good advice I 'bit the bullet' and ordered A JayJays Hippo Belt, TBC...
Bring on the BEAR BOX!!

Hell yeah.  I just ordered some laminate to play with.  Sorta similar to the old GI 3-mag pouches (brought to you by "Arkansas Industries for the Blind").  Maybe even in combination with some thin polyester "interface" for additional stiffness and some insulation, like ye old GI canteen pouches.

I'd like to see what you come up with.

I have some USGI wool neck scratchers made by Brown County Association For Retarded Citizens.

not mine, just found in a facebook group. I asked the person for an opposite side pic and a kitlist, as it looks cool.

@ridinshotgun, I was told these silicon gaskets are perfect fit for the Pattern 58 canteens. I'm going to give them a shot...

https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256801606193556.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.29901802trvCIA&gatewayAdapt=gloPc2usaMsite4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

Forgot the dimensions 42 OD x 33 Inner diameter, 5mm thick.

ROCK6

At the risk of become too technical there are "High-Temperature" O-rings.  Some of the various plastics don't work well with water or steam, but some do: Hi-Temp O-Rings

Received "Boundless Voyage" titanium items just now.  I'll need to take a close look at how the items interface with USGI canteen carriers, canteens, and so forth.  Will report.

It's understood that I'm going about assembling a belt rig bass-ackwards; buying component parts before buying Hippo belt+yoke. It will all work out. In the long run, I hope that my comments on this stuff will be seen as pertinent to this thread when taken in context.

After much investigation I chose Boundless Voyage items because their 1050 cylindrical water bottle had Nalgene-type threads and decent interface to all Nalgene caps and similarly threaded water filters. Some BV items seem to have some compatibility with accepting GI canteens and so forth.  It was my choice to select certain BV items (Ti Pot with Stove Set) items for backward compatibility with GI items already owned.  There are many other excellent Ti items offered, but some BV items suited my needs best.  YMMV.

Items received:  BV Titanium 1050ml cylindrical water bottle (with Nalgene cap threads), BV Titanium "Pot With Stove Set" (including pot lid), and BV Titanium "Canteen Cooking Set", with lid.  Nalgene threads on 1050 cylindrical water bottle useful for some water filters which have outputs threaded for such, like the Katadyn Combi, and perhaps other systems. Nalgene-type Caps and Adaptors abound.  1050ml water came with a decent black neoprene sleeve with 1" wide shoulder strap, which I feel is too narrow for the weight; YMMV.

My understanding is that the BV Titanium "Pot With Stove Set" will accept all USGI canteens whether metal or plastic, as well as Oasis plastic canteens, but will NOT accept BV Ti canteen.  Will Report.  ETA: Fits Oasis plastic canteen; only GI-type I've tried so far.  Ensemble with Oasis canteen will "just" fit inside GI MOLLE canteen/utility pouch, for reference.

BV "Canteen Cooking Set" will "just" fit inside GI MOLLE "Canteen/Utility Pouch".  Some externally-threaded Kleenkanteen and Hydroflask caps will fit the BV titanium canteen, which opens up some alternatives.

Unfortunately ordered wrong Toaks 450ml cup which was intended to "nest" with the Ti water bottle; Returning it and ordering wider diameter Toaks 750ml pot (with lid and bail) in its' place.  ETA: 750 ml pot nests onto the water bottle.  Some extra space causes rattle.  Perhaps some silicone bands on the bottle will solve the problem.

BV "Canteen and Cooking Set" nylon MOLLE pouch is unexpectedly well made, having taped edges of the fabric.  Unfortunately, the "external" pouch on the BV canteen carrier required being turned inside-out in order to correct many issues; once addressed, should be reasonably durable. No drain grommet on either main pouch or external pouch, but that is easily remedied.  Unsure if their version of MOLLE straps will interface well with mil-spec MOLLE/PALS webbing.  will report.

Digital Desert camo canteen pouch can be dyed, if desired, either brown or green.  Metal snaps on MOLLE straps do not attract a magnet, so possibly brass.  IDK how long the supplied BV pouch will hold up, hence investigating other pouch alternatives.  Smallish zipper pull tabs might stand some add-on cordage.  Will report.

I will probably buy a Keith/HeavyCover canteen/cup/stove because the Keith "GI-Style" canteen should fit within the BV "Pot with Stove" set which allows all GI type canteens to be carried, as well as the Keith Ti canteen, but NOT the BV canteen.   Reason for these somewhat contradictory choices is that the BV "cup/pot" items have lugs on their outsides which allow the included suspension cables to suspend them from a tripod, thus allowing user to determine the amount of heat they receive.  Another point in favor of the BV items is that they can be arranged as a double-boiler, with lid.

Giving some thought to both winter use, when metal wide mouth canteens might need to be directly heated, and also to the (unlikely) need for a GI canteen with gas mask output/cap.  Yes, I have GI "Arctic" canteens+cups+"modern" ALICE type nylon pouches.  One of them even came with a retrofitted gas mask drinking cap.

I am still finding my way around the cooking/water vessel subject, even after watching many YouTube vids and posts on a lot of relevant sites.  Very few people have mentioned how such new Ti items interface with previously owned GI items and their pouches/carriers.

I admit to being something of a "nerd" on some subjects, and far from an "Expert".  Just reporting things as they are.

 ETA: have ordered some "Large" and "Medium" Dutch MOLLE compatible pouches from sportsman's guide as possible back-up pouches.   Also ordered some other pouches as they seemed "useful" for particular needs.
All for now.

@ROCK6

Thanks for that.  Let me know how they work.  I was really hoping to find a direct substitute for the water bottle since at this point it is a collectible with how rare they are.  

Guess I'll just stick with the crusader set up until someone comes into their right mind and produces a substitute metal water bottle!

So instead of going the bespoke kit route, I am going to try putting together a kit from the Dutch Molle pouches from Sportmans Guide (currently ordered, but not supposed to ship until April 20th or so) and the Sord USA belt.  The Sord belt came in, and it looks like ti will give the coverage needed, but it is not padded at all. Basically to pieces of nylon sandwiching what feels like some plastic stiffener.  It should be easy enough to sew on some padding, but the only spacer mesh I can find is 1/8 inch(3MM), which seems kind of thin for the purpose.  

@DIZ  Can you advise on a source for the padded spacer mesh? Etsy and a place called Ripstop by The Roll, only seem to have the thinner stuff.  Or is it as simple as putting a couple layers together? Thanks in advance.

I'm certainly no Expert on the belt-mounted kit ensemble, but I believe the addition of some sort of mesh between the belt and the user is very important in allowing the belt to "breathe" and dissipate moisture.

I have multiple GI pistol belt pads made out of non-absorbent foam and encapsulated in typical waterproof fabric.  We've all seen them.

Such pads are initially more comfortable, but sure-fire sweat points, IMHO.  Having tried out all the alternatives, I'm gravitating towards some sort of waist belt, likely with internal mesh, which allows some sort of decent sweat/water disposal.  YMMV.  As always, I buy all the "cheap" alternatives before learning that the more expensive alternatives are the better alternatives.  YMMV.

Ha ha don't we all.

Well two ways to go with this.  Spacer mesh solves one problem but creates another.  It's perfect for ventilation,  but it can clog with whatever you're running around in.  If you go that route, talk to Mike over at OC Tactical.  That's where I usually buy it.  Tell 'em I sent ya and he'll probably charge you double ha ha.

Another way.  For the DIY'er.  Get some polyester (NOT cotton) batting, used in making quilts.  Add in some kind of "interfacing", used to add stiffness to garments.  Also synthetic.  Experiment with how thick you want to go.  I put the "batting" next to me, for padding comfort, and the "interface" next to pouch side for rigidity.  This is very similar to what Crossfire does with their suspension systems.  It's very comfortable but sheds water and dries very quickly (that's why you have to stay synthetic).  You can get both batting and interface at any good sewing supply.

How thick is up to you.  I goldilocks mine at about 1/4".  Good balance between comfort and shedding water efficiently.  Also depends on what thickness your machine can handle.

I hope this isn't too off-topic, but does anyone have a good source for the Crusader canteen cup? I feel like I need to augment my P58 kit with at least one.

Sweaty and smelling like a goat is all part of the ambiance.

@lew

I had no luck finding anyone domestically that had them.  Ended up ordering the cup and some other cook accessories (crusader II stove, fresh canteen, and cup cover) from Kitmonster in the UK.  Jay jays carries them too but is out of stock.

https://www.kitmonster.co.uk/index.php/cPath/37

https://www.jayjaysbrecon.co.uk/outdoor-equipment/mess-tins-metal-mugs/crusader-cup-mk1-black__3942

Coupla things.  Ebay all day long for Crusader cups, cookers, etc.  

On modifying a belt.  Two ways to go about it.  Just sandwich on new layers, as you're thinking about.  Or.  Taking it apart and adding padding layers, then sewing back together.  Since this belt already has a stiffener, all you need is some good padding.  Can you post a pic of the belt so we can see exactly what we're dealing with?  I think in this case you could get by with just a layer or two of polyester batting added into the mix.  But it needs a solid layer to seal it inside the belt.  Something that is light but breathable.  Like those new fabrics they use on soft shell parkas and trou.  Check out Rocky Woods Fabrics for some ideas.

I prefer a solid backing to mesh because it won't tear up or get clogged with all manner of gunk.  Of course this depends on you and your location.

So as I messed with the belt some more, there is not a stiffener in it, but becaise of the stitching, it has a stiffness to it.  Per Diz, I am gonna get some poly batting and material to sew in some padding.  Will report back when complete.  Thanks Diz!

I get it and understand.  OTOH, avoiding getting a disabling skin rash or fungal infestation is worthwhile.

Was just re-reading "With the Old Breed" by Sledge the other day.  He mentioned how conditions prevented anything like normal personal hygiene.  It seems to me, not being an EXPERT, that water-absorbing cotton clothing and equipment was far worse in that regard than modern nylon gear.  YMMV.

Excellent. I'll poke around and see what I else I may need on Kitmonster. I don't do eBay, so that really limits the sources.

Don't forget about Dixie's Corner as well.

@ridinshotgun
This is the USA concept of a Basha Carrier/Poncho Carrier/Sleeping Gear Carrier, circa M-1967, you can clip on the M-1967 H Harness suspenders, or on top or below the Butt Pack, about $15-25 on ebay, new or like new!
Attached File

Wide Mouth Canteens:   The Danish, Austrians and German Bundeswehr all issued an aluminum copy of the Brit 44 Pattern Canteen with metal or plastic caps, with a slightly wider cap/mouth than the GI 1 qts.    


10SFG had some custom stainless steel wide mouth water bottles made with nesting cup made by DHK Defense:
https://www.dhki.com/Defense/p_steelb.htm

Attached File

Attached File

Maybe something like this could work? Supposed to tie/clip onto the yoke risers, but I bet you could sling it below a buttpack/utility pouches.

https://www.kitmonster.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/2434

But of course Monsieur.  That's the Bum roll, 1 each, MTP in color.  Lots of different styles too.

Pretty cool how they rig it onto the Bergen as well.

Has anyone checked out those silicon gaskets for Brit water bottles on aliexpress?  I couldn't find the 42mm ones?

I suspect the USGI MOLLE Waist Pack could be adapted to that role.

I keep thinking of picking up a proper set of webbing, with the sewn-on utility pouches. I have a BritTac 3-row hippo belt and yoke that I think I bought off an Arfcommer a while ago, but after playing a little I realized what you meant about the bulk and weight (relatively speaking) inherent in PALS-attached pouches that I don't plan to detach. Was looking at their Hamilton's "Airborne Webbing, MOLLE Hybrid Belt Kit Platform" with the sewn utilities but PALS/MOLLE grid where ammo pouches go. Might see about adding the bum roll as well. I think I can get away with re-using my BritTac yoke though, which would save a bit of cash and space in the gear locker.

Otherwise the BritTac has been pretty good to learn on, though.

Yeah it's all been a journey to see what works and optimize the set up.  The bum roll is perfect for that piece of kit that won't fit in the pouches.  

I can't take credit for the sewn-in vs molle thing.  I leaned that from guys going through OTC at Bragg, where they have guys like me on staff that modify their kit for them.  And they probably got the idea from cross-training with the Brits.  So yeah, if you have your sustainment load out pretty stabilized, then sewing it down makes a lot of sense. And retaining molle on the sides gives flexibility in mag pouch choices to suit the mission.  Although at some point I could see that settling down as well.

Viper hood: Check.  

I hope they get back to you because I, for one, am interested in knowing more about this kit setup.

Not to sway too far off topic but can we discus jungle comms setups? What are others running or what have you seen that works well?

For work I utilize a Harris 152 with a U-94A PTT. While Peltors work for most applications, in a jungle/hot and humid environment I'd rather not have ear cups pressed against my head. I've looked at in-ear piece and microphone options from both Disco 32 and Atlantic Signal. Like most all quality commo equipment, prices are definitely not cheap so I just wanted to hear from other members just to get some different ideas.

I know this will elicit groans from many, but, the lowly UV5R works very well out there.  It's a balance between water-proofing and over-heating.  If it's not too stupid, I will run without any water-proofing, and just rely on a totally enclosed pouch.  If it's pissing down rain, I will put a baggie over it (with slots for ant and wire) but leave bottom open for circulation.  I use the extended batteries for extra time but run the radio on lowest power setting.  Silence all the beeps and burps.  Paint over the flashlight.  Add a BNC fitting for stronger antennae mount.  Put a cage over the on-board PTT, freq select and vol/on/off knobs (several available from Great Plains Creations, ebay, etc.).  Use a short "rubber duck" antennae for just inter-team coms.  For more extensive info, see N.C. Scout "The Guerilla's Guide to the Baofeng Radio".

I use a TRI Invisio M3 style earbud bone mic, in conjunction with a D-32 Kenwood 2-pin PTT.

Obviously these are not hardened military radios.  But you use what's available.

The TRI earbud mic works well in jungle-like conditions, where Peltors may not be feasible.

For taking longer distance shots back to base camp and so forth, see N.C. Scout, as mentioned above, and J.J. Schmidt "Partisan Operators".  They go into extensive detail on antennae theory to communicate long range while minimizing detection.  And a bunch of other stuff.

i am well beyond the curve in electronics and communications, here are my two cents: i served when noise cancelling earmuffs started to came around and they were universally hated, as ground pounders like us definitely could not wear those for extended periods of times (hours/days). Best liked item was just a handmic to which you could attach a d shape earpiece.
Also noise enhancing and cancelling didn't work that well in woodland environments in my experience
There was the bowman headset for intrateam radios, the single ear thing with the microphone that i liked and looks like it is still used by Brits. We also bought NIB surplus UK Racal in ear headsets that costed like 15$ as they came without ear cups. I think they too are not that comfortable in hot humid weather.
When i left SDR Radios were started to be fielded and the biggest problem written in field trials report cards was that it was forced to be used with a sordin type headset or like a handy talkie as no handmics existed.

I don't have them, but i think having a helmet with rails and the rail attached earmuffs arms that let you carry earmuffs close to the ears that can be popped close at a moment notice may be the best option for having both environmental awareness and quick noise protection and communication capability. You have to be wearing a helmet obviously and both the radio and electronics have to be ruggedized for that kind of use. I saw us personnel using what looks like a modernized bowman style headset that i don't know about.
For my needs i have been using a Israeli made Source of Sound headset which is tiny, submersible and hooks to a kenwood. I think it was trialed by Force Recon early 2000s for intrateam radios. It offers no gunshot noise protection however, it is just a headset like the bowman.

Otto Noizebarrier Active Earbuds are nice for hot/sweaty temps. They offer an acoustic tube setup that allows radio comms and the Noizebarrier's at the same time.

So my project is coming together.  I am using a SORD USA belt as the base, I already have a PLCE yoke on hand, I am just waiting for the utility pouches which are backordered from Sportsmans Guide.  Hopefully they should be here in a week or so.

SO with some guidance from Diz, some Rit dye, and about an hour of my time, I upgraded the belt from this.....





To this.....





The padding is a nice improvement.  We will see how it all works together once the pouches come in.

I've been doing some carefully thought out buying of Titanium canteens and associated nesting pots, pans, and lids/covers.

Also including compatibility of some aftermarket items with USGI items which are commonly owned, and some of which can be found for cheap.

All of such gear is likely to be carried in rear-mounted pouches discussed in this thread, thus the connection.

Rather than contribute to thread-divergence, I'll post results in a separate thread.

Ran this iteration on a patrol/land nav/leadership class a couple weeks ago. Attached File

I have no real complaints. I really think I prefer this set up to a chest rig in a woodland environment…it just rode better and I barely noticed I had it on. This pic is it empty and drying out after the class. We were cold, wet, tired and hungry for almost three days and it was awesome! I have tweaked it slightly by adding a MTP yoke and a MTP PLCE pouch that I converted to molle. As I get older I think on foot I would prefer this type of set up to armor with a chest rig and battle belt.

Lookin' good!

So has anyone successfully sourced a proper 3 row belt outside of the UK that is not multicam?

Only thing I have seen so far is the Sord USA one, which based on appearance I'm too wild about.

I have a JayJay's medium hippo, which is the cat's ass.  But I'm looking for the same or similar in coyote, RG or whatever.

Turns out a generic 800ml aluminum pot with cup fit the big pouches like a glove, make a good shelf, and are light. I stumbled across this while trying to come up with a hard case for a pvs14. My particular pot set is a “Wuudi” 800ml. About 12$ on Amazon and marketed under a bunch of different brands.

I took a few pictures but I don’t think I have enough posts to be allowed to post them yet.

Aliexpress was giving me fits, but I found some (probably the same damn company) selling them on Ebay and just ordered...will likely take a couple weeks to get here before I can verify. If they fit, I'll post the link. I ordered 20 I think, so I could probably mail a few out for those that need a couple...

Outer Diameter = 42mm

Inner Diameter = 32 mm

O-ring width = 5mm

ROCK6

Outstanding, we'll trade out something.  

Hey good job on the hippo up there.  That's pretty amazing on a home sewing machine.  

JJ's did do a batch of solid tan awhile back.  You might ask them about that.

I’m using the Aussie wide mouth canteens here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264696133805

Wish we could get them cheaper stateside, talked to a coworker in OZ and he said the shipping would be the same if he got them and sent them.  Now the issue is finding a cup that fits.

Not for nothing, isn’t the Oz canteen just basically a square Nalgene bottle?

I get mine from Optactical for $9 plus shipping. IMO they are not worth much more that than, waaayyy less rigid than Nalgene or even a gatorade bottle.

I don't have anything to add to this, at the moment, but thank you everyone for all the info!  This is one of the best gear threads on arfcom.

Op has them in stock?  Haven’t seen that in a while which is why I bit the bullet on shipping.

In reference to Nalgene, I have the Lexan version and it was difficult to get it in/out of the pouch, which is why I looked for another, wide-mouthed solution.

Wish those wide-mouthed USGI canteens would have been in wider distribution.

AFAIK, Oasis plastic canteens are safe for injecting boiling water into them, and likewise dishwasher safe, supposedly BPA free. Not so sure about other plastic canteens.

I know nothing about the currently available "collapsible" GI canteen items.

IDK when USGI plastic canteens were stated to be free of "some" plastic contaminants (BPA) which are currently avoided.

Benefit of Oasis plastic canteen being able to accept boiling water is that doing so is a simple way of decontaminating plastic canteen with simple boiled water.

Other plastic canteens might not do well with boiling water injected into them.

Metal canteens can be disinfected by simply boiling water inside the canteen.  Metal GI canteens can be rid of internal crud by introducing a suitable amount of ball bearings along with some bleach solution and vigorously agitating the canteen.  Not usually needed, but simple as that.

Any canteen can be disinfected by a simple 10% bleach solution.  It's likely that any aggressive water tabs installed into a canteen, and allowed sufficient time to be effective will also work in any canteen.

I have WW I (and later) GI metal canteens which have been sanitized and from which I drink often.  The only thing I do is to replace the original cork cap gaskets (germ traps) with modern neoprene cap gaskets.

I agree that "wide-mouth" canteens are very much preferable for colder climes, but we have to deal that which is available--and affordable.

All my Comments added to this thread are most certainly in support of the overall concept.

Disregard

Where do you put the IFAK on the Brit kit?