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AL, USA
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Posted: 7/9/2024 2:27:00 PM EDT
[#1]
CJ-8.com has the best folks!
Been a member since, well, a REALLY long time. I’m a good friend of the owner of the forum, Matt. I got nothing else to add at the moment, y’all are on the right track. I’ve got a 6.0L LQ9 LS in my Scrambler now so…nothing to add but, LS swap it! 
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Posted: 7/9/2024 2:39:30 PM EDT
[#2]
I’m currently chasing electrical gremlins in my new to me CJ-5. Starts right up, but I was having other issues. I measured the voltage at the headlights and was reading about 10 volts. Bought a new ground wire and cleared the rust from the ground location. Battery still needs to be replaced, but I’m getting better readings.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 7/9/2024 2:43:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kiju]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Omega-1: I’m currently chasing electrical gremlins in my new to me CJ-5. Starts right up, but I was having other issues. I measured the voltage at the headlights and was reading about 10 volts. Bought a new ground wire and cleared the rust from the ground location. Battery still needs to be replaced, but I’m getting better readings. A happy CJ has battery to body, body to chassis, chassis to block and block to alternator. |
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USA
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Posted: 7/9/2024 3:12:39 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj8lvr: CJ-8.com has the best folks! Been a member since, well, a REALLY long time. I’m a good friend of the owner of the forum, Matt. I got nothing else to add at the moment, y’all are on the right track. I’ve got a 6.0L LQ9 LS in my Scrambler now so…nothing to add but, LS swap it! Matt is one of the few who hasn't sold out to vertical scope. Luckily he hates them as much as I do. That's why the scrambler forum is the only Jeep board I frequent now. |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 7:31:52 PM EDT
[#5]
I've been tied up with other projects the last few days, so I haven't made a whole lot of progress. I was able to get the starter changed out with the spare...
    ...and it made no difference whatsoever. Has to be a ground issue with the ground strap and the frame, so I'll have to change it over once I have time again. As far as the motor is concerned, I'm 99.999% sure I'm at TDC on the compression stroke. I can get it to fire over pouring a little fuel directly in the carb and with the throttle wide open, but it its very short lived and seems to be fairly rough. I'm not getting any backfiring through the carb, though. I'm almost certainly going to need to pull the carb off and go through it, never taken apart anything other than small 2-stroke and lawn equipment carbs (mowers, gen sets, etc). I'm just a little lost why I can't get it to run some better than its doing on starter fluid or pouring fuel directly in the bowl. I feel like I am still chasing an ignition issue, but I don't want to start throwing money at it just yet without knowing what's necessary. |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 7:33:23 PM EDT
[#6]
Use a jumper cable,from negative terminal to engine block somewhere. Easy way to be sure.
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Posted: 7/9/2024 8:13:09 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By artburg: Use a jumper cable,from negative terminal to engine block somewhere. Easy way to be sure. That actually helped. A lot. I ran one end from the neg terminal and the other to the passenger side motor mount, made a big difference. I'll run some new frame/body/block grounds next time I get a chance to work on the Jeep. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 7/9/2024 8:21:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wm69: Matt is one of the few who hasn't sold out to vertical scope. Luckily he hates them as much as I do. That's why the scrambler forum is the only Jeep board I frequent now. Exactly! Matt is really good people. Was with him just a few weeks ago in Arkansas for our 20th annual Scramble. I was the National Scrambler Owners Association president for 10 years. I recognize your username. |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 8:27:29 PM EDT
[#9]
@jason280 Where you at in GA?? I might know a guy who has a new DUI dizzy for super cheap.
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Posted: 7/9/2024 9:17:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 71jeepcj6: @jason280 Where you at in GA?? I might know a guy who has a new DUI dizzy for super cheap. Just north of Macon, but I travel to SW Georgia fairly regularly. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 7/9/2024 9:21:21 PM EDT
[#11]
I was thinking the ground strap from the engine to the frame should be on the driver side from the front side of the engine to the frame.
Finestkind |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 9:26:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: kilrain]
[#12]
That year Jeep has an ignition module, usually located on the driver side of the engine bay mounted to the wheel splash guard, kinda under the brake master cylinder. It's a $30 to $40 part. Replace that, get a manual and set the distributor to stock settings and see what happens.
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Posted: 7/9/2024 9:30:56 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jason280: Just north of Macon, but I travel to SW Georgia fairly regularly. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jason280: Originally Posted By 71jeepcj6: @jason280 Where you at in GA?? I might know a guy who has a new DUI dizzy for super cheap. Just north of Macon, but I travel to SW Georgia fairly regularly. Im in the Blue Ridge area. If your up this way hit me up and I’ll see what I can do about hooking you up with some parts! |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 10:01:34 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Abbysdaddy04: Go to Jeepforum.com. There’s a huge subforum on CJ’s along with every other Jeep made. It was a huge asset to bringing my 86 CJ back to life. +1 Shameless pic of my rig...!  Attached File |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/9/2024 10:07:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bluesx: Best thing ever for the 258 is the Fixed it for you :) The 258 in my 85 was wore OUT! Burned a lot of oil, no power and nowhere near the compression of this one. Made it a smog legal swap. Hindisght? I would rebuild the 258. I sold it a couple of years ago. OP- the importance of good grounds are way underestimated. Fix those, then the timing and fuel and I bet it runs. As others have said, go HEI, but don't go chynese. |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 10:17:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Jason280]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Seymore76: I was thinking the ground strap from the engine to the frame should be on the driver side from the front side of the engine to the frame. Finestkind Yeah, you can see it in this pic...  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 11:33:28 PM EDT
[#17]
This is what I did to my Jeep.
  
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Posted: 7/9/2024 11:37:22 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Strikeforces: +1 Shameless pic of my rig...! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/326711/1673034926902blob_jpg-3262344.JPG Very nice |
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Posted: 7/9/2024 11:37:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DubyaB]
[#19]
....
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Posted: 7/10/2024 9:14:56 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 71jeepcj6: Im in the Blue Ridge area. If your up this way hit me up and I’ll see what I can do about hooking you up with some parts! It will be a little while before I can do much with the CJ again, hope to get back on it next week and *maybe* make a little progress. |
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Posted: 7/10/2024 10:21:06 PM EDT
[#21]
Tagged for (eventual) outcome. My brother brought Dad's 1980 CJ-5 back to life recently. Hope you can get this one back on the road too.
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USA
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Posted: 7/11/2024 12:03:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kilrain: That year Jeep has an ignition module, usually located on the driver side of the engine bay mounted to the wheel splash guard, kinda under the brake master cylinder. It's a $30 to $40 part. Replace that, get a manual and set the distributor to stock settings and see what happens. https://thejeepsterman.com/cdn/shop/products/ignition-module-1978-1986-jeep-cj-5-cj-7-cj-8-w-25l-42l-or-50l-engine-809421.jpg?v=1691352740 Don't buy parts store/ aftermarket ignition modules. The originals lasted, but the aftermarket ones are garbage. Do the "stealth HEI" swap. Lasts much longer, cheaper, and easier to get a replacement module if you're BFE |
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Posted: 7/11/2024 3:18:36 PM EDT
[#23]
Funny story about those ignition modules, Ford used the same ones back then. A friend of mine calls me up several years ago asking if I had any idea why his new to him Ford truck would have shut off on him. I told him those modules fail all the time and to look behind the seat for a spare. There was actually one there. He asked how the fuck I knew that. Most people that drove those for any amount of time had been left stranded at least once and kept a spare.
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Posted: 7/11/2024 6:11:56 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wm69: . Do the "stealth HEI" swap. Lasts much longer, cheaper, and easier to get a replacement module if you're BFE I'm researching this now... |
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Posted: 7/19/2024 3:57:24 PM EDT
[#25]
Bump.
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VA, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2024 4:23:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Powerkicker]
[#26]
Stop with the starter fluid. Use your premix line trimmer gas in a squirt bottle to the carb. Put in a boat tank to pull fresh fuel from to eliminate the possibility of bad gas. Make sure the fuel pump is pumping.
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SC, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2024 4:42:33 PM EDT
[#27]
Have you checked for a stuck valve? You may have bent a push rod. Pull the valve cover and make sure they all move. You can also tell if the cam is wiped.
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Posted: 7/19/2024 8:58:56 PM EDT
[#28]
Do you have a timing light ?
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Posted: 7/19/2024 10:06:53 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dagger41: Do you have a timing light ? Yup. Haven't had much time to mess with the Jeep, lately....hope to get to it this weekend. |
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Posted: 7/19/2024 10:11:31 PM EDT
[#30]
I have nothing to add.
As a Land Rover defender owner, it’s just amazing to see an engine bay that dry, and not slathered in various different fluids. |
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Posted: 7/19/2024 11:16:54 PM EDT
[#31]
OP, your Jeep has basically a Ford ignition system. If you would like to keep it and do a simple upgrade, it can be done cheaply, and is actually just part of a tune up. Use Ford distributor parts from a late 70s-early-mid 80s 300 six.
You'll need the rotor, distributor cap, and distributor cap spacer. The spacer moves the rotor contacts farther from the dist. body to help prevent arcing. The dist. cap is larger in diameter for the same reason. It will all go right on your distributor. Get a cap and rotor with brass contacts and it will last forever. Cheap dist. caps with aluminum posts suck because as the aluminum oxidizes, it becomes an extremely poor conductor. You can also use Ford ignition modules, but the plugs may need to be changed. I used to do this for my Jeep. I also carried a spare ign. module, just as I carry a spare crank pos. sensor for my Cherokee. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2024 11:24:13 PM EDT
[#32]
Suggestions? -Having owned Jeep's from '47 CJ2A to the present? sell it. Seriously. Craigslist it out and take whatever some lowball offer is willing to pay. Old Jeep's are a lot like old boats: you just keep tossing money at them to stay afloat. |
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Posted: 7/19/2024 11:34:33 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nmxdavenn: As a Land Rover defender owner, it’s just amazing to see an engine bay that dry, and not slathered in various different fluids. It's probably because it hasn't run in 5-10+ years, sir.  |
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Posted: 7/20/2024 2:03:34 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatidua: -Having owned Jeep's from '47 CJ2A to the present? sell it. Seriously. Craigslist it out and take whatever some lowball offer is willing to pay. Old Jeep's are a lot like old boats: you just keep tossing money at them to stay afloat. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatidua: Suggestions? -Having owned Jeep's from '47 CJ2A to the present? sell it. Seriously. Craigslist it out and take whatever some lowball offer is willing to pay. Old Jeep's are a lot like old boats: you just keep tossing money at them to stay afloat. Not if you actually know what your doing. I've had my 82 CJ7 for over 20 years, did a 4.0 swap, not sure what this "old boat" thing is? Haven't sunk a boat load of money in it to get it to run, now extras, axles and tires are the exception. |
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Posted: 7/20/2024 4:42:38 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatidua: -Having owned Jeep's from '47 CJ2A to the present? sell it. Seriously. Craigslist it out and take whatever some lowball offer is willing to pay. Old Jeep's are a lot like old boats: you just keep tossing money at them to stay afloat. This is probably the best advice, but I wouldn’t follow it if I was theproud owner of a “new” CJ. Have fun with it now and regret it later! |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2024 4:56:09 PM EDT
[#36]
Without reading anything other timing issues.
Is the,oil pump istalled correctly ya it matters. |
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Posted: 7/20/2024 7:16:50 PM EDT
[#37]
7/20 Update
I didn't have much time, but I made a little progress with the Jeep this afternoon. I was able to get an additional frame to battery ground ran, and now its cranking much better on just the battery. I was also get it to run for 3-5 seconds, albeit a little rough, on 50:1 mixed gas by pouring it directly in the carb. Tomorrow, I'm going to rig up an external tank and see if the fuel pump will push fuel up to the carb....maybe I'll get lucky and it will run/idle! |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2024 7:25:09 PM EDT
[#38]
I would have run the fuel line straight from the fuel pump into a 5 gallon gas can right off the bat. Who knows what's in the tank.
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Posted: 7/20/2024 7:34:24 PM EDT
[#39]
With mine, it was the spark advance. It had literally fallen apart.
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Posted: 7/20/2024 7:36:03 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jason280: 7/20 Update I didn't have much time, but I made a little progress with the Jeep this afternoon. I was able to get an additional frame to battery ground ran, and now its cranking much better on just the battery. I was also get it to run for 3-5 seconds, albeit a little rough, on 50:1 mixed gas by pouring it directly in the carb. Tomorrow, I'm going to rig up an external tank and see if the fuel pump will push fuel up to the carb....maybe I'll get lucky and it will run/idle! Fuel pumps go bad due to alcohol in the gas. Check/Replace that first. |
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Posted: 7/20/2024 8:16:09 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JVD: I would have run the fuel line straight from the fuel pump into a 5 gallon gas can right off the bat. Who knows what's in the tank. Both lines were bone dry when I pulled them off the fuel pump, so either the tank is empty, the pump is bad, or the line from the tank is clogged up. |
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Posted: 7/20/2024 8:30:27 PM EDT
[#42]
One other thing I have been sort of battling with is the front brakes dragging, makes moving it around a little bit of a pain. I initially wanted to simply pull the calipers, but there appears to be nothing simply about pulling these. I was able to retract the pistons enough on both sides to release the brakes a little, but still haven't figured out how these calipers are removed. There are two large bolts on the rear of the bracket, but the top one is only accessible if you pull the banjo bolt/brake line. Of course, the banjo bolt is seized in place, and I am not sure I can get either removed without damaging the brake lines. Do you really have to remove the brake lines, then ultimately bleed both sides just to pull the calipers/change brake pads? I found one lower allen head bolt, but removing it really didn't do much. What am I missing?
The brakes on this one look nothing like any of the later '81 and up front brake setups, so I am thinking these may be pre-80's.     
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Posted: 7/20/2024 8:43:50 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bama-Shooter: I had an 85 CJ7 loved it and hated it. Money pit. Convert to SPFI or sell. Ended up selling it We now have a 97 4 banger, with fuel injection 
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Posted: 7/20/2024 9:50:47 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CJ7365: I've had my 82 CJ7 for over 20 years, did a 4.0 swap, not sure what this "old boat" thing is? This was my plan before I picked up the '81. The other CJ7 I have (actually the first CJ I ever bought) is an '85 or '86, same motor with 5spd manual trans. I bought it knowing the engine was likely bad, and sure enough, no compression on cylinder #6. So, I pulled the motor and trans, and picked up a complete mid 90's 4.0L out of a Cherokee. I tore the engine down to the block, had the block & head cleaned/checked/decked, and ordered a rebuild kit.....and that's as far as I ever got. The other CJ7 is still parked in the barn, and the engine is still completely apart. Hopefully after I get done with this one, I can start on it. |
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Posted: 7/20/2024 10:43:34 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jason280: This was my plan before I picked up the '81. The other CJ7 I have (actually the first CJ I ever bought) is an '85 or '86, same motor with 5spd manual trans. I bought it knowing the engine was likely bad, and sure enough, no compression on cylinder #6. So, I pulled the motor and trans, and picked up a complete mid 90's 4.0L out of a Cherokee. I tore the engine down to the block, had the block & head cleaned/checked/decked, and ordered a rebuild kit.....and that's as far as I ever got. The other CJ7 is still parked in the barn, and the engine is still completely apart. Hopefully after I get done with this one, I can start on it. |
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Posted: 7/20/2024 10:53:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CJ7365]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jason280: This was my plan before I picked up the '81. The other CJ7 I have (actually the first CJ I ever bought) is an '85 or '86, same motor with 5spd manual trans. I bought it knowing the engine was likely bad, and sure enough, no compression on cylinder #6. So, I pulled the motor and trans, and picked up a complete mid 90's 4.0L out of a Cherokee. I tore the engine down to the block, had the block & head cleaned/checked/decked, and ordered a rebuild kit.....and that's as far as I ever got. The other CJ7 is still parked in the barn, and the engine is still completely apart. Hopefully after I get done with this one, I can start on it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jason280: Originally Posted By CJ7365: I've had my 82 CJ7 for over 20 years, did a 4.0 swap, not sure what this "old boat" thing is? This was my plan before I picked up the '81. The other CJ7 I have (actually the first CJ I ever bought) is an '85 or '86, same motor with 5spd manual trans. I bought it knowing the engine was likely bad, and sure enough, no compression on cylinder #6. So, I pulled the motor and trans, and picked up a complete mid 90's 4.0L out of a Cherokee. I tore the engine down to the block, had the block & head cleaned/checked/decked, and ordered a rebuild kit.....and that's as far as I ever got. The other CJ7 is still parked in the barn, and the engine is still completely apart. Hopefully after I get done with this one, I can start on it. I put a 94 Cherokee 4.0 in 1998. Bought most of the parts for the conversion from Hesco, wiring harness/computer etc...... prices are way up on that stuff now. So far as the dragging caliper, it is most likely from a collapsed brake line, that caliper I have not seen before, way different from my 82. I would be hitting that banjo bolt with some PB blaster, maybe heat it up, worse case dremel the head of enough to get to the bolt to remove caliper, new caliper w/shoes and hose your back in business, of course change out the other side too, you might be able to save the rotors but rotors are cheap. My caliper has two allen head bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket, I remember I had to take the bracket off and yes I did have to remove the brake line. OP this might be the caliper you have here is a video of removal  Jeep CJ7 Front Brake Rotor Hub Removal |
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Posted: 7/21/2024 7:42:35 AM EDT
[#47]
 Attached FileTo remove the caliper drive that slide piece out, that will give you room to maneuver the caliper to get it off. I believe there is a curved spring that will come off with it. Clean up the areas where the calipers contact the steering knuckle. It’s a shitty design that always has some drag on the rotors, don’t expect them to free wheel. |
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Posted: 7/21/2024 8:47:22 AM EDT
[#48]
Damn, Those calipers look like the old shitty Lincoln Versailles rear disc setup minus the parking brake that never worked. Honestly, see if there is a modern caliper conversion.
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Posted: 7/21/2024 7:18:56 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bashby: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/451123/IMG_0317_jpeg-3272782.JPG To remove the caliper drive that slide piece out, that will give you room to maneuver the caliper to get it off. I believe there is a curved spring that will come off with it. Clean up the areas where the calipers contact the steering knuckle. It’s a shitty design that always has some drag on the rotors, don’t expect them to free wheel. Yup, that was it...thanks! Both soft brake lines will almost certainly have to be replaced, if not the entire caliper assemblies. I pulled the caliper off the driver's side, it really simple once you figure out the slide pin/piece. We played around a little with the fuel pump, mainly to see if it would actually pump fuel. I ran about a 4' piece of 1/4" ID fuel line into a full 5 gal gas can and never could get it to pump anything out the outlet port. Not sure if it would have made any difference had I gravity bled into the inlet port, but it definitely wasn't pulling anything from the gas can. O'Reilly's is supposed to have me a replacement tomorrow around lunch.   Its still cranking/wanting to run on fuel poured into the carb, so that's a good sign. I probably need to go ahead and pull the carb and go through it, but I really want to see what it does once I get fuel pumping to it. We did get motivated to go ahead and pull the valve cover, just to make sure all the valves are, you know, valving correctly.    Everything looked fine, all the valves were correctly opening and closing. Of course, I tore part of the valve cover gasket, so I'll have to order one tomorrow. |
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Posted: 7/21/2024 7:35:14 PM EDT
[#50]
Damn! That motor is clean inside.
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