The bottom numbers starting with MIL-  Are the Blackhawk named colrs, and the last digits of those match up on that federal colors page at the top.   Maybe bring in your phone and have them match a picture of a color swath?

You missed something, I think.

Side window

SAR bubble for searching

Those are optional though, I honestly couldn't tell you what the right ones are, but the sliding window look could be added.

They have some good pics of other parts, too, if you wander around the site long enough.

Don't they have windows low on the front so pilots can see distance to ground?  Replaced with instruments?

You may be able to do one better if they have the computer color mix thing, if you have a color laser printer and it is color calibrated in photoshop or other graphics program, Win 10 supports device color profiles, usually can download from device mfgr to tell computer "when it's rgb x, convert to CYMK  (adjusted formula for CYMK conversion to make the output match better)".  Supposed to do that with display first, with an auto-matching color corrector, or by eye to a display calibration card, which I'm guessing you don't have, then load default output profile, have the color correction system camera read it, and update the printer color profile so it's always right.

Well, you can skip most of that, load the printer color profiler on the device in properties/color managemnet, then save image of colors, hit pirnt, and it'll come out way clser than your phone.    I'm pretty sure hitting print without any  color profiles loaded in something like paint.net would yield a more faithful representation of the color to match prior to mixing, the cameras to mix don't do so hot off a glowing phone display simulating the color.  So print it first.

If it looks ok on paper, it'll probably look ok in output, but they'r never exactly the same, usually due to finish and how the particular paint chosen reflects light back.

For that sort of cutting, Use X-Acto pen knives.  You only need to put in a new blade 10x as often.   If you do havee Xacto knives and they don't use htem, it's probably due to them being dull or out of blades.

Get the cheap blades, they're still very sharp, even if an X-Acto branded blade lasts 3x longer, you'll still come out behind due to having to 'ration' them.

They're a penny each!


On Blades...
Get a lot more life out of all blades before resorting to new blade or abrasives (strop, stone), by using a steel!  Get a perfectly smooth 3/16" - 3/8" diameter stainless steel rod, slice/sweep it just like cutting a bit off, with light pressure, around 35°-40° to surface.  That action removes any burrs, wire edge, and straightens out the edge and doubles the life and it's free, not to mention faster than putting in a new blade.   Be sure to polish the rod to mirror finish and have a few handy.  Takes literally 4 seconds.  Works on utility blades to fillet knives, won't revive a chip, but when used often, you don't need a new blade (or abrasive sharpening) nearly as frequently.

Steels today got a bad rap, because they made them ceramic or ribbed.  People didn't realize a perfectly smooth and hard chunk of steel could "sharpen".  So they made them look like it would.    Now a Good one is a lot of money, marketed toward chefs, butchers, etc.    NOT a Substitute for proper angle and sharpening to begin with, which X-Acto and utility blades have, this only extends life.

Sit end of rod on table at 45° angle from vertical, push blade straight down LIGHT PRESSURE, about trigger pull (Good Trigger, not a grenade glock) pressure while pulling back so it sweeps theedge.  Once full blade edge has passed the steel, move rod to other 45 ° angle, push blade straight down, repeat one more time.   Can also move knife with rod steady..  Stick a wood handle on thse and shine up to ensure there's no nicks and it's mirror smooth if it doesn't come that way.  Drill or Lathe makes it fast.


The "Official Version"  which doesn't do anything the rod above won't, once polished, however this has a nice handle and is long enough to deal with full sized knife blades and a lot easier to hold, and has a hand guard until you get the knack of it.


[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9XPELRRXT0[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9XPELRRXT0

This is what a steel fixes - Sharp blade that doesn't cut - Dull, because the edge is wavy or partially folded.    The steel puts the bevels back together straight and smooth so it's like new again.



AFTER a steel:


No metal removed to make it good as new.

Damn I ramble babble when I get on a hobby horsey, don't I?

Well, I stuck a blade down my index finger next to the fingernail from the tip of my fingernail back to first knuckle of left index finger 2 years ago while trying to open "theft proof" packaging in a hurry.   Got through first hard spot, was pushing downward, then hit soft area and package spun, so I tried to catch it, put finger right in path of blade, hard.  It was a perfect fillet o'finger.

Luckily, it was sharp.  I forget how many stitches, but it healed perfectly because it was sharp/clean blade and quickly stitched.   Getting cut with a dull knife leaves scars.

Still, the rest of the info on saving an edge could save you time and money in blades, the trick is to hit the steel as soon as it's not cutting like a brand new blade.  It'll keep cutting perfectly until you hit metal with it.   I haven't re-ground my knife since I sliced my finger, I know it's a good angle for fast, clean cuts, and I use it often on cardboard, wood, tape, fingers, etc.  

Most sharpening (and knife) salesmen have people grinding away their blades to powder when they could be simply straightening it out to cut like new.    Might be why they "improved" the smooth knife steel to have ridges and abrasives so they do more damage than good.   Though the carbide 'sharpeners' are design of Evil, they rip a layer off leaving a jagged, but sharp edge, taking away 20x the material of a honing in a single swipe.

--ETA:  An ultrasonic knife would be magically awesomee for that board cutting, if you thought the oscillating tool was great, when it comes to thin stock, these are magic, better than a scalpel.


[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IL2Lji3GDXo[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IL2Lji3GDXo

If going the "old fashioned" way of a bevel edge andpressure, use a mat to save the blade tip's life, and a smooth edged ruler (not etched) to guide it.  The etched marked rulers are great for measuring, but are like a coarse file to knife blades.


A Shorter version of this, you probably already have, but students don't bother using it since it takes too long and isn't as fun:

Prevent this:

The stitches wrap around under the finger as far, too.  It was hanging on only by a little bit of skin when I got to the doc office.
Click To View Spoiler

You're having the same problem the initial covering on the football had - too much material for area covered, resulting in wrinkels.  The new Football looks Very Good!  That student get's an A from me.

Do you have lead weight tape?   Put that along the wrinkled edge high spots and heat evenly to stretch it out, the sides will need tension to pull them flat, which may distort and thin other parts.

Did the wrinkles happen during cooling, or was heating stopped with them in it?  Was one popping up when another went down?  Compound curves are a bit advanced at that size, you did awesome on the rest!   Stretching to thin the material a bit rather than "pulling flat" could help, so one corner is pulled out like a rubber band if you can keep it evenly heated with gentle pressure on high spots only.   Lead weight strip with double stick tape works good as extra hands if you can orient it so Gravity is your friend.

That's a spendy sheet of plastic, replacements for vehicles with curved like that (motorcycles, ATV, utility) are made in a heated open mould, with excess cut off once pressed while still hot, you don't really have that option.  Similar process for glass windows, but different procedures, since it's, well, laminated glass.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRi0s3cMg2U[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRi0s3cMg2U

I thought the motor driver used already had isolation isolated?  Weren't you using This board?  Or is there current sense on the doors to detect close?   I don't remember what was actually decided for duration - time, limit switch, or current sense.

What were the interrupts supposed to be from, I had no info, so trew out all suggestions that get rid of noise, the most common reason designs are flaky.

I know I mentioned motor speeds changing with time in the future (well, in the past, about the future, which is now), but are they quicker for both opening AND closing?  Check current draw from what it should be if it's a lot different, and make sure you have some spares (depending on how fast they're changing).

Ok, if they're being run with PWM, the relay board wouldn't work.  Need fast SSR to do that, unless it's reading from motors or limit switches that's needing the isolation.   I don't know how it ended up being built.  With a motor driver shield, there's not really a way to fully isolate them other than PWM friendly fast Solid State Relays Like these guys.   Other option would be to completely replace the current shield with something else, meaning code rewrite, meaning his spring break will be spent at a school.

This is starting to look like a .gov project with a $1200 budget.  

Thought you'd be used to it by now.



If I knew the scale of what you were going to do, the immersive diorama, I'd have said you couldn't get it done in time.  Glad Ii shut up there.   But $2k seems average after you add fiddly bits that aend up expensive for some reason.   Is there a metal shop there that can mill brackets, or is it flame cutting and welding only type shop?

Maybe you should get the machine shop and robotics teachers to make threads here as well.   You'd have the most pimped out high school in existence!   I seriously feel that once students graduate after taking all of your art classes, could compete with 'fresh out of junior college' kid, mostly due to understanding workflow, processes, project management, etc.   Instead of having all that theory then seeing it fall apart when learning by fire at a job.   Certainly better equipped for college if they choose that route as well, for the same reasons, in addition to the breadth of knowledge they've been exposed to.

Those screams were anguish, not exaltation.

What perfectly good wire mesh box are you cutting apart?   I'd like some woven mesh like that but it seems to be large orders only.  Anyway, what did you forget you had?

I didn't think there was anything wrong with the screen before, I'll have to go back and look at pictures if you want me to give my "input" (whining/complaining/suggesting expensive errors/incorrect info/etc)

--ETA:

Seems the screen needs more curvature with about 75% sized mesh holes, using thicker 'fencing', also, the model screen is oriented about 40° away from the horizontal position of the actual helo.

Before Today:


After Today:


Real:

It's far more grey than your current "forest green" color.

If a local shop is mixing it with a computer mixing thing, you can ask them to make it a certain tint different and they can adjust the mix pretty well sometimes, though it's hard to make black lighter (unless you buy 5 gallons of white).

This seems to be a more common color, in with the rest, I guess I never paid attention to the variations, but the radar/IR proof paints and high temp paints aren't the same colors as others, either, so don't sweat it too much.