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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:04:37 AM EST
[#1]
Quoted: Have a DeWalt 60v chainsaw. I use it for light work around the house, and for occasionally cutting up fallen logs on hunting trails and hunting spots. I wonder if it is simply more efficient to replace chains when they go dull, or is sharpening a better option? I have looked at the clamp on jigs that allow you to sharpen with a file, and now I see these cheap-o plastic clamshell sharpeners that you simply clamp on and close, and pull the trigger as the chain supposedly sharpens itself on the stone inside. What does GD say? Replace blades because they're cheap? Does the cheap thingy work? Or just get a sharpening jig and do it like a lumberjack? Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:06:16 AM EST
[#2]
I used to cut a lot of wood, especially when I was doing lumber milking with the Alaskan sawmill attachment
Plus lots of firewood - when my Dad was still around he loved keeping his house hot in the winter months with the wood burner So I have a small electric Oregon bench mounted saw chain sharpener. I bought that after an actual sharpening shop local to me butchered my chains - my Dad took all the used ones to have them sharpen. None were ground evenly and brand new ones had so much stock ground off. The guy who did it had to be a junkie or really simple. If you only cut a little, then maybe just getting a new one is better for you. At most you only need some hand files for the little amount you seem to cut. Full chains just make YOU work harder and it’s less “enjoyable” when they go dull and the saw is struggling to make cuts. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:07:26 AM EST
[#3]
 PFERD - Chain Saw Sharpener CHAIN SHARP CS-X Pferd or Stihl sharpener takes most of the mystery out of sharpening as it handles tooth and raker at the same time. Once a year use may be easier to just buy a chain but sharp chains cut way better so even touching up during light use is a good idea |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:07:27 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:09:01 AM EST
[#5]
Quote History |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:09:27 AM EST
[#6]
You can dull a chain in a matter of seconds. Replacing them each time is not cost effective.
Buy a decent sharpener and learn how to use it or find a saw shop that sharpens chains and have them do it. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:12:20 AM EST
[#7]
Oh my god, y’all are incapable of using a file
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:14:26 AM EST
[#8]
Get the sharpener posted above from Stihl the correct size for your chain. It works well and is easy to learn how to do it.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:16:13 AM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Have a DeWalt 60v chainsaw. I use it for light work around the house, and for occasionally cutting up fallen logs on hunting trails and hunting spots. I wonder if it is simply more efficient to replace chains when they go dull, or is sharpening a better option? I have looked at the clamp on jigs that allow you to sharpen with a file, and now I see these cheap-o plastic clamshell sharpeners that you simply clamp on and close, and pull the trigger as the chain supposedly sharpens itself on the stone inside. What does GD say? Replace blades because they're cheap? Does the cheap thingy work? Or just get a sharpening jig and do it like a lumberjack? Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl  don't forget to flip your bar with each sharpening. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:16:37 AM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can dull a chain in a matter of seconds. Replacing them each time is not cost effective. Buy a decent sharpener and learn how to use it or find a saw shop that sharpens chains and have them do it. But he asked which is more efficient, not cost-effective. Having spares on site and replacing chains as they dull is probably more efficient. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:17:35 AM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Have a DeWalt 60v chainsaw. I use it for light work around the house, and for occasionally cutting up fallen logs on hunting trails and hunting spots. I wonder if it is simply more efficient to replace chains when they go dull, or is sharpening a better option? I have looked at the clamp on jigs that allow you to sharpen with a file, and now I see these cheap-o plastic clamshell sharpeners that you simply clamp on and close, and pull the trigger as the chain supposedly sharpens itself on the stone inside. What does GD say? Replace blades because they're cheap? Does the cheap thingy work? Or just get a sharpening jig and do it like a lumberjack? Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl Once a year?? I run a file over a chain every tank of gas. Get the right size file and a guide so you don’t make the teeth into a hook and sharpen it yourself. Don’t forget to lower the rakers with a flat file every now and then. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:20:41 AM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Once a year?? I run a file over a chain every tank of gas. Get the right size file and a guide so you don't make the teeth into a hook and sharpen it yourself. Don't forget to lower the rakers with a flat file every now and then. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:22:43 AM EST
[#13]
I have four chains for my 500i and I just pay $10 to sharpen them when they get dull. Kinda lazy but they come back sharp as new and apparently I need more practice on sharpening.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:24:55 AM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: But he asked which is more efficient, not cost-effective. Having spares on site and replacing chains as they dull is probably more efficient. No, no it’s not. You can literally sharpen most chains with a round file (especially on that dewalt, I’ve felled many trees with one) in under a minute. All you have to do is see how the file fits in, follow that angle, and pay attention to the shiny spot that forms to make sure it’s even And do not buy and electric sharpener, you’ll wear through the heat treat and shorten the life of the chain. This is literally one of the easiest parts of saw maintenance. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:27:03 AM EST
[#15]
The Granberg File-N-Joint lets you use a manual file and set the angles like you would a grinder. I have a grinder and still like to use it sometimes. Its easy to keep consistent and harder to mess up than the Stihl and Pferd combo sharpeners. Plus it teaches you how to maintain an angle with a round file. Then just hit your rakers with a flat file every once in a while.
 
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:28:28 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have four chains for my 500i and I just pay $10 to sharpen them when they get dull. Kinda lazy but they come back sharp as new and apparently I need more practice on sharpening. On a saw that large I’ll bet the teeth even have witness marks to follow for the angle https://www.educatedclimber.com/saw-chain-maintenance/ 
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:29:07 AM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/this-gif-793.gif Yep, and learning to keep your chain out of the dirt & rocks is half the battle, |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:29:41 AM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl I concur. Those work well. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:36:21 AM EST
[#19]
I've only ever used these with great success:
 These do look intriguing due to the incorporated depth gauge flat file:  |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:36:55 AM EST
[#20]
look for your chain size, it will be stamped on the sides of the chain bar...fine print, might have to look hard
Go to hardware store (or Amazon) Buy Oregon brand round file for same chain size Go home and file chain freehand, good enuf' Big chips and fast cut means sharp chain...wood dust means dull chain BTW: Oregon brand makes a kit specifically for DeWalt with a non-lawyerproof (aggressive), fast cutting chain and matching 16" cutting bar It will make your electric chainsaw do all the work while your gas powered chainsaw gathers dust and finally ends up on Facebook market or Craigslist while your tennis elbow (from jerking a damn pull cord over-and-over,-and-over and over...) heals over the winter time 
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:39:02 AM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The Granberg File-N-Joint lets you use a manual file and set the angles like you would a grinder. I have a grinder and still like to use it sometimes. Its easy to keep consistent and harder to mess up than the Stihl and Pferd combo sharpeners. Plus it teaches you how to maintain an angle with a round file. Then just hit your rakers with a flat file every once in a while. www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZY1WG +1, just bought one of these. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:40:58 AM EST
[#22]
If you don’t want to sharpen the chain yourself just take it to get it sharpened. It’s $10 or less.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:41:24 AM EST
[#23]
I don't use mine often, the Stihl worked fine but decided to order a timberline after some reviews so we'll see how it works.
https://timberlinesharpener.com/product/timberline-sharpener/ |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:42:28 AM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl I have that. It works just fine. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:43:05 AM EST
[#25]
Depends on how often you use it. I sharpen mine when its starts cutting like shit. Could be a month or 5 seconds if you hit dirt or rock.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:43:12 AM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've only ever used these with great success: https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/file-1025-649b244382338.jpeg?resize=980:* These do look intriguing due to the incorporated depth gauge flat file: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/MEDIAX_792452-T1/images/I/51c2lCGRyWL._AC_SX679_.jpg The basic stihl file is all I use. That said you should sharpen with a file with every tank of gas. I made the mistake of not doing that when I was new to chainsaws, and my chains were so far gone filing did nothing and I had to take them to a shop to have them ground. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:46:18 AM EST
[#27]
https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLMUje6I1l64lLH5_AD4XwrHQ9A-I2F1RM
Maybe link will work. Good collection of chain sharpening videos. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:47:55 AM EST
[#28]
I have 3, 16" saws, and one 18". They all take the same file size, so I just buy a 10 pack of round files and do it by hand. Clamp the bar of the saw in a vise, line up the angle, and have at it. Takes me a couple of minutes per saw. If I get it far enough out of whack after several hand filings, I could get it machined sharpened. The thing is, I can get a 3-pack of Oregon advance cut chains 3 for the 16" for $30. For $10/chain, It's not worth paying to have them sharpened.
My biggest problem, is finding files that last more than 3-4 chains. 
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:48:04 AM EST
[#29]
I tried one of the handheld Oregon grinders. Still have it but just running the right size file every tank fill up works best for me. Most chains have an angle mark to follow. Once you do it a few times it gets easier. Angles matter. Unless I fuck it up bad I can usually get a lot of life out of a single chain.
It's even more important to keep the chain as sharp as possible on an electric saw. I don't let my DeWalt touch the ground and won't cut a dirty log with it. I tend not to be as graceful when bucking firewood with my 372XP.  I have several spare chains for all my saws but try not to use them until my current chain has reached end of life. Like others said don't forget the rakers. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:50:30 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have 3, 16" saws, and one 18". They all take the same file size, so I just buy a 10 pack of round files and do it by hand. Clamp the bar of the saw in a vise, line up the angle, and have at it. Takes me a couple of minutes per saw. If I get it far enough out of whack after several hand filings, I could get it machined sharpened. The thing is, I can get a 3-pack of Oregon advance cut chains 3 for the 16" for $30. For $10/chain, It's not worth paying to have them sharpened. My biggest problem, is finding files that last more than 3-4 chains. New files do suck pretty bad. I have a few older ones I have used for years. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:50:42 AM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Have a DeWalt 60v chainsaw. I use it for light work around the house, and for occasionally cutting up fallen logs on hunting trails and hunting spots. I wonder if it is simply more efficient to replace chains when they go dull, or is sharpening a better option? I have looked at the clamp on jigs that allow you to sharpen with a file, and now I see these cheap-o plastic clamshell sharpeners that you simply clamp on and close, and pull the trigger as the chain supposedly sharpens itself on the stone inside. What does GD say? Replace blades because they're cheap? Does the cheap thingy work? Or just get a sharpening jig and do it like a lumberjack? Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl This is just a rebranded PFERD sharpener at a 50% markup. 
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:53:20 AM EST
[#32]
Sharpening a chain takes about 2 minutes, even with a file. You don't need all these crazy jigs and machines to make a chain sharp enough to get work done. Yes, get a couple extra chains, but to use a chain once and throw it out is silly. Hit each tooth with a couple file strokes and every 5 or 6 touch ups hit the rakers with a couple strokes of a flat file. It's not rocket science.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 10:57:12 AM EST
[#33]
Just do it by hand and hit it with the right size rat tail file. Use the angle of the tooth to eyeball the angle. It’s very, very simple. Using a vise to clamp on the bar and hold the saw makes the job even easier.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:00:25 AM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Oh my god, y’all are incapable of using a file This. OP get a dozen files that fit. Not that hard. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:03:05 AM EST
[#35]
YouTube, a vise, a set of chain files and maybe a marker. That and 15mins is all you need.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:04:50 AM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've only ever used these with great success: https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/file-1025-649b244382338.jpeg?resize=980:* This is what I use as well. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:12:01 AM EST
[#37]
I use a dremel with a diamond bit. Takes about 2 minutes. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:16:59 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I use a dremel with a diamond bit. Takes about 2 minutes. This is the way 5/32 bit, eye ball the degree and grind away, doesn't take much to get it sharp again.. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:18:39 AM EST
[#39]
I use a 'hand' file and a guide, like the Stihl one pictured in a previous post. After many years I'm still amazed how fast and effective it is. Just make sure you get the appropriate size file for your chain.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:42:17 AM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: look for your chain size, it will be stamped on the sides of the chain bar...fine print, might have to look hard Go to hardware store (or Amazon) Buy Oregon brand round file for same chain size Go home and file chain freehand, good enuf' Big chips and fast cut means sharp chain...wood dust means dull chain BTW: Oregon brand makes a kit specifically for DeWalt with a non-lawyerproof (aggressive), fast cutting chain and matching 16" cutting bar It will make your electric chainsaw do all the work while your gas powered chainsaw gathers dust and finally ends up on Facebook market or Craigslist while your tennis elbow (from jerking a damn pull cord over-and-over,-and-over and over...) heals over the winter time https://duranterentals.com/wp-content/uploads/chainsaw-2Bside.png I ran a 20" Oregon Bar and carbide chain on a Husky 235e. They could have written a season of I shouldn't be alive with all of the shit I cut with that little thing. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:50:20 AM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: YouTube, a vise, a set of chain files and maybe a marker. That and 15mins is all you need. Yeh, the marker. Mark the starting point and go to town. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:53:50 AM EST
[#42]
I buy a three pack of chains cheap of Amazon once a year. I'm not great at sharpening but get 6 or 8 sharpening out of each before I screw them up. For the price it's not worth taking them somewhere to sharpen.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 11:58:50 AM EST
[#43]
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Posted: 12/8/2023 12:05:18 PM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl One or two passes with this every tank and mine stays like new. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 7:12:12 PM EST
[#45]
GD is AWESOME! Thank you all!
Good to know about Oregon! |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 7:15:32 PM EST
[#46]
I’ve never successfully sharpened anything so I say replace. If you are careful you can avoid doing dumb stuff that will dull the blade really fast.
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Posted: 12/8/2023 7:17:43 PM EST
[#47]
File with a guide.
Worst case..... you have to buy a new chain. Likely case...... you learn to file and enjoy an always sharp chain. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 7:20:40 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep, and learning to keep your chain out of the dirt & rocks is half the battle, |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 7:21:37 PM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: gimmicky shit doesn't work. lumberjack that chain. Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Have a DeWalt 60v chainsaw. I use it for light work around the house, and for occasionally cutting up fallen logs on hunting trails and hunting spots. I wonder if it is simply more efficient to replace chains when they go dull, or is sharpening a better option? I have looked at the clamp on jigs that allow you to sharpen with a file, and now I see these cheap-o plastic clamshell sharpeners that you simply clamp on and close, and pull the trigger as the chain supposedly sharpens itself on the stone inside. What does GD say? Replace blades because they're cheap? Does the cheap thingy work? Or just get a sharpening jig and do it like a lumberjack? Stihl makes a tool that has things fixtured in place in such a way that it's harder to dick it up. Or just take it to someone and pay the $25 once a year. Stihl I suck at chain sharpening even with that tool. |
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Posted: 12/8/2023 8:16:59 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've only ever used these with great success: https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/file-1025-649b244382338.jpeg?resize=980:* [/url] Get you one of these till you learn to free hand, I still use them to quick sharpen chain every time i fill the tank for a few refills, then i change chain so don't stretch them out too soon, so on and so forth. When chain starts cutting funky, i'll use my bench mounted hf sharpener, it's not oregon quality, but bit of paying attention it will square the tooth angles correctly. Ive got 8 chains for my 455 rancher for when i do some cutting on big stuff, i got a few of the little 38cc 16" black max saws i use for limbing the big trees fell with the 455 and for felling the 12" and smaller trees, got 6 chains for them (3ea), got the saws cheap on clearance, one i got several years ago and one recently, they start and run everytime and cut well for small saws. |
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