User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 10/20/2018 12:46:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It doesn't seem to last for a super long time. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/20/2018 1:54:55 PM EDT
[#2]
So my friend told me about a sale on some black filament. The first print I had a clogged nozzel and have to take my extruder apart and do a couple cold pulls to get it cleared. I won't blame the filament because it could have been something else. But this filament is not very consistent. Sometimes it sticks well sometimes not so much which I have never had an issue with my sheet of PEI. Well I decided the heck with it and have been printing Aztec Death Whistles nonstop for a little over a week. Going to give them out for Halloween.
Thoughts? |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/20/2018 4:24:46 PM EDT
[#3]
i have had some filament work better with others. once i went to the manorubot pretty much everything sticks perfectly so long as it is clean and the bed is properly leveled.
i have not had issues with clogs but i have had issues with cheap filaments not being consistent in thickness and causing under extrusion occasionally. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/21/2018 12:29:06 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
i have had some filament work better with others. once i went to the manorubot pretty much everything sticks perfectly so long as it is clean and the bed is properly leveled. i have not had issues with clogs but i have had issues with cheap filaments not being consistent in thickness and causing under extrusion occasionally. Not my video.  3D Printed Aztec Death Whistle |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/9/2018 12:42:18 PM EDT
[#5]
You would think that after saving the day for my wife with my 3D printer she would at least acknowledge that it is a useful device, but no, not a peep from her.
So my wife goes on a holiday decoration buying spree. She buys these two figurines of turkeys being ridden by children, one a boy and one a girl. She is so excited to show us these trinkets when my daughter points out that the boy's turkey is missing a leg. The figurine won't stand up without a leg. So I tell her I can fix it and off to tinkercad I go. I know tinkercad has a chicken foot with leg shape available, but it is kind of spindly for the figurine as the legs on these turkeys look a little out of proportion to a real turkey. Then I see that they now have dinosaur parts and I figure that since science now thinks that chickens and turkeys are related to dinosuars a dinosaur leg/foot might just work. So I grabbed the shin and foot that I needed, but they a locked so you can't change the dimensions, and I need to modify them. No problem, so I export them and import them so I can adjust the dimensions. After about 20 minutes of tinkering I have this.  Attached FilePrinting went smoothly and all I had to do was mix up some JB Weld to lock the foot to the shin and the shin to the hole where the leg broke off.  Attached FileNow just need to paint it, did not quite have any matching colors but it does not look too bad.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/9/2018 5:35:40 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You would think that after saving the day for my wife with my 3D printer she would at least acknowledge that it is a useful device, but no, not a peep from her. So my wife goes on a holiday decoration buying spree. She buys these two figurines of turkeys being ridden by children, one a boy and one a girl. She is so excited to show us these trinkets when my daughter points out that the boy's turkey is missing a leg. The figurine won't stand up without a leg. So I tell her I can fix it and off to tinkercad I go. I know tinkercad has a chicken foot with leg shape available, but it is kind of spindly for the figurine as the legs on these turkeys look a little out of proportion to a real turkey. Then I see that they now have dinosaur parts and I figure that since science now thinks that chickens and turkeys are related to dinosuars a dinosaur leg/foot might just work. So I grabbed the shin and foot that I needed, but they a locked so you can't change the dimensions, and I need to modify them. No problem, so I export them and import them so I can adjust the dimensions. After about 20 minutes of tinkering I have this. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/99902/turkey_parts_jpg-733101.JPG Printing went smoothly and all I had to do was mix up some JB Weld to lock the foot to the shin and the shin to the hole where the leg broke off. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/99902/T_repair__Large__jpg-733104.JPG Now just need to paint it, did not quite have any matching colors but it does not look too bad. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/99902/T_repair_01__Large__jpg-733106.JPG |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/11/2018 1:55:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@2A373 @oetkbyetdia Hit up the local Ace Hardware as I needed a half dozen Stainless #6-32 x 3/4". On the off chance I hit up the maintenance dept and ask if they had any large pieces of broken glass from a damaged pane. Sure enough he had a corner that was about 10"x14". I did some calcs in my gray matter and gave him directions on how to fudge the dimensions, his big T-Square type sheet glass cutter only had a scale of 1/8". Glass came out of the trash/scrap bin so he only hit me up for $1.50 for a single cut - labor only (tax free  ).
Fit was perfect on one axis and 1/16" over on the other. Win Win. Clean glass, no spray, 230°C Extruder and 82°C bed and 50mm/s rate seems the perfect match with a .25 layer height. Tried 235° and it left abit more 'hair'. Tried bed temps from 60°-90° and aborted at end of first layer to examine with magnifier. Other than the intentional testing aborts I have not lost a print on glass. Now - the quality of STL files, wow can I tell the difference of freeware generated vrs high end CAD/CAM. The files I designed printed fast and efficiently. Currently I am printing a STL from Thingiverse. This is truly scatter-brained, I mean the head is jumping all over seemingly at random like a crack head who needs a fix but has misplaced the stash.  Next I need to print some guards and cable management.
Will also order about 10 spare nozzles, a 2nd Mosfet board for the extruder and a SDcard remote socket & cable. - I only print direct from the SDcard as I know that there can be timing issues with high speed serial trainsfers on the newer Arduino processors (since they dropped the FTDI chip). Anyway - I'm a happy camper for now... ( Until my next software maint fee comes due for about $800/yr ) - I do need to devote time to learning Fusion360 as it might be a viable replacement for some to the CAD/CAM warez I use. Prob a little late, but I just figured out where the mentions were 
Score on the glass! 
Stl quality can usually be adjusted in the cad sw. Just turn up the number of polygons/triangles/vertices or whatever they call it to make the round stuff "rounder". The head jumping around has more to do with your slicer (cam/post proc) settings. Tune those up and it will go away. SD card print is the way to go. Too much risk over usb, unless you have dedicated hw like rasp pi/octo. This is more a pc thing, not really a prob between the serial chips. You have to manually install the drivers for the ones with the ch340 usb/serial chip. No big deal, just not automatic like the ftdi stuff. I'd guess they will eventually make the ch340 auto also, if they haven't already. For anybody else having a prob with this, here is the official driver from the mfg CH340 Driver |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/13/2018 11:12:24 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
i have had some filament work better with others. once i went to the manorubot pretty much everything sticks perfectly so long as it is clean and the bed is properly leveled. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/13/2018 3:26:00 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was actually expecting comments about giving Aztec Death whistles. When you blow them they sound like someone screaming and they are really loud. Not my video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEXTmB0vXfM , which means the wife hates it
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 9:14:04 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Manorubot appears to be a silicon baking mat. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 9:17:08 AM EDT
[#11]
wife told me last night to order a prusa mk3. started looking at them again. honestly i am starting to wonder about it. prints don;t look significantly better than what i have now and their community pages are covered up in problems. i expect that to some degree as most people only post for help but they seem to out number the tevo page in serious issues about 10-1.
anyone running a prusa mk3? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 12:08:05 PM EDT
[#12]
Started looking at 3D printers and this thread hits the first page of GD!
Looking at the Bibo, A little pricier but has a laser engraver as part of the package. Anyone using this or similar?  
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 12:37:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Started looking at 3D printers and this thread hits the first page of GD! Looking at the Bibo, A little pricier but has a laser engraver as part of the package. Anyone using this or similar? www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNADH8M |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 2:44:01 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
wife told me last night to order a prusa mk3. started looking at them again. honestly i am starting to wonder about it. prints don;t look significantly better than what i have now and their community pages are covered up in problems. i expect that to some degree as most people only post for help but they seem to out number the tevo page in serious issues about 10-1. anyone running a prusa mk3? ) The quality isn't perfect, you'll need to ream out the screw holes on many of the 3d printed parts
The quality of the hardware is so incredibly superior to the Ender. I used to do milspec mechanical assembly on radio chassis, the Prusa quality was more like what I was expecting than what I got with the Ender. The removable print bed sheet, and only rarely having to calibrate the bed height is worth the price of the upgrade. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have to dial the printer settings in your slicer (Slic3rPE is highly recommended) but the baseline print quality is much higher. If you haven't already, you'll want to start working with PETG. It's what the stock parts are printed in, and I find that I much prefer it to PLA. I haven't worked with ABS yet. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 2:47:41 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Started looking at 3D printers and this thread hits the first page of GD! Looking at the Bibo, A little pricier but has a laser engraver as part of the package. Anyone using this or similar? www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNADH8M |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 2:56:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I replaced my Ender 3 with it and couldn't be happier. If you order the kit, which I highly recommend, you'll find that no two pieces are put together (well, except for 2, and you have to take them apart ) The quality isn't perfect, you'll need to ream out the screw holes on many of the 3d printed parts
The quality of the hardware is so incredibly superior to the Ender. I used to do milspec mechanical assembly on radio chassis, the Prusa quality was more like what I was expecting than what I got with the Ender. The removable print bed sheet, and only rarely having to calibrate the bed height is worth the price of the upgrade. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have to dial the printer settings in your slicer (Slic3rPE is highly recommended) but the baseline print quality is much higher. If you haven't already, you'll want to start working with PETG. It's what the stock parts are printed in, and I find that I much prefer it to PLA. I haven't worked with ABS yet. my main concern was the amount of complaints i seem to see on these vs the mk2 version. that said many seem to be issues that are pretty easy to resolve if you understand how these work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2018 6:31:44 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
thanks, i am not unhappy with my tornado but i would like something with more consistent quality i mine does have some occasional weird issues especially with taller prints. i would defiantly be going with the kit. my main concern was the amount of complaints i seem to see on these vs the mk2 version. that said many seem to be issues that are pretty easy to resolve if you understand how these work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I replaced my Ender 3 with it and couldn't be happier. If you order the kit, which I highly recommend, you'll find that no two pieces are put together (well, except for 2, and you have to take them apart ) The quality isn't perfect, you'll need to ream out the screw holes on many of the 3d printed parts
The quality of the hardware is so incredibly superior to the Ender. I used to do milspec mechanical assembly on radio chassis, the Prusa quality was more like what I was expecting than what I got with the Ender. The removable print bed sheet, and only rarely having to calibrate the bed height is worth the price of the upgrade. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have to dial the printer settings in your slicer (Slic3rPE is highly recommended) but the baseline print quality is much higher. If you haven't already, you'll want to start working with PETG. It's what the stock parts are printed in, and I find that I much prefer it to PLA. I haven't worked with ABS yet. my main concern was the amount of complaints i seem to see on these vs the mk2 version. that said many seem to be issues that are pretty easy to resolve if you understand how these work. So I, and I suspect many others, have/had zero experience with 3D printing prior to firing up their Prusa MK3. So they, and I, will have lots of problems, some related to construction, others just due to plain old inexperience. Given that you've had a 3D printer for a while you'll have a basic understanding of what causes common issues and you'll either know the fix, or have to ask how to do the fix you already know, on the Prusa. Why are we still talking? You should have ordered it by now.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2018 1:52:28 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The MK3 is effectively my first printer since my Ender was such a POS that I couldn't get a decent print out of it in the 29 1/2 days I had it. So I, and I suspect many others, have/had zero experience with 3D printing prior to firing up their Prusa MK3. So they, and I, will have lots of problems, some related to construction, others just due to plain old inexperience. Given that you've had a 3D printer for a while you'll have a basic understanding of what causes common issues and you'll either know the fix, or have to ask how to do the fix you already know, on the Prusa. Why are we still talking? You should have ordered it by now. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2018 6:36:18 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
just ordered. i am blaming you when the wife sees the bill lol. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: The MK3 is effectively my first printer since my Ender was such a POS that I couldn't get a decent print out of it in the 29 1/2 days I had it. So I, and I suspect many others, have/had zero experience with 3D printing prior to firing up their Prusa MK3. So they, and I, will have lots of problems, some related to construction, others just due to plain old inexperience. Given that you've had a 3D printer for a while you'll have a basic understanding of what causes common issues and you'll either know the fix, or have to ask how to do the fix you already know, on the Prusa. Why are we still talking? You should have ordered it by now. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2018 10:08:57 PM EDT
[#20]
Thank goodness for ARFCOM! I have been playing with a Makerbot Replicator v5 for about a year. I think I am ready to step up to a big boy printer.
I keep coming back to the following ones: Tronxy X3 ($180) Creality CR-10 ($340) Creality Ender 3 ($180) I don't mind tinkering, taking my time, measuring / tweaking my printer. What I loathe is buying something for $180 that needs $140 in new print heads, gears, etc to be workable. Yes, there are many upgrades that can be built for any of these units. I just don't want to slap down $180 for the Tronxy x3 if I need to buy a new print head to have any semblance of quality to my builds. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/16/2018 12:11:34 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank goodness for ARFCOM! I have been playing with a Makerbot Replicator v5 for about a year. I think I am ready to step up to a big boy printer. I keep coming back to the following ones: Tronxy X3 ($180) Creality CR-10 ($340) Creality Ender 3 ($180) I don't mind tinkering, taking my time, measuring / tweaking my printer. What I loathe is buying something for $180 that needs $140 in new print heads, gears, etc to be workable. Yes, there are many upgrades that can be built for any of these units. I just don't want to slap down $180 for the Tronxy x3 if I need to buy a new print head to have any semblance of quality to my builds. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 2:41:56 PM EDT
[#22]
Hello all. Had a friend ask me about 3d printers and wanted to give one as a gift to his nephews who are 7 and 10yo. I am sure he wants to purchase it from Amazon. I was looking and so far the first one I found that seemed good for that age was the Flash Forge Finder. You guys have any more ideas. Probably needs to be enclosed because of the age. I told him sometimes even the most bulletproof ones need tinkering.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 6:07:24 PM EDT
[#23]
flashforge seems to have a good rep. the only thing i would say is that is a small build area. about 5.5" square. if you only wanting to do small prints it should be fine. if i was going that small i might save some money and get the monoprice mini. the MP has a heated bed and will print more than just pla.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 6:59:02 PM EDT
[#24]
Just an FYI, an EAA membership gets a years subscription to Solidworks student edition as part of the membership package.
https://www.eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 7:11:33 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
flashforge seems to have a good rep. the only thing i would say is that is a small build area. about 5.5" square. if you only wanting to do small prints it should be fine. if i was going that small i might save some money and get the monoprice mini. the MP has a heated bed and will print more than just pla. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 8:09:53 PM EDT
[#26]
my tornado is 300x300x400.
i have never printed that big but i have come close on a couple of projects. mostly on the width and length. after using this for the last year i don't think i want less than 200 or so. i am even having some concerns about the bed size on the prusa mk3 i just ordered. that's about as small as i would want. to me anything smaller is pretty much relegated to small parts and miniature figures. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 9:44:05 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
my tornado is 300x300x400. i have never printed that big but i have come close on a couple of projects. mostly on the width and length. after using this for the last year i don't think i want less than 200 or so. i am even having some concerns about the bed size on the prusa mk3 i just ordered. that's about as small as i would want. to me anything smaller is pretty much relegated to small parts and miniature figures. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 10:26:58 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
any of those will need some tinkering. personally i think the tevo tornado is a better value than the stock cr-10 but they both need some upgrades. nothing major mostly things like frame supports and hot end blowers. cheap and easily printed. none of those above will be out of the box easy like a makerbot. the downside to the tevo is factory support. they are horrible if you need a part replaced, that said VERY few parts on it are expensive with the exception of the glass bed and control board. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thank goodness for ARFCOM! I have been playing with a Makerbot Replicator v5 for about a year. I think I am ready to step up to a big boy printer. I keep coming back to the following ones: Tronxy X3 ($180) Creality CR-10 ($340) Creality Ender 3 ($180) I don't mind tinkering, taking my time, measuring / tweaking my printer. What I loathe is buying something for $180 that needs $140 in new print heads, gears, etc to be workable. Yes, there are many upgrades that can be built for any of these units. I just don't want to slap down $180 for the Tronxy x3 if I need to buy a new print head to have any semblance of quality to my builds. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 10:30:59 PM EDT
[#29]
Of the two, the Ender 3 is the best bet. Watch this guys Ender videos.
 T3DP 218 Ender 3 Update Review & Fixes for early model release units |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 11:03:12 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Of the two, the Ender 3 is the best bet. Watch this guys Ender videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffVe-Ir0La0Between the Ender 3 and the Tevo Tarantula, it seems like the ender 3 needs less upgrades: 30 must-have Ender 3 upgrades 26 Tarantula must have mods The tarantula "needs" a new PS AND a mosfet. The "needs" for the Ender 3 seems trivial (LED lighting). I'm going to sleep on it for awhile and see what sales pop up on black friday. Although $187 on eBay right now is tempting.... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 11:09:55 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you for the video! He sums much of my thoughts up by relating his experience with the machine. Between the Ender 3 and the Tevo Tarantula, it seems like the ender 3 needs less upgrades: 30 must-have Ender 3 upgrades 26 Tarantula must have mods The tarantula "needs" a new PS AND a mosfet. The "needs" for the Ender 3 seems trivial (LED lighting). I'm going to sleep on it for awhile and see what sales pop up on black friday. Although $187 on eBay right now is tempting.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Of the two, the Ender 3 is the best bet. Watch this guys Ender videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffVe-Ir0La0Between the Ender 3 and the Tevo Tarantula, it seems like the ender 3 needs less upgrades: 30 must-have Ender 3 upgrades 26 Tarantula must have mods The tarantula "needs" a new PS AND a mosfet. The "needs" for the Ender 3 seems trivial (LED lighting). I'm going to sleep on it for awhile and see what sales pop up on black friday. Although $187 on eBay right now is tempting.... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 11:29:14 PM EDT
[#32]
i have honestly heard nothing but horror stories about the tarantula. and tevo's support is non existant if you have an issue. if your going tevo go tornado. it's very easy to assemble and pretty much good to go out of the box. any mods are mostly just fun experimentation. the user community is huge. That said if something is bad or broken, your on your own to source parts. lucking they are pretty much off the rack and cheap.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2018 11:42:08 PM EDT
[#33]
My Tornado has been a good machine so far. The only issue is the print surface. Everything seems to go to shit and I go back to using blue tape. Thinking of trying Wham Bam next.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2018 12:00:13 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My Tornado has been a good machine so far. The only issue is the print surface. Everything seems to go to shit and I go back to using blue tape. Thinking of trying Wham Bam next. https://mamorubot.onloon.net/detail?itemId=c609aa9ca6fc4e958248e5039e449521 |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2018 2:10:58 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just an FYI, an EAA membership gets a years subscription to Solidworks student edition as part of the membership package. https://www.eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2018 3:42:27 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it's not cheap but the mamorubot PP print surface is the shit. prints stick like they are welded and fully come loose on cooling. it also helps to fix the bed warping issues from the spring stress on the glass bed. i haven't needed glue or tape since i got it. if the bed is level it sticks. https://mamorubot.onloon.net/detail?itemId=c609aa9ca6fc4e958248e5039e449521 |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2018 4:10:24 PM EDT
[#37]
i tried them all and for me this was by far the best pf them all. zero failed prints that were not related to bed level issues.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2018 4:27:20 PM EDT
[#38]
I'm still having very good luck with mirror and Aquanet hair spray. A flat surface is mandatory for good prints and it's easy to tell if a mirror isn't flat just by looking into it, if the image is warped so is the mirror. The hair spray holds well at 50c and releases easily once it cools. If I want it to cool fast I can take the mirror off the aluminum bed and it cools pretty fast.
I get 5-6 prints before I clean and reapply. The dried hairspray rinses off in the kitchen sink in under a minute. A big can of the hairspray costs $1.98 at Walmart and probably has enough in it to apply 30 times or so as well as occasional touch ups. I tried a PEI sheet, but the aluminum bed on the Ender 3 is not flat and flexible sheets will take on the shape of the bed. Hell, the glass sheet that came with my Alfawise U20 isn't flat and immediately got replaced with a 12"x12" mirror square from Lowes. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2018 5:42:25 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm still having very good luck with mirror and Aquanet hair spray. A flat surface is mandatory for good prints and it's easy to tell if a mirror isn't flat just by looking into it, if the image is warped so is the mirror. The hair spray holds well at 50c and releases easily once it cools. If I want it to cool fast I can take the mirror off the aluminum bed and it cools pretty fast. I get 5-6 prints before I clean and reapply. The dried hairspray rinses off in the kitchen sink in under a minute. A big can of the hairspray costs $1.98 at Walmart and probably has enough in it to apply 30 times or so as well as occasional touch ups. I tried a PEI sheet, but the aluminum bed on the Ender 3 is not flat and flexible sheets will take on the shape of the bed. Hell, the glass sheet that came with my Alfawise U20 isn't flat and immediately got replaced with a 12"x12" mirror square from Lowes. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/20/2018 11:46:59 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not bad to learn solidworks but keep in mind that files created on the student version can't be shared with any other programs than the solidworks student version. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just an FYI, an EAA membership gets a years subscription to Solidworks student edition as part of the membership package. https://www.eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/20/2018 9:44:00 PM EDT
[#41]
Just saw this, thought it was pretty cool, and at least somewhat related.
 NASA ScienceCasts: The In-Space Refabricator |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/21/2018 11:45:10 AM EDT
[#42]
There is a 15% off eBay coupon today (11/21) good for everything in your eBay app mobile cart.
Bought the Ender 3 and some PLA. Saved $30! Link to GD's eBay coupon thread. Coupon is only valid from 8 am to 8 pm from the mobile app today. eBay mobile PICKFAST |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/21/2018 12:56:45 PM EDT
[#43]
After reading this thread and a few other sources I ordered a Tevo Tornado, should be here next week.
Thinking about some upgrades: Bed plate options. Ultrabase, Borosilicate glass, What about plate glass? others? Filament run-out detector Raspberry Pi - Octoprint eventually a dual extruder Some of the printed items here: https://all3dp.com/1/tevo-tornado-upgrades-mods-3d-printer/ Any other hardware suggestions? I have some hobby experience with CAD software and am playing with Solidworks. Probably start with Cura for slicing. Anything else besides the frustration - fun curve?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2018 3:28:36 PM EDT
[#44]
got bit by the bug...
A "semi-assembled" Ender 3 is coming in Monday. This version has the "print on resume" feature (in case of power interruption) & a 5 minute print bed warm up. Power shouldn't be an issue since I'll power it off the UPS currently supporting a WIFI printer that is nearby. I added on a coated glass print bed & got a couple of rolls of PLA & one of PETG. I set up a personal license for Autodesk Fusion 360 & also downloaded a fair representation of the free 3D support software that is out there. Figure to try them out & find the one(s) that fit my needs ... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2018 3:49:27 PM EDT
[#45]
well it wasn't cheap but OMG this prusa makes my nipples moist
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2018 4:34:09 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
well it wasn't cheap but OMG this prusa makes my nipples moist |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2018 5:34:23 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
well it wasn't cheap but OMG this prusa makes my nipples moist |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2018 8:28:15 PM EDT
[#48]
yup. took about 10hrs to assemble.
print quality has been perfect since the first test. even using the cheap filament i have. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/2/2018 12:22:41 AM EDT
[#49]
If you'd like to join me in subtractive CNC.... https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Cheap-DIY-CNC-Hobby-Grade-CNC-Machine-Discussion-/5-2166944/
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/2/2018 11:42:44 AM EDT
[#50]
I found I could only get my Y carriage wheels on my Tevo Tarantula tight at the furthest of the concentric nut and lately with a little wear after a lot of prints, its a tiny bit sloppy and no more adjustment. Seems the concentric adjustment nuts were machined too wide of diameter. Also the bearing isn't a great fit on the screw the holds it all together either. So I put JB weld on the bottom part of the shaft that won't need threads. Made it slightly thick and sanded it down until it just barely fit. Though one problem is the bearing is slightly narrower ID than the concentric nut, so I have to sand off enough for the bearing to slide on but then the concentric nut is a little loose. I could put the bearing on then put on JB weld, but that'd make it more permanent, but I'd have to sand to get the wheel off and sanding dust would probably ruin the bearings. But it seems tight enough as it is. When I put it all back together, now I have much more tightness adjustment. I also added a washer just under the end nut at the top of the carriage so the whole long screw stays perpendicular and follows the concentric nut instead of staying in the center and angled. Hope this helps someone.
edit Also I found the slicer for some reason has a default of 200% extrusion on the first layer, which was adding to the extrusion problems I was having. I set it at 110% and the first layer doesn't look as globby. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
