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Posted: 12/3/2018 2:18:05 PM EDT
[#1]
So, I have assembled my Ender 3. Yeah, I did the extruder upgrade.
 Attached FileHere is what happens at <200° (Spoiler alert: the extruder "slips" as it pushes, and nothing comes out of the tip during the print. If I run the extruder with the tip hot at 200°, I make a pile of melted filament  Failed To Load Title Here is it working when I bumped up to 220°  Failed To Load Title BEAUTIFUL printing on glass with a heated bed!!!!!!! I tried to start a print this AM at 225°, and I got the same binding as in video 1. Any suggestions? |
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Posted: 12/3/2018 10:30:45 PM EDT
[#2]
OK, this is what I got from videos when doing pre-purchase research on the ender 3: Check the bowden tube fittings. If the tube doesn't stay stationary during the whole process can get slippage. If the bowden tube does not extend all the way to the nozzle, you can get a plug there.
Better fittings (w/metal teeth) can reduce the likelihood of the tube moving. They aren't expensive (& you probably need to change out the tube every 100 hours of print). This is what I bought for my ender 3 (should be here tomorrow): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can make the stock fittings less likely to slip if you add a clip to keep them from moving towards the "release" position. There are models on Thingiverse, an example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2677526 Hope this makes some sense & has some relevance to your situation ... |
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Posted: 12/3/2018 10:40:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Just got my Ender 3 in this afternoon. I did the assembly using a video for guidance - Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips which was good for pointing out some additional steps you can take to ensure that the frame is square & the print head beam is square to the frame. It also had some good pointers for bed leveling & a link to an .stl file for checking that initial leveling by printing some postage stamp size thin squares at all four corners & the middle.
I bought the coated glass bed along with the printer, so that got installed prior to the leveling. After following the instructions, the test file printed very nicely. Five little PLA postage stamps that popped off easily once the bed cooled, just using a piece of post-it as a spatula. The machine is currently printing the little dog sample g-code file & everything is looking good. 
The sample filament was running out, so I switched to a roll of silver. The pause & resume worked properly, but I should have pushed a little more out & cleaned off the excess before starting as the first bit of the resume may have been a bit light. finished up OK 
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Posted: 12/5/2018 12:49:33 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just got my Ender 3 in this afternoon. I did the assembly using a video for guidance - Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips which was good for pointing out some additional steps you can take to ensure that the frame is square & the print head beam is square to the frame. It also had some good pointers for bed leveling & a link to an .stl file for checking that initial leveling by printing some postage stamp size thin squares at all four corners & the middle. I bought the coated glass bed along with the printer, so that got installed prior to the leveling. After following the instructions, the test file printed very nicely. Five little PLA postage stamps that popped off easily once the bed cooled, just using a piece of post-it as a spatula. The machine is currently printing the little dog sample g-code file & everything is looking good. http://www.skhowell.com/images/20181203_224757.jpg The sample filament was running out, so I switched to a roll of silver. The pause & resume worked properly, but I should have pushed a little more out & cleaned off the excess before starting as the first bit of the resume may have been a bit light. finished up OK http://www.skhowell.com/images/20181204_073142.jpg Thoughts on the Ender 3, in no order: - It is QUIET. - It has a learning curve over my cookie cutter makerbot replicator. - After building it, and following a few build videos, it is amazingly SQUARE and true. - I'm not a big fan of the 4 wheels (2 with the offsets) to tighten the bed to the rail. - If you install the Y dampener for the motor, look and verify that the bed can still go full travel and be able to depress the liit switch. Moving my stepper motor outward caused it to bump in to the x frame that holds the heated bed up, and it would make a horrible sound when it couldn't get to that limit switch. |
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Posted: 12/5/2018 6:25:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was having an issue with the extruder gear "slipping". The problem was, the print nozzle was against the glass, and wasn't allowing the melted PLA to exit! I went in to the marketplace in CURA, and added the "Z Offset". Printing my cable chain now! Thoughts on the Ender 3, in no order: - It is QUIET. - It has a learning curve over my cookie cutter makerbot replicator. - After building it, and following a few build videos, it is amazingly SQUARE and true. - I'm not a big fan of the 4 wheels (2 with the offsets) to tighten the bed to the rail. - If you install the Y dampener for the motor, look and verify that the bed can still go full travel and be able to depress the liit switch. Moving my stepper motor outward caused it to bump in to the x frame that holds the heated bed up, and it would make a horrible sound when it couldn't get to that limit switch. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just got my Ender 3 in this afternoon. I did the assembly using a video for guidance - Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips which was good for pointing out some additional steps you can take to ensure that the frame is square & the print head beam is square to the frame. It also had some good pointers for bed leveling & a link to an .stl file for checking that initial leveling by printing some postage stamp size thin squares at all four corners & the middle. I bought the coated glass bed along with the printer, so that got installed prior to the leveling. After following the instructions, the test file printed very nicely. Five little PLA postage stamps that popped off easily once the bed cooled, just using a piece of post-it as a spatula. The machine is currently printing the little dog sample g-code file & everything is looking good. http://www.skhowell.com/images/20181203_224757.jpg The sample filament was running out, so I switched to a roll of silver. The pause & resume worked properly, but I should have pushed a little more out & cleaned off the excess before starting as the first bit of the resume may have been a bit light. finished up OK http://www.skhowell.com/images/20181204_073142.jpg Thoughts on the Ender 3, in no order: - It is QUIET. - It has a learning curve over my cookie cutter makerbot replicator. - After building it, and following a few build videos, it is amazingly SQUARE and true. - I'm not a big fan of the 4 wheels (2 with the offsets) to tighten the bed to the rail. - If you install the Y dampener for the motor, look and verify that the bed can still go full travel and be able to depress the liit switch. Moving my stepper motor outward caused it to bump in to the x frame that holds the heated bed up, and it would make a horrible sound when it couldn't get to that limit switch. |
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Posted: 12/5/2018 10:43:25 PM EDT
[#6]
The replacement bowden tube material & fittings came in today. No comparison oem vs replacment. The new fittings hold the tube rock solid (metal teeth, not plastic).
In the shot, I'm printing parts for vibration damping feet. Not sure how much good they may do, but will find out. I printed a temp tower to check the PLA I'm currently using. I was changing nozzle temps manually every 5mm, then found out I could have used CURA post-processing scripts to automatically do the temp change at the desired depths (doh!) I'll have to save a new version of the file with the temp setting scripts imbedded for use later to check new filament. |
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Posted: 12/5/2018 11:57:25 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just to double check, did adding a z-offset fix your problem described at the top of the page? Have you tuned away elephant footing? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just got my Ender 3 in this afternoon. I did the assembly using a video for guidance - Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips which was good for pointing out some additional steps you can take to ensure that the frame is square & the print head beam is square to the frame. It also had some good pointers for bed leveling & a link to an .stl file for checking that initial leveling by printing some postage stamp size thin squares at all four corners & the middle. I bought the coated glass bed along with the printer, so that got installed prior to the leveling. After following the instructions, the test file printed very nicely. Five little PLA postage stamps that popped off easily once the bed cooled, just using a piece of post-it as a spatula. The machine is currently printing the little dog sample g-code file & everything is looking good. http://www.skhowell.com/images/20181203_224757.jpg The sample filament was running out, so I switched to a roll of silver. The pause & resume worked properly, but I should have pushed a little more out & cleaned off the excess before starting as the first bit of the resume may have been a bit light. finished up OK http://www.skhowell.com/images/20181204_073142.jpg Thoughts on the Ender 3, in no order: - It is QUIET. - It has a learning curve over my cookie cutter makerbot replicator. - After building it, and following a few build videos, it is amazingly SQUARE and true. - I'm not a big fan of the 4 wheels (2 with the offsets) to tighten the bed to the rail. - If you install the Y dampener for the motor, look and verify that the bed can still go full travel and be able to depress the liit switch. Moving my stepper motor outward caused it to bump in to the x frame that holds the heated bed up, and it would make a horrible sound when it couldn't get to that limit switch. ALL: Having trouble with random 3d printing issues? Look here! https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ |
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Posted: 12/6/2018 12:00:23 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The replacement bowden tube material & fittings came in today. No comparison oem vs replacment. The new fittings hold the tube rock solid (metal teeth, not plastic). http://www.skhowell.com/images/new bowden.jpg In the shot, I'm printing parts for vibration damping feet. Not sure how much good they may do, but will find out. I printed a temp tower to check the PLA I'm currently using. I was changing nozzle temps manually every 5mm, then found out I could have used CURA post-processing scripts to automatically do the temp change at the desired depths (doh!) I'll have to save a new version of the file with the temp setting scripts imbedded for use later to check new filament. 3 things: What's the ASIN on the fittings? I got rid of the zip locks. Now my tubing floats normally with no pinch points. The wiring? I suspended it from the filament spool bracket with a long, lazy zip tie. I might print something to support it, but for now, all stresses have been removed. Have a link on this temperature tower with the temp scripts built in? Interested in learning how to set that up. |
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Posted: 12/6/2018 5:27:49 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@nikdfish 3 things: What's the ASIN on the fittings? I got rid of the zip locks. Now my tubing floats normally with no pinch points. The wiring? I suspended it from the filament spool bracket with a long, lazy zip tie. I might print something to support it, but for now, all stresses have been removed. Have a link on this temperature tower with the temp scripts built in? Interested in learning how to set that up. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The replacement bowden tube material & fittings came in today. No comparison oem vs replacment. The new fittings hold the tube rock solid (metal teeth, not plastic). http://www.skhowell.com/images/new bowden.jpg In the shot, I'm printing parts for vibration damping feet. Not sure how much good they may do, but will find out. I printed a temp tower to check the PLA I'm currently using. I was changing nozzle temps manually every 5mm, then found out I could have used CURA post-processing scripts to automatically do the temp change at the desired depths (doh!) I'll have to save a new version of the file with the temp setting scripts imbedded for use later to check new filament. 3 things: What's the ASIN on the fittings? I got rid of the zip locks. Now my tubing floats normally with no pinch points. The wiring? I suspended it from the filament spool bracket with a long, lazy zip tie. I might print something to support it, but for now, all stresses have been removed. Have a link on this temperature tower with the temp scripts built in? Interested in learning how to set that up.  
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Posted: 12/6/2018 6:30:01 AM EDT
[#10]
Bought my son an Ender 3 Pro for Xmas. I'll be referencing this thread quite abit I'm sure. My 3d printer is a forge and anvil, this new tech is witchcraft to me but it does seem to be something that can be extremely useful.
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Posted: 12/6/2018 11:30:11 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @nikdfish 3 things: What's the ASIN on the fittings? I got rid of the zip locks. Now my tubing floats normally with no pinch points. The wiring? I suspended it from the filament spool bracket with a long, lazy zip tie. I might print something to support it, but for now, all stresses have been removed. Have a link on this temperature tower with the temp scripts built in? Interested in learning how to set that up.  Cura 3.2.1 vs Temperature Tower take 2 When setting tweaks based on Z height, you can specify either layer count or actual vertical measurement. You can also do things like automatically pause a print to change filament color, etc. I haven't saved an edited g-code yet, but when I do I will post a link |
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Posted: 12/8/2018 10:39:38 AM EDT
[#12]
I found this on Thingiverse. Pretty neat. I had an an idea to make sets of these to give to my mother and my sister for the holiday but holy fook, it's a 35 hour print. Maybe each will only get one.
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Posted: 12/8/2018 4:22:18 PM EDT
[#13]
Well, that was fun while it lasted. Amazon showed up with some holiday colored filament that I ordered so I thought I would get busy making some candy dishes mentioned in my last post. I figured that I would let my Tornado print the bowl and have the Ender print the smaller parts. Get things sliced up and my micro SD card doesn't have printer files on it. For some reason it has system files from my cell phone
 Then the PC decided that it didn't want to read that card at all. OK, fuck it, the Tornado can just print everything. No problems reading the full size SD card. Get everything warmed up and level and hit print. Halfway through the first layer the extruder decided it didn't want to extrude. Took everything apart and there were no clogs or cooties in anything. Extruder gears look good and the stepper motor is working. Put it all back together, hit print and hey! it working. Half way through the first layer and it's back on strike.
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Posted: 12/8/2018 5:32:04 PM EDT
[#14]
Bought one of these (micro -> standard SD adapter) for the Ender 3 so I'd have an alternative to the micro-SD:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9JIUU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 
It works as advertised, but have mainly been printing via USB from CURA from the laptop next to the Ender-3 so I don't have to keep shuttling cards around when playing with different settings (still working through the first portions of the learning curve ...). Any chance a fitting at one end of the bowden tube is letting the tube slide? |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 2:16:33 PM EDT
[#15]
My extruder clicks and slips every once in awhile. I got rid of it for awhile by bumping up the Z axis offset. I am up to 0.28mm of offset, and it comes and goes sporadically.
I redid my setup following the relevant portions of the Precision Alignment Guide: Might be a FB link to a Creality community guide... Thoughts? |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 2:35:21 PM EDT
[#16]
So I have been plugging away quite happy with my AnyCubic Kossel Delta Ultra printers.
I've been successfully selling my military ordnance replicas and model rockets. I really like the delta configuration for round objects such as rockets. I would like to catch up on any new technologies. So what is now out there at affordable prices? Here are some thoughts I had to consider on my next printer purchases, there may be other new things, I'd love to hear. 1. I could benefit from dual extrusion for support for use with dissoluble support material. 2. How is wireless printing technology? Design on a computer and send wirelessly to printer? 3. I've been wondering if print quality has improved much over the past couple years. I just did a quick .4mm nozzle .1mm layer Yoda Last night, haven't even bothered cleaning it up yet. How does it compare to current printers? 
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Posted: 12/9/2018 2:47:06 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My extruder clicks and slips every once in awhile. I got rid of it for awhile by bumping up the Z axis offset. I am up to 0.28mm of offset, and it comes and goes sporadically. I redid my setup following the relevant portions of the Precision Alignment Guide: Might be a FB link to a Creality community guide... Thoughts? 
Additionally if you have a feeding tube and the filament doesn't slide back and forth freely through it, there can be enough resistance for the extruder to miss steps, this can also happen spontaneously if the filament is inconsistent across the spool Most all my other extruder issues have been stoppages in the extruder throat tube, or damage to the ptfe tube inside the throat tube, typically plastic that has built up over time from pulling filament out that is hot or melting. Best to push through your new filament if you have to swap, but if you have to pull out from the extruder tube, do it at the lowest temperature it will pull free. I typically start tugging around 150c. |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 3:07:23 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My extruder clicks and slips every once in awhile. I got rid of it for awhile by bumping up the Z axis offset. I am up to 0.28mm of offset, and it comes and goes sporadically. I redid my setup following the relevant portions of the Precision Alignment Guide: Might be a FB link to a Creality community guide... Thoughts? https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32904209624.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32904209624&productSubject=trianglelab-Drivegear-kit-dual-drive-gear-extruder-kit-Cloned-Btech-upgrade-for-Prusa-i3-3d-printer |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 3:26:26 PM EDT
[#19]
If I was buying a replacement extruder for my ender 3, I'd be taking a close look at this one:
https://www.seemecnc.com/products/ezrstruder (SEEMECNC EZR STRUDER) 
It is supposed to handle any 1.75 mm filaments, including the really soft ones like NinjaFlex . |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 7:12:05 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I have been plugging away quite happy with my AnyCubic Kossel Delta Ultra printers. I've been successfully selling my military ordnance replicas and model rockets. I really like the delta configuration for round objects such as rockets. I would like to catch up on any new technologies. So what is now out there at affordable prices? Here are some thoughts I had to consider on my next printer purchases, there may be other new things, I'd love to hear. 1. I could benefit from dual extrusion for support for use with dissoluble support material. The least expensive dual extrusion from the factory is the "new" CR-10. Or you could buy an Ender 3 and upgrade the main board and add a dual extruder. I'm not certain which would cost less. If money is no object you could get a Prusa MK3 with an MMU for 5 filament printing. 2. How is wireless printing technology? Design on a computer and send wirelessly to printer? Get a Raspberry Pi 3 and put the Octoprint image on the SD card. This assumes that your printer has a USB port and can be driven externally. If not, both Creality printers and the Prusa can. 3. I've been wondering if print quality has improved much over the past couple years. I just did a quick .4mm nozzle .1mm layer Yoda Last night, haven't even bothered cleaning it up yet. How does it compare to current printers? Your print of Yoda looks fine to me, but I imagine you've been tweaking hardware and slicer settings for a while. You'll have to start that process all over again regardless of which printer you get. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/226828/nativity_yoda-766450.jpg |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 1:09:18 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it's not cheap but the mamorubot PP print surface is the shit. prints stick like they are welded and fully come loose on cooling. it also helps to fix the bed warping issues from the spring stress on the glass bed. i haven't needed glue or tape since i got it. if the bed is level it sticks. https://mamorubot.onloon.net/detail?itemId=c609aa9ca6fc4e958248e5039e449521 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My Tornado has been a good machine so far. The only issue is the print surface. Everything seems to go to shit and I go back to using blue tape. Thinking of trying Wham Bam next. https://mamorubot.onloon.net/detail?itemId=c609aa9ca6fc4e958248e5039e449521 Question about the mamorubot print surface. Does it replace the glass bed or just sit on top of it? |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 2:23:53 AM EDT
[#22]
My first time hand painting a print.
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Posted: 12/10/2018 8:27:46 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just in case you're color blind, the answers are inline and bold. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So I have been plugging away quite happy with my AnyCubic Kossel Delta Ultra printers. I've been successfully selling my military ordnance replicas and model rockets. I really like the delta configuration for round objects such as rockets. I would like to catch up on any new technologies. So what is now out there at affordable prices? Here are some thoughts I had to consider on my next printer purchases, there may be other new things, I'd love to hear. 1. I could benefit from dual extrusion for support for use with dissoluble support material. The least expensive dual extrusion from the factory is the "new" CR-10. Or you could buy an Ender 3 and upgrade the main board and add a dual extruder. I'm not certain which would cost less. If money is no object you could get a Prusa MK3 with an MMU for 5 filament printing. 2. How is wireless printing technology? Design on a computer and send wirelessly to printer? Get a Raspberry Pi 3 and put the Octoprint image on the SD card. This assumes that your printer has a USB port and can be driven externally. If not, both Creality printers and the Prusa can. 3. I've been wondering if print quality has improved much over the past couple years. I just did a quick .4mm nozzle .1mm layer Yoda Last night, haven't even bothered cleaning it up yet. How does it compare to current printers? Your print of Yoda looks fine to me, but I imagine you've been tweaking hardware and slicer settings for a while. You'll have to start that process all over again regardless of which printer you get. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/226828/nativity_yoda-766450.jpg With the Raspberry Pi 3 mod you spoke of. Would this allow me to be sitting in the living room and tell one of my printers to begin printing in the shop, or is this mod simply avoiding having to have another dedicated laptop? |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 8:48:50 AM EDT
[#24]
it sits on top of it. you do need to raise the bed temp about 10 degrees when using.
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Posted: 12/10/2018 8:50:36 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doesn't sound like I am missing out on anything yet, not seeing any quality Delta printers with dual extrusion. With the Raspberry Pi 3 mod you spoke of. Would this allow me to be sitting in the living room and tell one of my printers to begin printing in the shop, or is this mod simply avoiding having to have another dedicated laptop? |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 11:50:18 AM EDT
[#26]
I finally tried the post-processing gcode modification option in Cura (I'm using v. 3.6.0) to set up a PLA temp test tower with automatic extrusion temperature changes. It works as described.
In Cura, you use the "Extensions" menu pull-down, selecting "post-processing" & "Modify G-code". That opens a Post Processing Plugin window. On that window you click on the "Add a script" button & select "ChangeAtZ 5.1.1 (Experimental)". Trigger can be level or height. Behavior will be "Keep value" so that the change will continue beyond the current layer. There are a number of areas listed that can be changed, but in this case I just checked "Change Extruder 1 Temp" & then entered the desired temp. This has to be done for each change point you want. For this model, the base was 1.6mm so that was my starting point, then an additionial change every 10mm. With the scripts added, I processed the file again to generate the desired G-code. This is the G-code file I did for my Ender 3: ender-3-AutoChangeTemperatureTower_PLA_180-225.gcode If you are curious about the added changes, open it with a text editor & you can locate the temp change lines by searching for "M104". The model was found on Thingiverse: Smart compact temperature calibration tower by gaaZolee Published on December 25, 2017 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076 The G-code I linked was set up for my Ender-3 with a glass bed. It starts with the extruder at 200° C and the bed at 65° C and a skirt around the print. Layers are .2mm with infill set for 15%. Cura says the model will consume about 5.5 m of filament. When the model reaches a 1.6mm height, the extruder temperature is bumped up to to 225° C. It changes by -5° C every 10mm thereafter. The last layer is printed at 180° C. Printed with some 3D Solutech silver PLA 
Looks like 195 & lower has structure issues & stringing gets progressively more cobwebby above 205 |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 3:49:00 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doesn't sound like I am missing out on anything yet, not seeing any quality Delta printers with dual extrusion. With the Raspberry Pi 3 mod you spoke of. Would this allow me to be sitting in the living room and tell one of my printers to begin printing in the shop, or is this mod simply avoiding having to have another dedicated laptop? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So I have been plugging away quite happy with my AnyCubic Kossel Delta Ultra printers. I've been successfully selling my military ordnance replicas and model rockets. I really like the delta configuration for round objects such as rockets. I would like to catch up on any new technologies. So what is now out there at affordable prices? Here are some thoughts I had to consider on my next printer purchases, there may be other new things, I'd love to hear. 1. I could benefit from dual extrusion for support for use with dissoluble support material. The least expensive dual extrusion from the factory is the "new" CR-10. Or you could buy an Ender 3 and upgrade the main board and add a dual extruder. I'm not certain which would cost less. If money is no object you could get a Prusa MK3 with an MMU for 5 filament printing. 2. How is wireless printing technology? Design on a computer and send wirelessly to printer? Get a Raspberry Pi 3 and put the Octoprint image on the SD card. This assumes that your printer has a USB port and can be driven externally. If not, both Creality printers and the Prusa can. 3. I've been wondering if print quality has improved much over the past couple years. I just did a quick .4mm nozzle .1mm layer Yoda Last night, haven't even bothered cleaning it up yet. How does it compare to current printers? Your print of Yoda looks fine to me, but I imagine you've been tweaking hardware and slicer settings for a while. You'll have to start that process all over again regardless of which printer you get. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/226828/nativity_yoda-766450.jpg With the Raspberry Pi 3 mod you spoke of. Would this allow me to be sitting in the living room and tell one of my printers to begin printing in the shop, or is this mod simply avoiding having to have another dedicated laptop? ETA Astroprint is a commercialized version of Octoprint. If you have more $$$ that tech skills (or time) that's a perfectly good way to go as well. |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 4:42:33 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Octoprint runs the printer, connects to your network via WiFi, and has a Web page you access from whatever local computer you're sitting in front of. There are apps for iOS and Android as well. There are plugins for Telegram and other chat apps that will send you a status report and a pic (assuming a webcam or Pi Cam is attached to the RasPi). You can also do time lapse images of your print. I got a bit off track here, to answer what you did ask, yes you can drag and drop files onto the Octoprint page in your browser, tell it to start printing, stop printing, preheat the bed or nozzle, it shows you a graph of recent temps for each... It does a LOT of really cool stuff. Absolutely worth the price of the RasPi. Print a Pi case (of which there are a multitude on Thingiverse) and go to town. Octoprint is almost certainly the best aftermarket addition I've made to my printer. ETA Astroprint is a commercialized version of Octoprint. If you have more $$$ that tech skills (or time) that's a perfectly good way to go as well. the free account gives you pretty much everything but print ques. |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 6:03:20 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
astroprint is free except for the hardware. the free account gives you pretty much everything but print ques. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Octoprint runs the printer, connects to your network via WiFi, and has a Web page you access from whatever local computer you're sitting in front of. There are apps for iOS and Android as well. There are plugins for Telegram and other chat apps that will send you a status report and a pic (assuming a webcam or Pi Cam is attached to the RasPi). You can also do time lapse images of your print. I got a bit off track here, to answer what you did ask, yes you can drag and drop files onto the Octoprint page in your browser, tell it to start printing, stop printing, preheat the bed or nozzle, it shows you a graph of recent temps for each... It does a LOT of really cool stuff. Absolutely worth the price of the RasPi. Print a Pi case (of which there are a multitude on Thingiverse) and go to town. Octoprint is almost certainly the best aftermarket addition I've made to my printer. ETA Astroprint is a commercialized version of Octoprint. If you have more $$$ that tech skills (or time) that's a perfectly good way to go as well. the free account gives you pretty much everything but print ques. |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 8:39:23 PM EDT
[#30]
I bought a pack of 8mm OD 20mm yellow springs to replace the stock Ender 3 bed leveling springs with a stiffer set. They came 20 to the pack, so I have 16 left over, anyone need/want four for their Ender 3? They are significantly stiffer than the stock springs. They were one of the "easy updates" an ALL3DP article listed for the Ender 3.
If you could use a set, message me an address & I'll put 4 in the mail (I don't check the messenger thing very often - if I don't reply, give me a heads up in this thread ...) |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 8:40:53 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it sits on top of it. you do need to raise the bed temp about 10 degrees when using. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 9:26:40 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Print surface has been ordered. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 9:49:15 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it's the best upgrade i made for my tornado. solved the bed level issues and prints stick like crazy then completely release once cool. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Print surface has been ordered. What build surface are you talking about? The magnetic, glass, or the standard stick-down one? My glass was awesome "in the raw", then builds started breaking loose halfway through. So, I scrubbed it with windex and alcohol. No dice. A spritz of aquanet and it sticks like crazy. Takes a little pull to get it off once the bed cools to ambient. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 10:18:39 AM EDT
[#34]
mamorubot PP plate
https://mamorubot.onloon.net/detail?itemId=c609aa9ca6fc4e958248e5039e449521 |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 1:35:16 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @The_Beer_Slayer @RV8guy What build surface are you talking about? The magnetic, glass, or the standard stick-down one? My glass was awesome "in the raw", then builds started breaking loose halfway through. So, I scrubbed it with windex and alcohol. No dice. A spritz of aquanet and it sticks like crazy. Takes a little pull to get it off once the bed cools to ambient. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 2:09:37 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I bought the mamorubot build surface because TBS said it was good. We'll see when it gets here. If it turns out to be bunk, I'm driving to his house and drinking all his beer. |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 11:13:20 PM EDT
[#37]
I have four extra yellow print bed upgrade springs. Free to a team member who has an Ender 3.
If I print a temp tower, and enter the "Tweak at Z" settings, do I need to go back in to Cura and delete them before I print something else? (If I DON'T delete them, do they remain and affect every print after the temp tower at the specified Z heights?) Is there a checkbox somewhere in Cura that I can disable the "Tweak at Z" effects, but leave the scripts? |
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Posted: 12/14/2018 12:08:16 AM EDT
[#38]
Got the new version of the Tornado. It has a glass bed that seems to work pretty well except for black PLA. Aqua-Net did the trick for that.
Getting to know Solidworks is interesting, but I did manage to draw up and print this miniature speaker. 50% scaled and the parts still fit.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/14/2018 1:28:42 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bought a pack of 8mm OD 20mm yellow springs to replace the stock Ender 3 bed leveling springs with a stiffer set. They came 20 to the pack, so I have 16 left over, anyone need/want four for their Ender 3? They are significantly stiffer than the stock springs. They were one of the "easy updates" an ALL3DP article listed for the Ender 3. If you could use a set, message me an address & I'll put 4 in the mail (I don't check the messenger thing very often - if I don't reply, give me a heads up in this thread ...) |
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Posted: 12/14/2018 1:38:47 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cheers! PM sent |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 6:47:55 PM EDT
[#41]
Been out of the game forever. Is the CR10 still the go to machine for larger print capacity? I see Folgertech has a monster machine now.
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Posted: 12/15/2018 8:52:00 PM EDT
[#42]
Frickin tornado is about to get the hammer.
 It has decided now to not turn on about half of the time and only extrude filament about 50% of the time.
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Posted: 12/15/2018 9:50:52 PM EDT
[#43]
if you have the original board the gen l is well worth the upgrade. oder direct fromttevo and it will be preflashed with code.
assuming the controller is your issue. that fixed a lot of weird issues on mine |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 10:29:05 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
if you have the original board the gen l is well worth the upgrade. oder direct fromttevo and it will be preflashed with code. assuming the controller is your issue. that fixed a lot of weird issues on mine |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 10:46:02 PM EDT
[#45]
they have a store on aliexpress
https://tevo.aliexpress.com/store/2010004# this is what i ordered. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TEVO-3D-Printer-parts-MKS-Base-V1-4-3D-Printer-Control-Board-With-USB-Mega-2560/32808816956.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.62344c4dKxTc8V |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 12:19:57 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
they have a store on aliexpress https://tevo.aliexpress.com/store/2010004# this is what i ordered. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TEVO-3D-Printer-parts-MKS-Base-V1-4-3D-Printer-Control-Board-With-USB-Mega-2560/32808816956.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.62344c4dKxTc8V |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 12:43:03 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Been out of the game forever. Is the CR10 still the go to machine for larger print capacity? I see Folgertech has a monster machine now. For that reason, I am seriously considering a hypercube or similar design, like the Folgertech FT-5 R2, where the moving mass for X and Y moves is closer to equal. If that machine had a 400x400 XY build area, I would probably have purchased it already. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 10:14:27 AM EDT
[#49]
Definite maintenance and upgrade time for the Tornado. After dicking with thing for a good while last night I finally got a print going. Nothing fancy, just a new spool holder design that I thought was kind of interesting. Woke up this morning and the print was finished. When I took it off of the bed it broke in half. A layer in the middle didn't stick. upon closer inspection, another layer about 1mm above the break point didn't stick. Also, about 1cm about the break, the whole thing shifted about 5mm along the longitudinal axis of the part.
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Posted: 12/16/2018 11:20:00 AM EDT
[#50]
what filament?
assuming it was well stuck to the bed check your belt tension. also the sd card on these is well known crap that can cause issues a well. mine began having some weird layer shift issues and then the thermistor connector blew and just refused to read anymore. the genl board fixed it all. i had planned on upgrading the power supply to a decent one at some point as well but so far it's fine. i have not done a firmware flash on these so i am not real sure how easy it is. that is why i ordered the board preflashed. i am sure the guys on the FB page can help with that. |
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