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Posted: 2/17/2013 12:40:44 AM EDT
[#1]
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I bought one of those surefire knock off bodies that take two of the batteries used in laptop battery packs and got a high output incandescent bulb for it. You can only run it for a few minutes at a time but it will char paper from an inch away. A cool thing to do with it is point it at your hand and turn it on for a second until your hand burns a little then when you turn it off you touch the glass bezel it's still cold. I mount it on my AR for HD because it will blind the shit out of anyone. It's okay I understand your need to joke around. lol Also you could use that light you made to give people tans on a lower setting and make some dough. You just gave me a bad idea. Wait for someone to pass out drunk at a party then use the light to give little round sunburns that look like rashes. 
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Posted: 2/17/2013 12:52:26 AM EDT
[#2]
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http://www.fenixlight.com/viewproduct.asp?id=171 Fenix TK35. I have one. It's a great light. 860 lumens max. The 860 compares with a high beam headlight. This is my recommendation also. I own one too. The TK35 is pretty amazing for $100. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:42:20 AM EDT
[#3]
I carry a Streamlight PROTAC-1L which I think will meet your needs quite nicely. It is inexpensive too.
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Posted: 2/17/2013 7:49:48 AM EDT
[#4]
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Why not another Fury? I just picked up a EB1 that is also really nice. Would like to have more battery life and at least 1000 lumens. Does not compute. The Fenix TK70 has a 930 lumen mode that runs for 4 hours, so that is pretty gtg imo. Dang, that is pretty impressive. I'm used to looking at/ carrying small lights so I forgot how crazy some of these bigger lights are these days. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 7:54:53 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What you said about the CR 123 type lights not dying till the end have me confused, cause the Sufire Fury I have dims after 1 hour then stays on for another hour then dies.You can not go wrong with Fenix. What type of a battery do you want to use? AAA, AA, CR123 CR 123 will give you the best battery life and the best performance (It doesn't go dimmer as the battery runs down ...it stays bright right up to the end and then flickers before dying) but they are a bit more expensive. Then pick your lumens. Go a minimum of 200 with a two or three way dimming option on the light. You do not need full power all the time and at the lowest power the batteries can last a long time. The type of battery that you have in your flashlight is one of the most important factors to consider for many different reasons. If your life may be dependent on whether or not your flash light works then you should strongly consider a flashlight that uses lithium CR123 batteries. The life of one of these batteries in a high lumen flashlight may be double that of a standard alkaline AA battery. A CR123 Lithium will also provide virtually full power/lumen right up to the point that the battery dies .......versus an Alkaline AA becoming dimmer and dimmer over the last so many hours that the battery dies. The only downside to CR123 batteries is that they are not available for sell everywhere that other batteries are sold......but you should buy your batteries over the net anyway to get your best price. UM, wat? totally not the case. you should really do more reading before posting old info. how the the light works depends on the circuitry inside it. some lights are "direct drive" and NO MATTER which type cell it uses it will diminish in brightness as the batteries get weaker. then there are "regulated circuits" these lights will keep a constant level of brightness until the battery hits the lowest voltage the circuitry is designed to work at. 123A's provide no more or less light in a regulated light than a AA battery. OP if you really want light output look into 18650 powered lights. be warned, in order to get higher output and longer battery life you will have to have a flashlight that is pretty big. high output comes with the cost of shorter run times. the key is to find where they equal out in light output, size, and battery life. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?233961-Quick-CR123A-and-AA-Battery-Shoot-out-Comparison Compare the light output rates vs time for lithium compared to alkaline. Using the T15 (AA), The Alkaline begin to decrease in light output immediately. The Lithium AAs haves a flat line output for about the first 120 minutes. Now given the fact that the CR123 has about double the capacity that an Alkaline AA has...... http://www.flashlight-blog.com/2010/11/cr123a-or-aa.html A Cr123 lithium battery flashlight is a much better choice. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 7:56:34 AM EDT
[#6]
Streamlight!!
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Posted: 2/17/2013 8:27:51 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted: Quoted: I have a battery LanternQuoted: (Camping + desert) * needing a light = Kerosene lantern. Yup. I got a Dietz "Jupiter" lantern from Lehman's and I love it! A good lantern is definitely worth having. I'll buy a couple more for my SHTF stash. Well if that 230 lumen lantern lasts 40-90hrs on 3 D cell batteries, my 6 D cell 200 lumen should easily last 100+ hrs  |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 11:01:39 AM EDT
[#8]
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What you said about the CR 123 type lights not dying till the end have me confused, cause the Sufire Fury I have dims after 1 hour then stays on for another hour then dies.
You can not go wrong with Fenix. What type of a battery do you want to use? AAA, AA, CR123 CR 123 will give you the best battery life and the best performance (It doesn't go dimmer as the battery runs down ...it stays bright right up to the end and then flickers before dying) but they are a bit more expensive. Then pick your lumens. Go a minimum of 200 with a two or three way dimming option on the light. You do not need full power all the time and at the lowest power the batteries can last a long time. The type of battery that you have in your flashlight is one of the most important factors to consider for many different reasons. If your life may be dependent on whether or not your flash light works then you should strongly consider a flashlight that uses lithium CR123 batteries. The life of one of these batteries in a high lumen flashlight may be double that of a standard alkaline AA battery. A CR123 Lithium will also provide virtually full power/lumen right up to the point that the battery dies .......versus an Alkaline AA becoming dimmer and dimmer over the last so many hours that the battery dies. The only downside to CR123 batteries is that they are not available for sell everywhere that other batteries are sold......but you should buy your batteries over the net anyway to get your best price. UM, wat? totally not the case. you should really do more reading before posting old info. how the the light works depends on the circuitry inside it. some lights are "direct drive" and NO MATTER which type cell it uses it will diminish in brightness as the batteries get weaker. then there are "regulated circuits" these lights will keep a constant level of brightness until the battery hits the lowest voltage the circuitry is designed to work at. 123A's provide no more or less light in a regulated light than a AA battery. OP if you really want light output look into 18650 powered lights. be warned, in order to get higher output and longer battery life you will have to have a flashlight that is pretty big. high output comes with the cost of shorter run times. the key is to find where they equal out in light output, size, and battery life. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?233961-Quick-CR123A-and-AA-Battery-Shoot-out-Comparison Compare the light output rates vs time for lithium compared to alkaline. Using the T15 (AA), The Alkaline begin to decrease in light output immediately. The Lithium AAs haves a flat line output for about the first 120 minutes. Now given the fact that the CR123 has about double the capacity that an Alkaline AA has...... http://www.flashlight-blog.com/2010/11/cr123a-or-aa.html A Cr123 lithium battery flashlight is a much better choice. 123A's are not double that of a AA battery. i use eneloops which are rated at 2000mAh's, that is 500 MORE mAh's than a 123A. 123A's are double the voltage, 3v vs 1.5(1.2 average for rechargeables). again, it will all depend on the circuity in the light. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 3:15:04 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What you said about the CR 123 type lights not dying till the end have me confused, cause the Sufire Fury I have dims after 1 hour then stays on for another hour then dies.You can not go wrong with Fenix. What type of a battery do you want to use? AAA, AA, CR123 CR 123 will give you the best battery life and the best performance (It doesn't go dimmer as the battery runs down ...it stays bright right up to the end and then flickers before dying) but they are a bit more expensive. Then pick your lumens. Go a minimum of 200 with a two or three way dimming option on the light. You do not need full power all the time and at the lowest power the batteries can last a long time. The type of battery that you have in your flashlight is one of the most important factors to consider for many different reasons. If your life may be dependent on whether or not your flash light works then you should strongly consider a flashlight that uses lithium CR123 batteries. The life of one of these batteries in a high lumen flashlight may be double that of a standard alkaline AA battery. A CR123 Lithium will also provide virtually full power/lumen right up to the point that the battery dies .......versus an Alkaline AA becoming dimmer and dimmer over the last so many hours that the battery dies. The only downside to CR123 batteries is that they are not available for sell everywhere that other batteries are sold......but you should buy your batteries over the net anyway to get your best price. UM, wat? totally not the case. you should really do more reading before posting old info. how the the light works depends on the circuitry inside it. some lights are "direct drive" and NO MATTER which type cell it uses it will diminish in brightness as the batteries get weaker. then there are "regulated circuits" these lights will keep a constant level of brightness until the battery hits the lowest voltage the circuitry is designed to work at. 123A's provide no more or less light in a regulated light than a AA battery. OP if you really want light output look into 18650 powered lights. be warned, in order to get higher output and longer battery life you will have to have a flashlight that is pretty big. high output comes with the cost of shorter run times. the key is to find where they equal out in light output, size, and battery life. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?233961-Quick-CR123A-and-AA-Battery-Shoot-out-Comparison Compare the light output rates vs time for lithium compared to alkaline. Using the T15 (AA), The Alkaline begin to decrease in light output immediately. The Lithium AAs haves a flat line output for about the first 120 minutes. Now given the fact that the CR123 has about double the capacity that an Alkaline AA has...... http://www.flashlight-blog.com/2010/11/cr123a-or-aa.html A Cr123 lithium battery flashlight is a much better choice. 123A's are not double that of a AA battery. i use eneloops which are rated at 2000mAh's, that is 500 MORE mAh's than a 123A. 123A's are double the voltage, 3v vs 1.5(1.2 average for rechargeables). again, it will all depend on the circuity in the light. My second link from Flashlight Blogs stated that "The CR123A battery is also a better performer in terms of capacity. The CR123A battery has about 1500 mAh (double that of a AA alkaline battery), which means that the flashlight that uses it generally has a longer runtime." Regarding your point that you can buy an AA battery that is rated at 2000 mAhs .......you can also find an Ultrafire BRC 18650 rechargeable that has 4000 mAh.... If you want to make a point regarding the circuitry of the light making a difference..... provide a link or at least explain what you are talking about.....with it showing that the special circuitry makes an Alkaline battery behave differently (ie. that the output of an Alkaline battery doesn't begin decreasing immediately upon using the battery thereby causing a light to immediately becoming dimmer) than it normal would in any other flash light. I provided links from experts confirming my points. Do the same......I am always willing to learn. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 3:40:12 PM EDT
[#10]
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Regarding your point that you can buy an AA battery that is rated at 2000 mAhs .......you can also find an Ultrafire BRC 18650 rechargeable that has 4000 mAh.... If you want to make a point regarding the circuitry of the light making a difference..... provide a link or at least explain what you are talking about.....with it showing that the special circuitry makes an Alkaline battery behave differently (that the output of an Alkaline battery doesn't begin decreasing immediately upon using the battery thereby causing a light to immediately becoming dimmer) than it normal would in any other flash light. UF batteries are highly over rated. there 3000mAh battery still only test out at about 2600mAh. there are plenty of battery test on CPF. the circuits are the driver of the led. they take a voltage range say 3.2-8.4v and outputs a constant 3.6v. this allows you to run the lights on a single cell such as a 18650 or even 2 cells like 18350's. the same works for AA voltage. it will take 1.2v or even 5v and output a constant voltage of 3.6v. it will run at the set voltage until the batteries hit that 3.6v and then diminish the output till the cell is dead which is the lowest input for the circuit to work. example, the 3 AAA lights you buy from walmart or costco are direct drive. that means there is NO control circuit just the pos of the batteries to the pos on the led and the same with the neg. they start out bright as as the batteries die the brightness falls off. a regulated light, like the Fenix line of lights takes 2 123's at 6v and cuts that down to their set voltage and the light will put out the max brightness until the batteries hit the min voltage and the light dies. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 3:59:43 PM EDT
[#11]
Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight?
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Posted: 2/17/2013 4:00:06 PM EDT
[#12]
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My second link from Flashlight Blogs stated that "The CR123A battery is also a better performer in terms of capacity. The CR123A battery has about 1500 mAh (double that of a AA alkaline battery), which means that the flashlight that uses it generally has a longer runtime." Regarding your point that you can buy an AA battery that is rated at 2000 mAhs .......you can also find an Ultrafire BRC 18650 rechargeable that has 4000 mAh.... If you want to make a point regarding the circuitry of the light making a difference..... provide a link or at least explain what you are talking about.....with it showing that the special circuitry makes an Alkaline battery behave differently (ie. that the output of an Alkaline battery doesn't begin decreasing immediately upon using the battery thereby causing a light to immediately becoming dimmer) than it normal would in any other flash light. I provided links from experts confirming my points. Do the same......I am always willing to learn. your blog guy is an idiot. first off, AA Alkaline batteries have a mah rating of between 1800 and 2600, NOT the 700 he is proposing. cr123a's have a max mah rating of 1500. the difference is the amount of draw you put on the batteries. this is where the driver circuit comes into play. since this "blogger" likes 4sevens lights just use them as an example. compare there single cell AA and 123 lights and look at the difference. the AA is half the voltage but the run times are NOT half, they are well over half. quark tactical QTA AA version high-109 lm, low .2lm run time max 240h min 1h. quark tactical QTLC 123a version high-205lm, low .2lm run time max 360h min 1h. they both use the same LED module. so according you your blogger that shouldnt happen. that is want a driver circuit does. on price point alone the AA version is the better deal. not counting you can find AA batteries everywhere unlike the 123a's. there are brighter AA lights out there as well. of course there are also brighter 123a lights as well. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 4:02:07 PM EDT
[#13]
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Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight? it varies by maker but pretty much any single/double cell is going to be regulated. any 3 cell light is pretty much going to be direct drive. you can also find the parts to build your own lights at deal extreme. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:28:43 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I bought one of those surefire knock off bodies that take two of the batteries used in laptop battery packs and got a high output incandescent bulb for it. You can only run it for a few minutes at a time but it will char paper from an inch away. A cool thing to do with it is point it at your hand and turn it on for a second until your hand burns a little then when you turn it off you touch the glass bezel it's still cold. I mount it on my AR for HD because it will blind the shit out of anyone. It's okay I understand your need to joke around. lol Also you could use that light you made to give people tans on a lower setting and make some dough. You just gave me a bad idea. Wait for someone to pass out drunk at a party then use the light to give little round sunburns that look like rashes. Hey they should know the rules of drinking or don't drink at all.  |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:32:01 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What you said about the CR 123 type lights not dying till the end have me confused, cause the Sufire Fury I have dims after 1 hour then stays on for another hour then dies.You can not go wrong with Fenix. What type of a battery do you want to use? AAA, AA, CR123 CR 123 will give you the best battery life and the best performance (It doesn't go dimmer as the battery runs down ...it stays bright right up to the end and then flickers before dying) but they are a bit more expensive. Then pick your lumens. Go a minimum of 200 with a two or three way dimming option on the light. You do not need full power all the time and at the lowest power the batteries can last a long time. The type of battery that you have in your flashlight is one of the most important factors to consider for many different reasons. If your life may be dependent on whether or not your flash light works then you should strongly consider a flashlight that uses lithium CR123 batteries. The life of one of these batteries in a high lumen flashlight may be double that of a standard alkaline AA battery. A CR123 Lithium will also provide virtually full power/lumen right up to the point that the battery dies .......versus an Alkaline AA becoming dimmer and dimmer over the last so many hours that the battery dies. The only downside to CR123 batteries is that they are not available for sell everywhere that other batteries are sold......but you should buy your batteries over the net anyway to get your best price. UM, wat? totally not the case. you should really do more reading before posting old info. how the the light works depends on the circuitry inside it. some lights are "direct drive" and NO MATTER which type cell it uses it will diminish in brightness as the batteries get weaker. then there are "regulated circuits" these lights will keep a constant level of brightness until the battery hits the lowest voltage the circuitry is designed to work at. 123A's provide no more or less light in a regulated light than a AA battery. OP if you really want light output look into 18650 powered lights. be warned, in order to get higher output and longer battery life you will have to have a flashlight that is pretty big. high output comes with the cost of shorter run times. the key is to find where they equal out in light output, size, and battery life. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?233961-Quick-CR123A-and-AA-Battery-Shoot-out-Comparison Compare the light output rates vs time for lithium compared to alkaline. Using the T15 (AA), The Alkaline begin to decrease in light output immediately. The Lithium AAs haves a flat line output for about the first 120 minutes. Now given the fact that the CR123 has about double the capacity that an Alkaline AA has...... http://www.flashlight-blog.com/2010/11/cr123a-or-aa.html A Cr123 lithium battery flashlight is a much better choice. 123A's are not double that of a AA battery. i use eneloops which are rated at 2000mAh's, that is 500 MORE mAh's than a 123A. 123A's are double the voltage, 3v vs 1.5(1.2 average for rechargeables). again, it will all depend on the circuity in the light. My second link from Flashlight Blogs stated that "The CR123A battery is also a better performer in terms of capacity. The CR123A battery has about 1500 mAh (double that of a AA alkaline battery), which means that the flashlight that uses it generally has a longer runtime." Regarding your point that you can buy an AA battery that is rated at 2000 mAhs .......you can also find an Ultrafire BRC 18650 rechargeable that has 4000 mAh.... If you want to make a point regarding the circuitry of the light making a difference..... provide a link or at least explain what you are talking about.....with it showing that the special circuitry makes an Alkaline battery behave differently (ie. that the output of an Alkaline battery doesn't begin decreasing immediately upon using the battery thereby causing a light to immediately becoming dimmer) than it normal would in any other flash light. I provided links from experts confirming my points. Do the same......I am always willing to learn. Great info from both 1bigdog and mylth1 |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:32:44 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I have a battery LanternQuoted: (Camping + desert) * needing a light = Kerosene lantern. Yup. I got a Dietz "Jupiter" lantern from Lehman's and I love it! A good lantern is definitely worth having. I'll buy a couple more for my SHTF stash. Well if that 230 lumen lantern lasts 40-90hrs on 3 D cell batteries, my 6 D cell 200 lumen should easily last 100+ hrs 25 bucks an't bad deal either. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:33:48 PM EDT
[#17]
I have a few of the Trustfire/Ultrafire lights off amazon. Very cheap, decent, bright, and rechargeable batteries.
No it's not THE flashlight for the zombie apocalypse but they are great for my needs. Especially if you hate buying batteries.
ETA : As mentioned before LED/fluorescent lanterns are awesome. I do quite a bit of bank fishing at night and they are cheap and easy to deal with. Long run time and very handy in a power outage if you keep em charged up too. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:34:34 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted: Quoted: Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight? it varies by maker but pretty much any single/double cell is going to be regulated. any 3 cell light is pretty much going to be direct drive. you can also find the parts to build your own lights at deal extreme. For those of us who do not want to build our own flashlights and just want to buy one of the 1000s that are for sale....how can we tell by looking at the flashlight's description if it has this special circuitry you talk about? |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:43:38 PM EDT
[#19]
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Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight? it varies by maker but pretty much any single/double cell is going to be regulated. any 3 cell light is pretty much going to be direct drive. you can also find the parts to build your own lights at deal extreme. For those of us who do not want to build our own flashlights and just want to buy one of the 1000s that are for sale....how can we tell by looking at the flashlight's description if it has this special circuitry you talk about? They usually say if they are regulated. Most 3AAA lights are not. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:50:32 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight? it varies by maker but pretty much any single/double cell is going to be regulated. any 3 cell light is pretty much going to be direct drive. you can also find the parts to build your own lights at deal extreme. For those of us who do not want to build our own flashlights and just want to buy one of the 1000s that are for sale....how can we tell by looking at the flashlight's description if it has this special circuitry you talk about? I believe Fenix flashlights are regulated, but need to read more into it. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 6:00:10 PM EDT
[#21]
I have a few Surefire replicas (& a few bored out real ones); I like them & have one in every car, bedroom, and ATV.
Get a Solarforce L2 18650 Flashlight @ about $15 on eBay. You will need two C123 batteries (good), or a rechargeable 18650 (better), and a Cree 300 lumens LED bulb for $10. You are in for around $30 and have a darn reliable, dependable, long burning, and bright light. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 9:14:49 PM EDT
[#22]
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My latest choice is an MT26 from Nitecore. I wanted something with good throw and spill that could use CR123A primaries or 18650 rechargeables. I have been very impressed so far after using the light for ~3 months. I agree - Nitecore make great tactical lights as does Fenix. I just purchased an MT26 for $55 on Fleabay which puts out 800 lumens - great light but I still use my Fenix TK11's and TK15's on my guns. |
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Posted: 2/17/2013 9:55:26 PM EDT
[#23]
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Posted: 2/17/2013 10:38:12 PM EDT
[#24]
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Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight? it varies by maker but pretty much any single/double cell is going to be regulated. any 3 cell light is pretty much going to be direct drive. you can also find the parts to build your own lights at deal extreme. For those of us who do not want to build our own flashlights and just want to buy one of the 1000s that are for sale....how can we tell by looking at the flashlight's description if it has this special circuitry you talk about? building your own light isnt that hard. all you need is a host, a LED module, and a battery with charger. make sure your host is a P60 host and the combination of LED's and outputs are almost limitless. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 3:54:20 AM EDT
[#25]
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I have a battery LanternQuoted:
(Camping + desert) * needing a light = Kerosene lantern. Yup. I got a Dietz "Jupiter" lantern from Lehman's and I love it! A good lantern is definitely worth having. I'll buy a couple more for my SHTF stash. i have one of those. they work but are MUCH smaller and lower power than i expected. in my living room you get enough light to not trip over the furniture but that is a bout it. would do fine in a small tent or for reading but not much more IMHO. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:13:23 AM EDT
[#26]
Jetbeam BC40 with two 18650 rechargeables. Will also run on 4 123s. 800/100 switchable with click tailcap.
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:17:31 AM EDT
[#27]
You know, reading through this thread, small lights have gone from retarded bright to insane bright in only a few months.
My 205 Lumen EDC fenix seems --- inadequate
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:19:59 AM EDT
[#28]
Go on a day with even half a moon and the desert is bright as fuck. Full moon? You'll be wanting curtains.
My E2DL always worked for me but out there I'd always go by moonlight/starlight. It's amazing what you can see with no cloud cover. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:28:37 AM EDT
[#29]
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You know, reading through this thread, small lights have gone from stupid bright to insane bright in only a few months. My 205 Lumen EDC fenix seems --- inadequate yeah the ultrafire I have is actually too bright on the high settings for working on something up close. it does throw a useable beam out 100 yards or so, but the lower settings are needed for close works |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:30:19 AM EDT
[#30]
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You said high lumen, how bout 2200 for 90 minutes or 700 for 9 hours? http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr45/_matt_arf/image_zpse0735b10.jpg http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr45/_matt_arf/image_zpsa07f7616.jpg Is that the SR22? Id like to stay under 300 bucks, but that is a nice flashlight with a wide spill. SR90. No longer available, here are the SR series reviewed. Beastly lights, and I really like the fact that I can cycle them quickly without concern unlike my HID lights |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:40:43 AM EDT
[#31]
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What you said about the CR 123 type lights not dying till the end have me confused, cause the Sufire Fury I have dims after 1 hour then stays on for another hour then dies.
You can not go wrong with Fenix. What type of a battery do you want to use? AAA, AA, CR123 CR 123 will give you the best battery life and the best performance (It doesn't go dimmer as the battery runs down ...it stays bright right up to the end and then flickers before dying) but they are a bit more expensive. Then pick your lumens. Go a minimum of 200 with a two or three way dimming option on the light. You do not need full power all the time and at the lowest power the batteries can last a long time. The type of battery that you have in your flashlight is one of the most important factors to consider for many different reasons. If your life may be dependent on whether or not your flash light works then you should strongly consider a flashlight that uses lithium CR123 batteries. The life of one of these batteries in a high lumen flashlight may be double that of a standard alkaline AA battery. A CR123 Lithium will also provide virtually full power/lumen right up to the point that the battery dies .......versus an Alkaline AA becoming dimmer and dimmer over the last so many hours that the battery dies. The only downside to CR123 batteries is that they are not available for sell everywhere that other batteries are sold......but you should buy your batteries over the net anyway to get your best price. UM, wat? totally not the case. you should really do more reading before posting old info. how the the light works depends on the circuitry inside it. some lights are "direct drive" and NO MATTER which type cell it uses it will diminish in brightness as the batteries get weaker. then there are "regulated circuits" these lights will keep a constant level of brightness until the battery hits the lowest voltage the circuitry is designed to work at. 123A's provide no more or less light in a regulated light than a AA battery. OP if you really want light output look into 18650 powered lights. be warned, in order to get higher output and longer battery life you will have to have a flashlight that is pretty big. high output comes with the cost of shorter run times. the key is to find where they equal out in light output, size, and battery life. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?233961-Quick-CR123A-and-AA-Battery-Shoot-out-Comparison Compare the light output rates vs time for lithium compared to alkaline. Using the T15 (AA), The Alkaline begin to decrease in light output immediately. The Lithium AAs haves a flat line output for about the first 120 minutes. Now given the fact that the CR123 has about double the capacity that an Alkaline AA has...... http://www.flashlight-blog.com/2010/11/cr123a-or-aa.html A Cr123 lithium battery flashlight is a much better choice. Your example is poor The t15 light is an AA sized light, but built to take up to 4.2v lithium rechargeable batteries. Due to that, and the need to make a cost effective light, a buck/boost circuit that would have produced a flat runtime on alkaline cells would have been foolish, given its intended market. Simply put, that light was never designed to run on alkaline batteries in an efficient manner. Lithium batteries do have a higher power density vs alkaline cells, HOWEVER, your misunderstanding of how regulation works and is implemented in flashlights is dead wrong. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:45:15 AM EDT
[#32]
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Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight? it varies by maker but pretty much any single/double cell is going to be regulated. any 3 cell light is pretty much going to be direct drive. you can also find the parts to build your own lights at deal extreme. For those of us who do not want to build our own flashlights and just want to buy one of the 1000s that are for sale....how can we tell by looking at the flashlight's description if it has this special circuitry you talk about? building your own light isnt that hard. all you need is a host, a LED module, and a battery with charger. make sure your host is a P60 host and the combination of LED's and outputs are almost limitless. That could still get him an unregulated light because there are p60 modules that are unregulated |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 4:48:56 AM EDT
[#33]
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Does this circuitry have a name to look for when you buy a flashlight? it varies by maker but pretty much any single/double cell is going to be regulated. any 3 cell light is pretty much going to be direct drive. you can also find the parts to build your own lights at deal extreme. For those of us who do not want to build our own flashlights and just want to buy one of the 1000s that are for sale....how can we tell by looking at the flashlight's description if it has this special circuitry you talk about? You need to find some graphs to truly know. And by someone who is a trusted source. The review section of CPF is a very good source Here is an example, which will also show you that alkaline batteries can be regulated, however, they do not have the power capabilities of nimh or lithium batteries. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:04:29 AM EDT
[#34]
I just got one of these and it is the best thrower I have ever used.
http://www.thrunite-store.com/flashlights/tnseries-light/thrower-king-tn31-cree-xm-l2-u2-led-flashlight-1376lumen.html 1376 lumens. Right now they are having a sale on it for $165 through their direct site.($220 on batteryjunction) I can shine it on my neighbors house over a half mile away and I can see almost every detail of their house. Or if you want a flood light, go with the TN30 (3000 lumens) I put 3 of these batteries in it, and it runs very bright for a very long time. http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-chargers/protected-3100mah-18650-li-ion-battery-cell-is-panasonic-ncr18650a-protection-ic-made-in-japan-top-button |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:23:05 AM EDT
[#35]
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trustfire Cree c8 1000 lumen, best $20 you'll ever spend in flashlights. thank me later lol 20 bucks. hhaha I'll check it out. I lost my Streamlight flashlight so I just ordered one of these and a 4 pack of rechargeable batteries for $30 shipped. These look like a helluva deal. I just ordered 2 of them. http://www.amazon.com/TrustFire-C8-T6-5-Mode-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005VCJNYG |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:34:02 AM EDT
[#36]
I'd get the 900 lumen surefire.
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:41:57 AM EDT
[#37]
I have a bunch of decent flashlights. If you want 100 lumens I recommend picking up a couple of Rayovac Indestructible flashlights. They are dual mode 100/18 lumen lights that run on AA batteries. You purchase them at Home Depot and they retail for $14.99.
$14.99 Rayovac flashlight Add a couple pairs of AA Eneloop batteries and you have a nice package for a very small investment. Yes, there are brighter flashlights out there, but this one will fit the bill just fine for your stated requirements. jonblack |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:44:53 AM EDT
[#38]
how good are these nitecore lights. the spec sheets look REALLY good on them. quality? |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:48:44 AM EDT
[#39]
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You said high lumen, how bout 2200 for 90 minutes or 700 for 9 hours? http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr45/_matt_arf/image_zpse0735b10.jpg http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr45/_matt_arf/image_zpsa07f7616.jpg This is the light to get. Amazon sells them for $400. Think handheld aircraft landing light. http://www.amazon.com/Olight-SR95-Output-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B008BT668M/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1361198880&sr=1-2&keywords=olight+flashlight |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:48:49 AM EDT
[#40]
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how good are these nitecore lights. the spec sheets look REALLY good on them. quality? I just got a Nitecore EA4 a few weeks ago. It is fucking insane. Get one. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 5:50:41 AM EDT
[#41]
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how good are these nitecore lights. the spec sheets look REALLY good on them. quality? I bought a nitecore a few months ago (3LED version) and it worked for about 10 minutes before 2 of the bulbs went out. Maybe I just got a bad one, but for a $250+ flashlight, I would expect better quality out of the box. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 6:08:15 AM EDT
[#42]
Quoted: Quoted: how good are these nitecore lights. the spec sheets look REALLY good on them. quality? I bought a nitecore a few months ago (3LED version) and it worked for about 10 minutes before 2 of the bulbs went out. Maybe I just got a bad one, but for a $250+ flashlight, I would expect better quality out of the box. Damn that sucks.. Looks like the Fenix PD32 ultimate would be a better choice.
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Posted: 2/18/2013 6:10:17 AM EDT
[#43]
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Posted: 2/18/2013 6:37:39 AM EDT
[#44]
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Ultrafire wf-502b. Advertised as 1000 lumens. Comes with 2 18650 batts and a charger. I get 28 mins of run time on high, and its waterproof, shock resistant and has 5 modes. Dual springs for weapon mounting. Switch leaves a bit to be desired, no momentary on. Good light, and they are on ebay for @ $13. http://cloud2.lbox.me/images/384x384/201205/ultrafire-wf-502b-flashlight-with-cree-t6-led_xhqgjl1337922935223.jpg Not to rain on your parade, but the 502 isn't waterproof. It has some o-rings where it comes apart, but don't submerge it or you'll be disappointed. I'd call it water resistant. Also, the lumens of output are wildly overstated, especially by Chinese and ebay sellers. There is no single-emitter flashlight out there that produces 1000 lumens. The XM-L is the brightest thing going right now, and you'll do well to get a true 500 l;umens OTF (out the front). The lumens rating is good only for comparison purposes. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 6:45:47 AM EDT
[#45]
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how good are these nitecore lights. the spec sheets look REALLY good on them. quality? Simply awesome! |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 6:48:46 AM EDT
[#46]
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how good are these nitecore lights. the spec sheets look REALLY good on them. quality? I bought a nitecore a few months ago (3LED version) and it worked for about 10 minutes before 2 of the bulbs went out. Maybe I just got a bad one, but for a $250+ flashlight, I would expect better quality out of the box. Send it back. They makes some incredible lights. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 6:49:53 AM EDT
[#47]
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Most of the quality lights recommended in this thread are ANSI rated so the numbers they quote are spot on. Klarus, Fenix, Foursevens, Jetbeam, and Nitecore are all ANSI rated. I have an NIST traceable light meter. Light intensity is subject to inverse square law. Where is the light sensor positioned to get the Lumen rating? I would like to measure some of these myself. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 6:58:34 AM EDT
[#48]
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Most of the quality lights recommended in this thread are ANSI rated so the numbers they quote are spot on. Klarus, Fenix, Foursevens, Jetbeam, and Nitecore are all ANSI rated. I have an NIST traceable light meter. Light intensity is subject to inverse square law. Where is the light sensor positioned to get the Lumen ratin I would like to measure some of these myself. You will need to google the ANSI testing standards. It's government testing standards. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 7:00:05 AM EDT
[#49]
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how good are these nitecore lights. the spec sheets look REALLY good on them. quality? I bought a nitecore a few months ago (3LED version) and it worked for about 10 minutes before 2 of the bulbs went out. Maybe I just got a bad one, but for a $250+ flashlight, I would expect better quality out of the box. Send it back. They makes some incredible lights. I did send it back and got a full refund. I then tried the Thrunite TN30. It was brighter then the Nitecore and cost about half as much. The build quality is excellent. They have a direct sales store with prices much cheaper then other sites. There are some sites that review flashlights, and the Thrunite was very close to the Olight SR95 (screenshots included) for less then half the cost. I liked the TN30 so much, I got a TN31 as well. (thrower) On battery junction, the price for the thrunites are close to the nitecores, but through the direct sales site, I got both lights for less then the cost of the one nitecore. The quality and heft of both brands were very comparable, but the thrunite didn't die after 10 minutes. |
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Posted: 2/18/2013 7:03:15 AM EDT
[#50]
Let's get one thing straight - the lumens output these flashlight makers and sellers publish is NOT what you're going to get. Period.
They know big numbers sell, so they publish the manufacturer's numbers (usually Cree), but you have to understand Cree obtains those numbers under lab conditions and from a bare emitter. By the time you enclose the emitter in a flashlight head, attach a reflector, then direct the light through a lens, the output is much reduced. It just stands to reason that the light captured in a dome used to measure output is going to be more than the light directed into a narrow cone (the reflector) and pushed out through a plastic or glass lens, and even the reflective surface of that cone can't make up for the light lost. And battery type and circuitry is also going to affect "real" output, since most emitters run in a range of voltages and amperages. Lumen ratings are okay for comparison purposes, but one guy's flashlight with a given emitter is going put out different lumens from another guy's flashlight with the same emitter, due to design differences. |
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