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Link Posted: 1/29/2018 12:04:58 AM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:
lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
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I'm proud to say my only (non altitude) descent that went poorly was a close call - crampon points ripped all the way through clothing & gaiters but just scratched the skin. That day we had summitted a 4000 footer in New Hampshire in February, while we were on the summit, a storm came in. You could put your foot in the snow, take it out & watch it till with snow almost instantly. Icicles in beard, snow all along one side. Wind howling so you couldn't shout & be heard.I

I miss it.
lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
Totally the same thing.  Totally.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 12:05:13 AM EDT
[#2]
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Fuck Jon Krakauer.
His portrayal of some of the guides has been disputed. Some also believe him to be a coward based on his unwillingness (or inability) to join an impromptu rescue attempt during the 96 disaster. From what I’ve read he probably saved his own life by staying in his tent and more than likely saved the lives of some of the others who petitioned him to go out with them. He would’ve been a liability during any rescue.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 12:55:50 AM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
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Quoted:
Quoted:

I'm proud to say my only (non altitude) descent that went poorly was a close call - crampon points ripped all the way through clothing & gaiters but just scratched the skin. That day we had summitted a 4000 footer in New Hampshire in February, while we were on the summit, a storm came in. You could put your foot in the snow, take it out & watch it till with snow almost instantly. Icicles in beard, snow all along one side. Wind howling so you couldn't shout & be heard.I

I miss it.
lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
The tallest peak in Kansas ...



Meanwhile in New Hampshire ...

Link Posted: 1/29/2018 12:56:32 AM EDT
[#4]
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Holy shit, Meru was good. Arfcom wins again.
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Did you just watch it based on this thread?
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 1:40:40 AM EDT
[#5]
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Far more people die on interstate highways every year.
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Shall we compare the number of trips taken on interstates vs attempted accents on Everest?  It makes for two very different numerators.

On topic, I am not a climber by any stretch, but I could see were going down hill was harder than going up.  Just slipping and falling gets much worse.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 1:50:35 AM EDT
[#6]
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What most people don't understand about Krakauer is that he's a hell of a climber in his own right.  None of this conveys in his writing, even when he's writing about climbing, to an audience of climbers.

Krakauer probably despised Pitman with every ounce of his being.

Pitman was a competent climber, but she was very structured in her climbing - for all of her major climbs, she used guide services, and for damn good reason.  She wasn't "a real climber".  She wasn't a real climber because she didn't pay her dues as a climbing bumb.  Sitting around a campfire it would be obvious that she didn't stick her neck out on her own - and why would she?  She didn't have time for that.  She had a work schedule and life completely alien to most in the climbing community.  She was competent, but she certainly wasn't a leader, not around those campfires.

Basecamps are an amazing leadership crucible.  4 million years of human evolution playing into the guy feelings of everyone trying to size up everyone else.  Who's going to team up with whom?  Who's going to dare follow so and so?  Who's on a fools errand?  It's some pretty intangible stuff.  It's a book in of itself.

Krakauer was an outstanding climber - someone other climbers would have written about if he hadn't been the one writing about them.  Krakauer would most likely be described as a reckless climber by most outsiders.

Krakauer pushed his limits by himself.  Pitman pushed her limits in the presence of professional guides.

That Krakauer was being guided up Everest, well, that probably burned him up.  Not being able to tackle the mountain on his own merits went against ever grain of his own being.  It wasn't who he was as a climber, but it was how he paid the bills.

He writes from his perspective.  Everyone does.
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Well said.

It usually does not take long sitting around talking to a person to find out if the have truly put in their time on the mountain.  There are climbers with money behind them and climbers with experence.  Both may get to the top but when shit goes sidways you will see the difference.

Alex Lowe was a cool dude and one of the best climbers in the world if not the best.  I have a feeling Sandy paid him a lot of money for his help to do the Kangshung Face trip.   Lowe was old school and climb by the old mountain code.  He would stop everything to help in a rescue.  I always thought it was interesting that Lowe helped her.  It also would have been interesting to be a fly on the wall when he gave the news to pittmen that the expedition was turning around.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:46:18 AM EDT
[#7]
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Did you just watch it based on this thread?
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Yes. Didn't know been know it's a thing. A couple of years ago read everything I could find on Everest, K2, and the '96 disaster.

None of it hit home until I watched Brashears Imax film. Very, very, emotional.

I will never do it, but it really interests me. Any human feat which pushes boundaries is interesting. Big wall climbing at 20k is pushing about as far as you can go.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 1:58:12 PM EDT
[#8]
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Clipping jumars into pre-placed fixed ropes and breathing out of a SCUBA tank is not mountain climbing.

In reality, to the serious alpinist, pre-placed ropes are cheating and O2 bottles are much too heavy to be considered practical for the speeds necessary to move in the mountains safely.

For a more realistic portrayal of what is actually real alpine climbing, check out Mark Twight's books.  He's a hard core badass.

Those fools on Everest are just tourists w/ SCUBA tanks, they are not to be confused with real alpine climbers.  I just thought I should clarify.
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Do you do many high altitude climbs yourself?
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 2:08:28 PM EDT
[#9]
I don't understand the appeal of Everest at all.  Thousands of people have done it so while it is hard to do and dangerous, you aren't exactly blazing new territory.

What would be more bad-ass is to pick a random mountain in the background of a picture of Everest and go climb that!  
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 2:14:00 PM EDT
[#10]
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You think K2 climbers are crazy, check out Annapurna.
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You think Annapurna climbers are crazy, check out Nanga Parbat.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 2:15:42 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:

What most people don't understand about Krakauer is that he's a hell of a climber in his own right.  None of this conveys in his writing, even when he's writing about climbing, to an audience of climbers.

Krakauer probably despised Pitman with every ounce of his being.

Pitman was a competent climber, but she was very structured in her climbing - for all of her major climbs, she used guide services, and for damn good reason.  She wasn't "a real climber".  She wasn't a real climber because she didn't pay her dues as a climbing bumb.  Sitting around a campfire it would be obvious that she didn't stick her neck out on her own - and why would she?  She didn't have time for that.  She had a work schedule and life completely alien to most in the climbing community.  She was competent, but she certainly wasn't a leader, not around those campfires.

Basecamps are an amazing leadership crucible.  4 million years of human evolution playing into the guy feelings of everyone trying to size up everyone else.  Who's going to team up with whom?  Who's going to dare follow so and so?  Who's on a fools errand?  It's some pretty intangible stuff.  It's a book in of itself.

Krakauer was an outstanding climber - someone other climbers would have written about if he hadn't been the one writing about them.  Krakauer would most likely be described as a reckless climber by most outsiders.

Krakauer pushed his limits by himself.  Pitman pushed her limits in the presence of professional guides.

That Krakauer was being guided up Everest, well, that probably burned him up.  Not being able to tackle the mountain on his own merits went against ever grain of his own being.  It wasn't who he was as a climber, but it was how he paid the bills.

He writes from his perspective.  Everyone does.
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Krakaeur says now that he wishes he never climbed Everest.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 2:19:59 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
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Quoted:

I'm proud to say my only (non altitude) descent that went poorly was a close call - crampon points ripped all the way through clothing & gaiters but just scratched the skin. That day we had summitted a 4000 footer in New Hampshire in February, while we were on the summit, a storm came in. You could put your foot in the snow, take it out & watch it till with snow almost instantly. Icicles in beard, snow all along one side. Wind howling so you couldn't shout & be heard.I

I miss it.
lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
Do those fields in Kansas have a tundra climate and hold the world record for wind speeds outside of a tropical cyclone (231 mph)? The White Mountains are no joke.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 2:26:43 PM EDT
[#13]
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You think Annapurna climbers are crazy, check out Nanga Parbat.
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https://matadornetwork.com/trips/11-most-dangerous-mountains-in-the-world-for-climbers/
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 2:38:12 PM EDT
[#14]
I wanna see Everest one day...

Out the window of a Gulfstream 5, making a few slow passes, while I'm drinking beer.

That's as close as I wanna be
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 2:50:53 PM EDT
[#15]
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Krakaeur says now that he wishes he never climbed Everest.
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Everest wasn't his thing.  It was just a way to pay the bills.  I have no idea what he would have chosen if Outside had asked him to pick a mountain or wall of his own choosing.  Nameless Tower, maybe?  Perhaps one of the Gasherbrums?  Fitzroy?  Who knows?
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 5:15:48 PM EDT
[#16]
Helicopter Pilot Can’t Rescue Climber in Time | Everest Rescue
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 6:43:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Watching the true story about the 96 tragedy it's hard to believe people put themselves in those kind of environments to say " I went where many haven't. "

The guy from TX that survived lost his nose and both hands. Hell of a price to pay to come back home
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if you are not in love with Mountains and with the altitude you can't understand..it's an addiction
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 6:44:25 PM EDT
[#19]
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Fair enough.  We'll have address Jon Krakauer as a hack across his whole
body of work in another thread.
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Quoted:

Into Thin Air, a year after it was first published.

The bag at the far right of the photo?  Here's that bag about 8 days later ....

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/climbing_027Cz-434566.jpg
Fair enough.  We'll have address Jon Krakauer as a hack across his whole
body of work in another thread.
He was sent on the climb as a journalist for some magazine. The book developed from that.

Generally I don't expect great writing from magazine articles.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 6:46:41 PM EDT
[#20]
K2 is far more difficult....didn’t the first guy to climb Everest do it alone, with no oxygen?
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 6:50:19 PM EDT
[#21]
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lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
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Quoted:

I'm proud to say my only (non altitude) descent that went poorly was a close call - crampon points ripped all the way through clothing & gaiters but just scratched the skin. That day we had summitted a 4000 footer in New Hampshire in February, while we were on the summit, a storm came in. You could put your foot in the snow, take it out & watch it till with snow almost instantly. Icicles in beard, snow all along one side. Wind howling so you couldn't shout & be heard.I

I miss it.
lol

There are fields in Kansas at 4000ft.
It's about the starting elevation.
Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK is under 3800' tall. But your climb starts about 25'.
Most 4000' in New Hampshire start below 1000. Mt. Washington is the tallest, features snowfall in every month of the year plus has had winds of over 200 mph. Try that in your fields!


Edit to correct & add...
Attachment Attached File

Ben Nevis
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 6:51:15 PM EDT
[#22]
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didn’t the first guy to climb Everest do it alone, with no oxygen?
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No, and no.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 6:52:08 PM EDT
[#23]
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K2 is far more difficult....didn’t the first guy to climb Everest do it alone, with no oxygen?
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the first to Ascend everest without O2 was an italian, a totally crazy giù named Reynold messner. Check out on wikipedia, he did all the fourtheenn
8000's and in most cases through New ascension ways
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:03:42 PM EDT
[#24]
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the first to Ascend everest without O2 was an italian, a totally crazy giù named Reynold messner. Check out on wikipedia, he did all the fourtheenn
8000's and in most cases through New ascension ways
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he is also the first man wich ascended mount everest alone and He has a lot of world records. He is currently considered the most complete alpinist in the world
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:04:32 PM EDT
[#25]
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He was sent on the climb as a journalist for some magazine. The book developed from that.

Generally I don't expect great writing from magazine articles.
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The book that launched his career was a collection of pieces he'd written for magazines.  It's a fantastic book. Eiger Dreams.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:11:04 PM EDT
[#26]
Then there's super humans...

Göran Kropp.  He rode his bike to Everest (nearly 7,000 miles from Sweden), lugged his own gear to base camp, climbed the mountain solo and biked home. He made a solo ascent of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support in May 1996, for which he traveled by bicycle alone from Sweden.

Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:15:33 PM EDT
[#27]
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Because you disagree with something he wrote?
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Quoted:
Read "Into Thin Air"
Fuck Jon Krakauer.
Because you disagree with something he wrote?
He has a very strong political bias.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:16:24 PM EDT
[#28]
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He has a very strong political bias.  
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Read "Into Thin Air"
Fuck Jon Krakauer.
Because you disagree with something he wrote?
He has a very strong political bias.  
Don't we all?
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:16:41 PM EDT
[#29]
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if you are not in love with Mountains and with the altitude you can't understand..it's an addiction
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Quoted:
Watching the true story about the 96 tragedy it's hard to believe people put themselves in those kind of environments to say " I went where many haven't. "

The guy from TX that survived lost his nose and both hands. Hell of a price to pay to come back home
if you are not in love with Mountains and with the altitude you can't understand..it's an addiction
As a hiker/backpacker, that’s a great way to put it from my perspective. I’ve only been to around 12,600’ though. Planning to hit some 13ers this summer. I’ll never summit Everest, but I understand the desire.

Yeah, the Whites don’t fuck around. There’s a reason I spent two nights in the dungeon at Lake of the Clouds. It was 90+mph winds and below freezing temps. The rhyme ice was measured in feet when I summited Washington. That was in August. It all melted within hours of sunrise though. The Presidentials are a special place for sure.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:19:03 PM EDT
[#30]
If I knew I'd make it to the top OK, but would probably die a clean death on the way down ..... I'd go for sure.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:26:22 PM EDT
[#31]
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As a hiker/backpacker, that’s a great way to put it from my perspective. I’ve only been to around 12,600’ though. Planning to hit some 13ers this summer. I’ll never summit Everest, but I understand the desire.

Yeah, the Whites don’t fuck around. There’s a reason I spent two nights in the dungeon at Lake of the Clouds. It was 90+mph winds and below freezing temps. The rhyme ice was measured in feet when I summited Washington. That was in August. It all melted within hours of sunrise though. The Presidentials are a special place for sure.
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i've been at -42 Celsius degrees on monte bianco a couple years ago..my spitting was freezing before touching the ground and my father's beard war completely frozen! that was one of the many times i climbed in alps but i had never found such a cold temperature..
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:33:54 PM EDT
[#32]
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Then there's super humans...

Göran Kropp.  He rode his bike to Everest (nearly 7,000 miles from Sweden), lugged his own gear to base camp, climbed the mountain solo and biked home. He made a solo ascent of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support in May 1996, for which he traveled by bicycle alone from Sweden.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/04/Goran_95.gif
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Yep

This is the guy I immediately thought of when I saw the thread title
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 7:36:33 PM EDT
[#33]
Fascinating thread.
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 8:47:13 PM EDT
[#34]
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i've been at -42 Celsius degrees on monte bianco a couple years ago..my spitting was freezing before touching the ground and my father's beard war completely frozen! that was one of the many times i climbed in alps but i had never found such a cold temperature..
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I used to live in Canada where it was -40 in the town.  We still went to school.

And in case no one believes that:

http://www.nugget.ca/2014/01/03/all-time-low-still-stands---barely
Link Posted: 1/29/2018 8:56:09 PM EDT
[#35]
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I used to live in Canada where it was -40 in the town.  We still went to school.

And in case no one believes that:

http://www.nugget.ca/2014/01/03/all-time-low-still-stands---barely
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i've been at -42 Celsius degrees on monte bianco a couple years ago..my spitting was freezing before touching the ground and my father's beard war completely frozen! that was one of the many times i climbed in alps but i had never found such a cold temperature..
I used to live in Canada where it was -40 in the town.  We still went to school.

And in case no one believes that:

http://www.nugget.ca/2014/01/03/all-time-low-still-stands---barely
But, the descent from Monte Bianco to anywhere hospitable to human life is a tad more involved than a walk to the bus stop.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 10:18:21 AM EDT
[#36]
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Did you just watch it based on this thread?
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Just watched Meru last night (based on this thread). Unbelievable, I had not heard of it before. A question, when one is stranded on a porta ledge for four days how does one answer the call of nature?
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 10:37:36 AM EDT
[#37]
I don't know how many people have attempted each, so this is nothing more than interesting factoid.

But, over 5 times as many people have summited Everest as have completed the Iditarod. 4000 vs 731

Although, I don't know how many have died trying the Iditarod.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 10:48:16 AM EDT
[#38]
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Just watched Meru last night (based on this thread). Unbelievable, I had not heard of it before. A question, when one is stranded on a porta ledge for four days how does one answer the call of nature?
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A small paper bag makes things much easier.  Tear the corners part way down, fold the sides down a bit.  When done, put the toilet paper in there, and fold up the bag.  From there, two options are available: 1) in remote areas that see little traffic, jettison the bag, making sure it clears the route; 2) put in in the PVC waste tube that's typically hanging from the bottom of one of the haul bags.

Even in remote areas, waste management is a huge issue.  First, you just don't want others traipsing through your mess.  Second, you may have to reverse the very route you just ascended - some steep climbs have no walk-off, and the surest way down is what you just came up.  Finally, you have to consider what is going to happen if a team member gets sick.  Illness can ruin a summit bid, an entire expedition, and could possibly prove fatal via dehydration, hypothermia, etc, if conditions are bad or remote enough.

Entertaining fact for the day:
If you are on a portaledge, the typical updraft is strong enough, that if you accidentally fumble the roll of toilet paper, but still manage to hold on to one end, that roll of toilet paper is going to fly overhead like a kite as it unrolls into the wild blue yonder.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 11:12:10 AM EDT
[#39]
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Drove a car to the top of a 14’er in Colorado last year

Enjoyed it

I’ll pass on Everest
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Mt. Evans is a nice place.  S is Pike's Peak.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 11:19:15 AM EDT
[#40]
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What most people don't understand about Krakauer is that he's a hell of a climber in his own right.  None of this conveys in his writing, even when he's writing about climbing, to an audience of climbers.

Krakauer probably despised Pitman with every ounce of his being.

Pitman was a competent climber, but she was very structured in her climbing - for all of her major climbs, she used guide services, and for damn good reason.  She wasn't "a real climber".  She wasn't a real climber because she didn't pay her dues as a climbing bumb.  Sitting around a campfire it would be obvious that she didn't stick her neck out on her own - and why would she?  She didn't have time for that.  She had a work schedule and life completely alien to most in the climbing community.  She was competent, but she certainly wasn't a leader, not around those campfires.

Basecamps are an amazing leadership crucible.  4 million years of human evolution playing into the guy feelings of everyone trying to size up everyone else.  Who's going to team up with whom?  Who's going to dare follow so and so?  Who's on a fools errand?  It's some pretty intangible stuff.  It's a book in of itself.

Krakauer was an outstanding climber - someone other climbers would have written about if he hadn't been the one writing about them.  Krakauer would most likely be described as a reckless climber by most outsiders.

Krakauer pushed his limits by himself.  Pitman pushed her limits in the presence of professional guides.

That Krakauer was being guided up Everest, well, that probably burned him up.  Not being able to tackle the mountain on his own merits went against ever grain of his own being.  It wasn't who he was as a climber, but it was how he paid the bills.

He writes from his perspective. Everyone does.
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Quoted:
Quoted:

Into Thin Air, a year after it was first published.

The bag at the far right of the photo?  Here's that bag about 8 days later ....

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/climbing_027Cz-434566.jpg
Fair enough.  We'll have address Jon Krakauer as a hack across his whole
body of work in another thread.
What most people don't understand about Krakauer is that he's a hell of a climber in his own right.  None of this conveys in his writing, even when he's writing about climbing, to an audience of climbers.

Krakauer probably despised Pitman with every ounce of his being.

Pitman was a competent climber, but she was very structured in her climbing - for all of her major climbs, she used guide services, and for damn good reason.  She wasn't "a real climber".  She wasn't a real climber because she didn't pay her dues as a climbing bumb.  Sitting around a campfire it would be obvious that she didn't stick her neck out on her own - and why would she?  She didn't have time for that.  She had a work schedule and life completely alien to most in the climbing community.  She was competent, but she certainly wasn't a leader, not around those campfires.

Basecamps are an amazing leadership crucible.  4 million years of human evolution playing into the guy feelings of everyone trying to size up everyone else.  Who's going to team up with whom?  Who's going to dare follow so and so?  Who's on a fools errand?  It's some pretty intangible stuff.  It's a book in of itself.

Krakauer was an outstanding climber - someone other climbers would have written about if he hadn't been the one writing about them.  Krakauer would most likely be described as a reckless climber by most outsiders.

Krakauer pushed his limits by himself.  Pitman pushed her limits in the presence of professional guides.

That Krakauer was being guided up Everest, well, that probably burned him up.  Not being able to tackle the mountain on his own merits went against ever grain of his own being.  It wasn't who he was as a climber, but it was how he paid the bills.

He writes from his perspective. Everyone does.
I just want to emphasize this part, because then his bias becomes evident. Why was Krakauer on a fully sponsored climb up Everest at all? Why did Outside magazine cover that massive bill? What article was Krakauer supposed to write based off that climb, what was the concept that he sold to his editor?

Based on his own words, Krakauer was only there to write a hit piece on the whole Everest commercialized climbing experience. He was going to write about how undeserving novice climbers with money were getting short roped up the mountain, about how traffic jams were occurring because too many normies with money were climbing up and taking valuable space only the deserving experienced climbers should be allowed, and mostly he was going to discuss the trash situation, about h ow these commercial expeditions were the cause of the piles of trash accumulating on the mountain. And the hippies who read Outside magazine would have LOVED this sort of article. He was going to get a whole center spread, numerous pages.

But disaster happened instead. And Krakauer got a better hit piece story to write about, one big enough not just for a magazine article (which he wrote first, because of a contract) but also enough material for his own book.

Afterwards, numerous other members of the expedition, the Russian guide, some of the client climbers, some of the sherpas started a war against Krakauer because so much of the story was his own bullshit and bias. We're actually seeing that now, the standard story of the 96 disaster, blame is firmly attached now and the justification. Essentially Krakauer's version of that day and night have become canon. But the reality is that Everest is a very dangerous mountain to climb, a shit load die every year, and that year more died than normal, but still far less than the amount that died other years, because climbing giant mountains in super cold and little oxygen isn't something people do if they like safety.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 11:19:32 AM EDT
[#41]
The fever is real and has impacts way beyond many of the heroic events/journeys.  Each year, people needlessly place their lives at serious risk doing all sorts of stuff.  Fishing the GOM is the example with which I am most familiar.  People simply lose their minds over fish.

But, the same thing happens in numerous other activities like hunting, motorcycle riding, sports cars, private airplanes, base jumping, whatever.  Highly motivated and absolutely driven people, pushing themselves beyond rational limits.

Unless and until you face one of those life and death situations of your own recreational making and live to tell about it, its difficult to understand because it is so illogical and the payoff is rarely material.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 12:05:29 PM EDT
[#42]
I’d love to do it, but realistically I’ll never come close
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 4:37:19 PM EDT
[#43]
I'm hoping to trek to the Everest base camp sometime.  If things go well, it could be this year.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 5:51:44 PM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
A small paper bag makes things much easier.  Tear the corners part way down, fold the sides down a bit.  When done, put the toilet paper in there, and fold up the bag.  From there, two options are available: 1) in remote areas that see little traffic, jettison the bag, making sure it clears the route; 2) put in in the PVC waste tube that's typically hanging from the bottom of one of the haul bags.

Even in remote areas, waste management is a huge issue.  First, you just don't want others traipsing through your mess.  Second, you may have to reverse the very route you just ascended - some steep climbs have no walk-off, and the surest way down is what you just came up.  Finally, you have to consider what is going to happen if a team member gets sick.  Illness can ruin a summit bid, an entire expedition, and could possibly prove fatal via dehydration, hypothermia, etc, if conditions are bad or remote enough.

Entertaining fact for the day:
If you are on a portaledge, the typical updraft is strong enough, that if you accidentally fumble the roll of toilet paper, but still manage to hold on to one end, that roll of toilet paper is going to fly overhead like a kite as it unrolls into the wild blue yonder.
View Quote
Just one more thing to overcome. I am trying to picture that process, three guys with little or no extra room. One needs to hold the bag, squat balance and take care of business, those three guys must be real tight. climbing seems easy.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 8:44:37 PM EDT
[#45]
Because of the discussion about Meru, the route shown in orange is the subject of the Meru documentary ...

Link Posted: 1/30/2018 8:48:09 PM EDT
[#46]
Also, for those that follow Everest, after that last big 2015 earthquake, the Hillary Step is GONE.



I'm guessing quite a few "permanent" residents of Rainbow Valley might have gotten knocked loose or covered up...
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 8:51:33 PM EDT
[#47]
If any of you have bought any North Face clothing in the past couple of years, you may remember that the product hang tag had a photo labeled Meru.

Well, that's not Meru.  That's Bhagirathi III ... across the valley from Meru.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gangotri_Group
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 8:56:20 PM EDT
[#48]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Also, for those that follow Everest, after that last big 2015 earthquake, the Hillary Step is GONE.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CidPB_SUkAA4eAx.jpg

I'm guessing quite a few "permanent" residents of Rainbow Valley might have gotten knocked loose or covered up...
View Quote
The rock structure of the Hillary Step was not changed by the earthquake.
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 9:12:09 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The rock structure of the Hillary Step was not changed by the earthquake.
View Quote
US Climbers Say Hilary Step Gone JUNE 2017

"In its previous form, the step was comprised of four large boulders and several smaller rocks stacked on top of each other. But both Madison and Jones tell Outside that the main boulder—the largest and highest rock in the feature—is gone. Both join other observers in speculating that the boulder was shaken loose during the massive earthquake that hit the region in 2015.

“The boulder formally know as the Hillary Step is gone,” Madison says. “It’s pretty obvious that the boulder fell off and has been replaced by snow. You can see some of the rocks below it that were there before, but the gigantic boulder is missing now.”

Madison, who completed his eighth summit of Everest on May 23, sent Outside before and after photos of the Hillary Step—one image from 2011 and another from 2017—that show where the boulder is missing. Dave Hahn, an experienced guide who has summited Everest 15 times (more than any non-Sherpa climber), reviewed the images at Outside’s request. “The photos show pretty conclusively that a large mass of rock is missing. I’d say that [main] boulder is absolutely gone,” he says. Hahn also noted that there are “scars” of lighter rock exposed that didn’t exist before, but he hopes to examine higher resolution photos in the future.

“The main boulder that is the actual step is completely gone. There is no question in my mind that it is gone,” says Jones, a guide for Alpine Ascents who made his fourth summit of Everest on May 27."
Link Posted: 1/30/2018 9:17:35 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Also, for those that follow Everest, after that last big 2015 earthquake, the Hillary Step is GONE.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CidPB_SUkAA4eAx.jpg

I'm guessing quite a few "permanent" residents of Rainbow Valley might have gotten knocked loose or covered up...
View Quote
A lot of people have fell coming back down off of Hillary Step. It was situated right next to a 10,000ft cliff, not something you want to lose your step on.
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