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Quoted: Why have a grease in an area not designed for grease? Here’s a good read of grease vs oil. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil My opinion, take it for what it’s worth, which is some asshole on the internet. That doesn’t make money off YouTube or have any reason to be e-famous. 1. Again, a firearm isn’t a closed system. Or semi closed system. You’re going to get a ton of contaminants in it. That’s just a function of a firearm in use. So cleaning regularly is recommended maintenance. 2. Grease, like oil, won’t stay where you want it to in an open system like a firearm. Sure, it’s more tacky. But it’s going to sling just like oil. Why/how? Well, most of the time because it’s about 60-70% oil anyways. Just a heavy oil. 3. Grease can cause fiction, instead of reducing it in the wrong application. 4. Grease comes with it’s own set of issues. Such as oil bleed off. The oil that grease is formulated with, will separate out from the grease and drop off with time. Given, higher performance greases are different. As well as different types of greases such as polyurea, PTFE, silicone and other exotics have different characteristics. But for the sake of this conversation, we’re talking about conventional greases. Specifically, a lithium based product that he is using and most use. The oil will leave the thickener. Which then inhibits the performance of the grease. Which, leads to lubrication failure. 5. Where is grease used primarily? - extreme pressure situations. King pins, U joints, bucket pins. These situations are high shock load, high pressure areas that are semi sealed in normal conditions. Also once through applications. This is to prevent wear on those points. But they have to be regularly maintained. One could argue trailer bearings, or bearing applications are high speed. But that’s why in most heavy duty / high speed applications you have oil systems. Think a light duty landscaping trailer vs a heavy duty semi trailer. Semi trailers use oil bath bearings. Light duty use grease. Which has more failures per mile traveled? Grease. 6. Also, think about these applications. They’re all one way lubricants. You purge the old out when you put the new in. Which means they’re semi sealed. The grease creates a seal on the exit end. The zerk fitting seals the grease entry point. Guns don’t have this luxury. There is no “seal” on an AR. So there is nothing to seal. Thus nothing to for the grease to seal. So back to why not use it in an AR? Why use it to begin with? If you’re using it primarily for its oil... why not use an oil? Just a higher risk of contamination build up once the oil leaves the grease. Now if you’re going to build a gun and put in an armory for 100 years like the fucking Russians? Yeah. Pack that mother fucker with grease. Actual use? Most applications... oil. Clean your gun. Save some time and mess. Way lubricants are mostly used in metal working applications. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for like 50 buck or less. Edit: There are definitely uses of grease in certain firearms. The M1 garand. The 1911. As they were designed with it in mind. You can certainly use oil on them too. Just a note. This is not a blanket statement of “grease bad. Oil good.” Use your knoggin. Think a bit about the mechanical action at hand. Both can work. Grease can certainly work in an AR. But, I propose the question of why? Even more, why bother with his mixture? For what he spent there he could just buy a semi fluid grease. Edit 2: To the topic of lithium and corrosion resistance. It’s why most marine greases are calcium based. Link to a good article again, as I’m too tired to write it out. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29658/multi-purpose-grease View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. The lithium grease corrosion discussion is new to me. I'm pretty sure the grease I've been using is probably lithium based. I think the tolerances part of the conversation is something one can eyeball to an extent. A Dan Wesson, Nighthawk, or a tighter space like where a bolt sits in a BCG is obviously not where you'd want a grease. But much looser areas? Why not? "Way oil" sounds interesting, but they don't seem to sell it anywhere consumer facing. Why have a grease in an area not designed for grease? Here’s a good read of grease vs oil. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil My opinion, take it for what it’s worth, which is some asshole on the internet. That doesn’t make money off YouTube or have any reason to be e-famous. 1. Again, a firearm isn’t a closed system. Or semi closed system. You’re going to get a ton of contaminants in it. That’s just a function of a firearm in use. So cleaning regularly is recommended maintenance. 2. Grease, like oil, won’t stay where you want it to in an open system like a firearm. Sure, it’s more tacky. But it’s going to sling just like oil. Why/how? Well, most of the time because it’s about 60-70% oil anyways. Just a heavy oil. 3. Grease can cause fiction, instead of reducing it in the wrong application. 4. Grease comes with it’s own set of issues. Such as oil bleed off. The oil that grease is formulated with, will separate out from the grease and drop off with time. Given, higher performance greases are different. As well as different types of greases such as polyurea, PTFE, silicone and other exotics have different characteristics. But for the sake of this conversation, we’re talking about conventional greases. Specifically, a lithium based product that he is using and most use. The oil will leave the thickener. Which then inhibits the performance of the grease. Which, leads to lubrication failure. 5. Where is grease used primarily? - extreme pressure situations. King pins, U joints, bucket pins. These situations are high shock load, high pressure areas that are semi sealed in normal conditions. Also once through applications. This is to prevent wear on those points. But they have to be regularly maintained. One could argue trailer bearings, or bearing applications are high speed. But that’s why in most heavy duty / high speed applications you have oil systems. Think a light duty landscaping trailer vs a heavy duty semi trailer. Semi trailers use oil bath bearings. Light duty use grease. Which has more failures per mile traveled? Grease. 6. Also, think about these applications. They’re all one way lubricants. You purge the old out when you put the new in. Which means they’re semi sealed. The grease creates a seal on the exit end. The zerk fitting seals the grease entry point. Guns don’t have this luxury. There is no “seal” on an AR. So there is nothing to seal. Thus nothing to for the grease to seal. So back to why not use it in an AR? Why use it to begin with? If you’re using it primarily for its oil... why not use an oil? Just a higher risk of contamination build up once the oil leaves the grease. Now if you’re going to build a gun and put in an armory for 100 years like the fucking Russians? Yeah. Pack that mother fucker with grease. Actual use? Most applications... oil. Clean your gun. Save some time and mess. Way lubricants are mostly used in metal working applications. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for like 50 buck or less. Edit: There are definitely uses of grease in certain firearms. The M1 garand. The 1911. As they were designed with it in mind. You can certainly use oil on them too. Just a note. This is not a blanket statement of “grease bad. Oil good.” Use your knoggin. Think a bit about the mechanical action at hand. Both can work. Grease can certainly work in an AR. But, I propose the question of why? Even more, why bother with his mixture? For what he spent there he could just buy a semi fluid grease. Edit 2: To the topic of lithium and corrosion resistance. It’s why most marine greases are calcium based. Link to a good article again, as I’m too tired to write it out. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29658/multi-purpose-grease Point #2 is where I have a hard time following you. You have detailed knowledge of hundreds or thousands of different oils, so I'm sure there are varieties that come to mind for you with better properties than the oils I'm thinking of, but generally speaking, the oils I'm aware of as a consumer don't stay where I want them to nearly as well as greases do. Oils run/drain away while greases don't. If I'm going to pull a gun out of the safe, take it to the range, clean it, and put it away, then sure... some fresh oil on the way in and out of the safe makes sense. But what about a gun that's going to sit for weeks, months, or even years in a just in case role? I shouldn't have to say this, but after watching this video, I think I should also clarify... I don't "pack" anything with grease like he does the cam pin area, and I apply it in a fairly thin coat, not all gloppy and sloppy. |
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Quoted: I don't have a PhD in lubrication technology but I can tell you that when I was in the army the conventional infantry "wisdom" of too much oil attracts dirt was still common and I saw and experienced TONS of failures due to under lubricating stuff to avoid "attracting dirt." Then we got a company armorer who was a "renegade"(meaning he read the internet and tested stuff ) and we started doing "dirt attracting stuff" and stoppages magically dropped to near zero. We even used full size spray bottles full of CLP or motor oil we would just hose all over our 240s/SAWs when shooting high volume. Never had any issues, even when blasting off wayyyyy too many rounds for the number of spare barrels we brought because the LT didn't want to turn in extra ammo and fuck the equipment, shoot 20,000 rounds in an hour so we can go home and do it fast. Strangely that same LT was a devoted adherent of oil being dirt attracting and I vividly remember being at an EIB event and him lecturing a private in the barracks that the M4 should be cleaned with Hoppes and kept very dry to avoid stoppages. The ONLY place on the weapon that needs lubricant is the buffer tube and buffer spring. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I just use CLP, the best and most readily available gun lube, and I use it for other lube uses around the house. When it dries it attracts zero dirt. The problem with wet lubes is that they attracts debris and dirt. If you use too much on slides, it will fling oil back at the shooter's face and clothing. The trick for gun lubes is that a little goes a long ways. I don't have a PhD in lubrication technology but I can tell you that when I was in the army the conventional infantry "wisdom" of too much oil attracts dirt was still common and I saw and experienced TONS of failures due to under lubricating stuff to avoid "attracting dirt." Then we got a company armorer who was a "renegade"(meaning he read the internet and tested stuff ) and we started doing "dirt attracting stuff" and stoppages magically dropped to near zero. We even used full size spray bottles full of CLP or motor oil we would just hose all over our 240s/SAWs when shooting high volume. Never had any issues, even when blasting off wayyyyy too many rounds for the number of spare barrels we brought because the LT didn't want to turn in extra ammo and fuck the equipment, shoot 20,000 rounds in an hour so we can go home and do it fast. Strangely that same LT was a devoted adherent of oil being dirt attracting and I vividly remember being at an EIB event and him lecturing a private in the barracks that the M4 should be cleaned with Hoppes and kept very dry to avoid stoppages. The ONLY place on the weapon that needs lubricant is the buffer tube and buffer spring. My Army experience/opinion is similar to yours. We were constantly told to be sparing in our application of lubricant, and it was normal to see guys only apply a couple of drops or something trivial. We would then do a bunch of white glove dog and pony show BS when turning in our rifles, and they were expected to be fairly dry. I had a limited confidence in the M4 I carried in Iraq, and I left the Army with a fairly low opinion of M16/M4 rifles. It was only outside the Army that I discovered how much better they function with adequate lubrication. Amazing. |
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Quoted: I had a limited confidence in the M4 I carried in Iraq, and I left the Army with a fairly low opinion of M16/M4 rifles. It was only outside the Army that I discovered how much better they function with adequate lubrication. Amazing. View Quote He was a logistics officer in the army and not really a big time gun guy. He's competent with them but not really interested in the details. I'll bet a paycheck that his views are 100% the fault of the US Army's failure to ensure people actually understand their weapons and allowing NCO's to propagate idiotic BS like no lube, the old ".50 cal will tear your arm off with a near miss" BS, etc. Dumbest one I ever heard was an E-6(infantry) teaching a class on zeroing the PEQ-15. He was explaining where to put the visible zeroing laser, which is naturally offset from the IR aiming laser... since they are two different lasers, and goes "I'm sure you're all wondering why we're placing this visible zeroing laser higher than our point of expected impact. This has to with the curvature of the earth as the light bends from gravity over long distances..." Dude continued to give a "physics" lesson for 10 more minutes of off script made up bull shit nowhere to be found in any TM anywhere, while a bunch of cherry privates eagerly absorbed it all to repeat it later when they have sergeant stripes. The army could really benefit from outsourcing most technical training to contracted subject matter experts instead of trying to shoe horn knuckle draggers of varying and often questionable intellect into the role of an instructor. |
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Quoted: Guy seems like he knows his stuff about ar mechanics. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes This is debatable. He seems to understand blueprints, specifications and tolerances, and therefor creates his own gauges based on the min/max tolerances of the specs. Perhaps he even worked as qc acceptance of parts at a manufacturer at some point. Does this make him an expert in the use and operation of the weapons under field conditions? Far, far from it. thing I know is if I lubed my rifles like that they would be one shot guns very quickly. And you would be wrong. |
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Quoted: I see a lot of people have never been in a desert or live in a desert and think this is a great idea. View Quote Complete bunk. My nearly 4 years of weapons maintenance in the middle east proved the truth that even when e posed to sand and dust, wet is better than dry under any circumstance. Oil does not "attract" dirt. This is a myth. |
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Quoted: The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. View Quote Yes and no. What he really did do is show that he's an expert in working on guns that do not see field conditions or any real use outside of the occasional training class. |
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Quoted: I have been using "Vegan" plant based Lube for the past 9 years. Never had a issue, never had it gum up, and on some of my more collector items that sit for years, they are as lubed and rust free as the day I cleaned them and put then away. Granted I am not in a combat or desert situation. But water, hunting, and sitting for years, works very well.... https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61duNOJ%2BECL._AC_SX425_.jpg View Quote That stuff is legit, I won’t be repurchasing as I’ve found Hoppe’s and 10w-30 to cover my needs. But it’s a much improved CLP no doubt. It did melt my Glock diagram gun mat though, no idea how they designed something that can melt a mat like that and have it be plant based / eco friendly etc etc |
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Quoted: Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. I don’t know jack shit about any of this but I’m fairly certain this guy knows all the things about this Don’t you make or test motor oil or something like that, for a living? |
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Quoted: I don't have a PhD in lubrication technology but I can tell you that when I was in the army the conventional infantry "wisdom" of too much oil attracts dirt was still common and I saw and experienced TONS of failures due to under lubricating stuff to avoid "attracting dirt." Then we got a company armorer who was a "renegade"(meaning he read the internet and tested stuff ) and we started doing "dirt attracting stuff" and stoppages magically dropped to near zero. We even used full size spray bottles full of CLP or motor oil we would just hose all over our 240s/SAWs when shooting high volume. Never had any issues, even when blasting off wayyyyy too many rounds for the number of spare barrels we brought because the LT didn't want to turn in extra ammo and fuck the equipment, shoot 20,000 rounds in an hour so we can go home and do it fast. Strangely that same LT was a devoted adherent of oil being dirt attracting and I vividly remember being at an EIB event and him lecturing a private in the barracks that the M4 should be cleaned with Hoppes and kept very dry to avoid stoppages. The ONLY place on the weapon that needs lubricant is the buffer tube and buffer spring. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I just use CLP, the best and most readily available gun lube, and I use it for other lube uses around the house. When it dries it attracts zero dirt. The problem with wet lubes is that they attracts debris and dirt. If you use too much on slides, it will fling oil back at the shooter's face and clothing. The trick for gun lubes is that a little goes a long ways. I don't have a PhD in lubrication technology but I can tell you that when I was in the army the conventional infantry "wisdom" of too much oil attracts dirt was still common and I saw and experienced TONS of failures due to under lubricating stuff to avoid "attracting dirt." Then we got a company armorer who was a "renegade"(meaning he read the internet and tested stuff ) and we started doing "dirt attracting stuff" and stoppages magically dropped to near zero. We even used full size spray bottles full of CLP or motor oil we would just hose all over our 240s/SAWs when shooting high volume. Never had any issues, even when blasting off wayyyyy too many rounds for the number of spare barrels we brought because the LT didn't want to turn in extra ammo and fuck the equipment, shoot 20,000 rounds in an hour so we can go home and do it fast. Strangely that same LT was a devoted adherent of oil being dirt attracting and I vividly remember being at an EIB event and him lecturing a private in the barracks that the M4 should be cleaned with Hoppes and kept very dry to avoid stoppages. The ONLY place on the weapon that needs lubricant is the buffer tube and buffer spring. I spoke with a Glock rep, about at G17 that shot 750,000 rds, he recommends ONE drop of CLP on the slide rails, and on the barrel hood, and reassemble. The G17 is a rental gun at the local indoor shooting range. |
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Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/346870/lube_jpg-1703886.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/346870/oil_2_jpg-1703892.JPG I can't deal with this... View Quote Attached File Attached File |
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Dude must really love to clean his guns after each and every range trip. Looks like a fucking nightmare.
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Quoted: I don't have a PhD in lubrication technology but I can tell you that when I was in the army the conventional infantry "wisdom" of too much oil attracts dirt was still common and I saw and experienced TONS of failures due to under lubricating stuff to avoid "attracting dirt." Then we got a company armorer who was a "renegade"(meaning he read the internet and tested stuff ) and we started doing "dirt attracting stuff" and stoppages magically dropped to near zero. We even used full size spray bottles full of CLP or motor oil we would just hose all over our 240s/SAWs when shooting high volume. Never had any issues, even when blasting off wayyyyy too many rounds for the number of spare barrels we brought because the LT didn't want to turn in extra ammo and fuck the equipment, shoot 20,000 rounds in an hour so we can go home and do it fast. Strangely that same LT was a devoted adherent of oil being dirt attracting and I vividly remember being at an EIB event and him lecturing a private in the barracks that the M4 should be cleaned with Hoppes and kept very dry to avoid stoppages. The ONLY place on the weapon that needs lubricant is the buffer tube and buffer spring. View Quote When i was a contract armorer/inspector in afghan, I had many talks with whoever would listen about this exact same issue. Too many guns came in bone dry. I tried to educate, but the orders from the top down were to avoid lube because they wete convinced that it "attracts dirt". I explained the sand trials, the heirarchy of clean lubed>dirty lubed>clean dry>dirty dry and gave links to online education on the subject. Only a few dialed in soldiers were willing to listen. The idiocy of some in the officer ranks was appalling. The assumption that contractors were little work monkeys rather than trained professionals lead them to treat us like the local nationals that ran the laundry rooms. If the Army had the capability to perform the work we did, they wouldn't have been paying us ridiculous amounts of money to be doing it for them. Technically, we are the SME'S that the Army didn't have available to do the work for them in great enough numbers to do it themselves. The soldiers who listened always had positive results. The rest continued having issues and brought the weapons back to us for failing, time and time again, as if it were our fault. Keep in mind, the specific unit i'm thinking of had recently deployed while i was there and had a strict rule that nobody was to dissassemble, clean, or lube their weapons without an E5 or higher there to watch them do it. That's when i also found out that chastising a Major for not taking care of his equipment by reminding him that he sets the example, is a great way to piss him off. He was quite the self important turd. |
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Quoted: I don't have a PhD in lubrication technology but I can tell you that when I was in the army the conventional infantry "wisdom" of too much oil attracts dirt was still common and I saw and experienced TONS of failures due to under lubricating stuff to avoid "attracting dirt." Then we got a company armorer who was a "renegade"(meaning he read the internet and tested stuff ) and we started doing "dirt attracting stuff" and stoppages magically dropped to near zero. We even used full size spray bottles full of CLP or motor oil we would just hose all over our 240s/SAWs when shooting high volume. Never had any issues, even when blasting off wayyyyy too many rounds for the number of spare barrels we brought because the LT didn't want to turn in extra ammo and fuck the equipment, shoot 20,000 rounds in an hour so we can go home and do it fast. Strangely that same LT was a devoted adherent of oil being dirt attracting and I vividly remember being at an EIB event and him lecturing a private in the barracks that the M4 should be cleaned with Hoppes and kept very dry to avoid stoppages. The ONLY place on the weapon that needs lubricant is the buffer tube and buffer spring. View Quote I bet he was great on land NAV though... I run my shit wet and it keeps running. |
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LSA applies to the friction surfaces of the BCG is all you need. A few dabs of it and you are running. Don’t use lube with high viscosity because it runs off of the locations that need the lube and down into the trigger groupings. It’s not rocket science. This is applicable for non match grade and anything that doesn’t have super high tolerances. My 2011s get Lucas oil because it is thinner, but needs to be re-applied frequently
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Quoted: I don’t know jack shit about any of this but I’m fairly certain this guy knows all the things about this Don’t you make or test motor oil or something like that, for a living? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. I don’t know jack shit about any of this but I’m fairly certain this guy knows all the things about this Don’t you make or test motor oil or something like that, for a living? He owns and operates an oil company. I don’t know which one it is, but it’s apparently big enough that their lubricants and other products get packaged and sold under other brands. |
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Quoted: Point #2 is where I have a hard time following you. You have detailed knowledge of hundreds or thousands of different oils, so I'm sure there are varieties that come to mind for you with better properties than the oils I'm thinking of, but generally speaking, the oils I'm aware of as a consumer don't stay where I want them to nearly as well as greases do. Oils run/drain away while greases don't. If I'm going to pull a gun out of the safe, take it to the range, clean it, and put it away, then sure... some fresh oil on the way in and out of the safe makes sense. But what about a gun that's going to sit for weeks, months, or even years in a just in case role? I shouldn't have to say this, but after watching this video, I think I should also clarify... I don't "pack" anything with grease like he does the cam pin area, and I apply it in a fairly thin coat, not all gloppy and sloppy. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. The lithium grease corrosion discussion is new to me. I'm pretty sure the grease I've been using is probably lithium based. I think the tolerances part of the conversation is something one can eyeball to an extent. A Dan Wesson, Nighthawk, or a tighter space like where a bolt sits in a BCG is obviously not where you'd want a grease. But much looser areas? Why not? "Way oil" sounds interesting, but they don't seem to sell it anywhere consumer facing. Why have a grease in an area not designed for grease? Here’s a good read of grease vs oil. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil My opinion, take it for what it’s worth, which is some asshole on the internet. That doesn’t make money off YouTube or have any reason to be e-famous. 1. Again, a firearm isn’t a closed system. Or semi closed system. You’re going to get a ton of contaminants in it. That’s just a function of a firearm in use. So cleaning regularly is recommended maintenance. 2. Grease, like oil, won’t stay where you want it to in an open system like a firearm. Sure, it’s more tacky. But it’s going to sling just like oil. Why/how? Well, most of the time because it’s about 60-70% oil anyways. Just a heavy oil. 3. Grease can cause fiction, instead of reducing it in the wrong application. 4. Grease comes with it’s own set of issues. Such as oil bleed off. The oil that grease is formulated with, will separate out from the grease and drop off with time. Given, higher performance greases are different. As well as different types of greases such as polyurea, PTFE, silicone and other exotics have different characteristics. But for the sake of this conversation, we’re talking about conventional greases. Specifically, a lithium based product that he is using and most use. The oil will leave the thickener. Which then inhibits the performance of the grease. Which, leads to lubrication failure. 5. Where is grease used primarily? - extreme pressure situations. King pins, U joints, bucket pins. These situations are high shock load, high pressure areas that are semi sealed in normal conditions. Also once through applications. This is to prevent wear on those points. But they have to be regularly maintained. One could argue trailer bearings, or bearing applications are high speed. But that’s why in most heavy duty / high speed applications you have oil systems. Think a light duty landscaping trailer vs a heavy duty semi trailer. Semi trailers use oil bath bearings. Light duty use grease. Which has more failures per mile traveled? Grease. 6. Also, think about these applications. They’re all one way lubricants. You purge the old out when you put the new in. Which means they’re semi sealed. The grease creates a seal on the exit end. The zerk fitting seals the grease entry point. Guns don’t have this luxury. There is no “seal” on an AR. So there is nothing to seal. Thus nothing to for the grease to seal. So back to why not use it in an AR? Why use it to begin with? If you’re using it primarily for its oil... why not use an oil? Just a higher risk of contamination build up once the oil leaves the grease. Now if you’re going to build a gun and put in an armory for 100 years like the fucking Russians? Yeah. Pack that mother fucker with grease. Actual use? Most applications... oil. Clean your gun. Save some time and mess. Way lubricants are mostly used in metal working applications. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for like 50 buck or less. Edit: There are definitely uses of grease in certain firearms. The M1 garand. The 1911. As they were designed with it in mind. You can certainly use oil on them too. Just a note. This is not a blanket statement of “grease bad. Oil good.” Use your knoggin. Think a bit about the mechanical action at hand. Both can work. Grease can certainly work in an AR. But, I propose the question of why? Even more, why bother with his mixture? For what he spent there he could just buy a semi fluid grease. Edit 2: To the topic of lithium and corrosion resistance. It’s why most marine greases are calcium based. Link to a good article again, as I’m too tired to write it out. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29658/multi-purpose-grease Point #2 is where I have a hard time following you. You have detailed knowledge of hundreds or thousands of different oils, so I'm sure there are varieties that come to mind for you with better properties than the oils I'm thinking of, but generally speaking, the oils I'm aware of as a consumer don't stay where I want them to nearly as well as greases do. Oils run/drain away while greases don't. If I'm going to pull a gun out of the safe, take it to the range, clean it, and put it away, then sure... some fresh oil on the way in and out of the safe makes sense. But what about a gun that's going to sit for weeks, months, or even years in a just in case role? I shouldn't have to say this, but after watching this video, I think I should also clarify... I don't "pack" anything with grease like he does the cam pin area, and I apply it in a fairly thin coat, not all gloppy and sloppy. Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. |
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Quoted: I don’t know jack shit about any of this but I’m fairly certain this guy knows all the things about this Don’t you make or test motor oil or something like that, for a living? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. I don’t know jack shit about any of this but I’m fairly certain this guy knows all the things about this Don’t you make or test motor oil or something like that, for a living? Just supply Lubricants and technical advice on lubricants to some of the largest steel, aluminum and specialty alloy manufacturers in North American. As well as the mining industry, machining industry, construction, food and automotive industries. Motor oil is about 1/2 of our over all volume. But not the only thing we do. |
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Post a description (and pics) of your AR lubricant/s and lubrication process.
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Quoted: I don't have a PhD in lubrication technology but I can tell you that when I was in the army the conventional infantry "wisdom" of too much oil attracts dirt was still common and I saw and experienced TONS of failures due to under lubricating stuff to avoid "attracting dirt." Then we got a company armorer who was a "renegade"(meaning he read the internet and tested stuff ) and we started doing "dirt attracting stuff" and stoppages magically dropped to near zero. We even used full size spray bottles full of CLP or motor oil we would just hose all over our 240s/SAWs when shooting high volume. Never had any issues, even when blasting off wayyyyy too many rounds for the number of spare barrels we brought because the LT didn't want to turn in extra ammo and fuck the equipment, shoot 20,000 rounds in an hour so we can go home and do it fast. Strangely that same LT was a devoted adherent of oil being dirt attracting and I vividly remember being at an EIB event and him lecturing a private in the barracks that the M4 should be cleaned with Hoppes and kept very dry to avoid stoppages. The ONLY place on the weapon that needs lubricant is the buffer tube and buffer spring. View Quote Attached File |
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Pat Rogers had a great solution for those who didn't know how to lube a rifle...
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Quoted: Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. The lithium grease corrosion discussion is new to me. I'm pretty sure the grease I've been using is probably lithium based. I think the tolerances part of the conversation is something one can eyeball to an extent. A Dan Wesson, Nighthawk, or a tighter space like where a bolt sits in a BCG is obviously not where you'd want a grease. But much looser areas? Why not? "Way oil" sounds interesting, but they don't seem to sell it anywhere consumer facing. Why have a grease in an area not designed for grease? Here’s a good read of grease vs oil. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil My opinion, take it for what it’s worth, which is some asshole on the internet. That doesn’t make money off YouTube or have any reason to be e-famous. 1. Again, a firearm isn’t a closed system. Or semi closed system. You’re going to get a ton of contaminants in it. That’s just a function of a firearm in use. So cleaning regularly is recommended maintenance. 2. Grease, like oil, won’t stay where you want it to in an open system like a firearm. Sure, it’s more tacky. But it’s going to sling just like oil. Why/how? Well, most of the time because it’s about 60-70% oil anyways. Just a heavy oil. 3. Grease can cause fiction, instead of reducing it in the wrong application. 4. Grease comes with it’s own set of issues. Such as oil bleed off. The oil that grease is formulated with, will separate out from the grease and drop off with time. Given, higher performance greases are different. As well as different types of greases such as polyurea, PTFE, silicone and other exotics have different characteristics. But for the sake of this conversation, we’re talking about conventional greases. Specifically, a lithium based product that he is using and most use. The oil will leave the thickener. Which then inhibits the performance of the grease. Which, leads to lubrication failure. 5. Where is grease used primarily? - extreme pressure situations. King pins, U joints, bucket pins. These situations are high shock load, high pressure areas that are semi sealed in normal conditions. Also once through applications. This is to prevent wear on those points. But they have to be regularly maintained. One could argue trailer bearings, or bearing applications are high speed. But that’s why in most heavy duty / high speed applications you have oil systems. Think a light duty landscaping trailer vs a heavy duty semi trailer. Semi trailers use oil bath bearings. Light duty use grease. Which has more failures per mile traveled? Grease. 6. Also, think about these applications. They’re all one way lubricants. You purge the old out when you put the new in. Which means they’re semi sealed. The grease creates a seal on the exit end. The zerk fitting seals the grease entry point. Guns don’t have this luxury. There is no “seal” on an AR. So there is nothing to seal. Thus nothing to for the grease to seal. So back to why not use it in an AR? Why use it to begin with? If you’re using it primarily for its oil... why not use an oil? Just a higher risk of contamination build up once the oil leaves the grease. Now if you’re going to build a gun and put in an armory for 100 years like the fucking Russians? Yeah. Pack that mother fucker with grease. Actual use? Most applications... oil. Clean your gun. Save some time and mess. Way lubricants are mostly used in metal working applications. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for like 50 buck or less. Edit: There are definitely uses of grease in certain firearms. The M1 garand. The 1911. As they were designed with it in mind. You can certainly use oil on them too. Just a note. This is not a blanket statement of “grease bad. Oil good.” Use your knoggin. Think a bit about the mechanical action at hand. Both can work. Grease can certainly work in an AR. But, I propose the question of why? Even more, why bother with his mixture? For what he spent there he could just buy a semi fluid grease. Edit 2: To the topic of lithium and corrosion resistance. It’s why most marine greases are calcium based. Link to a good article again, as I’m too tired to write it out. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29658/multi-purpose-grease Point #2 is where I have a hard time following you. You have detailed knowledge of hundreds or thousands of different oils, so I'm sure there are varieties that come to mind for you with better properties than the oils I'm thinking of, but generally speaking, the oils I'm aware of as a consumer don't stay where I want them to nearly as well as greases do. Oils run/drain away while greases don't. If I'm going to pull a gun out of the safe, take it to the range, clean it, and put it away, then sure... some fresh oil on the way in and out of the safe makes sense. But what about a gun that's going to sit for weeks, months, or even years in a just in case role? I shouldn't have to say this, but after watching this video, I think I should also clarify... I don't "pack" anything with grease like he does the cam pin area, and I apply it in a fairly thin coat, not all gloppy and sloppy. Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. When you say "slings," are you talking about lubricant flying off the applied surface due to inertia? Is there a flavor of grease commonly available at automotive/hardware stores you think would be more appropriate? |
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Quoted: When you say "slings," are you talking about lubricant flying off the applied surface due to inertia? Is there a flavor of grease commonly available at automotive/hardware stores you think would be more appropriate? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. The lithium grease corrosion discussion is new to me. I'm pretty sure the grease I've been using is probably lithium based. I think the tolerances part of the conversation is something one can eyeball to an extent. A Dan Wesson, Nighthawk, or a tighter space like where a bolt sits in a BCG is obviously not where you'd want a grease. But much looser areas? Why not? "Way oil" sounds interesting, but they don't seem to sell it anywhere consumer facing. Why have a grease in an area not designed for grease? Here’s a good read of grease vs oil. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil My opinion, take it for what it’s worth, which is some asshole on the internet. That doesn’t make money off YouTube or have any reason to be e-famous. 1. Again, a firearm isn’t a closed system. Or semi closed system. You’re going to get a ton of contaminants in it. That’s just a function of a firearm in use. So cleaning regularly is recommended maintenance. 2. Grease, like oil, won’t stay where you want it to in an open system like a firearm. Sure, it’s more tacky. But it’s going to sling just like oil. Why/how? Well, most of the time because it’s about 60-70% oil anyways. Just a heavy oil. 3. Grease can cause fiction, instead of reducing it in the wrong application. 4. Grease comes with it’s own set of issues. Such as oil bleed off. The oil that grease is formulated with, will separate out from the grease and drop off with time. Given, higher performance greases are different. As well as different types of greases such as polyurea, PTFE, silicone and other exotics have different characteristics. But for the sake of this conversation, we’re talking about conventional greases. Specifically, a lithium based product that he is using and most use. The oil will leave the thickener. Which then inhibits the performance of the grease. Which, leads to lubrication failure. 5. Where is grease used primarily? - extreme pressure situations. King pins, U joints, bucket pins. These situations are high shock load, high pressure areas that are semi sealed in normal conditions. Also once through applications. This is to prevent wear on those points. But they have to be regularly maintained. One could argue trailer bearings, or bearing applications are high speed. But that’s why in most heavy duty / high speed applications you have oil systems. Think a light duty landscaping trailer vs a heavy duty semi trailer. Semi trailers use oil bath bearings. Light duty use grease. Which has more failures per mile traveled? Grease. 6. Also, think about these applications. They’re all one way lubricants. You purge the old out when you put the new in. Which means they’re semi sealed. The grease creates a seal on the exit end. The zerk fitting seals the grease entry point. Guns don’t have this luxury. There is no “seal” on an AR. So there is nothing to seal. Thus nothing to for the grease to seal. So back to why not use it in an AR? Why use it to begin with? If you’re using it primarily for its oil... why not use an oil? Just a higher risk of contamination build up once the oil leaves the grease. Now if you’re going to build a gun and put in an armory for 100 years like the fucking Russians? Yeah. Pack that mother fucker with grease. Actual use? Most applications... oil. Clean your gun. Save some time and mess. Way lubricants are mostly used in metal working applications. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for like 50 buck or less. Edit: There are definitely uses of grease in certain firearms. The M1 garand. The 1911. As they were designed with it in mind. You can certainly use oil on them too. Just a note. This is not a blanket statement of “grease bad. Oil good.” Use your knoggin. Think a bit about the mechanical action at hand. Both can work. Grease can certainly work in an AR. But, I propose the question of why? Even more, why bother with his mixture? For what he spent there he could just buy a semi fluid grease. Edit 2: To the topic of lithium and corrosion resistance. It’s why most marine greases are calcium based. Link to a good article again, as I’m too tired to write it out. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29658/multi-purpose-grease Point #2 is where I have a hard time following you. You have detailed knowledge of hundreds or thousands of different oils, so I'm sure there are varieties that come to mind for you with better properties than the oils I'm thinking of, but generally speaking, the oils I'm aware of as a consumer don't stay where I want them to nearly as well as greases do. Oils run/drain away while greases don't. If I'm going to pull a gun out of the safe, take it to the range, clean it, and put it away, then sure... some fresh oil on the way in and out of the safe makes sense. But what about a gun that's going to sit for weeks, months, or even years in a just in case role? I shouldn't have to say this, but after watching this video, I think I should also clarify... I don't "pack" anything with grease like he does the cam pin area, and I apply it in a fairly thin coat, not all gloppy and sloppy. Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. When you say "slings," are you talking about lubricant flying off the applied surface due to inertia? Is there a flavor of grease commonly available at automotive/hardware stores you think would be more appropriate? Yes, when the product flys off. Sling lubrication is used in like the rear axle of a car or truck. The gear goes through an oil bath, it’s then carried by the gear with the excess being sling’d off in the process. Not really any hardware store grease that I could highly recommend. As you’ll run into a normal lithium / lithium complex grease. Lubriplate SFL-0 has been the standard for the gun industry for 70-80 years essentially. TW25 is another standard for gun greases. SFL-0 is an aluminum complex grease, which is pretty unique. Highly water resistant with a good temperature range. Aluminum complex greases are traditionally used in the food industry. SFL-0 is food grade. So a fairly safe grease too for you to be around. Let alone the properties of it. TW25 is a calcium grease. Has its own benefits of not dropping oil fast. Lubriplate 130A is the m1 garand grease. It’s another calcium grease. It’s pretty heavy, so they also make the 130AA. Which is a #1 and it would do well in colder temps. |
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Quoted: Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. View Quote Interesting. Just goes to show that there's many aspects to one particular "knowledge" area. Chad is a very well respected gunmsmith here in MD. What are your thoughts on this guy? https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ |
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Quoted: Dude must really love to clean his guns after each and every range trip. Looks like a fucking nightmare. View Quote That was my first thought as well. Way too much work for no realistic benefit. To paraphrase the late Pat Rogers - they’ll run dirty but they won’t run dry. He used to just squirt a bunch of whatever lube someone gave him in the ejection port and bottom of the bolt (through the magazine well) and run the bolt a few times. He’d run SBRs for 10K+ rounds without cleaning, just lube. I stopped worrying about overthinking this, years ago. |
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Quoted: Interesting. Just goes to show that there's many aspects to one particular "knowledge" area. Chad is a very well respected gunmsmith here in MD. What are your thoughts on this guy? https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. Interesting. Just goes to show that there's many aspects to one particular "knowledge" area. Chad is a very well respected gunmsmith here in MD. What are your thoughts on this guy? https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ Dude is spot on. We even recommended give or take the same products as well. He uses well known terminology in the correct fashion. 100% |
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I can get a similar sized bottle of Weapons Shield for about what he says the lube
In the Siricha bottle costs. |
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I never even considered way lube, but that makes a ton of sense.
Machine tools slide on the ways, and on an enclosed tool, you have metal dust/chips/dirt and (often) flood coolant to contend with. All of that is contaminating the exposed ways constantly. It certainly seems like a strong application. |
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Quoted: Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. View Quote Anecdotally I'm not sure I can agree with this statement. I grease the bolt cam pin on my ARs and they are most often still grease coated after shooting, where when I oil them they are dry. Some areas it doesn't matter, like the sliding rails on the carrier. |
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Holy shit. Should have got the hint when he went at it with a pair of rubber gloves.
I use automotive products too, but in lesser amounts. Can you lube too much? Yes IMO. I shoot in the woods, not sterile ranges, and too much goop will pick up debris. YMMV. |
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Quoted: Anecdotally I'm not sure I can agree with this statement. I grease the bolt cam pin on my ARs and they are most often still grease coated after shooting, where when I oil them they are dry. Some areas it doesn't matter, like the sliding rails on the carrier. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. Anecdotally I'm not sure I can agree with this statement. I grease the bolt cam pin on my ARs and they are most often still grease coated after shooting, where when I oil them they are dry. Some areas it doesn't matter, like the sliding rails on the carrier. Prefacing my next statements: I’m just some asshole on the internet putting up a debate against some, apparently efamous YouTuber. Take my statements for what they’re worth. That being said, sure. There’s a situation like that where a dab of grease might be better than an off the shelf oil. My counter argument is I use regular 5w30 right now. I’ve never had a failure in that area or experienced pre-mature wear. So why it might not sling off in that exact area, is there any benefit of using a grease there? Maybe. Maybe not. My entire jist of my posts should be taken as: firearms are simple to lube. Don’t over think it. There’s no magic sauce or secret recipe for firearms lubricants. Just use something. Regularly. Probably something cheap. |
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Quoted: Yes, when the product flys off. Sling lubrication is used in like the rear axle of a car or truck. The gear goes through an oil bath, it’s then carried by the gear with the excess being sling’d off in the process. Not really any hardware store grease that I could highly recommend. As you’ll run into a normal lithium / lithium complex grease. Lubriplate SFL-0 has been the standard for the gun industry for 70-80 years essentially. TW25 is another standard for gun greases. SFL-0 is an aluminum complex grease, which is pretty unique. Highly water resistant with a good temperature range. Aluminum complex greases are traditionally used in the food industry. SFL-0 is food grade. So a fairly safe grease too for you to be around. Let alone the properties of it. TW25 is a calcium grease. Has its own benefits of not dropping oil fast. Lubriplate 130A is the m1 garand grease. It’s another calcium grease. It’s pretty heavy, so they also make the 130AA. Which is a #1 and it would do well in colder temps. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. The lithium grease corrosion discussion is new to me. I'm pretty sure the grease I've been using is probably lithium based. I think the tolerances part of the conversation is something one can eyeball to an extent. A Dan Wesson, Nighthawk, or a tighter space like where a bolt sits in a BCG is obviously not where you'd want a grease. But much looser areas? Why not? "Way oil" sounds interesting, but they don't seem to sell it anywhere consumer facing. Why have a grease in an area not designed for grease? Here’s a good read of grease vs oil. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil My opinion, take it for what it’s worth, which is some asshole on the internet. That doesn’t make money off YouTube or have any reason to be e-famous. 1. Again, a firearm isn’t a closed system. Or semi closed system. You’re going to get a ton of contaminants in it. That’s just a function of a firearm in use. So cleaning regularly is recommended maintenance. 2. Grease, like oil, won’t stay where you want it to in an open system like a firearm. Sure, it’s more tacky. But it’s going to sling just like oil. Why/how? Well, most of the time because it’s about 60-70% oil anyways. Just a heavy oil. 3. Grease can cause fiction, instead of reducing it in the wrong application. 4. Grease comes with it’s own set of issues. Such as oil bleed off. The oil that grease is formulated with, will separate out from the grease and drop off with time. Given, higher performance greases are different. As well as different types of greases such as polyurea, PTFE, silicone and other exotics have different characteristics. But for the sake of this conversation, we’re talking about conventional greases. Specifically, a lithium based product that he is using and most use. The oil will leave the thickener. Which then inhibits the performance of the grease. Which, leads to lubrication failure. 5. Where is grease used primarily? - extreme pressure situations. King pins, U joints, bucket pins. These situations are high shock load, high pressure areas that are semi sealed in normal conditions. Also once through applications. This is to prevent wear on those points. But they have to be regularly maintained. One could argue trailer bearings, or bearing applications are high speed. But that’s why in most heavy duty / high speed applications you have oil systems. Think a light duty landscaping trailer vs a heavy duty semi trailer. Semi trailers use oil bath bearings. Light duty use grease. Which has more failures per mile traveled? Grease. 6. Also, think about these applications. They’re all one way lubricants. You purge the old out when you put the new in. Which means they’re semi sealed. The grease creates a seal on the exit end. The zerk fitting seals the grease entry point. Guns don’t have this luxury. There is no “seal” on an AR. So there is nothing to seal. Thus nothing to for the grease to seal. So back to why not use it in an AR? Why use it to begin with? If you’re using it primarily for its oil... why not use an oil? Just a higher risk of contamination build up once the oil leaves the grease. Now if you’re going to build a gun and put in an armory for 100 years like the fucking Russians? Yeah. Pack that mother fucker with grease. Actual use? Most applications... oil. Clean your gun. Save some time and mess. Way lubricants are mostly used in metal working applications. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for like 50 buck or less. Edit: There are definitely uses of grease in certain firearms. The M1 garand. The 1911. As they were designed with it in mind. You can certainly use oil on them too. Just a note. This is not a blanket statement of “grease bad. Oil good.” Use your knoggin. Think a bit about the mechanical action at hand. Both can work. Grease can certainly work in an AR. But, I propose the question of why? Even more, why bother with his mixture? For what he spent there he could just buy a semi fluid grease. Edit 2: To the topic of lithium and corrosion resistance. It’s why most marine greases are calcium based. Link to a good article again, as I’m too tired to write it out. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29658/multi-purpose-grease Point #2 is where I have a hard time following you. You have detailed knowledge of hundreds or thousands of different oils, so I'm sure there are varieties that come to mind for you with better properties than the oils I'm thinking of, but generally speaking, the oils I'm aware of as a consumer don't stay where I want them to nearly as well as greases do. Oils run/drain away while greases don't. If I'm going to pull a gun out of the safe, take it to the range, clean it, and put it away, then sure... some fresh oil on the way in and out of the safe makes sense. But what about a gun that's going to sit for weeks, months, or even years in a just in case role? I shouldn't have to say this, but after watching this video, I think I should also clarify... I don't "pack" anything with grease like he does the cam pin area, and I apply it in a fairly thin coat, not all gloppy and sloppy. Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. When you say "slings," are you talking about lubricant flying off the applied surface due to inertia? Is there a flavor of grease commonly available at automotive/hardware stores you think would be more appropriate? Yes, when the product flys off. Sling lubrication is used in like the rear axle of a car or truck. The gear goes through an oil bath, it’s then carried by the gear with the excess being sling’d off in the process. Not really any hardware store grease that I could highly recommend. As you’ll run into a normal lithium / lithium complex grease. Lubriplate SFL-0 has been the standard for the gun industry for 70-80 years essentially. TW25 is another standard for gun greases. SFL-0 is an aluminum complex grease, which is pretty unique. Highly water resistant with a good temperature range. Aluminum complex greases are traditionally used in the food industry. SFL-0 is food grade. So a fairly safe grease too for you to be around. Let alone the properties of it. TW25 is a calcium grease. Has its own benefits of not dropping oil fast. Lubriplate 130A is the m1 garand grease. It’s another calcium grease. It’s pretty heavy, so they also make the 130AA. Which is a #1 and it would do well in colder temps. I find myself reminded of the video where Gale Banks made a transparent diff cover to explain cooling/lubrication... I'm not sure a pistol slide or a rifle bolt carrier fits that description, though. I want to take your parts store challenge, and get your opinion on a couple products. I checked Napa, Advanced, O'Reilly, and Auto Zone... Most of them have Lucas Marine Grease listed as either in stock or same day available from the parts truck. It looks like one of the calcium based products you described above. https://lucasoil.com/products/grease/marine-grease The other is something called Green Grease. All of the parts stores carry it. The product description is that it's a "waterproof synthetic polymer" grease, but nothing I'm seeing says what the base is. https://www.greengrease.net/PDF/GreenGease.pdf Thoughts on stuff like this? |
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Quoted: Complete bunk. My nearly 4 years of weapons maintenance in the middle east proved the truth that even when e posed to sand and dust, wet is better than dry under any circumstance. Oil does not "attract" dirt. This is a myth. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I see a lot of people have never been in a desert or live in a desert and think this is a great idea. Complete bunk. My nearly 4 years of weapons maintenance in the middle east proved the truth that even when e posed to sand and dust, wet is better than dry under any circumstance. Oil does not "attract" dirt. This is a myth. All I know is that is if you had an overly "wet" weapon exposed to non stationary sand and dust, like our M296 .50cals and M4s in the cockpit, they would look like sugar cookies after about an hour. You would also have weapons malfunctions because of the non attracted sand and dirt. I know a lot of people poo poo it but once we switched to militec-1, we didn't have as many problems. And no where did I say "dry". All mechanical equipment needs lube. |
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Not surprised he’s spending a fortune on lube, 90% of it is probably on the ground after 1 mag.
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Quoted: I find myself reminded of the video where Gale Banks made a transparent diff cover to explain cooling/lubrication... I'm not sure a pistol slide or a rifle bolt carrier fits that description, though. I want to take your parts store challenge, and get your opinion on a couple products. I checked Napa, Advanced, O'Reilly, and Auto Zone... Most of them have Lucas Marine Grease listed as either in stock or same day available from the parts truck. It looks like one of the calcium based products you described above. https://lucasoil.com/products/grease/marine-grease The other is something called Green Grease. All of the parts stores carry it. The product description is that it's a "waterproof synthetic polymer" grease, but nothing I'm seeing says what the base is. https://www.greengrease.net/PDF/GreenGease.pdf Thoughts on stuff like this? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also, I got about 45 seconds into the video closed it. Guy sounded smart until he mentioned viscosity of the product he made and how much he was spending on gun oils. For the “thousands of dollars” he supposedly spent on gun oils, he could of bought a drum of full synthetic motor oil. And cleaned a gun after every round for years to come. Just because you’re an idiot doesn’t mean you need to announce it online. The dude knows more about the technical design and function of the AR than pretty much anyone. However his lubrication ideas are ridiculous. Perhaps he does. But lacking knowledge in the fundamentals of lubrication means you don’t understand technical design. See my link earlier. The AR platform, along with majority of firearms, are a “way action” - or a sliding action. Way lubricants are what you would use to combat this in an industrial application. Firearms, where the moving parts are, do not get extremely hot in the scheme of things. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to hold the firearm. The secondary to that, is shock. Firearms move fast and have a high shock load. Every time the round fires, recoil, etc. Third is contamination. Loop in the fact the firearm is not a closed loop system. Meaning, the oil isn’t contained and reused. It’s a single use product. Not like say a engine where the oil is filtered and cooled. By doing what he is doing, first off: He has no idea what the hell he’s making or why he’s even doing it. He might have an idea on the macro level. But he’s defeating a lot of the purpose of a lubricant. A lubricant is supposed to reduce friction. So he’s combining a 220 base oil lithium grease, with either a 5w or 0w oil. Which is going to be 100 base oil or 70 base oil respectively. To make what? A thicker product with lithium in it? And a tackifier? Just use a wayoil 32 and save some money. Secondly, you’re filling space up with the grease to make a barrier lubricant, in a sliding situation. This is actually going to increase friction over a properly spec’d lubricant. You don’t need a heavy lubricant like a grease in most firearms because the tolerances don’t call for it. Which we could then have the conversation of tolerances, grease and contamination. But I think you see the point. Third. As the military learned, I don’t know, a 100 fucking years ago, lithium based greases are bad as gun greases. Which is why the military used calcium based greases for their gun greases dating back before WW2. Lithium greases hold 1 to 1 water. So 1 oz of grease will hold 1 oz of water. This is bad for corrosion resistance. As you’re relying on the corrosion inhibitors to protect metals instead of removing the problem, which is water. Calcium based greases hold .25 to 1. So 1 oz of grease will hold .25 oz of water. This combats the issue of just not letting water in. I can go on but it’s midnight. I think my point has been made that his technical knowledge on lubricants is ignorant at best. And with that his technical knowledge on firearms, leaves me skeptical. The lithium grease corrosion discussion is new to me. I'm pretty sure the grease I've been using is probably lithium based. I think the tolerances part of the conversation is something one can eyeball to an extent. A Dan Wesson, Nighthawk, or a tighter space like where a bolt sits in a BCG is obviously not where you'd want a grease. But much looser areas? Why not? "Way oil" sounds interesting, but they don't seem to sell it anywhere consumer facing. Why have a grease in an area not designed for grease? Here’s a good read of grease vs oil. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil My opinion, take it for what it’s worth, which is some asshole on the internet. That doesn’t make money off YouTube or have any reason to be e-famous. 1. Again, a firearm isn’t a closed system. Or semi closed system. You’re going to get a ton of contaminants in it. That’s just a function of a firearm in use. So cleaning regularly is recommended maintenance. 2. Grease, like oil, won’t stay where you want it to in an open system like a firearm. Sure, it’s more tacky. But it’s going to sling just like oil. Why/how? Well, most of the time because it’s about 60-70% oil anyways. Just a heavy oil. 3. Grease can cause fiction, instead of reducing it in the wrong application. 4. Grease comes with it’s own set of issues. Such as oil bleed off. The oil that grease is formulated with, will separate out from the grease and drop off with time. Given, higher performance greases are different. As well as different types of greases such as polyurea, PTFE, silicone and other exotics have different characteristics. But for the sake of this conversation, we’re talking about conventional greases. Specifically, a lithium based product that he is using and most use. The oil will leave the thickener. Which then inhibits the performance of the grease. Which, leads to lubrication failure. 5. Where is grease used primarily? - extreme pressure situations. King pins, U joints, bucket pins. These situations are high shock load, high pressure areas that are semi sealed in normal conditions. Also once through applications. This is to prevent wear on those points. But they have to be regularly maintained. One could argue trailer bearings, or bearing applications are high speed. But that’s why in most heavy duty / high speed applications you have oil systems. Think a light duty landscaping trailer vs a heavy duty semi trailer. Semi trailers use oil bath bearings. Light duty use grease. Which has more failures per mile traveled? Grease. 6. Also, think about these applications. They’re all one way lubricants. You purge the old out when you put the new in. Which means they’re semi sealed. The grease creates a seal on the exit end. The zerk fitting seals the grease entry point. Guns don’t have this luxury. There is no “seal” on an AR. So there is nothing to seal. Thus nothing to for the grease to seal. So back to why not use it in an AR? Why use it to begin with? If you’re using it primarily for its oil... why not use an oil? Just a higher risk of contamination build up once the oil leaves the grease. Now if you’re going to build a gun and put in an armory for 100 years like the fucking Russians? Yeah. Pack that mother fucker with grease. Actual use? Most applications... oil. Clean your gun. Save some time and mess. Way lubricants are mostly used in metal working applications. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for like 50 buck or less. Edit: There are definitely uses of grease in certain firearms. The M1 garand. The 1911. As they were designed with it in mind. You can certainly use oil on them too. Just a note. This is not a blanket statement of “grease bad. Oil good.” Use your knoggin. Think a bit about the mechanical action at hand. Both can work. Grease can certainly work in an AR. But, I propose the question of why? Even more, why bother with his mixture? For what he spent there he could just buy a semi fluid grease. Edit 2: To the topic of lithium and corrosion resistance. It’s why most marine greases are calcium based. Link to a good article again, as I’m too tired to write it out. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29658/multi-purpose-grease Point #2 is where I have a hard time following you. You have detailed knowledge of hundreds or thousands of different oils, so I'm sure there are varieties that come to mind for you with better properties than the oils I'm thinking of, but generally speaking, the oils I'm aware of as a consumer don't stay where I want them to nearly as well as greases do. Oils run/drain away while greases don't. If I'm going to pull a gun out of the safe, take it to the range, clean it, and put it away, then sure... some fresh oil on the way in and out of the safe makes sense. But what about a gun that's going to sit for weeks, months, or even years in a just in case role? I shouldn't have to say this, but after watching this video, I think I should also clarify... I don't "pack" anything with grease like he does the cam pin area, and I apply it in a fairly thin coat, not all gloppy and sloppy. Point 2 was under the assumption the firearm would be used or you’re lubricating a firearm to be used shortly after. Not mid to long term storage. Grease will sling like oil after the firearm is used. Thus my comment of not stay in place. If you’re planning to have it sit for months? Sure wipe it down with a thin layer of grease. You’ll have some oil bleed out, but the grease shouldn’t get too crusty in that time period. If you’re planning on storing it for years without use or any maintenance and cleaning done? You’ll still have a puddle of oil from the grease, as the bleed out of oil will happen in most greases. There are some specialty storage greases we can talk about. But really, if a gun sits for a long period, I’ll call it 8+ months, you should throw some fresh oil on it. (Or grease!) before use. When you say "slings," are you talking about lubricant flying off the applied surface due to inertia? Is there a flavor of grease commonly available at automotive/hardware stores you think would be more appropriate? Yes, when the product flys off. Sling lubrication is used in like the rear axle of a car or truck. The gear goes through an oil bath, it’s then carried by the gear with the excess being sling’d off in the process. Not really any hardware store grease that I could highly recommend. As you’ll run into a normal lithium / lithium complex grease. Lubriplate SFL-0 has been the standard for the gun industry for 70-80 years essentially. TW25 is another standard for gun greases. SFL-0 is an aluminum complex grease, which is pretty unique. Highly water resistant with a good temperature range. Aluminum complex greases are traditionally used in the food industry. SFL-0 is food grade. So a fairly safe grease too for you to be around. Let alone the properties of it. TW25 is a calcium grease. Has its own benefits of not dropping oil fast. Lubriplate 130A is the m1 garand grease. It’s another calcium grease. It’s pretty heavy, so they also make the 130AA. Which is a #1 and it would do well in colder temps. I find myself reminded of the video where Gale Banks made a transparent diff cover to explain cooling/lubrication... I'm not sure a pistol slide or a rifle bolt carrier fits that description, though. I want to take your parts store challenge, and get your opinion on a couple products. I checked Napa, Advanced, O'Reilly, and Auto Zone... Most of them have Lucas Marine Grease listed as either in stock or same day available from the parts truck. It looks like one of the calcium based products you described above. https://lucasoil.com/products/grease/marine-grease The other is something called Green Grease. All of the parts stores carry it. The product description is that it's a "waterproof synthetic polymer" grease, but nothing I'm seeing says what the base is. https://www.greengrease.net/PDF/GreenGease.pdf Thoughts on stuff like this? 1. You and I thought about the same thing. I brought that up as the concept of what sling lubrication should be. The oil splashed up, then drips back down into the holding area, only to be cycled back up. In a firearm, the slinging effect just means it’s gone. Could be somewhere good like splashing into the buffer tube. Or could be blown out onto your cheek through the charging handle. Or maybe just into the chamber and burned off. Or yeeted into the atmosphere out of the ejection port. Who knows! It’s not a controlled situation like a rear axle, where sling lubrication works properly. 2. The Lucas marine would work. Probably a tad bit heavy but would certainly work for room temperature ranges down to freezing. Below 0f would be a different story. 3. The green grease is sorta regarded as a marketing myth. They claim it’s a “multi soap base”. So lithium and calcium. They also say it’s “compatible with all greases.” Which... is a lie. So stick with the Lucas marine. |
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Quoted: Prefacing my next statements: I’m just some asshole on the internet putting up a debate against some, apparently efamous YouTuber. Take my statements for what they’re worth. That being said, sure. There’s a situation like that where a dab of grease might be better than an off the shelf oil. My counter argument is I use regular 5w30 right now. I’ve never had a failure in that area or experienced pre-mature wear. So why it might not sling off in that exact area, is there any benefit of using a grease there? Maybe. Maybe not. My entire jist of my posts should be taken as: firearms are simple to lube. Don’t over think it. There’s no magic sauce or secret recipe for firearms lubricants. Just use something. Regularly. Probably something cheap. View Quote I'm on board with your general message. I also think the guy in the video is way overdoing it. |
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RTFM
TM 9-1005-249-10 Chapter 3 Section 1 Subsection A & B A. Lighty Lubricate. A film of oil barely visible to the eye. B. Generously Lubricate. Heavy enough so that it can be spread with the finger. Do it by the book, and if you still have problems, it ain't with the lube. FWIW, I was Field Artillery, so we had to clean and maintain everything from 155mm cannons to pistols. We got our CLP in gallon jugs, and everything was lubricated by the book. Never had any problems. Sure, we would get a new Lt that wanted "white glove" clean, he was shown that manual and respectfully told to go away. And to those that hate to clean your weapons, imagine pushing a coffee can size brush down 17 feet of barrel to get it squeaky clean. Takes 5 guys all morning, a few gallons of CLP and a whole trash bag of old t shirts. |
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View Quote This video has got to just be click bait right? Early April fools? |
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Quoted: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/92/4f/3a/924f3ad58f4928e57c8ff41387d01d52.jpg https://external-preview.redd.it/Yk1_n36DEORLv-yAgwrtgPzLysrgzjQXPSSe_aTwL9Q.jpg?auto=webp&s=369a6c16ceacfa19747edea5fb2e56044e32f6aa View Quote For the most part I stick with CLP and light machine oil. Regular inspection and maintenance and reapplication when in heavy use. Boom done. On a side note a retired ranger (scrolled) buddy of mine said if he was going to take over the world just give him an AR, Eotech, and a gallon of CLP and he'll get it done. |
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I am also a camera nut, and I put a drop of CLP on a Q-tip, and apply it to the filter threads of my camera filters, it screws on much smoother, like that of the more expensive German-made B&W filters but without the price.
I tried one of those really expensive B&W filters and they thread on my lense's filter mount silky smooth. The smoothness of the B&W filters was not worth the extra money paid because I rarely change filters on my camera. |
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