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Posted: 8/30/2017 9:53:47 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good thing too. We are nearly out of 17's, stock is looking pretty skinny. Few oddball builds on the lot but the popular models are long gone. Huh. And I own page 2. 
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Posted: 8/30/2017 9:54:54 AM EDT
[#2]
F*ck him. New auto sales have dropped off dramatically as the effect of sub-prime auto lending is tapped out. He's hurting for sales.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 10:07:29 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dumb question- what are the most and least popular configurations? Huh. And I own page 2. 4X4 loaded. Least ? V-6 double cab with rubber guts and a floor shift transfer case. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 10:38:58 AM EDT
[#4]
Bought a 2017 F-250 Lariat three months ago. For what it's worth...
My truck stickered at $69K and change. My target price was $59K, and I never got there (paid $60,500, which I was pretty happy with). We walked away leaving a "this is my price" offer three times, and it never moved them an inch under $60K. And that included the end-of-month coming and going. They did go above and beyond to get me every single discount Ford offered. Part of that involved financing through Ford, even though they knew (because I told them) I intended to refinance it two days later through another lender. Getting that signature on the initial Ford financing paperwork was important to them for reasons I still don't understand. Okay, so we're sitting in the finance guy's office while he's finalizing the paperwork, and I asked him, "Just out of curiosity, now that the deal is done, how did we do?" (disclaimer... I fully understand he was under no obligation to tell me the truth and may have lied through his teeth). He told me the dealership made four or five hundred dollars, but that wasn't what mattered to them. He said Ford rewarded the dealership based on volume and customer satisfaction, and the absolute emphasis was the "customer experience" we reported to Ford. May be a load of horseshit, but it was...unexpected. Disappointed Ford didn't offer a forest green...we ended up going with ruby red. I've owned multiple, beautiful BMWs over the years, and I've never gotten so many comments on a vehicle as I have with this truck. Might be because it's farm country...don't know. An old boy in overalls came over to me at the car wash last week and said, "Durned if Ford didn't hit a home run with this color." It's growing on me 
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Posted: 8/30/2017 10:48:13 AM EDT
[#5]
It's actually really simple;
If it's on the lot it's either gonna sell for invoice or it's got an additional dealer markup over MSRP and they're trying to hit a home run on a limited model. Cars on the lot only sell for MSRP to suckers. Cars that sell for MSRP are the limited cars not worthy of an ADM that people typically order themselves. Your F350 on the lot can probably be had for invoice minus the current manufacturer incentives. Ya, the dealer will make a bit in dealer holdback and sometimes you can cut into this a bit...I usually tell them I'll give them invoice minus whatever their silly paperwork fee is and it works about 90% of the time. For some reason they always keep the fee on there but reduce the selling price. This whole nonsense about offering "X" where "X" is just some random number is ridiculous. Use the internet, find out the current manufacturer incentives and the invoice pricing and bring in the paperwork to the dealer so that they know you did your research and you're not a random idiot. Offer that and you'll end up leaving with a pretty good deal that's fair to both parties and you won't have to worry about if you got screwed or not. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 10:52:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Getting that signature on the initial Ford financing paperwork was important to them for reasons I still don't understand. Okay, so we're sitting in the finance guy's office while he's finalizing the paperwork, and I asked him, "Just out of curiosity, now that the deal is done, how did we do?" (disclaimer... I fully understand he was under no obligation to tell me the truth and may have lied through his teeth). He told me the dealership made four or five hundred dollars, but that wasn't what mattered to them. He said Ford rewarded the dealership based on volume and customer satisfaction, and the absolute emphasis was the "customer experience" we reported to Ford. May be a load of horseshit, but it was...unexpected. Nothing that you posted sounds fishy at all; in fact, it sounds accurate. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 10:52:40 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Looking at a 2017 f350 lariat. Msrp is $65,980 sell price is 59,779. I asked sales rep over phone if he would take 55,000 and he said price is not negotiable because of the msrp. This is my first time vehicle shopping. Everything is usually negotiable. Is he just being a hard ass or is 59,779 really the best they can do? Everything is negotiable Put yourself in his position. How many phone calls do they get a day from people sitting on their couch "thinking" about buying a truck.? Why would he bother to negotiate when you have no skin in the game? Car shopping needs to be done in person, that way at least the first guy you talk numbers with can run your credit and convince himself you could actually close a deal. You then beat up on that guy. NEVER fall in love wit anything until its paid for. Be ready to walk away. Do so if you have to. Once you get in the neighborhood, tell the guy for a final offer, and tell him youre going to shop tht offer. THEN you can call other dealers, identify the first dealer, and tell them to beat the deal. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 10:57:12 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Everything is negotiable Put yourself in his position. How many phone calls do they get a day from people sitting on their couch "thinking" about buying a truck.? Why would he bother to negotiate when you have no skin in the game? Car shopping needs to be done in person, that way at least the first guy you talk numbers with can run your credit and convince himself you could actually close a deal. You then beat up on that guy. NEVER fall in love wit anything until its paid for. Be ready to walk away. Do so if you have to. Once you get in the neighborhood, tell the guy for a final offer, and tell him youre going to shop tht offer. THEN you can call other dealers, identify the first dealer, and tell them to beat the deal. ...and everything isn't negotiable. It's too easy to figure out what their costs are these days and go from there. They don't exist to lose money on a product any more than the Apple store does. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 10:57:21 AM EDT
[#9]
The last two super duty trucks and the last two suburbans that I've bought were all at a steal. I looked at the dealers' inventories around town, and found a couple of vehicles which had been on their lots for 3-6 months, and went in at month's end. If you're willing to give a little on color, you can usually find something they're trying to give away.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:00:32 AM EDT
[#10]
I got a new truck a few weeks ago and they already had it marked down on internet special from 47 to 39 and wouldn't budge anymore even if it meant not making the sale.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:05:32 AM EDT
[#11]
Number one rule OP. Dont come across as a ass. The people that tell you to say smart ass stuff... Don't do that. You will definitely not get the best deal. New car buying is easy. A fair price is Invoice minus incentives. Ask for that. Call a competing dealer and have them price you the same truck, if the price is the same (assuming msrp is the same), call the other dealer and offer a few hundred more stating the competitor offered that. See if they move. If not call the other dealer and do the same. Take the best price. If you have time throw a third dealer in the mix. You know you will get the best deal. Always ask for a few hundred. If the dealer wants your business then they will throw 300 at a deal to take it from a competitor. Ask me how I know
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:07:09 AM EDT
[#12]
Jesus H Christ this is NOT HARD. 90% of the posts in this thread are a "HOW TO GET FUCKED AT A DEALERSHIP" or "how to over complicate a simple process there by wasting a shit load of my time."
OP, this is how you get the best deal every single fucking time. I say this in every thread but it's the 100% truth coming from someone who spent years in the car business Step 1: find the EXACT effing car you want down to the smallest of options. Don't hem and haw, don't pine over getting the glowing cup holder, know EXACTLY what you fucking want BEFORE you dare step onto a car lot. Step 2: For a new car, email every dealer from that manufacturer in your town contacting their internet sales department. see if they have your car, and tell them you are willing to pay dealer invoice minus all incentives (look online and KNOW THE INCENTIVES THAT APPLY) and not one cent over. Which ever one agrees go see them. 2A: for a used car you'll need to do more research finding info on what cars like the one you want are selling for, we can discuss that later. You guys all think that dealers have all of this magic markup when in realty for most dealers every car that goes out the door is damn near a loss and they make it up in the service department. If you don't know the invoice price then YOU are the idiot. Step 3: if you are trading in a car, don't be a dumbass, know EXACTLY what your car is worth in WHOLESALE VALUE NOT RETAIL. Understand the difference? Step 4: if a new car take the manufacturer's low financinig. If used, go to a local credit union and get a LOWER rate, but for the love of god NEVER go into a dealership without having the financing already taken care of. Step 5: don't buy any extra shit in the finance office like warranties or any of that BS. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:10:25 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jesus H Christ this is NOT HARD. 90% of the posts in this thread are a "HOW TO GET FUCKED AT A DEALERSHIP" or "how to over complicate a simple process there by wasting a shit load of my time." OP, this is how you get the best deal every single fucking time. I say this in every thread but it's the 100% truth coming from someone who spent years in the car business Step 1: find the EXACT effing car you want down to the smallest of options. Don't hem and haw, don't pine over getting the glowing cup holder, know EXACTLY what you fucking want BEFORE you dare step onto a car lot. Step 2: For a new car, email every dealer from that manufacturer in your town contacting their internet sales department. see if they have your car, and tell them you are willing to pay dealer invoice minus all incentives (look online and KNOW THE INCENTIVES THAT APPLY) and not one cent over. Which ever one agrees go see them. 2A: for a used car you'll need to do more research finding info on what cars like the one you want are selling for, we can discuss that later. You guys all think that dealers have all of this magic markup when in realty for most dealers every car that goes out the door is damn near a loss and they make it up in the service department. If you don't know the invoice price then YOU are the idiot. Step 3: if you are trading in a car, don't be a dumbass, know EXACTLY what your car is worth in WHOLESALE VALUE NOT RETAIL. Understand the difference? Step 4: if a new car take the manufacturer's low financinig. If used, go to a local credit union and get a LOWER rate, but for the love of god NEVER go into a dealership without having the financing already taken care of. Step 5: don't buy any extra shit in the finance office like warranties or any of that BS. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:15:48 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jesus H Christ this is NOT HARD. 90% of the posts in this thread are a "HOW TO GET FUCKED AT A DEALERSHIP" or "how to over complicate a simple process there by wasting a shit load of my time." OP, this is how you get the best deal every single fucking time. I say this in every thread but it's the 100% truth coming from someone who spent years in the car business Step 1: find the EXACT effing car you want down to the smallest of options. Don't hem and haw, don't pine over getting the glowing cup holder, know EXACTLY what you fucking want BEFORE you dare step onto a car lot. Step 2: For a new car, email every dealer from that manufacturer in your town contacting their internet sales department. see if they have your car, and tell them you are willing to pay dealer invoice minus all incentives (look online and KNOW THE INCENTIVES THAT APPLY) and not one cent over. Which ever one agrees go see them. 2A: for a used car you'll need to do more research finding info on what cars like the one you want are selling for, we can discuss that later. You guys all think that dealers have all of this magic markup when in realty for most dealers every car that goes out the door is damn near a loss and they make it up in the service department. If you don't know the invoice price then YOU are the idiot. Step 3: if you are trading in a car, don't be a dumbass, know EXACTLY what your car is worth in WHOLESALE VALUE NOT RETAIL. Understand the difference? Step 4: if a new car take the manufacturer's low financinig. If used, go to a local credit union and get a LOWER rate, but for the love of god NEVER go into a dealership without having the financing already taken care of. Step 5: don't buy any extra shit in the finance office like warranties or any of that BS. 
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:38:13 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We get customers that try that tactic. " would you like to pay the difference on your credit card or your debit card ? " If not they are politely shown the door, negotiations are over bud. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Show up with a cashier's check made out to the dealer for $55k. I bet their song changes. My typical strategy is the lowball check and the rest in cash. I start with the check and negotiate from there. I usually get what I want. Only time I struck out was on a used Wrangler in great shape at a good price - they didn't budge. " would you like to pay the difference on your credit card or your debit card ? " If not they are politely shown the door, negotiations are over bud. People are so funny when it comes to buying cars. Spend 10 years in a dealership and see how you view the process |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:41:30 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How would one find out what the dealer invoice is? *asking for a friend* |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:42:07 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Number one rule OP. Dont come across as a ass. The people that tell you to say smart ass stuff... Don't do that. You will definitely not get the best deal. New car buying is easy. A fair price is Invoice minus incentives. Ask for that. Call a competing dealer and have them price you the same truck, if the price is the same (assuming msrp is the same), call the other dealer and offer a few hundred more stating the competitor offered that. See if they move. If not call the other dealer and do the same. Take the best price. If you have time throw a third dealer in the mix. You know you will get the best deal. Always ask for a few hundred. If the dealer wants your business then they will throw 300 at a deal to take it from a competitor. Ask me how I know |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:52:36 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wrong. You're almost always better off negotiating a car deal from the couch. The majority of people that get good deals have done their homework. People that come in directly to the lot are typically either tire kickers or people that don't have a clue that the dealer tries to club over the head. ...and everything isn't negotiable. It's too easy to figure out what their costs are these days and go from there. They don't exist to lose money on a product any more than the Apple store does. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Everything is negotiable Put yourself in his position. How many phone calls do they get a day from people sitting on their couch "thinking" about buying a truck.? Why would he bother to negotiate when you have no skin in the game? Car shopping needs to be done in person, that way at least the first guy you talk numbers with can run your credit and convince himself you could actually close a deal. You then beat up on that guy. NEVER fall in love wit anything until its paid for. Be ready to walk away. Do so if you have to. Once you get in the neighborhood, tell the guy for a final offer, and tell him youre going to shop tht offer. THEN you can call other dealers, identify the first dealer, and tell them to beat the deal. ...and everything isn't negotiable. It's too easy to figure out what their costs are these days and go from there. They don't exist to lose money on a product any more than the Apple store does. Youre the one who is "wrong". How is calling on the phone with information "better" than showing up at a dealer with that same information? Answer, it isnt. There is zero advantage to calling over showing up, and youve created a false dichotomy, why is it given that if someone shows up they havent dont their homework? It isnt. Your declaration that "most" people who go in are ignorant is a stat pulled directly out of your ass. Also, everything IS negotiable. You might not get the number you want, but there is room for negotiation. I didnt say you can negotiate a price where they lose money, i said everything is negotiable. Words have meaning. You are conflating process with a given result. Yes, the dealer needs to make money, and wont agree to a number that loses him money, but the price he sets is never ever the least amout they can take to make money. Everything is negotible. Period. Vehicles are never priced at the bottom line, we need this to not lose money price, so your rudimentsry economics "lesson" is pedantic at best. Thanks for playing, though. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 11:54:59 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How would one find out what the dealer invoice is? *asking for a friend* |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 12:04:10 PM EDT
[#20]
Also, check the invoice just for a reference. They dealers get charge back or hold back where the manufacturer pays them for the number of units sold. They can sell for invoice and make money. Also check for rebates, good luck
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Posted: 8/30/2017 1:33:19 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jesus H Christ this is NOT HARD. 90% of the posts in this thread are a "HOW TO GET FUCKED AT A DEALERSHIP" or "how to over complicate a simple process there by wasting a shit load of my time." OP, this is how you get the best deal every single fucking time. I say this in every thread but it's the 100% truth coming from someone who spent years in the car business Step 1: find the EXACT effing car you want down to the smallest of options. Don't hem and haw, don't pine over getting the glowing cup holder, know EXACTLY what you fucking want BEFORE you dare step onto a car lot. Step 2: For a new car, email every dealer from that manufacturer in your town contacting their internet sales department. see if they have your car, and tell them you are willing to pay dealer invoice minus all incentives (look online and KNOW THE INCENTIVES THAT APPLY) and not one cent over. Which ever one agrees go see them. 2A: for a used car you'll need to do more research finding info on what cars like the one you want are selling for, we can discuss that later. You guys all think that dealers have all of this magic markup when in realty for most dealers every car that goes out the door is damn near a loss and they make it up in the service department. If you don't know the invoice price then YOU are the idiot. Step 3: if you are trading in a car, don't be a dumbass, know EXACTLY what your car is worth in WHOLESALE VALUE NOT RETAIL. Understand the difference? Step 4: if a new car take the manufacturer's low financinig. If used, go to a local credit union and get a LOWER rate, but for the love of god NEVER go into a dealership without having the financing already taken care of. Step 5: don't buy any extra shit in the finance office like warranties or any of that BS. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 1:45:02 PM EDT
[#22]
Last time I did this, I listed the exact codes, specific option codes - and faxed to several large dealers. All quotes were for the exact same product. The one with the best price was a 4-hour drive - but worth it.
I ended up with a special order truck built exactly as I wanted at the best price Oh, and start this a week from the end of the month. They told me the timing was right to add my sale for the dealerships volume. It was a win-win. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 1:46:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Buy 100 shares of Ford and get X plan pricing. Save on all the leg work, get your car and earn a 5% dividend.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 1:48:30 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually buying the extended warranty can get you a lower interest rate often as its an incentive from the dealer. Then you just cancel it when you walk out. Then come back 3 months later wanting us to pay for a blown engine or transmission. They leave with their hair on fire. LOL |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:03:22 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
dealers get regional incentives and consumers can qualify for additional rebates it's not "ahuk ahuk im gonna offer dat dere 55k and take it or leave it merica" that only works with used vehicles And $55k on a $65k MSRP truck is very doable these days. Hell they are advertising $8.5k off MSRP up here on light duties. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:06:04 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Everything is negotiable, but don't do it over a phone. You are wasting your time and any salesman's time. Any clown can ask for a low price. Whether they get it or not, they might not be seriously shopping. Salespeople don't take phone call offers seriously for that reason, and if you were a car salesman, you wouldn't either. Try internet pricing. Talk to an internet salesperson at the dealership to negotiate a price. If you are getting a new vehicle and don't need to test drive it, might as well shop around if you are willing to drive to an out-of-town dealership. This is not a fishing expedition. You need to know what your buy price is before you walk in. Once the salesman figures out you dont know what that is, he is done dropping price (if he is worth anything as a salesman). |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:11:47 PM EDT
[#27]
This weekend should be a good one to haggle. I got an email from one Ford dealership last night saying the need to sell 30 new vehicles by Sept 5th and will be making crazy deals.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:13:41 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Show up with a cashier's check made out to the dealer for $55k. I bet their song changes. My typical strategy is the lowball check and the rest in cash. I start with the check and negotiate from there. I usually get what I want. Only time I struck out was on a used Wrangler in great shape at a good price - they didn't budge.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:18:58 PM EDT
[#29]
Lol @ truck prices.....can't believe people are paying these outrageous prices
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:19:42 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This weekend should be a good one to haggle. I got an email from one Ford dealership last night saying the need to sell 30 new vehicles by Sept 5th and will be making crazy deals. Gets people in the door and then we slay them. It's nothing new. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:23:33 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We do that every weekend. Gets people in the door and then we slay them. It's nothing new. What monthly payment are you most comfortable with? The dealer wanders off to the manager's office where they bullshit about hookers and blow and plug-in information into a readily available finance calculator that can even be pulled up on a smart phone and find ways of hiding tens of thousands of dollars spread out over several years of financing. I don't really disapproval dealer tactics because people are so fucking dumb. This bullshit thing added to the price of the car only adds $20 per monthly payment! Only $20 spread out over 72 monthly payments.
If car dealers were more honest and less predatory, I would probably buy a new car every other year, but instead I just run them into the ground and wander in every seven or eight years. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:24:56 PM EDT
[#32]
Purchasing a Home and Automobile should be a 2 semester class in high school.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:25:07 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
dealers get regional incentives and consumers can qualify for additional rebates it's not 
that only works with used vehicles
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:26:38 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We do that every weekend. Gets people in the door and then we slay them. It's nothing new. It reminds me to go wash it. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:27:18 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually buying the extended warranty can get you a lower interest rate often as its an incentive from the dealer. Then you just cancel it when you walk out. You guys have to understand, while this industry is dirty and has been since the dawn of time, there are still limits to what can be done. I see all this talk about "I'll offer them 10 grand less and then walk." Again, YOU are the one that is causing the problem as YOU are NOT an educated buyer, you are the one keeping the haggling game alive in 2017. You should know what the price should be BEFORE you walk in as trust me doing it the dumbass way I mentioned above means you still got FUCKED. Stop wasting everyone's time and stop perpetuating the "car salesman historical tactics" by not being educated. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:28:47 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I like the one that says the dealership is very interested in my used vehicle because they are in such high demand. It reminds me to go wash it. But that was an extremely rare and legitimate case and his offer was really good, but I didn't want to sell it. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:36:22 PM EDT
[#37]
We mostly buy Chevy pickups at work, with some Fords (F350) and Nissans (Titans).
We never pay more than $500 below invoice (roughly 1/2 of the holdback) - plus we get all incentives. Recently bought an Armada for $4000 below invoice ($500 + $3500 in incentives). If your paying more than this you're making a salesman very happy. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:43:14 PM EDT
[#38]
There's $2500 in rebate right now, and about $4500 in markup. I work for a ford dealer, hell I can send you invoice if you send me the vin.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:47:36 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
<quote snipped> If car dealers were more honest and less predatory, I would probably buy a new car every other year, but instead I just run them into the ground and wander in every seven or eight years. For the life of me I dont know why in 2017 cars are still sold this way. Shut down the sales parts of dealerships - let them stay in business as servicing and parts centers. They might keep a few vehicles owned by the manufacture on site for test drives or the manufacturers could handle that offsite. The rest of the buying process would be done online. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:55:47 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We mostly buy Chevy pickups at work, with some Fords (F350) and Nissans (Titans). We never pay more than $500 below invoice (roughly 1/2 of the holdback) - plus we get all incentives. Recently bought an Armada for $4000 below invoice ($500 + $3500 in incentives). If your paying more than this you're making a salesman very happy. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:57:14 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We do that every weekend. Gets people in the door and then we slay them. It's nothing new. 
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Posted: 8/30/2017 2:58:22 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For the life of me I dont know why in 2017 cars are still sold this way. Shut down the sales parts of dealerships - let them stay in business as servicing and parts centers. They might keep a few vehicles owned by the manufacture on site for test drives or the manufacturers could handle that offsite. The rest of the buying process would be done online. Why do new car dealerships still exist? Because the govt says so. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:02:24 PM EDT
[#43]
Try a no-haggle, volume dealership where the sales and finance people don't work off commission if you want the bottom line price right up front. Check their website and unlock the sales price.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:10:30 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is not every weekend though, this is Labor Day weekend. You all need to get them old 17s off the lot. Most folks with the wherewithal to purchase a new vehicle go out of town to get every ounce of Summer in that they can. We do more business through the week, you find more and more buyers would rather sneak out of work during the week than waste their precious weekend time buying a car or truck. Saturdays in the Summer are typically dead and void of deep pocket buyers but it does flush sub-prime buyers and broke test pilots out of the woodwork. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:14:10 PM EDT
[#45]
Tell him you will pay invoice and ask to see the invoice. The invoice will break down the price of the base vehicle and will include line by line the additions to that truck and the invoice cost and the resale cost of that addition. It will also include the HOLDBACK.
Holdback is what Ford will pay to the dealer to sell the truck. Any profit the dealer can make from you is good for the dealer but bad for you. If you can buy the truck at invoice, that is good. The dealer makes a profit from Ford. Most dealers will not cut into the holdback to sell a truck. If it was a difficult to sell truck that has been on the lot for months, they may cut into holdback just to get rid of it. Invoice is a good deal. A difficult truck to sell might be one that has a terrible color, no A/C, big time wrong features, etc. Otherwise, your truck is just another truck for sale and the dealer can easily replace it. Good luck. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:14:13 PM EDT
[#46]
When did sell take the place of sale?
Negotiating in person might get you better results. |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:17:22 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We never have long weekend sales in the Summer. Most folks with the wherewithal to purchase a new vehicle go out of town to get every ounce of Summer in that they can. We do more business through the week, you find more and more buyers would rather sneak out of work during the week than waste their precious weekend time buying a car or truck. Saturdays in the Summer are typically dead and void of deep pocket buyers but it does flush sub-prime buyers and broke test pilots out of the woodwork. Agreed, about the weekday thing, because that's what I do. I just said weekend, because I assumed most others are stuck in front of a lathe all weekday. But anytime from now through the time the last of the '17s are sold off should be good for trying to score a perceived "deal." |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:24:27 PM EDT
[#48]
Hey OP, if you can get me the VIN to the truck your looking at, I can get the invoice price for you. You can just pm me the VIN if you prefer.
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:31:34 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jesus H Christ this is NOT HARD. 90% of the posts in this thread are a "HOW TO GET FUCKED AT A DEALERSHIP" or "how to over complicate a simple process there by wasting a shit load of my time." OP, this is how you get the best deal every single fucking time. I say this in every thread but it's the 100% truth coming from someone who spent years in the car business Step 1: find the EXACT effing car you want down to the smallest of options. Don't hem and haw, don't pine over getting the glowing cup holder, know EXACTLY what you fucking want BEFORE you dare step onto a car lot. Step 2: For a new car, email every dealer from that manufacturer in your town contacting their internet sales department. see if they have your car, and tell them you are willing to pay dealer invoice minus all incentives (look online and KNOW THE INCENTIVES THAT APPLY) and not one cent over. Which ever one agrees go see them. 2A: for a used car you'll need to do more research finding info on what cars like the one you want are selling for, we can discuss that later. You guys all think that dealers have all of this magic markup when in realty for most dealers every car that goes out the door is damn near a loss and they make it up in the service department. If you don't know the invoice price then YOU are the idiot. Step 3: if you are trading in a car, don't be a dumbass, know EXACTLY what your car is worth in WHOLESALE VALUE NOT RETAIL. Understand the difference? Step 4: if a new car take the manufacturer's low financinig. If used, go to a local credit union and get a LOWER rate, but for the love of god NEVER go into a dealership without having the financing already taken care of. Step 5: don't buy any extra shit in the finance office like warranties or any of that BS. 
Too bad your words will fall mostly onto deaf ears. At least we have the pleasure of watching new car customers tormenting themselves mentally. I'll be happy if I never walk into a franchise dealership again. the average gravel lot customer is much easier to deal with.... |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 3:40:09 PM EDT
[#50]
I finally had a positive car buying experience. Was looking for a 2017 Chevy Silverado crew cab 4WD at the end of last year. Searched online (autotrader, ebay, browsing local inventory for chevy dealerships) for about 2-3 weeks and found a dealership with a truck finally priced right.
They were asking 37k and change for a blue 2017 LT Chevy Silver crew cab with the allstar package, towing, Z71 package. After looking at the inventory at 2 local dealerships; I called the one the I work closest to. Spoke with the internet guy and gave them the link for the competing dealership. Told him I wanted the one truck on his lot without the Z71 package and I was hoping he could beat the price. I was interested in buying in the next 2 days, and the other dealership said they would drive the truck down to me (4 hours away). He called me with a counter; still higher than the other dealership and I politely turned him down. Said I would contact the other dealership tomorrow and have them deliver. He backtracked a little and said he had to talk with his manager again, blah blah blah. He called me back with another offer that beat the other dealership. I think it was 10k under sticker, can't be sure on invoice. Can send VIN# to anyone who wants to check further into it. I felt like not stepping foot into the dealership was the best way I've ever bought a car. Price was set and all I had to do was sign the paperwork when I came in. No more of the pressure from the sales manager coming over after I wouldn't budge on price. Hopefully, I can do the same for when we buy my wife a new car next time. |
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