User Panel
Quoted: What is your opinion on Moly greases? Pros? Cons? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Yep. Polyurea Greases are awesome I will say. What is your opinion on Moly greases? Pros? Cons? Depends on the application. Excavator running a jackhammer? Underground mining machine? Big front end loader loading line stone out? Absolutely needed. For the ball joints on your 1985 Chevy front end? Not needed. For the U joint on your tractor? Not needed. |
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I use grease rarely on firearms ; only when there is a heavy bearing surface like mu O/U shotguns where the barrel lugs meet the locking lug. Then it's red grease from the grease gun.
Otherwise it's oil, usually leftover Rotella Syn from changing diesel oil. |
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Got me some Mystik JT6 HT grease on the recommendation of Foxtrot08, but the cartridges were only by the case (I looked online not locally I admit). I got a tube of Valvoline Cerulean for the grease gun. I got a tube of Mystik JT6 SHD460 grease for a few applications. I'm stocked for life basically.
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I don't have any equipment that needs much grease, except for the occasional drop on a gun, and various tractor parts. So it really doesn't matter for me.
Having said that, I bought some blue marine grease to use in a bullet-lube recipe and several years later still have several tubes of it left, and not a drop of oil has leaked out. The lucas RnT that I bought for me grease gun - when I needed it to pump a stuck bullet out of a muzzleloader barrel - got spilled onto a piece of plastic (the gas tank for my generator) and now 3 months later there's a red oily sheen across it around where I left the glob of grease. This tells me the lucas grease might tend to dry out under pressure? |
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Ok, actual question.
whats the sheds life on this stuff. Lots of it sitting in my garage for years (7?). can I sell it for cheap in hood faith? Attached File |
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Aeroshell, because it's what is laying around from when I had an airplane.
Lucas Red N Tacky is good too. I use that on my shotgun. |
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I have an old tube of NAPA White Lithium grease and a tube of Super Lube grease on my bench. I have no idea what's loaded in the grease gun in the garage.
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Quoted: which is..... wait for it....... not the average joe stuff. a half million in tools is maybe different. i use lucas RnT cause I can buy it anywhere and don't have to worry about what I used last time since it's always available. View Quote Literally a general purpose grease, lithium complex, decent wash out resistance. Nothing special. Its the Kluber and THK grease that will put you in the pour haus. 2 or 300 bucks for a tube! But i could buy cases of that cheaper than a new ball screw or set of rails...so.. |
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Quoted: I would bet more people buy and use lucas than anything else. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: The average Joe stuff was the Shell gadus. Literally a general purpose grease, lithium complex, decent wash out resistance. Nothing special. I would bet more people buy and use lucas than anything else. On the farm if I don't have a tube of the shell stuff I borrowed from the shop I run the mystic. Its in the same aisle at tractor supply and isn't any more expensive. |
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I did google it after he said to use it. I noticed TS carries it. So that's simple enough for me.
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Quoted: I would bet more people buy and use lucas than anything else. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: The average Joe stuff was the Shell gadus. Literally a general purpose grease, lithium complex, decent wash out resistance. Nothing special. I would bet more people buy and use lucas than anything else. You would probably be wrong. |
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Quoted: watch it now....Foxtrot08 is kinda meh on my Shell stuff..but lucas gets him all frothy On the farm if I don't have a tube of the shell stuff I borrowed from the shop I run the mystic. Its in the same aisle at tractor supply and isn't any more expensive. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The average Joe stuff was the Shell gadus. Literally a general purpose grease, lithium complex, decent wash out resistance. Nothing special. I would bet more people buy and use lucas than anything else. On the farm if I don't have a tube of the shell stuff I borrowed from the shop I run the mystic. Its in the same aisle at tractor supply and isn't any more expensive. Shell doesn’t make their own grease. I know who makes shells grease. And a lot about them.... for a lot of reasons. So I’ll be pretty quiet on shells grease before I shoot myself in the foot. |
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I use synthetic brake grease because I have it at work and it works well on guns.
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Quoted: Ok, actual question. whats the sheds life on this stuff. Lots of it sitting in my garage for years (7?). can I sell it for cheap in hood faith? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/401406/E634ED29-8CB3-4F7F-BF8D-5F9AD8030A74_jpe-1476143.JPG View Quote Additives probably are separating after 7 years in a garage. Especially transmission fluids. We try to just dump anything over 3 years old that is warehoused. If you want to get rid of it, I mean... I’m not sure it’s worth anything. |
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Extreme Weapons Grease on guns.
I bought a jar about 10-15 years ago and it works. My great grandchildren will use that same little jar. |
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Quoted: Keeping machine tools that cost more than my house happy and accurate. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: People love to obsess over this stuff. Im curious on the science at times, but what is it the average joe is doing that requires some high end lubricant. That would fall outside of average joe usage. For most equipment that needs grease or oil, almost anything will work fine, as long as you use it. I doubt most guns care too much about what oil or grease they get, as long as it's there, same with tractors, mowers, cars, etc. |
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The red lithium in my grease gun. Think it's sta lube.
ETA: For all my handgun slides I use molykote gn assembly paste from Dow Corning. Glock uses what appears to be copper anti seize, I'm guessing for the soft metal solids. |
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Quoted: That would fall outside of average joe usage. For most equipment that needs grease or oil, almost anything will work fine, as long as you use it. I doubt most guns care too much about what oil or grease they get, as long as it's there, same with tractors, mowers, cars, etc. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: People love to obsess over this stuff. Im curious on the science at times, but what is it the average joe is doing that requires some high end lubricant. That would fall outside of average joe usage. For most equipment that needs grease or oil, almost anything will work fine, as long as you use it. I doubt most guns care too much about what oil or grease they get, as long as it's there, same with tractors, mowers, cars, etc. Guns are essentially the worst application to view lubrication in. 1. Guns are a sliding / way movement. Not a bearing movement. 2. Guns rarely need grease over all. Oil works fine. Let alone finishes and machining technology has come a long way. Which reduces the need for lubrication. 3. See my post about failures in grease. People who have posted in this thread, I can predict premature wear on what they posted “is fine”. Simply by the type of grease they use and the application. But when it fails, they’ll just chalk it up to age / them / whatever. |
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Quoted: Depends on the application. Excavator running a jackhammer? Underground mining machine? Big front end loader loading line stone out? Absolutely needed. For the ball joints on your 1985 Chevy front end? Not needed. For the U joint on your tractor? Not needed. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yep. Polyurea Greases are awesome I will say. What is your opinion on Moly greases? Pros? Cons? Depends on the application. Excavator running a jackhammer? Underground mining machine? Big front end loader loading line stone out? Absolutely needed. For the ball joints on your 1985 Chevy front end? Not needed. For the U joint on your tractor? Not needed. I like bringing a howitzer to a knife flight. |
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Quoted: I like bringing a howitzer to a knife flight. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yep. Polyurea Greases are awesome I will say. What is your opinion on Moly greases? Pros? Cons? Depends on the application. Excavator running a jackhammer? Underground mining machine? Big front end loader loading line stone out? Absolutely needed. For the ball joints on your 1985 Chevy front end? Not needed. For the U joint on your tractor? Not needed. I like bringing a howitzer to a knife flight. Moly can be counter productive in high speed applications. It’s a barrier lubricant. Using it in a needle bearing application or high speed bearings, you can cause premature wear. |
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That's probably a fair statement, I am no expert on the matter. Just personal experiences. Only failures I have actually had are dry ones where a seal failed.
seems like people love to talk $50 items when $5 items are available. i guess that's where my usual gripe is. The stuff you mentioned is like $1 more. I can accept that pretty easily. |
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Quoted: That's probably a fair statement, I am no expert on the matter. Just personal experiences. Only failures I have actually had are dry ones where a seal failed. seems like people love to talk $50 items when $5 items are available. i guess that's where my usual gripe is. The stuff you mentioned is like $1 more. I can accept that pretty easily. View Quote I could easily recommend some off the wall super duper full synthetic pao Kluber grease that is $700 a tube and the best wonder fix all grease once forever thing. But it’s not worth it. Literally if you bought 10 packs from a distributor (assuming you regularly use grease a 10 pack doesn’t last long.) you’re talking, maybe $5-7 a tube? Edit: Just looked in our system. 10 pack of Mystik JT6 HT EP 2 normally sells for ~$30 depending on your price bracket. So $3 a tube. Phillips 66 MultiPlex 600 - which is equal to Mystik JT6, just not as widely distributed - is around ~$30 a 10 pack too. P66 Multiplex FS 220 (for those that want a Full synthetic) - ~$60 a 10 pack. But I've personally had some issues with oil dropping out of this. I kind of like the heavier base oils of the above two better. But, full synthetics are generally better in a lot of cases. |
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Quoted: Moly can be counter productive in high speed applications. It’s a barrier lubricant. Using it in a needle bearing application or high speed bearings, you can cause premature wear. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yep. Polyurea Greases are awesome I will say. What is your opinion on Moly greases? Pros? Cons? Depends on the application. Excavator running a jackhammer? Underground mining machine? Big front end loader loading line stone out? Absolutely needed. For the ball joints on your 1985 Chevy front end? Not needed. For the U joint on your tractor? Not needed. I like bringing a howitzer to a knife flight. Moly can be counter productive in high speed applications. It’s a barrier lubricant. Using it in a needle bearing application or high speed bearings, you can cause premature wear. Ah. Got it. |
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Quoted: Guns are essentially the worst application to view lubrication in. 1. Guns are a sliding / way movement. Not a bearing movement. 2. Guns rarely need grease over all. Oil works fine. Let alone finishes and machining technology has come a long way. Which reduces the need for lubrication. 3. See my post about failures in grease. People who have posted in this thread, I can predict premature wear on what they posted “is fine”. Simply by the type of grease they use and the application. But when it fails, they’ll just chalk it up to age / them / whatever. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: People love to obsess over this stuff. Im curious on the science at times, but what is it the average joe is doing that requires some high end lubricant. That would fall outside of average joe usage. For most equipment that needs grease or oil, almost anything will work fine, as long as you use it. I doubt most guns care too much about what oil or grease they get, as long as it's there, same with tractors, mowers, cars, etc. Guns are essentially the worst application to view lubrication in. 1. Guns are a sliding / way movement. Not a bearing movement. 2. Guns rarely need grease over all. Oil works fine. Let alone finishes and machining technology has come a long way. Which reduces the need for lubrication. 3. See my post about failures in grease. People who have posted in this thread, I can predict premature wear on what they posted “is fine”. Simply by the type of grease they use and the application. But when it fails, they’ll just chalk it up to age / them / whatever. I get it, but in the field the biggest challenge is getting guys to even keep things lubed. Be it on the farm, or on the job site, very few people grease daily (or hourly sometimes) like they should be doing. Hell, just getting guys to check the engine oil each morning is hard enough. You can send the guys with the best grease on the market, but it's pointless if you can't get them to use it on the right schedule. I think I would take workers that keep the fittings full with cheap grease vs never getting the gun out with higher quality grease. Ideally though, you get both guys that keep things greased and use the right stuff for the application. |
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Quoted: I get it, but in the field the biggest challenge is getting guys to even keep things lubed. Be it on the farm, or on the job site, very few people grease daily (or hourly sometimes) like they should be doing. Hell, just getting guys to check the engine oil each morning is hard enough. You can send the guys with the best grease on the market, but it's pointless if you can't get them to use it on the right schedule. I think I would take workers that keep the fittings full with cheap grease vs never getting the gun out with higher quality grease. Ideally though, you get both guys that keep things greased and use the right stuff for the application. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: People love to obsess over this stuff. Im curious on the science at times, but what is it the average joe is doing that requires some high end lubricant. That would fall outside of average joe usage. For most equipment that needs grease or oil, almost anything will work fine, as long as you use it. I doubt most guns care too much about what oil or grease they get, as long as it's there, same with tractors, mowers, cars, etc. Guns are essentially the worst application to view lubrication in. 1. Guns are a sliding / way movement. Not a bearing movement. 2. Guns rarely need grease over all. Oil works fine. Let alone finishes and machining technology has come a long way. Which reduces the need for lubrication. 3. See my post about failures in grease. People who have posted in this thread, I can predict premature wear on what they posted “is fine”. Simply by the type of grease they use and the application. But when it fails, they’ll just chalk it up to age / them / whatever. I get it, but in the field the biggest challenge is getting guys to even keep things lubed. Be it on the farm, or on the job site, very few people grease daily (or hourly sometimes) like they should be doing. Hell, just getting guys to check the engine oil each morning is hard enough. You can send the guys with the best grease on the market, but it's pointless if you can't get them to use it on the right schedule. I think I would take workers that keep the fittings full with cheap grease vs never getting the gun out with higher quality grease. Ideally though, you get both guys that keep things greased and use the right stuff for the application. So use a better grease that is an extended life grease. Using a cheap grease and saying you will 'grease more' never happens. You just said it: It's difficult to get people to grease. So go with an extended life grease, stay on people to grease, when they forget, your equipment will still be alright. Again, if you bought right, you would SAVE MONEY, on just using the right product. What you're saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So I use a cheap grease, because people don't use it. What I'm saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So use the right product, so it has a snow balls chance in hell to still be there the next time dumb people grease. Oh, and it costs the same amount. Or less. |
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Food for thought...
These two products are fairly 'similar' to each other. Lucas Red'n'Tacky - EP2 https://lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_Red-Tacky-Grease.pdf vs Phillips 66 Multiplex 220 EP2 https://phillips66lubricants.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Multiplex_220.pdf You can see, that the Red'n'Tacky is not transparent - doesn't have the base oil viscosity listed in an easy to understand fashion. You can also see by the various tests that it's not a very good product. Now, step up to this... For about the same price: http://docs.mystiklubes.com/msds_pi/M20026.pdf Might as well get your money's worth. |
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Y’all also boggle my mind.
Arfcom GD: Mobil 1 this, full synthetic that, oil changes every 5000 miles, no expenses spared! Also GD: We use the cheapest grease possible and dont grease. |
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Quoted: So use a better grease that is an extended life grease. Using a cheap grease and saying you will 'grease more' never happens. You just said it: It's difficult to get people to grease. So go with an extended life grease, stay on people to grease, when they forget, your equipment will still be alright. Again, if you bought right, you would SAVE MONEY, on just using the right product. What you're saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So I use a cheap grease, because people don't use it. What I'm saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So use the right product, so it has a snow balls chance in hell to still be there the next time dumb people grease. Oh, and it costs the same amount. Or less. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: People love to obsess over this stuff. Im curious on the science at times, but what is it the average joe is doing that requires some high end lubricant. That would fall outside of average joe usage. For most equipment that needs grease or oil, almost anything will work fine, as long as you use it. I doubt most guns care too much about what oil or grease they get, as long as it's there, same with tractors, mowers, cars, etc. Guns are essentially the worst application to view lubrication in. 1. Guns are a sliding / way movement. Not a bearing movement. 2. Guns rarely need grease over all. Oil works fine. Let alone finishes and machining technology has come a long way. Which reduces the need for lubrication. 3. See my post about failures in grease. People who have posted in this thread, I can predict premature wear on what they posted “is fine”. Simply by the type of grease they use and the application. But when it fails, they’ll just chalk it up to age / them / whatever. I get it, but in the field the biggest challenge is getting guys to even keep things lubed. Be it on the farm, or on the job site, very few people grease daily (or hourly sometimes) like they should be doing. Hell, just getting guys to check the engine oil each morning is hard enough. You can send the guys with the best grease on the market, but it's pointless if you can't get them to use it on the right schedule. I think I would take workers that keep the fittings full with cheap grease vs never getting the gun out with higher quality grease. Ideally though, you get both guys that keep things greased and use the right stuff for the application. So use a better grease that is an extended life grease. Using a cheap grease and saying you will 'grease more' never happens. You just said it: It's difficult to get people to grease. So go with an extended life grease, stay on people to grease, when they forget, your equipment will still be alright. Again, if you bought right, you would SAVE MONEY, on just using the right product. What you're saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So I use a cheap grease, because people don't use it. What I'm saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So use the right product, so it has a snow balls chance in hell to still be there the next time dumb people grease. Oh, and it costs the same amount. Or less. I buy the cheap grease because I grease daily. If I was sending guys out on their own I would make sure they had better stuff. I'm also not out running a hammer daily either though, it's mostly just lift and carry work. |
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Quoted: I buy the cheap grease because I grease daily. If I was sending guys out on their own I would make sure they had better stuff. I'm also not out running a hammer daily either though, it's mostly just lift and carry work. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: People love to obsess over this stuff. Im curious on the science at times, but what is it the average joe is doing that requires some high end lubricant. That would fall outside of average joe usage. For most equipment that needs grease or oil, almost anything will work fine, as long as you use it. I doubt most guns care too much about what oil or grease they get, as long as it's there, same with tractors, mowers, cars, etc. Guns are essentially the worst application to view lubrication in. 1. Guns are a sliding / way movement. Not a bearing movement. 2. Guns rarely need grease over all. Oil works fine. Let alone finishes and machining technology has come a long way. Which reduces the need for lubrication. 3. See my post about failures in grease. People who have posted in this thread, I can predict premature wear on what they posted “is fine”. Simply by the type of grease they use and the application. But when it fails, they’ll just chalk it up to age / them / whatever. I get it, but in the field the biggest challenge is getting guys to even keep things lubed. Be it on the farm, or on the job site, very few people grease daily (or hourly sometimes) like they should be doing. Hell, just getting guys to check the engine oil each morning is hard enough. You can send the guys with the best grease on the market, but it's pointless if you can't get them to use it on the right schedule. I think I would take workers that keep the fittings full with cheap grease vs never getting the gun out with higher quality grease. Ideally though, you get both guys that keep things greased and use the right stuff for the application. So use a better grease that is an extended life grease. Using a cheap grease and saying you will 'grease more' never happens. You just said it: It's difficult to get people to grease. So go with an extended life grease, stay on people to grease, when they forget, your equipment will still be alright. Again, if you bought right, you would SAVE MONEY, on just using the right product. What you're saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So I use a cheap grease, because people don't use it. What I'm saying is this: People are dumb and don't grease. So use the right product, so it has a snow balls chance in hell to still be there the next time dumb people grease. Oh, and it costs the same amount. Or less. I buy the cheap grease because I grease daily. If I was sending guys out on their own I would make sure they had better stuff. I'm also not out running a hammer daily either though, it's mostly just lift and carry work. So my point still stands. Use a better grease. Spend the same amount of money. Have better protection. |
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No doubt there are better quality greases out there.
In my many decades of messing with mechanical stuff I have seen very few failures when there was lubrication present. The most failures are when there is lack of lubrication. Sure things wear out even when lubed. Alot quicker when not lubed. So I make sure that I grease my stuff and use a decent lube. Probably not the best but I don't buy the cheapest either. Bottom line is 1st to make sure you lube your stuff, a far distant second is getting the "best" out there. Middle of the road stuff is good enough for over 90% of the time. I have stuff that I haven't changed the oil on for years and grease maybe once a year. The last couple of times I have had to maintain or fix something on it have had nothing to due with lube. Stuff just wears out after 50 years of hard use. |
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Quoted: Y’all also boggle my mind. Arfcom GD: Mobil 1 this, full synthetic that, oil changes every 5000 miles, no expenses spared! Also GD: We use the cheapest grease possible and dont grease. View Quote @Foxtrot08 I don't know how you have the patience to post/reply in these threads all the time. But, many of us are grateful for it. Regarding moly and high speed applications; what about in the gear box of an angle grinder? Two bevel gears and a bronze bushing typically. The gear on the motor shaft sprins at about 20-30 thousand RPM, the other about 10k. Would a moly grease help, hinder, or neither help nor hinder? |
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Everyone in here not saying WD-40 is lying. I know this from the near consensus of idiots that think it’s a long term lubricant
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Quoted: @Foxtrot08 I don't know how you have the patience to post/reply in these threads all the time. But, many of us are grateful for it. Regarding moly and high speed applications; what about in the gear box of an angle grinder? Two bevel gears and a bronze bushing typically. The gear on the motor shaft sprins at about 20-30 thousand RPM, the other about 10k. Would a moly grease help, hinder, or neither help nor hinder? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Y’all also boggle my mind. Arfcom GD: Mobil 1 this, full synthetic that, oil changes every 5000 miles, no expenses spared! Also GD: We use the cheapest grease possible and dont grease. @Foxtrot08 I don't know how you have the patience to post/reply in these threads all the time. But, many of us are grateful for it. Regarding moly and high speed applications; what about in the gear box of an angle grinder? Two bevel gears and a bronze bushing typically. The gear on the motor shaft sprins at about 20-30 thousand RPM, the other about 10k. Would a moly grease help, hinder, or neither help nor hinder? Hinder. I would not use moly in a situation like that. Moly is for high shock applications. Moly can also not play well with golden metals. So I would avoid it. Edit To your first part. I smoke a lot of cigars. |
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Quoted: Hinder. I would not use moly in a situation like that. Moly is for high shock applications. Moly can also not play well with golden metals. So I would avoid it. Edit To your first part. I smoke a lot of cigars. View Quote I better go scrape and wipe out the hear box in my Bosch angle grinder then. JT6 HT #2 is acceptable I hope as that and Valvoline Cerulean is all I have. the JT6 SHD460 is a little too heavy and stiff I think. |
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Quoted: I better go scrape and wipe out the hear box in my Bosch angle grinder then. JT6 HT #2 is acceptable I hope as that and Valvoline Cerulean is all I have. the JT6 SHD460 is a little too heavy and stiff I think. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Hinder. I would not use moly in a situation like that. Moly is for high shock applications. Moly can also not play well with golden metals. So I would avoid it. Edit To your first part. I smoke a lot of cigars. I better go scrape and wipe out the hear box in my Bosch angle grinder then. JT6 HT #2 is acceptable I hope as that and Valvoline Cerulean is all I have. the JT6 SHD460 is a little too heavy and stiff I think. Out of those 3 choices for that application, I would pick the Valvoline Cerulean. It’s a lighter 320 base oil vs the JT6 600 base oil. Would probably do decent in high speed applications. They’re all lithium complex grease technology. I would probably argue the Jt6 high temp is a better grease technology. But it’s too heavy for that small application. But either would work. Ideally being around electric you would probably want to use a polyurea grease. And I’m guessing it had a polyurea grease in it from the factory. I’m by no means a metallurgist. So I can’t tell you what exact sort of metals are in it. But moly can build up on small parts, causing excessive heat which leads to wear. Which is my only concern. |
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Quoted: Out of those 3 choices for that application, I would pick the Valvoline Cerulean. It’s a lighter 320 base oil vs the JT6 600 base oil. Would probably do decent in high speed applications. They’re all lithium complex grease technology. I would probably argue the Jt6 high temp is a better grease technology. But it’s too heavy for that small application. But either would work. Ideally being around electric you would probably want to use a polyurea grease. And I’m guessing it had a polyurea grease in it from the factory. I’m by no means a metallurgist. So I can’t tell you what exact sort of metals are in it. But moly can build up on small parts, causing excessive heat which leads to wear. Which is my only concern. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Hinder. I would not use moly in a situation like that. Moly is for high shock applications. Moly can also not play well with golden metals. So I would avoid it. Edit To your first part. I smoke a lot of cigars. I better go scrape and wipe out the hear box in my Bosch angle grinder then. JT6 HT #2 is acceptable I hope as that and Valvoline Cerulean is all I have. the JT6 SHD460 is a little too heavy and stiff I think. Out of those 3 choices for that application, I would pick the Valvoline Cerulean. It’s a lighter 320 base oil vs the JT6 600 base oil. Would probably do decent in high speed applications. They’re all lithium complex grease technology. I would probably argue the Jt6 high temp is a better grease technology. But it’s too heavy for that small application. But either would work. Ideally being around electric you would probably want to use a polyurea grease. And I’m guessing it had a polyurea grease in it from the factory. I’m by no means a metallurgist. So I can’t tell you what exact sort of metals are in it. But moly can build up on small parts, causing excessive heat which leads to wear. Which is my only concern. I appreciate the insight more than I can convey in a post. I just wish you'd set up an online store for us goober consumers but it's probably more trouble than it's worth. I took the old grease out, then put the moly/Teflon grease in. Can't tell you what it had in there before, but it was the typical amber/brown color. Didn't have much. I'm guessing it was GP grease, but being Bosch, still made in Germany and $130 it could have been grease better than typical DeWalt or the like. Is polyurea incompatible with lithium? What little was left when I took the old stuff out didn't seem to effect the new stuff in there. |
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