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I braved the ghetto grocery store in the hood and found these. $1 per.
Steel wall and base. Aluminum lid. I bet these plus the pool noodle wad would hold up to M195. Attached File |
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I braved the ghetto grocery store in the hood and found these. $1 per. Steel wall and base. Aluminum lid. I bet these plus the pool noodle wad would hold up to M195. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/75400/AE39D15B-4AB6-4C36-84AE-66FC425B77EE-624323.JPG View Quote I just emailed Jeff (@F5) about longer barrels, and I’m thinking about ordering some blanks from Altlantic Wall since they are cool enough to offer us a code. I have a pile of M200, but I’m thinking I might order their other ones. Maybe a pack of each of their Lvl 1 and Lvl 2 golf ball blanks, and two boxes of M195 cartridges. I’ve been hoping Amazon would get some Hornady blank crimping dies in stock (since the other seller on there has tarded shipping), but it would be good to have some other ones for an eventual comparison. |
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I love the way you think! I just emailed Jeff (@F5) about longer barrels, and I’m thinking about ordering some blanks from Altlantic Wall since they are cool enough to offer us a code. I have a pile of M200, but I’m thinking I might order their other ones. Maybe a pack of each of their Lvl 1 and Lvl 2 golf ball blanks, and two boxes of M195 cartridges. I’ve been hoping Amazon would get some Hornady blank crimping dies in stock (since the other seller on there has tarded shipping), but it would be good to have some other ones for an eventual comparison. View Quote |
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He told me via email that they didn't get any extra mojo with the longer ones. Granted with a larger expansion area and a longer barrel I'd think you would get a lot more distance. Esoecially with a more powerful blank View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I love the way you think! I just emailed Jeff (@F5) about longer barrels, and I’m thinking about ordering some blanks from Altlantic Wall since they are cool enough to offer us a code. I have a pile of M200, but I’m thinking I might order their other ones. Maybe a pack of each of their Lvl 1 and Lvl 2 golf ball blanks, and two boxes of M195 cartridges. I’ve been hoping Amazon would get some Hornady blank crimping dies in stock (since the other seller on there has tarded shipping), but it would be good to have some other ones for an eventual comparison. |
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Quoted: Yeah, I called him on the 19th (about the short vs. long barrel stuff) and he said then he’d look into a longer barrel for me to possibly test, but it might take a week or more. I haven’t heard anything back yet though. To be fair he never made any hard promises either. I just sent him today’s email as a followup for any findings. Maybe he’s away or on vacation or something. I’ll give it a while and then maybe call if I don’t hear anything before then. I don’t wanna pester him, but at the same time I’m not the only one wanting a longer tube either. View Quote |
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If he were to make a 20" to 24" or so barrel I would be interested in one for experimentation purposes. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Yeah, I called him on the 19th (about the short vs. long barrel stuff) and he said then he’d look into a longer barrel for me to possibly test, but it might take a week or more. I haven’t heard anything back yet though. To be fair he never made any hard promises either. I just sent him today’s email as a followup for any findings. Maybe he’s away or on vacation or something. I’ll give it a while and then maybe call if I don’t hear anything before then. I don’t wanna pester him, but at the same time I’m not the only one wanting a longer tube either. If we want to experiment with tails and other stuff, it’s pretty much mandatory we have enough tube to at least stuff it in there. 20” would likely be a good choice. ETA: I’d go for any extended length we can get. I’d pick the longest we can get (24” would be fine), but since Skillets already wanted 20”, then that might end up being most popular choice for now. Just spitballing. |
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I'm the owner of Atlantic Wall Blanks.
One of the members here mentions this thread to me the other day and I have to admit that I'm amazed at the effort guys are putting into this. First, let me explain a little about how some of the different blanks work from a physics stand point. Blanks like the M200 or M82, M1909 for the M1 all work with a fast burning powder and are made for sound/flash and operating pressure for the gun. Grenade launching blanks are designed as a lifting system. Think of M200 blanks a a volleyball serve. A short fast hit to get the blank moving. Think of the M195 blanks as a base ball pitch with a long smooth follow-through. A smack vs a slow steady push. The M195 rounds in the can canon as is will put you back like a 10ga shotgun and put the can out 3 feet at it explodes inside the tube. A gas check of some sort might make that better. I stopped testing due to the recoil. In theory, a longer tube with an M195 (or similar), with a projectile that won't explode should give you better range. It will be a trade off between weight and pressure. Work your way up on pressure. My opinion is that the tube was made stronger than the can as the safety. Going outside those boundaries may put the tube in danger of rupturing. |
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I'm the owner of Atlantic Wall Blanks. One of the members here mentions this thread to me the other day and I have to admit that I'm amazed at the effort guys are putting into this. First, let me explain a little about how some of the different blanks work from a physics stand point. Blanks like the M200 or M82, M1909 for the M1 all work with a fast burning powder and are made for sound/flash and operating pressure for the gun. Grenade launching blanks are designed as a lifting system. Think of M200 blanks a a volleyball serve. A short fast hit to get the blank moving. Think of the M195 blanks as a base ball pitch with a long smooth follow-through. A smack vs a slow steady push. The M195 rounds in the can canon as is will put you back like a 10ga shotgun and put the can out 3 feet at it explodes inside the tube. A gas check of some sort might make that better. I stopped testing due to the recoil. In theory, a longer tube with an M195 (or similar), with a projectile that won't explode should give you better range. It will be a trade off between weight and pressure. Work your way up on pressure. My opinion is that the tube was made stronger than the can as the safety. Going outside those boundaries may put the tube in danger of rupturing. View Quote |
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@AtlanticBlanks, thank you for adding your expertise to our group of mad scientists.
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Thanks for the welcome.
We have had lots of questions on the 5.56 loads so in the interest of safety here is the run-down. M200 is the base round. Golf Ball 1 is 20% hotter. Golf Ball 2 is a further 20% hotter. The L.A.M. is 2X the load of the M200 and are made for MilSim, reenactments and police work. They are too hot even for golf ball launching as they will blow the white shell of the ball if it has any cuts in it. The Can Launching blank that we make is just a hair weaker than the M200 as our M200 is designed around function in the AR platform. Ours turns out to be just a hair too hot to work in the cannon in the summer. (Winter is fine when cold temps suppress the powder burn rate) We didn't know that the can launcher was becoming "a thing" and have not put effort into merging the two rounds. For anyone else, an M200 blank marked as a can launching blank will be an M200 with a different label. Our friends down in Florida at Boland production Supply does that. It's just marketing. They are good guys as well. Buy with confidence from them. Last we saw, X Products was selling Armscor M200 rounds at an insane markup. |
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I'm the owner of Atlantic Wall Blanks. One of the members here mentions this thread to me the other day and I have to admit that I'm amazed at the effort guys are putting into this. First, let me explain a little about how some of the different blanks work from a physics stand point. Blanks like the M200 or M82, M1909 for the M1 all work with a fast burning powder and are made for sound/flash and operating pressure for the gun. Grenade launching blanks are designed as a lifting system. Think of M200 blanks a a volleyball serve. A short fast hit to get the blank moving. Think of the M195 blanks as a base ball pitch with a long smooth follow-through. A smack vs a slow steady push. The M195 rounds in the can canon as is will put you back like a 10ga shotgun and put the can out 3 feet at it explodes inside the tube. A gas check of some sort might make that better. I stopped testing due to the recoil. In theory, a longer tube with an M195 (or similar), with a projectile that won't explode should give you better range. It will be a trade off between weight and pressure. Work your way up on pressure. My opinion is that the tube was made stronger than the can as the safety. Going outside those boundaries may put the tube in danger of rupturing. View Quote Skillets spring shock absorber stock should help with recoil. |
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We have used heavy cardboard boxes cut to shape for other things. (plastic 21oz pop bottles from our WWII German 81mm mortar for mortar skeet.)
We were thinking about a thin sheet of strong plastic would help as well. We never tried it as we didn't think anyone would care, but yes, that was our next project. I love the stock idea. It needs something for sustained shooting. |
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AtlanticBlanks: Thank you very much for the info! As I posted earlier, I’m going to order a sampler of each level of blanks, so I can test them on the way up. I’m waiting on a reply from Jeff at F5, but either way I intend on doing some tests with wads and heavier walled cans. I want to see what can be squeaked out of the 5.56 launcher as far as range using cardboard wads, stronger cans, etc.
I’ll likely start a 7.62 can launcher later, but I’m sticking to 5.56 first. My intention is to put together a “can mortar” with a stronger launch tube. That’ll keep it safe, plus eliminate recoil concerns. I want to see what a regular launch tube can safely pull off first. If the aluminum barrel can safely handle a load up to 16 ounces (definitely not starting there!) with an M195 blank, then I might not even need a steel 5.56 based launch tube. I realize the M195 blank is a whole ‘nother animal, so I intend to proceed carefully. If I can safely reach M195 level, I intend to lanyard fire them first from a fixed platform. Later I’ll need a steel “mortar” tube though, as I want to explore what kind of range can be had with longer barrels and 7.62 blanks. Your posts are quite helpful, and I appreciate the discount code you’ve offered us the use of! |
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There is no getting around physics.
If you want to push a projectile farther, you get pushed harder...or at least longer. The trick will be both reducing initial pressure (no asploding bbls) and maximizing pressure retention as the projectile moves (maximized velocity at muzzle). A possible solution might be axial slits just longer than expected projectile length cut into the inner wall of the bbl allowing some venting of higher pressure gas until the projectile is in motion and then it essentially seals those and retains any remaining expanding gases. Someone might also want to do a basic static pressure calculation to see when the gas expansion starts to fall off, as adding bbl beyond that is pointless. |
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We have used heavy cardboard boxes cut to shape for other things. (plastic 21oz pop bottles from our WWII German 81mm mortar for mortar skeet.) We were thinking about a thin sheet of strong plastic would help as well. We never tried it as we didn't think anyone would care, but yes, that was our next project. I love the stock idea. It needs something for sustained shooting. View Quote |
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There is no getting around physics. If you want to push a projectile farther, you get pushed harder...or at least longer. The trick will be both reducing initial pressure (no asploding bbls) and maximizing pressure retention as the projectile moves (maximized velocity at muzzle). A possible solution might be axial slits just longer than expected projectile length cut into the inner wall of the bbl allowing some venting of higher pressure gas until the projectile is in motion and then it essentially seals those and retains any remaining expanding gases. Someone might also want to do a basic static pressure calculation to see when the gas expansion starts to fall off, as adding bbl beyond that is pointless. View Quote |
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Got my Can Cannon yesterday, installed it on the side charger upper.
Waiting on blanks. The upper receiver from the can cannon has no forward assist and will be perfect for my 4" 22LR build! Win! Win! |
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Regarding a longer tube... anyone considered a round that sleeves over the exterior of the tube?
Would also make adding fins trivial. Blow back would probably suck. |
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We have used heavy cardboard boxes cut to shape for other things. (plastic 21oz pop bottles from our WWII German 81mm mortar for mortar skeet.) We were thinking about a thin sheet of strong plastic would help as well. We never tried it as we didn't think anyone would care, but yes, that was our next project. I love the stock idea. It needs something for sustained shooting. View Quote Another thing. If you watch my videos you note that I do not like to grab the tube. I am just not super confident in the tube not to kaboom. One of my little side projects is making an offset vfg that attaches to the top rail and under the leaf sight. Then I'll fire some M195 with confidence. I don't mind getting pushed around by recoil. I just want to keep my hands... It's about 70% done, but I need another stroke of kooky inspiration before I will call it a thing and actually post it on arfcom. |
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Regarding a longer tube... anyone considered a round that sleeves over the exterior of the tube? Would also make adding fins trivial. Blow back would probably suck. View Quote Atlantic... welcome. You have friends here already. I'll be putting in an order soon. I have a few things in my cart that have been there for a week as I'm trying to figure out what the hell I'm doing. |
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Would there be an issue with a projectile with a smaller diameter tail that fit down inside the reduced diameter area and slipped over the top of the barrel?
Something that looks like a rifle grenade? |
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Would there be an issue with a projectile with a smaller diameter tail that fit down inside the reduced diameter area and slipped over the top of the barrel? Something that looks like a rifle grenade? View Quote |
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Unless quite stout, I would think it would blow it apart. The force out of the ports is quite high, whereas the tube acts as an expansion chamber. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Would there be an issue with a projectile with a smaller diameter tail that fit down inside the reduced diameter area and slipped over the top of the barrel? Something that looks like a rifle grenade? Thinking something the diameter halfway between the outer diameter of the barrel and the inner diameter of the tube. Would you have to go to steel? PVC would probably blow apart. Something that snugly fit over the barrel would probably too. Waiting on blanks to do initial "as designed" firing before I get crazy. |
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How about and orange or grapefruit, with a cardboard or foam disk?
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Unless quite stout, I would think it would blow it apart. The force out of the ports is quite high, whereas the tube acts as an expansion chamber. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Would there be an issue with a projectile with a smaller diameter tail that fit down inside the reduced diameter area and slipped over the top of the barrel? Something that looks like a rifle grenade? |
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my experience with pneumatic launchers has proven that fruit becomes pie filling or mist dependant on launch charge force
volume delivered over time in a longer barrel will really make something sail i have a launcher that uses a backpack hpa tank as the volume chamber it can hork a nerf vortext over 100yards |
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The issue reported above was asploding the tube with grenade blanks...better fitting 'rounds' will make that worse, not better. Or did I miss the point? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: This is why I'm thinking a sabot with a sub caliber projectile, just like in a rifle grenade. Thinking the push vs. shove description. In a rifle grenade that slips over a barrel, the gas pushes out the muzzle, in this it blasts sideways. Just exploring hypothetical possibilities. |
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over sleeving an aluminum launch chamber with a closed cell PVC barrel is a useful trick until you get a barrel obstruction
our pneumatic launchers are blow off valve protected from over pressure |
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Quoted: I have a bazillion feet of leftover 1" blaze orange pvc fire sprinkler pipe. That stuff is pretty strong. It might crack but it probably won't kaboom, so long as it vents out of the bottom a tad. View Quote |
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Got the BCA side charging upper just a bit ago. Overall, not bad. Upper is billet, nicely machined with a smooth anodized finish. No fit issues at all. PA, was out of the threaded plug for the rear of the upper. The threads are 7/16-14NC, I might get a bolt and make my own, not that its needed... BCG seems well made as well. Smooth nitride finish on the carrier and cam pin. The bolt is a typical MPI marked generic bolt, again I see no issues with it. I did check head space with a GO and NOGO, passed. The BCG rides smoothly in the upper, no binding at all. I did add a little vibra tite on the bolt handle bolt threads, if it loosens, I'll hit it with blue loc-tite next. My wife really likes it, much easier for her to charge, $120 well spent View Quote The threaded hole in my BCA upper is 3/8”- 16 I know because I made my own plug for it from 7075 barstock... @shultz |
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one inch pvc could make nice arrow shafts https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/3097/6EEB3BC3-E1ED-4734-BA75-3917E998AC04-623866.jpg these could slide over the barrel inside the launch tube https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/3097/C49D9BD4-A58F-4F28-A2E8-B9F398E69156-625226.jpg View Quote |
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this is why ve experiment
i wonder if the hollow shaft did not fully cover the barrel ports, would the expanding charge fill behind the bulb, start the launch and volumize the chamber? because we are rifle grenading these rounds, we are copasetic with atf rules what if you built a mortar fired by chambered blanks and a pull string? it seems to me, that is a bigger than 12 guage breach loaded canon and not copasetic |
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this is why ve experiment i wonder if the hollow shaft did not fully cover the barrel ports, would the expanding charge fill behind the bulb, start the launch and volumize the chamber? because we are rifle grenading these rounds, we are copasetic with atf rules what if you built a mortar fired by chambered blanks and a pull string? it seems to me, that is a bigger than 12 gauge breach loaded canon and not copasetic View Quote How would it be breech loaded if you still put the projectile down the muzzle? |
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its not a "muzzleloader" if the launch charge goes in a rear chamber
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RE: PVC Gentlemen Please stop and read this
PVC is not used in the fireworks industry for a reason (mortars) it fractures/ splinters under pressure and the fragments are hard to see with X-Rays the last few posts about slipping a PVC pipe over the barrel is a VERY dangerous idea In use for example a rifle grenade (slip on projectile) the gas from the blank is directed in the direction of travel of the projectile, with no obstruction The idea of slipping a 1inch PVC pipe over the can cannon barrel stub is a very bad idea the barrel stub end is welded shut, and holes are drilled laterally the pressure from the blank will be directed directly into the PVC pipe covering the barrel You have just created a pipe bomb Mortars use a small charge of Black powder to lift the fireworks shell the pressure difference black powder and smokeless are huge very good chance the can cannon tube will not contain the blast Think long and hard --- where is your left hand ??? Attached File I acquired a can cannon because of this thread the conversation was taking a dangerous turn, hence the warning Forward grips on a launcher device are not recommended due to the fact that is puts your hand directly in the line of fire in the event of a malfunction Attached File |
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Disclaimer: Using logic with regard to ATF determinations can be “problematic” in the least, but we have to have some logical baseline to attempt discussion/design.
Intent plays a part as well. 37mm flare launcher. It uses fixed ammunition, has a bore large enough for DD class, yet is not a DD. Why? It isn’t intended (as manufactured) for use as a DD (unlike 40mm). If you make DD ammunition for your 37mm, you make a DD, but if you stick to flares, smokes, glitter, and unicorns— you’re fine. A 37mm flare launcher is a breech loader firing fixed ammunition. It isn’t a DD because it isn’t manufactured with intent for DD use, and DD ammunition generally isn’t available for use in it either. A 40mm grenade launcher is a breech loader firing fixed ammunition. It is a DD because it is intended to be fired as manufactured with DD ammunition, and DD ammunition is manufactured and available for use in it. A 60mm mortar is muzzle loaded with fixed ammunition, and is intended for use as manufactured in firing DD ammunition. Civy use with non-DD ammunition doesn’t change it’s originally manufactured intent, nor negate the fact that DD ammunition is manufactured for use in it. A 66mm Soda launcher is muzzle loaded with non-fixed ammunition, and is not manufactured with intent for use with DD ammunition. (To my knowledge) 66mm DD Soda ammunition is not manufactured, let alone commercially available. So........ DON’T ANYONE GO MANUFACTURING HIGH EXPLOSIVE 66MM DIET COKE!!! |
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RE: PVC Gentlemen Please stop and read this PVC is not used in the fireworks industry for a reason (mortars) it fractures/ splinters under pressure and the fragments are hard to see with X-Rays the last few posts about slipping a PVC pipe over the barrel is a VERY dangerous idea In use for example a rifle grenade (slip on projectile) the gas from the blank is directed in the direction of travel of the projectile, with no obstruction The idea of slipping a 1inch PVC pipe over the can cannon barrel stub is a very bad idea the barrel stub end is welded shut, and holes are drilled laterally the pressure from the blank will be directed directly into the PVC pipe covering the barrel You have just created a pipe bomb Mortars use a small charge of Black powder to lift the fireworks shell the pressure difference black powder and smokeless are huge very good chance the can cannon tube will not contain the blast Think long and hard --- where is your left hand ??? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/37083/hand-625334.JPG I acquired a can cannon because of this thread the conversation was taking a dangerous turn, hence the warning Forward grips on a launcher device are not recommended due to the fact that is puts your hand directly in the line of fire in the event of a malfunction https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/464598/5666C0F0-EF39-40F4-9192-CB1E0644A3B2-613489.JPG View Quote We're engaging in thought experiments. Several posts above, including my own, speculate correctly that PVC would likely not be safe or would shatter. I also mentioned the vector of the gas jet (sideways) in my post above. As for the grip, if your hand is on the grip, how does it get into the line of fire? I would think no grip, as they come from the factory, is more likely because of the smooth outer tube, vs. a fixed location to grab on. That photo is from the manufacturer. https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/X-Products-Can-Cannon--now-an-F5-thread-/5-2122881/?page=12#i73535946 And I'm not sure where the black powder came into the discussion from... |
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RE: PVC Gentlemen Please stop and read this PVC is not used in the fireworks industry for a reason (mortars) it fractures/ splinters under pressure and the fragments are hard to see with X-Rays the last few posts about slipping a PVC pipe over the barrel is a VERY dangerous idea In use for example a rifle grenade (slip on projectile) the gas from the blank is directed in the direction of travel of the projectile, with no obstruction The idea of slipping a 1inch PVC pipe over the can cannon barrel stub is a very bad idea the barrel stub end is welded shut, and holes are drilled laterally the pressure from the blank will be directed directly into the PVC pipe covering the barrel You have just created a pipe bomb Mortars use a small charge of Black powder to lift the fireworks shell the pressure difference black powder and smokeless are huge very good chance the can cannon tube will not contain the blast Think long and hard --- where is your left hand ??? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/37083/hand-625334.JPG I acquired a can cannon because of this thread the conversation was taking a dangerous turn, hence the warning Forward grips on a launcher device are not recommended due to the fact that is puts your hand directly in the line of fire in the event of a malfunction https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/464598/5666C0F0-EF39-40F4-9192-CB1E0644A3B2-613489.JPG View Quote I think we all knew the PVC would blow up if you had a seal, which was why we were pondering cutting vent holes to let the expanding gasses pass through somewhat. But your point it definitely noted. But what isn't as clear was the suggestion that the aluminum tube would blow because the of PVC. Are you saying the pressure will spike and then suddenly release, blowing up the tube? Also, I grip the magwell in order to avoid a kaboom on my hand. The barrel nut section is 1-1/4" thick or so, so I'm thinking it will blow up further on the tube. Do you see some fault in this logic? Thanks. |
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RE: PVC Gentlemen Please stop and read this PVC is not used in the fireworks industry for a reason (mortars) it fractures/ splinters under pressure and the fragments are hard to see with X-Rays the last few posts about slipping a PVC pipe over the barrel is a VERY dangerous idea In use for example a rifle grenade (slip on projectile) the gas from the blank is directed in the direction of travel of the projectile, with no obstruction The idea of slipping a 1inch PVC pipe over the can cannon barrel stub is a very bad idea the barrel stub end is welded shut, and holes are drilled laterally the pressure from the blank will be directed directly into the PVC pipe covering the barrel You have just created a pipe bomb Mortars use a small charge of Black powder to lift the fireworks shell the pressure difference black powder and smokeless are huge very good chance the can cannon tube will not contain the blast Think long and hard --- where is your left hand ??? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/37083/hand-625334.JPG I acquired a can cannon because of this thread the conversation was taking a dangerous turn, hence the warning Forward grips on a launcher device are not recommended due to the fact that is puts your hand directly in the line of fire in the event of a malfunction https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/464598/5666C0F0-EF39-40F4-9192-CB1E0644A3B2-613489.JPG View Quote Then I’d be all about some learning via destructive science, so long as the testers remained safe.. FWIW: An actual rifle grenade traps the pressures at the muzzle, but it is constructed out of very strong steel. The confined pressure is intense enough to launch a 16 ounce rifle grenade over 300m with bullet trap designs (APAV40 and FTV). |
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It’ll probably not last long, but I just ordered a 67mm punch to try out for wad cutting. All the nice ones are insanely expensive for this use, so I just bought a cheap chinese one. It’ll take forever to get here, but I don’t have a steel launch tube stub to make a better one with yet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Round-Hollow-Punch-Tools-Hole-Punching-Leather-CARBON-Steel-Diameter-50-70mm/173133834548?hash=item284f94a934%3Am%3Am8mVyfcK-u0BI1ih8tcXRdA&var=471868626098&_sacat=0&_nkw=67mm+wad+punch&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313 Attached File When I figure out exactly where I’m headed barrel-wise, I’ll just cut off a stub for a custom punch. |
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HDPE seems to be a standard pyro technic launch tube material
either that or fiberglas |
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Still waiting on blanks.
I'm going to try my Sig Brace. It's solid rubber, feels good against the shoulder. Attached File |
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