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Posted: 7/31/2018 9:22:24 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the welcome. We have had lots of questions on the 5.56 loads so in the interest of safety here is the run-down. M200 is the base round. Golf Ball 1 is 20% hotter. Golf Ball 2 is a further 20% hotter. The L.A.M. is 2X the load of the M200 and are made for MilSim, reenactments and police work. They are too hot even for golf ball launching as they will blow the white shell of the ball if it has any cuts in it. The Can Launching blank that we make is just a hair weaker than the M200 as our M200 is designed around function in the AR platform. Ours turns out to be just a hair too hot to work in the cannon in the summer. (Winter is fine when cold temps suppress the powder burn rate) We didn't know that the can launcher was becoming "a thing" and have not put effort into merging the two rounds. For anyone else, an M200 blank marked as a can launching blank will be an M200 with a different label. Our friends down in Florida at Boland production Supply does that. It's just marketing. They are good guys as well. Buy with confidence from them. Last we saw, X Products was selling Armscor M200 rounds at an insane markup. I just ordered: 1 bag Golf ball lvl 1 1 bag Golf ball lvl 2 1 bag L.A.M. Mid Range 2 bags M195 Grenade The UPS ground is pricey (although I understand why), but the ARF code helped offset it. 
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Posted: 7/31/2018 10:09:45 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How long did your order take to ship? |
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Posted: 7/31/2018 11:39:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted: Relax We're engaging in thought experiments. Several posts above, including my own, speculate correctly that PVC would likely not be safe or would shatter. I also mentioned the vector of the gas jet (sideways) in my post above. You may be somewhat aware of the danger, there are many people reading this thread that may not be this is directed to both of you As for the grip, if your hand is on the grip, how does it get into the line of fire? As for the grip, if your hand is on the grip, how does it get into the line of fire? Look at the photo with the grip holding the grip with your left hand where is the barrel stub in the can cannon? it is right above your wrist/hand in the event of a malfunction that is where a rupture will take place the can canon use of a soda can as a projectile relies on the can as a pressure relief ie the can ruptures before the barrel as it is the weak link this thread has gone beyond the can projectile to solid objects of different sizes and weights in the event of a obstruction, projectile lodged in barrel ( dirt, mud, etc) do you think a thin AL tube will withstand the pressure? I would not want to take that bet I would think no grip, as they come from the factory, is more likely because of the smooth outer tube, vs. a fixed location to grab on. That photo is from the manufacturer. Yes I am aware I have talked to Jeff, (nice Guy) https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/X-Products-Can-Cannon--now-an-F5-thread-/5-2122881/?page=12#i73535946 And I'm not sure where the black powder came into the discussion from... Yea wasn’t too clear on that Black Powder as used in fireworks mortars (and 37mm launcher ammo) is more of a push To propel the shell or projectile . Even with the relative small lift charge for mortars PVC will still rupture. (was trying to make the point that PVC is not a good choice for this) Smokless powder operates differently in that as pressure increased the speed of “burning” Increases (more pressure) Back to the “PVC pipe slip over the barrel stub” idea By putting the PVC pipe over the barrel stub, you have changed the system From a high/low to confinement Depending on the schedule PVC is rated from 280psi to 400 psi bursting When fired, instead of the gasses flowing unobstructed to fill the can cannon tube and pushing the can to its target.. You have the gasses filling the barrel stub (the holes are blocked by the PVC pipe) The pressure will increase until the PVC ruptures. ( again 280-400 psi) Instead of low pressure gas, you now have a burst of high pressure gas In the can cannon tube, And the shrapnel from the PVC. Then there is the dwell time that it takes to start the projectile moving Pressure could be increasing Good chance the projectile will not move before the can cannon tube bursts Quoted: This is a great post, but a couple of parts are unclear. I think we all knew the PVC would blow up if you had a seal, which was why we were pondering cutting vent holes to let the expanding gasses pass through somewhat. If holes were placed in the "pipe " slipped over the barrel stub I can see two things if the holes matched the barrel hole for hole, all you have done is introduced friction into the system. not going to help "the increased the distance" goal If you covered some of the holes, now you have less gas volume acting on the projectile (less volume/more time) that is not going to help with the short barrels we are working with. But your point it definitely noted. But what isn't as clear was the suggestion that the aluminum tube would blow because the of PVC. Are you saying the pressure will spike and then suddenly release, blowing up the tube? see above Also, I grip the magwell in order to avoid a kaboom on my hand. The barrel nut section is 1-1/4" thick or so, so I'm thinking it will blow up further on the tube. Do you see some fault in this logic? O.K. let me repeat that If my hand is 1.25 inches away from a catastrophic launch tube malfunction …(its safer??? ) ?(Grin)
As designed, using cans as projectiles; I do not think there is a issue with hand placement As the can is the safety valve When the system is changed... projectile, gas volume (Blank strength) Etc..... All I am saying use caution, and think things through Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 12:07:06 AM EDT
[#4]
Too much text in that to quote.
I totally agree with a lot of what you are saying, but I'm not quite sure you're understanding what we are proposing. The tail fin would have two separate functions. One is to stabilize the can in flight. The other is to (slightly) increase the pressure in the can for more umpf. Even with holes all through the CPVC it will still decrease the expansion area. Not by much, but enough to make a difference. It had been my idea initially to have it only overlap the stem a small amount. Maybe 1-1/2 inches or so. Which brings me to friction. 1" pipe should have 3/8" total clearance over the barrel stem. It's not going to have any friction that I can imagine. You are correct about kabooms. I should probably get a heavy glove for this thing. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 12:29:29 AM EDT
[#5]
What about ABS...isn't it more forgiving on cracking and ruptures?
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Posted: 8/1/2018 12:48:17 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Too much text in that to quote. I agree :) I totally agree with a lot of what you are saying, but I'm not quite sure you're understanding what we are proposing. The tail fin would have two separate functions. One is to stabilize the can in flight. The other is to (slightly) increase the pressure in the can for more umpf. Even with holes all through the CPVC it will still decrease the expansion area. Not by much, but enough to make a difference. It had been my idea initially to have it only overlap the stem a small amount. Maybe 1-1/2 inches or so. Easy test to see if decreasing the volume under the can increases distance 2 inch hole saw, cut some rounds from 1 inch board, drill a 1 inch hole in round (centered) launch can, note distance drop 1 wood donut (cheese charge :) ) over the barrel stub launch can note distance drop 2 donuts ... you get the idea Which brings me to friction. 1" pipe should have 3/8" total clearance over the barrel stem. It's not going to have any friction that I can imagine. You are correct about kabooms. I should probably get a heavy glove for this thing. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 12:48:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Too much text in that to quote. I totally agree with a lot of what you are saying, but I'm not quite sure you're understanding what we are proposing. The tail fin would have two separate functions. One is to stabilize the can in flight. The other is to (slightly) increase the pressure in the can for more umpf. Even with holes all through the CPVC it will still decrease the expansion area. Not by much, but enough to make a difference. It had been my idea initially to have it only overlap the stem a small amount. Maybe 1-1/2 inches or so. Which brings me to friction. 1" pipe should have 3/8" total clearance over the barrel stem. It's not going to have any friction that I can imagine. You are correct about kabooms. I should probably get a heavy glove for this thing. Not designed to hold pressure at all though. Was also thinking Schedule M higher pressure copper pipe (spendy). The Coors light can sits down in the expansion chamber right on top of the barrel stub. So that reduces the volume somewhat, which should increase the pressure. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 12:49:51 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Posted: 8/1/2018 12:52:47 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Too much text in that to quote. I totally agree with a lot of what you are saying, but I'm not quite sure you're understanding what we are proposing. The tail fin would have two separate functions. One is to stabilize the can in flight. The other is to (slightly) increase the pressure in the can for more umpf. Even with holes all through the CPVC it will still decrease the expansion area. Not by much, but enough to make a difference. It had been my idea initially to have it only overlap the stem a small amount. Maybe 1-1/2 inches or so. Which brings me to friction. 1" pipe should have 3/8" total clearance over the barrel stem. It's not going to have any friction that I can imagine. You are correct about kabooms. I should probably get a heavy glove for this thing. I'm working on making a reusable strap-on "lifting base" that will allow for an adjustable seal between the payload and the launcher tube and also will have flip-up fins for stabilization (essentially a "bolt-on" kit like the JDAM is for dumb bombs). I intend to have the fins extend below the bottom of the soda can payload area, but everything that sits below the payload area will be made from materials that are shatter resistant and they will be designed to hug the outer wall of the expansion chamber. Shouldn't be much closer to the stem than the launcher tube's wall already is. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 1:32:28 AM EDT
[#10]
My inner engineer spent the last several hours playing with a design
based on the ring foil for flight stability then it hit me how about using a streamer for rear drag on the projectable (can) 3 foot of colored streamer (fire reistant ) eye screw, some stainless fishing leader 6 inches or so attached to a "base" (centered) strip of "Scotch" tape to hold the package together launch will destroy the tape, deploying the streamer you get the nice visual of the streamer heading to target different colors, games and team events... Fun and its cheap and reusable |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 6:04:46 AM EDT
[#11]
I built a few streamer stabilized pool noodle rounds
they were fairly random in their flight paths i think the Israeli dummy rile grenades look pretty good they have aluminum tubes there are also fairly cheap us versions 
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Posted: 8/1/2018 6:12:49 AM EDT
[#12]
I don't have a 3D printer, but what about someone print out a replacement cap for the Coors and/or Miller Lite pint cans, make them the same tread pitch as the screw top, but have tail fins that might help stabilize the projectile. Make the fins just a bit smaller than the inner stop that keep the cans from sliding all the way down to the plugged barrel stub. True you would only be able to use on these particular cans, but wouldn't you also be able to use them on 16oz plastic soda bottles as long as the mouth diameter is the same?
Chris |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 1:48:23 PM EDT
[#13]
 DIY Soda can lid made from soda bottle in a minute so what would occur if you: 1) popped the can tab 2) attached a soda bottle top full of mentos 3) lanched the can... 4) profit? |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 1:50:38 PM EDT
[#14]
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Posted: 8/1/2018 2:23:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Have we figured out how to launch lawn darts (Jarts)?
I’m thinking lawn darts at the family reunion is more fun with a can cannon than throwing them. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 2:50:42 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't have a 3D printer, but what about someone print out a replacement cap for the Coors and/or Miller Lite pint cans, make them the same tread pitch as the screw top, but have tail fins that might help stabilize the projectile. Make the fins just a bit smaller than the inner stop that keep the cans from sliding all the way down to the plugged barrel stub. True you would only be able to use on these particular cans, but wouldn't you also be able to use them on 16oz plastic soda bottles as long as the mouth diameter is the same? Chris https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13898 
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Posted: 8/1/2018 3:04:56 PM EDT
[#17]
I definitely see the appeal of the fins for the back of the Coors cans, but they are just too damn heavy to get any distance. If only something like that existed in steel and was in the 8oz weight category.
I still stand behind my inverted loading procedure method for stabilizing anything you actually intend to get any distance and accuracy out of. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 3:35:20 PM EDT
[#18]
 
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Posted: 8/1/2018 3:56:51 PM EDT
[#19]
The cans should fly decent if you just fill them so the weight would be unbalanced towards the front and if the CG is forward of the Cd then it should fly straight... like a Forster shotgun slug or shuttlecock. You don’t have to have extra drag or aero surfaces/fins... just put the Cg in front of the Cd.
For a example, fill a can about half full of pea gravel or gypsum or a heavy clay/plaster (something with a specific gravity in the 1.75-2.0 range) and then top the filling off with some lightwight expanding foam to hold it in place. The can should weigh the same as a soda filled can (for good flight distances) but also have a forward CG for stability. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 4:00:25 PM EDT
[#20]
 Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 4:23:34 PM EDT
[#21]
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Posted: 8/1/2018 4:54:58 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The cans should fly decent if you just fill them so the weight would be unbalanced towards the front and if the CG is forward of the Cd then it should fly straight... like a Forster shotgun slug or shuttlecock. You don’t have to have extra drag or aero surfaces/fins... just put the Cg in front of the Cd. For a example, fill a can about half full of pea gravel or gypsum or a heavy clay/plaster (something with a specific gravity in the 1.75-2.0 range) and then top the filling off with some lightwight expanding foam to hold it in place. The can should weigh the same as a soda filled can (for good flight distances) but also have a forward CG for stability. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 4:59:37 PM EDT
[#23]
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:00:41 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's literally exactly what I was getting at in my AAR post with the glued cans. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The cans should fly decent if you just fill them so the weight would be unbalanced towards the front and if the CG is forward of the Cd then it should fly straight... like a Forster shotgun slug or shuttlecock. You don’t have to have extra drag or aero surfaces/fins... just put the Cg in front of the Cd. For a example, fill a can about half full of pea gravel or gypsum or a heavy clay/plaster (something with a specific gravity in the 1.75-2.0 range) and then top the filling off with some lightwight expanding foam to hold it in place. The can should weigh the same as a soda filled can (for good flight distances) but also have a forward CG for stability. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:10:10 PM EDT
[#25]
OK, a few things.
One: being honest, the manual of arms for this setup is BAD with the side charger. So I did a mod that was suggested to me by another poster in the original 2015 thread. I removed the plunger and spring from my bolt catch, drilled a small indentation into the bolt catch groove, installed the spring, and reinstalled the catch. I now have a bolt catch that automatically engages every time I pull the handle to the rear. This has three functions: 1: I do not have to worry about double charging a round through the action like I did in this old video below. 2: All other actions of the reloading sequence to be done with my left hand with the gun in the relative ready position. 3: It keeps the bolt open so the cans don't have to fight the resistance of compressed air.  Attached File Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:35:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You could use the Coors Light 16oz cans with a total weight of 8 oz. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The cans should fly decent if you just fill them so the weight would be unbalanced towards the front and if the CG is forward of the Cd then it should fly straight... like a Forster shotgun slug or shuttlecock. You don’t have to have extra drag or aero surfaces/fins... just put the Cg in front of the Cd. For a example, fill a can about half full of pea gravel or gypsum or a heavy clay/plaster (something with a specific gravity in the 1.75-2.0 range) and then top the filling off with some lightwight expanding foam to hold it in place. The can should weigh the same as a soda filled can (for good flight distances) but also have a forward CG for stability. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:40:43 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hmm. I wonder what the can would weigh if it were filled up with something like dry portland cement or thinset? That way, the dust leaves a gray haze all over the ground, and wont make a shooting pit look like a hazmat site. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The cans should fly decent if you just fill them so the weight would be unbalanced towards the front and if the CG is forward of the Cd then it should fly straight... like a Forster shotgun slug or shuttlecock. You don’t have to have extra drag or aero surfaces/fins... just put the Cg in front of the Cd. For a example, fill a can about half full of pea gravel or gypsum or a heavy clay/plaster (something with a specific gravity in the 1.75-2.0 range) and then top the filling off with some lightwight expanding foam to hold it in place. The can should weigh the same as a soda filled can (for good flight distances) but also have a forward CG for stability. I was thinking of the idea of weighting the nose, then filling the remaining space with expanding foam, for a total weight of ~8oz. I like your idea of a powdered filler. Could use plaster of paris or marking chalk or a mixture. Do the cans burst on impact? |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:41:41 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, a few things. One: being honest, the manual of arms for this setup is BAD with the side charger. So I did a mod that was suggested to me by another poster in the original 2015 thread. I removed the plunger and spring from my bolt catch, drilled a small indentation into the bolt catch groove, installed the spring, and reinstalled the catch. I now have a bolt catch that automatically engages every time I pull the handle to the rear. This has three functions: 1: I do not have to worry about double charging a round through the action like I did in this old video below. 2: All other actions of the reloading sequence to be done with my left hand with the gun in the relative ready position. 3: It keeps the bolt open so the cans don't have to fight the resistance of compressed air. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/75400/hBXiLkAnSzOfkDKni_Bisw-626389.JPG  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdX15U7H0R8
Cool mod! |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:43:43 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Completely full? Probably well over 2 lbs. I was thinking of the idea of weighting the nose, then filling the remaining space with expanding foam, for a total weight of ~8oz. I like your idea of a powdered filler. Could use plaster of paris or marking chalk or a mixture. Do the cans burst on impact? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The cans should fly decent if you just fill them so the weight would be unbalanced towards the front and if the CG is forward of the Cd then it should fly straight... like a Forster shotgun slug or shuttlecock. You don’t have to have extra drag or aero surfaces/fins... just put the Cg in front of the Cd. For a example, fill a can about half full of pea gravel or gypsum or a heavy clay/plaster (something with a specific gravity in the 1.75-2.0 range) and then top the filling off with some lightwight expanding foam to hold it in place. The can should weigh the same as a soda filled can (for good flight distances) but also have a forward CG for stability. I was thinking of the idea of weighting the nose, then filling the remaining space with expanding foam, for a total weight of ~8oz. I like your idea of a powdered filler. Could use plaster of paris or marking chalk or a mixture. Do the cans burst on impact? 
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:48:12 PM EDT
[#30]
Idea...
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:48:57 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dry uncured cement? I am not sure I agree. looks like I have another project...
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Posted: 8/1/2018 5:55:05 PM EDT
[#32]
Speaking of scales, I upgraded and tested the spring in my inverted recoil stock. the lenth of travel is just under 1". The spring begins to compress @ 33lbs and is fully compressed at 57lbs.
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Posted: 8/1/2018 6:12:04 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Speaking of scales, I upgraded and tested the spring in my inverted recoil stock. the lenth of travel is just under 1". The spring begins to compress @ 33lbs and is fully compressed at 57lbs. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 6:14:00 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you use an automobile valve spring? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Speaking of scales, I upgraded and tested the spring in my inverted recoil stock. the lenth of travel is just under 1". The spring begins to compress @ 33lbs and is fully compressed at 57lbs. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 6:34:54 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I picked up a spring at mclendons that was the right diameter and was nice and stiff. I cut the coils to slightly longer than it needed to be and pressed it in place.
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Posted: 8/1/2018 7:02:59 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hmm. I wonder what the can would weigh if it were filled up with something like dry portland cement or thinset? That way, the dust leaves a gray haze all over the ground, and wont make a shooting pit look like a hazmat site. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 7:06:21 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You said stiff. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I picked up a spring at mclendons that was the right diameter and was nice and stiff. I cut the coils to slightly longer than it needed to be and pressed it in place. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 10:44:35 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My inner engineer spent the last several hours playing with a design based on the ring foil for flight stability then it hit me how about using a streamer for rear drag on the projectable (can) 3 foot of colored streamer (fire reistant ) eye screw, some stainless fishing leader 6 inches or so attached to a "base" (centered) strip of "Scotch" tape to hold the package together launch will destroy the tape, deploying the streamer you get the nice visual of the streamer heading to target different colors, games and team events... Fun and its cheap and reusable Info on RAG-A and RAG-B is somewhat sparse from my digging, but Abraham Flatau invented a ring airfoil grenade design that launched a 63.5mm diameter 5oz projectile 1000 meters (RAG-A), and a 3.17oz 54mm projectile over 1400m..... launch velocities were only 249fps (RAG-A) and up to 450fps for the RAG-B. If someone printed a Ring Airfoil and a sabot to launch it in— it could be interesting! The missing component would be spin stability though. I guess if there were enough merit, a grooved bore liner could interface with the sabot to spin it up on the way out.lol http://www.angelfire.com/art/enchanter/RAG.html https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015095105253;view=2up;seq=60;skin=mobile Toy version for folks unfamiliar with the ring airfoil concept:  Moonshot Ring Launcher - Seeing Is Believing |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 11:06:12 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I picked up a spring at mclendons that was the right diameter and was nice and stiff. I cut the coils to slightly longer than it needed to be and pressed it in place. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Speaking of scales, I upgraded and tested the spring in my inverted recoil stock. the lenth of travel is just under 1". The spring begins to compress @ 33lbs and is fully compressed at 57lbs. https://www.mclendons.com/Categories/1850-Springs.aspx?itemsPerPage=12 |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 11:22:38 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I’m trying to search Mclendons.com for springs, but every time I click on the springs category it draws nothing but a goofy error message. https://www.mclendons.com/Categories/1850-Springs.aspx?itemsPerPage=12 Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Speaking of scales, I upgraded and tested the spring in my inverted recoil stock. the lenth of travel is just under 1". The spring begins to compress @ 33lbs and is fully compressed at 57lbs. https://www.mclendons.com/Categories/1850-Springs.aspx?itemsPerPage=12 This was about 3" long with a 1" outside diameter. It had 1/8" wire with 4 coils per inch. This is the remnant of what I have left.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 11:29:54 PM EDT
[#41]
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Posted: 8/2/2018 12:02:42 AM EDT
[#42]
Cool, thanks.
Semi-sidetrack: While I was searching around for stuff I stumbled across this airsoft M79 on Ebay. It says aluminum parts and a wooden stock and forend. Kinda pricey, but for someone wanting an M79 style set-up it might make a good donor parts set of sorts... King Arms M79 Airsoft Grenade Launcher |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 9:08:26 AM EDT
[#43]
My OCD was killing me, so I went ahead and installed the port door and fwd assist on the upper. Then I built up another lower from the pile and put my Colt sbr lower back where it belongs.
My buddy gave me an old dusty buttpad kit from the back of his shop that installs with industrial velcro. It’s pretty thick and cushy. I wasn’t interested in the velcro part at first, then it hit me— buttpad for shoulder launching, then pull it off for putting the butt on the ground rifle grenade style. I left the velcro off right behind the buffer tube, that way it won’t get screwed up when recoil hammers it into the ground. I think it’ll work well.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 11:25:02 AM EDT
[#44]
For those of you with Grenade style sights, cab you still realistically use them? From the videos, at 40 degrees of elevation, it looks like they are unusable? Are you using the tip of the tube as a 2nd sighting point??
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Posted: 8/2/2018 12:49:16 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For those of you with Grenade style sights, cab you still realistically use them? From the videos, at 40 degrees of elevation, it looks like they are unusable? Are you using the tip of the tube as a 2nd sighting point?? |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 12:50:34 PM EDT
[#46]
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Posted: 8/2/2018 1:58:24 PM EDT
[#47]
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Posted: 8/2/2018 2:28:11 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My OCD was killing me, so I went ahead and installed the port door and fwd assist on the upper. Then I built up another lower from the pile and put my Colt sbr lower back where it belongs. My buddy gave me an old dusty buttpad kit from the back of his shop that installs with industrial velcro. It’s pretty thick and cushy. I wasn’t interested in the velcro part at first, then it hit me— buttpad for shoulder launching, then pull it off for putting the butt on the ground rifle grenade style. I left the velcro off right behind the buffer tube, that way it won’t get screwed up when recoil hammers it into the ground. I think it’ll work well. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/38F3213D-94C5-49D7-9721-3C9C5D864BE5-627013.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/80A06E75-0595-4AA0-89DE-7DE3DB5D94D0-627020.JPG Have you considered mounting a picatinny rail to the site and putting a cheap red dot? |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 4:27:56 PM EDT
[#49]
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That's a pretty damn good looking blooper if I don't say so myself! Have you considered mounting a picatinny rail to the site and putting a cheap red dot? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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My OCD was killing me, so I went ahead and installed the port door and fwd assist on the upper. Then I built up another lower from the pile and put my Colt sbr lower back where it belongs. My buddy gave me an old dusty buttpad kit from the back of his shop that installs with industrial velcro. It’s pretty thick and cushy. I wasn’t interested in the velcro part at first, then it hit me— buttpad for shoulder launching, then pull it off for putting the butt on the ground rifle grenade style. I left the velcro off right behind the buffer tube, that way it won’t get screwed up when recoil hammers it into the ground. I think it’ll work well. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/38F3213D-94C5-49D7-9721-3C9C5D864BE5-627013.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/80A06E75-0595-4AA0-89DE-7DE3DB5D94D0-627020.JPG Have you considered mounting a picatinny rail to the site and putting a cheap red dot?
Yeah, I‘ve been thinking about doing some major surgery on one. Steps: 1) Find the cheapest (suitable) quick detach base I can find, then drill and tap the quadrant sight to it. 2) chop off the front sight portion ahead of the range scale 3) remove rear sight and mount a picatinny to the rear portion of sight and then add red dot. And maybe: 4) buy that extended rail riser you found and use it to move the quadrant sight farther forward. I think if I can move the quadrant sight forward far enough, it’d set the sight higher off the ground (because of the angle when fired at range) and let me see through the sight while kneeling with the butt on the ground “rifle grenade style”. I’ve been kicking it around, but haven’t had time to figure it all out and get to that part yet. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 4:35:46 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For those of you with Grenade style sights, cab you still realistically use them? From the videos, at 40 degrees of elevation, it looks like they are unusable? Are you using the tip of the tube as a 2nd sighting point?? |
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