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Posted: 12/31/2021 12:11:18 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don’t understand why people thought I was talking about the floor as opposed to the walls. You new here? |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 12:15:31 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You new here? I see what you did there. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 12:30:51 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 12/31/2021 12:38:29 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not at all. Where can the rebar pins go? They can only go as deep as the hole is drilled, they can't come out because have you ever driven a 1/2" pin into a 1/2" hole? They can't go left, right, up, or down because...reasons. You guys that are calling for a test cylinder are really overthinking this. This Are they not bracing the walls before they backfill??  |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 1:02:56 PM EDT
[#5]
OP, you can always ask your supplier for a full submittal on their particular mix. It should show historical data of the mix on a time/strength curve, add mixtures, w/c ratios, etc. This will allow you to make sure you are comfortable with the 7 day strength on the walls prior to backfilling.
I have seen 4,000 psi mixes come up to 6,700psi on a 7 day break, so the 28 day design is more of a guideline. Since this Florida boy knows nothing about basements and subgrade insulation, I will defer to others on that. I will say that depending on the basic design and soil type, I would be nervous backfilling prior to framing in the floor or otherwise bracing the wall. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:00:31 PM EDT
[#6]
As far as people saying "it's only residential, LOL".
1. It is residential, as in where my family and I LIVE. Every day. Hopefully for decades. 2. I'm not worried about a post-construction collapse. The odds of that are near zero, even if I found and used the town's worst contractors. But if I can avoid cracking and separation and leaks and annoying shit like that later by doing just a little homework now, why not? Seems stupid not to. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:02:39 PM EDT
[#7]
On engineered jobs bar placement was very detailed yet on residential it would vary. Contractors liked middle of wall/ neutral axis despite vertical bar needing to be on the tension side which changes if wall is supported at the top. Maybe this doesn't matter real world wise but technically it does on a wall design.
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:13:53 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As far as people saying "it's only residential, LOL". 1. It is residential, as in where my family and I LIVE. Every day. Hopefully for decades. 2. I'm not worried about a post-construction collapse. The odds of that are near zero, even if I found and used the town's worst contractors. But if I can avoid cracking and separation and leaks and annoying shit like that later by doing just a little homework now, why not? Seems stupid not to. While I appreciate your sentiment and the thought to go out and try to educate yourself This is not homework. You are asking for information from people on an Internet forum. Some of whom know something, all know a little, but you have not given enough information to understand your whole project. You have questions that you should be asking an expert in the construction field and you should be paying for those answers. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:18:38 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As far as people saying "it's only residential, LOL". 1. It is residential, as in where my family and I LIVE. Every day. Hopefully for decades. 2. I'm not worried about a post-construction collapse. The odds of that are near zero, even if I found and used the town's worst contractors. But if I can avoid cracking and separation and leaks and annoying shit like that later by doing just a little homework now, why not? Seems stupid not to. No shit Sherlock.  It is "just residential." You're not building a high rise or a bridge, so let's not get carried away like you're building Fort Knox. I understand we all want things done right, but there's "done right," and then there's "my architect told me we need to...." Yeah, ok. Your architect, huh? 
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:22:40 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As far as people saying "it's only residential, LOL". 1. It is residential, as in where my family and I LIVE. Every day. Hopefully for decades. 2. I'm not worried about a post-construction collapse. The odds of that are near zero, even if I found and used the town's worst contractors. But if I can avoid cracking and separation and leaks and annoying shit like that later by doing just a little homework now, why not? Seems stupid not to. The reason we don't suggest a lot of testing and advanced construction methods for residential is not really to dismiss the potential for problems, but because modern construction methods are generally pretty reliable and a homeowner would freak out at the cost involved for testing and such. Testing for example... I do a lot of foundation work, it's my specialty and I've done conference talks and training around the country for large foundations on powerlines. You don't need testing, a big commercial project might use it because it's contract driven and there's a performance requirement that must be met, same with DOT work. For a residence, you could quickly double the cost of your foundation with zero appreciable performance of the foundation. Also, while your construction methods are similar to big projects, your loads from a single residence, even if it's a two-story house, are pretty small. So you risks are less. Cracks in the walls aren't usually as big of a deal as you'd think, the biggest issue is water. I'm assuming (because you have a basement) that the water table isn't an issue for you, so it's a matter of whatever rain/snow runoff collects around the foundation. Make sure you have some slope away from the house, make SURE the gutters drain well away from the house and apply some water sealant to the outside of the foundation before you backfill. Regarding the joint to the existing wall- you can drill 5/8" holes and install 1/2" rebar. You can epoxy it, but depending on the design it's not likely that you'll have a tension load on the bar, so it's just there to pin the walls together so you don't get the new one to deflect a bit compared to the old one. Epoxy is cheap though, and it will make sure you've kept the bar in the old wall without risk of it vibrating out a bit during the pour of the new wall. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:27:01 PM EDT
[#11]
Ignorant micromanagers like the op are why I got out of Residential construction. Much happier in commercial.
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:27:22 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: While I appreciate your sentiment and the thought to go out and try to educate yourself This is not homework. You are asking for information from people on an Internet forum. Some of whom know something, all know a little, but you have not given enough information to understand your whole project. You have questions that you should be asking an expert in the construction field and you should be paying for those answers. Agreed. If you really want to make sure it's right and want to head off potential problems, hire an expert. It's worth it. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 2:45:57 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ignorant micromanagers like the op are why I got out of Residential construction. Much happier in commercial. In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you’re long gone and untouchable? I’m way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 3:11:11 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you’re long gone and untouchable? I’m way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. But apparently you're not wise enough to know that hiring a competent General Contractor would provide you the assurances that your job would be done right. Instead, you think you can come here to ask advice from anonymous people on the internet and roll with that. 
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Posted: 12/31/2021 3:14:25 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you’re long gone and untouchable? I’m way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. Interesting situation, I never minded costumers asking questions, just give an honest answer, stick to it , it's their money paying for things and there is a big difference between residential and commercial. Sometimes things would get out of hand w/ some customers who want a commercial quality job at residential pricing. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 3:17:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you’re long gone and untouchable? I’m way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Ignorant micromanagers like the op are why I got out of Residential construction. Much happier in commercial. In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you’re long gone and untouchable? I’m way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. Meh. Maybe Jhark was a little harsh, but he does have a point. I understand your side also. Just find a good contractor with a good reputation and follow his advice. It'll be all right. On a side note, I watch bad and good contractors every day as a driver. I've watched guys pour a driveway 1" thick over dirt with no rebar and wanted it really wet. Those are the guys to avoid. I've also worked with guys that pour a driveway at 3-4" with rebar in the middle at a 4" slump. Then they finish it the correct way and leave the customer a very good product. I have to humbly suggest you spend your time finding a good contractor (yes, I know you're not doing a driveway) instead of trying to become an expert yourself. Also, the only time I've seen epoxy used is on road cuts (filling in cut out sections of road) because it's DOT required on some roads. But I'm just a dumb truck driver that watches this stuff happen all day, so take it as you will. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 3:18:27 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: But apparently you're not wise enough to know that hiring a competent General Contractor would provide you the assurances that your job would be done right. Instead, you think you can come here to ask advice from anonymous people on the internet and roll with that. /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/gCZW4C8_zpszk9iufhb_GIF-113.gif Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you’re long gone and untouchable? I’m way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. But apparently you're not wise enough to know that hiring a competent General Contractor would provide you the assurances that your job would be done right. Instead, you think you can come here to ask advice from anonymous people on the internet and roll with that. /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/gCZW4C8_zpszk9iufhb_GIF-113.gif We're on the same page here. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 3:41:08 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: While I appreciate your sentiment and the thought to go out and try to educate yourself This is not homework. You are asking for information from people on an Internet forum. Some of whom know something, all know a little, but you have not given enough information to understand your whole project. You have questions that you should be asking an expert in the construction field and you should be paying for those answers. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: As far as people saying "it's only residential, LOL". 1. It is residential, as in where my family and I LIVE. Every day. Hopefully for decades. 2. I'm not worried about a post-construction collapse. The odds of that are near zero, even if I found and used the town's worst contractors. But if I can avoid cracking and separation and leaks and annoying shit like that later by doing just a little homework now, why not? Seems stupid not to. This is not homework. You are asking for information from people on an Internet forum. Some of whom know something, all know a little, but you have not given enough information to understand your whole project. You have questions that you should be asking an expert in the construction field and you should be paying for those answers. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 3:50:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you're long gone and untouchable? I'm way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Ignorant micromanagers like the op are why I got out of Residential construction. Much happier in commercial. While I don't endorse that approach, it wasn't done because the homeowners don't matter. He just wanted to be able to get on with the work without interruption, so we could do a good job. Be involved, but get out of the way and let the professionals do their jobs, so they can do it well. Your "wisdom" can very well bite you in the ass if you try to interject your wisdom too many times. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 8:03:42 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you're long gone and untouchable? I'm way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Ignorant micromanagers like the op are why I got out of Residential construction. Much happier in commercial. In other words, just trust that you give a shit what happens 10 years after you're long gone and untouchable? I'm way too wise for that. Been around long enough and seen enough to know better. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:08:26 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Right the fuck on. I look at some concrete and/or construction work around my place and I think "WTF were they thinking?". The answer: They weren't. Exactly. And how the hell are you going to fix it now? |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:50:50 PM EDT
[#22]
Another thought.
Interview 3rd party construction consultants to watch over your project and your best interest. Interview them and get comfortable with one who has knowledge of the construction industry. This person could act as your inspector and/or construction manager. Your questions could be addressed by this person . Long story short, this would give you some piece of mind during your build. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:00:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. How does one ensure that the tee, which is a cold joint, does not leak? I suggest this or something similar water stop Keep it in the middle of the wall. Start at the the top of the T wall ( past the top 2-3 inches is OK) Run it down the whole new wall finishing just above the other T wall. If your footing is dry use the glue you can buy for it. If it is wet PM me I will tell you how to get around that. Sweep or blow the footing of before you start. I have literally put miles and miles of that down it does prevent water leaks. Now the only place water can now come in is under your footing. That stuff is stupid easy to put on you can do it by yourself. After your walls are stripped and your ready for you floor slab same process just a less thick type of expansion water stop. Consult with your contractor. A buddy did his that way and ended up cracking his slab over the footing. I think he used stolen water stop from a commercial job. I used at 3/8" waterstop under my slab 18 years later and still not cracked or any water I have done at least 50 residential foundations never once was it required to Epoxy the dowels in. On a commercial job oh hell yes. Do not over think this ETA comments such as drilling 5/8" holes for #4 1/2 rebar is Tarded. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:25:46 PM EDT
[#24]
You can get a 3000 psi mix to break at 5500 psi in 36 hours without uping the amount of cement. Just add water reducing admixture. I have broke cylinders for 3000 mix at 7800 psi in 28 days with large amounts of water reducer added. . So if you want to go with a high early mix make sure they add cement and not water reducer. Ask for a mix design, if they do any commericial, state, or federal work they should have one.
A 3000 psi mix at a 2.5 to 3 inch slump with 5% entrained air is all you need for a basement wall. Wet cure for at least 7 days. Backfill when 100% of the compressive strength is reached. This time of year i would worry more about freezing than anything. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:38:47 PM EDT
[#25]
If you want to epoxy the rebar dowels, you'll to drill a 3/4" hole for a 1/2" or 5/8"bar. If you're beating them in dry it's 1:1 and they're not coming back out. To the best of my knowledge rebar is sized on the body, not the ridges, so the true exterior diameter is slightly over the #4/#5 given as the size.
Key ways in the new footing and chipped/cut into the existing wall intersections + expanding waterstop will stop water intrusion. I stopped framing houses in 2007ish and have done primarily commercial concrete formwork since then. I had never framed a basement without it being backfilled. I would have walked off the job over having to push all the fucking full length and 1/2 length i-joists out over the open hole from the far reaches of the excavation. Things may have changed since I stopped doing residential, but it'd be a deal breaker for me if it wasnt backfilled around the foundation. 17'x17' isnt a huge hole so not a lot of unsupported wall span - short of the equipment operator running into a 10" thick wall with a dozer I dont see it deflecting/bowing/ cracking after sitting for 10 days. If you want it bullet proof to match your 10" walls, add a concrete slab over the top of it.    |
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Posted: 1/1/2022 12:50:31 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Exactly. And how the hell are you going to fix it now? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Right the fuck on. I look at some concrete and/or construction work around my place and I think "WTF were they thinking?". The answer: They weren't. Exactly. And how the hell are you going to fix it now? Did you go to the factory to watch your car be built or did you trust the manufacturer? Come on man, give it a rest. The only thing you have to do here is research and find a good contractor in your area. |
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Posted: 1/1/2022 2:47:57 PM EDT
[#27]
OP, it's your money, you do what you want. If you want to increase your knowledge, good for you.
If they were building my car in my front yard, yeah, I would be checking it out. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 1:54:56 PM EDT
[#28]
Are you reinforcing your foundation walls? What size? Spacing? Location?
Or un-reinforced? Vertical & horizontal reinforcing? Two mats or one mat of reinforcing? Where do you locate the vertical reinforcing in relation to the horizontal reinforcing? What are the acceptable minimum clearances for the reinforcing? Will you be using a rock [large aggregate] concrete mix? What maximum size? Or a sand [small aggregate] mix? Or a combination of large & small aggregate? What is the maximum water-cement ration that you will allow? Should water added on site be taken into consideration for the water-cement ratio? Is ASR a concern in your locale? Will you be allowing field added admixtures? Will you allow water to be added in the field? The concrete flows so much better. What will be the air temperature when your concrete is poured? If air temperature at or below freezing, will the concrete mix be heated? Will you allow chloride based or non-chloride based admixture when pouring in freezing temperatures? How high should each lift of concrete be given the temperature, form width, and travel time for a truck? Do you need to modify the mix design if you need to pump the concrete to fill the forms? How long to allow for a truck to be emptied on site? When does the clock start? What size & spacing for the form ties? How often should you space control joints in your wall? Do you need them? What can be done if your concrete freezes while curing? When can you strip the forms? How much honey combing is acceptable? How can honey combing be repaired? What is an acceptable tolerance for plumb for a concrete wall? What is an acceptable tolerance for straightness for a concrete wall? Who is responsible for foundation lay-out and wall lay-out to ensure squareness and correct location? How tall is the wall [top of footing to top of wall]? What is the elevation of the concrete slab compared to the top of footing? This is assuming there is a basement. How thick is the concrete slab? How much expansion material do you need around the concrete slab given any expected temperature change range for the slab? Will the soil be full height to the top of the wall? Does it slope off perpendicular to the wall? Does it slope off parallel to the wall? What type of soil? Clay? Sand? Silt? Some combination? What is the expansion characteristics of the soil? Is it virgin un-disturbed soil? Is a high water table an issue? Is there an exterior drain tile? Where does it drain to? Are you using a water proofing system? Or roll on liquid waterproofing? What will you be protecting your exterior insulation with? How will the treated plate be attached at the top of the wall? Post installed anchors? How close to the edge of the wall can they be located? |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 8:54:01 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you reinforcing your foundation walls? What size? Spacing? Location? Or un-reinforced? Vertical & horizontal reinforcing? Two mats or one mat of reinforcing? Where do you locate the vertical reinforcing in relation to the horizontal reinforcing? What are the acceptable minimum clearances for the reinforcing? Will you be using a rock [large aggregate] concrete mix? What maximum size? Or a sand [small aggregate] mix? Or a combination of large & small aggregate? What is the maximum water-cement ration that you will allow? Should water added on site be taken into consideration for the water-cement ratio? Is ASR a concern in your locale? Will you be allowing field added admixtures? Will you allow water to be added in the field? The concrete flows so much better. What will be the air temperature when your concrete is poured? If air temperature at or below freezing, will the concrete mix be heated? Will you allow chloride based or non-chloride based admixture when pouring in freezing temperatures? How high should each lift of concrete be given the temperature, form width, and travel time for a truck? Do you need to modify the mix design if you need to pump the concrete to fill the forms? How long to allow for a truck to be emptied on site? When does the clock start? What size & spacing for the form ties? How often should you space control joints in your wall? Do you need them? What can be done if your concrete freezes while curing? When can you strip the forms? How much honey combing is acceptable? How can honey combing be repaired? What is an acceptable tolerance for plumb for a concrete wall? What is an acceptable tolerance for straightness for a concrete wall? Who is responsible for foundation lay-out and wall lay-out to ensure squareness and correct location? How tall is the wall [top of footing to top of wall]? What is the elevation of the concrete slab compared to the top of footing? This is assuming there is a basement. How thick is the concrete slab? How much expansion material do you need around the concrete slab given any expected temperature change range for the slab? Will the soil be full height to the top of the wall? Does it slope off perpendicular to the wall? Does it slope off parallel to the wall? What type of soil? Clay? Sand? Silt? Some combination? What is the expansion characteristics of the soil? Is it virgin un-disturbed soil? Is a high water table an issue? Is there an exterior drain tile? Where does it drain to? Are you using a water proofing system? Or roll on liquid waterproofing? What will you be protecting your exterior insulation with? How will the treated plate be attached at the top of the wall? Post installed anchors? How close to the edge of the wall can they be located? Christ, nothing would get done if we had you in charge. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 8:58:31 PM EDT
[#30]
We have some kind of fiber insulation mats on the outside of our poured foundation, with sealer sprayed directly on the concrete
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Posted: 1/2/2022 9:42:40 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Christ, nothing would get done if we had you in charge. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Are you reinforcing your foundation walls? What size? Spacing? Location? Or un-reinforced? Vertical & horizontal reinforcing? Two mats or one mat of reinforcing? Where do you locate the vertical reinforcing in relation to the horizontal reinforcing? What are the acceptable minimum clearances for the reinforcing? Will you be using a rock [large aggregate] concrete mix? What maximum size? Or a sand [small aggregate] mix? Or a combination of large & small aggregate? What is the maximum water-cement ration that you will allow? Should water added on site be taken into consideration for the water-cement ratio? Is ASR a concern in your locale? Will you be allowing field added admixtures? Will you allow water to be added in the field? The concrete flows so much better. What will be the air temperature when your concrete is poured? If air temperature at or below freezing, will the concrete mix be heated? Will you allow chloride based or non-chloride based admixture when pouring in freezing temperatures? How high should each lift of concrete be given the temperature, form width, and travel time for a truck? Do you need to modify the mix design if you need to pump the concrete to fill the forms? How long to allow for a truck to be emptied on site? When does the clock start? What size & spacing for the form ties? How often should you space control joints in your wall? Do you need them? What can be done if your concrete freezes while curing? When can you strip the forms? How much honey combing is acceptable? How can honey combing be repaired? What is an acceptable tolerance for plumb for a concrete wall? What is an acceptable tolerance for straightness for a concrete wall? Who is responsible for foundation lay-out and wall lay-out to ensure squareness and correct location? How tall is the wall [top of footing to top of wall]? What is the elevation of the concrete slab compared to the top of footing? This is assuming there is a basement. How thick is the concrete slab? How much expansion material do you need around the concrete slab given any expected temperature change range for the slab? Will the soil be full height to the top of the wall? Does it slope off perpendicular to the wall? Does it slope off parallel to the wall? What type of soil? Clay? Sand? Silt? Some combination? What is the expansion characteristics of the soil? Is it virgin un-disturbed soil? Is a high water table an issue? Is there an exterior drain tile? Where does it drain to? Are you using a water proofing system? Or roll on liquid waterproofing? What will you be protecting your exterior insulation with? How will the treated plate be attached at the top of the wall? Post installed anchors? How close to the edge of the wall can they be located? I will also say, please make sure your contractors know just how involved you plan on being before you go to contract, so they know what they are getting into. Most guys who know what they are doing have no problem answering questions and keeping the homeowner up to speed with the project, but they should know that you plan on micro-managing the project, with minimal knowledge. Very few, if any, have patience for that. If I were given the option, I would say thank you, but no thank you. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 10:05:41 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you know what you are doing, that list should take you less than five minutes to go through (or give you a few things to confirm), but they are all critical questions. If that overwhelms you, hire someone who knows what all of that means and can put it in action. I think that was the point of the list. I will also say, please make sure your contractors know just how involved you plan on being before you go to contract, so they know what they are getting into. Most guys who know what they are doing have no problem answering questions and keeping the homeowner up to speed with the project, but they should know that you plan on micro-managing the project, with minimal knowledge. Very few, if any, have patience for that. If I were given the option, I would say thank you, but no thank you. In this area, there are two grades of contractor: Total Shit and OK-ish. If you want better, then you're talking about a Main Line guy. ...and I'm talking a legitimate Main Line guy who does 7 and 8-figure projects for people with real money, not for wanna-be type jagoffs like me. Anyway, even if you find the best "OK-ish" guy in your area, you have to watch what he's doing. You have to watch him like a hawk. The moment you let your guard down, he will start cutting corners to save a buck. The trick is to do it in a not-so-obvious way...the way that doesn't involve someone on his crew wanting to bash your skull in with a framing hammer. The other key is to do as much of it as you can on the FRONT end of the project. Get what you want written into the project spec. and let the architect convey it to the contractor. Yea, the guy might mutter under his breath about what a douchebag you must be, but it'll end there. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 10:10:48 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The other key is to do as much of it as you can on the FRONT end of the project. Get what you want written into the project spec. and let the architect convey it to the contractor. Yea, the guy might mutter under his breath about what a douchebag you must be, but it'll end there. Around here, if you involve an architect, some GCs will walk away and those that don't will charge you more for the same job, because it isn't the same job anymore. Architects typically only complicate and inflate the price when it comes to residential work. In a few limited cases they are needed, but that's it. A design/build contractor is the better option, IMO. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 10:23:24 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Christ, nothing would get done if we had you in charge. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Are you reinforcing your foundation walls? What size? Spacing? Location? Or un-reinforced? Vertical & horizontal reinforcing? Two mats or one mat of reinforcing? Where do you locate the vertical reinforcing in relation to the horizontal reinforcing? What are the acceptable minimum clearances for the reinforcing? Will you be using a rock [large aggregate] concrete mix? What maximum size? Or a sand [small aggregate] mix? Or a combination of large & small aggregate? What is the maximum water-cement ration that you will allow? Should water added on site be taken into consideration for the water-cement ratio? Is ASR a concern in your locale? Will you be allowing field added admixtures? Will you allow water to be added in the field? The concrete flows so much better. What will be the air temperature when your concrete is poured? If air temperature at or below freezing, will the concrete mix be heated? Will you allow chloride based or non-chloride based admixture when pouring in freezing temperatures? How high should each lift of concrete be given the temperature, form width, and travel time for a truck? Do you need to modify the mix design if you need to pump the concrete to fill the forms? How long to allow for a truck to be emptied on site? When does the clock start? What size & spacing for the form ties? How often should you space control joints in your wall? Do you need them? What can be done if your concrete freezes while curing? When can you strip the forms? How much honey combing is acceptable? How can honey combing be repaired? What is an acceptable tolerance for plumb for a concrete wall? What is an acceptable tolerance for straightness for a concrete wall? Who is responsible for foundation lay-out and wall lay-out to ensure squareness and correct location? How tall is the wall [top of footing to top of wall]? What is the elevation of the concrete slab compared to the top of footing? This is assuming there is a basement. How thick is the concrete slab? How much expansion material do you need around the concrete slab given any expected temperature change range for the slab? [  ]/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif[/img]Will the soil be full height to the top of the wall? Does it slope off perpendicular to the wall? Does it slope off parallel to the wall?What type of soil? Clay? Sand? Silt? Some combination? What is the expansion characteristics of the soil? Is it virgin un-disturbed soil? Is a high water table an issue? Is there an exterior drain tile? Where does it drain to? Are you using a water proofing system? Or roll on liquid waterproofing? What will you be protecting your exterior insulation with? How will the treated plate be attached at the top of the wall? Post installed anchors? How close to the edge of the wall can they be located? Christ, nothing would get done if we had you in charge. [img]/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif[/img] Providing you some questions for your contractor. This is a list of things along with some of your conccerns that get considered when designing foundations for a commercial job. Some are more important than others and not all questions apply for every project. Your concerns for your project are valid and are typically handled by a good contractor. Good luck with your project. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 10:26:39 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Providing you some questions for your contractor. This is a list of things along with some of your conccerns that get considered when designing foundations for a commercial job. Some are more important than others and not all questions apply for every project. Your concerns for your project are valid and are typically handled by a good contractor. Good luck with your project. In all seriousness, thanks for contributing to the thread. I appreciate it. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 10:27:33 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In this area, there are two grades of contractor: Total Shit and OK-ish. If you want better, then you're talking about a Main Line guy. ...and I'm talking a legitimate Main Line guy who does 7 and 8-figure projects for people with real money, not for wanna-be type jagoffs like me. Anyway, even if you find the best "OK-ish" guy in your area, you have to watch what he's doing. You have to watch him like a hawk. The moment you let your guard down, he will start cutting corners to save a buck. The trick is to do it in a not-so-obvious way...the way that doesn't involve someone on his crew wanting to bash your skull in with a framing hammer. The other key is to do as much of it as you can on the FRONT end of the project. Get what you want written into the project spec. and let the architect convey it to the contractor. Yea, the guy might mutter under his breath about what a douchebag you must be, but it'll end there. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If you know what you are doing, that list should take you less than five minutes to go through (or give you a few things to confirm), but they are all critical questions. If that overwhelms you, hire someone who knows what all of that means and can put it in action. I think that was the point of the list. I will also say, please make sure your contractors know just how involved you plan on being before you go to contract, so they know what they are getting into. Most guys who know what they are doing have no problem answering questions and keeping the homeowner up to speed with the project, but they should know that you plan on micro-managing the project, with minimal knowledge. Very few, if any, have patience for that. If I were given the option, I would say thank you, but no thank you. In this area, there are two grades of contractor: Total Shit and OK-ish. If you want better, then you're talking about a Main Line guy. ...and I'm talking a legitimate Main Line guy who does 7 and 8-figure projects for people with real money, not for wanna-be type jagoffs like me. Anyway, even if you find the best "OK-ish" guy in your area, you have to watch what he's doing. You have to watch him like a hawk. The moment you let your guard down, he will start cutting corners to save a buck. The trick is to do it in a not-so-obvious way...the way that doesn't involve someone on his crew wanting to bash your skull in with a framing hammer. The other key is to do as much of it as you can on the FRONT end of the project. Get what you want written into the project spec. and let the architect convey it to the contractor. Yea, the guy might mutter under his breath about what a douchebag you must be, but it'll end there. This type of atmosphere, you should probably be talking to a local expert. The local expert will likely have a good way to deal with your contractor or maybe just provide consultation services to you to get you up to speed on what/how things should be done on your project. |
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Posted: 1/2/2022 10:35:30 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you reinforcing your foundation walls? What size? Spacing? Location? Or un-reinforced? Vertical & horizontal reinforcing? Two mats or one mat of reinforcing? Where do you locate the vertical reinforcing in relation to the horizontal reinforcing? What are the acceptable minimum clearances for the reinforcing? Will you be using a rock [large aggregate] concrete mix? What maximum size? Or a sand [small aggregate] mix? Or a combination of large & small aggregate? What is the maximum water-cement ration that you will allow? Should water added on site be taken into consideration for the water-cement ratio? Is ASR a concern in your locale? Will you be allowing field added admixtures? Will you allow water to be added in the field? The concrete flows so much better. What will be the air temperature when your concrete is poured? If air temperature at or below freezing, will the concrete mix be heated? Will you allow chloride based or non-chloride based admixture when pouring in freezing temperatures? How high should each lift of concrete be given the temperature, form width, and travel time for a truck? Do you need to modify the mix design if you need to pump the concrete to fill the forms? How long to allow for a truck to be emptied on site? When does the clock start? What size & spacing for the form ties? How often should you space control joints in your wall? Do you need them? What can be done if your concrete freezes while curing? When can you strip the forms? How much honey combing is acceptable? How can honey combing be repaired? What is an acceptable tolerance for plumb for a concrete wall? What is an acceptable tolerance for straightness for a concrete wall? Who is responsible for foundation lay-out and wall lay-out to ensure squareness and correct location? How tall is the wall [top of footing to top of wall]? What is the elevation of the concrete slab compared to the top of footing? This is assuming there is a basement. How thick is the concrete slab? How much expansion material do you need around the concrete slab given any expected temperature change range for the slab? Will the soil be full height to the top of the wall? Does it slope off perpendicular to the wall? Does it slope off parallel to the wall? What type of soil? Clay? Sand? Silt? Some combination? What is the expansion characteristics of the soil? Is it virgin un-disturbed soil? Is a high water table an issue? Is there an exterior drain tile? Where does it drain to? Are you using a water proofing system? Or roll on liquid waterproofing? What will you be protecting your exterior insulation with? How will the treated plate be attached at the top of the wall? Post installed anchors? How close to the edge of the wall can they be located? All good questions . But honestly if a Homeowner came to me with all these questions, they would probably get fired . Because they are going to be a pain in the ass . Glad I don't do residential . |
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Posted: 1/3/2022 12:24:36 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Christ, nothing would get done if we had you in charge. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Are you reinforcing your foundation walls? What size? Spacing? Location? Or un-reinforced? Vertical & horizontal reinforcing? Two mats or one mat of reinforcing? Where do you locate the vertical reinforcing in relation to the horizontal reinforcing? What are the acceptable minimum clearances for the reinforcing? Will you be using a rock [large aggregate] concrete mix? What maximum size? Or a sand [small aggregate] mix? Or a combination of large & small aggregate? What is the maximum water-cement ration that you will allow? Should water added on site be taken into consideration for the water-cement ratio? Is ASR a concern in your locale? Will you be allowing field added admixtures? Will you allow water to be added in the field? The concrete flows so much better. What will be the air temperature when your concrete is poured? If air temperature at or below freezing, will the concrete mix be heated? Will you allow chloride based or non-chloride based admixture when pouring in freezing temperatures? How high should each lift of concrete be given the temperature, form width, and travel time for a truck? Do you need to modify the mix design if you need to pump the concrete to fill the forms? How long to allow for a truck to be emptied on site? When does the clock start? What size & spacing for the form ties? How often should you space control joints in your wall? Do you need them? What can be done if your concrete freezes while curing? When can you strip the forms? How much honey combing is acceptable? How can honey combing be repaired? What is an acceptable tolerance for plumb for a concrete wall? What is an acceptable tolerance for straightness for a concrete wall? Who is responsible for foundation lay-out and wall lay-out to ensure squareness and correct location? How tall is the wall [top of footing to top of wall]? What is the elevation of the concrete slab compared to the top of footing? This is assuming there is a basement. How thick is the concrete slab? How much expansion material do you need around the concrete slab given any expected temperature change range for the slab? Will the soil be full height to the top of the wall? Does it slope off perpendicular to the wall? Does it slope off parallel to the wall? What type of soil? Clay? Sand? Silt? Some combination? What is the expansion characteristics of the soil? Is it virgin un-disturbed soil? Is a high water table an issue? Is there an exterior drain tile? Where does it drain to? Are you using a water proofing system? Or roll on liquid waterproofing? What will you be protecting your exterior insulation with? How will the treated plate be attached at the top of the wall? Post installed anchors? How close to the edge of the wall can they be located? Christ, nothing would get done if we had you in charge. Op, you're proving to be "that guy". I see guys like you at jobs and am glad I'm not the contractor who has to deal with you the entire time. I'm only there for maybe an hour, the contractor and his guys... Those poor bastards having to deal with the crap you're obviously going to toss at them... And by the way, what are your credentials to judge that the best you can find in the area are just "Okay" and you need to watch them? If you know so much, why not just do it yourself? We'll be back to laugh at you in 2 years when your shit is all cracked and falling apart. |
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Posted: 1/3/2022 8:01:43 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In this area, there are two grades of contractor: Total Shit and OK-ish. If you want better, then you're talking about a Main Line guy. ...and I'm talking a legitimate Main Line guy who does 7 and 8-figure projects for people with real money, not for wanna-be type jagoffs like me. Anyway, even if you find the best "OK-ish" guy in your area, you have to watch what he's doing. You have to watch him like a hawk. The moment you let your guard down, he will start cutting corners to save a buck. The trick is to do it in a not-so-obvious way...the way that doesn't involve someone on his crew wanting to bash your skull in with a framing hammer. The other key is to do as much of it as you can on the FRONT end of the project. Get what you want written into the project spec. and let the architect convey it to the contractor. Yea, the guy might mutter under his breath about what a douchebag you must be, but it'll end there. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If you know what you are doing, that list should take you less than five minutes to go through (or give you a few things to confirm), but they are all critical questions. If that overwhelms you, hire someone who knows what all of that means and can put it in action. I think that was the point of the list. I will also say, please make sure your contractors know just how involved you plan on being before you go to contract, so they know what they are getting into. Most guys who know what they are doing have no problem answering questions and keeping the homeowner up to speed with the project, but they should know that you plan on micro-managing the project, with minimal knowledge. Very few, if any, have patience for that. If I were given the option, I would say thank you, but no thank you. In this area, there are two grades of contractor: Total Shit and OK-ish. If you want better, then you're talking about a Main Line guy. ...and I'm talking a legitimate Main Line guy who does 7 and 8-figure projects for people with real money, not for wanna-be type jagoffs like me. Anyway, even if you find the best "OK-ish" guy in your area, you have to watch what he's doing. You have to watch him like a hawk. The moment you let your guard down, he will start cutting corners to save a buck. The trick is to do it in a not-so-obvious way...the way that doesn't involve someone on his crew wanting to bash your skull in with a framing hammer. The other key is to do as much of it as you can on the FRONT end of the project. Get what you want written into the project spec. and let the architect convey it to the contractor. Yea, the guy might mutter under his breath about what a douchebag you must be, but it'll end there. You can watch him like a hawk to your heart's content, but if they truly suck, and you truly don't know what you are doing, it won't end well. Micromanaging with minimal knowledge is never a good thing. Get the best contractor you can and let them do their job. |
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Posted: 1/3/2022 8:36:34 AM EDT
[#40]
A lot of good advice in the thread.
- High Early, low water, harder to work but will setup faster - Do an early break on one of your sample cylinders and you'll know; likely a week is more than sufficient for 80-90% loads. If we had to wait 28 days in the industry we operate in most of the projects would not happen. This is SOP for us. |
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Posted: 1/3/2022 8:48:32 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Going with the assumption that there are only "total shit" and "OKish" contractors out there, you are most likely going to push the "OKish" guys away and end up with the "total shit." You can watch him like a hawk to your heart's content, but if they truly suck, and you truly don't know what you are doing, it won't end well. Micromanaging with minimal knowledge is never a good thing. Get the best contractor you can and let them do their job. Not if we're talking about writing what I want into the project spec. |
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Posted: 1/3/2022 12:36:43 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not if we're talking about writing what I want into the project spec. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Going with the assumption that there are only "total shit" and "OKish" contractors out there, you are most likely going to push the "OKish" guys away and end up with the "total shit." You can watch him like a hawk to your heart's content, but if they truly suck, and you truly don't know what you are doing, it won't end well. Micromanaging with minimal knowledge is never a good thing. Get the best contractor you can and let them do their job. You seem to be set on micromanaging this, which is your right, but be prepared for the possible outcomes. I wish you luck. |
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Posted: 1/3/2022 1:58:59 PM EDT
[#43]
You can't backfill the walls until the floor diaphragm is in place. The wall is not designed to be cantilevered.
A. Foundation 1. Make certain the wall is placed on a proper subgrade. Remove all fat clay and any organic material. Place 6" to 8" of compacted rock on the ground before pouring. 2. Use a minimum of a 1'-0" deep by 2'-0" strip footing under the wall. Run I would (2) #5 continuous for the length of the footing with (1) #5 transverse at 16" oc. 3. Be certain to place corner reinforcing in the strip footings. 4. Place a water stop in the pour. 5. You need to have vertical dowels placed in the footing before the pour. They will match the size and spacing of the vertical rebar in the wall. 6. Epoxy (2) 24" long #5 dowels into the existing strip footing. Lightly grease the part of the bar that will go into the new footing. 7. Look into any drain tiles. I don't know what your area is like. 8. 3500 psi will work out for the footing. B. Wall 1. For a 10" wall you will only need one layer of rebar. #5 at 16" oc each way will work. 2. Place a water stop at any construction joints 3. Be certain to place corner reinforcing at the wall corners. 4. If you are placing an exterior door opening or window opening in the wall, you will need to add extra rebar around the door opening. Don't forget the diagonal rebar in the wall at the corners of the opening. This will prevent diagonal cracks from forming at the corners. 5. Add extra reinforcing above any openings. |
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