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Posted: 4/23/2024 10:46:26 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 2JokersWild: So, I'm trying to understand this. In Bambu Labs theres two tabs along the top, Prepare and Device. If I click Prepare thats where you do all the setuip for the model you want to print. Specifically you can define the filaments available to use for the print. However in the Device pane in the middle right you can see the filaments loaded in the AMS. Any Bambu filament is auto sensed but others need to be manually defined. Whats throwing me off is whether theres a way to sync the filaments configured in the Prepare tab to the filaments loaded in the AMS in the Device tab. Its a bit odd to me these filaments dont sync up between the two tabs. Also, it looks like TPU isnt officially supported in the AMS? Anyone have experience with this? Do you just load TPU and configure it as standard PLA in the AMS and use TPU settings in the Prepare tab to get the right print settings for TPU? There is a sync button that syncs what the AMS is reporting. Unfortunately it is usually generic unless there is a way to add custom filaments that can update the drop downs on the printer. Something tells me there is no way to do that. |
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Posted: 4/23/2024 8:55:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Tholo]
[#2]
First, name the filament in that slot on the prepare tab.
Then run the calibrations from orca or bambu slicer. The pressure advance is saved to the machine Then run the flow calibration. That will create a filament setting by appending calibrated_SlotN to the name you defined. I usually just make sure my custom filament setting has the PA and flow rate values updated, and delete the autocratic names. Filament that is calibrated on that machine is available in the ams dropdown at the bottom. If you can't find what I'm talking about, I'll go to computer later and put up some screenshots |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 10:11:49 AM EDT
[#3]
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 10:36:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Just found this thread. I am about to buy a X1 with the AMS for work. I am tired of constantly fiddling with my Ender 5+. When it works it works, but damn if I dont spend a lot of time making it work.
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Posted: 5/7/2024 11:42:19 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tholo: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/246073/Screenshot_20240507_091011_jpg-3207813.JPG If you're on the fence and near a microcenter, these are 10% off. Killer deal on the x1c if you have the card. |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 1:16:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Had my first broken piece of filament in my P1S with AMS - in general it should not be difficult to locate and remove the broken-off piece (unless perhaps it is lodged within the hot end assembly), the only wrinkle, however, is that my printer is not sitting in the easiest place for me to access it (but I will need to address that sooner or later anyway in order to hook up my filament dryer).
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Posted: 5/7/2024 3:41:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tnertb: The ABS thread made me think of 2 new filamanets Bambu has started selling recently. Not sure how heavily they marketed it in case you guys didn't see it. ABS-GF https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/abs-gf and more color options than standard black/grey in the PA6-GF world as well https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pa6-gf I've been printing with the PA6-GF and the ABS-GF, and I love them both. Right now you have to use the beta Bambu Slicer to get the profiles, otherwise you'll have to import the profiles and run it off the back hook rather than the AMS as neither Orca nor regular Bambu slicer will let you proceed with printing with a mismatched type. Perhaps there's a workaround I'm not familiar with, but the price point of the ABS-GF is very reasonable, and the PA6-GF is great for the things that need it. Still figuring out how I want to anneal the PA6-GF, there are examples out there of hot oven, boiling water, or hot oil, but I'll probably try them all and figure out what works best. |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 3:43:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JedMasterson]
[#8]
Also, the ABS-GF does a good job of resisting warping. I ran a small mountain bike tool yesterday with it, and while I would ordinarily have the door shut for the ABS, I accidentally left the door of my P1S wide open, on a print that would ordinarily have warped badly. The additional rigidity of the -GF apparently meant that the warping was much less of an issue.
I just did this on my P1S, hardened nozzle. The new Bambu PA6-GF for the dark parts, the ABS-GF for the body. I was very pleased with how well the printer did both of them, and I would say the hardened nozzle is a must-have for doing these materials.  Attached FileIt actually sounds really good, much better than the PLA Silk one I printed, and as a bonus, I don't think my car can get hot enough in the summer to unmake the new one, unlike the PLA instrument. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2024 12:36:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: stewie97]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By targetworks: Had my first broken piece of filament in my P1S with AMS - in general it should not be difficult to locate and remove the broken-off piece (unless perhaps it is lodged within the hot end assembly), the only wrinkle, however, is that my printer is not sitting in the easiest place for me to access it (but I will need to address that sooner or later anyway in order to hook up my filament dryer). I am redoing my setup as well - I have 5 printers on a storage rack with no real easy way to get behind them. Finding broken filiment in the middle printer this morning wasn't easy :) https://www.instagram.com/p/C6tuLNhu4xJ/ |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 12:48:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JedMasterson: Also, the ABS-GF does a good job of resisting warping. I ran a small mountain bike tool yesterday with it, and while I would ordinarily have the door shut for the ABS, I accidentally left the door of my P1S wide open, on a print that would ordinarily have warped badly. The additional rigidity of the -GF apparently meant that the warping was much less of an issue. I just did this on my P1S, hardened nozzle. The new Bambu PA6-GF for the dark parts, the ABS-GF for the body. I was very pleased with how well the printer did both of them, and I would say the hardened nozzle is a must-have for doing these materials. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/584398/violin_png-3208383.JPG It actually sounds really good, much better than the PLA Silk one I printed, and as a bonus, I don't think my car can get hot enough in the summer to unmake the new one, unlike the PLA instrument. You 3D printed a freakin' violin!? Okay. Thats awesome. I need to know more. |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 1:00:29 PM EDT
[#11]
Hovalin Design site
The strings do matter, I'm running some cheap strings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Y6BJI and guitar-style tuners: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIC4QJO Then the carbon fiber rod can be had pretty cheaply from a couple places. The Bambu P1/X1/A1 build volume can't do the body in one go, so you have to do the body in three parts. That said, I used a 3d printing pen with a bit of the ABS-GF to weld it all together *after* stringing it up and letting it settle into the load of the strings. All told, it's like taking a stock Miata to track day. It's not the fastest, or the best looking, but if you're having fun then it's the right tool. I've got an nicer electric I can play if I want to, so the Hovalin fils a niche that I enjoy. That said, the ABS-GF is no joke, it's a good value and prints really well. The PA6-GF is the easiest I've done that gives good results (including -GF and -CF). |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 3:57:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JedMasterson]
[#12]
To share some of the things that I've learned from my time with my P1S and A1Mini, with my background in 3d printing coming from a mess of self-built vorons and an overbuilt Ender 3:
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Posted: 5/23/2024 9:08:14 PM EDT
[#13]
I pulled the trigger and ordered the AMS, in spite of my trepidation about it.
I bought a flexi possum from cults, and I just have to do the color version. Also had to find alternates to the designers colors. I'll wait til the AMS ships before I order those though. |
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Posted: 5/23/2024 10:27:32 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcav8r: I pulled the trigger and ordered the AMS, in spite of my trepidation about it. I bought a flexi possum from cults, and I just have to do the color version. Also had to find alternates to the designers colors. I'll wait til the AMS ships before I order those though. Don't forget to print the dessicant containers for the AMS. I'd recommend ASA. Kets you dry them out in a dryer without having to remove them from the container. |
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Posted: 5/24/2024 11:17:24 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Don't forget to print the dessicant containers for the AMS. I'd recommend ASA. Kets you dry them out in a dryer without having to remove them from the container. |
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Posted: 5/25/2024 1:39:43 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Saker13: A desiccant container with a humidity meter in the center slot helps as well. It may not be the most accurate (CN Amazon item) but it helps you know when the desiccant needs to be changed. Indeed. Should have mentioned that. Mine have that. 
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AL, USA
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Posted: 5/25/2024 2:00:24 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcav8r: I pulled the trigger and ordered the AMS, in spite of my trepidation about it. I bought a flexi possum from cults, and I just have to do the color version. Also had to find alternates to the designers colors. I'll wait til the AMS ships before I order those though. If anything I use the AMS more to get rid of the little bits of filament I have left on rolls. I'll load it up with all the same color filament and print something to use the filament up. |
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Posted: 5/25/2024 4:43:22 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By memsu: If anything I use the AMS more to get rid of the little bits of filament I have left on rolls. I'll load it up with all the same color filament and print something to use the filament up. I was doing that with the single spool option. The difference was that I have to manually switch the spools when the machine tells me. |
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Posted: 5/27/2024 11:53:06 AM EDT
[#19]
Put the AMS on the left or right of machine? Will the tubing be long enough?
It's due Wednesday, been printing the desicciant cups, a hygrometer holder, and cardboard spool rings. Silica gel, hygrometers, filament due today (through USPS, on a holiday, no less!). |
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Posted: 5/27/2024 11:55:16 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcav8r: Put the AMS on the left or right of machine? Will the tubing be long enough? It's due Wednesday, been printing the desicciant cups, a hygrometer holder, and cardboard spool rings. Silica gel, hygrometers, filament due today (through USPS, on a holiday, no less!). Generally recommended to place it on top of or to the right of the printer. 
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Posted: 5/27/2024 12:02:16 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcav8r: Put the AMS on the left or right of machine? Will the tubing be long enough? It's due Wednesday, been printing the desicciant cups, a hygrometer holder, and cardboard spool rings. Silica gel, hygrometers, filament due today (through USPS, on a holiday, no less!).  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/27/2024 1:09:51 PM EDT
[#22]
Can't put mine on top or above without major rearranging, as mines on a wire shelf rack, with filament on top rack.
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Posted: 5/27/2024 1:38:49 PM EDT
[#23]
I have the AMS on top, but there is a shelf just to the right where I can relocate it when going in the top cover.
If anyone's looking for a standalone table, you need about 18" x 24" and this one fit in well for my industrial-style storage room. Mostly tools etc fit in a basket on the lower shelf.  
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MT, USA
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Posted: 5/27/2024 3:41:29 PM EDT
[#24]
2 AMS on the right, poop goes bottom left, upper left is for when I need to use an external spool.
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Posted: 5/27/2024 8:58:41 PM EDT
[#25]
My AMS is on the top of my X1C, but I printed a riser and storage solution. Along with a Unifi camera holder. And my pic is rotated but you get the idea.....
 Attached File |
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Posted: 5/27/2024 9:24:06 PM EDT
[#26]
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MT, USA
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Posted: 6/3/2024 3:24:34 PM EDT
[#27]
2nd anniversary sale is coming up in 2 days if any of you are still on the fence.
 https://us.store.bambulab.com/pages/2nd-anniversary-sale |
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Posted: 6/3/2024 8:58:56 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tnertb: 2nd anniversary sale is coming up in 2 days if any of you are still on the fence. https://us.store.bambulab.com/pages/2nd-anniversary-sale |
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Posted: 6/3/2024 10:01:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Saker13: I'll be hitting up that filament sale, no doubt. Hoping to see the same pricing at my local Bambu retailer, but not holding my breath. My local Microcenter mirrors Bambus prices. FWIW. |
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Posted: 6/4/2024 9:10:12 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: My local Microcenter mirrors Bambus prices. FWIW. BTW, Gigaparts is good if you need an RPi5, or RPi4. They ship and are pretty stellar. |
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Posted: 6/4/2024 9:17:38 PM EDT
[#31]
Odd issue I had with my X1C with AMS. Slot 3 was PLA Grey, Slot 4 was PLA red. The AMS would not identify slot 3. I set it as BBL Grey PLA in Bambu Studio.
Started the print and it failed within 2 layers. Cancelled the print. Rebooted the X1C and swapped the red and grey spools in the AMS. It recognized both and is now printing the paper towel holder with no issue. Good times. Still beats using paper to level my Ender3V2. |
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Posted: 6/26/2024 12:57:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: davewvu86]
[#32]
Alright, ordered the P1S combo, some spare parts, a bunch of filament, and some science kits for the kids.
Can't wait for it to arrive. In the meantime, what should I do with my old Ender 3v2? Donate it? |
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Posted: 6/26/2024 1:01:28 PM EDT
[#33]
If you have the space keep the old printer as having an extra would be handy.
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Posted: 6/26/2024 1:23:46 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By davewvu86: Alright, ordered the P1S combo, some spare parts, a bunch of filament, and some science kits for the kids. Can't wait for it to arrive. In the meantime, what should I do with my old Ender 3v2? Donate it? I ended up donating my Prusa to a local makerspace. |
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Posted: 6/26/2024 8:57:54 PM EDT
[#35]
I sold my old 3 and 5 to a guy who ran a print farm. If you've got spares on hand then there's little reason to keep a spare machine IMHO.
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Posted: 6/26/2024 10:03:19 PM EDT
[#36]
Just got my first AMS.
Any recommendations on upgrades to it, or just run it as is? |
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Posted: 6/26/2024 10:33:24 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bulldog1967: Just got my first AMS. Any recommendations on upgrades to it, or just run it as is? Pretty stock works. Internal dessicant containers, the center one with a hydrometer. Couple sizes of door shims in case you get some big rolls that need the top checked open. May need some spool rims depending on the types you're using. Y-splitter thingy so you can still use the external feed easily. Word to the wise, if you're not using it for a while, remove the filament form all the feeder lines. If the humidity gets high, the filament like PLA can get brittle and breaks off in the AMS port when you try to pull it out. Can't move it either way from there, locks up the whole line. I'm running only with 2 slots now and really need to disassemble the whole thing to clean out. |
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Posted: 6/27/2024 12:32:02 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bulldog1967: Just got my first AMS. Any recommendations on upgrades to it, or just run it as is? Print some tubes with screw on caps for dessecciant, has 2mm slots on the sides. They go inside the hub in the spool, adding a little weight for traction, and keep em dry. I haven't printed in over a week, in humid weather, and it's still only 10% humidity in the AMS. |
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Posted: 6/27/2024 5:42:20 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Pretty stock works. Internal dessicant containers, the center one with a hydrometer. Couple sizes of door shims in case you get some big rolls that need the top checked open. May need some spool rims depending on the types you're using. Y-splitter thingy so you can still use the external feed easily. Word to the wise, if you're not using it for a while, remove the filament form all the feeder lines. If the humidity gets high, the filament like PLA can get brittle and breaks off in the AMS port when you try to pull it out. Can't move it either way from there, locks up the whole line. I'm running only with 2 slots now and really need to disassemble the whole thing to clean out. Can you elaborate on this? Do you need this part to be able to easily use filament outside of the AMS, such as TPU? |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 6/27/2024 6:05:51 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By davewvu86: Can you elaborate on this? Do you need this part to be able to easily use filament outside of the AMS, such as TPU? https://makerworld.com/en/search/models?keyword=splitter Pretty much what you're thinking. |
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Posted: 6/27/2024 10:04:57 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bulldog1967: Just got my first AMS. Any recommendations on upgrades to it, or just run it as is? For "normal" size 1 kg spools, the AMS was pretty reliable for me. I just printed the Hydro Pro found on printables. This project replaces the injection molded innards with printed parts and new rollers to allow using a larger variety of spools. I like and have a lot of Atomic filament, and I did this to make their spools reliable in my AMS. Otherwise they'd rub on the cover. A new spool rubs on the feeder motor because they fill them to the brim. Not necessarily something I would have wanted to do on the 1st day though. I only have a few hours on it. Desiccant boxes that fit between the feed motors, with a hygrometer mount. These fit the stock AMS. These go with the Hydra Pro as front hold downs/stabilizers. Desiccant holders to weigh down the spools seem to help keep the spool spinning smoothly. For "normal" size 1 kg spools, the AMS was pretty reliable for me. I ran a wedge shaped lid spacer for most of it's stock life. The AMS didn't seal as well, and didn't stay as dry, but the larger spools usually worked. |
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Posted: 6/27/2024 10:08:33 PM EDT
[#42]
Thanks
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Posted: 6/27/2024 10:10:10 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By davewvu86: Can you elaborate on this? Do you need this part to be able to easily use filament outside of the AMS, such as TPU? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By davewvu86: Originally Posted By mPisi: Pretty stock works. Internal dessicant containers, the center one with a hydrometer. Couple sizes of door shims in case you get some big rolls that need the top checked open. May need some spool rims depending on the types you're using. Y-splitter thingy so you can still use the external feed easily. Word to the wise, if you're not using it for a while, remove the filament form all the feeder lines. If the humidity gets high, the filament like PLA can get brittle and breaks off in the AMS port when you try to pull it out. Can't move it either way from there, locks up the whole line. I'm running only with 2 slots now and really need to disassemble the whole thing to clean out. Can you elaborate on this? Do you need this part to be able to easily use filament outside of the AMS, such as TPU? I print nylon from a dryer instead of the AMS, so it's nice to feed directly from there without having to unhook the AMS bowden tube. My slicer sits in a different room. The AMS will unload a lot of filament onto the floor if you forget to switch it back. Then I wonder why the print took so long to start and go check on it. |
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Posted: 6/28/2024 7:48:49 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tholo: I tried several printed ones, but never got one to feed smoothly. I spent more on fittings than the 4 into 1 splitter bambu sells for $4.99. Buy 10 and get free shipping! I print nylon from a dryer instead of the AMS, so it's nice to feed directly from there without having to unhook the AMS bowden tube. My slicer sits in a different room. The AMS will unload a lot of filament onto the floor if you forget to switch it back. Then I wonder why the print took so long to start and go check on it. I can't understand why Bambu doesn't have a timer on the load process where it stops if it doesn't see filament arriving downstream from the AMS in X seconds. I didn't get the tube all the way seated in the back of the AMS one time, and the filament pushed it out. The silly AMS was just happily dumping yards of filament out on the floor. |
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Posted: 6/28/2024 1:56:03 PM EDT
[#45]
Okay, sounds like I'll stick with stuff that works in the AMS for a bit and read up on the splitter issue. Thanks for the heads up on the problem.
It would be awesome if we could use TPU in the AMS. You could make integral bumpers for things like phone cases, washers for mounting points. |
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Posted: 6/29/2024 12:19:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#46]
I apologize for being a noob and asking already answered questions. If i want to be able to do nylon from the outset am i wasting my time buying the p1s vs the x1. The money’s not really a problem but id rather not overspend if i don’t have to.
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Posted: 6/29/2024 12:26:23 AM EDT
[#47]
The p1s will do nylon.
If you want to do carbon fiber filled nylon, get a hardened nozzle and extruder gears for the p1s. The x1c comes with those. Also get an active dryer to dry the nylon and keep it dry while printing. It's not optional. I like the p1s at work. |
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Posted: 6/29/2024 12:30:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tholo: The p1s will do nylon. If you want to do carbon fiber filled nylon, get a hardened nozzle and extruder gears for the p1s. The x1c comes with those. Also get an active dryer to dry the nylon and keep it dry while printing. It's not optional. I like the p1s at work. I was thinking glass filled nylon 6. |
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Posted: 6/29/2024 3:40:24 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Keekleberrys: I was thinking glass filled nylon 6. Glass is even harder on the extruder gears and nozzle than carbon. |
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Posted: 6/29/2024 2:27:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chevrofreak: Glass is even harder on the extruder gears and nozzle than carbon. Am i being too ambitious/unrealistic by wanting to be able to do that? |
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