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Posted: 2/8/2017 10:44:30 AM EST
[#1]
I was having a bad day before this.
I swear to god this post just made my day. I am seriously in the best mood now. freedom. |
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Posted: 2/8/2017 10:48:36 AM EST
[#2]
Would the ATF count it as a new suppressor if you melted down this one and used the same plastic to reprint it?
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Posted: 2/8/2017 10:59:17 AM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sbye:
Would the ATF count it as a new suppressor if you melted down this one and used the same plastic to reprint it? Why don't you write them a letter and find out? Or, on second thought, you could just take the common sense approach that every reasonable person would take if they have the ability to 3D print their own cans. (That's truly not intended to sound snarky).  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/8/2017 11:01:00 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AJ_Dual:
A different video of a laser/metal deposition machine tilting the bed to make unsupported overhangs as it rotated the piece is exactly what made me wonder why someone hasn't applied the idea to a "regular" polymer/filament 3D printer to make better unsupported overhangs. Skip to 00:30 to see where it tilts the table so the angled part is vertical at the actual deposition point.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKnlmfuMSgoMy guess is adding a 4th and 5th axis adds cost. More stepper motors, more controllers on the main board, more hardware. It also becomes much harder to zero a 5 axis machine and it really needs error mapping to compensate the machine movements. For the error mapping to work servos and scales need to be used for feedback to the controller. Current 3 axis machines use cheaper stepper motors and use limit switches to find zero locations be fore a build starts. The z height is set by counting steps of of the zero limit. Only higher end 3 axis have servos or scales. |
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Posted: 2/8/2017 11:14:51 AM EST
[Last Edit: AJ_Dual]
[#5]
I understand what you're saying about the error correction. I'm sure the feedback for that on professional machines is dynamic, and very precise.
However, for consumer hobbyist needs, when there's very capable Chicom kit printers out there for as little as $200, not counting R&D efforts, seems reasonable someone could produce a bed with extra axes for maybe $1000 if a little Chinese Honeybadger attitude was thrown at the problem. 
And for a ghetto sort of error correction and position tracking, I'm thinking about periodic error correction, like they use in motor driven star-tracking amatuer teloscopes. You watch a guide star through crosshairs, and you keep steering them back onto the star when it drifts, and the controller memorizes your adjustments and repeats them, figuring that it's a good approximation of cancelling out any drift or wobble in the gearing and motors etc. Tedious, but perhaps you could print some sort of calibration object that slews through the range of different axes, and you could stop the printer occasionally, hit buttons to nudge the extruder tip back over if it drifts, and it remembers those adjustments to stay dialed in. I also think that it might be possible some IR sensor not too different than an optical mouse's could watch for the previous layer, compare the head position to where it actually is, compare that to the ideal path laid out by the slicer's G-code, and nudge it back over occasionally. I guess I could see potential for some sort of compounding error that keeps drifting, but I bet some egghead could figure out a way to prevent that. Like a camera and tracker LED's on the print bed's corners or something. |
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Posted: 2/8/2017 12:17:11 PM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JBowles:
There's a bit of an ITAR minefield to wade through. Straight up prints or .stl files will likely never be posted publicly unless someone wants to fund a crusade against the State Department. I'll get cut aways posted eventually. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JBowles:
Originally Posted By ARHank:
Originally Posted By DvlDog:
So uh... Howabout that file? +1 I'll get cut aways posted eventually. We need a separate team forum open only to verified US citizens for stuff like this. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 2/12/2017 4:11:17 PM EST
[#7]
Naw, that dam already spilleth over
Tons of stuff posted and no way they can get on top of it. 3d printed gun stuff |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 5:16:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: ShooterPatriot]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By oetkbyetdia:
Naw, that dam already spilleth over
Tons of stuff posted and no way they can get on top of it. 3d printed gun stuff Agreed, but as demonstrated in this thread people are still scared to post stuff because they fear the state department will come after them. Personally I don't think it's an issue any more. 1. The dams busted, as you state and 2. It's a new administration. But it's still stifling free speech and the sharing of information as demonstrated in this thread. |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 12:44:53 AM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1Bigdog:
Do you need a manufacturer's license? Nope. He's a "maker" so he only needs to do a Form 1. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 2/13/2017 9:34:12 PM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ShooterPatriot:
Agreed, but as demonstrated in this thread people are still scared to post stuff because they fear the state department will come after them. Personally I don't think it's an issue any more. 1. The dams busted, as you state and 2. It's a new administration. But it's still stifling free speech and the sharing of information as demonstrated in this thread. That is prob true. Pussies
I guess if you are going to 3d print one, the drawing part is prob going to be the easiest part. Hell, even I could draw one up in less than 5min with my youtube degree in cad drafting 
Even for somebody with zero cad exp, a 1/2hr on youtube should git er dun. I wonder if the cops would be involved if somebody tried printing at one of those maker space things? I would guess there would be some blading for sure. Not sure on legalities, and prob not legal, but there might also be the 3dhubs option. |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 6:56:21 AM EST
[Last Edit: Meche_03]
[#11]
Technically, printing suppressor parts through a 3dhub would be illegal unless said hub was a type 7 FFL, and class 2 SOT.....If I recall right and they could not transfer those parts to an individual for assembly unless they too had similar licenses and permits.
You could probably get away with it as most do the know how the NFA works. You could just make storage cups, which I have seen done. The geometry for a baffel looks similar to a solid fuel model rocket nozzle.
My first attempt at a display piece. No working mount and I think I want to place a washer in the part while it's printing to make a blast baffel.  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 7:19:45 AM EST
[Last Edit: AeroE]
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AJ_Dual:
I understand what you're saying about the error correction. I'm sure the feedback for that on professional machines is dynamic, and very precise. However, for consumer hobbyist needs, when there's very capable Chicom kit printers out there for as little as $200, not counting R&D efforts, seems reasonable someone could produce a bed with extra axes for maybe $1000 if a little Chinese Honeybadger attitude was thrown at the problem.
And for a ghetto sort of error correction and position tracking, I'm thinking about periodic error correction, like they use in motor driven star-tracking amatuer teloscopes. You watch a guide star through crosshairs, and you keep steering them back onto the star when it drifts, and the controller memorizes your adjustments and repeats them, figuring that it's a good approximation of cancelling out any drift or wobble in the gearing and motors etc. Tedious, but perhaps you could print some sort of calibration object that slews through the range of different axes, and you could stop the printer occasionally, hit buttons to nudge the extruder tip back over if it drifts, and it remembers those adjustments to stay dialed in. I also think that it might be possible some IR sensor not too different than an optical mouse's could watch for the previous layer, compare the head position to where it actually is, compare that to the ideal path laid out by the slicer's G-code, and nudge it back over occasionally. I guess I could see potential for some sort of compounding error that keeps drifting, but I bet some egghead could figure out a way to prevent that. Like a camera and tracker LED's on the print bed's corners or something. Most lay persons have unwarranted confidence in the integrity of printed materials and the apparent "simplicity" of the process. There is no dynamic adjustment on the fly, the machine follows the programmed path, speed, and rate of feed. Each material uses a different process with different strategies. Besides overhangs or other features that require scaffolding, the parts are heavily anisotropic and especially weak under loads in the z direction. The parts are porous, whether it is visible, or not. All that might not matter for low performance consumer products or disposable articles that work well enough for a short period, but they should not be buried in hard to access critical systems just now. (The F18 has ECS ducts fabricated from SLS nylon with plenty of excess apparent strength. The enormous coefficient of thermal expansion requires extra steps in the design of the assembly.) Metal parts are a tease, with the same issues as plastic, but more critical to solve and remain affordable. Laser consolidation of the layup is promising, slow, and expensive, and in the case of titanium alloys, an inert atmosphere is required. (Posted from my phone.) |
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Posted: 2/14/2017 10:40:00 AM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroE:
Most lay persons have unwarranted confidence in the integrity of printed materials and the apparent "simplicity" of the process. There is no dynamic adjustment on the fly, the machine follows the programmed path, speed, and rate of feed. Each material uses a different process with different strategies. Besides overhangs or other features that require scaffolding, the parts are heavily anisotropic and especially weak under loads in the z direction. The parts are porous, whether it is visible, or not. All that might not matter for low performance consumer products or disposable articles that work well enough for a short period, but they should not be buried in hard to access critical systems just now. (The F18 has ECS ducts fabricated from SLS nylon with plenty of excess apparent strength. The enormous coefficient of thermal expansion requires extra steps in the design of the assembly.) Metal parts are a tease, with the same issues as plastic, but more critical to solve and remain affordable. Laser consolidation of the layup is promising, slow, and expensive, and in the case of titanium alloys, an inert atmosphere is required. (Posted from my phone.) No arguments here. Layer bonding and delamination etc. really requires you understand all your settings, pullback, extruder temperature, bed temperature. Even the cooling fans on the print heads, the fractional ounce of pressure from the air flow can create drift in larger prints. Although even just in the hobbyist community, I see more and more attention being paid to details like this. Such as multi-step or multi-part prints where temperatures are altered at pre-programmed stages in the print for the best adhesion and consistency. Or where extrusion speed, or circumference wall layer thicknesses change depending on what point in the part's print it is. And also different infill quantities for the grid or honeycomb density, to maximize strength where needed, and minimize weight throughout. So while it's all still just pre-programmed, manual choices set up on the part of the user, and not at all dynamic, I can see most all of these tweaks getting written into slicer code and printer firmware in the near future. I also see some potential for improvements even for just regular home/consumer low-stress parts if a 3D printer were to go multi-axis, and the slicer software able to take advantage of that, with two or three print heads, I could also plastic printed parts having a great deal more strength. Mixing PLA, ABS, and Nylon for where they have the best mechanical qualities, and something like the OP's .22 suppressor getting vertical strings layered in along the long axis of the suppressor, or even alternate layers of counter-wound print paths etc. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 8:49:23 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AJ_Dual:
No arguments here. Layer bonding and delamination etc. really requires you understand all your settings, pullback, extruder temperature, bed temperature. Even the cooling fans on the print heads, the fractional ounce of pressure from the air flow can create drift in larger prints. Although even just in the hobbyist community, I see more and more attention being paid to details like this. Such as multi-step or multi-part prints where temperatures are altered at pre-programmed stages in the print for the best adhesion and consistency. Or where extrusion speed, or circumference wall layer thicknesses change depending on what point in the part's print it is. And also different infill quantities for the grid or honeycomb density, to maximize strength where needed, and minimize weight throughout. So while it's all still just pre-programmed, manual choices set up on the part of the user, and not at all dynamic, I can see most all of these tweaks getting written into slicer code and printer firmware in the near future. I also see some potential for improvements even for just regular home/consumer low-stress parts if a 3D printer were to go multi-axis, and the slicer software able to take advantage of that, with two or three print heads, I could also plastic printed parts having a great deal more strength. Mixing PLA, ABS, and Nylon for where they have the best mechanical qualities, and something like the OP's .22 suppressor getting vertical strings layered in along the long axis of the suppressor, or even alternate layers of counter-wound print paths etc. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Most lay persons have unwarranted confidence in the integrity of printed materials and the apparent "simplicity" of the process. There is no dynamic adjustment on the fly, the machine follows the programmed path, speed, and rate of feed. Each material uses a different process with different strategies. Besides overhangs or other features that require scaffolding, the parts are heavily anisotropic and especially weak under loads in the z direction. The parts are porous, whether it is visible, or not. All that might not matter for low performance consumer products or disposable articles that work well enough for a short period, but they should not be buried in hard to access critical systems just now. (The F18 has ECS ducts fabricated from SLS nylon with plenty of excess apparent strength. The enormous coefficient of thermal expansion requires extra steps in the design of the assembly.) Metal parts are a tease, with the same issues as plastic, but more critical to solve and remain affordable. Laser consolidation of the layup is promising, slow, and expensive, and in the case of titanium alloys, an inert atmosphere is required. (Posted from my phone.) No arguments here. Layer bonding and delamination etc. really requires you understand all your settings, pullback, extruder temperature, bed temperature. Even the cooling fans on the print heads, the fractional ounce of pressure from the air flow can create drift in larger prints. Although even just in the hobbyist community, I see more and more attention being paid to details like this. Such as multi-step or multi-part prints where temperatures are altered at pre-programmed stages in the print for the best adhesion and consistency. Or where extrusion speed, or circumference wall layer thicknesses change depending on what point in the part's print it is. And also different infill quantities for the grid or honeycomb density, to maximize strength where needed, and minimize weight throughout. So while it's all still just pre-programmed, manual choices set up on the part of the user, and not at all dynamic, I can see most all of these tweaks getting written into slicer code and printer firmware in the near future. I also see some potential for improvements even for just regular home/consumer low-stress parts if a 3D printer were to go multi-axis, and the slicer software able to take advantage of that, with two or three print heads, I could also plastic printed parts having a great deal more strength. Mixing PLA, ABS, and Nylon for where they have the best mechanical qualities, and something like the OP's .22 suppressor getting vertical strings layered in along the long axis of the suppressor, or even alternate layers of counter-wound print paths etc. We have to treat every part as unique. Sometimes the orientation required is not intuitive in order to get the strong direction aligned with the major load direction, and sometimes the parts are layed up at an angle in an attempt to improve the strength in two directions at the expense of one. My opinion is that we need to work harder on designs with imbedded reinforcing features for strength and stiffness. |
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Posted: 7/10/2017 12:13:04 AM EST
[#15]
How is it holding up?
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Posted: 7/10/2017 12:49:46 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Willmar:
I think the gist is, due to material costs, it's essentially disposable. I could be wrong, though. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Willmar:
Originally Posted By UV18:
A solid .22 suppressor...... cleaning must not be an option  I think the gist is, due to material costs, it's essentially disposable. I could be wrong, though.
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GA, USA
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Posted: 7/10/2017 2:03:01 AM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shotar:
Make the brass thread adapter the serialized component. Why not? |
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Posted: 7/10/2017 7:59:12 AM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FullAccess:
How is it holding up? I did whip up an RMR mount for the Mk IV 22/45 Lite host gun, some tall co-witness iron sights are next on my list while I wait for Ruger to do there recall thing on the frame. 
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Posted: 7/10/2017 8:02:30 AM EST
[Last Edit: JBowles]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nickm664688:
+1 Why not? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nickm664688:
Originally Posted By shotar:
Make the brass thread adapter the serialized component. Why not? |
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Posted: 7/10/2017 1:59:13 PM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kuraki:
Inconel is expensive no matter what the law says Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kuraki:
Originally Posted By 10mm_:
LOL @ all the people who still think cans will be expensive if the HPA passes. Inconel is expensive no matter what the law says |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 8/7/2020 8:47:25 PM EST
[#21]
@Jbowles
How’s it holding up? I’m taking advantage of the no archive. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 8/7/2020 8:53:26 PM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UV18: A solid .22 suppressor...... cleaning must not be an option I have an AAC pilot, ~15 years old, still running strong. |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 9:10:18 PM EST
[Last Edit: JBowles]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By billth777: @Jbowles How's it holding up? I'm taking advantage of the no archive.  |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 9:20:40 PM EST
[#24]
Cool thread resurrection
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USA
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Posted: 8/7/2020 9:40:35 PM EST
[Last Edit: CTM1]
[#25]
Completely forgot about this thread. Never asked but did you make the bore a little larger then what would be in a metal suppressor?
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Posted: 8/7/2020 9:43:00 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UV18: It is completely disposable, which is an awesome idea. I like it. I would also be curious of the heating and cooling of the plastic would cause the lead and residue to flake off and just shake out the holes. If only there wasn't a 1 year wait and $200 to go along with it. |
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USA
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Posted: 8/7/2020 9:45:49 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Squid1: Form 1s take a month. Was that the case back in Feb 2017 when he made the post or did you miss that? |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 9:56:34 PM EST
[#28]
That's pretty rad.
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Posted: 8/7/2020 10:07:11 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UV18: It is completely disposable, which is an awesome idea. I like it. I would also be curious of the heating and cooling of the plastic would cause the lead and residue to flake off and just shake out the holes. If only there wasn't a 1 year wait and $200 to go along with it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UV18: Originally Posted By Willmar: I think the gist is, due to material costs, it's essentially disposable. I could be wrong, though. It is completely disposable, which is an awesome idea. I like it. I would also be curious of the heating and cooling of the plastic would cause the lead and residue to flake off and just shake out the holes. If only there wasn't a 1 year wait and $200 to go along with it. Eforms bro, come back in about a month |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 10:15:10 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CavVet: now i need to know the model 3d printer i need to buy.  |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 10:35:22 PM EST
[#31]
Great now people are going to be arguing with 3 year old posts.
This thread gives me an idea..... |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 10:38:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: shack357]
[#32]
never mind
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Posted: 8/8/2020 12:06:45 AM EST
[#33]
Damn, I was living in a commie state when i subbed to this thread.
Nice to see the update. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 12:25:28 AM EST
[Last Edit: NorthPolar]
[#34]
This makes me wonder. Airgun suppressors aren't NFA if permanently attached, so I wonder how I could go about putting a 3d printed suppressor on a Bulldog 357 airgun.
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Posted: 8/8/2020 6:47:11 AM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By eck: We have a Makerbot at work, sure would be nice if the HPA went through so I could try something like this It would also be nice if my 180# St.Bernard started shitting solid Gold turds which is more likely to happen 
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Posted: 8/8/2020 7:04:30 AM EST
[#36]
Is there an stl file for this?
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GA, USA
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Posted: 8/8/2020 9:16:29 AM EST
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overkill777: Great now people are going to be arguing with 3 year old posts. This thread gives me an idea..... share with the class. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 9:27:22 AM EST
[Last Edit: FistPeso]
[#38]
...
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WI, USA
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Posted: 8/8/2020 9:42:32 AM EST
[#39]
What I want to know is where the hell did the OP find a lock-ring Rosan insert in 1/2-28 NEF?????????
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Posted: 8/8/2020 9:49:00 AM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jreinke: What I want to know is where the hell did the OP find a lock-ring Rosan insert in 1/2-28 NEF????????? Sounds like he made it himself. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 8/8/2020 9:51:18 AM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UV18: It is completely disposable, which is an awesome idea. I like it. I would also be curious of the heating and cooling of the plastic would cause the lead and residue to flake off and just shake out the holes. If only there wasn't a 1 year wait and $200 to go along with it. Form 1 takes 30 days. Buy a 3-D printer, file the form 1, by the time it is approved, you'll have the expertise mastered on the software enough to do it. Or just buy the code from the OP. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 9:55:46 AM EST
[Last Edit: Overkill777]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By billth777: share with the class. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By billth777: Originally Posted By Overkill777: Great now people are going to be arguing with 3 year old posts. This thread gives me an idea..... share with the class. Edit. Nevermind. I don't advocate this. When it gets too much lead in it just toss it and print a new monocore. My understanding is a form 1 can be repaired by the maker. This would eliminate the cleaning process for a 22 suppressor which sucks ass. On a bolt action 22 it should last a long time. You could print it in ABS, I just prefer HTPLA. Its easier to print, stronger, and when annealed almost as high heat distortion temp. |
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USA
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Posted: 8/8/2020 9:59:30 AM EST
[Last Edit: Echd]
[#43]
this is going to be the ticket for some cool printed cans when it becomes available in a couple of months.
7.5 high by 7.5 long by 4.7 inches wide build area. Other than the stink, which you can work around, resin printers are awesome, and cans have already been built out of engineering resins like the inexpensive siraya blu. Resin prints don't have the same issues with delamination on layer lines and are roughly equally strong in all directions. I've got a Photon and it's great for small prints. Larger bed and faster resin printers will stomp FDM... within their limitations. Making multiple parts on an MSLA machine is so fast and painless. You could print 3 1.375x7 inch cans on the new Saturn at a time... the same dimensions roughly as most 9mm cans. Wouldn't that be something, burning through three tax stamps in 3 hours on a $400 printer? Originally Posted By Overkill777: Make a form 1 solvent trap suppressor and 3d print a monocore baffle. Use HTPLA and anneal it inside the tube with a rod down the center to control and warping and expansion from annealing. When it gets too much lead in it just toss it and print a new monocore. My understanding is a form 1 can be repaired by the maker. This would eliminate the cleaning process for a 22 suppressor which sucks ass. On a bolt action 22 it should last a long time. You could print it in ABS, I just prefer HTPLA. Its easier to print, stronger, and when annealed almost as high heat distortion temp. Creating a new baffle or monocore would be a no-no. But just like everyone else, who would know? There are plenty of f1 cans out there that were repaired from an otherwise unrecoverable state, if you get what I mean. That would be illegal though, so don't advocate for it on this website and I am adamantly opposed to anyone breaking the law, even if it is something that is less a law and more an offhand ATF tech branch determination as to what is or isn't a silencer. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:00:08 AM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overkill777: Make a form 1 solvent trap suppressor and 3d print a monocore baffle. Use HTPLA and anneal it inside the tube with a rod down the center to control and warping and expansion from annealing. When it gets too much lead in it just toss it and print a new monocore. My understanding is a form 1 can be repaired by the maker. This would eliminate the cleaning process for a 22 suppressor which sucks ass. On a bolt action 22 it should last a long time. You could print it in ABS, I just prefer HTPLA. Its easier to print, stronger, and when annealed almost as high heat distortion temp. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overkill777: Originally Posted By billth777: Originally Posted By Overkill777: Great now people are going to be arguing with 3 year old posts. This thread gives me an idea..... share with the class. Make a form 1 solvent trap suppressor and 3d print a monocore baffle. Use HTPLA and anneal it inside the tube with a rod down the center to control and warping and expansion from annealing. When it gets too much lead in it just toss it and print a new monocore. My understanding is a form 1 can be repaired by the maker. This would eliminate the cleaning process for a 22 suppressor which sucks ass. On a bolt action 22 it should last a long time. You could print it in ABS, I just prefer HTPLA. Its easier to print, stronger, and when annealed almost as high heat distortion temp. Repair is fine, making replacement parts is not. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:11:59 AM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BCinAZ: Form 1 takes 30 days. Buy a 3-D printer, file the form 1, by the time it is approved, you'll have the expertise mastered on the software enough to do it. Or just buy the code from the OP. @BCinAZ The post you responded to is from Feb 2017.
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:16:18 AM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Redarts: this is going to be the ticket for some cool printed cans when it becomes available in a couple of months. 7.5 high by 7.5 long by 4.7 inches wide build area. Other than the stink, which you can work around, resin printers are awesome, and cans have already been built out of engineering resins like the inexpensive siraya blu. Resin prints don't have the same issues with delamination on layer lines and are roughly equally strong in all directions. I've got a Photon and it's great for small prints. Larger bed and faster resin printers will stomp FDM... within their limitations. Making multiple parts on an MSLA machine is so fast and painless. You could print 3 1.375x7 inch cans on the new Saturn at a time... the same dimensions roughly as most 9mm cans. Wouldn't that be something, burning through three tax stamps in 3 hours on a $400 printer? Creating a new baffle or monocore would be a no-no. But just like everyone else, who would know? There are plenty of f1 cans out there that were repaired from an otherwise unrecoverable state, if you get what I mean. That would be illegal though, so don't advocate for it on this website and I am adamantly opposed to anyone breaking the law, even if it is something that is less a law and more an offhand ATF tech branch determination as to what is or isn't a silencer. Gotcha. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:18:29 AM EST
[Last Edit: Overkill777]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JBowles: Repair is fine, making replacement parts is not. There's not many repairs that can be done without replacing something. I know, it's not supposed to make sense. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:26:50 AM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaBeamz: The fucking thing only cost him $3, 22 cans should be disposable anyway. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaBeamz: Originally Posted By UV18: A solid .22 suppressor...... cleaning must not be an option The fucking thing only cost him $3, 22 cans should be disposable anyway. I ran across a Youtube video of a Glock manufactured disposible silencer. Apparently, it is sold by Glock to countries outside of the US. It is also polymer. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:28:36 AM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MonkeyFist: OMG! I've been told that's impossible! You need 87 machinists with doctorates in metalurgy, fluid mechanics, and a bazillion dollars in CNC machines to make an silencer. Damn good job. You saying it's Midas, not NASA?  |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:31:25 AM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overkill777: Edit. Nevermind. I don't advocate this. When it gets too much lead in it just toss it and print a new monocore. My understanding is a form 1 can be repaired by the maker. This would eliminate the cleaning process for a 22 suppressor which sucks ass. On a bolt action 22 it should last a long time. You could print it in ABS, I just prefer HTPLA. Its easier to print, stronger, and when annealed almost as high heat distortion temp. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overkill777: Originally Posted By billth777: Originally Posted By Overkill777: Great now people are going to be arguing with 3 year old posts. This thread gives me an idea..... share with the class. Edit. Nevermind. I don't advocate this. When it gets too much lead in it just toss it and print a new monocore. My understanding is a form 1 can be repaired by the maker. This would eliminate the cleaning process for a 22 suppressor which sucks ass. On a bolt action 22 it should last a long time. You could print it in ABS, I just prefer HTPLA. Its easier to print, stronger, and when annealed almost as high heat distortion temp. I've though that slow fire on a longer barrel 22lr with subsonic rounds miiight work for a while. I've got ABS, PLA, pla+, and PETG on hand. Along with a lathe to turn a perfect sized bore rod... Have you tried annealing htpla? If so, do you have a brand you'd recommend? Asking for me. |
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