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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:00:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M4DUDE: The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job. Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec. Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:00:42 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cantshootstrate: Just avoid those racing/slotted rotors. Mine always sound like it's grinding rotors. After checking twice, I have accepted that most brake applications will be cringy. Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:07:14 PM EDT
[#3]
I just put as set of HAWK LTS pads on my F250. I've ran OEM Motorcraft, Wagner HD, and powerstop pads on that same truck....those LTS pads made a HUGE difference in stopping power. Night and day over anything else I've tried..HUGE difference.
HAWK LTS.....they aren't much more than the cheap pads. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:08:09 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: I just put as set of HAWK LTS pads on my F250. I've ran OEM Motorcraft, Wagner HD, and powerstop pads on that same truck....those LTS pads made a HUGE difference in stopping power. Night and day over anything else I've tried..HUGE difference. HAWK LTS.....they aren't much more than the cheap pads. Now add braided brake lines for the ultimate brake pedal feel. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:11:13 PM EDT
[#5]
Been running powerstop on my f150 for a long time
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:30:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: …unless you are driving a track car that gets the rotors glowing hot, all those holes and slots in the rotors do nothing but take rotor surface/fraction away, and eat up brake pads. They’re worse for track duty than on the street. As stated earlier- they look good/cool (sometimes), but should be avoided for OEM applications and track duty. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:44:13 PM EDT
[#7]
I drive 2 foot and tow daily, so I can go through pads in 25-35k miles. I typically buy Wagner, raybestos or Bosch, but have also bought motorcraft, Delco, advics and bendix. Sometimes I buy the cheaper line over the premium with coatings (depends on the vehicle), but I stay away from centric and power stop personally.
I try to buy fleet or hd options if available. I prefer the overall feel of semimet over ceramic and don't concern myself with the dust. I generally pull my brakes and lube slides every year or other year to ensure proper function and flush brake fluid every 3-4 years. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:49:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Deerhurst]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. I went drilled and slotted because solid sucked in the rain. A good 5 seconds of nothing after being on the highway in the rain for 30 minutes. Not what I wanted of I actually need to stop. Drilled and slotted rotors changed that too barely noticable since the water now has somewhere to go. What is braking torque? Braking is not a torque. It is a clamping force turning rotational energy into heat. Either way, takes usually around 200,000 miles for me to get low enough on pads to think about a brake job. Besides being way more fun this is another advantage of driving a stick. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:49:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kevins_garage: but I stay away from centric and power stop personally. Curious why on Centric? Is it specific levels of their product or specific experience? Since I switched to Centric many years ago, I have been pleased with every single install. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:57:07 PM EDT
[#10]
Just changed the fronts on my wife's Highlander. She got almost 70k miles out of the OEM pads, so that's what went back on.
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MI, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 2:58:03 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By Cantshootstrate: Just avoid those racing/slotted rotors. Mine always sound like it's grinding rotors. After checking twice, I have accepted that most brake applications will be cringy. Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. Seems kind of cringy to just call them a gimmick. It may be so on a small diameter or replacement rotor for a base corolla, but I'll take a performance 12-13"+ rotor with slots over a non slotted all day and twice on Sunday... |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:00:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deerhurst: What is braking torque? Braking is not a torque. It is a clamping force turning rotational energy into heat. Lol. Brake Torque is an actual term. Geez this place sometimes… |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:02:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: They’re worse for track duty than on the street. As stated earlier- they look good/cool (sometimes), but should be avoided for OEM applications and track duty. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By imq707s: …unless you are driving a track car that gets the rotors glowing hot, all those holes and slots in the rotors do nothing but take rotor surface/fraction away, and eat up brake pads. They’re worse for track duty than on the street. As stated earlier- they look good/cool (sometimes), but should be avoided for OEM applications and track duty. Agreed. It's amazing how many people think that by putting slots and holes in the rotors, it's going to magically give them more braking power......  Brakes/brake systems/brake bias/etc, etc....have got to be one of the most misunderstood things in the car industry....... |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:05:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deerhurst: I went drilled and slotted because solid sucked in the rain. A good 5 seconds of nothing after being on the highway in the rain for 30 minutes. Not what I wanted of I actually need to stop. Drilled and slotted rotors changed that too barely noticable since the water now has somewhere to go. What is braking torque? Braking is not a torque. It is a clamping force turning rotational energy into heat. Either way, takes usually around 200,000 miles for me to get low enough on pads to think about a brake job. Besides being way more fun this is another advantage of driving a stick. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deerhurst: Originally Posted By imq707s: Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. I went drilled and slotted because solid sucked in the rain. A good 5 seconds of nothing after being on the highway in the rain for 30 minutes. Not what I wanted of I actually need to stop. Drilled and slotted rotors changed that too barely noticable since the water now has somewhere to go. What is braking torque? Braking is not a torque. It is a clamping force turning rotational energy into heat. Either way, takes usually around 200,000 miles for me to get low enough on pads to think about a brake job. Besides being way more fun this is another advantage of driving a stick. That's not your rotors....that your pad material. Some pad compounds don't grip good when cold....most ceramics in fact. Brake torque is essentially the power of the braking system. The brake caliper acts on the disc at a certain distance from the hub center, known as the effective radius. The force exerted by the caliper, multiplied by the effective radius of the system equals the brake torque.  At least that's what google says. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:06:35 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Brakes/brake systems/brake bias/etc, etc....have got to be one of the most misunderstood things in the car industry....... As evidence in this very thread. Maybe we can get a residential electrical thread going next for more bad information and discussion by non-knowing “experts”. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:07:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec. Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By M4DUDE: The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job. Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec. Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I. Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:07:29 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kevins_garage: Seems kind of cringy to just call them a gimmick. It may be so on a small diameter or replacement rotor for a base corolla, but I'll take a performance 12-13"+ rotor with slots over a non slotted all day and twice on Sunday... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kevins_garage: Originally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By Cantshootstrate: Just avoid those racing/slotted rotors. Mine always sound like it's grinding rotors. After checking twice, I have accepted that most brake applications will be cringy. Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. Seems kind of cringy to just call them a gimmick. It may be so on a small diameter or replacement rotor for a base corolla, but I'll take a performance 12-13"+ rotor with slots over a non slotted all day and twice on Sunday... Think about it.....why would removing surface area from the rotor increase stopping power? And yes...I'm talking apples to apples. Same rotor size...solid vs. slotted. If you increase the rotor diameter, of coarse isn't going to stop faster. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:08:24 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Lol. Brake Torque is an actual term. Geez this place sometimes… Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By Deerhurst: What is braking torque? Braking is not a torque. It is a clamping force turning rotational energy into heat. Lol. Brake Torque is an actual term. Geez this place sometimes… Like I said......brakes and brake systems are the most misunderstood thing in the automotive world. Most people really have no idea what they are talking about...... |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:12:57 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: As evidence in this very thread. Maybe we can get a residential electrical thread going next for more bad information and discussion by non-knowing “experts”. 220 is safer than 120 because it kicks and 120 holds |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:14:47 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Like I said......brakes and brake systems are the most misunderstood thing in the automotive world. Most people really have no idea what they are talking about...... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By Deerhurst: What is braking torque? Braking is not a torque. It is a clamping force turning rotational energy into heat. Lol. Brake Torque is an actual term. Geez this place sometimes… Like I said......brakes and brake systems are the most misunderstood thing in the automotive world. Most people really have no idea what they are talking about...... Dude that's with everything on a car/truck. Everyone is a car guy, yet they don't know shit about fuck. GD is fucking terrible with it.... Like pants on head retarded. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:16:17 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Think about it.....why would removing surface area from the rotor increase stopping power? And yes...I'm talking apples to apples. Same rotor size...solid vs. slotted. If you increase the rotor diameter, of coarse isn't going to stop faster. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By kevins_garage: Originally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By Cantshootstrate: Just avoid those racing/slotted rotors. Mine always sound like it's grinding rotors. After checking twice, I have accepted that most brake applications will be cringy. Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. Seems kind of cringy to just call them a gimmick. It may be so on a small diameter or replacement rotor for a base corolla, but I'll take a performance 12-13"+ rotor with slots over a non slotted all day and twice on Sunday... Think about it.....why would removing surface area from the rotor increase stopping power? And yes...I'm talking apples to apples. Same rotor size...solid vs. slotted. If you increase the rotor diameter, of coarse isn't going to stop faster. You'll never convince someone that their fancy rotors didn't do fuck and it was all because they switched to a different pad at the same time. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:17:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Originally Posted By Mds238: I'm looking for input on OEM vs aftermarket pads and rotors. If aftermarket, what are good brands? Should I have the rotors turned, or just replace them? I probably haven't done a brake job in 8-10 years. The vehicle is a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee and this will be the first time brakes have been done (low mileage). Thanks for your input. ETA:. It's a Grand Cherokee with the 5.7. It's driven pretty gently and it's not really a daily driver as I have a company take home car. If selling in a year or so, fuckin pad slap that bitch with Duralast value line. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:18:22 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. I have mixed feelings on that. I personally believe a handful of 45 mph down to 10 mph stops and then letting the pads and rotors cool for a bit is the best for OEM street car applications. A proper transfer of pad material on new rotors can’t hurt. Overdoing it however…. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:22:20 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: I have mixed feelings on that. I personally believe a handful of 45 mph down to 10 mph stops and then letting the pads and rotors cool for a bit is the best for OEM street car applications. A proper transfer of pad material on new rotors can’t hurt. Overdoing it however…. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. I have mixed feelings on that. I personally believe a handful of 45 mph down to 10 mph stops and then letting the pads and rotors cool for a bit is the best for OEM street car applications. A proper transfer of pad material on new rotors can’t hurt. Overdoing it however…. Think of how many times you do that just driving normally |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:33:59 PM EDT
[#25]
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MI, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:35:59 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: Curious why on Centric? Is it specific levels of their product or specific experience? Since I switched to Centric many years ago, I have been pleased with every single install. It's not that I necessarily think they are bad. For me, I can source comparable or better for less. I have bought centric and power stop on closeout from rockauto, but they didn't seem to perform any better than the others I mentioned, so there was no value to me to pay more for them for my daily drivers if another brand I mentioned was available at a better price. In a more performance oriented application, I wouldn't consider them either as I feel there are better options. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:38:23 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Think of how many times you do that just driving normally 45 to 10 half a dozen times in a few minutes span, probably never. In all seriousness, the idea is to have a perfect and even layer of pad material deposited on the rotor. You can visually see it, if you do it perfectly. Just driving off and doing regular driving doesn’t guarantee it, but most likely would never be an issue. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:38:26 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HK_FTW: Wilwood or nothing https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/376498/358093917_7034237136592942_6032123116796-3306361.JPG A voice of reason appears  Attached File |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:42:36 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Think about it.....why would removing surface area from the rotor increase stopping power? And yes...I'm talking apples to apples. Same rotor size...solid vs. slotted. If you increase the rotor diameter, of coarse isn't going to stop faster. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By kevins_garage: Originally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By Cantshootstrate: Just avoid those racing/slotted rotors. Mine always sound like it's grinding rotors. After checking twice, I have accepted that most brake applications will be cringy. Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. Seems kind of cringy to just call them a gimmick. It may be so on a small diameter or replacement rotor for a base corolla, but I'll take a performance 12-13"+ rotor with slots over a non slotted all day and twice on Sunday... Think about it.....why would removing surface area from the rotor increase stopping power? And yes...I'm talking apples to apples. Same rotor size...solid vs. slotted. If you increase the rotor diameter, of coarse isn't going to stop faster. Let me rephrase. If I had a base corolla with small brake rotors, I wouldn't switch to a slotted rotor of the same size as I don't believe there would be any real benefit. If I had a performance vehicle with 12-13"+ rotors, it likely came from the factory with slotted or even drilled/slotted rotors. I wouldn't switch back to smooth rotors and expect better performance. I don't think drilled/slotted rotors are a gimmick in the right application. If you do, that's fine with me. Carry on. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 3:47:14 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RodMI: OEM most after market parts are sketchy. Aftermarket, most OEM pads can't take track abuse |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:17:29 PM EDT
[#31]
Has anybody here tried cryogenic treated rotors?
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:18:05 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By M4DUDE: The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job. Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec. Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I. Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. I have bedded every brake job I have ever done in the past 20 years. My rotors last forever, and are only changed when pads are worn. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:22:14 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Ok. I’ll play along… How does that help based on your description of “adding surface area”? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By Dynamo: Yes, really. The inner barrel of a hole is now a surface. Same with a slot. If you are only looking at the surface area where the brake pad will touch then yes, there is less surface area. But if you look at the total surface area of the rotor then adding holes and slots increases the surface area of the rotor. And again, he didn't say just brake pad contact area. Ok. I’ll play along… How does that help based on your description of “adding surface area”? Radiators and other types of heat sinks have fins to increase surface area. It's the same concept. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:23:01 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kevins_garage: It's not that I necessarily think they are bad. For me, I can source comparable or better for less. I have bought centric and power stop on closeout from rockauto, but they didn't seem to perform any better than the others I mentioned, so there was no value to me to pay more for them for my daily drivers if another brand I mentioned was available at a better price. In a more performance oriented application, I wouldn't consider them either as I feel there are better options. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kevins_garage: Originally Posted By FALARAK: Curious why on Centric? Is it specific levels of their product or specific experience? Since I switched to Centric many years ago, I have been pleased with every single install. It's not that I necessarily think they are bad. For me, I can source comparable or better for less. I have bought centric and power stop on closeout from rockauto, but they didn't seem to perform any better than the others I mentioned, so there was no value to me to pay more for them for my daily drivers if another brand I mentioned was available at a better price. In a more performance oriented application, I wouldn't consider them either as I feel there are better options. Gotchya. For me - I used to buy Raybestos premium lines, but had one that got warp/pad deposition on our Honda Pilot, using Honda OEM pads. It would come and go, but if the rotors got hot, it always returned. I still put 50k miles on those rotors, but switched them out with Centric coated rotors. No issues since. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:24:10 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: I have bedded every brake job I have ever done in the past 20 years. My rotors last forever, and are only changed when pads are worn. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By M4DUDE: The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job. Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec. Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I. Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. I have bedded every brake job I have ever done in the past 20 years. My rotors last forever, and are only changed when pads are worn. You change your rotors with every pad change? Keep doing what you're doing, it's working great 
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:26:12 PM EDT
[#36]
I usually go with EBC pads and EBC or Centric rotors.
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:29:03 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Think about it.....why would removing surface area from the rotor increase stopping power? And yes...I'm talking apples to apples. Same rotor size...solid vs. slotted. If you increase the rotor diameter, of coarse isn't going to stop faster. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By kevins_garage: Originally Posted By imq707s: Originally Posted By Cantshootstrate: Just avoid those racing/slotted rotors. Mine always sound like it's grinding rotors. After checking twice, I have accepted that most brake applications will be cringy. Yep.....and they actually don't stop as good as solid rotors (unless you have an actual track car). All those holes and slots can take up to 10%+ of the rotor surface away...the same surface that your pads are trying to clamp onto....reducing braking torque. It's a gimmick.....and people love to fall for it. Seems kind of cringy to just call them a gimmick. It may be so on a small diameter or replacement rotor for a base corolla, but I'll take a performance 12-13"+ rotor with slots over a non slotted all day and twice on Sunday... Think about it.....why would removing surface area from the rotor increase stopping power? And yes...I'm talking apples to apples. Same rotor size...solid vs. slotted. If you increase the rotor diameter, of coarse isn't going to stop faster. You keep talking in terms of surface area, but heat is really what you should be concerned about. Brakes stop your car, but their function is to convert rotation and forward momentum into another form of energy - heat. Bigger rotors are better heat sinks. They also have more surface area and you can put bigger pads on them, but that means they create heat faster. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 4:38:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FALARAK]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: You change your rotors with every pad change? Keep doing what you're doing, it's working great Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By M4DUDE: The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job. Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec. Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I. Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. I have bedded every brake job I have ever done in the past 20 years. My rotors last forever, and are only changed when pads are worn. You change your rotors with every pad change? Keep doing what you're doing, it's working great Yep, I sure do, Nancy. Rotors are dirt cheap. I don't have a rotor lathe at home. I got 158,000 miles out of my OEM rotors on the F150. It has 192k now and pads arent even close. So that's 1 set of rotors in almost 200,000 miles. I can handle that just fine, Cheif. On the Pilot, the first brakes had warped/deposition by 50k miles, when we bought it. So I changed those out at 78k miles. Then at 137k miles, those had warped/deposited. It is pretty well known among the Pilot owner's community that the front rotors were under-designed and this story is not uncommon. I hope that is ok with you, Captain. Please dont lose any sleep over my $200 in rotor cost over 10 years and 100,000 miles. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 5:31:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cedjunior: Radiators and other types of heat sinks have fins to increase surface area. It's the same concept. LOL. Brake rotors are just like radiators now. Interesting. Which IMSA, WEC, or SRO teams use crossdrilled rotors on their GT cars? |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 7:13:58 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: Yep, I sure do, Nancy. Rotors are dirt cheap. I don't have a rotor lathe at home. I got 158,000 miles out of my OEM rotors on the F150. It has 192k now and pads arent even close. So that's 1 set of rotors in almost 200,000 miles. I can handle that just fine, Cheif. On the Pilot, the first brakes had warped/deposition by 50k miles, when we bought it. So I changed those out at 78k miles. Then at 137k miles, those had warped/deposited. It is pretty well known among the Pilot owner's community that the front rotors were under-designed and this story is not uncommon. I hope that is ok with you, Captain. Please dont lose any sleep over my $200 in rotor cost over 10 years and 100,000 miles. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By Bogdan: Originally Posted By M4DUDE: The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job. Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec. Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I. Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car. I have never once bedded pads. Just drive the fucking thing. I have bedded every brake job I have ever done in the past 20 years. My rotors last forever, and are only changed when pads are worn. You change your rotors with every pad change? Keep doing what you're doing, it's working great Yep, I sure do, Nancy. Rotors are dirt cheap. I don't have a rotor lathe at home. I got 158,000 miles out of my OEM rotors on the F150. It has 192k now and pads arent even close. So that's 1 set of rotors in almost 200,000 miles. I can handle that just fine, Cheif. On the Pilot, the first brakes had warped/deposition by 50k miles, when we bought it. So I changed those out at 78k miles. Then at 137k miles, those had warped/deposited. It is pretty well known among the Pilot owner's community that the front rotors were under-designed and this story is not uncommon. I hope that is ok with you, Captain. Please dont lose any sleep over my $200 in rotor cost over 10 years and 100,000 miles. You made it sound like you change rotors with pads every time. What you just said is not that |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 7:27:39 PM EDT
[#41]
The most important thing I ever learned about brakes was to not let my wife drive my truck.
I'm at almost 87K on the factory pads and rotors on my F150. Which blows my mind considering I went through the factory set, and three sets of pads and rotors on my 2007 F150, within the first 5 years. I remember that because they were covered for 5 years and all those brake jobs fell under my service plan. When these go, I may go OEM again? We shall see when that time comes. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 7:53:42 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By Mds238: I'm looking for input on OEM vs aftermarket pads and rotors. If aftermarket, what are good brands? Should I have the rotors turned, or just replace them? I probably haven't done a brake job in 8-10 years. The vehicle is a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee and this will be the first time brakes have been done (low mileage). Thanks for your input. ETA:. It's a Grand Cherokee with the 5.7. It's driven pretty gently and it's not really a daily driver as I have a company take home car. @Mds238 - I have the same vehicle in the 2017 model. It now has 43k miles and the brakes still look good. How many miles on your 2016 model that it now needs a brake job? I'm gleaning a lot of info thanks to you. I want to be prepared when it's time for new brakes. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 8/27/2024 8:29:05 PM EDT
[#43]
Tried a few Powerstop parts and was NOT impressed.
Rotors, I prefer Brembo or the mid to upper tier Centric. Pads, the Akebono are good if their heavy duty. Ceramic pads don't bite well, who gives a shit about less dust if you can't stop well. Padgid semi metallic have great feel. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 8:42:10 PM EDT
[#44]
Power stop breaks a rotors.
I run them on all my trucks. |
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Posted: 8/27/2024 9:22:45 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OneMoreAR: @Mds238 - I have the same vehicle in the 2017 model. It now has 43k miles and the brakes still look good. How many miles on your 2016 model that it now needs a brake job? I'm gleaning a lot of info thanks to you. I want to be prepared when it's time for new brakes. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OneMoreAR: Originally Posted By Mds238: I'm looking for input on OEM vs aftermarket pads and rotors. If aftermarket, what are good brands? Should I have the rotors turned, or just replace them? I probably haven't done a brake job in 8-10 years. The vehicle is a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee and this will be the first time brakes have been done (low mileage). Thanks for your input. ETA:. It's a Grand Cherokee with the 5.7. It's driven pretty gently and it's not really a daily driver as I have a company take home car. @Mds238 - I have the same vehicle in the 2017 model. It now has 43k miles and the brakes still look good. How many miles on your 2016 model that it now needs a brake job? I'm gleaning a lot of info thanks to you. I want to be prepared when it's time for new brakes. I have 45 k on it. Just started hearing a light squeak on Sunday. I hurt my back Saturday so I haven't had a chance to pull a wheel. I'm just preparing for the worst. You're right...a lot of good info coming out. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 12:54:55 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FALARAK: Yep, I sure do, Nancy. Rotors are dirt cheap. I don't have a rotor lathe at home. I got 158,000 miles out of my OEM rotors on the F150. It has 192k now and pads arent even close. So that's 1 set of rotors in almost 200,000 miles. I can handle that just fine, Cheif. On the Pilot, the first brakes had warped/deposition by 50k miles, when we bought it. So I changed those out at 78k miles. Then at 137k miles, those had warped/deposited. It is pretty well known among the Pilot owner's community that the front rotors were under-designed and this story is not uncommon. I hope that is ok with you, Captain. Please dont lose any sleep over my $200 in rotor cost over 10 years and 100,000 miles. Holy shit, I am a little bit jealous and mad. Here in rust shithole commie NY we salt the roads. The brake caliper bracket rusts so bad that it gets HUGE flakes and scales that push out and jam up the brake pads and those clips they sit in. I'm a far guy, I want out of the rust belt. Your rotors and pads eouldnhave probably been done for here in 4 years :( |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 1:00:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: cedjunior]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: LOL. Brake rotors are just like radiators now. Interesting. Which IMSA, WEC, or SRO teams use crossdrilled rotors on their GT cars? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: Originally Posted By cedjunior: Radiators and other types of heat sinks have fins to increase surface area. It's the same concept. LOL. Brake rotors are just like radiators now. Interesting. Which IMSA, WEC, or SRO teams use crossdrilled rotors on their GT cars? That's not at all what I said, and I also didn't advocate for cross drilled rotors. You seem very emotional about this. I was simply stating that a cross drilled rotor has more surface area than a flat surface, and pointing out that surface area aids in thermal energy exchange. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 9:28:20 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cedjunior: That's not at all what I said, and I also didn't advocate for cross drilled rotors. You seem very emotional about this. I was simply stating that a cross drilled rotor has more surface area than a flat surface, and pointing out that surface area aids in thermal energy exchange. I’m not emotional about it. The science was settled years ago about cross drilled rotors. The same bs about cross drilled rotors keeps being repeated over and over. You guys keep stating the holes add surface area. It removes surface area for the pad contact patch. It also removes mass from the rotor. The rotors main job is to maintain the coefficient of friction with the pad to slow the forward inertia of the vehicle. Its second job is to dissipate the heat away from the pads and disperse the heat through itself. Do you think less material and less surface area between the pad and rotor helps or hurts in this process? You guys are correct when you state there is more area for air to flow through the rotor since it has holes in it. However, that’s not an advantage with the way the brakes are designed. As stated earlier, there is now less area for pad contact and less material to accept dissipated heat. A section I found interesting from the well written article posted earlier: The angle of the vanes had the greatest influence on the heat dissipation capacity of the disc, increasing the heat transfer from 0° to 37°, but not as much at 45° as at 37°. The number of vanes was 30, which provided the best cooling effect on the disc. The effect of each parameter on the cooling performance of the disc was in the following order: angle of vanes > ventilation gap > number of vanes. This thread was originally about brakes on a basic street car. OEM parts or proper aftermarket are a wise choice. Cheap Chinese cross drilled rotors are a bad idea on any application. There’s a reason race teams don’t use cross drilled rotors. And the same reasons are applicable to your street car that might make its way down some mountain roads. |
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Posted: 8/28/2024 9:29:58 AM EDT
[#49]
The drilled holes in rotors is usually a great place for cracks in the rotor to manifest.
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MI, USA
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Posted: 8/28/2024 9:45:04 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurboVice: I’m not emotional about it. The science was settled years ago about cross drilled rotors. The same bs about cross drilled rotors keeps being repeated over and over. You guys keep stating the holes add surface area. It removes surface area for the pad contact patch. It also removes mass from the rotor. The rotors main job is to maintain the coefficient of friction with the pad to slow the forward inertia of the vehicle. Its second job is to dissipate the heat away from the pads and disperse the heat through itself. Do you think less material and less surface area between the pad and rotor helps or hurts in this process? You guys are correct when you state there is more area for air to flow through the rotor since it has holes in it. However, that’s not an advantage with the way the brakes are designed. As stated earlier, there is now less area for pad contact and less material to accept dissipated heat. A section I found interesting from the well written article posted earlier: The angle of the vanes had the greatest influence on the heat dissipation capacity of the disc, increasing the heat transfer from 0° to 37°, but not as much at 45° as at 37°. The number of vanes was 30, which provided the best cooling effect on the disc. The effect of each parameter on the cooling performance of the disc was in the following order: angle of vanes > ventilation gap > number of vanes. This thread was originally about brakes on a basic street car. OEM parts or proper aftermarket are a wise choice. Cheap Chinese cross drilled rotors are a bad idea on any application. There’s a reason race teams don’t use cross drilled rotors. And the same reasons are applicable to your street car that might make its way down some mountain roads. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a45531436/cross-drilled-vs-slotted-rotors/ Note the comments from the guy from brembo and the Ferrari slotted rotors pictured... |
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