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Link Posted: 8/28/2024 9:50:29 AM EDT
[#1]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Into_the_Void:
Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car.  I have never once bedded pads.  Just drive the fucking thing.
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I used the pad manufacturer instructions after the last front end brake job.  It was a reasonable process.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 9:52:28 AM EDT
[#2]
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Originally Posted By TurboVice:

I have mixed feelings on that. I personally believe a handful of 45 mph down to 10 mph stops and then letting the pads and rotors cool for a bit is the best for OEM street car applications.  A proper transfer of pad material on new rotors can’t hurt. Overdoing it however….
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That sounds close to the manufacturer instructions that I used.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 10:04:45 AM EDT
[#3]
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Originally Posted By kevins_garage:

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a45531436/cross-drilled-vs-slotted-rotors/

Note the comments from the guy from brembo and the Ferrari slotted rotors pictured...
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If you guys want to run drilled rotors on your car not designed for them, knock yourselves out.

The Ferrari pic is the same rotors almost all the race teams use. I’ve used both slotted and plain rotors on my track car. I’ve settle on plain rotors with G-Loc R12 pads. They provide the most consistent feel and repeatable braking points over every other combo I’ve used.

Porsche or Ferrari with crossdrilled rotors from the factory would be the only exception to using them. I personally would still use slotted rotors if I had a Porsche or Ferrari for track use.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 10:30:16 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Into_the_Void:


Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car.  I have never once bedded pads.  Just drive the fucking thing.
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Originally Posted By Into_the_Void:
Originally Posted By Bogdan:
Originally Posted By M4DUDE:
The high school dropouts that work at Midas have infiltrated the thread to explain that no other adult could possibly do something as complicated as a brake job.


Nah we have been infiltrated by people with literally absolutely the worst luck with rotors that are literally the worst and every single one they got was out of spec.
Also checking for runout with dial indicator is for liberal faggots and putting the correct amount of torque on a lug nut makes you a liberal faggot. My grandpa didnt need that faggoty shit for his Model T and neither do I.


Honestly I think they go through rotors like water because they insist on bedding brakes like it's a fucking track car.  I have never once bedded pads.  Just drive the fucking thing.



No...bedding a new set of brakes in doesn't eat up your rotors.  It's a pretty standard process....do a few medium 60-10 stops, let them cool a little bit, then do some hard 60-10 stops. You want the brakes hot enough that you can start to smell them.  It's easy to do, it distributed teh pad material evenly on the rotors, and it works.    

Do most "non-car" people just forget about that whole process and drive the car like normal after new brakes...probably. Doesn't mean it's not supposed to be done.

Link Posted: 8/28/2024 12:17:25 PM EDT
[#5]
Here's another question on disc brakes.

What and how determines placement of the break caliper on the wheel hub?

I've noticed most front disc caliper's are installed on the rear side of the wheel but on the back set of discs it seems it's 50/50 on if the caliper is mounted on the front side or the rear side of the wheel.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 1:19:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Orion10182011] [#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BuddyChryst:
Not terribly happy with the Power Stops I put on my wife’s minivan. They are drilled/slotted, because she kept getting a bit of a throb, so I thought staying cooler might help. The first ones wore weird.

ETA: I found the pic I send their customer service:

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240289/image1_jpeg-3305673.JPG

I asked them to exchange for the cheaper non-drilled/slotted, but they wouldn’t. They’re worse than bad rotors with vibrations/hum. If it was my daily driver I probably would’ve switched them out and ate the loss.

I used Centric rotors on my car.  They only lasted 2 years. Tried Dynamic Friction and they’re going well so far. Pads I’ll use Akebono, Wagner, or now Dynamic Friction.

So until something goes different, I’m currently happy enough with Dynamic Friction.
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I have Power Stops on my 2020 Ram 1500.  Big improvement in braking over OEM.  Had them several years now, no issues.

I also put a set on the 96 Vette in my Avatar.  Also no issues.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 5:23:29 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By wagonwheel1:
Here's another question on disc brakes.

What and how determines placement of the break caliper on the wheel hub?

I've noticed most front disc caliper's are installed on the rear side of the wheel but on the back set of discs it seems it's 50/50 on if the caliper is mounted on the front side or the rear side of the wheel.
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If the car was made in Australia it's on one side, if it's made in Canada it's on the other because the wheel spin the other direction.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 6:01:21 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4DUDE:


If the car was made in Australia it's on one side, if it's made in Canada it's on the other because the wheel spin the other direction.
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Makes sense. Also explains why my toilet overflows when I'm in Australia.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 6:16:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Pallas] [#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ckh1980:
Just changed the fronts on my wife's Highlander. She got almost 70k miles out of the OEM pads, so that's what went back on.
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OEM pads aren’t bad, people going aftermarket are either trying to save a piddly amount of money or are chasing better performance.

One could argue that using OEM pads and rotors, you know they will work together well vs some cobble up.

I used Centric rotors on my 4R because the OEM rotors had a reputation for being thin. In all honestly, both brands were fine.

I could see wanting to save money if you are replacing these things every 10k, but 30k-70k? Come’on. I also think a lot of people are trying to get their SUV or truck to stop like a sports car. Buy a sports car to do that.

I’m pretty hard on brakes, I’m impressed at how long my oem F150 pads, rotors have lasted. The rear needed to be replace around 63k, the rears commonly go first on a F150, fronts are fine.

People should change their fluid too, most don’t, ever lol.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 6:22:44 PM EDT
[#10]
I like brembo rotors and oem pads.  Have worked well.  I would consider some of these other options here.
Link Posted: 8/28/2024 8:17:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Pallas:


OEM pads aren’t bad, people going aftermarket are either trying to save a piddly amount of money or are chasing better performance.

One could argue that using OEM pads and rotors, you know they will work together well vs some cobble up.

I used Centric rotors on my 4R because the OEM rotors had a reputation for being thin. In all honestly, both brands were fine.

I could see wanting to save money if you are replacing these things every 10k, but 30k-70k? Come’on. I also think a lot of people are trying to get their SUV or truck to stop like a sports car. Buy a sports car to do that.

I’m pretty hard on brakes, I’m impressed at how long my oem F150 pads, rotors have lasted. The rear needed to be replace around 63k, the rears commonly go first on a F150, fronts are fine.

People should change their fluid too, most don’t, ever lol.
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Fluid thing is a bitch. Cars lime my ford flex already have too much ass for their size of brakes add lots of water to the brakes and take the appalacian roads and you get to pray to Jesus on the back side of a mountain.
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