Awesome and congrats!

Your picture is broke though. You should be able to upload it to ARFCOM direct.

Thanks, it's been a process but proof that patience, perserverance and some good ol research wins the day.

I was working my way through the uploads and message construct, but you caught me before the pants were all the way up.    Should look like a real post now complete with pics!

Solid looking tucks!

Keep us updated on the 12K upgrade! Don't think I've seen a good write-up on that. I know I'd like to do mine down the road after I've got a turbo 6.5 drivetrain in it.

Interesting your truck with the camo rack has high back seats all around. Don't see that on too many of these going through GP/IP.

So far they're both in pretty good shape, minimal corrosion and solid engines.  The one with the rack was set up at some point with the fording kit (shame they don't include those in the resale), and probably was a commander's vehicle at the end of it's Army life since it has 4 of the good seats in it.  At some point the transfer case was upgraded too, along with the rack, etc.   And you're right -- I think it commanded a little of a premium for the rack, seats, and the fording kit basics.

The other is a plain solid stock M998 -- but with the 12K half-shafts and upgraded transfer case should be bad ass.  When the news that 3 of the 4 10K's on it needed replaced, I figured I may as well go ahead and upgrade all 4, and the 12K parts were actually cheaper than 10K replacements (of course with the geared hub gear replacement and extra work it'll be a bit more, but hopefully the drive train will be closer to "Army-Proof" when it's done).  Got the 12K gears for the hubs pretty quick and installed, just waiting on the "freight" to get the shafts here.  Also putting a rear locker on this one too, since I was facing either having to buy another stock differential to replace the bad one on the other truck, and the cost was almost comparable between just swapping to a locker.  So swapping the good "stock" rear diff from this truck over to the one with the rack, and figure this will be my beast.

Well, I had a set back today with mine. I was finishing up some cosmetic issues and the next thing I hear after I shut it off is a constant sound of water pouring out onto the driveway. Of course it wasn't water, looks like engine oil and coolant mixed together. Sure enough check the dip stick and oil and coolant mixed together nice and thick.

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Damn dude, and I thought I was having a bad day. 16 years of driving, 13 which I average between 50-55k miles a year for work, and managed to get my first speeding ticket (not in my truck!) today which cost me $125.

Fingers crossed it's just the gasket. You going to try to tackle it yourself? Wish I was closer to lend a hand...


Found some new issues on my truck last night after doing a quick inspection but are pretty minor, relatively speaking. Fuel tank looks to be leaking diesel from the top. Not sure if it's from where I replaced the sender, the main gasket, or the filler hose area. Going to pick up a new fuel tank kit from a local surplus store that has the newest style fuel tank and includes the main gasket. Should only be $13 so I'll basically be buying the gasket and getting a free fuel tank!

Also found my rear pinion seal is now leaking. Already have a new seal on the way. From what I've seen, shouldn't be too bad to replace.

The joys of owning a 20+ year old truck!

Ryan I wish you were closer as I would take you up on the offer. I don't know where to start since the oil / antifreeze mixture is pouring out from the witness/drainhole in the flywheel cover. No idea what broke causing oil to pour from there or what broke causing the oil antifreeze mixture. Next issue is it won't start. Starter engages but all you hear is spinning of the flywheel I assume. Notice in the pic of it pouring onto my drive way you can see a plant on the otherside, yep not in the garage. It was a pain pushing it back into the garage at a slight uphill angle and took the last bit of energy for the day, going to be until Saturday until I get time to mess with it in-depth. Goal is to finish painting the last few parts over the next two weekends and then have a mechanic come and look at it if I can't figure it out. I have done tons of  work in the past on a Jeep TJ, but this may be at the edge of my limits. Any ideas as i am trying to brainstorm/research before dropping money?

Before this, I was researching putting a tablet such as an Xplore in a docking station and running a usb camera(s), gps, internet, etc. Saw one in an older FJ and it looked nice as the docking station has inputs to run switches for the lights plus it can run on 24v.

That's really not good...

I'm familiar with what results in an oil/coolant mix (head gaskets letting go) but that part in red is a new one for me. I'm sitting here and thinking through the mechanics of the engine...

Here's my SWAG. Keep in mind I have zero experience pulling/separating an engine and trans so I'm going off theory only. Maybe @fp1201 or others more knowledgeable on the teardown can chime in...

Fluid is likely coming out of the rear main seal/bearing which is now toast. Since the flywheel is connected directly to the crankshaft, I'd say the the oil/coolant mix has caused a bearing to seize up (possibly the rear main) and the crank is potentially broken at that point or the flywheel mounting bolts have sheared off when it seized and, that's why you're only getting the flywheel turning and no crank rotation.

Some pics I stole from online...

Rear of a 6.5T with the flywheel still attached:


Rear of a 6.2 with no flywheel, you can see where it mounts:


Rear main bearing/seal as seen from the bottom/oil pan area:




I've got to say, with the mention of no crank when turning the starter, it does not sound good at all.

I would seriously consider that with a failure of this scale, it may well be worth taking the plunge and doing a drivetrain swap. If I were in your shoes, that's definitely the direction I'd be looking at to best take advantage of the situation, even if it meant the truck had to sit for a spell until I had funds to make it happen, rather than throwing money at rebuilding a weaker engine with a limited transmission. On the bright side, you should be able to get some money out of the transmission and transfer case if you do go to a 6.5T/4spd.

Yeah, that's kinda the direction I am leaning. If it was just the head gasket and possible flywheel I would attempt it, but I think it is more than that. Not sure if I want to go with turbo as it requires cutting the dog house opening, new wiring harness, driveshafts and everything, plus the cost. I was researching 6.5na as it would be an upgrade from the 6.2 and should be plug and play, just change the engine everything else stays the same. But the turbo does give me more but don't know where to start on the turbos. Lots to look at and not sure who locally could do the work as that is more than I want to tackle. At least its back in the garage so I have plenty of time to look at it and debate the next steps.

Actually, now that I think about it, I might know of a good 6.2L that is out of a truck and is sitting unused on an engine stand, that the owner may part with if you want to go that route.

Let me get with him and I'll let you know via PM what he says. He's local so it would obviously have to be freight shipped to you.

With the 6.5T, it may be worth a call to Southern Metals to see what all you can get from them for the upgrade.

Last I talked to them they did include the trans controller but not the full body harness. Didn't ask about the driveshafts as my truck already has the later model 242 tcase and, as I understand, shouldn't need those changed when I do the upgrade because of that.

ETA: Does include the turbo dog house too.

Ed seeing those hood latches is ironic as I got two new ones in last week and was planning on doing that yesterday. My old ones are also stretched and painted over which I hate. Did you find any ar15 mounting options at Shot besides the KNS mounts?

I'd agree, but usually there are strong indicators prior to catastrophic failure.
First off see if you can turn the engine two full revolutions using a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft balancer bolt. Send oil (coolant sample too if they'll do it) sample: most diesel shops can tell you who they use; Caterpillar is big on oil samples.  The plugs in the rear of the block will back off and leak oil. Remove the inspection cover from the flywheel housing to see what can. be found.  Starter drive can fail, making a grinding and lot of racket without rotating the engine. Of course blown head gasket(s) will dump coolant into the base, samples should reveal combustion gases if the gaskets, heads, and or block failed.
Engines that "look" rebuilt and ready to install aren't always what they appear to be, so before buying or at the least installing a surplus engine, give it a going over like something out of the junk yard because it just might be: you have been warned.

Also: the flex plates aren't very strong for the application: you well could have torn the center/hub section from the crankshaft, which would allow the starter to spin the ring gear while not rotating the crank.
Use a big screwdriver or pry bar once you get the cover off (uses a 15mm shallow well socket)

Just finished watching Range 15, which is like a hilarious hour and a half internet skit, and this part really made me laugh.

FYI, language warning so don't watch this out loud in your cubical!

Started to try this last night, but needed to get a shorter extension for the socket as the extension I was using is too long since there is not a lot of space with the fan in the way.

Took the humvee out with the local 4x4 club a couple weeks ago.

It kept up with the jeeps pretty good for a 30 year old stock 5/4 ton cargo truck. It is a completely different animal than my cucv blazer. I will have to practice.

Awesome action shot!

Fyi a coolant leak coming THROUGH the drain hole in the flywheel cover could be from above the engine, such as the connections to the thermostat housing (on a civilian 6.5 turbo diesel anyway, not sure if the engine on your hmmwv has the t-stat housing in the same area).  If it were leaking, it would continue to the valley of the engine, then down through the rear via a drain hole to finally get to the drain hole at the flywheel cover.  I think a rear main would actually be leaking between the eng/trans, and that oil would definitely be on the outside of the flywheel cover as well (from seepage), and would APPEAR to be coming down through that drain hole.  Clean and dry it.  Then pressure test your coolant system.

But coolant and oil mixing is most likely a headgasket, or possibly a block failure.

Picked up my new fuel tank gasket, and free fuel tank , last week. $13 as advertised! Manufacture date of 2010 on it.




But of course, the story couldn't end that quickly, or cheaply now could it.

Original plan was to just swap the tank, no muss no fuss. But I just had to go and look up my new tank's part number in the TM...

Come to find out there are parts to address one of my biggest pet peeves on my truck, the huge swings in fuel gauge movement when starting and stopping.

Turns out there is a whole baffle setup used in conjunction with my new tank, which does have a small baffle compartment molded into it, though it only comes up a few inches from the bottom around the sender area.

So... $200 later I have the new baffle setup from Kascar dropped off by FedEx today.



I'm going to go ahead and replace the fuel filler and filler vent hose while I'm at it. May as well get that out of the way.

Might try to tackle this Saturday. I've already got the fuel tank down to around 1/8th.

Access it from the underside: it'll be much easier than futzing around the fan.  

Crossposted from GD...

NC Police Chase Suspect In Stolen National Guard Humvee

February 4, 2017

A person stole a Humvee from the National Guard Armory Saturday morning in Lincolnton and led police on a chase that ended in an officer-involved shooting, according to WSOC.

Lincolnton police said the Humvee was stolen from the base on North Aspen Street. Officers saw the military-style vehicle just before 4:30 a.m. driving erratically with no lights on.

Police Chief Rodney Jordan said the driver refused to stop for officers and a chase started down East Main Street.

The driver made an abrupt turn and hit a second officer who was called in for backup, Jordan said. The suspect reportedly put the car into reverse and then backed into the pursuing officer's cruiser.

The officer fired shots at the suspect vehicle and the driver drove away. It's not yet known if the suspect also fired shots.

Jordan said a short time later, someone flagged down a sheriff's deputy and told the deputy he had picked up a person who had been shot. The person was airlifted to the hospital, but it's not clear if that person is the driver involved in the shooting.

The Humvee was found about a mile from the shooting scene.

Video at the link. Better video here.

Truck looks like a maintenance truck. Sporting an Ibis Tek up front and full bumper/Rhino in back.

Driver was spotted when driving with no lights. Guess someone doesn't know how to work the 3 lever switch.

Took out two cruisers with the truck. Backed into one. Sideswiped another.

Over the weekend, didn't get much in the way of swapping tanks done.

My sealant I had to order from Amazon took 4 days to get here and showed up Sunday, even though it was listed as Prime eligible and should have been in Saturday, and it was a lot cooler on Saturday than I preferred to work on the truck in.

So, once the sealant got here I just did some work inside on the new tank getting the baffle setup installed. Unfortunately, I ran into some fitment issues mostly with the baffle plate itself (19.5) and a slight one with the support baffle (19.8).

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I'm not sure if the tank itself is out of spec or if the parts from Kascar were. I don't think it is the tank though...

The tank I got has the part number on it and it correctly checked out in the TM for use with the baffle parts. I triple checked it before ordering the parts since they were so pricey. Also, the tank was a sealed box with NSN stickers and everything.

On the other hand, the parts from Kascar only came with their wire tie tags on them, no factory stickers, so I have no idea if these weren't parts they had fabbed up or something. I'm still not 100% convinced the deep fording snorkel elbow I got from them wasn't just a standard 4" rubber plumbing elbow because it sure didn't have the one extended leg on it it should have. Then I get these parts that don't fit correctly as well? Seems suspicious to me but of course nothing I can conclusively show one way or another.

The baffle plate itself was so far off dimensionally, it wouldn't even fit in the tank in the position it was supposed to. Also the support baffle had wear marks on it from fasteners from where it had clearly been installed in something before and came shipped with spider webs all in it.

In the end I had to do some trimming on the baffle plate and support baffle to get everything to fit. The baffle plate needed the most with the top, left, bottom, and upper right all needing at least 1/4" trimmed off. The support baffle had to have the little cross reinforcement at the bottom cut out to clear the reinforcement X molded into the bottom of the fuel tank.

All the hardware is now in the new tank though. Just need to get a chance to drop the old tank and transfer the needed hardware to the new one. Have new 2" hose to go from the filler neck to the tank (got it from O'Reilly and it is a lot heavier duty than the plain rubber hose the truck came with) and some new vent to filler neck hose.

I have wondered about some of the parts I get from Kascar. I try to always order from Mac Motors and have good luck with them and very fast shipping. But back to Kascar, I know for a fact some of their parts are made in house or at a fab shop, for example the spacer plates for the airlift bumper were way off as were the hardtop windshield frame lower inside mounting plates. The parts came the same as you described with the wire tag and dusty. The windshield plates were even sprayed with some black paint that was clearly not CARC more like POR15 and glossy. They are third down on my list of places to get parts from, but they do have a large selection. I try to stick with Mac Motors, then Hummer Parts Guy, then Kascar.

Really... Now that's very interesting...

I know all the parts I've ordered from Hummer Parts Guy have come with factory stickers on them, showing origination in South Bend.

After this, I'm definitely going to be moving more of my parts orders to Mac and HPG and saving Kascar for last resort.

Something cool to share with you all...

Several days ago I sent in a sample request to db Engineering for a couple product samples, namely their 1" and 2" Mylar engine compartment insulation and Military Green floormat. I told them in the request form what the application was for and that I was just an individual purchaser. They got back with me right away and let me know that while there were no minimum quantity or dollar amount orders, the products are only available in 10'x4.5' rolls. I told them that wouldn't be a problem as, if I decided to go with their product, I'd likely be ordering at least 2 rolls of the insulation (1 maybe 2 for underhood and firewall, 1 for under the tunnel).

Got home today and found an actual box with a bunch of samples from them! I was just expecting maybe a couple 1"x1" squares in an envelope.

Here's what all they sent me:

Engine compartment insulation



Military Green floormat



Floormat texture sample





General product sample card





The products seem really nice for the prices they have listed!

The Military Green floormat is pretty much identical to the factory floormat material in these trucks. It would of course need cut to desired size and shape. Also for you folks with tan trucks, as you may note on the sample card, it is available in Desert Tan which would be much better than sticking the green factory mat in there, in my opinion. The diamond plate mat is also pretty nice but no idea if that's available in anything other than black.

The engine compartment insulation seems really nice and pretty inexpensive. I think I'm going to go with the reinforced Mylar insulation then go with 2" on the firewall and under the drivetrain tunnel (assuming it clears after I do some checking) and, the 1" under the hood. Might even go 2" all around... The adhesive backing seems very strong! The only "con" to their engine compartment insulation I can find is that their design seems to use an open cell foam design as opposed to a butyl rubber (like Boom Mat or Dynamat). This means it will probably hold water so it might be a good idea to get their edge seal tape which comes in 1" or 2" widths for the appropriate insulation thickness. The upside to that is that it is going to be lighter weight and bit easier to work with.

Also, one product included on the card that looks interesting which I hadn't inquired about since I didn't need it is their headliner. If you've got a hard top truck, this might be something worth considering to help kill interior noise. They don't have a Military Green to match the floormat (you'd probably want to just do black) but, the Sandpiper color goes well with the Desert Tan floormat.

I also liked their other products they had on the card. If your're looking for traction, the Shur-Step friction tape seems pretty heavy duty. It comes in 6"x20' rolls. And they also have a product called X-135 Gasketing which is a D shaped weatherstripping that might be good for sealing up your tailgate or sealing up door openings.

Looking forward to picking some of this stuff up! Will probably tackle this in the summer time.

I was looking at adding some sound insulation to the engine compartment if I pull the engine out my self. There doesn't look like a lot of spare room for a ton of insulation though. Need to look to see where I could actually put some. I am also planning on running some extra wires for LED lights since I will have all the open space to do so.

A friend recently bought one and would like to find a "dummy" gun to mount for parades. Anyone have a source for one that's under $1k?

Where is he planning on mounting it? Is it a slantback, gmv, 2 man or 4 man? Depending on the configuration you can get airsoft m249 for $200+.

I'm not sure. He mentioned that he wanted a .50. Do they make those in airsoft?

There are very few M2hb airsoft out there that look real and they cost a lot, more than 1k even over 2k for ones like this link.

If it is not a slantback or gmv with a turret, he will need some way to mount it. Only way I can think of in a 2 man or 4 man is a pedestal in the bed such as an M6 or even rarer M7 pedestals. Both can mount a 50, but are usually seen with an M240 or M249.

Resin M2 at Gunbroker, $375 - http://www.gunbroker.com/item/616556905

Doesn't look half bad to me...

Neat! I'll send him the link.

Thanks!

So I am still dealing with the dead engine. Tried the hand cranking and it moves a little. Plan is to remove the engine in the next month. Problem I have is I need to turn the truck around. Pulling the hmmwv out of the garage is easy, just tie it to my truck and the air lift bumper and pull it out. Going back in is the difficult part as the drive way is angled and there are no good pushing points on the front. Once I get this part done, then I am looking at upgrading the 6.2 to a 6.5na from Military Drivetrains. They claim their engines are remanufactured by MTP which is a gov vendor and on their facebook page have done work on the Duck Dynasty guy's hmmwv. I looked at CUCV engines, but they required parts to be swapped out and I rather have a plug and play option. I have also seen a few HMMWV engines for sale, but with no history and shipping I am leaning away from that route at this time. Plus I would like one that has the 200amp alternator and upgrade that while I am there. Anyone here have experience taking the engine out or tips?

While I am slowly doing this I have been finishing the paint which would have been done, just need to finish the doors and part of one side and some accessories. I also have some Auxbeam LED fog lights coming in that I am planning on sticking 2 up front and 2 in the rear. With the engine out I plan on routing the wires and need to route the Ibis Tek Light bar wire too since that area will be open. On rear lighting I got an Ibis tek Golight search light that I plan on mounting on the rear sponsons using a Blue Force Tracker mount..

Also got the KNS pintle mount and it doesn't fit the M249 pintle as there are tabs on the pintle which prevent it from setting all the way in. I need to dig out my 30cal pintle for my 1919 as I know it will fit that. Only real negative to the mount is that it is bulky and not quick release, but it looks like it will hold up. Hoping to see if Ed saw any others at Shot that are for UTV's that might fit better.

Finally got the beast out of the shop for all the under-body mechanical work (12K half-shafts, rear lockers, 200A generator, shocks, steering arms, and a host of other minor mechanical issues along with a full "C" service) and up to the house.   I worked with one of the shops here in Golden, CO who does primarily Hummer work but his guys love working on the mil-spec models since they're so much easier to take apart and put together, and you never have to worry about scratching the paint.    His guys did a pretty bang-up job on the mechanical side, and it's nice to now have a "reference" for maintaining it going forward.  



Needless to say the neighbors were fist pumping in the air as I drove into the driveway (even though I couldn't hear a word they were saying from inside the truck with that great diesel engine noise...)



Now comes the fun work -- bringing it into spec above the motor and drive-train.    Got the license plate holder installed today to be completely "street legal", but have a number of "clean up" items to get to (LED headlight install, side marker light replacement, seats re-covered, etc) before getting to the fun additions and refurb to make driving around (both on and off road) more fun.   One thing I wasn't expecting is that the X-Door hinge pins don't fit all the way down on the posts that the soft doors use... guess it'll be back to e-bay or MacMotors to find the right hinges...

The hinge posts are slotted and can be moved up and down to make minor adjustments. Looks good.

Thanks -- I'll check that out tomorrow and see if I can get them to move enough to accommodate the x doors brackets.  It looked like the full-roll around of the X-door tube that sits on the pin was hitting the bracket before it could get even close to being seated (like the posts weren't placed out far enough), while the soft door hinge just had a straight metal bracket welded to a narrower ring.  



Of course it looks like the brackets have some sort of different bolt heads than standard... ill see what I have around the garage that might fit to loosen & tighten.

Can you take a picture from the other side as those don't look like x door parts?

As for the bracket, i think its a 12pt 1/4 socket.

I received the Ibis Tek Golights in today. Mounts similar to their light bars and hangs over the side mirrors. Not sure if this is where I am going to mount them or not. I have another type of mount coming tomorrow for the rear sponson that I am going to try. Below is the light mocked up. Need to install the light bar to get a better idea. Good thing is they still clear the garage door opening.

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You have a link where you got those brackets or did they just come with the lights? I've got the two remote controlled spot lights that are part of my EyeCon MRAP kit. Was planning on putting one front mounted on top of the Ibis Tek bar and one in the rear on the cargo rack when I get it built but I like those mounts, they may be a better way to go.

They came as part of the kit. Below are the parts number. I can take better pictures of the mount when I get home as you could have some made. It was a little frustrating at first because they are labeled wrong (Driver side was labeled passenger) and the instructions aren't 100% accurate from page to page.

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Been a while since I've posted.  So, here's my HMMWV update.  It turns out that it barely fits on the jeep trails at my parent's house, which is where my wife managed to bend in the right front door a little, and snapped off the rear door handle, and a plastic clip for the cargo cover.  So the cover is off and I finally ordered 2 new door handles.  The antenna is mounted.  And tall.  I really need to tie it down.
But my 6-year old batteries took a crap and apparently took the glow plugs with them.  I put in 2 new batteries and it would only start with ether.  After starting to pull plugs, I discovered 4 were swollen.  I need to finish pulling the plugs today or tomorrow.


Plus I got to tow my brother's hmmwv about 50 feet forward and back, so he could fit his car in the garage.



I did rig up a temporary bulkhead to keep the back of the canvas from lifting and letting cold air in.

I've been reading the posts but I haven't done much with mine yet. I did get all the parts (I think) that I need to make it a 4 man truck. I've been driving it a bit and it runs strong and I'm even surprised that it's not as horrible in the really cold as I thought it would be.

Well, the old swollen plugs are out (one had a broken tip) and the HMMWV starts right up again.  After about 30 seconds I noticed an odd tick/knock sound, but I probably haven't run the 998 with the hood open since the day I picked it up, so it may have been my imagination.  It doesn't help that I drive at least 3 completely different vehicles on a daily basis, so I can never gain complete familiarity with one.  But after about 5 minutes of idling followed by 5 minutes of country road driving my WAIT light came back on.  So, I'm off to the TMs.

Did you get the broken tip out? If not that is the tick/knock you are hearing which isn't good.

Yeah, if you could snap some pics of the brackets that would be great!

Here's a pic of the brackets that came with the MRAP kit. You can tell how it would bolt to the windshield frame on the truck. I might be able to adapt/modify these depending on what your GoLight mounts look like.





Your bro has a good looking truck!

I'm guessing the ship has already sailed for you but, a local friend ordered this kit from Breton Industries. I've seen it getting installed on his truck. It includes everything needed to turn a 2 man into a 4 man, including things like the C-pillar. Only thing it doesn't include is rear seat belts and anchors but those are pretty easy to find on ebay.



I get a ticking noise when mine gets warm. Did some investigating and found some of my V-belts were slapping together. I do need to get those replaced soon...

Could also be a noisy injector. Or, like Jake said, the remains of that tip if you didn't get it out.

As for the driving part, are you going to dig into the TMs because the wait light is coming on after the driving or because it isn't? Wasn't sure if there was a typo in there but your light may be acting normally depending.

The noise seemed to go away after the drive.  It's going to do some running this weekend before I let it go back to work.  I haven't really seen anything about the wait to start light yet (light is coming on while driving).  Maybe it's just a loose connection somewhere.

If there were tip remnants in there, it's possible they were expelled during the drive. Not really good for the engine but probably didn't hurt anything. I've heard of people having it happen with no ill effects.

As for the wait light, coming on when not wanted is a new one for me! Usually it's the other way around. What EESS box do you have installed?



On a different note, if anyone is looking for some specialty tools like seal and bearing installers, I've found a rather extensive set specifically for HMMWVs from a seller on eBay.

I really probably shouldn't have spent the money but, since I've only had to replace one of the 4 diff output seals, have a pinion seal that needs replaced, and will likely have more wear components like that in the future that need replaced, it seemed like a good idea for such an extensive set of tools that are otherwise a bit hard to find without having to make your own.

By the way, the seller will accept an offer of $200 so, as usual, feel free to try better!