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Hoping the original poster will come back and update us. Really hope S&W makes this situation right in the end.
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Just to fill in some time and bump this at the same time...
I shot the hell out of both my M&P 9's (accurate at 15yds at bowling pins and 40 yds at an 18"x12" dinger plate) and Airweight this holiday weekend. No hickups at all. Even shot a couple problem free mags through a Kimber 1911 and asked the owner if he'd ever had problems w/ it. 7 or 8k rounds and zero problems with all factory ammo. He did have to dial in reloads though... |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The reason that the 1911 is still in production after 100 years is precisely because it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box. Of course, one must remember that there are dozens of companies manufacturing 1911s now and not all of them do it well. If Para or Auto Ordnance made Glock 17s, they would suck too. I'm sorry to hear of your continuing problems, but this is the exact reason that, after owning 7 or 8 1911's, I finally sold them all. I got tired of spending countless time, money, ammo and frustration trying to get them to run right, and even the ones that did required a certain brand of ammo or special mags (some of which would work in one gun but not in another). When I finally gave up and sold the last one I felt like someone had let me out of jail. It's kind of amazing that after 100 years of existence, it's still difficult to just go buy a 1911 that runs right straight out of the box with any current factory ammo. Good luck OP, I hope you get one that works. And I hope it happens before you have the value of the gun tied up in ammo and mags. You do realize that you just contradicted yourself don't you? You told me that it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box, then explained to me why some don't run right out of the box. Not trying to start something, we can agree to disagree. I just wondered if you saw the inconsistency in your statement. And one of the examples I bought that wouldn't run was a Colt. Everyone makes a lemon now and again, but even Colt couldn't make that gun run, and they didn't even offer a replacement like S&W offered to the OP, the gun shop had to step up and handle it. I was at the range the other day, this guy was showing my his prize Colt 1911. I asked him if its 100% stock and he said it was (except for the grips). He gave me a full mag and said "hey go shoot it". FTE EVERY OTHER ROUND. This is the consistent experience I have had with the 1911 platform...about 4 of 5 I have tried, even from the top brands like Colt and Kimber...I couldn't get through a full mag without some kind of issue, or if I could, the owner could not. Its not my technique, its the pistol. |
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I'm going through the same thing with my son's SW1911. Been to the factory twice now and just got it back yesterday. It was "fixed" exactly like the OP's was and still didn't work. In fact, the "work performed" read exactly like the OP's. Haven't had a chance to take it out yet but I'll report back when we do. My son saved for a long time just to have this happen to him.
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FTE EVERY OTHER ROUND. This is the consistent experience I have had with the 1911 platform...about 4 of 5 I have tried, even from the top brands like Colt and Kimber...I couldn't get through a full mag without some kind of issue, or if I could, the owner could not. Its not my technique, its the pistol. That's not the norm. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The reason that the 1911 is still in production after 100 years is precisely because it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box. Of course, one must remember that there are dozens of companies manufacturing 1911s now and not all of them do it well. If Para or Auto Ordnance made Glock 17s, they would suck too. I'm sorry to hear of your continuing problems, but this is the exact reason that, after owning 7 or 8 1911's, I finally sold them all. I got tired of spending countless time, money, ammo and frustration trying to get them to run right, and even the ones that did required a certain brand of ammo or special mags (some of which would work in one gun but not in another). When I finally gave up and sold the last one I felt like someone had let me out of jail. It's kind of amazing that after 100 years of existence, it's still difficult to just go buy a 1911 that runs right straight out of the box with any current factory ammo. Good luck OP, I hope you get one that works. And I hope it happens before you have the value of the gun tied up in ammo and mags. You do realize that you just contradicted yourself don't you? You told me that it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box, then explained to me why some don't run right out of the box. Not trying to start something, we can agree to disagree. I just wondered if you saw the inconsistency in your statement. And one of the examples I bought that wouldn't run was a Colt. Everyone makes a lemon now and again, but even Colt couldn't make that gun run, and they didn't even offer a replacement like S&W offered to the OP, the gun shop had to step up and handle it. I was at the range the other day, this guy was showing my his prize Colt 1911. I asked him if its 100% stock and he said it was (except for the grips). He gave me a full mag and said "hey go shoot it". FTE EVERY OTHER ROUND. This is the consistent experience I have had with the 1911 platform...about 4 of 5 I have tried, even from the top brands like Colt and Kimber...I couldn't get through a full mag without some kind of issue, or if I could, the owner could not. Its not my technique, its the pistol. What did the owner say when you had a FTE on every other round with his gun? If I had a gun that bad I wouldn't be showing someone else it, let alone have have them shot it.... |
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Limp wrist? Please don't "flatuate" in my thread. Thank you. |
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Great news.
I hope it continues to be a reliable shooter for you. |
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S&W is a very fine company. I had a few issues with an M&P9 and they took care of me.
I'm glad your 1911 is running as it should, it's about time. So CMC mags were the key? |
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Limp wrist? Please don't "flatuate" in my thread. Thank you. for the love of... that's what I get for not putting in quotes what I was responding toward... Quoted:
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The reason that the 1911 is still in production after 100 years is precisely because it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box. Of course, one must remember that there are dozens of companies manufacturing 1911s now and not all of them do it well. If Para or Auto Ordnance made Glock 17s, they would suck too.
I'm sorry to hear of your continuing problems, but this is the exact reason that, after owning 7 or 8 1911's, I finally sold them all. I got tired of spending countless time, money, ammo and frustration trying to get them to run right, and even the ones that did required a certain brand of ammo or special mags (some of which would work in one gun but not in another). When I finally gave up and sold the last one I felt like someone had let me out of jail. It's kind of amazing that after 100 years of existence, it's still difficult to just go buy a 1911 that runs right straight out of the box with any current factory ammo. Good luck OP, I hope you get one that works. And I hope it happens before you have the value of the gun tied up in ammo and mags. You do realize that you just contradicted yourself don't you? You told me that it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box, then explained to me why some don't run right out of the box. Not trying to start something, we can agree to disagree. I just wondered if you saw the inconsistency in your statement. And one of the examples I bought that wouldn't run was a Colt. Everyone makes a lemon now and again, but even Colt couldn't make that gun run, and they didn't even offer a replacement like S&W offered to the OP, the gun shop had to step up and handle it. I was at the range the other day, this guy was showing my his prize Colt 1911. I asked him if its 100% stock and he said it was (except for the grips). He gave me a full mag and said "hey go shoot it". FTE EVERY OTHER ROUND. This is the consistent experience I have had with the 1911 platform...about 4 of 5 I have tried, even from the top brands like Colt and Kimber...I couldn't get through a full mag without some kind of issue, or if I could, the owner could not. Its not my technique, its the pistol. What did the owner say when you had a FTE on every other round with his gun? If I had a gun that bad I wouldn't be showing someone else it, let alone have have them shot it.... |
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CMC Power mags and Tripp are the only two I use for my 1911's now. I've discarded all my old Wilson 47s and do not plan on buying any more. Glad to see you pistol is up and running like it should.
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground)
On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. |
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground) On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. Nope, that extractor pin can definitely work it's way straight down into the slide rails and lock up and/or damage the pistol as it has done on at least one other pistol that I know of, which was equipped with the original solid pin design. I'll have to take care of it with a permanent fix. |
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground) On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. Nope, that extractor pin can definitely work it's way straight down into the slide rails and lock up and/or damage the pistol as it has done on at least one other pistol that I know of, which was equipped with the original solid pin design. I'll have to take care of it with a permanent fix. Won't it be stopped from dropping further by the slide rail? |
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground) On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. Nope, that extractor pin can definitely work it's way straight down into the slide rails and lock up and/or damage the pistol as it has done on at least one other pistol that I know of, which was equipped with the original solid pin design. I'll have to take care of it with a permanent fix. can u peen it with a punch? Im not sure what kind of failures it would induce by resting on the rail. As long as you keep the gun well lubed it shouldn't affect it much. |
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground) On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. Nope, that extractor pin can definitely work it's way straight down into the slide rails and lock up and/or damage the pistol as it has done on at least one other pistol that I know of, which was equipped with the original solid pin design. I'll have to take care of it with a permanent fix. Won't it be stopped from dropping further by the slide rail? I'm betting that pin is way harder than the frame and could chew a nice gouge in it if allowed to ride on it for any length of time. |
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OP
Thats great news CM mags are GTG BTW My gunsmith hates those wilson mags maybe he knows something?? |
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Your gun may have just needed a break in. I'd go shoot those other mags again and see what happens.
And FWIW, my only McCormick powermag crapped out after less than 200rd. Guess I got a lemon since they seem to be well regarded around here. The extractor pin thing sucks. My S&W 1006 is down right now because of a similiar issue. Not the best design, imo |
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The reason that the 1911 is still in production after 100 years is precisely because it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box. Of course, one must remember that there are dozens of companies manufacturing 1911s now and not all of them do it well. If Para or Auto Ordnance made Glock 17s, they would suck too.
I'm sorry to hear of your continuing problems, but this is the exact reason that, after owning 7 or 8 1911's, I finally sold them all. I got tired of spending countless time, money, ammo and frustration trying to get them to run right, and even the ones that did required a certain brand of ammo or special mags (some of which would work in one gun but not in another). When I finally gave up and sold the last one I felt like someone had let me out of jail. It's kind of amazing that after 100 years of existence, it's still difficult to just go buy a 1911 that runs right straight out of the box with any current factory ammo. Good luck OP, I hope you get one that works. And I hope it happens before you have the value of the gun tied up in ammo and mags. You do realize that you just contradicted yourself don't you? You told me that it isn't difficult to buy one that runs right out of the box, then explained to me why some don't run right out of the box. Not trying to start something, we can agree to disagree. I just wondered if you saw the inconsistency in your statement. And one of the examples I bought that wouldn't run was a Colt. Everyone makes a lemon now and again, but even Colt couldn't make that gun run, and they didn't even offer a replacement like S&W offered to the OP, the gun shop had to step up and handle it. I was at the range the other day, this guy was showing my his prize Colt 1911. I asked him if its 100% stock and he said it was (except for the grips). He gave me a full mag and said "hey go shoot it". FTE EVERY OTHER ROUND. This is the consistent experience I have had with the 1911 platform...about 4 of 5 I have tried, even from the top brands like Colt and Kimber...I couldn't get through a full mag without some kind of issue, or if I could, the owner could not. Its not my technique, its the pistol. That's your problem. |
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground) On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. Nope, that extractor pin can definitely work it's way straight down into the slide rails and lock up and/or damage the pistol as it has done on at least one other pistol that I know of, which was equipped with the original solid pin design. I'll have to take care of it with a permanent fix. Won't it be stopped from dropping further by the slide rail? From Hilton Yam regarding his own gun locking up due to this very same problem. The pin will lock up the slide to the frame if allowed to float around in it's hole, Its a problem Smith and Wesson has been made aware of and it needs to be fixed via a production change. " The initial testing consisted of 150 rounds of Black Hills 230 grain ball, which went well and quite uneventfully. The Black Hills ammunition is of the highest quality, and all rounds fed and fired smoothly. When moving on to some Black Hills 230 grain JHP, the gun inexplicably locked open about 10 rounds into the firing. The slide stop was not engaged, and the slide would not move forward or backward. It was locked up tight and it took me a minute to figure out what happened. The extractor pin had worked loose, and had dropped down out of the slide as it cycled rearward. The pin dropped behind the frame, holding the slide to the rear. It took a bit of work to hold the slide to the rear and push the pin back into the slide, thus allowing the slide to return forward. " |
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Now that I think about it, my S&W 3913 has a solid roll pin for it's external extractor...
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My M&P .40 fs and c's have the solid roll pin for the extractors. Never had a problem in K's of rounds. It might be a problem with some pistols but I've not noticed it with the M&P's.
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"The pin dropped behind the frame, holding the slide to the rear. It took a bit of work to hold the slide to the rear and push the pin back into the slide, thus allowing the slide to return forward. " [/span] OK, I couldn't tell from the photos whether the pin was far enough back to do that. thanks |
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Quoted: To my surprise, as well as my delight; the pistol ran like a Rolex with any and all of the ammunition I put through it. 250 perfect rounds with the CMC Power Mags and I tried to intentionally limp wrist the gun as well; but no matter how I tried, it would not choke at all. I shot the snot out of the gun, firing as rapidly as I could pull the trigger; not a single malfunction or stoppage. CMC Power Mags are my go-to 1911 mags. Glad your 1911 is running now. |
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground) On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. Nope, that extractor pin can definitely work it's way straight down into the slide rails and lock up and/or damage the pistol as it has done on at least one other pistol that I know of, which was equipped with the original solid pin design. I'll have to take care of it with a permanent fix. Won't it be stopped from dropping further by the slide rail? From Hilton Yam regarding his own gun locking up due to this very same problem. The pin will lock up the slide to the frame if allowed to float around in it's hole, Its a problem Smith and Wesson has been made aware of and it needs to be fixed via a production change. " The initial testing consisted of 150 rounds of Black Hills 230 grain ball, which went well and quite uneventfully. The Black Hills ammunition is of the highest quality, and all rounds fed and fired smoothly. When moving on to some Black Hills 230 grain JHP, the gun inexplicably locked open about 10 rounds into the firing. The slide stop was not engaged, and the slide would not move forward or backward. It was locked up tight and it took me a minute to figure out what happened. The extractor pin had worked loose, and had dropped down out of the slide as it cycled rearward. The pin dropped behind the frame, holding the slide to the rear. It took a bit of work to hold the slide to the rear and push the pin back into the slide, thus allowing the slide to return forward. " That isn't good. Glad I bought a colt with internal extractor now...and I'm a SW guy. |
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I just want to thank you wholeheartedly for chronicling this entire fiasco for us in such a complete, unbiased and non-bitter fashion. Not many people would or even could manage that like you have. Your posts were never - even at the lowest, most disappointing times for you - disparaging toward Smith and Wesson or angry in the least. You always presented things in a matter-of-fact way, explained to us the exact details of your shooting sessions and impressions, and took detailed, informative pictures.
Your posts and this thread exemplify perfectly why the gun community is so tight and friendly. I'm happy to be a part of it. Thank you! |
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I just want to thank you wholeheartedly for chronicling this entire fiasco for us in such a complete, unbiased and non-bitter fashion. Not many people would or even could manage that like you have. Your posts were never - even at the lowest, most disappointing times for you - disparaging toward Smith and Wesson or angry in the least. You always presented things in a matter-of-fact way, explained to us the exact details of your shooting sessions and impressions, and took detailed, informative pictures. Your posts and this thread exemplify perfectly why the gun community is so tight and friendly. I'm happy to be a part of it. Thank you! +1 I agree wholeheartedly. (Very fine post XMM. ) |
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Great thread, especially since I bought one of these just prior to you posting this. |
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Quoted: +2 Great thread, especially since I bought one of these just prior to you posting this. So how does yours run? |
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Herb Belin is the product developer behind the E Series. Anybody know if he is following this thread?
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Glad to hear you finally got some traction with this issue. (BREAKING: S&W's HQ narrowly avoids burning to the ground) On the extractor pin: it doesn't appear that the pin can actually drop down past the frame rail while the slide is on the gun, is this correct? As long as it's where it's supposed to be when you reassemble it, I don't think it will ever be a problem... unless it somehow works out the top of the slide. And staking the pin hole from the top would prevent that. Nope, that extractor pin can definitely work it's way straight down into the slide rails and lock up and/or damage the pistol as it has done on at least one other pistol that I know of, which was equipped with the original solid pin design. I'll have to take care of it with a permanent fix. Won't it be stopped from dropping further by the slide rail? From Hilton Yam regarding his own gun locking up due to this very same problem. The pin will lock up the slide to the frame if allowed to float around in it's hole, Its a problem Smith and Wesson has been made aware of and it needs to be fixed via a production change. " The initial testing consisted of 150 rounds of Black Hills 230 grain ball, which went well and quite uneventfully. The Black Hills ammunition is of the highest quality, and all rounds fed and fired smoothly. When moving on to some Black Hills 230 grain JHP, the gun inexplicably locked open about 10 rounds into the firing. The slide stop was not engaged, and the slide would not move forward or backward. It was locked up tight and it took me a minute to figure out what happened. The extractor pin had worked loose, and had dropped down out of the slide as it cycled rearward. The pin dropped behind the frame, holding the slide to the rear. It took a bit of work to hold the slide to the rear and push the pin back into the slide, thus allowing the slide to return forward. " That isn't good. Glad I bought a colt with internal extractor now...and I'm a SW guy. I don't believe there is much to worry about regarding the issue of the extractor pin drifting, I only mentioned it because I think it's something for owners to look out for. I had noticed that the original solid pin on my original pistol, which was eventually replaced by the company, was drifting and migrating down into the frame before I read Hilton Yam's article. S&W has been doing external extractors for decades and their original series 1911 pistols have proven exceptionally reliable with them. My M&Ps are pushing 20,000 rounds between them and they are of the older solid pin extractor design, rather than the newer spiral roll pin design, and the pins on those pistols haven't dropped down more than the slightest bit. It should be noted that while the pins in both of the E Series 1911 TA pistols I had were sort of loose and easy to reposition with a punch; the extrator pins on my M&Ps appear to have been installed with some sort of hydraulic ram; they will not budge. Maybe the pin holes on the E Series guns are too large; I really don't know but IMO, they are too loose; both those with the original solid pin as well as the newer roll pin. It would be easy for the factory to stake the roll pin; I don't know why they do not. IMO, the E Series are beautiful, feature laden pistols, for the money; but again IMO, they have teething issues which might be the result of moving production to Houltion Maine and manufacturing them on brand new CNC machines rather than on the machinery that produced the original S&W 1911 pistols; and then releasing them to the public a bit too soon. As I said, the E Series 1911 TA serial # UCK 7xxx which the company sent me as a replacement for serial #UCK 3624, is a fine pistol and I am satisfied with it as well as how the company resolved my problems by totally replacing the original gun that neither they nor I could get to work. I do think that S&W should have been more careful about resolving all production issues that have seemed to arise with the E Series guns, before putting them on the market. |
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+2 Great thread, especially since I bought one of these just prior to you posting this. So how does yours run? I've only shot about 300 rounds of WWB with the factory mags, and it's been great. Don't know if it matters, but mine is a SC model with a 4.25 barrel (I know the OP's is a full size). |
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today I was about to leva home to cabelas to purchase the smith and wesson 1911 e series but after reading this review i decided to hold and wait for more review about this gun.
I really like the looks of this weapon but I'm not going to spend $1200 and have to deal with all this b.s. I think I,ll get the colt rail gun or the kimber desert warrior. |
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today I was about to leva home to cabelas to purchase the smith and wesson 1911 e series but after reading this review i decided to hold and wait for more review about this gun. I really like the looks of this weapon but I'm not going to spend $1200 and have to deal with all this b.s. I think I,ll get the colt rail gun or the kimber desert warrior. I bought the rail gun. It runs great but it has the typical colt finishing which is mediocre if finish is your pet peeve.The mechanical fit is quite good for a colt. The frame to slide fit is very nice compared to my old series 80. I did have to tweak the grip safety leaf spring to tighten that up a bit. The grip safety would rattle when I walked with the gun holstered. It's fine now. |
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If you replace that roll pin with a spring pin it probably won't ever move again. Spring pins are usually stiffer depending on diameter. The roll pin looks spiral from the end while a spring pin looks like the letter C. Most AR15 pins are spring pins.
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+2 Great thread, especially since I bought one of these just prior to you posting this. So how does yours run? I've only shot about 300 rounds of WWB with the factory mags, and it's been great. Don't know if it matters, but mine is a SC model with a 4.25 barrel (I know the OP's is a full size). I'm glad to hear that your SC hasn't given you any problems but, except for some of the internal parts, it is an entirely different pistol than mine. Totally different slide, barrel, and frame. I hope you continue to have good luck with it and that it shoots various types of self defense hollow point ammunition for you as well as the WWB FMJ. |
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<snip> http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6237/img1375k.jpg I'm beginning to like this pistol a lot. Beautiful pistol and great pics. Glad it's finally working right for you! I give you a lot of credit for the way you handled the situation too! You must be a very patient man. |
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<snip> http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6237/img1375k.jpg I'm beginning to like this pistol a lot. Beautiful pistol and great pics. Glad it's [span style='font-style: italic;']finally working right for you! I give you a lot of credit for the way you handled the situation too! You must be a very patient man. Not really; but I didnt have much of a choice. I bought the pistol, on a whim, back on March 19th as a present to myself for the anniversary of the quadruple heart bypass I underwent last year; I figured the many problems I had with the original gun weren't worth having a heart attack over. I learned a few things, one of which is never make a reasonably expensive firearms purchase without doing the necessary research first; when I factor in a second transfer fee, magazines, and the ammunition and range time I paid for, for what I already have in this E Series 1911 TA pistol just getting one that will run satisfactorily, I could have gotten myself a Les Baer and less headaches. |
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She really is a beauty. Glad she's working out for you now. Thanks, I've run 350 rounds of assorted ammunition through the pistol including Federal P45HST2, Winchester RA45B, 230 grain PMC Bronze FMJ and 230 grain WWB FMJ using the 8 round CMC Power Mags and there were no stoppages or malfunctions. The Wilson Combat 47Ds will feed hardball fairly regularly but not the hollow point ammo and the factory ACT magazines don't run at all reliably. For the life of me, I don't know why the factory magazines weren't tested along with the replacmement pistol before the gun was shipped to me. Since the factory suplloed ACTs are of good quality and they have proven to run well in other Smith and Wesson 1911s, I'm not sure that I can properly describe the difficulties I'm having with them and the Wilson 47Ds as well, as "magazine problems"; I believe the problem should be described as a "gun problem" that has been worked around by using a specific type of magazine, namely the Chip McCormick Power Mags. So far as the problem with the newly designed extractor pin which is being installed in later production in lieu of the original solid pin; that "fix" doesn't seem to have improved anything. My original gun serial #UCK3624 had the original solid pin and it's replacement serial # UCK 7xxxx has the new roll pin and the exact same problem. I reinstalled the pin with some blue locktite to see if the pin will stay in place rather than continue to drift down into the slide rails as the pistol is fired. I continue to be satisfied with this pistol as well as with the way Smith and Wesson ultimately resolved the issues with my original gun by replacing it with another one. IMO and based on my personal experience with 2 pistols separated by roughly 3500 serial numbers, there might still be additional production changes that need to be made to make things 100% with these pistols. |
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today I was about to leva home to cabelas to purchase the smith and wesson 1911 e series but after reading this review i decided to hold and wait for more review about this gun. I really like the looks of this weapon but I'm not going to spend $1200 and have to deal with all this b.s. I think I,ll get the colt rail gun or the kimber desert warrior. I'm liking the one I have now quite a bit; but it's best to read up before you fork over your money. I didn't. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=324129 |
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today I was about to leva home to cabelas to purchase the smith and wesson 1911 e series but after reading this review i decided to hold and wait for more review about this gun. I really like the looks of this weapon but I'm not going to spend $1200 and have to deal with all this b.s. I think I,ll get the colt rail gun or the kimber desert warrior. I'm liking the one I have now quite a bit; but it's best to read up before you fork over your money. I didn't. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=324129 I finally took my railed E series to the range and put roughly 500 rds downrange with 2 different kinds of ball and 4 different JHPs. It functioned 100% with the exception of 1 FTE and 1 FTF. They were both with the same magazine using CorBon 230gr +P JHP and after shooting 250+ rds of very dirty UMC bulk ammo. I used CMC mags and an 18.5 lb recoil spring. I paid under 1200. My TLR1 fits very nicely on the pistol. Not sure if the extra 300+ is worth it for the rail but that seems to be the going rate for a railed 1911. The pistol was nicely dehorned from the factory and I like the overall fit and finish of the big pieces and I can live with the MIM internals for a pistol at this price point. In order to get these features without MIM parts, the jump is easily to 2k if not more. |
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today I was about to leva home to cabelas to purchase the smith and wesson 1911 e series but after reading this review i decided to hold and wait for more review about this gun. I really like the looks of this weapon but I'm not going to spend $1200 and have to deal with all this b.s. I think I,ll get the colt rail gun or the kimber desert warrior. I'm liking the one I have now quite a bit; but it's best to read up before you fork over your money. I didn't. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=324129 Good advice about research AF. We have all bought something before doing our research so don't feel bad. I'm certainly guilty. Even when you do all your research sometimes you still get a lemon. I got a G27 that was busted from day one. It went to Glock for an overhaul before it would run 30 rounds without a stove pipe. They made it right. |
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S&W is a good company, I own many of their products and I like them. But your situation was unacceptable and, IMO, their handling of it was unacceptable as well. The gun should run with factory mags, they shouldn't have returned it with mags that won't function in the gun or with a list of 2 types of ammo it will run with, both FMJ.
I'm happy for you that you're satisfied with the situation, if it were me I'd be sending some more letters back to S&W. The very least they should do is swap the factory mags out for ones that work and give you something in return for you extra hassle and expense to get their high end 1911 working.
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