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Posted: 7/2/2024 10:04:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Duffy]
[#1]
If you never intend to change the optics or the footprint, direct mount makes sense.
In so doing, you eliminate the ability to change to newer and possibly better optics that use a different footprint. With a competent plate, the only drawback for some (to me it isn't) is the slightly taller installed height of the RDS, but in exchange, you gain the flexibility a plate system offers. If you use a reputable and honest shop to do the milling, it'd be properly milled and finished, but I've seen many milled RMR slights without the two front lugs, and ACRO footprint that's out of spec. I do wonder if they have the prints for RMR and ACRO footprint. Once milled, there's no going back. With MOS or any plate system, if you got a cheap 6061 aluminum plates made by people that have no business behind a machine, you can always replace the garbage plate with a good one. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 7/2/2024 11:15:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TactiCoolBro]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Duffy: If you never intend to change the optics or the footprint, direct mount makes sense. In so doing, you eliminate the ability to change to newer and possibly better optics that use a different footprint. With a competent plate, the only drawback for some (to me it isn't) is the slightly taller installed height of the RDS, but in exchange, you gain the flexibility a plate system offers. If you use a reputable and honest shop to do the milling, it'd be properly milled and finished, but I've seen many milled RMR slights without the two front lugs, and ACRO footprint that's out of spec. I do wonder if they have the prints for RMR and ACRO footprint. Once milled, there's no going back. With MOS or any plate system, if you got a cheap 6061 aluminum plates made by people that have no business behind a machine, you can always replace the garbage plate with a good one. Crappy thing is #1. Some guns don’t offer the option of direct mill because they’re offered optic ready only, which blows. #2. Even a reputable company is rolling the dice as far as a great fitting plate due to two things: 1. The varying tolerance of the optic manufacturer. 2. The varying tolerance of the slide manufacturer. There’s simply no way it’s possible to make one plate that’s going to always fit your slide and/or optic perfectly. So they’re forced to make both with some degree of slop. IMO you GREATLY eliminate most, if not all, the concerns of the latter two points by having the slide milled per your optic you sent them. I’m going through all this now with a newly purchased M&P 2.0 Metal. They’re only offered optic ready, which I loathe. I’m going with a calculated kinetics plate because from all I see, they’ve got a reputation for great quality plates. But I already know before I even get it that I’m going to be disappointed in the fit of the slide-to-plate and/or plate-to-optic to at least some extent since all my current slides are direct mill with zero play at all. I can turn the slide upside down without screws and the optic will not fall out the pocket. There’s no plate that’s going to offer that fit on both the slide itself AND the optic. At least not without the plate being custom made. |
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Posted: 7/2/2024 5:40:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Duffy]
[#3]
You're correct, this is the reason we go to great lengths to tell folks that the plates should not be treated as drop in parts, there's tolerances in the optics, plates and the slide's pocket, all three have to work together.
We're in control of but one of these components, all we can do is tighten our tolerances which does make things easier, but it's not a panacea, it goes a long way to mitigate what's above and underneath but can't cure all ills. |
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Posted: 7/2/2024 6:04:27 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By turtle2472: Is there a "conventional wisdom" out there for replacing the batteries in your optics? Recently I went out and grabbed by carry pistol and as I was checking it I discovered the optic was dead. Looking it up, I'm at about 2 years with the same battery. Thankfully I'm still good with irons and am co-witness with my setup, but I didn't allow myself time to replace the battery before heading out the door so I had little choice. Have only had the MPS for a couple months but I'm running an experiment on that one to see how long it goes until it dies. It's just on a backup pistol though. |
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Posted: 7/3/2024 10:54:07 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Advance: The ARFCOM way is "just change all of your batteries on your birthday". In 2024, that is easier said than done. I'm currently sitting on at least 20 firearms with battery powered optics and it is a RPITA. I'm done buying type I/II RMRs which require dismounting of the optic, dealing with striped screw heads, removing witness marks on optic body/screw heads, scraping off the hardened thread lock on the screw/screw hole threads, blowing out slide mounting holes with compressed air, cleaning/degreasing with acetone, changing the battery, reapplying thread locker, breaking out torque wrenches, waiting for 24 hours for the thread locker to set, rechecking torque, applying new witness marks and then taking affected firearm to range to re-zero. Doing that to 7-8 pistols and 3-4 rifles once a year takes way more than a day and to be frank... It absolutely sucks. Top mount/side mount batteries for the win! Until the side mount battery tray goes flying out because the screw worked loose. I had it happen. Never had to rezero an RMR when I changed batteries. Just my experience. |
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Posted: 7/4/2024 12:35:50 AM EDT
[#6]
  
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Posted: 7/4/2024 12:42:09 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Henny: Until the side mount battery tray goes flying out because the screw worked loose. I had it happen. Never had to rezero an RMR when I changed batteries. Just my experience. I've seen just about everything when it comes to red dots on pistols, including that. As far as never having to re-zero the RMR, you still have to put rounds on paper to know for sure that you "never had to re-zero". I'd rather pop the cap on one of my SROs, RMR-HDs or slide the battery compartment out from the side on a Holosun vs. the extra 20 steps I find necessary for the RMRs. IMHO, this is peak open emitter.  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/4/2024 6:03:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Henny]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Advance: I've seen just about everything when it comes to red dots on pistols, including that. As far as never having to re-zero the RMR, you still have to put rounds on paper to know for sure that you "never had to re-zero". I'd rather pop the cap on one of my SROs, RMR-HDs or slide the battery compartment out from the side on a Holosun vs. the extra 20 steps I find necessary for the RMRs. IMHO, this is peak open emitter. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/309598/PXL_20240623_214025318_jpg-3257697.JPG Sure, I’d put some rounds down range, but I shoot weekly, so it’s no big deal. Never had to adjust. Maybe I’m lucky? ETA: Nice pistol! |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 7/7/2024 3:11:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Zakk_Wylde_470]
[#9]
Finally comfortable promoting her to nightstand duty
  147gr HSTs on tap 
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Posted: 7/7/2024 6:09:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MNRidesHonda]
[#10]
 
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LA, USA
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Posted: 7/13/2024 1:39:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TactiCoolBro]
[#11]
Pretty happy with the CK plate. Optic won't come off of plate with no screws installed. Plate fit to slide is great. Tiniest bit of play side to side, but absolutely nothing front to back, which is most important. End of the day my choice would be direct mill over absolutely any plate system, but...when the model isn't offered without the dumb optic ready system, compromises have to get made I guess...
 
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AL, USA
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Posted: 7/13/2024 10:45:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Exetik]
[#12]
Finally got a chance to shoot a couple of my guns today with red dots (first time shooting a pistol red dot). Gotta say I am now sold on a pistol dot. I prefer the 6 MOA dot on the Holosun 407k over the circle and 2 MOA dot (like an Eotech reticle) of the 507. Going to be replacing the 507C with a different dot for sure.
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NC, USA
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Posted: 7/14/2024 1:25:13 PM EDT
[#13]
Those who do not have a rear iron, do you use a reference on the dot or?
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Posted: 7/14/2024 6:44:12 PM EDT
[#14]
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Posted: 7/14/2024 10:31:53 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote History@MNRidesHonda First, awesome pistols. Seconds, awesome photography. What did you use to shoot it and what filters are they? |
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Posted: 7/14/2024 11:35:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierradyne: @MNRidesHonda First, awesome pistols. Seconds, awesome photography. What did you use to shoot it and what filters are they? Thank you Sir  For those I just used an iPotato 14 Pro Max shooting in RAW then washed them through Photoshop Express and VSCO. |
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Posted: 7/18/2024 8:40:25 PM EDT
[#17]
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Posted: 7/30/2024 7:38:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fordtough25: Finally got my RMR here and mounted!! Can't way to try it  https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269204/IMG_0187_jpeg-3270590.JPG how was it? |
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Posted: 7/30/2024 7:39:24 PM EDT
[#19]
Replaced batteries in 3 RMRs.
Torqued to same witness mark Confirmed Zero at 15Y No adjustments needed  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/30/2024 8:06:31 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fooboy: Depends on the optic. with RMR I do it every fall. It could probably go 2 years. For science (definitely not laziness) I left a battery in a range gun with an RMR to see how long it lasted. 3 years, 10 months. Mostly stored in my safe, so the auto brightness likely dropped it to a fairly low brightness setting. |
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Posted: 7/30/2024 8:47:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Fordtough25]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fooboy: @Fordtough25 how was it? Not going to lie, it’s going to take a lot of practice to get anywhere. It’s well made and fits nicely, I did loctite and witness mark it and slap a Glock performance trigger in the host pistol.   Attached File |
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Posted: 7/31/2024 12:53:45 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fordtough25: Not going to lie, it’s going to take a lot of practice to get anywhere. It’s well made and fits nicely, I did loctite and witness mark it and slap a Glock performance trigger in the host pistol. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269204/IMG_0250_jpeg-3281263.JPG You might want to add an identifier to one of the screws to denote its dedicated position when you remove and reinstall into the same hole.  Attached File |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 7/31/2024 1:09:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TactiCoolBro]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierradyne: You might want to add an identifier to one of the screws to denote its dedicated position when you remove and reinstall into the same hole. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/567584/1000011703_jpg-3281663.JPG You really should just be using new screws every time. These are pretty low torque screws, so while it’s minor, stretching does still occur. And well 6-32 screws are way too cheap to not just replace every time. |
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Posted: 7/31/2024 1:46:55 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: You really should just be using new screws every time. These are pretty low torque screws, so while it’s minor, stretching does still occur. And well 6-32 screws are way too cheap to not just replace every time. I should order extra screws from ZEV, you’re right. I do like the identifier marks on them though good call! |
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Posted: 7/31/2024 7:30:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11boomboom]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fordtough25: I should order extra screws from ZEV, you’re right. I do like the identifier marks on them though good call! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fordtough25: Originally Posted By TactiCoolBro: You really should just be using new screws every time. These are pretty low torque screws, so while it’s minor, stretching does still occur. And well 6-32 screws are way too cheap to not just replace every time. I should order extra screws from ZEV, you’re right. I do like the identifier marks on them though good call! ETA: wrong post |
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Posted: 8/1/2024 2:18:45 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: You really should just be using new screws every time. These are pretty low torque screws, so while it’s minor, stretching does still occur. And well 6-32 screws are way too cheap to not just replace every time. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: Originally Posted By Sierradyne: You might want to add an identifier to one of the screws to denote its dedicated position when you remove and reinstall into the same hole. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/567584/1000011703_jpg-3281663.JPG You really should just be using new screws every time. These are pretty low torque screws, so while it’s minor, stretching does still occur. And well 6-32 screws are way too cheap to not just replace every time. These are reusable screws. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 8/1/2024 4:24:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TactiCoolBro]
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierradyne: These are reusable screws. Sure they are. All screws are. Until they aren’t. Might want to research the subject before you think you can just infinitely re use fasteners. |
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Posted: 8/1/2024 5:59:45 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: Sure they are. All screws are. Until they aren’t. Might want to research the subject before you think you can just infinitely re use fasteners. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: Originally Posted By Sierradyne: These are reusable screws. Sure they are. All screws are. Until they aren’t. Might want to research the subject before you think you can just infinitely re use fasteners. Using screws as designed and not over torquing them will aid in their longevity. It also helps if you have recoil bosses so that the screws do not take the blunt force of the recoil. I work with bolts and screws daily and properly torquing them. Moral of the story is if you buy higher quality screws and don't over torque them then they won't break during normal use. |
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Posted: 8/1/2024 6:22:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Sonoran_Tj]
[#29]
Where do yall buy screws?
I stripped the screws that came with my impact machine optic mount with less than 15 in-lbs of torque. I put some screws that came with my RMR on, but I had to shorten them by about 1/8". Pic thread:  Attached File |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 8/1/2024 6:34:33 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierradyne: Using screws as designed and not over torquing them will aid in their longevity. It also helps if you have recoil bosses so that the screws do not take the blunt force of the recoil. I work with bolts and screws daily and properly torquing them. Moral of the story is if you buy higher quality screws and don't over torque them then they won't break during normal use. The very act of torquing a bolt - even to spec - WILL stretch it. Even if it’s amounts you can’t read on a micrometer, it’s happening. Period. You can buy boxes of these screws for on McMaster for dirt cheap. Why be cheap and re use them? |
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Posted: 8/1/2024 6:50:05 PM EDT
[#31]
The screw material matters, the ones we use are rated for 140,000 PSI shear strength. Screws made wtih mild steel will strip easily.
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Posted: 8/1/2024 7:08:43 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sonoran_Tj: Where do yall buy screws? I stripped the screws that came with my impact machine optic mount with less than 15 in-lbs of torque. I put some screws that came with my RMR on, but I had to shorten them by about 1/8". Pic thread: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/276110/20240731_171654_jpg-3282847.JPG Mine came from Forward Control Designs. Came with my optic plates and got extras just in case. |
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Posted: 8/1/2024 7:17:19 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: The very act of torquing a bolt - even to spec - WILL stretch it. Even if it’s amounts you can’t read on a micrometer, it’s happening. Period. You can buy boxes of these screws for on McMaster for dirt cheap. Why be cheap and re use them? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: Originally Posted By Sierradyne: Using screws as designed and not over torquing them will aid in their longevity. It also helps if you have recoil bosses so that the screws do not take the blunt force of the recoil. I work with bolts and screws daily and properly torquing them. Moral of the story is if you buy higher quality screws and don't over torque them then they won't break during normal use. The very act of torquing a bolt - even to spec - WILL stretch it. Even if it’s amounts you can’t read on a micrometer, it’s happening. Period. You can buy boxes of these screws for on McMaster for dirt cheap. Why be cheap and re use them? And as long as you don't exceed the fasteners yield there will be no problem. Simple research would tell you this or working in a field in which you deal with torquing fasteners to spec daily you would know this. Being cheap would be buying cheap fasteners. Don't buy cheap/low quality fasteners, torque them to proper spec. |
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Posted: 8/1/2024 7:22:52 PM EDT
[#34]
Since 2023, we started to include 4 RMR sight to plate screws. Many agencies treat sight to plate RMR screws as consumables, probably an old habit from the days when they used Glock OEM screws.
For agency orders, we automatically include extra screws, and we decided to do likewise for retail and wholesale plates as well. The screws we use are 6-32x3/8 T15, made in USA, 140,000 PSI. Both the shear strength and the large Torque drive help reduce the likelihood of stripping, and they're COTS. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 8/1/2024 9:31:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TactiCoolBro]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierradyne: And as long as you don't exceed the fasteners yield there will be no problem. Simple research would tell you this or working in a field in which you deal with torquing fasteners to spec daily you would know this. Being cheap would be buying cheap fasteners. Don't buy cheap/low quality fasteners, torque them to proper spec. Lmao tell me you’re clueless without telling me you’re clueless. Ask a professional mechanic if they’ll ever put an engine back together with the fasteners they pulled out the engine originally. If you need more examples, let me know. The threads stretch. Period. I don’t care if they’re quality and if torqued to proper spec. All. Bolts. Stretch. I can figure out another way to say it if you need that. |
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Posted: 8/1/2024 11:13:56 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: Lmao tell me you’re clueless without telling me you’re clueless. Ask a professional mechanic if they’ll ever put an engine back together with the fasteners they pulled out the engine originally. If you need more examples, let me know. The threads stretch. Period. I don’t care if they’re quality and if torqued to proper spec. All. Bolts. Stretch. I can figure out another way to say it if you need that. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: Originally Posted By Sierradyne: And as long as you don't exceed the fasteners yield there will be no problem. Simple research would tell you this or working in a field in which you deal with torquing fasteners to spec daily you would know this. Being cheap would be buying cheap fasteners. Don't buy cheap/low quality fasteners, torque them to proper spec. Lmao tell me you’re clueless without telling me you’re clueless. Ask a professional mechanic if they’ll ever put an engine back together with the fasteners they pulled out the engine originally. If you need more examples, let me know. The threads stretch. Period. I don’t care if they’re quality and if torqued to proper spec. All. Bolts. Stretch. I can figure out another way to say it if you need that.  Guess who has assembled more engines than they can remember? Hate to break it to you but do you know how many manufactures tell you to reuse the head bolts and other fasteners? There is a measurement you do of the bolt to see if it has stretched and thus rarely needs replacement unless some rookie decided to over torque the bolts. BTW, that is being a master certified too to boot. Have anymore questions about reusing bolts? Either Duffy (which he has posted some nice educational information for you to go back and read) or I can give you more facts if you would like? |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2024 6:46:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TactiCoolBro]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierradyne: Guess who has assembled more engines than they can remember? Hate to break it to you but do you know how many manufactures tell you to reuse the head bolts and other fasteners? There is a measurement you do of the bolt to see if it has stretched and thus rarely needs replacement unless some rookie decided to over torque the bolts. BTW, that is being a master certified too to boot. Have anymore questions about reusing bolts? Either Duffy (which he has posted some nice educational information for you to go back and read) or I can give you more facts if you would like? Oh, you’re the guy who also works for nasa when people talk about rocket ships. Riiight. Please let us know what method you’re using to measure thread stretch, not bolt overall length stretch. Neither you nor Duffy has posted a thing that disproves that you should not re use fasteners. You keep going on about over torquing like that’s all that matters. It’s not. Torquing to correct spec is still stretching threads. But I’m sure as an alleged master certified mechanic you’d know that. NO ONE I know who assembles engines seriously (not a shade tree mechanic) would re use fasteners to put an engine back together. It’s not worth saving a few dollars on. There’s a reason they’re treated as one time use. It doesn’t take as much as you seem to think it does for threads to start measuring bad when checked over wires with an OD mic after even a single use on a high torque thread. Sure, something like 6-32 can probably be used a few times…but you’re going to keep count instead of just tossing a 15 cent screw and using a new one? |
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Posted: 8/2/2024 7:19:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Fooboy]
[#38]
I've been using the same screws and installing them to the same
witness mark at least once a year (battery change) on multiple Glocks since 2019 (5+ years). The screws (battlewerx) have never loosened or broken. it's fine bro. |
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Posted: 8/2/2024 8:08:39 AM EDT
[#39]
(listen California valley girl accent) "Like, oh my god guys"
How about we all concede that metal will stretch every time it is tightened, even if only a little. It is our funeral if we reuse screws. It is our funeral if we buy new screws. Anecdotally, screws have been being reused since the dawn of pistol mounted optics and yet most manage to stay attached to the pistol. Those with new screws every time have that extra little confidence that they screws should last longer than the sap next to him at the range reusing their screws. Great, move on. |
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Posted: 8/2/2024 8:12:42 AM EDT
[#40]
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Posted: 8/2/2024 8:58:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Duffy]
[#41]
We've seen evidence that would seem to support the feasibility of reusing the RMR sight to plate screws, as well as incidents that indicate otherwise, there are variables so I recognize these aren't apples to apples, straight forward, direct comparisons, definitive conclusions would be hard to come by.
Variables: The screws plate manufactures supply can and do vary in hardness and drive size. Mild steel screws fare poorly against 18-8 stainless steel screws of the same tensile strength, alloy steel screws are more than 2x the tensile strength. We've standardized our Glock RMR sight to plate screws with specs the supplier must follow, this removes the screws as a potential variable. The amount of torque applied, we can never be sure if the users have used a torque wrench and if so, we don't know if their torque wrench is calibrated. If hand tightened, all bets are off. User's skill in installing and torquing the screws. This seems and is a simple thing, everyone knows how to turn a screwdriver but not everyone does so properly. Plate design. Whereas with our plates, the sight to plate screws usually (not always possible with all the sights, but certainly with RMR, RMR HD, SRO, DPP, etc.) don't handle the recoil since the plates are able to hold the sights tight, no recoil is transferred to the screws, if a plate is unable to hold the sight immobile in recoil, the sight will beat up the screws and eventually loosens them. With Glock OEM plates, it's advisable to always replace the sight to plate screws as they'd usually become unreliable by the time a battery change is necessary. Our opinion is what many agencies do, which is to replace sight to plate screws when the armorers replace the battery, is cheap insurance, better safe than sorry prudence. 6-32x3/8 T15 alloy screws are COTS on McMaster, we often just supply the part number to the agencies instead of them buying them from us, some prefer to buy from us for administrative reasons, but because of the standardization, they'd be the same specs regardless. |
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Posted: 8/2/2024 9:00:47 AM EDT
[#42]
If you want to change your screws, change them. If you don't, then don't.
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Posted: 8/2/2024 9:33:40 AM EDT
[#43]
Just ordered an RMR06 and Acro P-2 for the Alchemy Custom Weaponry Quantico HiCap Carry and Gunfighter X2 Hellcat Government (respectively) that I have on order.
I was issued a G45 with Acro P-2 last summer and I have become a disciple of the one true church of pistol RDOs. My old eyes like them. Sounds like I'll be buying extra screws. A lot of good info in this thread. |
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Posted: 8/2/2024 2:02:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HAGDADDY]
[#44]
Trying out the Gideon Omega on my Echelon. Pretty happy with it so far. The Vortex Defender CCW is a good fit for my METE Pro SFT. Allows me to co-witness. It does have the slower refresh rate. But I only notice it when I'm specifically looking for it. Never see it when I'm shooting.
 Attached File |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2024 2:09:51 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Duffy: We've seen evidence that would seem to support the feasibility of reusing the RMR sight to plate screws, as well as incidents that indicate otherwise, there are variables so I recognize these aren't apples to apples, straight forward, direct comparisons, definitive conclusions would be hard to come by. Variables: The screws plate manufactures supply can and do vary in hardness and drive size. Mild steel screws fare poorly against 18-8 stainless steel screws of the same tensile strength, alloy steel screws are more than 2x the tensile strength. We've standardized our Glock RMR sight to plate screws with specs the supplier must follow, this removes the screws as a potential variable. The amount of torque applied, we can never be sure if the users have used a torque wrench and if so, we don't know if their torque wrench is calibrated. If hand tightened, all bets are off. User's skill in installing and torquing the screws. This seems and is a simple thing, everyone knows how to turn a screwdriver but not everyone does so properly. Plate design. Whereas with our plates, the sight to plate screws usually (not always possible with all the sights, but certainly with RMR, RMR HD, SRO, DPP, etc.) don't handle the recoil since the plates are able to hold the sights tight, no recoil is transferred to the screws, if a plate is unable to hold the sight immobile in recoil, the sight will beat up the screws and eventually loosens them. With Glock OEM plates, it's advisable to always replace the sight to plate screws as they'd usually become unreliable by the time a battery change is necessary. Our opinion is what many agencies do, which is to replace sight to plate screws when the armorers replace the battery, is cheap insurance, better safe than sorry prudence. 6-32x3/8 T15 alloy screws are COTS on McMaster, we often just supply the part number to the agencies instead of them buying them from us, some prefer to buy from us for administrative reasons, but because of the standardization, they'd be the same specs regardless. Like you said. They’re ALREADY off anyway. Why risk an issue over a couple 15 cent screws? I don’t understand the mind set of re using something that’s questionable at best when to do it right costs so little. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2024 5:11:17 PM EDT
[#46]
Looking forward to working with this
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Posted: 8/2/2024 6:02:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Sierradyne]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TactiCoolBro: Oh, you’re the guy who also works for nasa when people talk about rocket ships. Riiight. Please let us know what method you’re using to measure thread stretch, not bolt overall length stretch. Neither you nor Duffy has posted a thing that disproves that you should not re use fasteners. You keep going on about over torquing like that’s all that matters. It’s not. Torquing to correct spec is still stretching threads. But I’m sure as an alleged master certified mechanic you’d know that. NO ONE I know who assembles engines seriously (not a shade tree mechanic) would re use fasteners to put an engine back together. It’s not worth saving a few dollars on. There’s a reason they’re treated as one time use. It doesn’t take as much as you seem to think it does for threads to start measuring bad when checked over wires with an OD mic after even a single use on a high torque thread. Sure, something like 6-32 can probably be used a few times…but you’re going to keep count instead of just tossing a 15 cent screw and using a new one? What are you talking about with NASA?? You understand this is tech on not GD, right? Wierd, the screws I buy are not 15 cents. Maybe that is the problem you are running into with screws failing. Try some screws from FCD instead the bottom of the barrel screws. Since you want to go on the train of thought about automotive hardware, you never heard of ARP fasteners? Also here is a spec of checking bolts for being out of spec, after this I am not going to argue with you as many manufactures are resting head bolts as they are not torque to yield. There is a whole thing about clamping force with fasteners but instead of listening, you would rather argue and act like a know it all and you don't even work in the field.  Attached FileHave a nice day, keep your GD antics in GD and out of tech. Adding that you need to research stretch and rebound of fasteners and not going past the yield. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2024 6:16:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TactiCoolBro]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sierradyne: What are you talking about with NASA?? You understand this is tech on not GD, right? Wierd, the screws I buy are not 15 cents. Maybe that is the problem you are running into with screws failing. Try some screws from FCD instead the bottom of the barrel screws. Since you want to go on the train of thought about automotive hardware, you never heard of ARP fasteners? Also here is a spec of checking bolts for being out of spec, after this I am not going to argue with you as many manufactures are resting head bolts as they are not torque to yield. There is a whole thing about clamping force with fasteners but instead of listening, you would rather argue and act like a know it all and you don't even work in the field. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/567584/1000011852_jpg-3283844.JPG Have a nice day, keep your GD antics in GD and out of tech. Weird because their post literally says they get them from McMaster where you can buy them in bulk for almost nothing lmao. (He literally listed the exact screw they buy. Stop being a damn clown. Maybe you’re the one who belongs in GD.) https://www.mcmaster.com/product/94414A146 Sorry my 15 cents I threw off the top of my head was so far off. My crappy math off the top of my head puts them at a WHOPPING ~25 cents(ish). Also I’m glad you assume I don’t work “in the field”. I guarantee you I know significantly more about the subject than you do. (The photo you posted does not show how you’d measure thread deformation, but if it makes you feel better, ok I guess.) We’re all grateful you won’t be commenting on the subject any longer. |
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Posted: 8/2/2024 6:40:30 PM EDT
[#49]
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Posted: 8/2/2024 7:07:05 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Zakk_Wylde_470: Looking forward to working with this https://i.imgur.com/NoZKZNT.jpg Whoa, battlefield green Gen 5? |
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