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Posted: 5/13/2024 8:47:01 AM EST
I have a couple rows of dwarf golden delicious apple tress, they are 7 years old this spring. Never any issues with them, always healthy and produced a ton the last couple years.
They all look fantastic except this one. It was fine a couple weeks ago. Bloomed, tons of flowers and buds. Was checking the trees on thursday and all looked good. Neighbor sprayed his corn field friday. Yesterday I noticed wilted leaves and when I pulled in this am, half the tree is brown and the leaves are still wilted and easy to pull off. All other trees are fine, no wilting or browning. Nice, full green leaves with lots of fruit starting to grow. If its a fungus, ill spray all my tress to get on top of it. If its a herbicide, this tress pretty much toast isn't it? Thanks for the help   
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Posted: 5/13/2024 9:01:24 AM EST
[#1]
Any chance the field next to it was sprayed with roundup?
I’d prune off the low limbs with leaf damage and watch the top that’s still green. You may take a small limb to a nursery and get a better opinion. I had a walnut tree that looked like that trimmed it and the tree is still alive two years later. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 9:05:30 AM EST
[#2]
Your local Ag/Extension Office should be able to tell the difference between herbicide and fungus.
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Posted: 5/13/2024 9:08:21 AM EST
[#3]
Almost looks like root damage. How long ago did you drive those T-posts? Any of them give you a particularly hard time?
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Posted: 5/13/2024 9:26:52 AM EST
[#4]
I wasn't sure if it would of been herbicide because the grass looks fine.
Two t posts have been with each tree since I planted them. I had deer fencing secured to the posts and had mulch around the trees until last fall when I took down the fencing and cleared away the mulch. When the derecho came though in 2020, I had four trees on the north side bend and half uproot. This tree was one of them. I tipped them back up, added some fertilizer and packed a bunch of dirt around the bases of them. I added two more t posts at that time and some straps to keep them stable and secure. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 9:37:35 AM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Your local Ag/Extension Office should be able to tell the difference between herbicide and fungus. Great idea I gave my local one a call, they gave me their "master gardners" number. I left a detailed message and I'll see what they say. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 11:42:31 AM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Great idea I gave my local one a call, they gave me their "master gardners" number. I left a detailed message and I'll see what they say. Cool! Both my mother and my daughter are Florida Master Gardeners. My 89 yo mom takes the calls at the local extension office 2-3 days a week. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 12:00:22 PM EST
[#7]
Your neighbor may have sprayed a broad leaf weed killer. A chemical company hit a young live oak I have with 2-4,d while spraying my field. It lost all of it's leaves, but they came back. No clue how your tree will respond.
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Posted: 5/13/2024 12:20:44 PM EST
[#8]
that's not from the cornfield being sprayed. the lowest visible part of the trunk looks wet. those gator bag gimmicks caused disease and wet rot. restricting air flow and trapping moisture about the trunk is not a good idea.
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Posted: 5/13/2024 1:15:03 PM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: that's not from the cornfield being sprayed. the lowest visible part of the trunk looks wet. those gator bag gimmicks caused disease and wet rot. restricting air flow and trapping moisture about the trunk is not a good idea. Its was raining when I took those photos. Everything was wet. I put those bags on every fruit tree starting May 1st and I take them off the end of September and store them for the winter and haven't had any issues before. I haven't had to use them yet though because we have received plenty of rain. Could only using them for a couple months a year still cause those issues? |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 4:34:01 PM EST
[#10]
Quoted: I have a couple rows of dwarf golden delicious apple tress, they are 7 years old this spring. Never any issues with them, always healthy and produced a ton the last couple years. They all look fantastic except this one. It was fine a couple weeks ago. Bloomed, tons of flowers and buds. Was checking the trees on thursday and all looked good. Neighbor sprayed his corn field friday. Yesterday I noticed wilted leaves and when I pulled in this am, half the tree is brown and the leaves are still wilted and easy to pull off. All other trees are fine, no wilting or browning. Nice, full green leaves with lots of fruit starting to grow. If its a fungus, ill spray all my tress to get on top of it. If its a herbicide, this tress pretty much toast isn't it? Thanks for the help https://i.postimg.cc/8kyJfW7r/20240513-080807.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/sDqMwr9j/20240513-080813.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wBd7YQGn/20240513-080820.jpg OP, why is that thing wrapped around the bottom of the tree? Is the damage on one side of the tree? Or all the way around the bottom limbs? Ain't sayin' it's absolutely not herbicide damage. I just need to see a whole photo. Okay I just saw the post above, but still don't understand why you are putting those on your trees for the summer? It's not "a couple of months." It's five months per year based on what you said. Trees need airflow. The bark needs air flow. What is the purpose of that thing? |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:20:33 PM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OP, why is that thing wrapped around the bottom of the tree? Is the damage on one side of the tree? Or all the way around the bottom limbs? Ain't sayin' it's absolutely not herbicide damage. I just need to see a whole photo. Okay I just saw the post above, but still don't understand why you are putting those on your trees for the summer? It's not "a couple of months." It's five months per year based on what you said. Trees need airflow. The bark needs air flow. What is the purpose of that thing? The green bag? It provides the tree water over a 30 minute period instead of just dosing it with a bunch of water at once. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:28:54 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The green bag? It provides the tree water over a 30 minute period instead of just dosing it with a bunch of water at once. Ohhhh.. Yeah I would not use those. Anything you wrap around the trunk is going to cause rot and other fungal infections. Fruit trees are prone to those anyway. That bark needs air. If you feel the need to water slowly, there are other ways to do that without compromising the health of the tree. As I mentioned, is the damage all on ONE SIDE of the tree or is it all around the bottom limbs? It looks more like a fungal infection or virus than herbicide damage, but seeing exactly where it is on the tree--which limbs are affected, would help to ID it. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:35:44 PM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The green bag? It provides the tree water over a 30 minute period instead of just dosing it with a bunch of water at once. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: OP, why is that thing wrapped around the bottom of the tree? Is the damage on one side of the tree? Or all the way around the bottom limbs? Ain't sayin' it's absolutely not herbicide damage. I just need to see a whole photo. Okay I just saw the post above, but still don't understand why you are putting those on your trees for the summer? It's not "a couple of months." It's five months per year based on what you said. Trees need airflow. The bark needs air flow. What is the purpose of that thing? The green bag? It provides the tree water over a 30 minute period instead of just dosing it with a bunch of water at once. think he is asking about the corrugate tree guard.... have those been on since you bought the trees? they look tight. those are creating a dark and moist environment that can create damage and cause the bark to become diseased 5 months is plenty of time for mold and fungus, and various critters and insects to inhabit that space, and cause damage |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:41:34 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: think he is asking about the corrugate tree guard.... have those been on since you bought the trees? they look tight. those are creating a dark and moist environment that can create damage and cause the bark to become diseased 5 months is plenty of time for mold and fungus, and various critters and insects to inhabit that space, and cause damage It looks like the green thing is wrapped around the trunk. Maybe I'm looking wrong. Nothing should be wrapped around the trunk after the first few months, especially not right up against it. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:43:17 PM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ohhhh.. Yeah I would not use those. Anything you wrap around the trunk is going to cause rot and other fungal infections. Fruit trees are prone to those anyway. That bark needs air. If you feel the need to water slowly, there are other ways to do that without compromising the health of the tree. As I mentioned, is the damage all on ONE SIDE of the tree or is it all around the bottom limbs? It looks more like a fungal infection or virus than herbicide damage, but seeing exactly where it is on the tree--which limbs are affected, would help to ID it. The couple months statement was that I fill the bags with water regularly every couple months. Like two times a week during mid/late June through late July. The rest of that time they are filled once a week or every other week if they need it. What are your suggestions on how to water them? During summer months it gets 80s/90s with no rain for extended periods of time regularly. I have to trailer a 100 gallon water tank out there to water them and fill the bags. The first couple years we had fruit, they all dried up and fell off and more than one nursery recommended the above bags The brown and dieing leave are on the one side closest to the corn field. The other side leaves are green but look wilted. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:44:59 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: think he is asking about the corrugate tree guard.... have those been on since you bought the trees? they look tight. those are creating a dark and moist environment that can create damage and cause the bark to become diseased 5 months is plenty of time for mold and fungus, and various critters and insects to inhabit that space, and cause damage They have been on the entire time. They are slit on one side to expand. Should I take them off asap? I left them on for protection against rabbits but if they are causing more harm than good, ill get rid of them. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:47:21 PM EST
[#17]
Cut off a damaged limb and take a photo of the inside of it..
I mean take a photo of the cross-section. So we can see the color of the cambium layer. As far as watering, I drill holes in five-gallon buckets if I need to slow water. If other people are using these in your area successfully, and you didn't just take the advice of the nursery that sold them to you, then maybe they work. But between that white stuff and the green bags, it looks to me like the trunks never get air flow. That's disease waiting to happen. If you've got master gardeners coming out, who are familiar with fruit trees in your area, let's hear what they have to say. Those leaves look like disease to me, more than chem damage. But it could be. Really difficult to see the whole situation with a couple of pics on the internet. Being present is always better. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 5:55:45 PM EST
[#18]
I have honestly never seen any tree trunk bundled up like that with something tight around it, then a water bag around that.
So... 1-Basically for the entire growing season, the tree trunk gets zero air movement, as far as I can tell. Is that the case? 2-Also...Are the trees set a little bit high? Is that why there is a mound up around them? 3-Is that a hole beside the root ball on the left side of the main photo? Has something been digging around the tree? |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:00:46 PM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cut off a damaged limb and take a photo of the inside of it.. I mean take a photo of the cross-section. So we can see the color of the cambium layer. As far as watering, I drill holes in five-gallon buckets if I need to slow water. If other people are using these in your area successfully, and you didn't just take the advice of the nursery that sold them to you, then maybe they work. But between that white stuff and the green bags, it looks to me like the trunks never get air flow. That's disease waiting to happen. If you've got master gardeners coming out, who are familiar with fruit trees in your area, let's hear what they have to say. Those leaves look like disease to me, more than chem damage. But it could be. Really difficult to see the whole situation with a couple of pics on the internet. Being present is always better. I appreciate all the help from you guys. I'll be out here taking care of stuff for a little while longer, so if you need to see anymore pictures, just ask.   Side thats not brown. 
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:05:38 PM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have honestly never seen any tree trunk bundled up like that with something tight around it, then a water bag around that. So... 1-Basically for the entire growing season, the tree trunk gets zero air movement, as far as I can tell. Is that the case? 2-Also...Are the trees set a little bit high? Is that why there is a mound up around them? 3-Is that a hole beside the root ball on the left side of the main photo? Has something been digging around the tree? This is how the water bags are around the tree. They aren't up against the bark, but they are around the trunk.. The white protection is though and ill remove those asap if you guys think I should.   2. The trees were level with the ground, but after the derecho i packed extra dirt around the trees to secure them. So, there is a little mount around those 4 trees. 3. I just checked, here's no hole. It was from me getting over zealous weed eating the other day. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:14:34 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is how the water bags are around the tree. They aren't up against the bark, but they are around the trunk.. The white protection is though and ill remove those asap if you guys think I should. https://i.postimg.cc/sDPFYyVh/20240513-175230.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ZqMXb5L1/20240513-175226.jpg 2. The trees were level with the ground, but after the derecho i packed extra dirt around the trees to secure them. So, there is a little mount around those 4 trees. 3. I just checked, here's no hole. It was from me getting over zealous weed eating the other day. Yes, take the white stuff off that one tree at least. Let's see what the bark looks like. Mounding more dirt on top of existing roots is never a good idea. The roots need air. If you put extra dirt on, they are suddenly starved for it. ALSO....piling anything against the trunk is not a great idea either. HOWEVER, that pile of dirt alone is not causing the damage we are looking at. It may have weakened your trees, but the whole tree would likely be wilted if that were the real issue. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:18:44 PM EST
[#22]
I don't see anything immediately wrong in that stem.
I'm starting to lean more toward herbicide as I see more photos, but let's see the bark under that white stuff. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:26:47 PM EST
[#23]
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:38:54 PM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryAny obvious damage that you can see? Is the bark intact and just wet and dirty? |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:44:35 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any obvious damage that you can see? Is the bark intact and just wet and dirty? No damage, just wet. Lots of ants |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:48:46 PM EST
[#26]
Quote Historynot looking good to me rigid mesh guards are better if you have to protect from critters; they allow air movement and don't trap the moisture established trees only need rain or watering once ever 7-10 days; consider engineering a barrel gravity drip irrigation if you are serious about having apple trees |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:51:59 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No damage, just wet. Lots of ants Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Any obvious damage that you can see? Is the bark intact and just wet and dirty? No damage, just wet. Lots of ants or dampwood termites maybe I am looking the wrong photo, but the bark on that trunk looks severely compromised when the photo is fully expanded on my 2k monitor screen also, I can think herbicide damage showing up in just 1 limb of 1 tree to be highly unlikely |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 1:47:32 PM EST
[#28]
Looks like possible fire blight damage to me. A “shepards crook” at the end of the limb is a sign of fire blight. Interested to see what it turns out to be
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Posted: 5/14/2024 4:04:30 PM EST
[#29]
I spoke with the Gardner yesterday. Sent her the pictures she requested. She sent me a message this am that she was still looking into it.
Neighbor got back to me as well and said it was a 2,4 D that was sprayed. I took off the water bags and white protectors lastnight. I'll just put the bags on when I need to water them and then take them off when I don't use them. What do you guys recommend to keep rabbits and other undesirables from chewing on the trunks? I'll keep you all updated. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 4:08:45 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I spoke with the Gardner yesterday. Sent her the pictures she requested. She sent me a message this am that she was still looking into it. Neighbor got back to me as well and said it was a 2,4 D that was sprayed. I took off the water bags and white protectors lastnight. I'll just put the bags on when I need to water them and then take them off when I don't use them. What do you guys recommend to keep rabbits and other undesirables from chewing on the trunks? I'll keep you all updated. We use little cages made of hardware cloth. They can help keep surrounding mulch from piling up against the tree too. I'm still voting for root damage, possibly brought on by the tree being blown over and re-set. Will be interesting to see what the real diagnosis turns out to be. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 4:59:23 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: or dampwood termites maybe I am looking the wrong photo, but the bark on that trunk looks severely compromised when the photo is fully expanded on my 2k monitor screen also, I can think herbicide damage showing up in just 1 limb of 1 tree to be highly unlikely I agree that the bark does look compromised. Will be interested to see it as it dries out. I feel like there is root rot/fungal damage of some kind. 2, 4-D has a very particular look to the damage usually. That is not the look, and now that we know it was 2,4-D, I'm even less convinced that is chemical damage. However, there are always exceptions to every rule. I'm deeply worried about that tree at this point. Perhaps OP's changes will help.. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:17:11 PM EST
[#32]
Fire blight eoild be my first guess if it's not herbicide. Is all the damage on the field side?
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:51:23 PM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I agree that the bark does look compromised. Will be interested to see it as it dries out. I feel like there is root rot/fungal damage of some kind. 2, 4-D has a very particular look to the damage usually. That is not the look, and now that we know it was 2,4-D, I'm even less convinced that is chemical damage. However, there are always exceptions to every rule. I'm deeply worried about that tree at this point. Perhaps OP's changes will help.. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: or dampwood termites maybe I am looking the wrong photo, but the bark on that trunk looks severely compromised when the photo is fully expanded on my 2k monitor screen also, I can think herbicide damage showing up in just 1 limb of 1 tree to be highly unlikely I agree that the bark does look compromised. Will be interested to see it as it dries out. I feel like there is root rot/fungal damage of some kind. 2, 4-D has a very particular look to the damage usually. That is not the look, and now that we know it was 2,4-D, I'm even less convinced that is chemical damage. However, there are always exceptions to every rule. I'm deeply worried about that tree at this point. Perhaps OP's changes will help.. I am currently at the OP maybe being mistaken regarding what he identified as "lots of ants". I think the photo suggests termite (subterranean) damage to the bark, with larvae and maybe nymphs visible in that photo. I was hoping he would confirm they are definitely ants and not termites. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 9:17:59 PM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I am currently at the OP maybe being mistaken regarding what he identified as "lots of ants". I think the photo suggests termite (subterranean) damage to the bark, with larvae and maybe nymphs visible in that photo. I was hoping he would confirm they are definitely ants and not termites. I was gone by then and didn't verify. They looked like those small black ants that invade your plate during a picnic. Nothing there tonight. I ran my hand up and down the bark tonight, didn't feel any rotten or soft wood. I'll wash it and rub it down tomorrow and post some clearer photos. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 9:47:48 PM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was gone by then and didn't verify. They looked like those small black ants that invade your plate during a picnic. Nothing there tonight. I ran my hand up and down the bark tonight, didn't feel any rotten or soft wood. I'll wash it and rub it down tomorrow and post some clearer photos. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I am currently at the OP maybe being mistaken regarding what he identified as "lots of ants". I think the photo suggests termite (subterranean) damage to the bark, with larvae and maybe nymphs visible in that photo. I was hoping he would confirm they are definitely ants and not termites. I was gone by then and didn't verify. They looked like those small black ants that invade your plate during a picnic. Nothing there tonight. I ran my hand up and down the bark tonight, didn't feel any rotten or soft wood. I'll wash it and rub it down tomorrow and post some clearer photos. termites in reproductive stage will look very similar to tiny black ants. the presence of all that mud on the bark suggests mud tubing from subterranean termites. to differentiate them from ants, the termites will have straight antennae, and a head with elongated abdomen. ants will have bent antennae and an a tight waist separating the thorax from the abdomen. if subterranean termites, they will have returned to the soil once you removed the corrugated protector that was holding the moist, warm environment. |
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Posted: 5/15/2024 12:33:32 PM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Fire blight eoild be my first guess if it's not herbicide. Is all the damage on the field side? It has the look of fire blight in earlier phases. I was hoping not, but my gut was fearing that. Markings on the leaves are a little off, and I'm not seeing a lot of the other symptoms of FB. ETA: Even if fire blight is present, I feel like there is something wrong either in the trunk or with the roots. That water-soaked look to the wilting leaves is giving me pause. If the tree got uprooted that stress would certainly open it up to disease that it didn't have before. OP, what has your weather been like? Did this appear after a warm, wet spell? (This may be a dumb question. The whole middle of the country has been beaten up by storms lately, but some diseases favor cool/wet and others warm/wet. |
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Posted: 5/15/2024 3:41:27 PM EST
[#37]
 
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Posted: 5/15/2024 5:51:30 PM EST
[#38]
Quote Historyhave to wonder what's left of the root ball |
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Posted: 5/15/2024 10:11:37 PM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Its was raining when I took those photos. Everything was wet. I put those bags on every fruit tree starting May 1st and I take them off the end of September and store them for the winter and haven't had any issues before. I haven't had to use them yet though because we have received plenty of rain. Could only using them for a couple months a year still cause those issues? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: that's not from the cornfield being sprayed. the lowest visible part of the trunk looks wet. those gator bag gimmicks caused disease and wet rot. restricting air flow and trapping moisture about the trunk is not a good idea. Its was raining when I took those photos. Everything was wet. I put those bags on every fruit tree starting May 1st and I take them off the end of September and store them for the winter and haven't had any issues before. I haven't had to use them yet though because we have received plenty of rain. Could only using them for a couple months a year still cause those issues? I had a peach tree die like that simply from some bentonite clay around the trunk as a weed suppressant. The other trees were fine. Perpetual moisture at the trunk of most tree species is not goood |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 11:08:43 AM EST
[#40]
She checked it out.
She said it was planted to deep. That the dirt gridles the tree and suffocates it. Sometimes it can kill a tree in one year or ten. Said I put to much dirt on top after the deracheo. She said I need to change the grade to match the root flare and then put 2 inches of mulch on top and just watch it. No termite damage or fungus issues. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 12:35:30 PM EST
[#41]
Dug out all four trees until the root flare was exposed. Learned a valuable lesson today. Didn't know when you planted trees that the root flare had to be exposed.
Hope it survives. I guess we will find out next spring. Thanks for the help gents. 
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Posted: 5/16/2024 5:58:21 PM EST
[#42]
My wife and I learned the hard way too. We didn't lose too many we wanted, but we learned the first time at least!
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Posted: 5/16/2024 9:51:16 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: She checked it out. She said it was planted to deep. That the dirt gridles the tree and suffocates it. Sometimes it can kill a tree in one year or ten. Said I put to much dirt on top after the deracheo. She said I need to change the grade to match the root flare and then put 2 inches of mulch on top and just watch it. No termite damage or fungus issues. Good. So our initial reaction that the pile of dirt around it was a problem, was correct. Really glad there are no fungal issues. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 9:59:40 PM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dug out all four trees until the root flare was exposed. Learned a valuable lesson today. Didn't know when you planted trees that the root flare had to be exposed. Hope it survives. I guess we will find out next spring. Thanks for the help gents. https://i.postimg.cc/0yKKySJq/20240516-122232.jpg Yes. Planting too deep is WAY worse than planting too shallow. The old Landscaping thread went to archive. But my first post there hammered on planting trees too deeply and piling mulch volcanos around them. All this said.... Don't keep the bark wet. Allow air circulation. ALSO @Mindfull Take a set of clean pruners (dip them in water with a little bleach 1:9 Bleach:water works--dip them between EVERY CUT) and take out ALL THAT DEAD STUFF back to the main trunk. Don't cut into the trunk. If you have any hesitation about how to prune, ask. I will dig up the old landscape thread, where there are some tutorials on pruning. BOTTOM LINE: IN CASE SHE IS WRONG ABOUT DISEASE GET THAT DEAD STUFF OFF OF THE TREE, AND PUT IT IN A GARBAGE BAG AND GET IT OUT OF THERE. PUT IT IN THE TRASH THAT GETS TAKEN AWAY. BURN IT. WHATEVER. DON'T LEAVE ANY LEAVES OR BRANCHES ON YOUR PROPERTY. 1-I think she has nailed the MAIN PROBLEM BUT...disease recognition is HARD. It's the hardest thing we have to do as gardeners. No shame to her if she went straight for the bigger problem, and did not focus beyond that, on whether there could be ADDITIONAL problems. I know she said no fungal disease but....I've got this niggle in my gut. So...treat it like a disease until you know it's not.  2-The stress the trees have been under because of not getting enough air to the trunk and roots....that makes them targets for bugs and diseases. This is one of the main reasons I want you to treat those dead branches as though they have a disease. Get it early. Instead of after it has spread. If there is no disease, you haven't lost anything.
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Posted: 5/16/2024 10:11:24 PM EST
[#45]
I've already trimmed the tree and burned the branches after I got the root flare exposed. I would definitely be interested in that landscape thread if you dig it up.
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Posted: 5/16/2024 10:49:37 PM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've already trimmed the tree and burned the branches after I got the root flare exposed. I would definitely be interested in that landscape thread if you dig it up. I will do so. If I forget, please do remind me. Bump me here or via IM, or in the lawn care thread. I lost a lot of memory after the shot, so I don't mean to forget, but I do.
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Posted: 5/17/2024 7:12:20 AM EST
[#47]
OP, the mistakes that you made are really common, and most of us have made them. If an aspiring tree planter follows the following guide, it will avoid most of the most common issues created by improper tree planting: linky
I don't have fruit trees, but know plenty of folks that do. Unfortunately, they can be kind of pain in the ass to get established and IMO require a little closer eye than many other species. That said, I wish I had time to dedicate to planting a small orchard. |
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Posted: 5/17/2024 7:27:23 AM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OP, the mistakes that you made are really common, and most of us have made them. If an aspiring tree planter follows the following guide, it will avoid most of the most common issues created by improper tree planting: linky I don't have fruit trees, but know plenty of folks that do. Unfortunately, they can be kind of pain in the ass to get established and IMO require a little closer eye than many other species. That said, I wish I had time to dedicate to planting a small orchard. Great link. Everything she told me was in it. |
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Posted: 5/17/2024 7:31:08 AM EST
[#49]
Deleted.
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Posted: 5/17/2024 7:39:45 AM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: She checked it out. She said it was planted to deep. That the dirt gridles the tree and suffocates it. Sometimes it can kill a tree in one year or ten. Said I put to much dirt on top after the deracheo. She said I need to change the grade to match the root flare and then put 2 inches of mulch on top and just watch it. No termite damage or fungus issues.  How did she explain all that damage half way up the trunk of the tree in this photo? Did you mention you encountered "lots of ants" when you removed protectors to her? |
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