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Posted: 12/24/2018 4:27:12 AM EST
I had a rubber duckie I bought years back to scavenge the front sight base and flash hider. I tossed the rest aside and just rediscovered it this week. I was looking at the upper receiver, and it is an early 603 made from a square forging, colt proofmarks, and no forge code. It appears that they stuck a piece of rebar though the upper and poured the plastic around it to keep everything together. I was able to separate the upper from the rest of it, and it seems it could be saved if the remaining plastic and piece of rebar could be removed. Anybody have any ideas to get this cap out? I could probably melt/burn the plastic out, but wouldn't that screw up the aluminum? I figure that with all the interest in retro's nowadays, this would be worth trying to save. Any ideas y'all?
I just finished the final assembly and she's now 100% done. Here she is with a Colt 20 round magazine and smelly old seat belt sling.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 4:35:45 AM EST
[#1]
Some chemical?
I use "MEK" as glue for plastic models. It melts the plastic slightly. Maybe something similar would work. |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 1:00:19 PM EST
[#2]
Is the plastic hard or soft?
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Posted: 12/24/2018 1:05:09 PM EST
[#3]
Probably just some kind of two part epoxy they used to stick in there. The problem is not just getting it out of there, but where else did that shit drip when they put it together. You might try a can of the old carb dip if you can find a place that still sells it, that stuff was good for cleaning aluminum carbs, but it is not common these days.
In the end, it is probably going to be way to much trouble to make it into anything that someone would buy. |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 1:23:04 PM EST
[#4]
Square forge 603 uppers have gotten scarce. I'd try to salvage it.
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Posted: 12/24/2018 1:33:05 PM EST
[#5]
We can rebuild him !
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Posted: 12/24/2018 1:33:45 PM EST
[#6]
Try just media blasting the epoxy
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Posted: 12/24/2018 1:36:49 PM EST
[#7]
How to remove epoxy
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Epoxy |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 2:11:51 PM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How to remove epoxy https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Epoxy |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 4:45:58 PM EST
[#9]
It is hard plastic/epoxy. Methyl ethyl ketone?
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Posted: 12/24/2018 4:49:50 PM EST
[#10]
You gotta save it, its good retro karma
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Posted: 12/24/2018 4:58:34 PM EST
[#11]
If it is epoxy, you can remove it a little at a time using the point of a soldering iron. The iron tip and heat overcures the epoxy to the point it can be dug out with a sharp pointed instrument such as a small tipped screwdriver or an ice pick...Bill
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Posted: 12/24/2018 6:33:34 PM EST
[#12]
Heat gun?
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Posted: 12/24/2018 10:01:43 PM EST
[#13]
I've got it sitting in carb cleaner now. It's really toxic stuff, I was drilling it away and the dust turned white and stung my nostrils. Ive no idea what this shit is.
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Posted: 12/24/2018 10:03:31 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've got it sitting in carb cleaner now. It's really toxic stuff, I was drilling it away and the dust turned white and stung my nostrils. Ive no idea what this shit is. |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 10:21:10 PM EST
[#15]
What's it do with a little bit of heat?
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Posted: 12/24/2018 10:32:21 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's it do with a little bit of heat? |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 10:40:05 PM EST
[#17]
I would stick it in the oven at 300-350 for an hour. I know that won't hurt the aluminum because we cure Norrells at those temps for an hour.
It will probably melt out or at least make is soft enough to pull out. |
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Posted: 12/24/2018 10:57:52 PM EST
[#18]
Be careful of using heat. Read up on isocyanate poisoning.
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Posted: 12/25/2018 11:29:22 AM EST
[#19]
I was able to salvage the upper, barrel, charging handle, and 20rnd mag in the Rubber Duckie I bought off eBay a few years back. It's a Colt, no forge code, non rebated front lug upper. It didn't have a forward assist or port door, but did come with a complete rear sight. The barrel is an SAK and only had a very small blob of weld near the chamber. A little Dremel time and it was good to go. A new gas tube, fwd assist, vintage A1 door and I went to the range. Luckily, mine was only full of the molding rubber and rebar, not epoxy. I spent about an hour at work with a heat gun and everything came right out. The lower half of the Duck was heavily damaged and the mag, which was removable anyway, barely hung in the broken well. It's really quite an accurate upper to shoot. I'll try to post pics soon.
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Posted: 12/25/2018 11:29:53 AM EST
[#20]
Soak it in MEK for a week.
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Posted: 12/25/2018 10:05:25 PM EST
[#21]
I wonder how many different versions of the ducks were made?
Seems like some get pretty detailed with many useable parts. The one I have isn't. Was hoping it would have had a cast FSB but it's a later barrel. |
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Posted: 12/26/2018 5:16:57 AM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wonder how many different versions of the ducks were |
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Posted: 12/26/2018 6:21:42 AM EST
[#23]
Throw it on an ant mound. Never mind, I was thinking of a turtle shell.
I agree with some of the others. Try MEK. |
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Posted: 12/29/2018 10:06:25 PM EST
[#24]
I don't think anything will dissolve the plastic. I will resort to drilling out as much as I can and pick the rest out with a small screwdriver and small heat gun. It will work great, will just take a while. I'll post pics once it's done.
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Posted: 12/29/2018 10:11:07 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't think anything will dissolve the plastic. I will resort to drilling out as much as I can and pick the rest out with a small screwdriver and small heat gun. It will work great, will just take a while. I'll post pics once it's done.  Replace Rear Upper & Lower Control Arm Bushings - Ford Mustang (’73 - ’04) |
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Posted: 12/29/2018 10:16:56 PM EST
[#26]
That poor rubber duck...
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Posted: 1/20/2019 2:35:34 AM EST
[#27]
Any updates?
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Posted: 1/20/2019 6:14:22 AM EST
[#28]
Using a sand/bead blaster will eat it away - If there isn't a desire to keep what remains of the anodized finish inside. The plastic will blast away before the metal. You may have some hard to reach spots with the nozzle, but should get much of it out.
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Posted: 1/20/2019 6:33:48 AM EST
[#29]
I tried the carburetor cleaner, nothing. Haven't tried the MEK yet. I've been slowly drilling out pieces of the plastic, it's a super nasty tough almost a resin. The next thing I want to try is the baking at 350° for a while and trying to pull the rebar out of the rear. Here is what it looks like at present.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/20/2019 7:41:41 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tried the carburetor cleaner, nothing. Haven't tried the MEK yet. I've been slowly drilling out pieces of the plastic, it's a super nasty tough almost a resin. The next thing I want to try is the baking at 350° for a while and trying to pull the rebar out of the rear. Here is what it looks like at present. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66729/2019-01-20_05_19_43_jpg-814424.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66729/2019-01-20_05_19_30_jpg-814425.JPG |
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Posted: 1/20/2019 9:24:43 AM EST
[#31]
Heat the rebar up with a torch to separate it from the epoxy. You can get it red hot it’s not going to hurt the forging but you will not need to get it that hot. As it all melts just push it out. You can then work on getting out the rest of the epoxy
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Posted: 1/20/2019 9:53:29 AM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wonder how many different versions of the ducks were made? Seems like some get pretty detailed with many useable parts. The one I have isn't. Was hoping it would have had a cast FSB but it's a later barrel. one like the OP, one I have is an A1, but the upper is a rubber/resin casting, the barrel may be real in it, but only a small part of is shows at the muzzle, and I have another , A1, that uses a standard A1 upper (charging handle epoxied or glassed in place) the lower also uses a standard stock and grip, but is made from fiberglass, (has trigger, no hammer, and mag release button is sideways or turned 90degrees) |
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Posted: 1/26/2019 12:56:17 AM EST
[#33]
I heated up the rebar and was able to pull it out with vice grips. There's still a good deal of the resin left, but it should come out pretty easy now. Once it's our I'll probably send it off to SnF to get blasted and anodized.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/26/2019 3:30:45 AM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would stick it in the oven at 300-350 for an hour. I know that won't hurt the aluminum because we cure Norrells at those temps for an hour. It will probably melt out or at least make is soft enough to pull out. |
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Posted: 1/26/2019 9:22:30 AM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I heated up the rebar and was able to pull it out with vice grips. There's still a good deal of the resin left, but it should come out pretty easy now. Once it's our I'll probably send it off to SnF to get blasted and anodized. |
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Posted: 1/27/2019 1:18:11 PM EST
[#36]
A labor of love!
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Posted: 1/28/2019 1:16:14 AM EST
[#37]
Almost there. Just have the channel that the charging handle rides in left. Now since this is an early square forging, would this be correct for an XM16E1? It does have the rebated front lug.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 1/28/2019 9:38:36 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Almost there. Just have the channel that the charging handle rides in left. Now since this is an early square forging, would this be correct for an XM16E1? It does have the rebated front lug. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66729/2019-01-28_00_08_53_jpg-824111.JPG |
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Posted: 1/29/2019 11:33:39 AM EST
[#39]
Got all the plastic crap out. It is still dirty and has a few dings and scratches from the scraping away of the resin. I slipped in a charging handle and BCG and it is actually pretty smooth. I see no reason why this won't look great after a bead blast and anodizing job. The problem now is, I've gotta build an XM16E1 clone.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/29/2019 11:38:02 AM EST
[#40]
Way to stay at it. Can't wait to see the final "After" photos, but great job on getting it to this point.
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Posted: 1/29/2019 12:24:06 PM EST
[#41]
Nice save!!
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Posted: 1/29/2019 12:46:44 PM EST
[#42]
Good job
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Posted: 1/29/2019 3:07:51 PM EST
[#43]
Good deal.
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Posted: 1/29/2019 3:55:55 PM EST
[#44]
You have way more patience than I have!
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Posted: 1/29/2019 4:04:51 PM EST
[#45]
Nice! Subscribed!
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Posted: 1/29/2019 5:06:37 PM EST
[#46]
Badass.
I was wondering how you would end up. Very nice. 
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Posted: 1/29/2019 8:15:13 PM EST
[#47]
Set it up on my A2 lower just to see how smooth it is. Actually locks up pretty tight. It will probably be solid as a rock with the new anodizing.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 1/29/2019 8:16:56 PM EST
[#48]
Looks good Phil!
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Posted: 1/29/2019 8:21:33 PM EST
[#49]
Great work on saving that beauty!
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Posted: 1/29/2019 9:00:47 PM EST
[#50]
Get a red scotch pad like you use for auto paint prep, a heat gun from northern tool($20), heat the surfaces then scrub them with the red scotch pad. Any remaining rubber bits should scrub off.
Good job by the way! |
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