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ARC Fire V2 (Page 11 of 13)
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: HKH I'll get on it today. All of my ARC-Fires (seven ish?) worked out of the box, so I've been struggling to write a troubleshooting guide for them. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: HKH I'll get on it today. All of my ARC-Fires (seven ish?) worked out of the box, so I've been struggling to write a troubleshooting guide for them. Same lmao. Minor issues with the levers loosening up…but that’s it. Once they’re set up I find the AZR as bulletproof, but it does require setup often. The arc-fire just drops in. Originally Posted By spyderboy03: So one of my 2 ARC-Fires wouldn't allow the BCG to be charged if the muzzle of the rifle was pointed down. Did a little searching and found a guy who experienced the same and made his own lever blocker. He put the file out there so you can download and print yourself. A buddy printed a few for me and it fixed my issue! I like that it slips over the FCG vs having to install under the trigger. https://i.imgur.com/kyhOqBt.jpeg Yeah you have to have some sort of lever blocker for any hammer like this. I do like that style of blocker. Much easier install. |
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Originally Posted By BKenton: What sort of issues? They seem to be working fine so far feels like they add some slip I don't love but it's not the end of the world. Originally Posted By BKenton: Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Correct. I had issues while using the AS Designs lever blocker. What sort of issues? They seem to be working fine so far feels like they add some slip I don't love but it's not the end of the world. Searched Google and a few people had the issue and were also using AS Designs lever blockers. One of the posters did some diagnostics and determined it was the lever blocker flexing and created a 3D printed variation. Fixed the issue for me. |
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Ran a few mags through my rifle with the V2 today and my trigger pin kept walking out. I've never seen this, any suggestions? Post a pic of your trigger pin? The hammer spring fits into one or both of the grooves and retains it. |
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: I’m retarded, installed the hammer spring wrong. I did a D60 mag dump with no malfunctions, surprised it ran tbh 
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It was not preached to the crowd,
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No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
| Those that have had these a while, would you buy again? Any issues? I did AZ 3-pos, easy no tinkering. Is this drop in and go if you have a H3 buffer? Have friends that want a FRT and looking at Rare Greed, since it drops in. Trying to get them triggered or this one. |
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Originally Posted By zoe17: Those that have had these a while, would you buy again? Any issues? I did AZ 3-pos, easy no tinkering. Is this drop in and go if you have a H3 buffer? Have friends that want a FRT and looking at Rare Greed, since it drops in. Trying to get them triggered or this one. I would absolutely buy again. In my opinion, it's the best FRT on the market, especially with a Geissele trigger. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I would absolutely buy again. In my opinion, it's the best FRT on the market, especially with a Geissele trigger. Link to site to buy from? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By zoe17: Link to site to buy from? Thanks Originally Posted By zoe17: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I would absolutely buy again. In my opinion, it's the best FRT on the market, especially with a Geissele trigger. Link to site to buy from? Thanks Straight from AS Designs is where I've bought mine, apart from when the V1s were being blown out a few months back through other retailers. https://activesafetydesigns.com/ar15/ |
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| Did anyone buy a pre cut trigger? For non AR guys that just bought and shoot, they might not want to fool with dremel work. Guess they could always get a Partisian/Triggered FRT. |
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Originally Posted By zoe17: Did anyone buy a pre cut trigger? For non AR guys that just bought and shoot, they might not want to fool with dremel work. Guess they could always get a Partisian/Triggered FRT. I've bought, I think, three precut SSA-Es from Deez Nutz Tactical, and one SSA from Mid Tier Defense. I still haven't cut one myself. |
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Originally Posted By zoe17: Link to site to buy from? Thanks $224.99 right now on our site. https://inoculum-group.com/product/as-designs-arc-fire-trigger-v2-ambi-kit/ |
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Originally Posted By zoe17: Did anyone buy a pre cut trigger? For non AR guys that just bought and shoot, they might not want to fool with dremel work. Guess they could always get a Partisian/Triggered FRT. I've cut several dozen for people at this point. Not as a business, just trying to help people out, given the hack jobs out there. It's a fairly easy mod to do, although it depends on the trigger and version of Arcfire. S3Gs/SSPs and similar short take-up G triggers are incredibly easy regardless of the version. SSAs and SSA-Es are a bit more difficult, especially with V2s. The take-up prior to release requires a significant amount of material to be removed in order to get a clean pull in both semi and FRT with a V2. In my experience, FRT will break cleanly far before semi will. To be fair, that applies more to 45/90 V2s than 90/180, but it's still far more than a V1 cut requires. I've had SSAs that needed to be profiled to the point they'd fail to FRT reset on a V1 and still require more to get a clean pull with a V2 in semi. With the shorter pulls, like an S3G, this isn't an issue. With the short pull sorts of G triggers, most cuts for a V1 will work with a V2. Regardless, the vast majority should be able to cut a G trigger for an Arcfire without much issue. And I'd absolutely get more Arcfires. They are fantastic, and I agree, the best FRT on the market currently. |
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Originally Posted By krdt: I've cut several dozen for people at this point. Not as a business, just trying to help people out, given the hack jobs out there. It's a fairly easy mod to do, although it depends on the trigger and version of Arcfire. S3Gs/SSPs and similar short take-up G triggers are incredibly easy regardless of the version. SSAs and SSA-Es are a bit more difficult, especially with V2s. The take-up prior to release requires a significant amount of material to be removed in order to get a clean pull in both semi and FRT with a V2. In my experience, FRT will break cleanly far before semi will. To be fair, that applies more to 45/90 V2s than 90/180, but it's still far more than a V1 cut requires. I've had SSAs that needed to be profiled to the point they'd fail to FRT reset on a V1 and still require more to get a clean pull with a V2 in semi. With the shorter pulls, like an S3G, this isn't an issue. With the short pull sorts of G triggers, most cuts for a V1 will work with a V2. Regardless, the vast majority should be able to cut a G trigger for an Arcfire without much issue. And I'd absolutely get more Arcfires. They are fantastic, and I agree, the best FRT on the market currently. Originally Posted By krdt: Originally Posted By zoe17: Did anyone buy a pre cut trigger? For non AR guys that just bought and shoot, they might not want to fool with dremel work. Guess they could always get a Partisian/Triggered FRT. I've cut several dozen for people at this point. Not as a business, just trying to help people out, given the hack jobs out there. It's a fairly easy mod to do, although it depends on the trigger and version of Arcfire. S3Gs/SSPs and similar short take-up G triggers are incredibly easy regardless of the version. SSAs and SSA-Es are a bit more difficult, especially with V2s. The take-up prior to release requires a significant amount of material to be removed in order to get a clean pull in both semi and FRT with a V2. In my experience, FRT will break cleanly far before semi will. To be fair, that applies more to 45/90 V2s than 90/180, but it's still far more than a V1 cut requires. I've had SSAs that needed to be profiled to the point they'd fail to FRT reset on a V1 and still require more to get a clean pull with a V2 in semi. With the shorter pulls, like an S3G, this isn't an issue. With the short pull sorts of G triggers, most cuts for a V1 will work with a V2. Regardless, the vast majority should be able to cut a G trigger for an Arcfire without much issue. And I'd absolutely get more Arcfires. They are fantastic, and I agree, the best FRT on the market currently. Any pics on what the S3G/SSP cuts should look like vs the SSA? I have a S3G I’d like to cut |
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Originally Posted By georgeib: Looks like ASD is going to be releasing milspec levers for the V2 that don't have the screws sticking out. Looking forward to it.
Always happy to see new FRT products, but I'm not sure who this is for. It's not really any more clone correct than the ones with screws. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield:
Always happy to see new FRT products, but I'm not sure who this is for. It's not really any more clone correct than the ones with screws. This is mostly just a screwless design, the reason being we are working on a lot of harsher action platforms like the 308 and Gen 12 also SCAR 17, where they have a habit of knocking everything off the gun. The roll pin ARC is for one more durable, which helps some in 308 and zero risk of the selector screws coming loose. The roll pin version, of course, has downsides also like it's harder to install somewhat and is limited to 90 180 only. The lever design is based off the selector I pulled off of, I think my colt 6920. I couldn't use a normal mil spec looking selector since the shaft of the detent bar has to stick out in order for the roll pin to install. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: This is mostly just a screwless design, the reason being we are working on a lot of harsher action platforms like the 308 and Gen 12 also SCAR 17, where they have a habit of knocking everything off the gun. The roll pin ARC is for one more durable, which helps some in 308 and zero risk of the selector screws coming loose. The roll pin version, of course, has downsides also like it's harder to install somewhat and is limited to 90 180 only. The lever design is based off the selector I pulled off of, I think my colt 6920. I couldn't use a normal mil spec looking selector since the shaft of the detent bar has to stick out in order for the roll pin to install. Originally Posted By s3igu2: Originally Posted By ELittlefield:
Always happy to see new FRT products, but I'm not sure who this is for. It's not really any more clone correct than the ones with screws. This is mostly just a screwless design, the reason being we are working on a lot of harsher action platforms like the 308 and Gen 12 also SCAR 17, where they have a habit of knocking everything off the gun. The roll pin ARC is for one more durable, which helps some in 308 and zero risk of the selector screws coming loose. The roll pin version, of course, has downsides also like it's harder to install somewhat and is limited to 90 180 only. The lever design is based off the selector I pulled off of, I think my colt 6920. I couldn't use a normal mil spec looking selector since the shaft of the detent bar has to stick out in order for the roll pin to install. Awesome. I'm eagerly looking forward to that 308 model. Keep up the good work! |
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Originally Posted By krdt: SSAs and SSA-Es are a bit more difficult, especially with V2s. The take-up prior to release requires a significant amount of material to be removed in order to get a clean pull in both semi and FRT with a V2. In my experience, FRT will break cleanly far before semi will. To be fair, that applies more to 45/90 V2s than 90/180, but it's still far more than a V1 cut requires. I've had SSAs that needed to be profiled to the point they'd fail to FRT reset on a V1 and still require more to get a clean pull with a V2 in semi. With the shorter pulls, like an S3G, this isn't an issue. With the short pull sorts of G triggers, most cuts for a V1 will work with a V2. So, confession: I recently bricked a SSAeX trying to get it to drive a MARC. I'm certain the current MARCs are modified from the original release back when they promised drop in with G$. I'm getting to the ARC content, but want to explain that 20+ iterations of taking it slow on the port side rear and I still could not drop the hammer. Current MARC was interfering on the starboard rear. So, too late to simply reproduce my previous MARC/SSAeX success. Grabbed the first batch ARC that was in my trigger kit; worked the starboard rear of the SSAeX SS style and came stupid close to SSAeX redemption. But, too much removed to drop the hammer without slapping the receiver to get the sear to shake the hammer loose. I quoted the above 'cause it leads me to believe there may still be joy for my SSAeX. Nearly offered it to @HKH so he could weld it up and go again. (my welder and my skills aren't ready for firearm applications.) I'm presently seriously considering getting my first v2 based on the info quoted above. I'm holding 5 more reset assisting devices (LAT, 2x Kabutos, mini Kabuto and the MARC that just slapped me) and only have 2 more lowers to build into. Only justification I have for the v2 is salvaging the bricked SSAeX and that ain't a sure thing. I'm deciding that the SSAeX/early MARC trigger feels good enough to take this shot. Besides someone wanted the shelter I was bidding for my deuce and a half past my stretched budget so I can pretend I can afford the attempt. Thanks for reading. I think I talked myself into a v2 while I was typing. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: This is mostly just a screwless design, the reason being we are working on a lot of harsher action platforms like the 308 and Gen 12 also SCAR 17, where they have a habit of knocking everything off the gun. The roll pin ARC is for one more durable, which helps some in 308 and zero risk of the selector screws coming loose. The roll pin version, of course, has downsides also like it's harder to install somewhat and is limited to 90 180 only. The lever design is based off the selector I pulled off of, I think my colt 6920. I couldn't use a normal mil spec looking selector since the shaft of the detent bar has to stick out in order for the roll pin to install. Wow this looks AWESOME! The screws have been the one thing preventing me from considering ARC fires for a serious use weapon. I just can't get over my rifle relying on tiny screws and loctite to stay together. I take it from your description this uses roll pins like the Badger safety? I would strongly prefer a detent like the Radian/FCD/Aero but I'll take what I can get. I imagine doing a detent style would demand more re-engineering and cost. If so PLEASE include a shit ton of extra roll pins. I tinker a lot and am on my last roll pin for my Badger safety, so out of paranoia I am keeping my $90 safety in its current lower for want of what I'm guessing is a $.05 roll pin. |
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Got two ambi V2’s with G$’s up and running today. 8” 300 BO - Geissele phased array barrel, G$ BCG, Geissele Super 42/H3 combo   10.5” 5.56 -Criterion Core barrel, Riflespeed, LMT eBCG, Tubbs spring and Tromix H3 FRT buffer   I used my Rhodie 6 and not the FireTeam today The Phase 5 grips get hot quick. Really hot on the 5.56. |
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@dredeagle I’ve got a 45/90 V2 If you want to send me your trigger I can see if it will run. That way you know before you buy. Mine is set up with the G$ SDE and it took a trick a member shared to get it running. But I did NOT remove any more material than I did on my tutorial. I’d caution against doing what that guy suggested. The SDE is really close geometry to the ssaex but not exact so I won’t say he’s incorrect, I am just advising caution. |
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: Wow this looks AWESOME! The screws have been the one thing preventing me from considering ARC fires for a serious use weapon. I just can't get over my rifle relying on tiny screws and loctite to stay together. I take it from your description this uses roll pins like the Badger safety? I would strongly prefer a detent like the Radian/FCD/Aero but I'll take what I can get. I imagine doing a detent style would demand more re-engineering and cost. If so PLEASE include a shit ton of extra roll pins. I tinker a lot and am on my last roll pin for my Badger safety, so out of paranoia I am keeping my $90 safety in its current lower for want of what I'm guessing is a $.05 roll pin. Roll pin is a pretty standard size 1.5MM and 10MM long (can be longer or shorter dont matter). Once these selectors are out we will share the mcmaster link so people can buy them in bulk i think its like 100 for 12 dollars or something. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: This is mostly just a screwless design, the reason being we are working on a lot of harsher action platforms like the 308 and Gen 12 also SCAR 17, where they have a habit of knocking everything off the gun. The roll pin ARC is for one more durable, which helps some in 308 and zero risk of the selector screws coming loose. The roll pin version, of course, has downsides also like it's harder to install somewhat and is limited to 90 180 only. The lever design is based off the selector I pulled off of, I think my colt 6920. I couldn't use a normal mil spec looking selector since the shaft of the detent bar has to stick out in order for the roll pin to install. Is the Scar version going to work on the 15/16/17 guns or caliber specific? |
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Originally Posted By HK94dude: Is the Scar version going to work on the 15/16/17 guns or caliber specific? SCAR kit will work in everything. It just drops in the factory lower with the factory FCG or Geissele FCG. No custom bolt carrier or anything like that and no modifications to the trigger. |
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Originally Posted By MickB: Any pics on what the S3G/SSP cuts should look like vs the SSA? I have a S3G I’d like to cut I don't have side-by-side images, but this is how I cut my S3Gs (my preferred trigger).  
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Originally Posted By HKH: @dredeagle I’ve got a 45/90 V2 If you want to send me your trigger I can see if it will run. That way you know before you buy. Mine is set up with the G$ SDE and it took a trick a member shared to get it running. But I did NOT remove any more material than I did on my tutorial. I’d caution against doing what that guy suggested. The SDE is really close geometry to the ssaex but not exact so I won’t say he’s incorrect, I am just advising caution. Originally Posted By HKH: @dredeagle I’ve got a 45/90 V2 If you want to send me your trigger I can see if it will run. That way you know before you buy. Mine is set up with the G$ SDE and it took a trick a member shared to get it running. But I did NOT remove any more material than I did on my tutorial. I’d caution against doing what that guy suggested. The SDE is really close geometry to the ssaex but not exact so I won’t say he’s incorrect, I am just advising caution. Not sure what you mean. Are you saying V2s don't need more material removed, especially 2-stage G triggers? If you know a trick to avoid it, I'd like to hear it. Caution is always a good thing, and removing as little material as possible is always advisable. However, I can verify from multiple triggers I've cut that the V2 will tolerate far more material removed than a V1 and still function. And more than that, they will often take more in order to get a clean pull in semi with a V2. In other words, with 2-stage G triggers, you will get a clean pull in both semi and FRT with a V1, whereas a V2 will often be clean in FRT but still extremely heavy in semi. If you know a method to avoid removing further material to solve that heavy pull, I'd like to hear (outside of knocking down the edge of the left radius of a G trigger). ETA: Originally Posted By dredeagle: So, confession: I recently bricked a SSAeX trying to get it to drive a MARC. I'm certain the current MARCs are modified from the original release back when they promised drop in with G$. I'm getting to the ARC content, but want to explain that 20+ iterations of taking it slow on the port side rear and I still could not drop the hammer. Current MARC was interfering on the starboard rear. So, too late to simply reproduce my previous MARC/SSAeX success. Grabbed the first batch ARC that was in my trigger kit; worked the starboard rear of the SSAeX SS style and came stupid close to SSAeX redemption. But, too much removed to drop the hammer without slapping the receiver to get the sear to shake the hammer loose. I quoted the above 'cause it leads me to believe there may still be joy for my SSAeX. Nearly offered it to @HKH so he could weld it up and go again. (my welder and my skills aren't ready for firearm applications.) I'm presently seriously considering getting my first v2 based on the info quoted above. I'm holding 5 more reset assisting devices (LAT, 2x Kabutos, mini Kabuto and the MARC that just slapped me) and only have 2 more lowers to build into. Only justification I have for the v2 is salvaging the bricked SSAeX and that ain't a sure thing. I'm deciding that the SSAeX/early MARC trigger feels good enough to take this shot. Besides someone wanted the shelter I was bidding for my deuce and a half past my stretched budget so I can pretend I can afford the attempt. Thanks for reading. I think I talked myself into a v2 while I was typing. Yeah, I won't guarantee it because I haven't seen how far gone it is, but there is definitely a chance a trigger with too much material removed will work with a V2. They are absolutely more forgiving. I could overcut a trigger right now that won't even reset in FRT on a V1 and have it work 100% in a V2. In some cases, it might even require more material to be removed. To be clear, I'm not advocating people go wild if they have V2s; you still need to be prudent and careful. But, in my experience, V2s -- especially 45/90 V2s -- will be far more lenient with too much material removed. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: Roll pin is a pretty standard size 1.5MM and 10MM long (can be longer or shorter dont matter). Once these selectors are out we will share the mcmaster link so people can buy them in bulk i think its like 100 for 12 dollars or something. Excellent! |
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Originally Posted By krdt: Not sure what you mean. Are you saying V2s don't need more material removed, especially 2-stage G triggers? If you know a trick to avoid it, I'd like to hear it. Originally Posted By krdt: Not sure what you mean. Are you saying V2s don't need more material removed, especially 2-stage G triggers? If you know a trick to avoid it, I'd like to hear it. My V2 45/90 is factory crisp now thanks to this tidbit. It was pulling at 20lbs it seemed. Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV |
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Originally Posted By HKH: My V2 45/90 is factory crisp now thanks to this tidbit. It was pulling at 20lbs it seemed. Interesting, next time I get an SSA/SSA-E/SSA-EX, I'll give that a try. For short pull/single stage G triggers like the S3G/SSP, I've had zero issues with the V2 in semi or FRT, and no need for further removal versus a V1 cut. With a 2-stage, it has always required more removal for a clean pull in semi. Either way, for anyone with an overcut trigger, I can confirm without a doubt that the V2 is more forgiving compared to a V1. I've tested this multiple times. |
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Finally got my V2 installed in my SBR lower. Tested with the 9mm CMMG upper and no bueno. Best it'll do is a 3 round burst, stop, release trigger, then another 3 round burst. Had a lot of feed issues. Son was standing to the side and he said it didn't look like the BCG was going back far enough. It seems to run fine in semi mode though. I'm running an A5 tube, Warthog spring and Kynshot buffer that Amphibian recommended. With the Franklin binary installed, it ran like a raped ape. I notice there is a bit of side to side play with both the trigger and the lever arm, not sure of that makes a difference. Also wondering how far back the lever arm needs to go. In the lower there is a shelf that extends forward from where the grip screw hole is, and I tried to see if the lever is hitting it, but it doesn't look like it, but not sure how low the lever should go in the rear position. Another potential issue is the Endomags. It could be causing some feed issues, but again, it all ran well with binary in it. Will load up some 300 Blk subs when I'm off work next and give that upper a try, but really want it to run with the 9mm upper too. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: SCAR kit will work in everything. It just drops in the factory lower with the factory FCG or Geissele FCG. No custom bolt carrier or anything like that and no modifications to the trigger. Originally Posted By s3igu2: Originally Posted By HK94dude: Is the Scar version going to work on the 15/16/17 guns or caliber specific? SCAR kit will work in everything. It just drops in the factory lower with the factory FCG or Geissele FCG. No custom bolt carrier or anything like that and no modifications to the trigger. Thanks! Soon I hope |
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Originally Posted By EDL: Finally got my V2 installed in my SBR lower. Tested with the 9mm CMMG upper and no bueno. Best it'll do is a 3 round burst, stop, release trigger, then another 3 round burst. Had a lot of feed issues. Son was standing to the side and he said it didn't look like the BCG was going back far enough. It seems to run fine in semi mode though. I'm running an A5 tube, Warthog spring and Kynshot buffer that Amphibian recommended. With the Franklin binary installed, it ran like a raped ape. I notice there is a bit of side to side play with both the trigger and the lever arm, not sure of that makes a difference. Also wondering how far back the lever arm needs to go. In the lower there is a shelf that extends forward from where the grip screw hole is, and I tried to see if the lever is hitting it, but it doesn't look like it, but not sure how low the lever should go in the rear position. Another potential issue is the Endomags. It could be causing some feed issues, but again, it all ran well with binary in it. Will load up some 300 Blk subs when I'm off work next and give that upper a try, but really want it to run with the 9mm upper too. @EDL my V1 required shims to run with my RDB upper. Now it runs like a top. |
The posts made on this forum are purely my private opinion and don’t represent any employer or entity I am professionally associated with.
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Originally Posted By EDL: Which shims, where did you get them? If you contact AS designs they will send you some. The specific shim was linked in a different thread, I’ll try and go find it. |
The posts made on this forum are purely my private opinion and don’t represent any employer or entity I am professionally associated with.
I must say that AS Designs customer service is top notch. I contacted them over the weekend about an issue, and they responded almost immediately. Today, I received an email from them that they were sending me a replacement part.   One big THANK YOU to ASD! |
An armed society is a polite society.
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How tight should the lever be on the bar? Mine rocks side to side with a fair bit of play. I mean it tilts left and right a fair bit, and can even twist some, not necessarily the whole thing sliding side to side. It's like the hole in the bottom of the lever is too big for the bar, if that makes sense. I also want to mic out the trigger pocket in my lower to make sure it's within spec (0.69"). If it's out of spec (too wide) I'm sure that would cause issues. It's also possible that the Warthog spring is too stiff with the added friction from the lever and is not sending the BCG back far enough, which would cause it to fail to reset. That will be an easy test with a lighter spring. I'll contact ASD about those shims. |
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