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Link Posted: 12/4/2013 10:56:23 AM EST
[Last Edit: spectre04] [#1]
Edit, page owned.  A shitty cell pic whilst it waits for the RIS FSP to be delivered.




The 16"  on the LE6920 SOCOM is still the "socom" profile, sans the cuts as others have stated.  Just wanted to share the pic.


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Originally Posted By cmcflex:


That and the 6920 version will be 16" (thus looking like a standard 6920 barrel forward of the gas block) rather than 14.5".
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Originally Posted By cmcflex:
Originally Posted By ATTom:
Thank you. How do you tell a 6920 m4 from a 6920 socom barrell? They don't have the flot spots for the m203?


That and the 6920 version will be 16" (thus looking like a standard 6920 barrel forward of the gas block) rather than 14.5".

Link Posted: 12/4/2013 11:01:12 AM EST
[Last Edit: TexasRifleman] [#2]
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 11:06:29 AM EST
[#3]
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 11:10:08 AM EST
[#4]
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 1:16:03 PM EST
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By cowboy:



"Little less" is a little understated IME with the PPU. But still a fantastic round if you don't need 1MOA accuracy.

If I'm shooting at a living critter though, its either 75/77 or 50gr TSX in my shorty.
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Originally Posted By cowboy:
Originally Posted By GreenSwamperin:
Originally Posted By patriot_man:
Originally Posted By Will816:
Thanksgiving shooting and a slayed fox, courtesy of the Block II.  The fox was actually kinda fun to hunt, shot it in the pitch black with my light.  I am now a true believer in the 77 gr Sierra Matchking, I put one round through his neck at about 40 yards and his head wasn't really attached anymore, just some muscle fibers on the entry side and the skin on his throat and back of his neck.  Spinal column, trachea, esophagus, and all the muscle on the exit side, as well as the skin were blown away.  So it will be a headless pelt, but otherwise in great shape.

[email=mailto:http://www.flickr.com/photos/46381179@N04/11200877313/]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/11200877313_523b2049d1_b.jpg[/email]
Untitled by Will816, on Flickr

[email=mailto:http://www.flickr.com/photos/46381179@N04/11200896493/]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5503/11200896493_599d451d1f_b.jpg[/email]
Untitled by Will816, on Flickr

[email=mailto:http://www.flickr.com/photos/46381179@N04/11200773305/]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/11200773305_2978560979_b.jpg[/email]
Untitled by Will816, on Flickr


Cool pics, thanks for sharing.

I've never shot anything with 77 gr SMK but it always grouped 1 MOA or less out of my Colt... if I had the money that's what I'd shoot all the time.

  77gr SMK's are unquestionably efficient, but I've had just as good of results with the much easier to obtain 75gr TAP. Even the 75gr PPU is devastating, albeit maybe a little less consistent in the accuracy department.



"Little less" is a little understated IME with the PPU. But still a fantastic round if you don't need 1MOA accuracy.

If I'm shooting at a living critter though, its either 75/77 or 50gr TSX in my shorty.

I have some Black Hills 50 gr and 70 gr TSX that I haven't shot yet.  Really looking forward to it, though.  My dad and I bought 5 100 count boxes of the 70 gr TSX bullets that we're going to use to make a clone of the BH 70 gr TSX rounds.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 4:10:20 PM EST
[#6]
I'd love to put together a clone after getting a deal on a SOPMOD stock, but I am trying to figure out the best approach to take to get there.

Is the general consensus that it's "easier" to build a clone by keeping an eye out for a complete rifle rather than trying to put one together piecemeal? I saw that some folks had purchased a complete rifle just to get the properly stamped lower, but that sure seems like an expensive route to take if you don't care for the rail or FSB that comes with the rifle in question. So buy a complete rifle and then modify it to taste?

Any helpful hints for this noob would be greatly appreciated.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 4:29:53 PM EST
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CAmudcat:
I'd love to put together a clone after getting a deal on a SOPMOD stock, but I am trying to figure out the best approach to take to get there.

Is the general consensus that it's "easier" to build a clone by keeping an eye out for a complete rifle rather than trying to put one together piecemeal? I saw that some folks had purchased a complete rifle just to get the properly stamped lower, but that sure seems like an expensive route to take if you don't care for the rail or FSB that comes with the rifle in question. So buy a complete rifle and then modify it to taste?

Any helpful hints for this noob would be greatly appreciated.
View Quote


If I were to do it all over again I'd probably buy a complete 6920 SOCOM, sell the 16" barrel and then replace it with a 14.5" SOCOM barrel. The FSB can be shaved if you want a full length RIS II so that shouldn't matter and you can always sell the rail that comes with the gun.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 4:35:18 PM EST
[#8]
Mixed bag.   Daniel Defense has an AcuSport exclusive "M4A1" version.... Correct rail, incorrect barrel profile and muzzle device already pinned.  Noveske makes a Block II upper for someone:  Again, correct rail, but incorrect gas system.

It depends entirely on how "close" you want to get.   The most hardcore guys have the money to piss away to piece the gun together from the ground up with "correct" hardware.  If you want to buy a factory built rifle while trying to walk the clone line, it's hard to argue with a base 6920, then adding to it as you see fit.  

I started with a 6920 socom, for the rollmark and barrel profile as I refuse to go the pinned 14.5 route.   That alone guarantees me an incorrect clone.  Do I care?  nope.  

Also consider how some "correct" hardware most of simply don't use anymore.... non-winter trigger guards, standard pistol grips, brakes, etc.   The newer/custom parts are usually seen in the wild, thus

I am impressed with and envious of some rifles in this thread, along with the user's attention to detail.  I am not of said affliction, so I'll continue being happy with my toys and just drool.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 4:35:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: GAshooter11] [#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CAmudcat:
I'd love to put together a clone after getting a deal on a SOPMOD stock, but I am trying to figure out the best approach to take to get there.

Is the general consensus that it's "easier" to build a clone by keeping an eye out for a complete rifle rather than trying to put one together piecemeal? I saw that some folks had purchased a complete rifle just to get the properly stamped lower, but that sure seems like an expensive route to take if you don't care for the rail or FSB that comes with the rifle in question. So buy a complete rifle and then modify it to taste?

Any helpful hints for this noob would be greatly appreciated.
View Quote


I've done all my block II builds piece by piece (4 now). Cheaper in my opinion. Keep your eyes peeled on the EE & gun broker has some hard to find goodies well (scored a Colt LPK, CH & BCG on there this past week. My new "goto"  PR build is a week away from being done.


ETA: I agree with Stevie only because you score 6920's at Walmart for the low low. But to hell with 16"s
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 4:40:43 PM EST
[#10]
Thanks to everyone for the fast and informative responses. Looks like I'll keep an eye out on the EE for the parts I like and try to find a deal on a complete 6920 SOCOM in the meantime.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 4:42:03 PM EST
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:


If I were to do it all over again I'd probably buy a complete 6920 SOCOM, sell the 16" barrel and then replace it with a 14.5" SOCOM barrel. The FSB can be shaved if you want a full length RIS II so that shouldn't matter and you can always sell the rail that comes with the gun.
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Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
Originally Posted By CAmudcat:
I'd love to put together a clone after getting a deal on a SOPMOD stock, but I am trying to figure out the best approach to take to get there.

Is the general consensus that it's "easier" to build a clone by keeping an eye out for a complete rifle rather than trying to put one together piecemeal? I saw that some folks had purchased a complete rifle just to get the properly stamped lower, but that sure seems like an expensive route to take if you don't care for the rail or FSB that comes with the rifle in question. So buy a complete rifle and then modify it to taste?

Any helpful hints for this noob would be greatly appreciated.


If I were to do it all over again I'd probably buy a complete 6920 SOCOM, sell the 16" barrel and then replace it with a 14.5" SOCOM barrel. The FSB can be shaved if you want a full length RIS II so that shouldn't matter and you can always sell the rail that comes with the gun.

This^

I have an older Law Enforcement marked rifle for my Block II and a SPORTER M4 CARBINE marked SP6920 for my PR.

If I could do it again, I'd definitely get the SOCOM model as the basis for my PR, that's pretty much what SP6920 has turned into anyway except its a government profile and 16" but someday will have the correct barrel. As for my Block II... I dunno. That rifle was my first new in box AR, I bought it in 2009 and it uses standard dimension pins and I'm just very partial to it... But if that was not the case, yes, I'd start with a SOCOM in order to get the M4A1 roll mark

And it's always cool to hear someone say "I got a SOPMOD stock, now I need to build a clone!"
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 4:48:14 PM EST
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Will816:
And it's always cool to hear someone say "I got a SOPMOD stock, now I need to build a clone!"
View Quote


You have no idea. This site has been hell on my bank account, but I have a ton of new tools to show for it.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 5:32:18 PM EST
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CAmudcat:


You have no idea. This site has been hell on my bank account, but I have a ton of new tools to show for it.
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Originally Posted By CAmudcat:
Originally Posted By Will816:
And it's always cool to hear someone say "I got a SOPMOD stock, now I need to build a clone!"


You have no idea. This site has been hell on my bank account, but I have a ton of new tools to show for it.


When I read that I thought "the epitome of BRD in general, M4A1/SPOPMOD clonery in particular".

The easiest way to get the M4A1 roll mark is to get the 6920 SOCOM...except for the extra barrel length, you're starting with an M4A1 clone.  Replace the rail when you're ready:  done.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 6:12:27 PM EST
[Last Edit: zemperfi1971] [#14]
Thank you so much for sharing with us your goodies and insight.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 7:09:49 PM EST
[#15]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CAmudcat:
You have no idea. This site has been hell on my bank account, but I have a ton of new tools to show for it.

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Originally Posted By CAmudcat:



Originally Posted By Will816:

And it's always cool to hear someone say "I got a SOPMOD stock, now I need to build a clone!"




You have no idea. This site has been hell on my bank account, but I have a ton of new tools to show for it.



And you ain't even been here a full year yet.  



For real, it gets worse.



 
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 8:04:11 PM EST
[#16]
i also did my rifle piecemeal, and it was cheaper imo. the lower i already had, i just added a CQD rear mount. for the upper, i just watched the EE for deals, got my colt m4 upper complete for 200 from SAW, along with the colt gas tube, the rail from brownells, DD mk12 gas block and KAC front sight from operation parts, and the barrel from the EE brand new colt socom 14.5 for 250. this was during the panic too so its definately possible. no wasted money.
Link Posted: 12/4/2013 8:35:02 PM EST
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By RTUtah:

And you ain't even been here a full year yet.  

For real, it gets worse.
 
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Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By CAmudcat:
Originally Posted By Will816:
And it's always cool to hear someone say "I got a SOPMOD stock, now I need to build a clone!"


You have no idea. This site has been hell on my bank account, but I have a ton of new tools to show for it.

And you ain't even been here a full year yet.  

For real, it gets worse.
 


First logged in in 99...  I understand...
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:13:28 AM EST
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:


If I were to do it all over again I'd probably buy a complete 6920 SOCOM, sell the 16" barrel and then replace it with a 14.5" SOCOM barrel. The FSB can be shaved if you want a full length RIS II so that shouldn't matter and you can always sell the rail that comes with the gun.
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Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
Originally Posted By CAmudcat:
I'd love to put together a clone after getting a deal on a SOPMOD stock, but I am trying to figure out the best approach to take to get there.

Is the general consensus that it's "easier" to build a clone by keeping an eye out for a complete rifle rather than trying to put one together piecemeal? I saw that some folks had purchased a complete rifle just to get the properly stamped lower, but that sure seems like an expensive route to take if you don't care for the rail or FSB that comes with the rifle in question. So buy a complete rifle and then modify it to taste?

Any helpful hints for this noob would be greatly appreciated.


If I were to do it all over again I'd probably buy a complete 6920 SOCOM, sell the 16" barrel and then replace it with a 14.5" SOCOM barrel. The FSB can be shaved if you want a full length RIS II so that shouldn't matter and you can always sell the rail that comes with the gun.

This will probably be your most accurate and cost-effective route.  Colt 6920 SOCOM from Walmart runs about $1500.  Sell the barrel, get a new 14.5" Colt SOCOM barrel--should be pretty much even money, although you may pay just a bit extra for the 14.5" barrel than you can sell the 16" barrel for.  Sell the rail (KAC or Troy) and buy the DD RIS II.  I think you will have to shell out a little extra for this.  The shaved FSB is something you can do at home with a little bit of handiwork and a Dremmel tool.  Or you can shell out about $65 for a DD Mk12 low profile gas block.  KAC front sight will run you about $150-180, depending if you get it used or new (when you can find one).  TangoDown VFG will run you about $67 as well.  Depending if you want a KAC BUIS or Matec, you would be out $40- 180, depending what and where you got it from.  Optics and a can are the places you will shell out the biggest bucks though.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:22:53 AM EST
[#19]
^Christ, what some people will suggest or pay for Colt for no good reason other than it being Colt.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:32:00 AM EST
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
^Christ, what some people will suggest or pay for Colt for no good reason other than it being Colt.
View Quote

Yeah, yeah, yeah.  We all know you're a DD fanboy  The whole point of clones is to get them as close to "as issued" as possible.  At least, that's the way many of us see it.  To each his own, I guess.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:47:11 AM EST
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FAB-10_Guy:

Yeah, yeah, yeah.  We all know you're a DD fanboy  The whole point of clones is to get them as close to "as issued" as possible.  At least, that's the way many of us see it.  To each his own, I guess.
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Originally Posted By FAB-10_Guy:
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
^Christ, what some people will suggest or pay for Colt for no good reason other than it being Colt.

Yeah, yeah, yeah.  We all know you're a DD fanboy  The whole point of clones is to get them as close to "as issued" as possible.  At least, that's the way many of us see it.  To each his own, I guess.


If paying more for less is part of the clone game...I'm dang glad I never went full retard.

I know, I know...I shouldn't be stirring up shit when I know I'm in the wrong here as this is actually a "clone thread."

I just can't help it some times.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:56:15 AM EST
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:


If paying more for less is part of the clone game...I'm dang glad I never went full retard.

I know, I know...I shouldn't be stirring up shit when I know I'm in the wrong here as this is actually a "clone thread."

I just can't help it some times.
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Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
Originally Posted By FAB-10_Guy:
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
^Christ, what some people will suggest or pay for Colt for no good reason other than it being Colt.

Yeah, yeah, yeah.  We all know you're a DD fanboy  The whole point of clones is to get them as close to "as issued" as possible.  At least, that's the way many of us see it.  To each his own, I guess.


If paying more for less is part of the clone game...I'm dang glad I never went full retard.

I know, I know...I shouldn't be stirring up shit when I know I'm in the wrong here as this is actually a "clone thread."

I just can't help it some times.

You're welcome to bring your "look-alikes" to the party then.  They sure look like nice weapons.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 2:19:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: KILLERB6] [#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FAB-10_Guy:

Yeah, yeah, yeah.  We all know you're a DD fanboy  The whole point of clones is to get them as close to "as issued" as possible.  At least, that's the way many of us see it.  To each his own, I guess.
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Originally Posted By FAB-10_Guy:
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
^Christ, what some people will suggest or pay for Colt for no good reason other than it being Colt.

Yeah, yeah, yeah.  We all know you're a DD fanboy  The whole point of clones is to get them as close to "as issued" as possible.  At least, that's the way many of us see it.  To each his own, I guess.


You could say I'm a DD fanboy as well since I will acknowledge that they are generally superior to Colt, but what FAB-10_Guy said.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 10:35:15 AM EST
[#24]
What is the correct Tango-Down vertical grip in FDE? Is it the MK46 model that everyone complains about not fitting on their rail or is it the QD model that is more expensive?

Thanks,
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 10:43:30 AM EST
[Last Edit: cmcflex] [#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By alpha0815:
What is the correct Tango-Down vertical grip in FDE? Is it the MK46 model that everyone complains about not fitting on their rail or is it the QD model that is more expensive?

Thanks,
View Quote


Thus has been discussed before. It is the BGV-ITI in FDE. ETA: non-QD.

It fits fine, you just have to remove the bottom rail (RIS II) to take it off. If you look closely at the muzzle end of the RIS II, you will see why. However, KAC VFGs and Magpul AFGs don't seem to have the same problem.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 11:01:17 AM EST
[Last Edit: spectre04] [#26]


The correct version is the Mk46 one w/insight pocket.  They are indeed a royal bitch to get on at first.  

FSP is installed.  Almost digging the non-painted rail.  


Now just waiting on the exps for christams.   I know I've seen at least one pic of the LMT on a block II (no, it wasn't a mk18)... anyone else rock one?
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 11:14:44 AM EST
[Last Edit: cmcflex] [#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By spectre04:
The correct one is the Mk46 w/insight pocket.  They are indeed a royal bitch to get on at first.  

View Quote


There is no "Mk46" with Insight pocket.

As stated, the correct one is the BGV-ITI.

http://tangodown.com/shop/category/vertical-grips/
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 11:20:10 AM EST
[Last Edit: spectre04] [#28]
doubletap, apologies.  edited above.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:36:46 PM EST
[#29]
I took some sand paper to the rail interface part of my tango down grip. Just took off a little at a time until it fit snug but not overly tight.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:39:02 PM EST
[#30]
I spent about 2 minutes with the non QD TD VFG and my RIS II before I quickly realized it was time to toss it on the EE, and purchase the QD version.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:41:30 PM EST
[#31]
Yeah, the QD version is definitely the way to go on these.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 12:57:32 PM EST
[#32]
spectre04, What happed to your SOPMOD stock? Where did the QD mount out of your stock go to? Fall out?
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 1:23:03 PM EST
[#33]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By cmcflex:
There is no "Mk46" with Insight pocket.



As stated, the correct one is the BGV-ITI.



http://tangodown.com/shop/category/vertical-grips/
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Originally Posted By cmcflex:



Originally Posted By spectre04:

The correct one is the Mk46 w/insight pocket.  They are indeed a royal bitch to get on at first.  







There is no "Mk46" with Insight pocket.



As stated, the correct one is the BGV-ITI.



http://tangodown.com/shop/category/vertical-grips/




 
MK46 has NSN but ITI does not?
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 1:26:18 PM EST
[Last Edit: spectre04] [#34]
Yep, it was removed :)  
I don't recall the exact circumstance, though I'm sure it was something to the effect of "I wonder how it'd look if....".    Where it went, only the underwear gnome knows.

Also, anyone who's thinking of picking up a 500 lumen scout..... do it.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 4:24:26 PM EST
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By spectre04:


The correct version is the Mk46 one w/insight pocket.  They are indeed a royal bitch to get on at first.  

FSP is installed.  Almost digging the non-painted rail.  
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/greyserendipity/media/20131205_115230_RichtoneHDR_zpsb19721d3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/greyserendipity/20131205_115230_RichtoneHDR_zpsb19721d3.jpg</a>
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/greyserendipity/media/20131205_114419_RichtoneHDR_zps4bc44bed.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/greyserendipity/20131205_114419_RichtoneHDR_zps4bc44bed.jpg</a>
Now just waiting on the exps for christams.   I know I've seen at least one pic of the LMT on a block II (no, it wasn't a mk18)... anyone else rock one?
View Quote


love the FPS. Good bud of mine has been rocking the FPS in Afghanistan for years.

Link Posted: 12/5/2013 8:19:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: Tmender03] [#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4tty:

  MK46 has NSN but ITI does not?
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Originally Posted By M4tty:
Originally Posted By cmcflex:
Originally Posted By spectre04:
The correct one is the Mk46 w/insight pocket.  They are indeed a royal bitch to get on at first.  



There is no "Mk46" with Insight pocket.

As stated, the correct one is the BGV-ITI.

http://tangodown.com/shop/category/vertical-grips/

  MK46 has NSN but ITI does not?

NSN# 1095-01-585-7959
Edit: this one is for the QD, it appears there's several TD grips listed in WEBFLIS.
Edit #2: 1005-01-D12-0686 is the best I can do right now, but doesn't show on WEBFLIS or the like.
Link Posted: 12/5/2013 9:37:58 PM EST
[#37]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tmender03:





NSN# 1095-01-585-7959

Edit: this one is for the QD, it appears there's several TD grips listed in WEBFLIS.

Edit #2: 1005-01-D12-0686 is the best I can do right now, but doesn't show on WEBFLIS or the like.

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Originally Posted By Tmender03:



Originally Posted By M4tty:


Originally Posted By cmcflex:


Originally Posted By spectre04:

The correct one is the Mk46 w/insight pocket.  They are indeed a royal bitch to get on at first.  







There is no "Mk46" with Insight pocket.



As stated, the correct one is the BGV-ITI.



http://tangodown.com/shop/category/vertical-grips/


  MK46 has NSN but ITI does not?



NSN# 1095-01-585-7959

Edit: this one is for the QD, it appears there's several TD grips listed in WEBFLIS.

Edit #2: 1005-01-D12-0686 is the best I can do right now, but doesn't show on WEBFLIS or the like.

I have seen a picture of QD in the wild (on a CQBR).  I keep it in case folk saying it is not legit.    I will post it as soon as I have access to it.

 


Link Posted: 12/6/2013 12:16:24 AM EST
[Last Edit: AnthonyL] [#38]
I've been watching eBay for months patiently waiting for a good condition SU-231 marked EOtech 553 Tan to pop up.  Finally paid off, got one LNIB that is absolutely spotless.  This was the very last piece, she is finally done...







Link Posted: 12/6/2013 12:55:56 AM EST
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AnthonyL:
I've been watching eBay for months patiently waiting for a good condition SU-231 marked EOtech 553 Tan to pop up.  Finally paid off, got one LNIB that is absolutely spotless.  This was the very last piece, she is finally done...

http://i.imgur.com/U3cadf9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PXrHRzF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kYPvVv1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zReaqdP.jpg
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Nice to see another restricted marked Colt! Let's see a pic of the whole rifle!

And trust me, you aren't done. I got mine to a similar state as yours, but then I got the Elcan bug... And my Eotech ended up turning into a PR.
Link Posted: 12/6/2013 10:22:26 AM EST
[#40]
Link Posted: 12/6/2013 1:09:34 PM EST
[#41]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AnthonyL:


I've been watching eBay for months patiently waiting for a good condition SU-231 marked EOtech 553 Tan to pop up.  Finally paid off, got one LNIB that is absolutely spotless.  This was the very last piece, she is finally done...



http://i.imgur.com/U3cadf9.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/PXrHRzF.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/kYPvVv1.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/zReaqdP.jpg
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Nice! I thought my SU-231 marked 553 was in good shape; that thing is truly mint!

I see someone just picked up a FSP CQBR rail to go with the M4A1. You're definitely going to have to get an Elcan for the M4A1 now so you can put the 553 on the CQBR
Link Posted: 12/6/2013 7:16:16 PM EST
[Last Edit: AnthonyL] [#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GreenSwamperin:
Nice! I thought my SU-231 marked 553 was in good shape; that thing is truly mint!
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GreenSwamperin:
Nice! I thought my SU-231 marked 553 was in good shape; that thing is truly mint!


Yeah I messaged the seller on eBay asking about the condition and he claimed it was mounted once on the rifle and then put back in the box.  Aside from the fact the batteries were dead as a door nail, you couldn't tell the difference between this one and brand new.  Build date was Sept 07 or 08.

Originally Posted By GreenSwamperin:
I see someone just picked up a FSP CQBR rail to go with the M4A1. You're definitely going to have to get an Elcan for the M4A1 now so you can put the 553 on the CQBR


Yes, these clone threads have been devastating to my bank account.  First the Block II, then I ordered a Douglas MK12 barrel which arrives this month, and now I picked up a MK18 RIS II rail from EE yesterday.  Oh boy....
Link Posted: 12/6/2013 7:43:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: Roadblock] [#43]
Link Posted: 12/7/2013 3:06:22 PM EST
[#44]
Link Posted: 12/7/2013 4:06:11 PM EST
[#45]
New light, WML IR



















 
Link Posted: 12/7/2013 5:23:40 PM EST
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History


Become a huge fan of the WMLs recently.

I can't stand that "desert sand' color though. It's like a light gold almost. It stands out like a sore thumb against any and every other tan or FDE on the market.
Link Posted: 12/7/2013 6:04:25 PM EST
[#47]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
Become a huge fan of the WMLs recently.



I can't stand that "desert sand' color though. It's like a light gold almost. It stands out like a sore thumb against any and every other tan or FDE on the market.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:







Become a huge fan of the WMLs recently.



I can't stand that "desert sand' color though. It's like a light gold almost. It stands out like a sore thumb against any and every other tan or FDE on the market.
I'm loving the light but you are right about the color. It's almost as light as Rustoleum khaki. However, I think once I get an SU-231 on there it should balance pretty well.



Might have to swap the black SOPMOD for a desert earth one though.



 
Link Posted: 12/7/2013 6:06:17 PM EST
[#48]
I agree. At least the Haley WML is available in coyote now and it looks much better.
Link Posted: 12/7/2013 6:09:52 PM EST
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
I agree. At least the Haley WML is available in coyote now and it looks much better.
View Quote


Yeah. I'd get a tan/coyote Haley WML, but they only offer a momentary only WML...seems no one can get it right.
Link Posted: 12/7/2013 6:20:32 PM EST
[#50]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
Yeah. I'd get a tan/coyote Haley WML, but they only offer a momentary only WML...seems no one can get it right.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:



Originally Posted By StevieJ309:

I agree. At least the Haley WML is available in coyote now and it looks much better.




Yeah. I'd get a tan/coyote Haley WML, but they only offer a momentary only WML...seems no one can get it right.
Oh if they had the WML white/IR in that body, I'd gladly buy another.



 
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