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@primaryarms
are there plans to redesign the 12 oclock piggyback mount? |
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Originally Posted By Miles_Urbanus: Looks awesome! How is cheek weld? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Miles_Urbanus: Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By Miles_Urbanus: Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By Miles_Urbanus: Would the 3X be recommended and suitable for a 20” A4 style rifle? On the carry handle? No I was going to take the carry handle off and put it on the receiver rail. But I’m no expert. Should work fine either way. I kinda like them on the carry handle https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20230911_151228_2_jpg-2952794.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/IMG_20230405_111852_jpg-2771365_jpeg-2952795.JPG Looks awesome! How is cheek weld? It's not as tight as irons but I do like my optics a little higher on ARs |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By JustDaniel: This is Penny. I built her around the 3x micro (my third slx 3x). She weighs in at 7.1 lbs and shoots like a dream. https://i.vgy.me/NOeaOK.jpg View Quote Nice setup. Curious how you like the stock I have the 1x, 3x and 5x PA Micro prisms. Of the 3, the 3x is my fav. It seems to have the most versatility in usage. The FOV is noticeably better than the 5x, and the big upside down 3/4 circle is very quick to acquire close in (it does have it's challenges further out in that the thickness can block detail at times). I'd guess, for a 35-300+ yard optic, it's ideal and can work decently enough closer in and further out. One can arguably get by with back up irons and this optic. IMHO, of the three, the 3x is the SHTF optic. The 1x is fantastic for close in. I have it mounted on my HD gun. No issues with eye box at all at any length I'd realistically use. I have a 3x magnifier I use with it sometimes giving it added flexibility. I have an older Aimpoint C3 that I use on another rifle. Comparatively, the 1x is noticeably lighter and is very quick in usage for close in. For me, I'm still a little quicker with the Aimpoint, and there is zero noticeable parallax effect, which I do notice a smidge with the 1x. However, etched reticle, lower weight, and not getting grape clusters allowing for some level of precision resonates with me. The 5x is turning out to be something more specialized in usage. IMHO, 5x becomes very challenging close in. As mentioned, the FOV is decent, but not great. Converted to 1x, the 5x is 101' at 100 yards, with the 3x being 114' at 100 yards. You notice the difference. IMHO, this one really needs an MRDS to go with it for an overall package. Eyebox is decent. I believe the 3x and 5x are listed as having the same eye relief, however the 3x's eye box seems easier to use. |
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I ended up snagging a FDE 1x. Once it shows up and I get some hands on I’ll decide if I still want to try the 3x. Originally all I wanted was the 3x but I talked myself out of it and went with the 1x strictly for my application.
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Originally Posted By radar1225S: I ended up snagging a FDE 1x. Once it shows up and I get some hands on I’ll decide if I still want to try the 3x. Originally all I wanted was the 3x but I talked myself out of it and went with the 1x View Quote I was very happy with my 1X but the 3X blew my mind. As in it took me a lot of research and thought process to understand how they even pulled it off. My expectations weren’t very high but it was beyond that. |
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https://instagram.com/_odiegreen_?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA==
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Just got my 2nd 3x in. First one is my wife's on her 16" lw AR. I'm having analysis paralysis on where I want to put this one. M1 garand, 20"A2, 14.5" carbine, or 11.5.
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Damn y’all now I’m gonna have to buy a 3x to try anyways. You bastards
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Originally Posted By radar1225S: Damn y’all now I’m gonna have to buy a 3x to try anyways. You bastards View Quote ![]() The Aimpoint T2 is the only other optic I’ve owned multiple copies at once if that tells you anything. I’m just waiting for FDE to try the 5X too. |
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https://instagram.com/_odiegreen_?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA==
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"Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara
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Originally Posted By HighpowerRifleBrony: ![]() Is Fluffy still around? Don't let him know. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By HighpowerRifleBrony: Originally Posted By 03RN: Just got my 2nd 3x in. First one is my wife's on her 16" lw AR. I'm having analysis paralysis on where I want to put this one. M1 garand ![]() Is Fluffy still around? Don't let him know. It's non permanent ![]() |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By Willmar: I’m late to this but the Sig is almost a full pound heavier? View Quote Seems to be a trade in usability and weight. I have a Burris 3x micro prism and a sig bravo 5. The bravo is heavy, but is also far easier to look through. I would definitely try them both and decide on the use case and what you are willing to give up. The micros do give up some vision I think for weight gains. |
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Originally Posted By 03RN: It's non permanent https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/PXL_20230416_191346374-01_jpeg-2955569.JPG View Quote Holy Crap! After some research, that appears to be the "Cogburn Arsenal" mount... I never knew such a beast existed! I now have a burning NEED for it! |
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I tried that whole cancer thing. It wasn't for me. Good Riddance.
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Originally Posted By JustDaniel: This is Penny. I built her around the 3x micro (my third slx 3x). She weighs in at 7.1 lbs and shoots like a dream. https://i.vgy.me/NOeaOK.jpg View Quote Given the location you have the sight mounted (and with the rear BUIS mounted forward of the SLx), you could probably change the cantilever part to the straight riser, mount it all the way to the rear, and have the optic at about the same position as you do now. That's what I did, and I think it's a bit more robust setup. YMMV but I thought it was worth a mention. |
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Originally Posted By 03RN: It's non permanent https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/PXL_20230416_191346374-01_jpeg-2955569.JPG View Quote Man, you should have heard the wailing and gnashing of teeth when my parents needed a “bear gun” for their property and I took a Woodless Dane (Garand) and mounted a pic rail, a Trijicon Reflex, and a weapon light…. |
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Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs." |
A modern sight makes a Garand awesomer 😁
![]() … and to keep it on topic, my Cogburn arsenal mount for my newly acquired 3X Prism should be here any day! |
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I tried that whole cancer thing. It wasn't for me. Good Riddance.
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"Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara
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Shooting at 200 yards my best group was 1.7" and a lot of 2.25-3" groups.
Its 1" low at 50 and 2.5" low at 25. At 25 yards I'm keeping hits inside the A zone just under a second from the low ready. ![]() |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Got the new cantilever ADM mount in today. FDE and it’s blatantly obvious these were made for the MP’s and not ACOG’s. Lines up perfectly everywhere. Also got my second 3X MP, this time in FDE. With the Magpul MBUS Gen III I can get it a couple slots further back over the Gen II. Will try and check how it compares to the regular mount placement wise as the profile on the ADM means it’s a little more forgiving on overlap with the new MBUS. It’s touching the MBUS Gen III but you can still pull a piece of paper out from between them. Almost like they designed it around them. https://i.ibb.co/JkccsN0/D6-B4-D87-A-DD8-F-4-CE2-A6-B8-75625-FD5-B035.jpg ETA: Factory mount with Gen II MBUS versus ADM AD-B2-C and Gen III MBUS. https://i.ibb.co/r2B27TS/1-B489-FDB-22-A4-4-C23-858-E-CBF66-D2-C7404.jpg https://i.ibb.co/vPKVR3t/EDA88627-C2-BD-46-BC-91-E5-00-E3-B1-AE11-EE.jpg View Quote Man this is a slick setup I’ve been eyeballing for months to duplicate. I just ordered the AD-B2-C and a 3x to go with it, but I’m just noticing now on the ADM website the AD-B2-C looks SLIGHTLY lower than yours. Also there is a warning on the order page that states it won’t fit over BUIS. Any chance they altered the height of the -C since you got yours? Maybe when the introduced the other height models with lightening cuts? Hopefully it’s just an optical illusion because I have the Mbus 3 read and I’ve screenshot your build as inspiration for a while and I’m gonna be bummed if it’s not as perfect ![]() Hopefully it’s an optical illusion from the pictures on ADMs site! Edit: okay I’m almost positive the new -S looks more like your “-C”!!! Any chance you have a HoB measurement? I guess I’ll find out either way soon ![]() |
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They were refering to the old magpul buis sights that are thicker. Can confirm that the 1.64" height will not fit over the old magpul sights.
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Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Mine is the discontinued first generation but I’m 95% sure they were 1.54 like the S. Mine clears the Gen 3 MBUS by a hair. As in I could pull out a piece of paper but not fit a credit card between them. Haven’t had any zero issues and it hasn’t tried to pop the sight up like the PA mount did for me with Gen 2 MBUS in similar spacing. Worst case scenario you might be able to move it another slot forward. I’d have went with the 1.64 if it was available back then, and would typically recommend going that route. https://i.ibb.co/g7PFdn8/5-FD158-AB-F2-A7-4238-A76-D-70-B531-DF7483.jpg ETA: Looking at the new ones they might have thickened the mounting tang. So it might not be a height over bore difference, they might have just beefed it up. Hopefully it works and please update on what you find. If the original was 1.5 I’m in disbelief that even a 1.64 model can’t clear the MBUS 3. View Quote I have emailed them, hopefully I can change it out before they ship it. The closer to absolute height the better for me it just feels so comfy. But 1.64 might be the better option. |
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Originally Posted By Joedirt199: They were refering to the old magpul buis sights that are thicker. Can confirm that the 1.64" height will not fit over the old magpul sights. View Quote Correct and that’s the difference we’re talking about. The first generation 1.5 mount cleared Gen 3 MBUS. The new generation 1.5 mount apparently doesn’t. |
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https://instagram.com/_odiegreen_?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA==
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Originally Posted By PowderBurnsNC: Given the location you have the sight mounted (and with the rear BUIS mounted forward of the SLx), you could probably change the cantilever part to the straight riser, mount it all the way to the rear, and have the optic at about the same position as you do now. That's what I did, and I think it's a bit more robust setup. YMMV but I thought it was worth a mention. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By PowderBurnsNC: Originally Posted By JustDaniel: This is Penny. I built her around the 3x micro (my third slx 3x). She weighs in at 7.1 lbs and shoots like a dream. https://i.vgy.me/NOeaOK.jpg Given the location you have the sight mounted (and with the rear BUIS mounted forward of the SLx), you could probably change the cantilever part to the straight riser, mount it all the way to the rear, and have the optic at about the same position as you do now. That's what I did, and I think it's a bit more robust setup. YMMV but I thought it was worth a mention. That mount was temporary. It now has a QD mount |
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Originally Posted By rauchman: Nice setup. Curious how you like the stock View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By rauchman: Originally Posted By JustDaniel: This is Penny. I built her around the 3x micro (my third slx 3x). She weighs in at 7.1 lbs and shoots like a dream. https://i.vgy.me/NOeaOK.jpg Nice setup. Curious how you like the stock I like it. I use B5s on everything so I chose the fixed bravo for the weight savings. |
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Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Mine is the discontinued first generation but I’m 95% sure they were 1.54 like the S. Mine clears the Gen 3 MBUS by a hair. As in I could pull out a piece of paper but not fit a credit card between them. Haven’t had any zero issues and it hasn’t tried to pop the sight up like the PA mount did for me with Gen 2 MBUS in similar spacing. Worst case scenario you might be able to move it another slot forward. I’d have went with the 1.64 if it was available back then, and would typically recommend going that route. https://i.ibb.co/g7PFdn8/5-FD158-AB-F2-A7-4238-A76-D-70-B531-DF7483.jpg ETA: Looking at the new ones they might have thickened the mounting tang. So it might not be a height over bore difference, they might have just beefed it up. Hopefully it works and please update on what you find. If the original was 1.5 I’m in disbelief that even a 1.64 model can’t clear the MBUS 3. View Quote Confirmed with ADM, these mounts in their current generation have different clearances compared to the 1st Gen, take note of their clearly posted notices on the product page. Hopefully they will take care of their lowest common denominator customers such as myself lol. Bummer that they kept the product code the same for both generations but maybe I’ll slow down and read more carefully next time! |
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Originally Posted By Aggie_Gunner: Holy Crap! After some research, that appears to be the "Cogburn Arsenal" mount... I never knew such a beast existed! I now have a burning NEED for it! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Aggie_Gunner: Originally Posted By 03RN: It's non permanent https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/PXL_20230416_191346374-01_jpeg-2955569.JPG Holy Crap! After some research, that appears to be the "Cogburn Arsenal" mount... I never knew such a beast existed! I now have a burning NEED for it! Indeed… ![]() ![]() |
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"... I can't look at hovels and I can't stand fences..."
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I tried that whole cancer thing. It wasn't for me. Good Riddance.
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Originally Posted By Aggie_Gunner: Pic… https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/55187/IMG_7656_jpeg-2982467.JPG View Quote How's the length of pull/eye relief? |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Had the 3x on my rifle during a 4 day canoe trip where it got bumped around quite a bit. We'll see how the zero is next time I go shoot. I like the optic a lot but I'm just not sure how rugged they are for long term use.
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By 03RN: Had the 3x on my rifle during a 4 day canoe trip where it got bumped around quite a bit. We'll see how the zero is next time I go shoot. I like the optic a lot but I'm just not sure how rugged they are for long term use. View Quote Hurry up and test the zero, enquiring minds want to know! |
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China delenda est
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![]() Probably Friday |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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I tried that whole cancer thing. It wasn't for me. Good Riddance.
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Anyone mounted one of these on a bolt gun? I've been thinking about putting on on an 18" .308 bolt gun with Pic base over the receiver but I'm not sure it'll work well with the height over bore and eye relief (I shoot rifles with a giraffe-neck)
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Originally Posted By mooreshawnm: Hurry up and test the zero, enquiring minds want to know! View Quote Originally Posted By alphajaguars: https://media4.giphy.com/media/LpM872FjZASlTCw2uK/giphy.gif?cid=2154d3d7qqbq70di76ilhh3bsyuwymc7nqxxypz598n6mn7a&ep=v1_gifs_search&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g View Quote So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home from my canoe trip but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180°. Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By 03RN: So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180°. Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By mooreshawnm: Hurry up and test the zero, enquiring minds want to know! So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180°. Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it This is appreciated. I’ve bought two of these including one on my go to rifle. |
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China delenda est
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Originally Posted By mooreshawnm: This is appreciated. I’ve bought two of these including one on my go to rifle. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mooreshawnm: Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By mooreshawnm: Hurry up and test the zero, enquiring minds want to know! So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180°. Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it This is appreciated. I’ve bought two of these including one on my go to rifle. No problem. What mount are you count to use? |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By 03RN: No problem. What mount are you count to use? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By mooreshawnm: Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By mooreshawnm: Hurry up and test the zero, enquiring minds want to know! So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180°. Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it This is appreciated. I’ve bought two of these including one on my go to rifle. No problem. What mount are you count to use? I’m just using the stock ones now but haven’t put the rifle through any abuse. ![]() |
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China delenda est
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Originally Posted By 03RN: So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home from my canoe trip but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180°. Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it View Quote Did you thread lock it? This was a regular issue with ACOG’s back when I joined here and there was a lot of debate amongst the GWOT guys about how to keep carry handle mounts from coming loose. I vaguely remember guys saying you’ll know it’s tight enough using a quarter when it starts bending. |
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https://instagram.com/_odiegreen_?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA==
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Originally Posted By 03RN: So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home from my canoe trip but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180 . Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it View Quote |
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"Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara
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Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Did you thread lock it? This was a regular issue with ACOG’s back when I joined here and there was a lot of debate amongst the GWOT guys about how to keep carry handle mounts from coming loose. I vaguely remember guys saying you’ll know it’s tight enough using a quarter when it starts bending. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Originally Posted By 03RN: So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home from my canoe trip but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180°. Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it Did you thread lock it? This was a regular issue with ACOG’s back when I joined here and there was a lot of debate amongst the GWOT guys about how to keep carry handle mounts from coming loose. I vaguely remember guys saying you’ll know it’s tight enough using a quarter when it starts bending. It's an A2 so I'm not worried about the carry handle getting loose ![]() |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By HighpowerRifleBrony: Could you drill another hole in the handle for a second bolt? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By HighpowerRifleBrony: Originally Posted By 03RN: So I got out today. There was a 3" shift to the right at 200 yards. I had cleaned the barrel when I got home from my canoe trip but I'm not sure that was it. I think on a carry handle the biggest weakness is the single screw attachment. With the rifle stock I also have the screw in the farthest forward hole in the cantilever mount further exasperating any leverage present. When I got home I tightened the screw 180 . Due to the rubber on the screw I didn't tighten it until I couldn't. It was very tight and not moveable by hand. You need a metal rod to turn it. I just didn't want to break it ![]() ![]() I think using the middle hole on a carbine it would be less of an issue. At 50 it was right on except the normal elevation difference. If I was just shooting my 8" steel I never would have noticed the shift. While I'm not happy I don't think it's an optic issue. Worst case scenario I put it on a carbine if just tightening it down a little and letting it settle a little bit doesn't fix it I could. It's just that it's a govt surplused FN upper that I really don't want to drill into. |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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https://instagram.com/_odiegreen_?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA==
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Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Ha! I meant the A2 specific mounting nut. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Originally Posted By 03RN: It's an A2 so I'm not worried about the carry handle getting loose ![]() Ha! I meant the A2 specific mounting nut. ![]() |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Originally Posted By 03RN: ![]() View Quote Yeah I could have worded it better. I’m on PTO and my buddy Jack Daniels came for an impromptu visit. You thread lock it though? I’d be partially reluctant to do so on a carry handle mount but there’s always a soldering iron if you need to remove it later. |
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https://instagram.com/_odiegreen_?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA==
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For those with the 1x and the 3x, any size difference of the reticle at normal eye relief?
I've got the 1x, and the reticle is good enough for close work, but small enough to my eyes I'd have problems at distance. Debating whether to put another 1x on my A2 carbine, or go to the 3x, or drop in an ACOG 4-32 of some flavor. TIA eta - I am scrolling through the thread incase someone posted images or something, it'll take me a while. edit 2 - only direct info I saw (may have missed a post or three) was on page 5, but no direct comparison pics. I'll likely get one to try. Might be another month or two. If there aren't comparison pics by then I'll do a quick set. Originally Posted By woolgar: I think so. Compared to the Micro 1x the reticle seems almost twice the size. It's easy to see the BDC dots, tho they still aren't illuminated, just the chevron and horseshoe. But the fact that I can see them means theyre actually usable vs the ranging ladder on the 1x. I dont have a vortex or burris to compare to, only the micro 1x, but like I said I was impressed enough to immediately pre-order the 7.62 version as well. I really think at this price point its a great compromise of clarity and weight savings to $$ ratio. To me the weight is the biggest factor and why I ordered these to begin with. I was kinda disappointed in how small the reticle is on the 1x, but that will just get delegated to a 10/22 now. Hopefully I can make it to the range this weekend and follow up. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Yeah I could have worded it better. I’m on PTO and my buddy Jack Daniels came for an impromptu visit. You thread lock it though? I’d be partially reluctant to do so on a carry handle mount but there’s always a soldering iron if you need to remove it later. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Originally Posted By 03RN: ![]() Yeah I could have worded it better. I’m on PTO and my buddy Jack Daniels came for an impromptu visit. You thread lock it though? I’d be partially reluctant to do so on a carry handle mount but there’s always a soldering iron if you need to remove it later. ![]() The knob is oval and it didn't turn. There's just a rubber washer. Because it's oval it's easy to tell it didn't move. I'm wondering if the surfaces aren't perfectly mated. Maybe a layer of electrical tape would help |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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Ofcourse there is a size difference from 1x to 3x. Think first focal plane reticle scope. The reticle gets bigger as the power goes up. I have both and can get you pictures through the optics but it will have to wait till after work tonight. I use the 1x as a reddot alternative since my uncorrected eyes make reddots a star. Have found out that the bigger the reddot, the less star effect it has so 6 moa dots work better for me.
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