User Panel
Posted: 8/29/2022 2:04:59 PM EDT
Now OFFICIAL Chainsaw Thread!
And post pics of your setup. Running all stock? Upgrades? Did you swap to a different bar? Chain? Also please stop by this thread, take part! Hold off on that upgrade and send money so the kids have one less thing to worry about for Christmas! Tis the season! Donate for the kids! |
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The GD told me I needed to purchase something called CHAPS if I plan on using a chainsaw. I had to Google what CHAPS were. I never knew you had to purchase special attire to run a chainsaw.
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Quoted: The GD told me I needed to purchase something called CHAPS if I plan on using a chainsaw. I had to Google what CHAPS were. I never knew you had to purchase special attire to run a chainsaw. View Quote Every seen what a saw will do to flesh when it kicks back ? I have not pretty . Chaps prevent hamburger |
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My saws are stock but Id like to fix that. Any suggestions on who to send an old 026 for woods porting? She could use just a bit more grunt.
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Quoted: The GD told me I needed to purchase something called CHAPS if I plan on using a chainsaw. I had to Google what CHAPS were. I never knew you had to purchase special attire to run a chainsaw. View Quote You don't have to, but you really should. Eye pro is also a recommeded thing. I have 18 stiches that wouldn't have happened if I had been wearing chaps. |
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Ms 400 is what I am using. It's an awesome saw that puts a smile on my face after years of running underpowered crap. I use a 20" and a 25" bar.
The lightweight bars would be nice, but I hate to replace mine while they still work. Yes, chaps are worth using. They are hot this time of the year, but it's better than the alternative. |
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I snaggled a 16" Craftsman gas 2 stroke chainsaw from Dirt cheap for $50 and then I found a Poulan Pro 16" on the side the road in a junk pile that all it needed was the main jet backed out a lil bit 2 stroke.
All stock, it holds it's value better when all stock. Albeit, first thing I do is take the stock chain off to store it along with the stock bar. Then I ass the same exact chain and bar but from the store. |
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Stihl MS180CBE-currently 16" bar, I have a 12" and chains hanging in the shop for when I wear out the last 16"
Stihl MS391-20" Both saws are stock. I use the 180 all the time for shit around the house, and some firewood. 391 is strictly firewood. |
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I have three.
2 MS461s, which are ported and their mufflers have been modified. One wears a 28" bar and is my "all around" saw. The other (which is more robustly ported) hangs a 32" bar nearly full time. The third is a 661 and it is by far my favorite saw. Wears a 32" or a 36" depending on the areas I am working in. Sadly, they're all in pieces on my bench getting a deep clean. |
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Stihl MS251 that is stock apart from usually running the more aggressive chain. I used it fair amount for cutting up a bunch of logs for a few years and it started getting really tough/impossible to start. Messed around with it for a while and took it to my local Ace hardware (where I bought it) and they ended up replacing some little part inside the air filter that is apparently prone to getting clogged. It runs better now but it still tough to get started. It also developed some kind of an exhaust leak which makes Nomex gloves necessary.
I’m not too thrilled with how difficult it can be to start but once warmed up it runs like a champ. I would complain but I used it pretty hard cutting up some heavy oak logs and ran it long and hard for a pretty basic entry consumer level saw. Running the expensive canned gas through it the whole time so likely not a gas issue. The more aggressive chain does make a noticeable difference when cutting. I keep a half dozen chains around because when I’m busy cutting I don’t wanna take time to sharpen them and some of the wood I cut will dull a chain surprisingly quickly. Wearing eye protection of some type is a must and I recommend chaps and heavy boots. No close calls but the chainsaw is the one outdoors tool which really deserves some respect. One other thing is that I recently borrowed a neighbors chain saw on a stick/pole trimmer and without the pole attached that little lightweight electric chainsaw is super handy. Gonna probably pick one up here at some point. |
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I have a Stihl MS271 with 16" and 18" bar, it cuts like butter, I love using this thing. I let a friend borrow it to cut down a bunch of trees on his property, he commented on how well it ran too.
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I'm out here right this moment clearing our property for a driveway and house site. I'm alone, and the nearest ER is 60 miles away.
Guaranteed I'm wearing chaps, gloves and a helmet. Would suck to bleed out in less than a minute. ETA to answer the question: I had a small Homelite for years, with a 14" bar (I think), it was good enough for around the house and it finally got worn out. I got this Stihl MS 250 last fall, this is the first time I've had it out. Lightyears ahead of the homeowner-style saw I had before. Plus I have the aforementioned Husky gloves and chaps, and a Stihl helmet/face shield/ear pro combo, and safety glasses. And steel toe boots. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Quoted: The GD told me I needed to purchase something called CHAPS if I plan on using a chainsaw. I had to Google what CHAPS were. I never knew you had to purchase special attire to run a chainsaw. View Quote Only if you, ya know, value your femoral artery. I'm hardly a safety sally, but protective chaps/pants and a face mask are kinda minimum for running a chainsaw. For those who don't want to volunteer for natural selection. ETA: In answering OPs question: I have three saws. A tiny Stihl (like beginner homeowner version), a mid-grade Husky, and then a Husky 562XP (with a spare 24" powermatch bar). The 562XP is still sitting in the box and really is only around in the event of some kind of natural disaster (which has occurred in my area) and I need something larger and more capable to get things going again. The mid-grade Husky gets most of the duties. I also arm-up with Haix Chainsaw boots, Pfanner pants and a jacket, and a Husqvarna helmet/mask. I can easily justify the cost because my hourly rate of not working (professional office job) is a lot higher than a few hundred dollars in protective gear. |
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makita/dolmar master race checking in. sugihara and tsumura bars
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MS 261. No mods but I do have 16” and 20” bars and chains.
Wear chaps most of the time but sometimes take chances when it is hot. I was cutting some smaller limbs out of an Elm tree today so I can mow under it without having to lean sideways. Pretty damn hot and humid so I did it in shorts and regular shoes. I was extra careful though especially since I was on an extension ladder. |
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Muff modded Stihl 200 rear handle, MMWS 261 and 461. Stihl es light bars on the last 2.
If interested in builders who do woods porting, visit https://opeforum.com/forums/chainsaws.33/ |
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Quoted: makita/dolmar master race checking in. sugihara and tsumura bars View Quote This. I have an "old" home Depot rental saw.(dcs6401) I bought it with the intention of putting the 88cc jug and piston on it but it runs like a raped ape with the 20" bar and full comp. semi chisel chain so I haven't messed with it. It even still has the muffler with the cat intact. I've thought about picking up a ~24" bar for it for when I run into the bigger stuff though. The sugihara lw bars look awesome, but I'd probably cry if I mangled one. Lol |
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Stihl 180, 271, 362 & 500i....all the powerheads are stock. If you plan to use the saw a lot, buy a pro series saw.
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Husqvarna 357xp 24" bar. Modded cylinder with larger exhaust and higher compression.
Husqvarna 372xp 28" bar. Modded exhaust. |
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Guess I'm the only Echo fan here.
Kind of "pro-sumer" grade, which is what 99% of users are. If you have a good dealer around. Not that you will need it. Like for a Stihl. |
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I currently have only a Stihl MS 170. It's a 16" that's done all I've asked of it, so far. I would like a larger, more powerful one, though. Maybe something in the 20" range. I'll definitely buy another Stihl.
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Quoted: Quoted: Husqvarna 357xp 24" bar. Modded cylinder with larger exhaust and higher compression. Husqvarna 372xp 28" bar. Modded exhaust. More details on this please. I am not close to them or I would take a picture. The 357xp I installed a 359 piston and cylinder. I also removed the head gasket and installed a thin bead of moto seal. The muffler is modded by drilling a large 1/2" or 3/4" hole in thr muffler and welding on a small extension tube to throw the exhaust out past the plastic. The 372xp has the standard square cut in the front muffler brace and a spark arrestor screen installed behind it. That is a huge improvement over stock. |
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Husky 460 w/ 24” sugi bar.
No mods for it that I know (fucking epa I guess) 90% of the time I wear chaps, helmet/ face shield and muffs always wear heavier boots. |
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What kind of wood and how much wood are you going to cut?
Budget? |
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Stihl: 18” MS 261, 16” MS290(for back up). Both are stock except for chain upgrades. The 261 is my favorite saw ever.
I cut my knee open from a slowing chain. Chaps are a must wear item now. |
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50 year old Homelite SXLAO I inherited from my grandfather. Factory 16" bar with an Oregon chain (and 2 Oregon professional chains in reserve) carb rebuild, solid state ignition chip, new starter spring and amsteel blue pull rope, custom handgaurd and felling teeth. Absolutely screams as it throws chunks of wood.
I'm back and forth on getting a "big bore" kit off ebay... I have enough projects though. |
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IMO, more important than which saw you get, is that you also own a few chains and something like this:
May or may not be made in China Very obviously made in China |
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Quoted: I imagine this one has been mod'd. But its a Husky.....they make saws for girls. https://i.imgur.com/Xq13WPV.jpg?1 View Quote Inkie or not she is damn sexy woman. |
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Quoted: And post pics of your setup. Running all stock? Upgrades? Did you swap to a different bar? Chain? View Quote Mostly stock. Three saws: Husky 550 XP Mk II. Running the OEM 18" bar but did swap in a 20" Oregon bar for a few months of work over the winter. Husky 572XP. Running the OEM 24" bar, but do swap in a 28" Husky bar on occasion. Not that I wanted an electric saw, but HD was clearing them out and it has the same battery as my leaf blower: EGO 18". All stock, but its OEM stuff is Oregon. The thing is surprisingly handy and convenient. |
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Quoted: IMO, more important than which saw you get, is that you also own a few chains and something like this: https://www.oregonproducts.com/medias/image-FOR-Grinder-310-120-IMG1-Blount-500Wx500H?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3w3Mjg0NDV8aW1hZ2UvanBlZ3xpbWFnZXMvaGE0L2g4Yi84OTExNTA1NzUyMDk0LmpwZ3wyMjkwZjg4OTNlOGM0YzM5OGI3YmZhMzE1MDhhMDZiOWM1ZmVlZTA2MDA1YmEzZTc0ZDMxNDJjMWY1MjQzYmVl May or may not be made in China Very obviously made in China View Quote IMO this Pferd or the Stihl is easier. https://www.pferd.com/us-en/products/new-products-and-innovations/chain-sharp-cs-x/ |
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Stihl 271 Farm Boss with 20" bar. Runs pretty well and cuts great with the aggressive chain. I was on a budget when I got it. I need to get a new bar as this one is a slight bit twisted from a branch pinching it. I usually make sure I have enough work to run a tank through it and then put it up dry.
I think the next saw I get is going to be a DeWalt battery saw to go with my tools. I have a shit-ton of small branches and smaller trees that I can use that for instead of getting the Stihl out. Save the bigger gas saw for the need. |
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Stihl. Many of their chains and bars are made in USA. Most made in Germany. No modifications needed. They run great.
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Makita 7900 bought new this past winter. Went with them because seemed like a good value and they haven't loaded it up with electronics.
20" bar, an inexpensive Archer bar and chain. Will be ordering a 32" bar soon, and a setup to do some milling. Will get a higher quality bar and chain for that, could use some recommendations. Will get a smaller saw down the road as well, that's just not quite at the top of the wish list yet, though my arms sure get a workout from doing everything with the 7900. I read a lot of people do some work on the exhaust for these, removing some emissions related stupid from the muffler to get some more power and cooler operating temp. |
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Quoted: IMO, more important than which saw you get, is that you also own a few chains and something like this: https://www.oregonproducts.com/medias/image-FOR-Grinder-310-120-IMG1-Blount-500Wx500H?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3w3Mjg0NDV8aW1hZ2UvanBlZ3xpbWFnZXMvaGE0L2g4Yi84OTExNTA1NzUyMDk0LmpwZ3wyMjkwZjg4OTNlOGM0YzM5OGI3YmZhMzE1MDhhMDZiOWM1ZmVlZTA2MDA1YmEzZTc0ZDMxNDJjMWY1MjQzYmVl May or may not be made in China Very obviously made in China View Quote I went with the Oregon model. Not cheap, but I can turn around chains very quickly |
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Attached File
My wife with the big saw. - Husqvarna 3120xp - opened up muffler - Husqvarna 390xp - ported muffler and velocity stack intake - Husqvarna 372xp OE - machined and ported - Husqvarna 550XP - stock - Echo 2511T - woods port and muffler mod |
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