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Posted: 1/30/2023 6:21:20 AM EST
[#1]
That city water is bad stuff to deal with. I don't have problems like that with my well water from good sandy aquifers. I just put a bucket under those slow leaks and my water seals off leaks like that in a couple of days.
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Posted: 1/30/2023 6:25:29 AM EST
[#2]
I wouldn't use a shark bite in that situation, especially prior to the main shut off. Not sure how well a pet crimp tool will work on the black service line coming in. Better off with a barbed fitting and clamp for the black service line. For the blue pen, they make all kind of pex adapters, then use the cinch or crimp ring. Maybe a 3/4" barbed x 3/4" MIP 90/w a 3/4" pex x 3/4" FIP adapter? They also failed to sleeve your water line where it penetrates the block wall. That will eventually cause problems.
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Posted: 1/30/2023 6:33:57 AM EST
[#3]
Oh boy. Get a 3/4 copper st L and an uponor sweat adapter. Turn off meter and your ball valve. Use a crescent wrench to disconnect shark bite. Use shop vac and suck all the water out. Sweat fittings on. Let cool and use your expansion tool to connect.
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Posted: 1/30/2023 6:39:01 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I bet thats HDPE pipe in copper tube size and not PEX which is why they used a sharkbite to transition. PEX fittings will not work. I'd buy the HDPE specific Ford fitting with male thread into a female PEX fitting. ETA: Looked at second picture, probably going to have to stick to the sharkbite as I doubt there's a HDPE Ford fitting in a 90, worth a look though. This, ditch the sharkbite. Source appropriate CTS Ford fitting. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 6:51:00 AM EST
[#5]
Delete
Misread the OP. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 7:00:26 AM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This, ditch the sharkbite. Source appropriate CTS Ford fitting. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I bet thats HDPE pipe in copper tube size and not PEX which is why they used a sharkbite to transition. PEX fittings will not work. I'd buy the HDPE specific Ford fitting with male thread into a female PEX fitting. ETA: Looked at second picture, probably going to have to stick to the sharkbite as I doubt there's a HDPE Ford fitting in a 90, worth a look though. This, ditch the sharkbite. Source appropriate CTS Ford fitting. Agree, probably easiest heavy duty connection. Ford, McDonald’ compression L. Probably cost $35 but it will outlast almost all other fittings. Don’t forget the stiffner for the pex.  Link |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 9:01:19 AM EST
[#7]
This will work with both Pex A and HDPE? Do I need a stiffener for HDPE?
Can you link the stiffener I need for the Pex? I buy from SH all the time, it's fairly local to me. I've never ran into HDPE here which is why this is foreign to me. I've done most everything else in this house zero issue but I know when to not just try to DIY something I have no experience with. 
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Posted: 1/30/2023 9:04:03 AM EST
[#8]
I'm telling you man wrap that thing up with like six rolls of duct tape
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Posted: 1/30/2023 9:09:22 AM EST
[#9]
Stiffer looks like this. I didn't see if you mentioned the size ie ?,¾,1"?
https://www.ferguson.com/product/ford-meter-box-50-series-34-x-1-3564-in-cts-dr-9-304-stainless-steel-insert-finsert51/_/R-28510 Edit to add: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Legend-Valve-313-404-3-4-CTS-Stainless-Steel-Insert-Stiffener-T-4500 |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 9:16:33 AM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This will work with both Pex A and HDPE? Do I need a stiffener for HDPE? Can you link the stiffener I need for the Pex? I buy from SH all the time, it's fairly local to me. I've never ran into HDPE here which is why this is foreign to me. I've done most everything else in this house zero issue but I know when to not just try to DIY something I have no experience with. My first response about sweating was because I thought you had copper coming through wall, it’s how we do it here… But yes, it will work with your black poly. Use stiffners in both. Just google 3/4 cts stiffner. Lowes and Home Depot carry them. They do carry pack joint fittings but doubt they would have an L. FYI, pex is also a hdpe. It’s just cross linked. You also may be able to use a pex crimp fitting on the black pipe, no experience using it. They usually sell barbed fittings for it. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 9:30:00 AM EST
[#11]
The last time GD did a plumbing thread they assured me shark bites were awesome.
GD said my 20 years experience as a plumber, licenses in 3 states and 10 years operating a plumbing service business wasn’t enough to trump their YouTube and lowes plumbing knowledge |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 10:19:47 AM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The last time GD did a plumbing thread they assured me shark bites were awesome. GD said my 20 years experience as a plumber, licenses in 3 states and 10 years operating a plumbing service business wasn't enough to trump their YouTube and lowes plumbing knowledge 
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Posted: 1/30/2023 10:28:02 AM EST
[#13]
The black pipe could be hdpe. You’re not going to want to crimp it if it is.
You need to put a barbed fitting into the hdpe. No heat to make it happen. Your shark bite was installed by a complete fucktard. No plumber should be installing one in that location and unsupported. The pipes angle and sideways force is likely why it’s leaking. If it were straighter and properly supported it wouldn’t be leaking. Also if that’s uponor blue piping you need to prepare for major failures. Clear uponor or colored pex a from another manufacturer is good to go. Personally I’d recommend you hire a plumber to install the barbed fitting with male pipe threads on one end into the hdpe. Ask them over the phone if they have to heat it up. If they say yes don’t hire them. Then have a threaded valve installed along with some real and proper support near the valve and fitting. Threaded rod alone isn’t enough as the distance from the wall is too far for it to really support it Imo. They can use threaded rod if they add a pipe and washers surrounding it which will greatly increase rigidity so when you monkey the ball valve around in the future without supporting the pipe you don’t break something. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 10:56:46 AM EST
[#14]
ost
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Posted: 1/30/2023 10:59:42 AM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Agree, probably easiest heavy duty connection. Ford, McDonald’ compression L. Probably cost $35 but it will outlast almost all other fittings. Don’t forget the stiffner for the pex. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/445788/56915535-30E3-4136-AD7A-AC97219194E0-2690964.jpg Link This is the correct fitting to use. Did you figure out why the sharkbite leaked yet? Sharkbites work for homeowner repairs but are never the best option and are usually installed incorrectly. Something to keep in mind if you ever repair pex with expandable fittings. The plumbing company I worked for was having issues on re-models and new constructions with leaks. We called uponor and they said you are suppose to let expandable fittings sit for 24 hours before turning water back on. Never had issues after doing that. I always used expandable where I could and crimp for quick repairs. Anyone else experience or have knowledge on this? |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 1:29:47 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is the correct fitting to use. Did you figure out why the sharkbite leaked yet? Sharkbites work for homeowner repairs but are never the best option and are usually installed incorrectly. Something to keep in mind if you ever repair pex with expandable fittings. The plumbing company I worked for was having issues on re-models and new constructions with leaks. We called uponor and they said you are suppose to let expandable fittings sit for 24 hours before turning water back on. Never had issues after doing that. I always used expandable where I could and crimp for quick repairs. Anyone else experience or have knowledge on this? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Agree, probably easiest heavy duty connection. Ford, McDonald’ compression L. Probably cost $35 but it will outlast almost all other fittings. Don’t forget the stiffner for the pex. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/445788/56915535-30E3-4136-AD7A-AC97219194E0-2690964.jpg Link This is the correct fitting to use. Did you figure out why the sharkbite leaked yet? Sharkbites work for homeowner repairs but are never the best option and are usually installed incorrectly. Something to keep in mind if you ever repair pex with expandable fittings. The plumbing company I worked for was having issues on re-models and new constructions with leaks. We called uponor and they said you are suppose to let expandable fittings sit for 24 hours before turning water back on. Never had issues after doing that. I always used expandable where I could and crimp for quick repairs. Anyone else experience or have knowledge on this? I have never heard that about uponor and have many times turned on water or pressure tested as soon as the blue or red line shows up. I’ve been assured from our rep there is no real wait time in 70f. If cold it definitely has to sit though. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 1:35:25 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Correct, black through the foundation is the water inlet. City water. I know how to shut it off, but it's at the street and is 4' in the ground and has a penta-head bolt on it, so I don't think the city wants me there.  No matter, I can do it, I've done it before.The house is less than three years old. I know people hate shark bite but damn, leaking this soon? I'd rather not have to deal with it again. Can you link me to the fittings that would have been used before shark bites came around enabling lazy builders?  Should have read further. I see you do have a shutoff slightly further up. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 2:31:25 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have never heard that about uponor and have many times turned on water or pressure tested as soon as the blue or red line shows up. I’ve been assured from our rep there is no real wait time in 70f. If cold it definitely has to sit though. I think I misunderstood then. The temperature explanation makes sense. This was winter and below freezing temps. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 2:34:11 PM EST
[#19]
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Posted: 1/30/2023 2:42:26 PM EST
[#20]
Um, your house is a 2020. Call your builder and tell him to get his fucking incompetent ass over to your house to fix your leaking plumbing. Sorry, but can't imagine what a shit show of shortcuts your house is if they are using sharkbite fittings on the fucking main water line. JFC.
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Posted: 1/30/2023 2:47:42 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Um, your house is a 2020. Call your builder and tell him to get his fucking incompetent ass over to your house to fix your leaking plumbing. Sorry, but can't imagine what a shit show of shortcuts your house is if they are using sharkbite fittings on the fucking main water line. JFC. 1 year warranty. I told them right away that some of their practices were shit like this and running all lights and receptacles on the same circuit and on 14AWG at that, among other things. I measure 12% voltage drop on one receptacle just due to the length of the run of wire and the fact that every receptacle is backstabbed. I need to rewire all receptacles and see if it helps but I run a laser printer or vacuum and all the lights in my house (LED) flicker in whichever room I'm in. It is frustrating. But that's what a volume builder gets you I guess. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 2:52:17 PM EST
[#22]
Male HDPE barbed 90 fitting
You need that in the right diameter and a couple hose clamps, then a pex female swivel adapter of the right size. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 3:16:30 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 1 year warranty. I told them right away that some of their practices were shit like this and running all lights and receptacles on the same circuit and on 14AWG at that, among other things. I measure 12% voltage drop on one receptacle just due to the length of the run of wire and the fact that every receptacle is backstabbed. I need to rewire all receptacles and see if it helps but I run a laser printer or vacuum and all the lights in my house (LED) flicker in whichever room I'm in. It is frustrating. But that's what a volume builder gets you I guess. Yikes. Well, luckily this is a very simple repair, although it will require you to purchase some tools possibly. First thing I would try is to loosen the mounts holding all of your pipes to the wall, and solidly grab the pipe and the bottom of the fitting and mushing them together more. Its very possible that the pipe just isn't fully seated in the fitting. Its hard to recommend replacement because I have no idea what that black pipe is. If its poly pipe you are going to have to get a barbed fitting to an NPT adapter and go from there. And you run into all sorts of issues finding fittings that are allowable on potable water systems instead of just for irrigation. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 3:33:55 PM EST
[#24]
Leave it to GD to tell OP he needs a $120 fitting when a $1.50 barbed fitting with a hose clamp is sufficient.
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Posted: 1/30/2023 3:55:56 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Um, your house is a 2020. Call your builder and tell him to get his fucking incompetent ass over to your house to fix your leaking plumbing. Sorry, but can't imagine what a shit show of shortcuts your house is if they are using sharkbite fittings on the fucking main water line. JFC. 2020 was 3 years ago. We build nice custom homes with a 1 year warranty. If someone called us with a leak like this we would probably go fix it but we certainly aren't obligated to. |
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Posted: 1/30/2023 7:17:00 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm telling you man wrap that thing up with like six rolls of duct tape Ya, A couple months ago we all bought 12 miles of vinyl tape for $3. Didn't you? Just kidding. 
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Posted: 1/30/2023 7:38:41 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Leave it to GD to tell OP he needs a $120 fitting when a $1.50 barbed fitting with a hose clamp is sufficient. $0.05 worm gear the only thing preventing your water main from going wide open in your basement? No thanks. |
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Posted: 1/31/2023 3:27:10 PM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: $0.05 worm gear the only thing preventing your water main from going wide open in your basement? No thanks. Probably 90% of well installations in Ohio are sporting HDPE with barbs and hose clamps. If you use a harbor freight sourced clamp, that is on you. We use aircraft grade stainless clamps. |
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Posted: 1/31/2023 3:41:05 PM EST
[#29]
Compression > barb all day, every day.
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Posted: 1/31/2023 4:26:14 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Probably 90% of well installations in Ohio are sporting HDPE with barbs and hose clamps. If you use a harbor freight sourced clamp, that is on you. We use aircraft grade stainless clamps. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: $0.05 worm gear the only thing preventing your water main from going wide open in your basement? No thanks. Probably 90% of well installations in Ohio are sporting HDPE with barbs and hose clamps. If you use a harbor freight sourced clamp, that is on you. We use aircraft grade stainless clamps. Using a hose clamp outside is different than using one inside. And a pack joint L is like $30. |
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Posted: 1/31/2023 9:43:07 PM EST
[#31]
@DancingPenguins
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Posted: 1/31/2023 9:56:37 PM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The black pipe could be hdpe. You’re not going to want to crimp it if it is. You need to put a barbed fitting into the hdpe. No heat to make it happen. Your shark bite was installed by a complete fucktard. No plumber should be installing one in that location and unsupported. The pipes angle and sideways force is likely why it’s leaking. If it were straighter and properly supported it wouldn’t be leaking. Also if that’s uponor blue piping you need to prepare for major failures. Clear uponor or colored pex a from another manufacturer is good to go. Personally I’d recommend you hire a plumber to install the barbed fitting with male pipe threads on one end into the hdpe. Ask them over the phone if they have to heat it up. If they say yes don’t hire them. Then have a threaded valve installed along with some real and proper support near the valve and fitting. Threaded rod alone isn’t enough as the distance from the wall is too far for it to really support it Imo. They can use threaded rod if they add a pipe and washers surrounding it which will greatly increase rigidity so when you monkey the ball valve around in the future without supporting the pipe you don’t break something. What’s up with uponor blue? |
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Posted: 1/31/2023 11:02:56 PM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Using a hose clamp outside is different than using one inside. And a pack joint L is like $30. We use barb and clamp till we get to the tank tee. Been putting them inside for years. No failures yet. |
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