User Panel
Posted: 1/1/2010 4:45:12 AM EDT
So the ex-GF (she's now advanced to fiancee status ) and I are beginning to think about moving. She lives in GA, I live in TN, and she wants to stay close to the parents. This means either building, buying, or renting another house. The market's great for buying, but I'm intrigued by the idea of renting while we build our own.
I know that it's possible to build a log home cheaper than a traditional house, if you build carefully. What I do NOT know is how to decide between different log methods (butt/pass, canadian chinkless, scandanavian chinkless, square-cut logs, etc, etc) and would like some advice from anyone who has ever built or bought or lived in a log home as to which method to use. I'm starting from scratch here - any help or advice is appreciated. February 1 update: still considering this. The Fiancee is more interested now. You guys who built whole-log cabins (butt-and-pass or chinkless), what diameter logs did you start with? |
|
My first pice of advice....before fiance moves on to wife status is get a pre-nup....
As for the cabin, can't help you there but hope you get the home of your dreams. |
|
My neighbors in Maine have a log cabin. They told me the one maintenance issue that was annoying is having to re-pack the insulating material between logs, as for some reason there's always a small amount of shifting going on, resulting in air gaps always forming somewhere. Gaps may be a bigger issue in Maine than down south.
|
|
|
OK I live in South Carolina, so you probably have those wood boring bees in Tennessee too, that look like Bumble Bees correct? The log Cabin will be made fron either white pine or yellow pine timbers correct?
Be prepeared to work your ass off maintaining it with stain or coating it with a perservative at least every other year to keep from getting eaten to the ground. If you're young you're probaly up to living the log cabin fantasy, if you are older you will be kickng yourself each day wondering why you did this to yourself.... If your future wife is also High Maintenance and between the both of the two "Projects" you wont have anytime to enjoy yourself. My advice is, dont do the log cabin, go brick, cedar or vinyl for the exterior finish |
|
Quoted:
So the ex-GF (she's now advanced to fiancee status ) and I are beginning to think about moving. She lives in GA, I live in TN, and she wants to stay close to the parents. This means either building, buying, or renting another house. The market's great for buying, but I'm intrigued by the idea of renting while we build our own. I know that it's possible to build a log home cheaper than a traditional house, if you build carefully. What I do NOT know is how to decide between different log methods (butt/pass, canadian chinkless, scandanavian chinkless, square-cut logs, etc, etc) and would like some advice from anyone who has ever built or bought or lived in a log home as to which method to use. I'm starting from scratch here - any help or advice is appreciated. Ask the beekeeper. |
|
Survival forum discusses this pretty often I would check there.
|
|
ARowner
First, Happy new year. And I miss the hell out of TN. Second, my advice is to really think about it. When we built our first house, in Lexington TN, we were seriously considering building a log cabin, so I started researching. I ended up talking to several owners of some very nice LC's. I was pretty surprised to find out that most were not happy with their decisions. Seems it is not easy to build a true LC that is comparable to a standard house. Most complained of drafts, etc.. I am sure some are happy with them, but it seems many wish they had just built a "regular" house with a facade that looks like wood. We went traditional. Best of luck in whatever you do amigo. |
|
My buddy owns a log home, since I was contemplating a log home I asked him about maintenance. His advice was, "Don't do it!"
He then told me about needing to apply stain/preservative or whatever you call it once a year for the first two years, then once every 2-3 years after that. More exposed areas may need it more frequently. He explained that bugs are a constant problem because the little cracks in the logs create a super highway to the interior and he has to go on a yearly hunt to caulk the cracks. He had to rechink once, and that cost a fair amount. Refinishing the interior after 14 years or was much more of a pain than just painting. Surprisingly he said settling hadn't been much of an issue for him, but I know it is always a concern. This from a guy who has had the house 20+ years. I listened. |
|
What sort of homes are you guys referring to?
I hear a lot of complaints about kit homes, especially from long-term owners. Apparently there is a huge difference - huge - between a home built butt-and-pass from full-sized logs, versus a kit built with trimmed or squared logs, etc, etc. |
|
As a home builder, do not build a log home. There are alot of maintenance headaches especially when the wood stringers start to sag and during the contracting/expansion phases. I have seen one house that has an attached 2 car garage and the log going across the door bowed over 3 inches. I would build a normal type of house with real insulation and apply a fake log cabin siding that is like the real thing
|
|
Ok you get past the kit home controversy, you still have the exterior finish situation to deal with...if you're prepared to being up on scaffolding like a bill board worker all the time, then go for it...just dont plummet to your death while swatting at those wood boring bumble bees like they were coming at you lik a Nolan Ryan , high-inside curve ball......... with that handy paint stirrer you no doubt will have nearby.
|
|
Quoted:
As a home builder, do not build a log home. There are alot of maintenance headaches especially when the wood stringers start to sag and during the contracting/expansion phases. I have seen one house that has an attached 2 car garage and the log going across the door bowed over 3 inches. I would build a normal type of house with real insulation and apply a fake log cabin siding that is like the real thing Excellent advice. |
|
Here are some links I found while looking into building one. I will do a cabin someday but not a house.
complete guide to building log homes log home forum log joinery building a log cabin in Alaska build your own log cabin |
|
My uncle built one... and from what he went through.... just don't.
If they were a worth while idea, we wouldn't have more modern things. Tons of upkeep, unless it is a "fake glue on" log cabin. (But from your points, this one won't be cheaper.) |
|
I like mine, its square logs (6x12). Its a one story so I wouldnt have the up stair floor sagging( they do) It is 32' wide so I used manufactured trusses so I wont have any load supporting walls that wont schrink like the logs do. I lived in a log house with round logs for 23 yrs. It was built in 1979-1980. The technology wasnt there as it is today i.e, letting the wood age then kiln dry (which pulls moisture out of the cells) and mine was Borat treated to "aid" in repelling bugs. I used the good sealer from Sherman Williams and that was 4yrs ago. If I spray water on the logs it still beads up. I have been in my own for 4 years. I have a small water leak only when the rain is coming from the south in one of my windows. Thats my fault... I paid extra to have a guy Hewn the sides of the logs to give them an rustic look. That makes the sides not have any flat surfaces and it hard to get a good seal. Like I said, thats my fault. My logs have a double tongue and grove and do not require chinking( as most if not all factory logs dont) Last month my electric bill in NW Georgia was $71 bucks, the month before that was $44. I dont regret anything except the hewning. I read three books on how to buid a log house and I built it myself. I always kept in mind that the house settles up to 1.5".
|
|
I built a 5400 sq ft log cabin in the Rocky mtns. Easy? No but it was my first one.
Use 8" D logs with a weatherstrip type sealer between them and butt/pass for speed. Don't frame the windows until the roof is on and everything dries. Use a nice colored caulk between the logs on th inside to duplicate chinking. seal the exterior with a really good product after the logs are dried. Seal the interior to help keep it clean. Mine got subjected to rocky mtn winters AND NM desert sun. Temps got below 0 regularly at 7400' too I'll build another one someday bowing logs is caused by dufuses who don't know how to build a log house. I used a 20' log over each of the 2 car garage doors and they didn't bow. I had another spanning a 8' high 12' wide Pella window assy. It didn't bow either |
|
Quoted: So the ex-GF (she's now advanced to fiancee status ) and I are beginning to think about moving. She lives in GA, I live in TN, and she wants to stay close to the parents. This means either building, buying, or renting another house. The market's great for buying, but I'm intrigued by the idea of renting while we build our own. I know that it's possible to build a log home cheaper than a traditional house, if you build carefully. What I do NOT know is how to decide between different log methods (butt/pass, canadian chinkless, scandanavian chinkless, square-cut logs, etc, etc) and would like some advice from anyone who has ever built or bought or lived in a log home as to which method to use. I'm starting from scratch here - any help or advice is appreciated. I have to admit I don't know a whole lot about building log cabins relative to cost, but what about maintenance,upkeep and resale verses a standard home? |
|
DH and I considered this idea for a while and dropped it due to the maintenance issues. Our next home is going to be our last home (we've already bought the land), and we'll be leaving it in a pine box. We didn't want to deal with re-treating and chinking the logs every few years as we age.
Instead, it looks like we're going with a timber frame home. That way we can still have modern materials and methods used to build out the exterior walls, with the resulting improvements in energy efficiency and ease of maintenance, while keeping a rustic look on the inside. |
|
Some of the new log homes have logs pressure treated with borax and other flame retardent that helps in keeping insects and mildew out of the log..
A sealer can also be involved that last for years(20 or more) This helps prevent warping and cracking http://www.nhloghomes.com/FAQ's.htm#10._Are_my_logs_treated_before_delivery_ |
|
Known about 3 people in this area that had bugs or issues with the wood which required the homes to be destroyed. No insurance money was paid and they were out that money. I would say NOOOOOOO.
|
|
My advice to you is for you to go lie down and wait until that urge passes.
CJ |
|
Quoted:
Known about 3 people in this area that had bugs or issues with the wood which required the homes to be destroyed. No insurance money was paid and they were out that money. I would say NOOOOOOO. Why are there log homes and barns that have been around since the 1700s? |
|
Don't do it. A fellow I work with ended up insulating his and wrapping it in vinyl siding. It required constant repacking and on the windy ridge he lived on, when it rained the wind pushed the water through. He said he would buy a single wide before he ever lived in another log cabin.
|
|
Quoted:
... I would build a normal type of house with real insulation and apply a fake log cabin siding that is like the real thing +1 |
|
Quoted:
Don't do it. A fellow I work with ended up insulating his and wrapping it in vinyl siding. It required constant repacking and on the windy ridge he lived on, when it rained the wind pushed the water through. He said he would buy a single wide before he ever lived in another log cabin. Because the dumbass that built it did not seal between the logs right? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Don't do it. A fellow I work with ended up insulating his and wrapping it in vinyl siding. It required constant repacking and on the windy ridge he lived on, when it rained the wind pushed the water through. He said he would buy a single wide before he ever lived in another log cabin. Because the dumbass that built it did not seal between the logs right? Don't get all butt hurt because everybody else doesn't think it's a good idea to build a log cabin. There are better options for investing money into a living abode. I didn't build my friends cabin, I do know that it wouldn't keep water out no matter what he did. I also know this fellow is one hell of a millwright/mechanic/DIYer. He installed his own wood burning furnace, including the piping under the entire cabin (for the heated water) and has experienced zero problems. His word is good enough for me, and if he says don't get involved in one I would believe him over some butt hurt guy on a discussion forum. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Don't do it. A fellow I work with ended up insulating his and wrapping it in vinyl siding. It required constant repacking and on the windy ridge he lived on, when it rained the wind pushed the water through. He said he would buy a single wide before he ever lived in another log cabin. Because the dumbass that built it did not seal between the logs right? Don't get all butt hurt because everybody else doesn't think it's a good idea to build a log cabin. There are better options for investing money into a living abode. I didn't build my friends cabin, I do know that it wouldn't keep water out no matter what he did. I also know this fellow is one hell of a millwright/mechanic/DIYer. He installed his own wood burning furnace, including the piping under the entire cabin (for the heated water) and has experienced zero problems. His word is good enough for me, and if he says don't get involved in one I would believe him over some butt hurt guy on a discussion forum. But he couldn't figure out what people knew 500 yrs ago? |
|
I have a 25x32, 2-story log cabin, built in 1995, in upstate PA. I didn't build it; the guy who now lives next door did (long story). It was built with wood from the prperty (40 wooded acres), and is a little unusual for a log home.
When I get some time I'll post additional details and pictures. |
|
Quoted:
Whats with the e-pissing match? Well, I built one in 2000 and spent $300,000 on it. It turned out great, especially with the 24' ceilings 16' windows in the entry. I sold it for $500,000 in 2006 as can be documented through courthouse tax records. It can be done and has been done.... by me! |
|
Quoted:
Whats with the e-pissing match? Not one, he seemed upset that others didn't like what he did. Oh well. |
|
Keep in mind that a log home must have a tune-up every couple years to keep your doors and windows square. It takes maintenance all the time. They are not like a framed house, not at all.
|
|
The two main issues with log homes are shrinking of logs and weather rot. Just make sure you have enough over-hang on your roof to protect the log walls and use poplar logs from the 1800's. Simple. BTDT.
|
|
Quoted: Quoted: Known about 3 people in this area that had bugs or issues with the wood which required the homes to be destroyed. No insurance money was paid and they were out that money. I would say NOOOOOOO. Why are there log homes and barns that have been around since the 1700s? Probably because of how/where they are getting the logs/treating them. My guess is they are going cheap somewhere to make extra money and this is happening. |
|
I have one, you just have to go around every year before winter and caulk in the corners and look for gaps/checks that open up etc. Every 3-4 years lather on some sealant. It's not that bad. More maintenance than a vinyl sided house but well worth it, especially if you are a DIY'er. I built mine like a regular stick built but the first floor exterior walls are logs, all my interior and roof system framing is standard, and I drywalled all the interior walls and ceilings. It makes it way easier and cheaper to do the mechanicals, wiring etc.
Do tons of research, the info is all out there. |
|
I live in a square log cabin in CT. I hope you like spiders. Big ones
|
|
If you are thinking of building your own spend some time reading here: http://www.loghomebuilders.org/
I attended the two day class a number of years ago, it is well worth taking. The class was held at Skip Ellsworth's home in Monroe, WA (his log home was very impressive) The course is mostly lecture with slides and video, there was some hands on demonstration outside on the second day. They cover a lot of info in two days and explore all of the pros and cons. If you love log homes and are looking to build or buy your own I highly recommend you take the course. |
|
The fastest growing sector in the log home industry is repair.
If you are not fastidious about maintenance then don't. If you are, go for it and build it with substantial overhangs everywhere you can to keep it out of the sun. |
|
Quoted:
If you are thinking of building your own spend some time reading here: http://www.loghomebuilders.org/ I attended the two day class a number of years ago, it is well worth taking. The class was held at Skip Ellsworth's home in Monroe, WA (his log home was very impressive) The course is mostly lecture with slides and video, there was some hands on demonstration outside on the second day. They cover a lot of info in two days and explore all of the pros and cons. If you love log homes and are looking to build or buy your own I highly recommend you take the course. I'm familiar with that site and was really hoping someone would offer an opinion on it. I didn't want to bring it up in the OP because I figured (from what I've read) it could derail the thread. Anyway, I'd love to hear your thoughts on why the butt-and-pass method is best - oh, and how does Mr. Ellsworth recommend that you chink your logs? |
|
Consider this a Tag.....I live in a One bedroom handbuilt log cabin and its spectacular for me.
|
|
Quoted:
My neighbors in Maine have a log cabin. They told me the one maintenance issue that was annoying is having to re-pack the insulating material between logs, as for some reason there's always a small amount of shifting going on, resulting in air gaps always forming somewhere. Gaps may be a bigger issue in Maine than down south. I have a relative who built one. They are the biggest crock in home building today. They cost about 1.5-2x as much per sq. foot as more traditional stick built, require an ungodly amount of maintenance, and leak a lot of air on top of being hard to insulate. He has said a few times it was the biggest mistake he's ever made. |
|
I helped build one a few years ago. I mainly built the roof and surrounding porch. Its was very labor intensive and took me and a few other carpenters quite a few weekends to complete. It was a 12/12 pitch with 26' 2"X12" rafters and 6"X8" oak collar ties. We built two dormers and the wrap around porch. The fellow that built the structure wasn't a carpenter and was in WAY over his head. I made LOTS of cash on that job! I have a real nice Remington 700 CDL with Leupold scope and a S&W 1911 to show for it!
ETA; I don't have pictures, but I may run out and take a few pictures tomorrow. |
|
Have you considered the two-car-garage-with-apartment-above option to live in while building your home? When the home is done it's the garage and guest accommodations.
Not necessarily a log structure...just a suggestion to consider if you're going to build a place and want to phase the construction to defer capital expenditure and move onto site earlier. example |
|
Quoted:
I built a 5400 sq ft log cabin in the Rocky mtns. Easy? No but it was my first one. Use 8" D logs with a weatherstrip type sealer between them and butt/pass for speed. Don't frame the windows until the roof is on and everything dries. Use a nice colored caulk between the logs on th inside to duplicate chinking. seal the exterior with a really good product after the logs are dried. Seal the interior to help keep it clean. Mine got subjected to rocky mtn winters AND NM desert sun. Temps got below 0 regularly at 7400' too I'll build another one someday bowing logs is caused by dufuses who don't know how to build a log house. I used a 20' log over each of the 2 car garage doors and they didn't bow. I had another spanning a 8' high 12' wide Pella window assy. It didn't bow either pics?? |
|
Quoted:
Have you considered the two-car-garage-with-apartment-above option to live in while building your home? When the home is done it's the garage and guest accommodations. From my saved sites: http://www.amazingplans.com/catalog.php?action=124&item_id=15708 |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Have you considered the two-car-garage-with-apartment-above option to live in while building your home? When the home is done it's the garage and guest accommodations. From my saved sites: http://www.amazingplans.com/catalog.php?action=124&item_id=15708 http://www.amazingplans.com/viewimg.php?item_id=15708&image=picture AWESOME!!! Put a nice wood burning stove in the garage/workshop, run the pipe up through the living area and it would be so sweet. Nice deck and everything. |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.