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Trimmed the finger grooves off a few glocks, cut down a FSB.
no barrel work though |
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A guy I used to work with had an old Ballester Molina with a barrel so shot out it looked like a shotgun bore.
He picked up a barrel at a gun show, but the feed ramp was all jacked off to one side, about 20 degrees from where it should have been. "No problem", he thought, and whipped out his trusty round file. He brought me the pistol at work the next day wrapped in a shop towel, and asked if I thought I could unfuck it. It now had M4 feed ramps, which is no good at all on a single stack .45acp. I told him I'd do my best, but I couldn't promise anything. I actually got it squared away and polished up to the point that it would feed anything I tried hand cycling through it. Runs like a top to this day. |
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Had to open up my DD upper's rear takedown pin hole. It was so tight I had to tap in the pin with a hammer and punch it out. A little gentle sanding and it's perfect. No play at all and it works like it should.
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Dehorn the lugs in the barrel extension of my blackout, wood stock inletting and receiver bedding work.
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This guy builds wooden model guns with his Dremel... can he get honorable mention?
https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Wooden-AK/5-2133028/ |
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Cut a couple of those god awful AK muzzle devices off bushmaster AR uppers back in the day.
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Ehhhh..... you're really grasping at straws here. Try a 25-cent trigger job on that Glock XXL. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I used a dremel to remove a bit of kydex from a holster. Does that count? Try a 25-cent trigger job on that Glock XXL. I'm a simple man with simple tastes |
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I used one to cut vents in a Saiga 12 handguard. Came out OK. Used a ball-end cutter to cut reliefs for proper plunger tube staking on my Kimber 1911. Came out great. Also various small polishing jobs here and there. If you don't do all "Bubba" a Dremel can be pretty useful.
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I successfully Dre-milled the auto sear cut outs in a non-mil spec AR-15/M16 upper receiver so that I could mount the upper on M16 lowers. Pretty straight forward.
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The trigger on the 19X is actually very, very nice. I have no complaints with it honestly. All of my other Glock's have 3.5lb connectors and they are very nice as well. I'm a simple man with simple tastes View Quote |
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Yes.
A Dremel with a plastic bristled brush will not damage a firearm's finish and is a great way to get gunk of of internal firearms parts. I have also used one, in a pinch, to slightly widen a FCP on a 0% lower that needed just a hair more room to fit the trigger. I was not going to put that back on the mill for what I could do in 2 minutes with a little drum sander and touch up with paint where nobody would ever see it. Now, have I customized a firearm with a Dremel? No. No I haven't. |
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Polished the feed ramp on a LLama .45, actually worked a lot better after that.
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Go ahead, tell me it's almost as nice as a tuned 1911 trigger. I dare you. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The trigger on the 19X is actually very, very nice. I have no complaints with it honestly. All of my other Glock's have 3.5lb connectors and they are very nice as well. I'm a simple man with simple tastes |
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Opened up the inside of a G rail so it would fit on my mega billet upper. Worked perfectly.
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Cratex bits and those little buffer heads are great for smoothing lever guns.
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Yes.
Polishing feed ramps on my 1911's. ETA: I also used one to remove some tooling marks on a 1911 slide I was re-building. |
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Oh yeah. Building an AK-74 and didn’t check the fit of the gas block on the barrel before trying to press it on. And it got stuck. Insanely stuck. Finally resolved to cut it off and get a replacement.
In my enthusiasm, I cut the gas block and left cuts on the barrel as well. Thus ending my desire to ever again build an AK |
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Friend and me cut a front sight base down into a low profile gas block.
All I can think of, and I really hope that was it. Jay |
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I had two pre-ban Colt Sporters with sear blocks, both California Registered Assault Weapons. I wanted to remove or trim them so that I could install Geisselle trigger groups and use a standard bolt carrier.
Adco does not accept lower receivers from California for this work. Ken Elmore no longer does this work. I took it to my local machine shop and they tried but the sear block was too hard and they gave up. So I purchased a StewMac router base for my Dremel, made a jig to support the router attachment, and used a Dremel CBN (cubic boron nitride) metal-cutting rotary tool cut-off wheel to trim the top off of the sear block. The CBN tool cut through the hardened sttel in well under 5 minutes each. It worked perfectly. I am very happy with the results. Before: After: Attached File Attached File I have also polished a lot of Glock and Advantage Arms feed ramps. |
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I just remembered that I have.
Drilled a lanyard hole in my XD45. Turned out okay. Attached File That’s about as far as I’m willing to go. |
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Lots of times...
Cut the underlug of a Colt Officer's Model slide to accept a reverse guide rod plug. Easy stuff. Recently cut the factory front sight out of my XD slide but left a small smiley that is now covered by the new sight. Took sharp edges off of many blued and stainless guns. Cut off bayonet lug on my SKS . |
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Use it on a trigger job on my AR's. Polish. Made the stock stuff way better than it was.
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Yep, trimmed the ears on a G rail to fit my billet receiver. Came out horrible but its not visible so I don't really care.
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I own a foredom, does that count? Used it many of times on guns.
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LOL.....Too many times to count.
Just yesterday I used it to shape a Magpul grip to a LR-308. There was a 1/16th "ledge" where it met the trigger guard that needed to be contoured. A couple passes with a sanding drum and a file for final fitting and it's GTG. |
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I bought a blem Beretta 92FS slide for my 92S. I had to disable the firing pin block by reshaping it with a Dremel.
Although I disabled a safety mechanism, it's no less safe than a stock 92S, which has no firing pin block provisions. This isn't something I would have intentionally planned from the start. It was a special case of finding a firearm that was compatible with my big stash of PT-92 magazines (which have the heel-release cut), then wishing it had better sights, then finding a blem slide on Beretta USA's store. Buying a used 92F or 92FS is definitely better financial choice, but I have a heel-release quasi-92FS that uses magazines I already have. |
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Undercut TG and remove finger grooves on a gen3 19
Cut off FSB on a 6920 Cut off FSB & GB on a romy 74 Polishing the grooves on take down pins De milling many AK parts kits polishing P80rails probably a ton more I cant remember |
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I pretty obviously used a Dremel to build this one: http://www.feinsteinproject.org/loes/effortlyndon/22LrUpperInstalled.JPG Sharpie works well on bare aluminum. View Quote |
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I pretty obviously used a Dremel to build this one: http://www.feinsteinproject.org/loes/effortlyndon/22LrUpperInstalled.JPG Sharpie works well on bare aluminum. |
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I have used one many times...buffer bit with some compound to polish parts. Have made feed ramps look like mirrors, trigger disconnectors nice and smooth for an effortless release that you dont feel coming, removing light rust, etc.
Have never used one to remove metal, wood, or plastic from a gun. |
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Glocks get the polishing wheel in all the right places. If you understand how the parts work together
ARs will hit trigger parts with polishing wheel. Also polish the BCG since all mine are nickel boron and yes it makes cleaning much easier 1911 trigger bar gets the wheel and feed ramp gets the cloth bullet |
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Yes. My 1911 had extended ambit safety on both sides. It kept getting caught on stuff and flipped to fire. Took dremel and cut extension off right side, no more problems.
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