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Well, here's my take. I'm not a knife fighter, and having cut the shit out of myself many times, have no inclination to be one. That said, I've broken dozens of nice folders at work. I've not broken a single fixed blade at work or camping. If I wanted a people sticker I'd be 100% certain to get a fixed blade.
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this has been with me for decades http://i51.tinypic.com/344xw0y.jpg http://i52.tinypic.com/29gbhug.jpg seriously, that is an awesome fighting knife what are the dimensions on it? just curious |
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A Randall 1-7, just a classic piece of Americana. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z120/planejanel/Photo-0147.jpg Jane You have good taste. |
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Quoted: Quoted: If you want a "fighting knife" you want a fixed blade. No such thing as a folding fighting knife, IMO. Agreed. +1 Gerber Mark II /thread |
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I'm gonna have to be talked out of this knife. Grayman warrior 5.5 http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af4/neoathkeeper/dscn0022b.jpg It's a little pricey, but I've bought cheap before. "Buy Once....." still buy a KA-BAR same blade length it just aint as pretty and its a quarter of the cost |
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"Don't bring a knife to a gunfight"
BTW, all fights are gunfights. |
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http://www.agrussell.com/boker-applegate-fairbairn/p/BO-AF11/ Applegate~Fairbairn the first name in fighting knives +1000 It has a great kydex sheath that holds the blade in well but is easy to remove. It has a belt loop. There is also a rubber loop that goes around the handle if you want it secured even more so. Unfortunately, there are no nice pictures showing both the knife and the sheath: It has everything you want in a 'fighting' knife: 1) Blade length of 6". It is long enough to reach organs but not so long it becomes unwieldy. 2) Blade is double edged which creates more severe wounds since it cuts on both edges on its way in and out, and it's more difficult to defend against since you can't grab the blade as easily. 3) The blade is thicker/wider than the traditional WWII Fairbairn-Sykes knife which makes it less likely to break. 4) The handle is easy to grip and won't slip easily when wet. It does come with a version that has partial serrations on one side. While I do not use this as a utility knife, I personally prefer the one that comes with the serrations. They do cut rope, fabric, etc. more easily than the regular edge. I highly recommend this as an excellent fixed-blade fighting knife. ETA: Sorry, I meant to say do not use as a utility knife. |
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http://graymanknives.com/grax.html Isn't that the guy that was posing as former R-SAS? Mike Ajax? |
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http://graymanknives.com/grax.html Isn't that the guy that was posing as former R-SAS? Mike Ajax? I don't like his grinds. |
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http://graymanknives.com/grax.html Isn't that the guy that was posing as former R-SAS? Mike Ajax? any more info so i can look into it |
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A Randall 1-7, just a classic piece of Americana. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z120/planejanel/Photo-0147.jpg Jane I like the Randals and some of the SOG bowie offerings. You could pick up a Sealpup Elite to try the design out before committing to a bigger purchase. |
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http://www.agrussell.com/boker-applegate-fairbairn/p/BO-AF11/ Applegate~Fairbairn the first name in fighting knives I have a few of those. |
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A Randall 1-7, just a classic piece of Americana. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z120/planejanel/Photo-0147.jpg Jane I'll see your Randall and raise you an Ek Bowie... http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z13/foxherb53/FOXHERB53/PICS003.jpg I've loved them since the 80s when I'd see them at gun shows. I have two now, brand new, off eBay. So, OP: In my opinion a real fighting knife isn't a folder. |
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How about a Finnish Puukko
The Ranger Puukko was designed by Captain J.P. Peltonen and heavily tested and approved by Nordic, US and UN troops. The hand forged Teflon coated blade is an impressive 5mm in thickness.
Leather sheath features: Innovative locking system, strong 3 mm leather, protective inner liner. THE RANGER PUUKKO IS ALSO AVAILABLE WITH THE BRASS FINNISH LION EMBLEM ON THE LEATHER SHEATH FOR AN ADDITIONAL $19.95. Product Details: * Blade: 6" Hand Forged Carbon Steel, Teflon Coated * Handle: 5" Tempered Rubber * Sheath: 3mm Leather, Locking Sheath * Item ID: JPM95 |
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A Randall 1-7, just a classic piece of Americana. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z120/planejanel/Photo-0147.jpg Jane I'll see your Randall and raise you an Ek Bowie... http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z13/foxherb53/FOXHERB53/PICS003.jpg I see your Ek, and raise you 3 of my Model 14 Randall Made Knives: |
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Fixed blade or folder? And why. I have three Benchmade folders now that I use. The barrage is my EDC. This would be something that goes with my first line gear. I don't even know why I want one, but you know how it is. If your looking to have this as a defensive knife that your going to carry.....you want a folder. Fixed bladed are of course great, but not really handy to carry concealed without special scabbards. First thing to understand is that a "fighting knife" is any knife you have on hand in a fight. And while having a Randall 14 is like a 1911, and a folder like my favorite the Kasper folding fighter is like a S&W 36......You have to ask which are you going to have when you need it. |
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Get a tomahawk. Trust me. ETA: If not a tomahawk, there's a lot of cool fixed blades out there. ETA2: I have alot of incomplete thoughts. I have both a SOG tomahawk, and Blackhawk Nightedge on my firstline gear. I'll just go ahead and quote this post, instead of typing all that. |
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For a straight forward fighting knife, fixed would be the way to go. For a knife you can just as easily take anywhere with you, and in a pinch use to protect yourself, you need a folder. Me, I like utility. My little buck pinknife is good and all, but as soon as I can convince the wife, I'm getting me a surefire crank!
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Read this. I did not write it, I picked it up somewhere on the web. Possibly here.
KNIFE FIGHTING POINTS Ten Points About The Fighting Knife 1). The knife is always with you, even in places where the gun cannot go. 2). It becomes the first line of weaponry when the pistol is not available by choice, policy, inaccessibility or loss. 3). If things have gotten bad enough to need the knife, the use of the knife should be aggressive, brutal and terminal, and not "defensive". 4). There is a place for using a knife against the unarmed adversary if that adversary is younger, stronger or faster than you are...or more numerous. 5). There is a place for keeping them away with your edge, but there is also a place for closing and stabbing. 6). A knife worthy of combat carry should facilitate stabbing and be simple and instictive to use. 7). The more complicated and complex a knife is, and the more elaborate its system of use, the less desirable it is. 8). Conversely, the simpler the knife and the system and more gross motor dependant it is, the better it will do in a fight. 9). A fixed blade is more desirable than a folder, but a folder may be required in some applications. If a folder is used, the lock should be robust and not technically clever. 10). Learn to be violent with your knife Ten Attributes To Select Your Fighting Knife 1). Sharp as hell and pointy as f***, you can't stab anyone or cut anyone with a dull round nosed blade. If this sounds vulgar, it is. There is nothing dainty about ramming a 3" piece of steel into a man's thrioat and tiwsting it as he fights to get it out. 2). Point in line with the handle. Upswept blades may be the acme of the knifemaker artist, but they suck eggs for ramming through a clavicle. 3). Long enough...but not too long. We hear that about lots of things. 4). Rough handle. Either G-10 or rough designed zytel handles. When you stab another man, his juices will get all over your blade and hand. 5). Solid lock. Liner locks suck. I don't care how graceful or cool they are...they suck. Axis lock as seen with benchmade or with Cold Steel is the way to go, or with an old style lockback design. 6). Solid opening method. This being 2009, and the "Wave" concept being as old as the pyramids now....a combat blade should have a wave feature if it is a folder. 7). Good steel. That does NOT mean stainless. I don't give an airborne fornication about stains on my knife...I WANT IT SHARP! 8). Again, if a folder, it needs a movable clip so operators may carry it as desired. The more I work on this Killing-focused system, the more I am liking reverse grip - edge in. That means for a righty, you carry point up- blade forward. 9). It must be cost-effective. Notice I did not say CHEAP. Cheap knives are for fags. Cost-effective means that if I decide to ditch it, I will not be heart broken to lose my special one-of-a-kind....nor will that special one-of-a-kind be tied to me. 10). There should be a boatload of them out there in society....like Glocks. Thus you cannot be identified or tied to the gear you use. If some of this stuff sounds like it comes from the world of the criminal rather than the world of the law abiding good guy, it does. One does not go to a clean shaven altar boy to learn to cut a throat. Ten Points About Using The Knife In A Fight 1). A fighting is knife is fueled by rage and ferocity, not by cleverness and showmanship. I recall seeing CWS go ape (or was it AMOK) on a knife expert we brought in one year. The best the very clever and artistic knife expert could do was match CWS stab for stab. But that was after CWS had stabbed him three or four times. 2). Learn to stab....HARD 3). Learn to hold the knife in a way that you will not lose it when you STAB HARD. 4). Since few of us go about with a 10" bowie, learn your targets. You may not be able to behead an attacker, but you can in fact rip out his jugular even with a 2" box cutter. 5). Footwork gets you off the line of the attack, but also gets you close enough to STAB HIM HARD. 6). The instant you pull steel your intent should be to stick it in his neck and rip it out a different way, and not to spar, fend, or ask him to stay back. 7). The grip area of your knife MUST be rough enough to stay in your hand if your hand is covered with blood (hopefully not yours). 8). The point must be in line with your stab. A Cold Steel Scimitar of a Spyderco Chinook do not have this, but a Cold Steel AK-47 and a Spyderco Endura do. 9). To train it, each knife must have an identical trainer (dulled knife) and a wooden/rubberized trainer (like Nok's). The identical trainer is used for technical and access drills. The wooden type trainer is used for attacking the heavy bag or the stabbing post. 10). Contrary to the advice of others, use your fighting knife for everything. From opening letters to cutting cheese or tomatoes. Handle your knife daily, keep it sharp, keep it handy. make accessing it as natural as scratching your butt. |
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I knew a southerner once who said a dull rusty knife was best for fighting with. Dullness caused more pain, and the rust would likely cause infection. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile He may end up dying with a dull rusty knife shoved up his ass one day. It takes a long time to die from an infection and pain won't kill you at all. If you want to win a knife fight, you'd better be bringing a knife that can cause the maximum amount of damage possible. |
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Try http://spartanbladesusa.com/cart/index.php Tier 1 for sure!
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This is a really hard knife to beat. One of the best purpose built fighting knifes if you read the requirements I posted above. |
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I've never stabbed anyone, but I've field dressed and disassembled enough animals to come to the conclusion that any knife without a hilt guard such as the Ka-bar would be pretty dangerous if you needed to stab someone in anger.
The last thing you would want is your hand slipping forward toward the blade from the blood/sweat and cutting yourself when you really need to be on your A game. |
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A Randall 1-7, just a classic piece of Americana. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z120/planejanel/Photo-0147.jpg Jane That's a great looking knife, but I'm not responsible enough to have things that look nice. My stuff just needs to be extra durable. I'm not into caressing most of my stuff. Lots of folks carried and used those Randall knives in the late southeast asia unpleasantness. |
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Now that i'm not a kid, I wish I could still buy a Buck 184 survival knife
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If I could only have one?
It would be the SOD. It's not too small, not too big, and can split wood/chop trees if you need it to. That said, the Scrapper 5 is a more useful knife day to day (as is the High Street). The size of the S5 and HS are more conducive to unobtrusive carry and daily tasks. They just seem "right". But in a camping, combat, or SHTF scenario, I think I'd reach for the SOD. It's a hell of a knife. Oh, btw, on a budget, the LMF from Gerber is not too shabby. I paid $65 for mine and it's worth every penny....it rides in my just in case bag in my truck. Cheap enough that I don't mind losing it; good enough that I won't feel "outknifed" LOL Where do you buy the SOD? I checked their site and it seems like they only have one knife you can order. I really like the tan SOD, their site is just a little confusing. |
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