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Quoted:
This pic shows why i like 50 yd zero, unless i am shooting at something smaller than 3 inches i don't really have to worry about holds out to about 250. With less than a 50 yd zero you have to start holding under at some of the most common ranges that folks are actually comfortable in. I usually use some sort of optic so i don't like to do that. I put crosshairs on target till it is pretty far out and then it's kind of guess work without a range finder but can just hold over a bit and usually still hit a vital box... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: @ConcernedCitizen https://i.imgur.com/ua4oOqN.jpg With your 25 yard zero shooting a 10" plate at 300 yards, holding at the top of the 10" plate would have you miss the plate completely. Because at 300 yards the trajectory of the bullet is 7.5" HIGH at 300 yards with your zero. You would need to aim 2.5" below the 10" plate 300 yards to hit dead center at 300 yards. https://i.imgur.com/prZU7mc.png See how hard it is to know your range and your hold overs from behind a computer with the 25 yard zero. So again, with you shooting at a 10" plate at 300 yards with a 25 yard zero, you would need to aim 2.5" under the bottom of the plate to hit center of the plate. |
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I have never had any issues with my 50 yard zero hitting CSAT targets out to 300 yards with my AP Pro. 400 yards was possible, as well.
Not my pic below, it’s just to show size of target. Attached File CSAT range. Attached File |
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Isnt the drum set for meters and the Army standard of 25m zero? View Quote The Army standard is not a 25 meter zero for the A2/A3/A4 iron sights. Zeroing is done at 25 meters but it is not a 25 meter zero (makes perfect sense right?). First you flip the aperture so that you're using the small aperture for zeroing. Depending on which rifle carbine you have you dial the rear elevation knob 1-2 (or more) clicks past the 8/3 or 6/3 setting then zero at 25 meters using the front sight to adjust point of impact. Once you're zeroed at 25 meters you dial the rear elevation drum back to the 8/3 setting which will leave you with an approximate 36/300 meter zero. According to the Army you're then supposed to confirm/refine zero at the actual 300 meter distance but I sincerely doubt anyone in non-special units ever did that. |
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36 yard BZO is great for it's intended use
Notice the "B". It's not really a Zero. Its a battle sight zero. Its to get you close to zero for your optic...such as iron sights or Acog/Elcan/similar reticle optics After your BZO is complete, you should confirm at 300 meters (or 328 yards). It should be pretty close to Zero. Theb you make any adjustments if needed for a 300m Zero. |
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Quoted: So most of my shooting is from 50-300 with a carbine. Seems that the 36 yard zero has less deviation than the 50. 50 is very similar until you get into longer ranges. At 300 your having to apply quite a bit of hold over. FYI not being an ass or anything, serious question. Most people seem to like 50. View Quote |
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Quoted: The 36 yard and 50 yard zeroes are both very similar for spread within 250 yards. From up close to 250 yards, the boxes are basically the same size for the two zeroes. After that, the 50 yard zero has a very large drop at 300 yards while the 36 yard zero doesn't. View Quote Also look at the 100. It is VERY tight out to 200. I believe that's more useful, as I'm not expecting much exposure or large, torso sized targets. Personally I prefer a 75 that splits the difference between the 50 and 100. |
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Quoted: The worst place for the 36 is around 170, which isn't shown. Also look at the 100. It is VERY tight out to 200. I believe that's more useful, as I'm not expecting much exposure or large, torso sized targets. Personally I prefer a 75 that splits the difference between the 50 and 100. View Quote |
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That's where your POI is 5"-6" above your POA. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Back to the 10" plate example, that's where it's possible to miss even when holding dead center. |
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Quoted: That's fine. Aim centermass and it is still a centermass hit. Aiming center at the 10" at point of aim with no correction still gets you on at the top of the 10" plate. View Quote That would be a miss if you were aiming center mass. https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Tell-me-why-a-36-yard-zero-is-dumb-/5-2301454/?page=2#i83852136 Attached File |
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I've looked through a couple threads, but can't seem to figure out why people don't seem to like the 36 yard zero. What does the 50 do better? Pic of my rifle operating in the theater of my office. https://i.ibb.co/h7k0fLz/IMG-4657.jpg I may or may not be in nothing but my chest rig. View Quote |
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Based on the Strelok ballistic data PlayingWithFire provided, his trajectory is 5.8" high at 175 yards. That would be a miss if you were aiming center mass. https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Tell-me-why-a-36-yard-zero-is-dumb-/5-2301454/?page=2#i83852136 https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200302-165903_Strelok_Pro_j-1299335.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: That's fine. Aim centermass and it is still a centermass hit. Aiming center at the 10" at point of aim with no correction still gets you on at the top of the 10" plate. That would be a miss if you were aiming center mass. https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Tell-me-why-a-36-yard-zero-is-dumb-/5-2301454/?page=2#i83852136 https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200302-165903_Strelok_Pro_j-1299335.JPG |
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And if using your preference of 50 yard zero, aiming center mass would be a miss at 325 yards as you would be 7.9" low. You would be ever so close to be on at 300 yards but are right around 5" low at 300 yards. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: That's fine. Aim centermass and it is still a centermass hit. Aiming center at the 10" at point of aim with no correction still gets you on at the top of the 10" plate. That would be a miss if you were aiming center mass. https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Tell-me-why-a-36-yard-zero-is-dumb-/5-2301454/?page=2#i83852136 https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200302-165903_Strelok_Pro_j-1299335.JPG The 36 yard zero has a definite advantage at 300-350 yards, but at the cost of a high midpoint trajectory. This is very well suited for larger, man-sized targets. The 50 yard zero keeps a flatter trajectory out to 250, but at the cost of dropping below the target at 300+ yards. This is better for smaller targets at mid-range. I think they're both excellent trajectories for most applications. |
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Correct. Both zeroes are very good for their intended purposes. The 36 yard zero has a definite advantage at 300-350 yards, but at the cost of a high midpoint trajectory. This is very well suited for larger, man-sized targets. The 50 yard zero keeps a flatter trajectory out to 250, but at the cost of dropping below the target at 300+ yards. This is better for smaller targets at mid-range. I think they're both excellent trajectories for most applications. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: That's fine. Aim centermass and it is still a centermass hit. Aiming center at the 10" at point of aim with no correction still gets you on at the top of the 10" plate. That would be a miss if you were aiming center mass. https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Tell-me-why-a-36-yard-zero-is-dumb-/5-2301454/?page=2#i83852136 https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200302-165903_Strelok_Pro_j-1299335.JPG The 36 yard zero has a definite advantage at 300-350 yards, but at the cost of a high midpoint trajectory. This is very well suited for larger, man-sized targets. The 50 yard zero keeps a flatter trajectory out to 250, but at the cost of dropping below the target at 300+ yards. This is better for smaller targets at mid-range. I think they're both excellent trajectories for most applications. |
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Your last graphic clearly shows the 50 yard zero has less intrinsic (not shooter induced) error/offset all the way out to 270 yards than the 36/300 yard zero and at 300 yards the 50-zero drop absolute value is no worse than your 36-zero offset at max ordinate at 170 yards. For this trade you will stay on a chest out to maybe 350 yards. I’d argue that at 300-350 yards where you have a sighting advantage I have more time to hold over than you do to hold under on a smaller, closer target. Further if I don’t know range on a hostile human target I’m going fire a 2-3 round vertical bracket and under recoil recovery let each successive hold rise a tiny bit until my front sight is obscuring the target. At closer ranges the round is a laser and I can concentrate on speed or fundamentals. I can push speed because I can afford to get really sloppy holding anywhere inside a 12” plate at 100 yards.
For a fire and maneuver team and large qual targets the 36 yd zero works great, but as an individual civilian it’s probably more important to reduce aiming error at ranges where 100% target identification is required. I’m not saying the zero is better for everything. I’m saying it meets my requirements better. I could just as easily use a 100 yard zero. For a 2.5” sight over bore the 50 yard zero works well across different calibers, super sonic velocities, barrel lengths for non-magnified sighting. |
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Once you're zeroed at 25 meters you dial the rear elevation drum back to the 8/3 setting which will leave you with an approximate 36/300 meter zero. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Isnt the drum set for meters and the Army standard of 25m zero? Ah OK I get it now! So Army is using the same BZO as marines, except they're dumbing down their near zero (a difference of 12yds) and using meters instead of yards? Been reading that the 36yd/300yd has a tighter spread than the 36m/300m zero. So in the end, if I use RIBZ and set my sights to the 6/3 I have the whole 36yd/300yd zero scheme correct? Meaning I could hit a near zero target of 36yds and the far zero of 300yds? |
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FWIW, Hathcock zeroed at 700 yards. Almost his entire trajectory was above his sightline. Hold unders on everything.
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Quoted: Name the ranges where you have shot that have 36 yard target backers. Anyway, all that is good for is to get on paper, followed by correcting the come ups for the range to be shot. Or, an emergency zero when there is not time to do anything else. If you refuse to adjust the sights for different ranges, then understand the maximum point blank range for your rifle and cartridge. Set a personal vertical limit, and then figure out when to hold high and when to hold low, or in the center. https://www.chuckhawks.com/mpbr_hunting.htm The idea of Maximum Point Blank Range is the reason these short range zeroes work for some applications such as hunting or busting dirt clods and hitting steel targets at ranges past rock throwing distances. https://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/10-inch-kill-zone.gif View Quote |
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For anyone that cares, I plugged in 55gr XM193 into Strelok Pro.
This is XM193 Attached File for 36 yd zero. |
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A 36yd zero for a 20” M16 with only irons? Yeah I’ll buy that. A 36yd zero for a RDS/LPVO equipped 10.5-16” AR? Bleh. I think context matters. It depends on what you’re using and what you’re doing with it. View Quote |
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Ok Arfcom......I need help.......I have shot a lot but am only very average.
I always thought the best zero for different AR barrel lengths were: 1 - 100 yards for the longer 20" barrels. 2 - 50 yards for a 16" barrel, and 3 - 25 (or 36) yards for a shorter pistol length barrel like a 10.5". Am I way off??? ETA: Oh, the reason being I just always assumed the shorter barrels have a steeper curve than the longer barrels??? |
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Backup aimpoint duct taped to the stock. Im good. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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I understand why the 36yd zero is usefull but I use the 50/200 bc its more practical as most ranges have 50/100/200 marked a I know how high I should be at 100. Some of my magnified scopes have BDCs based on a 50/200 zero as well.
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MPBR with a 4" target diameter for your BC and velocity.
10.5" is around 43 yard, 16" is around 51 yard. This means the gun shoots inside a 4" tube to the MPBR. This lets a 10.5" use a dead hold (within a 4" circle and your ammo/shooter inconsistencies) out to about 225 yards (which is much farther than most non war defensive shooting) and a 16" out to about 265. All this is assuming M193, other loads change the zero of course. A 36 yard zero puts impacts very high right at the distance a carbine or SBR is supposed to be used the most. Attached File Attached File |
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Because most ranges do not have a 36-yard firing line or target stands at 36-yards.
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And I am just trying to figure out zeroing my rifles for my bulk stash of 55gr vs my SD stash of 62gr
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I'm not sure either, RDak. My guess is maybe sight radius plays a role.
I was checking zero on a 16" with non-magnified ACSS over the weekend. This target was at 25 meters. With irons or 1x glass, I dont think I could see a 100yd target well enough or hold steady enough to get a group that I'm confident is centered around my POA. At short ranges, not really a problem for me. Attached File |
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@lomshek Ah OK I get it now! So Army is using the same BZO as marines, except they're dumbing down their near zero (a difference of 12yds) and using meters instead of yards? Been reading that the 36yd/300yd has a tighter spread than the 36m/300m zero. So in the end, if I use RIBZ and set my sights to the 6/3 I have the whole 36yd/300yd zero scheme correct? Meaning I could hit a near zero target of 36yds and the far zero of 300yds? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Isnt the drum set for meters and the Army standard of 25m zero? Ah OK I get it now! So Army is using the same BZO as marines, except they're dumbing down their near zero (a difference of 12yds) and using meters instead of yards? Been reading that the 36yd/300yd has a tighter spread than the 36m/300m zero. So in the end, if I use RIBZ and set my sights to the 6/3 I have the whole 36yd/300yd zero scheme correct? Meaning I could hit a near zero target of 36yds and the far zero of 300yds? My 200 yard zero is 2 clicks under the 8/3 setting. That allows my 8/3 mark to function as a proper 300 yard setting and should (theoretically) allow the other markings on my drum to be usable. For Appleseeds I just dial the elevation drum up a few clicks above 8/3 for a 25 yard zero without ever touching my front sight post and screwing with my primary 200 yard zero. I doubt if I’ll ever find myself in the TEOTWAKI scenario of having enemy troops marching in the open across a large field 400 yards away while wearing high visibility clothing in perfect light with only my trusty A2 at my side, but if I do, I’ll be ready to range them using the front sight post and dial elevation for a center hold before defending my harem of soccer moms. I think the Army does it the way they do because they already had a bunch of 25 meter ranges and no 36 meter ranges. |
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I think I’m a convert to the 50.
So I had some time this morning and I zeroed are 50 and played around at various distances. March 3, 2020 12” gong with the rifle pictured and m885. I actually found it a little easier to connect out at 300 because I could hold over a bit. ETA: yea two misses, I know I know. M885 life. |
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I'd love to see a chart or graph for the 75 yard zero. I'm guessing it's pretty close to +/- 1.5" out to 200 yards. View Quote Attached File From 40 to 180 it is within 1" of line of sight. Here are the numbers for the 50, 75 (yellow highlight) and 100 yard zeros: Attached File |
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That's fine. Aim centermass and it is still a centermass hit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Aiming center at the 10" at point of aim with no correction still gets you on at the top of the 10" plate. |
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For anyone that cares, I plugged in 55gr XM193 into Strelok Pro. This is XM193https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200303-071530_Strelok_Pro_j-1300077.JPG for 36 yd zero. View Quote |
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I'm not sure either, RDak. My guess is maybe sight radius plays a role. I was checking zero on a 16" with non-magnified ACSS over the weekend. This target was at 25 meters. With irons or 1x glass, I dont think I could see a 100yd target well enough or hold steady enough to get a group that I'm confident is centered around my POA. At short ranges, not really a problem for me.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/354103/20200301_195542_jpg-1300162.JPG View Quote |
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62gr XM855 with 36yd zero. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200302-165903_Strelok_Pro_j-1300078.JPG View Quote This is assuming no other changes in POI, a rifle zeroed from the bench or bipod won't have the same zero from, say, prone with sling. ARs tend to have less zero shift than others, but it is still going to be there. |
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For anyone that cares, I plugged in 55gr XM193 into Strelok Pro. This is XM193https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200303-071530_Strelok_Pro_j-1300077.JPG for 36 yd zero. View Quote By contrast, the 75 zero could be 5" low at 200 assuming a 3 moa zero. Head shots all the way out to 200 even with a 3 moa accuracy. And 0 -- 200 is far more likely an engagement range for civilians. And more important than > 200 since proximity = importance. And, frankly, I think it is a huge assumption to think your target will be torso sized. |
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36 yard BZO is great for it's intended use Notice the "B". It's not really a Zero. Its a battle sight zero. Its to get you close to zero for your optic...such as iron sights or Acog/Elcan/similar reticle optics After your BZO is complete, you should confirm at 300 meters (or 328 yards). It should be pretty close to Zero. Theb you make any adjustments if needed for a 300m Zero. View Quote |
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This discussion needs a better base.
16" barrel with M193 10.3" barrel with M193 What you got? I have mine at 50yds and smack my 10" gong at 400yds with POA at the top of the gong. |
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I didn't have any problem hitting the target at 500 yards with an M16A2. And how big was the target again? If you can hit it, you can hit a person |
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Meter master race checking in.
Reddots/1.5 ACOG/Irons: 50M for 556. 13M/100M for 300Blk subs. 25M for 9mm PCC. Scopes: 100M |
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Name the ranges where you have shot that have 36 yard target backers. View Quote They have targets that are set up to shoot at 25 yards, but your zero is 36. Here is a good video from Shawn Ryan talking about it and he has a target you can download for this. Vigilance Elite: Shawn Ryan gives his opinion on what his favorite zero is when using holographic sights. The video starts off covering 5.56 holds (2.5" high) for close range 7 yards and in with holographic red dot sights. Moving on to the traditional zeros and holds the 25yd, 50yd, 100yd and the non traditional 36yd zero. Shawn explains the 36yd zero and why it is his personal favorite. Ballistic Calculations were calculated off of 5.56 55gr FMJ for the reason that it is the most common type of range ammo. Vigilance Elite - Spec Ops Dude's Favorite Combat Rifle Zero |
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I always thought it was 3 inches at its highest point (well for a 55 grain bullet and 20 inch barrel)??? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Name the ranges where you have shot that have 36 yard target backers. Anyway, all that is good for is to get on paper, followed by correcting the come ups for the range to be shot. Or, an emergency zero when there is not time to do anything else. If you refuse to adjust the sights for different ranges, then understand the maximum point blank range for your rifle and cartridge. Set a personal vertical limit, and then figure out when to hold high and when to hold low, or in the center. https://www.chuckhawks.com/mpbr_hunting.htm The idea of Maximum Point Blank Range is the reason these short range zeroes work for some applications such as hunting or busting dirt clods and hitting steel targets at ranges past rock throwing distances. https://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/10-inch-kill-zone.gif |
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Quoted: This. The argument that their local range only goes to 25 yards and doesn't have a 36 yard range, is no excuse for not trying it. https://i.imgur.com/XwTwH2n.jpg https://www.vigilanceelite.com/blogs/vigilance-elite-blogs/36-yard-zero View Quote Hell I do an initial bore sight with all my rifles in my kitchen/back living room. I don’t recall the exact distance. Maybe 15-ish yards. I just run a ballistics app, print out a custom target using MS Excel, and eyeball it old school (no laser bore sight). Last one I did like this is a 10.5” pistol. Calculated for a 200 yard zero. First 5 rounds at the range were COM on a steel silhouette at 200 yards. As far as zeros, I’ve been transitioning over to a MPBR on almost all my ARs. Only one that’s not wears a Holosun RDS with a ACSS reticle. That one calls for 100 yards, with a BDC out to 500. MPBR is just plain simple and effective. I start with a 6” hit zone (no more than 3” high/low off POA). Then run the ballistics for my preferred round/bullet weight. In most cases it results in what would amount to roughly a 40-240 zero. With standard 16” carbines I can hold COM and connect out to 350. Hold at the head and it gets me to almost 450. I posted about it for one of my rifles in greater detail in the thread linked below. Oddly enough, it was also a thread with an OP asking about a 36 yard zero. https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/36-yard-zero-is-the-best-combat-zero-for-the-AR15/5-2123606/&page=4#i73255401 Target overview for those who don’t want to click the link (16” carbine, 62gr Fusion, 6” hit zone)... |
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I'm a fan of zeroing at whatever range gives gives the best point blank range for your chosen vital radius, velocity, bc, and sight height of the specific rifle. There are plenty of free ballistic calculators to figure it out. View Quote While I can’t take credit for the MPBR (seemingly) becoming more prevalent these days, I’ve been preaching it for a few years now. I know it’s been around for a long time. But just cool to see it gaining popularity. |
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I do 50 with irons and red dots.
I do 100 with magnified optics. |
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