User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:23:16 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: thanks, I definitely don't think I have one of those. There's not one anywhere in line from my breaker to the area where my well stuff is. But at the breaker my pump is a 220v. If you don't think my problem is my pressure switch I guess I'll try and get a hold of someone and have to be without water for a couple days. Usually only 120V pumps don't have those control boxes, been about 4-5 years since I have done any residential as 100% of all my work is commercial and 125hp or bigger. So things might have changed...sorry. Give your local pump guy a call, he will be glad to pop by even on a saturday, thats what we do. being without water sucks balls. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:26:07 AM EDT
[#2]
Also check current to the motor, either the black or white wires. Clamp on ammeter.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:27:17 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
lol. I really hope not. (that sounds like the more expensive fix ?) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
pumps dead jim lol. I really hope not. (that sounds like the more expensive fix ?) A buddy & myself did mine, took a couple Hours it was easier then what I thought it was going to be, we picked it up by the pipe bought a pump from Big R under 500 bucks screwed it on the pipe lowered down one pipe at a time. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:29:27 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The start capacitor is the big one and the run is the small one, usually the start capacitor is the one that goes out. Before you touch it with the pwoer off use your screwdriver to short it out across the terminals (discharge it) then with your digital or analog meter set it at 10k Ohms and test the two leads. Should slowly increase resistance to show zero ohms or less than 500 ohms..capacitor is then good, if not capacitor is then bad and needs replacing. Did you clean the points on your pressure switch real good like I told you? And yes, I cleaned all connections real good |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:30:49 AM EDT
[#5]
Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:34:14 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for. Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:47:50 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Switch is closed as it should be at o psi, try cleaning the points. The points look good though. Might be a problem with your control box if it is a 220V pump motor. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Switch is closed as it should be at o psi, try cleaning the points. The points look good though. Might be a problem with your control box if it is a 220V pump motor. I got called away to a moo cow... sorry Did op confirm 220 at the switch? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:54:55 AM EDT
[#8]
OP let us know of the outcome and cost.
cheers! |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:04:31 PM EDT
[#9]
Had the same thing happen about 3 months ago.
Good voltage, replaced the start cap in the control box, no go. Called the well guy, he brought up the pump and there were two dead shorts in the wiring. He said the wiring used in my pump that was installed in 2004 is no longer used because of the high failure rate. The new wire is double insulated flat wire (looks like UF cable) rather than a spiral wound single insulated individual three wire. While we had the pump out, and the MTBF is 10-12 years, we replaced the pump too. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:10:01 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for. Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:16:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP let us know of the outcome and cost. cheers! Will do. Thanks for all the insight, called a guy and he should be out here within the hour. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:24:04 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Had the same thing happen about 3 months ago. Good voltage, replaced the start cap in the control box, no go. Called the well guy, he brought up the pump and there were two dead shorts in the wiring. He said the wiring used in my pump that was installed in 2004 is no longer used because of the high failure rate. The new wire is double insulated flat wire (looks like UF cable) rather than a spiral wound single insulated individual three wire. While we had the pump out, and the MTBF is 10-12 years, we replaced the pump too. Wire is called flat jacketed, only wire I recommend, twisted wire is shit. Cheap but shit and in the long run costs you more $. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:26:25 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Will do. Thanks for all the insight, called a guy and he should be out here within the hour. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: OP let us know of the outcome and cost. cheers! Will do. Thanks for all the insight, called a guy and he should be out here within the hour. Have him check your pressure tank and ask him to show you how to check it yourself and make sure it's charged properly with air pressure...then check it every 4-6 months yourself and odds are it will last you 10x longer than ones that are never checked...helps the pump motor live longer too when the pressure tank is working properly. ETA: Put a mothball in your pressure switch, keeps bugs out and prevents them getting squished when the pressure switch points slam shut. Change it when you service your pressure tank. This tip alone will save you a $120 service call down the road (next spring). Usually when I used to do service calls I would show folks how to clean their PS and check their PT so they felt like they weren't getting screwed with a $120 bill for 10 minutes of my time....yeah I am a nice guy that way.  |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:33:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Then there should be a control box with with reset button on the bottom of it. Try the button. If that doesn't do it could be a bad start or run capacitor or a bad triad relay...you would be best served by calling a pump guy and paying him the $120 an hour to diagnose. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
NO...WTF are you talking about those points are pressure based not power based for fuck sakes??? I'll defer to the pro. Looks by wire color you have a 120V pump and therefore no control box, if points on pressure switch are clean and you have power to the pressure switch and it is truly 120V which you can tell by the breaker being a single pole (120V) or double pole (220V) your proble is probably down the hole. So which is it 220V or 120V?? I can tell if the PS has power by putting a tapping couple fingers on the screws to see if they are hot...you may want to use a meter instead. ETA: manly way to check power to the PS..congrats I aint afraid of a little electricity, although I probably should be. ha It is 220v Then there should be a control box with with reset button on the bottom of it. Try the button. If that doesn't do it could be a bad start or run capacitor or a bad triad relay...you would be best served by calling a pump guy and paying him the $120 an hour to diagnose. It will only have a control box if it is a 3 wire pump not counting the ground. I have a 2 wire 220 volt pump and there is no control box. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:40:23 PM EDT
[#15]
Op might have a shallow well. I have seen alot of shallow wells in michigan. They are outlawed now but if your not sure, you should check your well depth. http://www.deq.state.mi.us/well-logs/ All wells are required to be registered. You can find your well at the website i posted. If you cant find it its probably shallow and probably no pitless adapter. Good luck.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:45:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for. Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. A friend and I just pull one with poly pipe out that was 200 feet with out any problems at all. A couple of years ago My 65 year old dad and I had to pull my pump also with poly that was 160 feet down again no big deal. Also neither of these pumps had a control box and both were 240 volt. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:47:58 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for. Having pulled both types I would say it was the other way around. Pulling poly pipe is much easier than steel since you don't have to stop and support the pipe while you break a joint with poly like you do with steel. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 12:58:31 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: And you have given some of it me and a friend just pull one with poly pipe out that was 200 feet with out any problems at all. A couple of years ago My 65 year old dad and I had to pull my pump also with poly that was 160 feet down again no big deal. Also neither of these pumps had a control box and both were 240 volt Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for. Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. And you have given some of it me and a friend just pull one with poly pipe out that was 200 feet with out any problems at all. A couple of years ago My 65 year old dad and I had to pull my pump also with poly that was 160 feet down again no big deal. Also neither of these pumps had a control box and both were 240 volt yep 25 years of drilling wells and I am talking out my ass...awesome. Guess you missed the part where I said I haven't done residential wells in the last 5-6 years so motors might have changed. Poly pipe is the cheapest shit you can set a pump on and would only use it in a PVC lined well. Starting torque will ruin your sub cable in just a few years..but please carry one and ignore me. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 1:12:41 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wire is called flat jacketed, only wire I recommend, twisted wire is shit. Cheap but shit and in the long run costs you more $. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Had the same thing happen about 3 months ago. Good voltage, replaced the start cap in the control box, no go. Called the well guy, he brought up the pump and there were two dead shorts in the wiring. He said the wiring used in my pump that was installed in 2004 is no longer used because of the high failure rate. The new wire is double insulated flat wire (looks like UF cable) rather than a spiral wound single insulated individual three wire. While we had the pump out, and the MTBF is 10-12 years, we replaced the pump too. Wire is called flat jacketed, only wire I recommend, twisted wire is shit. Cheap but shit and in the long run costs you more $. Maybe in a commercial setting but my pump is wired with a Black, Red, and Green twisted wire and I have never had a problem with it and it is at least 20 years old if not older. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 1:17:13 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
yep 25 years of drilling wells and I am talking out my ass...awesome. Guess you missed the part where I said I haven't done residential wells in the last 5-6 years so motors might have changed. Poly pipe is the cheapest shit you can set a pump on and would only use it in a PVC lined well. Starting torque will ruin your sub cable in just a few years..but please carry one and ignore me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for. Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. And you have given some of it me and a friend just pull one with poly pipe out that was 200 feet with out any problems at all. A couple of years ago My 65 year old dad and I had to pull my pump also with poly that was 160 feet down again no big deal. Also neither of these pumps had a control box and both were 240 volt yep 25 years of drilling wells and I am talking out my ass...awesome. Guess you missed the part where I said I haven't done residential wells in the last 5-6 years so motors might have changed. Poly pipe is the cheapest shit you can set a pump on and would only use it in a PVC lined well. Starting torque will ruin your sub cable in just a few years..but please carry one and ignore me. That's funny my well is over 20 years old with poly pipe and twisted wire and I have never had a problem with it. This is still the standard way for residential wells in my area |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 1:22:30 PM EDT
[#21]
About six months ago my water went out. After checking the pressure switch, knowing the pressure tank still had the proper air pressure, I looked at the control box, when I turned it back on, it let out the magic smoke, after installing a spare box still no joy.
I had a professional come out, upon pulling the pump it turned out that the wire just upstream of the well pump had abraded and shorted. Given the age of the pump I went ahead and had a Gould pump and box installed. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 1:28:13 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Steel well pipe is a DIY. Poly pipe with torque arrestors is something you call a pro for. Shits gets slippery as fuck with the biofilm, pumps take off down the hole the sub cable can wrap a limb and try to suck you down a 6" piece of casing...not a good way to learn about doing the job. There is a reason I have a $95k pump truck parked at my house...and its not because a tripod or ladders would be cheaper. If your pump is set 80' or deeper for fuck sakes do not try to pull by hand...some serious bad advice on this thread. Yup |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 2:36:44 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's funny my well is over 20 years old with poly pipe and twisted wire and I have never had a problem with it. This is still the standard way for residential wells in my area Being backwards is fine by me cause you know technology and newer materials and all that is just the man trying to rip you off and all. So please carry one with your fine self and your wealth of knowledge as I obviously have no idea about what I am talking about. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 2:43:00 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: About six months ago my water went out. After checking the pressure switch, knowing the pressure tank still had the proper air pressure, I looked at the control box, when I turned it back on, it let out the magic smoke, after installing a spare box still no joy. I had a professional come out, upon pulling the pump it turned out that the wire just upstream of the well pump had abraded and shorted. Given the age of the pump I went ahead and had a Gould pump and box installed. Starting torque of the motor cause even steel pipe to twist like a piece of over cooked pasta. I have seen some pump guys tape a loop on the sub wire to get a two year service call. I used to show it to the owners to differentiate between myself and those other types of people. Like I said I don't do residential anymore but I kept my pump truck cause...just because. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 5:49:40 PM EDT
[#25]
A few months ago I was experimenting to see why my electric bill was so high..I turned off my well pump breaker for a few hours in the middle of the day (I get a daily online kwh reading ) The process of turning the pump off and on did a number on the water softener which released its resin into the household water lines and clogged faucets and toliets ..cost me about $500
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 6:22:01 PM EDT
[#26]
When I had my pump replaced several months ago, it was $1100. Pump was 167' down, and the well is 440 feet deep. The pump was constantly running and water pressure was low.
Money well spent |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 8:34:19 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW Their could even be debris between the contacts. So check that to make sure you're get a good contact. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 8:36:14 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Did you check the pressure switch that turns the pump on/off? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 8:50:13 PM EDT
[#29]
For fucks sake, chlorinate the well when you get water back on so you don't get sick from laying out the equipment on the filthy ground.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 2:33:14 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe in a commercial setting but my pump is wired with a Black, Red, and Green twisted wire and I have never had a problem with it and it is at least 20 years old if not older. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Had the same thing happen about 3 months ago. Good voltage, replaced the start cap in the control box, no go. Called the well guy, he brought up the pump and there were two dead shorts in the wiring. He said the wiring used in my pump that was installed in 2004 is no longer used because of the high failure rate. The new wire is double insulated flat wire (looks like UF cable) rather than a spiral wound single insulated individual three wire. While we had the pump out, and the MTBF is 10-12 years, we replaced the pump too. Wire is called flat jacketed, only wire I recommend, twisted wire is shit. Cheap but shit and in the long run costs you more $. Maybe in a commercial setting but my pump is wired with a Black, Red, and Green twisted wire and I have never had a problem with it and it is at least 20 years old if not older. Based on what I observed when my pump was hauled up, I'm going to have to agree with Con-Sol. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 2:42:03 AM EDT
[#31]
OP can flush his toilets now and that is all that matters...according to the many wives I have run across doing service calls.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 3:09:13 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Based on what I observed when my pump was hauled up, I'm going to have to agree with Con-Sol. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Had the same thing happen about 3 months ago. Good voltage, replaced the start cap in the control box, no go. Called the well guy, he brought up the pump and there were two dead shorts in the wiring. He said the wiring used in my pump that was installed in 2004 is no longer used because of the high failure rate. The new wire is double insulated flat wire (looks like UF cable) rather than a spiral wound single insulated individual three wire. While we had the pump out, and the MTBF is 10-12 years, we replaced the pump too. Wire is called flat jacketed, only wire I recommend, twisted wire is shit. Cheap but shit and in the long run costs you more $. Maybe in a commercial setting but my pump is wired with a Black, Red, and Green twisted wire and I have never had a problem with it and it is at least 20 years old if not older. Based on what I observed when my pump was hauled up, I'm going to have to agree with Con-Sol. I use one of these  sometimes they can be rented locally --sometimes not. I have had plenty of customers whose wells had no spacers no torque arrestor or safety line and if they don't want to add them upon a new pump going in I wont warranty it simple as that. 15-20 bucks will save you alot of grief down the road. Also you dont need multiple check valves there should be one built into a submersible pump and perhaps an optional one just ahead of the tank T to prevent your whole system draining back IF the pump check valve were to fail --so rare as to be not worth worrying about. I have found tons of bad homeowner and helpful neighbor shortcuts in pump installations some I cant believe actually worked for any length of time at all --no ground hooked up, 15 splices in the down wire home depot,lowes or tractor supply pumps that last 3 days and fail. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 4:40:04 AM EDT
[#33]
Con-Sol, I've been in the Well Drilling Biz since '74.
2 Wire 240-V Submersible Motors are nothing new. They've been actively used in the North East since the late '60's. I always recommend a 3 wire and we've installed tens of thousands of them due to the Control Box. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 4:45:03 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Con-Sol, I've been in the Well Drilling Biz since '74. 2 Wire 240-V Submersible Motors are nothing new. They've been actively used in the North East since the late '60's. I always recommend a 3 wire and we've installed tens of thousands of them due to the Control Box. Not legal in CA, thats why I am not familiar with them, only 3+ ground wire allowed where I learned my trade. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 4:56:41 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not legal in CA, thats why I am not familiar with them, only 3+ ground wire allowed where I learned my trade. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Con-Sol, I've been in the Well Drilling Biz since '74. 2 Wire 240-V Submersible Motors are nothing new. They've been actively used in the North East since the late '60's. I always recommend a 3 wire and we've installed tens of thousands of them due to the Control Box. Not legal in CA, thats why I am not familiar with them, only 3+ ground wire allowed where I learned my trade. Interesting. I have a place in Way Northern Cal and one of my wells is a 2 wire. It was drilled and pump installed prior to my purchase. The house was built in 1980. Another place I had in Sonora also had a 2 wire. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 5:00:21 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Interesting. I have a place in Way Northern Cal and one of my wells is a 2 wire. It was drilled and pump installed prior to my purchase. The house was built in 1980. Another place I had in Sonora also had a 2 wire. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Con-Sol, I've been in the Well Drilling Biz since '74. 2 Wire 240-V Submersible Motors are nothing new. They've been actively used in the North East since the late '60's. I always recommend a 3 wire and we've installed tens of thousands of them due to the Control Box. Not legal in CA, thats why I am not familiar with them, only 3+ ground wire allowed where I learned my trade. Interesting. I have a place in Way Northern Cal and one of my wells is a 2 wire. It was drilled and pump installed prior to my purchase. The house was built in 1980. Another place I had in Sonora also had a 2 wire. I was still in High school in 1980. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 5:02:14 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was still in High school in 1980. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Con-Sol, I've been in the Well Drilling Biz since '74. 2 Wire 240-V Submersible Motors are nothing new. They've been actively used in the North East since the late '60's. I always recommend a 3 wire and we've installed tens of thousands of them due to the Control Box. Not legal in CA, thats why I am not familiar with them, only 3+ ground wire allowed where I learned my trade. Interesting. I have a place in Way Northern Cal and one of my wells is a 2 wire. It was drilled and pump installed prior to my purchase. The house was built in 1980. Another place I had in Sonora also had a 2 wire. I was still in High school in 1980. Now you're just poking me with a stick, aren't you? 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 5:12:25 AM EDT
[#38]
So have we verified 220 Volts at the pressure switch yet. If the wire from the house has one bad conductor it could only be running at 120V, but showing power. And for the love of God, pull the incoming wires off the pressure switch terminals, and check between the two hot wires for 220-240VAC. Then check each wire to ground to double check. While you have meter at pressure switch, remove pump wires from pressure switch contacts. If the switch is closed, measure continuity across the pressure switch contacts.
Next if all is good, put everything back, and put your clamp on amp meter on each hot wire to see if any amp draw. Beyond that I can not help you anymore. Good luck OP |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 6:49:10 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Now you're just poking me with a stick, aren't you? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Con-Sol, I've been in the Well Drilling Biz since '74. 2 Wire 240-V Submersible Motors are nothing new. They've been actively used in the North East since the late '60's. I always recommend a 3 wire and we've installed tens of thousands of them due to the Control Box. Not legal in CA, thats why I am not familiar with them, only 3+ ground wire allowed where I learned my trade. Interesting. I have a place in Way Northern Cal and one of my wells is a 2 wire. It was drilled and pump installed prior to my purchase. The house was built in 1980. Another place I had in Sonora also had a 2 wire. I was still in High school in 1980. Now you're just poking me with a stick, aren't you? At that time I was still a virgin, I wasn't poking anything to be truthful. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 6:11:15 PM EDT
[#40]
I notice you're in MI. Freeze thaw cycles will be at work.. Something that hasn't been mentioned yet is a leak in the line between the well and the house.
Have you noticed any "wetter than normal areas??" Something I've seen many times here in Maine is a leak right where the waterline couples to the pitiless adapter. When back filling the area around the pittless and 4-6 feet out on the line. Fine sand or screened gravel is called for. Many people just put the original diggings back in the trench & around the well casing.. In time this can cause the pipe to flex to the point where it springs a leak. Take a good look around the well head. Is the grass way greener than usual? Is the ground wetter than normal for this time of year? It will mean a bunch of shovel work but it's a fix that a reasonably handy homeowner can do. Best luck bud... Had my share of pulling pumps & digging up lines..
ETA.. pic of basic layout.. 
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
