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Posted: 2/18/2015 5:38:59 AM EDT
What is it called?
I searched for concrete agitator and that's obviously not it. |
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Quoted: What is it called? I searched for concrete agitator and that's obviously not it. View Quote http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/concrete-vibrators/concrete-vibrator-42947.html Edited...VA-gunnut |
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You are about to find out how well your forms are constructed.
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are you doing sonotubes, formed footings or a slab?
footings you don't need anything, just a piece of rebar to agitate the mix so it will settle, same thing for grouting block slabs you need a tamper, this knock the gravel down below the surface a bit sonotubes or tough block grouting you need a vibrating probe, these things are so effective they will liquify a dry mix. We did about 20 x 6 foot tubes last summer and the probe worked great, only took about 10 seconds per tube I think it cost me $40 to rent from Homey Depot for a day. |
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Quoted: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/concrete-vibrators/concrete-vibrator-42947.html Edited...VA-gunnut View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: What is it called? I searched for concrete agitator and that's obviously not it. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/concrete-vibrators/concrete-vibrator-42947.html Edited...VA-gunnut Edited...VA-gunnut |
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OH CHIT!!! That looks like the tool they use for colon check.
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Quoted:
are you doing sonotubes, formed footings or a slab? footings you don't need anything, just a piece of rebar to agitate the mix so it will settle, same thing for grouting block slabs you need a tamper, this knock the gravel down below the surface a bit sonotubes or tough block grouting you need a vibrating probe, these things are so effective they will liquify a dry mix. We did about 20 x 6 foot tubes last summer and the probe worked great, only took about 10 seconds per tube I think it cost me $40 to rent from Homey Depot for a day. View Quote It's for sonotube pours. And thanks for the 10 vibrator answers above. |
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Vibrator was already covered.
However, if you ask anyone on a flatwork job where the "horse cock" is, he will probably assume you are talking about the same thing. |
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For slabs we called it a juke. Two handles with expanded metal bottom.
Hard work juking, had to walk backwards and kick in your footprints as you go. again for slab only. |
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Speaking of concrete, I have 25 bags to mix and pour today if anyone is bored.
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Lol That's what we always call them as well. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes We always called cable hung tilt switches "donkey dicks". But looking at them they are pretty much the same looking. |
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http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/999/999335_2000x2000.jpg Depending on the height of the pour, how much rebar is in the way, and what the vertical drop is from the concrete truck's chute or the pumper truck's hose, you may not want to use a concrete vibrator or consolidator like pictured above. Supposedly, you can get the bigger aggregate to actually fall to the bottom of the pour. Beating on your forms with a rubber mallet works too. It just works out your arms. View Quote Right - don't put the vibrator in the sonotube and let it sit for a minute or two ... 10 to 20 seconds depending on height is good. |
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We used to call it a puddler. Dunno if everyone calls it that though.
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Right - don't put the vibrator in the sonotube and let it sit for a minute or two ... 10 to 20 seconds depending on height is good. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/999/999335_2000x2000.jpg Depending on the height of the pour, how much rebar is in the way, and what the vertical drop is from the concrete truck's chute or the pumper truck's hose, you may not want to use a concrete vibrator or consolidator like pictured above. Supposedly, you can get the bigger aggregate to actually fall to the bottom of the pour. Beating on your forms with a rubber mallet works too. It just works out your arms. Right - don't put the vibrator in the sonotube and let it sit for a minute or two ... 10 to 20 seconds depending on height is good. Yes sir! What you are trying to avoid is this: It is called "honeycomb" or "honeycombing". Usually it doesn't look that bad, more like this: |
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Great, now everyone is off to their fav porn site to see if a chick has "used" a concrete probe.
I may or may not be searching as well. |
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You honestly think he couldn't figure out its a vibrator? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Lol. All the serious replys. Troll thread. OP is working on his house. Not a troll thread. You honestly think he couldn't figure out its a vibrator? I think if you google donkey dick vibrator, you'll end up finding other than construction tools. |
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If you can get to he outside of the form just press the vibrator against the form.
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I sometimes miss the old days of woking for the local masonry and concrete guys. From 16-76, everybody on the job could enjoy the inevitable mom jokes that came out when the vibrator was needed.
I made what was probably the world's oldest working mason spit out his teeth when I sniffed the 'wand' and told the boss it smelled like his wife. |
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I sometimes miss the old days of woking for the local masonry and concrete guys. From 16-76, everybody on the job could enjoy the inevitable mom jokes that came out when the vibrator was needed. I made what was probably the world's oldest working mason spit out his teeth when I sniffed the 'wand' and told the boss it smelled like his wife. View Quote I've hear that one! ... Because I'm the boss. |
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First the heater, then the Earth auger, now concrete.
What the hell are you building?! |
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ETA: His next thread will be "Can you really make chloroform with just acetone and chlorine bleach?" View Quote No, but you can buy it on Ebay. Not kidding. Free 4 day shipping, too! |
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How much concrete are you pouring? A small pad 4x6, some posts, or something you might be able to get away with some MacGyver device. A drive way...yeah go pro.
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I did not know what it's called. I got it dug down 32" now from the bottom of the hole to the bottom of the beam. Gonna pick up the sonotube today to see how much wider I have to make the hole. http://www.bloodshotgamer.com/guns/pier2.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Lol. All the serious replys. Troll thread. OP is working on his house. Not a troll thread. You honestly think he couldn't figure out its a vibrator? I did not know what it's called. I got it dug down 32" now from the bottom of the hole to the bottom of the beam. Gonna pick up the sonotube today to see how much wider I have to make the hole. http://www.bloodshotgamer.com/guns/pier2.JPG I wouldn't get tube. Just square the bottom of the hole up a little, and throw a 2x6 form around the hole. You want the mud to fill the hole and touch all of the non disturbed soil (bottom and sides). This is what stabilizes the peir footing. If you put tube down into the hole, there is soil around the tube that it hasn't filled against. Build the form to be easily knocked apart to get out. Fill it up with mud and set a post base or throw a pier block on. Using tube sucks. It's hard to brace up. Expensive. And no one will ever see your pretty tube. I definitely wouldn't bother vibrating an under house footing. For something that small, there is no real structural concern, and no one will ever see it. Most tubes I've set were full of engineered welded bar cages for structural support. The bar cages were 19" outside and the tube set were 24". If the piers were in front of the house and where you could see them, then I'd might use tube and the donkey dick. Vibrators are for removing big voids in stem walls or tubes when they are full of bar that is blocking the mud from settling around it. This is a structural problem. I've seen a ton of forms come off where the vibrator was used and ther was still some honeycomb left. Tapping the forms sometimes works just as good for removing small honeycomb pockets. |
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I've hear that one! ... Because I'm the boss. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I sometimes miss the old days of woking for the local masonry and concrete guys. From 16-76, everybody on the job could enjoy the inevitable mom jokes that came out when the vibrator was needed. I made what was probably the world's oldest working mason spit out his teeth when I sniffed the 'wand' and told the boss it smelled like his wife. I've hear that one! ... Because I'm the boss. Old guy was the boss's dad and original owner of the company. He was pushing 80 when I was in high school working. I used to sit with him at lunch and learn, learn, learn. |
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I wouldn't get tube. Just square the bottom of the hole up a little, and throw a 2x6 form around the hole. You want the mud to fill the hole and touch all of the non disturbed soil (bottom and sides). This is what stabilizes the peir footing. If you put tube down into the hole, there is soil around the tube that it hasn't filled against. Build the form to be easily knocked apart to get out. Fill it up with mud and set a post base or throw a pier block on. Using tube sucks. It's hard to brace up. Expensive. And no one will ever see your pretty tube. I definitely wouldn't bother vibrating an under house footing. For something that small, there is no real structural concern, and no one will ever see it. Most tubes I've set were full of engineered welded bar cages for structural support. The bar cages were 19" outside and the tube set were 24". If the piers were in front of the house and where you could see them, then I'd might use tube and the donkey dick. Vibrators are for removing big voids in stem walls or tubes when they are full of bar that is blocking the mud from settling around it. This is a structural problem. I've seen a ton of forms come off where the vibrator was used and ther was still some honeycomb left. Tapping the forms sometimes works just as good for removing small honeycomb pockets. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Lol. All the serious replys. Troll thread. OP is working on his house. Not a troll thread. You honestly think he couldn't figure out its a vibrator? I did not know what it's called. I got it dug down 32" now from the bottom of the hole to the bottom of the beam. Gonna pick up the sonotube today to see how much wider I have to make the hole. http://www.bloodshotgamer.com/guns/pier2.JPG I wouldn't get tube. Just square the bottom of the hole up a little, and throw a 2x6 form around the hole. You want the mud to fill the hole and touch all of the non disturbed soil (bottom and sides). This is what stabilizes the peir footing. If you put tube down into the hole, there is soil around the tube that it hasn't filled against. Build the form to be easily knocked apart to get out. Fill it up with mud and set a post base or throw a pier block on. Using tube sucks. It's hard to brace up. Expensive. And no one will ever see your pretty tube. I definitely wouldn't bother vibrating an under house footing. For something that small, there is no real structural concern, and no one will ever see it. Most tubes I've set were full of engineered welded bar cages for structural support. The bar cages were 19" outside and the tube set were 24". If the piers were in front of the house and where you could see them, then I'd might use tube and the donkey dick. Vibrators are for removing big voids in stem walls or tubes when they are full of bar that is blocking the mud from settling around it. This is a structural problem. I've seen a ton of forms come off where the vibrator was used and ther was still some honeycomb left. Tapping the forms sometimes works just as good for removing small honeycomb pockets. My plan was to use the tube, then pour concrete on the outside of the tube as opposed to backfilling with dirt. Can I do that? I know I'm overdoing it. I can't help it. I have OCD. And I'll know I have a pretty tube under my house. |
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My plan was to use the tube, then pour concrete on the outside of the tube as opposed to backfilling with dirt. Can I do that? I know I'm overdoing it. I can't help it. I have OCD. And I'll know I have a pretty tube under my house. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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You honestly think he couldn't figure out its a vibrator? I did not know what it's called. I got it dug down 32" now from the bottom of the hole to the bottom of the beam. Gonna pick up the sonotube today to see how much wider I have to make the hole. http://www.bloodshotgamer.com/guns/pier2.JPG I wouldn't get tube. Just square the bottom of the hole up a little, and throw a 2x6 form around the hole. You want the mud to fill the hole and touch all of the non disturbed soil (bottom and sides). This is what stabilizes the peir footing. If you put tube down into the hole, there is soil around the tube that it hasn't filled against. Build the form to be easily knocked apart to get out. Fill it up with mud and set a post base or throw a pier block on. Using tube sucks. It's hard to brace up. Expensive. And no one will ever see your pretty tube. I definitely wouldn't bother vibrating an under house footing. For something that small, there is no real structural concern, and no one will ever see it. Most tubes I've set were full of engineered welded bar cages for structural support. The bar cages were 19" outside and the tube set were 24". If the piers were in front of the house and where you could see them, then I'd might use tube and the donkey dick. Vibrators are for removing big voids in stem walls or tubes when they are full of bar that is blocking the mud from settling around it. This is a structural problem. I've seen a ton of forms come off where the vibrator was used and ther was still some honeycomb left. Tapping the forms sometimes works just as good for removing small honeycomb pockets. My plan was to use the tube, then pour concrete on the outside of the tube as opposed to backfilling with dirt. Can I do that? I know I'm overdoing it. I can't help it. I have OCD. And I'll know I have a pretty tube under my house. In that case, why use a tube? |
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