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Quoted: I can't wait for your comparison with the blanks! I'm waiting for this before I make my order from Atlantic. View Quote |
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Quoted: Sorry I don’t have results yet. I got screwed with babysitting and a bunch of other crap on my rare weekend off. Stepdaughter pulled the pin on a live 3 year old and tossed him in our laps during the weekend before school starting. That and the rest of the fam ate my schedule. Then I got called in. I’ll get back on it soon. I’m still waiting and hoping for a longer tube to arrive too. View Quote |
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Royal Arms FBG-1 Flash Bang Grenade |
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they claim to be impact detonated
https://royalarms.com/product-category/flash-bang-training-grenade/ |
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they claim to be impact detonated https://royalarms.com/product-category/flash-bang-training-grenade/ View Quote The FP is floating on a spring. Impact to either end drives in into the primer. Inertia from the launch impulse would be similar to impact. |
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Impact on either end. The FP is floating on a spring. Impact to either end drives in into the primer. Inertia from the launch impulse would be similar to impact. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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they claim to be impact detonated https://royalarms.com/product-category/flash-bang-training-grenade/ The FP is floating on a spring. Impact to either end drives in into the primer. Inertia from the launch impulse would be similar to impact. ETA: While I’m loathe to drag it into this thread— an impact initiated “report” projectile could be made using a firing mechanism similar to the 60mm and 81mm mortar TRUMP rounds. The projectile would need to be stabilised and consistently land nose first though. You could also (legally~~ I think...) use a 109gr bursting/report charge. If the mechanism threaded onto a 16oz Coors light bottle filled with chalk, it might look pretty cool going off down range. I want to explore all the lower hanging soda tree fruits first though. Lots of stuff to flesh out before heading higher up the ladder. |
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It's cool, I'm not trying to push you, just expressing my excitement that you are doing SCIENCE! Do you have your testing procedure worked out? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Sorry I don’t have results yet. I got screwed with babysitting and a bunch of other crap on my rare weekend off. Stepdaughter pulled the pin on a live 3 year old and tossed him in our laps during the weekend before school starting. That and the rest of the fam ate my schedule. Then I got called in. I’ll get back on it soon. I’m still waiting and hoping for a longer tube to arrive too. I’ll try first without wadding, then when the cans likely splatter, I’ll pop in a cardboard wad and see what happens from there. Any hotter loads that work— I’ll measure the range vs. the 11” tube with M200 blanks for comparison. If I can get any cans to survive the M195 launch with cardboard wadding (lanyard fired at first ) then it’ll be time to move on and start my next project (mortar!) |
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I traded PSA PFG lowers with another member and got mine last night. It's a pretty awesome SN for a can cannon. https://i.imgur.com/J1ZsWgo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DLLl3hG.jpg I need to redo the painting and get some colors for the gremlin but I'm excited. Just need a place to go shoot it! View Quote |
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I traded PSA PFG lowers with another member and got mine last night. It's a pretty awesome SN for a can cannon. https://i.imgur.com/J1ZsWgo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DLLl3hG.jpg I need to redo the painting and get some colors for the gremlin but I'm excited. Just need a place to go shoot it! View Quote |
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I was sharing my launcher with a bud this evening at his house (went over to shoot binary), and had something weird happen.
He shot a can and it leaked going down range.... Hmmm... never leaked before. Maybe bad can. I shoot the next can and ‘wooosh’, it fails badly with spray everywhere.... WTH? Maybe some grit/crud in the bore scoring the cans? I fire another round and it just goes “ploop”, and the can falls to the ground about eight feet in front of me. I now loudly ask “WTH????” Thinking maybe the bore needs cleaned of something, and now wondering if I somehow also had a bad blank, I screw off the tube and find this: Attached File The pin that was welded in to block live ammo has blown out. I guess (totally just a guess) that the blank powder lost it’s burn by being vented too early? I dunno. Weird. I wouldn’t have thought that difference in length before venting would matter that much, but apparently it does. I’m also guessing the can that was shredded might have caught the bouncing pin that blew out on that shot. Just supposition though. Anywhoo, I had another upper, so I just screwed that one off and used the spare without sights. No harm, but I need my pin replaced, welded over, or whatever. Thinking it’s inop until then. Just passing on my experience. Details on that upper— until now it’s seen about 250-300 M200 blanks fired behind mostly 12 and 8 ounce cans, with a smattering of tennis balls thrown in. I haven’t shot the heavier blanks yet. If the other upper lets go at the pin, I’ll advise and update. |
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Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived. It works, sorta. Pretty disappointing though. It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy. I had to beat the snot out of it. I doubt it’s going to survive long.
Attached File I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge. It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already. I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one. I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of. |
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Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived. It works, sorta. Pretty disappointing though. It'll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy. I had to beat the snot out of it. I doubt it's going to survive long. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge. It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already. I just don't wanna spend a $100+ for a "real" one. I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of. View Quote Attached File |
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Wife's school uses something similar to cut letters out of paper. The have a lever operated hand press to apply pressure.
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/52BA4809-E37A-4E31-8842-6574E1F8F0EE-642711.JPG snip View Quote |
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Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel. |
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Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived. It works, sorta. Pretty disappointing though. It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy. I had to beat the snot out of it. I doubt it’s going to survive long. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge. It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already. I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one. I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of. View Quote |
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If you can find a piece of lumber that's bigger across the end-grain than the circle you're cutting, you may have better luck. Something like a piece off a green 4x4? Maybe a local lumberyard has some for bunks/stickers under material? At work when we have to cut lots of gaskets, and punch the holes out, we have a big piece of 12x12 beam that we use, so the hole-cutter goes into the wood easier and takes less beating to get the holes punched. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived. It works, sorta. Pretty disappointing though. It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy. I had to beat the snot out of it. I doubt it’s going to survive long. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge. It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already. I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one. I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of. |
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Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived. It works, sorta. Pretty disappointing though. It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy. I had to beat the snot out of it. I doubt it’s going to survive long. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge. It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already. I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one. I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of. |
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If you are going to make wads. I'd suggest using your punch to cut out polyurethane foam discs, and then sandwich two over one slightly smaller aluminum disc for rigidity.
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I was planning on fixing mine myself (haven't had time yet), but with your upper- that makes two. I emailed Jeff a link so he'll be aware of it happening. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel. Attached File |
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If you are going to make wads. I'd suggest using your punch to cut out polyurethane foam discs, and then sandwich two over one slightly smaller aluminum disc for rigidity. View Quote |
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Make that three, a friend of mine had his fall out on the first shot. Luckily he found it and will weld it back, himself. I might get him to put a better weld on mine, just in case. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198606/F400A04C-F6D2-4D6F-A141-A9E4E565E763-646174.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198606/F400A04C-F6D2-4D6F-A141-A9E4E565E763-646174.JPG |
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Just got an email from Jeff. He said to pass on:
Damn. There was a run of about 25 that the welder ground too much of the weld off. We've since fixed the issue. Let the forum know this and we'll replace any defects at our expense. Thanks for the heads up. View Quote |
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Just got an email from Jeff. He said to pass on: View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Pretty solid customer service. I don't expect perfection but I do expect good service if there's an issue. Sounds like they got it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Just got an email from Jeff. He said to pass on: Damn. There was a run of about 25 that the welder ground too much of the weld off. We've since fixed the issue. Let the forum know this and we'll replace any defects at our expense. Thanks for the heads up. I hate shipping stuff, so I’m going to weld mine myself. Jeff said they use a 1/8 x 1/2 roll pin. I might just use a nail in mine if I find one the right size in the garage. I’ll grind the tip down, slide it in, cut, weld and then grind. |
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Sounds like it would work good, but cutting aluminum discs seems kinda pretty involved? What would be the source of the foam to harvest? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If you are going to make wads. I'd suggest using your punch to cut out polyurethane foam discs, and then sandwich two over one slightly smaller aluminum disc for rigidity. The poly foam is usually found in packing supplies. I could probably get 1000ft^2 of it free if I talk to some friends. |
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Yeah, he’s been great with me. I didn’t get an answer to every email, but I sent a bunch about tech/design/test stuff and I’m sure he gets a lot of emails.lol I hate shipping stuff, so I’m going to weld mine myself. Jeff said they use a 1/8 x 1/2 roll pin. I might just use a nail in mine if I find one the right size in the garage. I’ll grind the tip down, slide it in, cut, weld and then grind. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Just got an email from Jeff. He said to pass on: Damn. There was a run of about 25 that the welder ground too much of the weld off. We've since fixed the issue. Let the forum know this and we'll replace any defects at our expense. Thanks for the heads up. I hate shipping stuff, so I’m going to weld mine myself. Jeff said they use a 1/8 x 1/2 roll pin. I might just use a nail in mine if I find one the right size in the garage. I’ll grind the tip down, slide it in, cut, weld and then grind. |
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Ok, so does anyone make a way to put tail fins on the soda can?
How about a more mortar-like projectile? How does the ATF classify this, but require a DD stamp for a mortar? |
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I was really surprised at his fast response to emails. I felt bad about taking his time, but I'm pretty sure if anything needs fixed, ever, I can handle it myself. I was about to make one of these from scratch, but for his prices, it wasn't worth my time to make it.
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Ok, so does anyone make a way to put tail fins on the soda can? How about a more mortar-like projectile? How does the ATF classify this, but require a DD stamp for a mortar? View Quote |
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Quoted: Give me a bit. I'll dig up some stuff. It might be better to use thin nylon plastic for the hard part of the discs. That should be easy enough to cut with a hole saw on a press. The poly foam is usually found in packing supplies. I could probably get 1000ft^2 of it free if I talk to some friends. View Quote |
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Like a thin poly cutting board from the dollar store. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Give me a bit. I'll dig up some stuff. It might be better to use thin nylon plastic for the hard part of the discs. That should be easy enough to cut with a hole saw on a press. The poly foam is usually found in packing supplies. I could probably get 1000ft^2 of it free if I talk to some friends. Glue the three together with LVT or FRP glue and you are set. |
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View Quote Fully micro adjustable. Only down side is the center hole. |
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Will a 2 1/2" hole saw work, or do you need the metric 67mm? I think a hole saw is measured OD, so the 1/16" or so of the blade is included, making the disc too small. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Yes, exactly. Glue the three together with LVT or FRP glue and you are set. I think a hole saw is measured OD, so the 1/16" or so of the blade is included, making the disc too small. I had also thought about connecting them through a center hole in the disc and then tying off 12" or so of kite string to the can tab for flight stabilization. |
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I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances.
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Just got an email from Jeff. He said to pass on: View Quote Attached File Here's what mine looks like, I've only fired mine once so far. Attached File |
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Jeff from F5 contacted me, excellent customer service is all I can say!
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I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances. View Quote |
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I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances. |
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I think it can be done with 5.56 blanks and 8oz steel cans with the aforementioned pressure wads. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances. Did find this cite: http://freeshopmanual.com/uploads/pdf/M-16-Grenade-Launcher.pdf An M16 rifle with an M195 grenade cartridge can launch an M31 HEAT rifle grenade 617 feet (188m/ 205.6yards). An M31 rifle grenade weighs 709 grams (about 25 ounces).... ETA: Attached File |
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Demo Ranch experiments with flaming tennis balls out of a can cannon. Also shows a thermite(?) stick they said was from F5 also.
Youtube link |
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Demo Ranch experiments with flaming tennis balls out of a can cannon. Also shows a thermite(?) stick they said was from F5 also. Youtube link View Quote |
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For shits and grins I tried using an empty 8oz can glued to a full one kinda like Skillets did. I cut fins in it and left them folded. I wanted to try loading it finned end down, and hoped the gas pressure would just open the fins when the can cleared the muzzle, while somehow miraculously leaving the empty can intact. It shredded the empty can though.lol Even though it was a failure, I figured it was still worth documenting it here for reference. I may try again with a steel can, and see if that holds up.
I tried getting video, but my daughter did something wrong and missed the shot.lol Anyhoo, the 8oz can did stay on the back of the full one, and the full 12oz can did stay oriented nose front for the whole flight from what I saw. I tried hot glue to adhere them, and it worked fine. I applied the glue to the empty can so it’d stay hot a little longer. I figured the full can would suck the heat out of the glue too fast. Attached File The empty can stayed on for the whole flight, and then popped off when the full 12oz can impacted the ground. Attached File ETA: It was fired with a regular M200 blank. |
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Just for clarification, I glued a full 8oz can to an empty 12, and then loaded the full can in first.
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