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Link Posted: 8/14/2018 9:46:30 PM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:

I can't wait for your comparison with the blanks! I'm waiting for this before I make my order from Atlantic.
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Sorry I don’t have results yet.  I got screwed with babysitting and a bunch of other crap on my rare weekend off.  Stepdaughter pulled the pin on a live 3 year old and tossed him in our laps during the weekend before school starting.  That and the rest of the fam ate my schedule.  Then I got called in.  I’ll get back on it soon.  I’m still waiting and hoping for a longer tube to arrive too.
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 8:51:00 AM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:

Sorry I don’t have results yet.  I got screwed with babysitting and a bunch of other crap on my rare weekend off.  Stepdaughter pulled the pin on a live 3 year old and tossed him in our laps during the weekend before school starting.  That and the rest of the fam ate my schedule.  Then I got called in.  I’ll get back on it soon.  I’m still waiting and hoping for a longer tube to arrive too.
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It's cool, I'm not trying to push you, just expressing my excitement that you are doing SCIENCE! Do you have your testing procedure worked out?
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 9:20:00 AM EDT
[#3]
How do we feel about the X-Product Grappling Hook for $85...?
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 11:15:55 AM EDT
[#4]
Royal Arms FBG-1 Flash Bang Grenade
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 11:33:24 AM EDT
[#5]
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I'd be concerned with the spring loaded firing pin detonating the primer upon launching.
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 4:44:56 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 4:56:24 PM EDT
[#7]
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Impact on either end.
The FP is floating on a spring.
Impact to either end drives in into the primer.
Inertia from the launch impulse would be similar to impact.
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 7:46:48 PM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:
Impact on either end.
The FP is floating on a spring.
Impact to either end drives in into the primer.
Inertia from the launch impulse would be similar to impact.
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Quoted:
Impact on either end.
The FP is floating on a spring.
Impact to either end drives in into the primer.
Inertia from the launch impulse would be similar to impact.
Yeah, to safe that (as it currently functions) until after launch you’d need a spring loaded bore rider pin or some other similar acting mechanism.

ETA:  While I’m loathe to drag it into this thread— an impact initiated “report” projectile could be made using a firing mechanism similar to the 60mm and 81mm mortar TRUMP rounds.  The projectile would need to be stabilised and consistently land nose first though.  You could also (legally~~ I think...) use a 109gr bursting/report charge.  If the mechanism threaded onto a 16oz Coors light bottle filled with chalk, it might look pretty cool going off down range.

I want to explore all the lower hanging soda tree fruits first though.  Lots of stuff to flesh out before heading higher up the ladder.
Link Posted: 8/15/2018 7:55:34 PM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:
It's cool, I'm not trying to push you, just expressing my excitement that you are doing SCIENCE! Do you have your testing procedure worked out?
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Quoted:
Quoted:

Sorry I don’t have results yet.  I got screwed with babysitting and a bunch of other crap on my rare weekend off.  Stepdaughter pulled the pin on a live 3 year old and tossed him in our laps during the weekend before school starting.  That and the rest of the fam ate my schedule.  Then I got called in.  I’ll get back on it soon.  I’m still waiting and hoping for a longer tube to arrive too.
It's cool, I'm not trying to push you, just expressing my excitement that you are doing SCIENCE! Do you have your testing procedure worked out?
Mostly.  I’ll likely just test the blanks at max range elevation setting, and just compare the 11” with either the 9”, or maybe a 13” tube if it shows up.

I’ll try first without wadding, then when the cans likely splatter, I’ll pop in a cardboard wad and see what happens from there.  Any hotter loads that work— I’ll measure the range vs. the 11” tube with M200 blanks for comparison.

If I can get any cans to survive the M195 launch with cardboard wadding (lanyard fired at first ) then it’ll be time to move on and start my next project (mortar!)
Link Posted: 8/16/2018 11:38:37 AM EDT
[#10]
I traded PSA PFG lowers with another member and got mine last night.

It's a pretty awesome SN for a can cannon.  




I need to redo the painting and get some colors for the gremlin but I'm excited.  Just need a place to go shoot it!
Link Posted: 8/16/2018 3:30:38 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
I traded PSA PFG lowers with another member and got mine last night.

It's a pretty awesome SN for a can cannon.  

https://i.imgur.com/J1ZsWgo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DLLl3hG.jpg

I need to redo the painting and get some colors for the gremlin but I'm excited.  Just need a place to go shoot it!
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You scored on that deal
Link Posted: 8/17/2018 12:18:30 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
I traded PSA PFG lowers with another member and got mine last night.

It's a pretty awesome SN for a can cannon.  

https://i.imgur.com/J1ZsWgo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DLLl3hG.jpg

I need to redo the painting and get some colors for the gremlin but I'm excited.  Just need a place to go shoot it!
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Poop O' 203.

Link Posted: 8/17/2018 12:44:09 AM EDT
[#13]
I was sharing my launcher with a bud this evening at his house (went over to shoot binary), and had something weird happen.

He shot a can and it leaked going down range....  Hmmm... never leaked before.  Maybe bad can.

I shoot the next can and ‘wooosh’, it fails badly with spray everywhere.... WTH?  Maybe some grit/crud in the bore scoring the cans?

I fire another round and it just goes “ploop”, and the can falls to the ground about eight feet in front of me.  I now loudly ask “WTH????”

Thinking maybe the bore needs cleaned of something, and now wondering if I somehow also had a bad blank, I screw off the tube and find this:

Attachment Attached File


The pin that was welded in to block live ammo has blown out.  I guess (totally just a guess) that the blank powder lost it’s burn by being vented too early?  I dunno.  Weird.  I wouldn’t have thought that difference in length before venting would matter that much, but apparently it does.  I’m also guessing the can that was shredded might have caught the bouncing pin that blew out on that shot.  Just supposition though.

Anywhoo, I had another upper, so I just screwed that one off and used the spare without sights.  No harm, but I need my pin replaced, welded over, or whatever.  Thinking it’s inop until then.  Just passing on my experience.

Details on that upper— until now it’s seen about 250-300 M200 blanks fired behind mostly 12 and 8 ounce cans, with a smattering of tennis balls thrown in.  I haven’t shot the heavier blanks yet.  If the other upper lets go at the pin, I’ll advise and update.
Link Posted: 8/18/2018 10:01:07 PM EDT
[#14]
Can we get them in 81mm? Asking for a friend.

Attachment Attached File


Do it  I dare you!
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 7:57:20 AM EDT
[#15]
Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived.  It works, sorta.  Pretty disappointing though.  It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy.  I had to beat the snot out of it.  I doubt it’s going to survive long.

Attachment Attached File


I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge.  It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already.  I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one.  I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of.
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 8:03:46 AM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:
Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived.  It works, sorta.  Pretty disappointing though.  It'll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy.  I had to beat the snot out of it.  I doubt it's going to survive long.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG

I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge.  It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already.  I just don't wanna spend a $100+ for a "real" one.  I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of.
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I wonder if something like this would work?
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 9:16:42 AM EDT
[#17]
Wife's school uses something similar to cut letters out of paper. The have a lever operated hand press to apply pressure.
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 6:58:07 PM EDT
[#18]
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Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel.
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 7:40:09 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel.
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Quoted:
Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel.
I was planning on fixing mine myself (haven’t had time yet), but with your upper- that makes two.  I emailed Jeff a link so he’ll be aware of it happening.
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 7:42:28 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived.  It works, sorta.  Pretty disappointing though.  It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy.  I had to beat the snot out of it.  I doubt it’s going to survive long.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG

I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge.  It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already.  I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one.  I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of.
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If you can find a piece of lumber that's bigger across the end-grain than the circle you're cutting, you may have better luck. Something like a piece off a green 4x4? Maybe a local lumberyard has some for bunks/stickers under material? At work when we have to cut lots of gaskets, and punch the holes out, we have a big piece of 12x12 beam that we use, so the hole-cutter goes into the wood easier and takes less beating to get the holes punched.
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 8:00:18 PM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
If you can find a piece of lumber that's bigger across the end-grain than the circle you're cutting, you may have better luck. Something like a piece off a green 4x4? Maybe a local lumberyard has some for bunks/stickers under material? At work when we have to cut lots of gaskets, and punch the holes out, we have a big piece of 12x12 beam that we use, so the hole-cutter goes into the wood easier and takes less beating to get the holes punched.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived.  It works, sorta.  Pretty disappointing though.  It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy.  I had to beat the snot out of it.  I doubt it’s going to survive long.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG

I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge.  It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already.  I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one.  I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of.
If you can find a piece of lumber that's bigger across the end-grain than the circle you're cutting, you may have better luck. Something like a piece off a green 4x4? Maybe a local lumberyard has some for bunks/stickers under material? At work when we have to cut lots of gaskets, and punch the holes out, we have a big piece of 12x12 beam that we use, so the hole-cutter goes into the wood easier and takes less beating to get the holes punched.
Good call, I hadn’t thought of that.
Link Posted: 8/19/2018 8:30:58 PM EDT
[#22]
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Quoted:
Good call, I hadn’t thought of that.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Well, my cheap ass hole punch arrived.  It works, sorta.  Pretty disappointing though.  It’ll only do one layer at a time and it cuts pretty crappy.  I had to beat the snot out of it.  I doubt it’s going to survive long.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/D46E0E00-E381-441F-AD43-E5EB9A016AA1-644746.JPG

I put one 2x4 under the carboard, placed a another piece of 2x4 over the punch and whacked it with a 3# hand sledge.  It cuts crappy, is slow, and I need a better punch I can tell already.  I just don’t wanna spend a $100+ for a “real” one.  I need a steel barrel stub to make a workable one out of.
If you can find a piece of lumber that's bigger across the end-grain than the circle you're cutting, you may have better luck. Something like a piece off a green 4x4? Maybe a local lumberyard has some for bunks/stickers under material? At work when we have to cut lots of gaskets, and punch the holes out, we have a big piece of 12x12 beam that we use, so the hole-cutter goes into the wood easier and takes less beating to get the holes punched.
Good call, I hadn’t thought of that.
I never had either, until a guy showed me. Always used plywood or the flat side of a board to use as a backer under my hole punch. Once I switched to the end-grain it helps and the punch doesnt have to work so hard.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 5:16:52 PM EDT
[#23]
If you are going to make wads. I'd suggest using your punch to cut out polyurethane foam discs, and then sandwich two over one slightly smaller aluminum disc for rigidity.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 6:10:46 PM EDT
[#24]
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I was planning on fixing mine myself (haven't had time yet), but with your upper- that makes two.  I emailed Jeff a link so he'll be aware of it happening.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel.
I was planning on fixing mine myself (haven't had time yet), but with your upper- that makes two.  I emailed Jeff a link so he'll be aware of it happening.
Make that three, a friend of mine had his fall out on the first shot. Luckily he found it and will weld it back, himself. I might get him to put a better weld on mine, just in case.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 6:38:40 PM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:
If you are going to make wads. I'd suggest using your punch to cut out polyurethane foam discs, and then sandwich two over one slightly smaller aluminum disc for rigidity.
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Sounds like it would work good, but cutting aluminum discs seems kinda pretty involved?  What would be the source of the foam to harvest?
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 6:39:53 PM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:
Make that three, a friend of mine had his fall out on the first shot. Luckily he found it and will weld it back, himself. I might get him to put a better weld on mine, just in case.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198606/F400A04C-F6D2-4D6F-A141-A9E4E565E763-646174.JPG
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Mine blew out after the second shot and that's on top of being sent the short barrel even though I requested the longer barrel.
I was planning on fixing mine myself (haven't had time yet), but with your upper- that makes two.  I emailed Jeff a link so he'll be aware of it happening.
Make that three, a friend of mine had his fall out on the first shot. Luckily he found it and will weld it back, himself. I might get him to put a better weld on mine, just in case.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198606/F400A04C-F6D2-4D6F-A141-A9E4E565E763-646174.JPG
Dang.  I emailed him twice before, but haven’t heard anything back.  I just sent him a third email with a link to your post.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 6:52:17 PM EDT
[#27]
Just got an email from Jeff.  He said to pass on:

Damn.  There was a run of about 25 that the welder ground too much of the weld off.  We've since fixed the issue.

Let the forum know this and we'll replace any defects at our expense.

Thanks for the heads up.
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Link Posted: 8/20/2018 7:48:11 PM EDT
[#28]
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Quoted:
Just got an email from Jeff.  He said to pass on:

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Quoted:
Just got an email from Jeff.  He said to pass on:

Damn.  There was a run of about 25 that the welder ground too much of the weld off.  We've since fixed the issue.

Let the forum know this and we'll replace any defects at our expense.

Thanks for the heads up.
Pretty solid customer service.  I don't expect perfection but I do expect good service if there's an issue.  Sounds like they got it.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 8:33:14 PM EDT
[#29]
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Quoted:
Pretty solid customer service.  I don't expect perfection but I do expect good service if there's an issue.  Sounds like they got it.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Just got an email from Jeff.  He said to pass on:

Damn.  There was a run of about 25 that the welder ground too much of the weld off.  We've since fixed the issue.

Let the forum know this and we'll replace any defects at our expense.

Thanks for the heads up.
Pretty solid customer service.  I don't expect perfection but I do expect good service if there's an issue.  Sounds like they got it.
Yeah, he’s been great with me.  I didn’t get an answer to every email, but I sent a bunch about tech/design/test stuff and I’m sure he gets a lot of emails.lol

I hate shipping stuff, so I’m going to weld mine myself.  Jeff said they use a 1/8 x 1/2 roll pin.  I might just use a nail in mine if I find one the right size in the garage.  I’ll grind the tip down, slide it in, cut, weld and then grind.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 8:41:02 PM EDT
[#30]
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Sounds like it would work good, but cutting aluminum discs seems kinda pretty involved?  What would be the source of the foam to harvest?
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Quoted:
If you are going to make wads. I'd suggest using your punch to cut out polyurethane foam discs, and then sandwich two over one slightly smaller aluminum disc for rigidity.
Sounds like it would work good, but cutting aluminum discs seems kinda pretty involved?  What would be the source of the foam to harvest?
Give me a bit. I'll dig up some stuff. It might be better to use thin nylon plastic for the hard part of the discs. That should be easy enough to cut with a hole saw on a press.

The poly foam is usually found in packing supplies. I could probably get 1000ft^2 of it free if I talk to some friends.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 8:58:55 PM EDT
[#31]
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Yeah, he’s been great with me.  I didn’t get an answer to every email, but I sent a bunch about tech/design/test stuff and I’m sure he gets a lot of emails.lol

I hate shipping stuff, so I’m going to weld mine myself.  Jeff said they use a 1/8 x 1/2 roll pin.  I might just use a nail in mine if I find one the right size in the garage.  I’ll grind the tip down, slide it in, cut, weld and then grind.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just got an email from Jeff.  He said to pass on:

Damn.  There was a run of about 25 that the welder ground too much of the weld off.  We've since fixed the issue.

Let the forum know this and we'll replace any defects at our expense.

Thanks for the heads up.
Pretty solid customer service.  I don't expect perfection but I do expect good service if there's an issue.  Sounds like they got it.
Yeah, he’s been great with me.  I didn’t get an answer to every email, but I sent a bunch about tech/design/test stuff and I’m sure he gets a lot of emails.lol

I hate shipping stuff, so I’m going to weld mine myself.  Jeff said they use a 1/8 x 1/2 roll pin.  I might just use a nail in mine if I find one the right size in the garage.  I’ll grind the tip down, slide it in, cut, weld and then grind.
I already fixed mine, I had to tap in a 3/32 roll pin, I think it should hold just fine now.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 9:27:11 PM EDT
[#32]
Ok, so does anyone make a way to put tail fins on the soda can?

How about a more mortar-like projectile? How does the ATF classify this, but require a DD stamp for a mortar?
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 9:39:03 PM EDT
[#33]
I was really surprised at his fast response to emails.  I felt bad about taking his time, but I'm pretty sure if anything needs fixed, ever, I can handle it myself.  I was about to make one of these from scratch, but for his prices, it wasn't worth my time to make it.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 11:21:43 PM EDT
[#34]
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Ok, so does anyone make a way to put tail fins on the soda can?

How about a more mortar-like projectile? How does the ATF classify this, but require a DD stamp for a mortar?
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There's actually quite a bit of discussion of that stuff in the thread. I don't mean that to be condescending, but the whole thing is worth the read.
Link Posted: 8/20/2018 11:46:57 PM EDT
[#35]
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Give me a bit. I'll dig up some stuff. It might be better to use thin nylon plastic for the hard part of the discs. That should be easy enough to cut with a hole saw on a press.

The poly foam is usually found in packing supplies. I could probably get 1000ft^2 of it free if I talk to some friends.
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Like a thin poly cutting board from the dollar store.
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 1:43:11 AM EDT
[#36]
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Quoted:
Like a thin poly cutting board from the dollar store.
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Quoted:

Give me a bit. I'll dig up some stuff. It might be better to use thin nylon plastic for the hard part of the discs. That should be easy enough to cut with a hole saw on a press.

The poly foam is usually found in packing supplies. I could probably get 1000ft^2 of it free if I talk to some friends.
Like a thin poly cutting board from the dollar store.
Yes, exactly.

Glue the three together with LVT or FRP glue and you are set.
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 10:02:27 AM EDT
[#37]
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Quoted:

Yes, exactly.

Glue the three together with LVT or FRP glue and you are set.
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Will a 2 1/2" hole saw work, or do you need the metric 67mm?
I think a hole saw is measured OD, so the 1/16" or so of the blade is included, making the disc too small.
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 2:27:45 PM EDT
[#38]
Circle cutter for drill presses

These things are knuckle busters, so watch your fingers!
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 3:44:14 PM EDT
[#39]
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Quoted:
Circle cutter for drill presses

These things are knuckle busters, so watch your fingers!
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I posted one of those earlier in the thread.  
Fully micro adjustable.
Only down side is the center hole.
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 3:50:37 PM EDT
[#40]
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Quoted:
Will a 2 1/2" hole saw work, or do you need the metric 67mm?
I think a hole saw is measured OD, so the 1/16" or so of the blade is included, making the disc too small.
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Quoted:

Yes, exactly.

Glue the three together with LVT or FRP glue and you are set.
Will a 2 1/2" hole saw work, or do you need the metric 67mm?
I think a hole saw is measured OD, so the 1/16" or so of the blade is included, making the disc too small.
I think the rigid disc being slightly smaller is optimal. It would work like a piston and rings. The hard disc distributes force evenly on the rim of the can, and the side foam works to stop gas from blowing by and to reduce friction as it moves down the bore.

I had also thought about connecting them through a center hole in the disc and then tying off 12" or so of kite string to the can tab for flight stabilization.
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 3:51:37 PM EDT
[#41]
I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances.
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 6:02:14 PM EDT
[#42]
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Just got an email from Jeff.  He said to pass on:
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My friend from work fixed his...
Attachment Attached File


Here's what mine looks like, I've only fired mine once so far.
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 6:10:02 PM EDT
[#43]
Jeff from F5 contacted me, excellent customer service is all I can say!
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 6:16:19 PM EDT
[#44]
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I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances.
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M82
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 6:21:47 PM EDT
[#45]
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M82
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I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances.
M82
I think it can be done with 5.56 blanks and 8oz steel cans with the aforementioned pressure wads.
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 9:21:14 PM EDT
[#46]
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I think it can be done with 5.56 blanks and 8oz steel cans with the aforementioned pressure wads.
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I think the goal for me here is to find a can/blank combo that can repeatedly make it 300 yards or so. Mimicking M203 distances.
M82
I think it can be done with 5.56 blanks and 8oz steel cans with the aforementioned pressure wads.
I agree.  We know the proper amount of energy is available.  An M195 grenade cartridge can launch a 1 pound rifle grenade 300m (I believe- still searching for a direct manual reference—- I know for a fact the bullet trap versions go that far).  It does that spigot style on the end of the barrel.  With a launch tube there should be a better way to capture that energy.

Did find this cite: http://freeshopmanual.com/uploads/pdf/M-16-Grenade-Launcher.pdf

An M16 rifle with an M195 grenade cartridge can launch an M31 HEAT rifle grenade 617 feet (188m/ 205.6yards).    An M31 rifle grenade weighs 709 grams (about 25 ounces)....

ETA:

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/21/2018 10:32:46 PM EDT
[#47]
Demo Ranch experiments with flaming tennis balls out of a can cannon.  Also shows a thermite(?) stick they said was from F5 also.
Youtube link
Link Posted: 8/22/2018 2:04:55 AM EDT
[#48]
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Quoted:
Demo Ranch experiments with flaming tennis balls out of a can cannon.  Also shows a thermite(?) stick they said was from F5 also.
Youtube link
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His launcher is an “Xproducts” branded one (though I presume made by F5?).  The mini thermal lance is a “BreachPen” brand.  I think Xproducts just sells them.  I don’t know who actually makes the BreachPens.  “BreachPen” themselves, or someone else for them?  Here is their website: https://breachpen.com
Link Posted: 8/22/2018 2:20:41 AM EDT
[#49]
For shits and grins I tried using an empty 8oz can glued to a full one kinda like Skillets did.  I cut fins in it and left them folded.  I wanted to try loading it finned end down, and hoped the gas pressure would just open the fins when the can cleared the muzzle, while somehow miraculously leaving the empty can intact.  It shredded the empty can though.lol  Even though it was a failure, I figured it was still worth documenting it here for reference.  I may try again with a steel can, and see if that holds up.

I tried getting video, but my daughter did something wrong and missed the shot.lol

Anyhoo, the 8oz can did stay on the back of the full one, and the full 12oz can did stay oriented nose front for the whole flight from what I saw.

I tried hot glue to adhere them, and it worked fine.  I applied the glue to the empty can so it’d stay hot a little longer.  I figured the full can would suck the heat out of the glue too fast.
Attachment Attached File


The empty can stayed on for the whole flight, and then popped off when the full 12oz can impacted the ground.
Attachment Attached File


ETA: It was fired with a regular M200 blank.
Link Posted: 8/22/2018 12:00:06 PM EDT
[#50]
Just for clarification, I glued a full 8oz can to an empty 12, and then loaded the full can in first.
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